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K2, Broad Peak and Karakoram Trekking and Climbing News

k2, broad peak news
 
Blog Posts: Please click one of the links below to go directly to that blog post or just scroll down.

22 July - K2 NEWSFLASH: ALL MEMBERS + SHERPAS ON TOP, NOW TRYING TO GET DOWN. AS ED VIESTURS SAYS: "WHEN YOU'RE ON TOP YOU'RE ONLY HALF WAY"

21 July -

  • K2 SUMMITCLIMB NEWS JUST IN: ALL OF OUR TEAM MEMBERS AND SHERPAS ARE ON THE SUMMIT AT THIS MOMENT!!

  • RADIO CALL JUST RECEIVED FROM K2 SUMMIT. ALL MEMBERS + ALL SHERPAS NOW ON TOP. PLS WISH THEM GODSPEED + SAFETY ON THE WAY DOWN!

  • BROAD PEAK NEWS: OUR TEAM OF 4 MEMBERS AND 3 SHERPAS CLIMBED ALL NIGHT THROUGH KNEE DEEP SNOW. WE MADE IT BASE OF SUMMIT PYRAMID 1PM

  • K2 NEWS! SUMMITCLIMB'S JANGBU NOW 2OOM/660FT BELOW SUMMIT. HE IS FIXING ROPE WITH 2 OTHER SHERPAS. JAKE + TOMAZ WILL SUMMIT TODAY?!

19 July -

k2, camp 2

Photo web

  • OUR WHOLE TEAM IS HEADING TO THE SUMMIT OF BROAD PEAK NOW: 3 SHERPAS AND 4 MEMBERS. 1TS 6PM. WE HEARD A GOOD FORECAST. WISH US LUCK

  • CAMP 3 7000M/23,000FT. BREATHTAKING 5-STAR PANORAMIC VIEWS: FROM K2 TO CONDORDIA TO BRIDE PK. A LIFETIME HONOUR TO SEE SUCH A SITE

18 July -

  • SUMMITCLIMB K2 TEAM NOW IN CAMP 3. IT WAS A VERY LONG DAY. BAD WEATHER. HOPE TOMORROWS TRIP TO C4 WILL GO SMOOTH. K2 SUMMIT FRIDAY

  • BROAD PEAK MEMBERS AND SHERPAS ARE IN C3. IT WAS WARM AND BEAUTIFUL TODAY WITH SOME SNOW AND CLOUD. WE PLAN SUMMIT 2MOROW NITE!

k2 news, View from Concordia Motel-Dmitri photo   k2 news, View from Concordia Motel-Dmitri photo

Photo web

17 July - WE JUST ARRIVED IN CAMP 2 ON OUR TRIP TO THE SUMMIT. A FIERCE LITTLE SNOW AND WIND BLIZZARD JUST BLEW IN SIMULTANEOUSLY WITH OUR ARRIVAL...

16 July - WE ARE IN CAMP 1, MOVING UP ON OUR ATTEMPT TO REACH THE SUMMIT. IT IS QUITE WARM UP HERE, A LOT OF SNOW HAS MELTED

Missing - www.KarakoramNews.com

  • Rick Allen disappeared at 8000m/26,000ft on his way down from the summit of broad peak, the world's 13th highest mountain. He was reported dead by his team mates who took his sat phone and descended.
  • At 8am Japanese basecamp cook ferman saw a backpack laying on snow at 7500m/24,000ft. Ferman went to polish camp to look telescope. Ruckack is alive and moving!
  • Polish climber Bartek Bargiel has special high altitude drone. Bartek uses drone to video Rick Allen climbing to dangerous ice-cliff
  • Three Basecamp army liaison officers radio Camp 3, and Fred, David, Tenji, Jake, Bond, Dmitri, and Dan Mazur bring Rick Allen Camp 3 safe
  • After 3 days SummitClimb team return Rick Allen to Basecamp. Rick can walk and talk, but has freeze injuries and facial bleeding cuts, from falling off summit rock cliff and hitting head


14 July - Big meeting k2 bc. Organizing sherpas, rope fixing, oxygen, tents. Looks like k2 summit day will be 20 july!

k2, camp 2

Photo web

13 July - Early morning wakeup in basecamp. Beautiful sunrise over k2. Important all group rope fixing meeting today

k2, camp 2

Photo web

12 July - ALL TEAM IN BASECAMP. EVERYONE WELL. WEATHER PERFECT.

11 July - WE R IN BROAD PK C3. ALL WEL. JAKE TRIED SUMMIT. DEEP SNOW. CLIMBER FROM DIFFERENT TEAM GOT LOST. FRED, DAVID, + TENJI RESCUED HIM

9 July -

  • KARAKORAM EXCITEMENT: K2 TEAM TOMAS AND PASANG IN C2, GOING C3. BROAD PEAK TEAM: JAKE + DORJE C3, GOING FOR SUMMIT!

  • 5:30 AM HERE IN CAMP 2. NO CLOUD, NO WIND, BLUE SKY K2, PASTORE PEAK, CONCORDIA, ALL BATHED IN SUNSHINE. WE ARE GOING TO CAMP 3.

 

k2, camp 2

Photo web

8July - IN CAMP 2. PHENOMENAL WEATHER. STARING INTO WEST FACE OF K2. BREATHTAKING! EVERYONE FEELING WELL HERE AT 618OM/20,400FT. 2MOROW C3?

k2, camp 2
Photo web

7 July - PERFECT SUNNY DAY. WE SPLIT INTO 2 GROUPS. (A) JAKE, SAORI, LAKPA=SLEEP C2. (B) BOND, DMITRI, DAN, TENJI, DORJE=SLEEP C1 ACCLIMATE

6 July -

  • AT THE MOMENT WE ARE ALL FINE IN CAMP 1. ITS 2:30PM AND SUNNY. A RATHER LARGE SNOW AVALANCHE JUST ROARED PAST. WE'RE OK, ON THE RIDGE

  • BROAD PEAK TEAM EATING BIG BREAKFAST. WE RECEIVED A GOOD WEATHER FORECAST. NOW HEADING TO CAMP 1. WE PLAN TO SLEEP UP THERE TONIGHT

k2 news,looking up at broad peak  k2 news,just about to arrive in camp 1

Looking up at Broad Peak. The red line denotes (very roughly) the route from the base to Camp 1 on the ridge line. Whilst it looks like we get quite high – the perspective is worryingly false. There is another 2450m of ascent from Camp 1 to the summit!, The rest of the team just about to arrive in Camp 1 on Broad Peak. I’ve circled our basecamp on the glacier below. 650m and about 4km away. Photo Jake

5 July -

  • MIXED SUN, SNOW BLIZZARD, STRONG WIND, A FEW WARM SPELLS. TOMAZ + SHERPAS CLIMB TO K2 - C1. BROAD PK SHERPAS SETUP TENTS AT BP-C1.
  • BC ICE TOWERS: PERFECT TEAM ROPE TRAINING. OUR MEMBER MS SAORI MATSUSHITA OF ALPINE GUIDE JAPAN SHARES ASCENT - DESCENT TECHNIQUE.

4 July -

k2 news, View from Concordia Motel-Dmitri photo   k2 news, View from Concordia Motel-Dmitri photo

Our first (up close) view of the summit of K2 from our BC. Our camp amidst the glacier, with Broad Peak behind us. The summit is actually the furthest right hand Peak. On the far left is the start of the Abruzzi ridge on K2.

  • K2 / BROAD PK BC AT 4950M / 16,500FT. WARM LIGHT SNOW. HOT SHOWER, LAUNDRY. DELICIOUS FRESH FOOD. WE WATCHED "VERTICAL LIMIT" ON JAKE'S IPAD
  • OUR DOCTOR FROM SLOVENIA, TOMAZ ROTAR, ASCENDS TO K2 CAMP 1 IN PERFECT WEATHER, AFTER WAITING 3 DAYS FOR THE SNOW TO SETTLE SAFELY

k2 news, glaceir to the base camp

Making our way through the glacier to the base of the Broad Peak route (with K2 in the background), as the day starts to break. We’d soon turn off our head torches

 

3 July -

k2 news, View from Concordia Motel-Dmitri photo   k2 news, View from Concordia Motel-Dmitri photo

Photo Web

  • AFTER 6 HOURS OF STEEP SNOW CLIMBING, WE ARE IN CAMP 1 AT 5650M / 18,500FT. AMAZING SUNNY CLEAR VIEWS OF K2, CONCORDIA, BROAD PEAK

  • 230 AM. WEATHER GOOD. STARRY SKIES. NO WIND. WE ARE PACKING UP, PREPARING TO HEAD FOR CAMP 1, AFTER A HEARTY BREAKFAST OF COURSE!

k2 news, Jake on the ascent to Camp 1 on 45-50 degree slopes. Headphones in – listening to a talking book!   k2 news, View from Concordia Motel-Dmitri photo

Jake on the ascent to Camp 1 on 45-50 degree slopes. Headphones in – listening to a talking book!. Jake and Ang Pasang at the Puja Ceremony, with rice powder on our faces, and our special scarves around our necks. Photo Jake

2 July  -

  • BC ICE TOWERS: PERFECT TEAM ROPE TRAINING. OUR MEMBER MS SAORI MATSUSHITA OF ALPINE GUIDE JAPAN SHARES ASCENT - DESCENT TECHNIQUE.
  • SHERPA PRAYER CEREMONY IN BC. OUR 6 SHERPAS BEGIN EXPEDITION WITH COLORFUL BLESSINGS TO K2, BROAD PK, AND ALL OUR CLIMBING GEAR.


k2 news, glacier rope practice  Our Puja Ceremony, blessing the expedition, and our equipment before we start our climbing

Sauori practicing her rope work in the glacier.  Our Puja Ceremony, blessing the expedition, and our equipment before we start our climbing. Photo Jake

k2 news, View from Concordia Motel-Dmitri photo   k2 news, View from Concordia Motel-Dmitri photo

Masherbrum (K1) with our camp in the foreground clear or red tarps are the Porters bivvies. Porters on the glacier having just left Urdukas Camp. Photo Jake


1 July
- SUNNY BROAD PK K2 GORGEOUS. CHECK GEAR, THEN BOND LEADS EXPLORATION BC ICE PINNACLES. NATIONAL OUTDOOR LEADERSHIP SCHOOL GRADUATE!

k2 news, k2, broad peak, gas

photo web

30 June - DELICIOUS FRESH FRUIT + VEGGIES ARRIVE BC. JAKE AND THE SHERPAS ERECT THE MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR 4 METRE DOME. WONDERFULLY COMFORTABLE.


29 June
- HEAVY SNOW IN BASECAMP. ORGANISING CAMP, BUILDING KITCHEN, TOILET, AND HOT SHOWER. OUR K2, CONCORDIA TREK TEAM DESCEND. WE MISS U!

k2 news, trek to concordia

photo web

28 June - TODAY WE LEFT CONCORDIA BEHIND. WALKED TO K2/BROAD PK BASECAMP. SNOW FALLING ALL DAY. TRAIL HARD TO FOLLOW. SHERPAS ARE AMAZING !

k2 news, View from Concordia Motel-Dmitri photo

Photo web

27 June - PORTERS ARE IN NEED OF GOOD USED OUTDOOR CLOTHES, JACKETS, BOOTS, CLIMBING EQUIP. PLEASE EMAIL: INFO@MOUNTEVERESTFOUNDATION.ORG

k2 news, View from Concordia Motel-Dmitri photo   k2 news, View from Concordia Motel-Dmitri photo

Porters crossing the ice cold glacial river on the way to Khobutse. The Trango Group including the famous Trango Tower. Photo Jake

26 June - ARRIVED WORLD FAMOUS CONCORDIA 4500M / 15,000 FT. SNOW AT 1ST, THEN CLOUDS PARTED TO REVEAL K2, BROAD PEAK, GASHERBRUMS. BEST VIEWS

25 June -

  • AFTER TASTY LUNCH, HERE AT GORAY 2, WE CAN SEE STUNNING 360 VIEWS OF MASHERBRUM, MITRE, G4, MUSTAG TOWER, CATHEDRAL, TRANGO, URDUKAS
  • GENTLE WALK ALONG ROLLING FLAT ROCK GLACIER SPROUTING OCCASIONAL 15M / 50 FT HIGH ICE SENTINELS TO GORAY 2 CAMP AT 4300M / 14,100 FT


24 June - SUNNY TREK ACROSS MASSIVE BALTORO GLACIER TO URDUKAS, 4016M / 13,200FT. BREATHTAKING VIEWS OF TRANGO, & MIGHTY ULI BIAHO

k2 news, View from Concordia Motel-Dmitri photo   k2 news, View from Concordia Motel-Dmitri photo

Paiju Camp 3400m. The terminal morraine of the Baltoro Glacier is visible as the great grey/brown blob further up the valley floor. The porters portioning out the meat from the freshly slaughtered Zoa (cow) Photo by Juke


23 June - GOLDEN AFTERNOON SUNSET PEEKING THROUGH GAUZY CLOUDS OVER JUTTING TRANGO TOWERS. VIEWED ACROSS VAST BALTORO GLACIER, BEST MT VIEW.

k2 news, View from Concordia Motel-Dmitri photo   k2 news, View from Concordia Motel-Dmitri photo

GOLDEN AFTERNOON SUNSET PEEKING THROUGH GAUZY CLOUDS OVER JUTTING TRANGO TOWERS. VIEWED ACROSS VAST BALTORO GLACIER, BEST MT VIEW. Photo web

 

22 June  -  BENEATH BRIGHT MOON HIGHLIGHTS ON TRANGO TOWER, A CAMPFIRE BLAZES, AND 107 PORTERS SING, PLAY DRUMS, AND DANCE INTO THE LATE NIGHT

21 June -

  • BEAUTIFUL RIVERSIDE WALK TO PAIJU CAMP AT 3480 M / 11,415 FT. WE SEE TRANGO TOWERS IN ALL THEIR GLORY. AMAZING FRIENDLY PEOPLE.

  • TREK JULA BRIDGE CAMPSITE 3200M / 11,000FT. BASE OF BAKURDAS AMAZING UNCLIMBED PEAK. GORGEOUS MOONLIT STARRY SKY. BRIEF RAINSTORM.

 

k2 news, View from Concordia Motel-Dmitri photo   k2 news, View from Concordia Motel-Dmitri photo

BEAUTIFUL RIVERSIDE WALK TO PAIJU CAMP AT 3480 M / 11,415 FT. WE SEE TRANGO TOWERS IN ALL THEIR GLORY. AMAZING FRIENDLY PEOPLE. Photo by Jake

k2 news, View from Concordia Motel-Dmitri photo   k2 news, View from Concordia Motel-Dmitri photo

TREK JULA BRIDGE CAMPSITE 3200M / 11,000FT. BASE OF BAKURDAS AMAZING UNCLIMBED PEAK. GORGEOUS MOONLIT STARRY SKY. BRIEF RAINSTORM.. Photo by Jake

20 June -
  • K2 TREK 1ST DAY. 12 MEMBER, 6 SHERPA, 117 PORTER, 25 DONKEY. 6 HR WALK BY RIVER. DRY SAND, ROCK. SCENIC LUNCH. FIND GARNET GEMSTONE

  • ASKOLE VILLAGE. K2 TREK BEGINS NOW. 3000 MTR / 10,000 FT. AMAZING TINY VILLAGE. OUR TEAM DOCS ARE SUPPLYING ALL MEDICINE TO CLINIC

k2 news, View from Concordia Motel-Dmitri photo   k2 news, View from Concordia Motel-Dmitri photo

k2 news, View from Concordia Motel-Dmitri photo    k2 news, Skardu-Dmitri photo

View from Concordia Motel-Dmitri photo.  Skardu-Dmitri photo.

k2 news, Pakistani music by the camp fire-Dmitri photo    k2 news, Lunch at Concordia Motel Skardu-Dmitri photo

Pakistani music by the camp fire-Dmitri photo.  Lunch at Concordia Motel Skardu-Dmitri photo.

19 June -

  • LUNCH AT DASSU IN MULBERRIES BELOW PEAKS. SCARY BRALDU GORGE. HOT SPRINGS SWIM. VISIT MUSEUM. ASKOLE VILLAGE TEA W/LOCALS
  • A.M. DEPARTURE CEREMONY. 11 JEEPS DRIVE. VISIT 1000 YEAR OLD SHEGAR TIBETAN MOSQUE. SINGING PRAYER CEREMONY AT K2 RIUER.

18 June - SHOPPING AND PACKING IN SKARDU. DOING PAPERWORK. GETTING TRAVEL PERMITS. EXCITED FOR DEPARTURE TOMORROW!

17 June -

FLY OVER NANGA PARBAT TO SKARDU NEAR K2. NICE RIVERSIDE HOTEL. GOOD FOOD. CAR TOUR ANCIENT BUDDHA. CAMP FIRE W/MUSICIANS.

Today we were up early and helped Steve to catch his flight home. We miss you Steve! Then we went had a yummy breakfast at the guesthouse, and drove to the airport, where we boarded a plane to Skardu for an amazing flight past mighty Mount Nanga Parbat. Lets go and climb it! We reached Skardu, at 2228m / 7307 ft, the nearest town to K2, and went for a delicious lunch at this very gorgeous hotel we are staying at, on the banks of the massive Indus River. The views of the surrounding peaks from our hotel are incredible. Oh, sorry, we forgot to mention that yesterday our Sherpas boarded an Islamabad bus with 45 bags of luggage in what was supposed to be a 40 hour journey to Skardu. However, because it is the Eid Holiday here (Happy Eid everyone!!) there were no cars on the road and they whisked up here in just 30 hours, which even included an 8 hour sleep at a hotel enroute!! The weather here in Skardu is pleasant. A few stray clouds in mostly blue skies, with lots of peaks jutting out all round us. There is no wind and the temperature a very springlike 21 degrees C, 70 degrees F. Now a group of members are off to see the sights and tonight we have planned a cultural celebration with our lovely and kind hosts, who have been bending over backward to give us excellent spotlessly clean rooms with fine views, hot showers, and amazing buffet meals. Its going to be tough to leave here!!

k2 news, Deb and John at Concordia Motel Skardu, above Indus River.    k2 news, SummitClimb Sherpa Team boarding cargo bus to Skardu with 45 duffle bags.

Deb and John at Concordia Motel Skardu, above Indus River.  SummitClimb Sherpa Team boarding cargo bus to Skardu with 45 duffle bags.

k2 news, Faisal Mosque Islamabad. Jake Photo    k2 news, Kids on the rooftop. Islamabad. Bond Photo

Faisal Mosque Islamabad. Jake Photo .Kids on the rooftop. Islamabad. Bond Photo .

k2 news, Saori and Jangbu at the airport boarding the Skardu flight.   k2 news, Ring Traders Islamabad. Jake Photo

Saori and Jangbu at the airport boarding the Skardu flight. Ring Traders Islamabad. Jake Photo 

k2 news, Ice Cream in Islamabad. By Saori   k2 news, Missing You Steve!

Ice Cream in Islamabad. By Saori. Missing You Steve! 


16 June
- Greetings from the green city of Islamabad. During the last days our members have been arriving. Finally they are all here. We have been enjoying meeting one another, and sharing climbing and trekking stories. We have had some fun evenings out sampling local restaurants. We have even had a bit of sightseeing, visiting the local mosque, and enjoyed a western meal at a shopping mall. The people here are amazingly friendly. Steve twisted his knee while walking around town and two taxi drivers whisked our entire group over to the casualty ER ward at the local hospital, which was extremely clean and tidy and staffed by top professionals. We have enjoyed our time in Islamabad, at our very comfortable guesthouse. Surprisingly, it rained last night, cooling things off nicely.

15 June - Our team is arriving in Islamabad. Warm evenings and hot days.

k2 news   k2 news

Watches for sale in Raja Bazaar. Money sellers in Rawalpindi.

14 June - Our members are arriving in sunny Islamabad. Expedition Leader Dan Mazur and 6 Nepali Sherpas are already here. We have been shopping for our expedition supplies. This a beautiful and colorful busy city. People are very friendly, the hotel is comfortable and the food is delicious!!

 
k2 news  k2 news 

Decorated Suzuki passenger van in Raja Bazaar, Rawalpindi.  Jangbu Sherpa in Raja Bazaar

k2 news  k2 news 

Street traffic in Rawalpindi. Metro bus in Islamabad


 
Team Roster:

K2 Climb
 
  • Dan Mazur (Leader), UK/USA
  • Tomaz R., Slovenia
  • Jake M, British

Broad Peak 2018

  • Dan Mazur (Leader), UK/USA
  • Dmitri N., USA / Russia
  • David G., Australia
  • Huaibang Z, USA / China
  • Saori M., Japan

K2 Trek

  • Terry O. USA
  • David H. USA
  • Deb H. USA
  • Thomas G. Germany
  • John C. USA

K2 Broad Peak training climb

  • Steve W. USA

Climbing Sherpa Team:

  • Jangbu Sherpa (18 summits of Everest)
  • Ang Pasang Sherpa (7 summits of Everest)
  • Galje Sherpa (5 summits of Everest)
  • Tenji Sherpa (14 summits of Everest)
  • Lakpa Tendu Sherpa (11 summits of Everest)
  • Ang Dorjee Sherpa (6 summits of Everest) Back to top
 
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  • How to join a team?