Lhotse Expedition – Nepal

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Lhotse Expedition – Nepal

  • Dates:  6 April to 4 June 2021.
  • Spring Full Service Cost: $16,150, £12,850, €14,150; Basic Climb: $9,150, £7,250, €8,050. (Price fixed in $USD. £GBP and €EUR price for convenience only, converted January 3, 2020)
  • Now offering Everest/Lhotse combination climb; two 8000m peaks in one expedition $47,600

More Information

  • Climb the world's 4th highest peak by the same route as Mount Everest, but at a much lower cost.
  • Climbing Mount Lhotse is the best possible preparation for climbing Mount Everest.
  • Experienced leaders: Dan Mazur and Don Wargowsky from UK and USA have lead 3 successful Lhotse summits and 12 Everest summits. They are friendly, good teachers, and well organized.
  • Climb Everest and Lhotse together; two 8000m peaks in one trip. Call for details.

Recent News: Please click here to view news of our expedition. We only have a few places left in the team for next season. Please conact us now to book: info@summitclimb.com .

Lhotse Expedition – Nepal

Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world at 8551 meters (27,923 feet), and is unique in that it is climbed from virtually the same route as Mount Everest.The route to camp 4 is the same as that of Tenzing and Hillary's first ascent route of Everest in 1953, and the dates we have chosen feature the best weather of the year. Join our team on one of the most beautiful and iconic climbs anywhere in the world!

 

Mount Lhotse Nepal Climbing Expedition Cost

Our full-service expedition includes:

What is not included?

  • International flights to/from Kathmandu
  • Mountain climbing rescue and travel insurance
  • Personal climbing equipment and clothing
  • Extra Oxygen (available on request)
  • Gratuities for staff
  • Nepalese visa

Our basic climb includes:

  • All permit fees and liaison officer
  • 5 bottle set of oxygen, mask, hoses, and regulator (More oxygen available on request)
  • Basecamp meals; basecamp sleeping tent, basecamp dining tent, and tables and chairs
  • Transport to base camp to/from Kathmandu, for you and personal equipment only (boots, ice axe, clothing, sleeping bag), including accommodation and meals on the road
  • A walkie-talkie radio
  • Emergency equipment and supplies
  • Access to team fixed ropes and camps (sites, not tents)
  • Airport transfers
  • Two nights stay in a Kathmandu hotel on arrival and two nights prior to departure in a double room. Private rooms are available for a small additional fee.
  • Other services and may be purchased and hired at minimal expense

Add on High Attitude Support : Click here for prices

  • Private Sherpa (personal guide/porter) – Carries up to 10 kg (22bs) of your personal equipment, climbs with you, melts water, cooks, and will be with you every step of the way.
  • Personal equipment carriage service – Sherpa carry up to 10kg (22lbs) of personal equipment up and down the mountain between camps
Mount Lhotse Nepal Climbing Expedition Itinerary
1) Arrive in Kathmandu, 1300 meters (4,265 feet). Stay at hotel.
2) Orientation meeting and chance to buy last minute supplies, visit temples, and tour the city. Stay at hotel.
3) Fly to Lukla, 2860 meters (9,385 feet). Walk to Phakding 2650 meters (8,695 feet). Teahouse or camping
4) Walk to Namche Bazaar, 3450 meters (11,320 feet). Teahouse or camping
5) Rest day with acclimatization hike in Namche. Teahouse or camping
6) Walk to Pangboche, 3750 meters (12,300 feet). Participate in a Buddhist Puja blessing ceremony with the local Lama at the monastery if you wish. Teahouse or camping
7) Walk to Pheriche, 4250 meters (13,945 feet). Visit the Himalayan Rescue Association health clinic. Teahouse or camping
8) Walk to Dugla, 4600 meters (15,090 feet). Teahouse or camping
9) Walk to Lobuche, 4900 meters (16,075 feet). Teahouse of camping
10) Walk to GorakShep, 5150 meters (16,900 feet). Teahouse or camping
11) Walk to basecamp, 5340 meters (17,400 feet). Camping
12) Rest, organization, and training day in basecamp
13) Rest, organization, and training day in basecamp
14) Walk to Pumori basecamp, 5300 meters (17,390 feet). Sleep there.
15) Walk to Pumori ABC, 5700 meters (18,700 feet). Return to Everest basecamp.
16) Rest in basecamp.
17) Acclimatization trek to the top of Kala Patthar, 5644 meters (18,520’). Return to basecamp
18) Rest in basecamp.
19) Climb to camp 1 at 6100 meters (20,010 feet). Sleep at camp 1.
20) Climb to camp 2 at 6400 meters (21,000 feet). Return to camp 1, sleep there.
21) Return to basecamp,
22) Rest in basecamp.
23) Rest in basecamp.
24) Climb to camp 1. Sleep there.
25) Climb to camp 2. Sleep there.
26) Rest in camp 2.
27) Climb to camp 3, 7300 meters (23,950 feet). Return to camp 2, sleep there.
28) Return to basecamp.
29) Rest in basecamp.
30) Rest in basecamp.
31) Climb to camp 1, sleep there.
32) Climb to camp 2. Sleep there.
33) Rest in camp 2.
34) Climb to camp 3. Sleep there.
35) Descend to camp 1 or camp 2. Sleep there.
36) Return to basecamp.
37) Rest in basecamp or descend to a lower village such as GorakShep.
38) Return to basecamp from lower village. Rest in basecamp.
39) Climb to camp 1, sleep there.
40) Climb to camp 2, sleep there.
41) Climb to camp 3, sleep there.
42) Climbto camp 4, 8000 meters (26,245 feet). Sleep there.
43) Attempt summit.
44) Return to camp 2, sleep there.
45) Return to basecamp.
46) Rest in basecamp.
47) Climb to camp 2, sleep there.
48) Climb to camp 3, sleep there.
49) Climb to camp 4, sleep there.
50) Attempt summit.
51) Return to camp 2.
52) Return to basecamp.
53) Pack up basecamp.
54) Trek down to Pheriche. Teahouse or camping.
55) Trek down toPangboche. Teahouse or camping.
56) Trek to Namche. Teahouse or camping.
57) Trek to Lukla. Teahouse or camping.
58) Flight to Kathmandu. Stay at hotel.
59) Extra day in Kathmandu, in case of delay, and for sightseeing, gift shopping. Hotel.
60) Fly Home. Thanks for joining our expedition!
Mount Lhotse Expedition Climb Leadership & Staff

Leadership: Dan Mazur and Don Wargowsky  are relaxed, friendly, well organized, and highly skilled professional with over 30 years combined experience leading people to the summits of mountains such as Everest, Lhotse, K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Manaslu, Shishapangma, AmaDablam, and Baruntse

Sherpas: We employ some of Nepal, Tibet, and the Karakorum’s best local mountaineers and Sherpas to assist team members in realizing their summit goals. Our friendly and loyal high altitude climbing staff has supported teams to the summits of more than ten of the highest peaks in the Himalaya.

Mount Lhotse Climb Personal & Team Equipment

Climbing:

  • Climbing harness
  • 5 meters (16 ft.) of 6mm accessory cord
  • Figure 8 abseil/belay device (tube style devices, i.e. ATC will not work on fixed lines)
  • Full size ascender (i.e. PetzlAscention)
  • 2 locking carabiners, 1 large and 1 small
  • 4 non-locking carabiners
  • Ice axe with leash
  • Steel crampons with anti-balling plates
  • Trekking poles
  • Abseiling/Rappelling Gloves

Upper Body:

  • 2 cotton t-shirts
  • 2 synthetic t-shirts
  • 2 long sleeve synthetic shirts
  • Light-weight soft shell jacket
  • Medium weight insulatingjacket (fleece, down, or synthetic)
  • Hard shell jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable (Gore-Tex or similar)
  • Heavy down coat
     
    • For 6,000m peaks a very warm down coat with hood or an 8,000m coat with hood
    • For 7,000m peaks an 8,000m coat with hood
    • For 8,000m peaks an 8,000m down coat with hood or an 8,000m suit can be used instead

Hands:

  • Lightweight poly-liner gloves
  • Mid-weight soft shell gloves – water/wind resistant
  • Heavy- weight waterproof gloves – Gore-tex shell with removable liner
  • Expedition weight mittens -Gore-tex over mitt matched polar fleece mitt liner

Head:

  • Helmet
  • Warm hat that covers your ears
  • Balaclava
  • Face mask
  • Baseball hat or brimmed sun hat
  • Glacier sunglasses with side shields
  • Ski goggles with light and dark lenses
  • Headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs
  • Buff/neck gaiter
  • Bandana or head scarf (optional)

Lower Body:

  • Synthetic underwear
  • Hiking shorts
  • Hiking pants
  • 2 pair lightweight thermal bottoms
  • Medium or expedition weight thermal bottoms
  • Polar fleece or soft shell pants
  • Waterproof/breathable pants with full side zips (Gore-Tex or similar)
  • Heavy insulating pants
     
    • For 6,000m peaks: Down or synthetic pants will full zips
    • For 7,000m peaks: 8,000m down pants
    • For 8,000m peaks: 8,000m down pants or a 8,000m suit can be used instead

Feet:

  • Boots
     
    • For 6,000m peaks: Plastic or composite double boots (Koflach, La SportivaSpantik, etc) Modern waterproof, single boots designed for 4-5,000m peaks may be suitable if they can be worn with 2 pairs of socks and vapor barrier lines and/or they are equipped with overboots
    • For 7,000m: Plastic or composite double boots (Koflach, La SportivaSpantik, etc)
    • For 8,000m peaks: 8,000m boots - One-Sport Millet Everest boots or equivalent
       
  • Sturdy leather walking boots
  • Trainers, running shoes and/or sandals
  • Down booties (optional)
  • 3 pair med-heavy poly or wool socks
  • 2 pair poly or wool liner socks (optional)
  • Vapor barrier liner socks (optional)
  • 2 pair lightweight trekking socks
  • Cotton socks for in town

Sleeping:

  • Down sleeping bag
     
    • For 6,000m peaks: -18C or 0F
    • For 7,000m peaks:-23C or -10F (If you sleep cold consider -29C or -20F)
    • For 8,000m peaks: -29C or -20F (If you sleep cold consider -40C or -40F)
       
  • An additional down sleeping bag for basecamp for the following climbs: Everest, Lhotse, AmaDablam, Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I and II, Spantik, K2/Broad Peak Everest training climb. For Mastagata a second sleeping bag is optional, but highly recommended.
     
    • Down base camp sleeping bag should be rated to -10C or 15F (If you sleep cold consider -18C or 0F)
       
  • 2 closed cell foam kari-mats (sleeping pads) for use in basecamp and high altitude (these can be purchased inexpensively in Kathmandu)
  • High quality inflatable sleeping pad designed for cold weather (Thermarest)
  • Patch kit for inflatable pad

Rucksack and Travel Bags:

  • Medium rucksack/backpack (50-70 litres / 3000-4500 cubic inches, can be used as carry-on bag)
  • Waterproof rucksack cover (optional)
  • 2 large (120+ L / 7500+ cubic inch) duffle kit bags for clothing and equipment
  • Small luggage locks for duffel kit bags

Personal Hygiene:

  • Female or male hygiene supplies
  • 2 tubes lip sun cream
  • Large tube skin sun cream (min factor 30)
  • Anti-mosquito cream
  • Toothpaste/brush
  • Hand sanitizer gel (small-medium bottle)
  • Bar of soap small towel
  • Hand wipes
  • Face Mask
  • Hand sanitiser
  • Disposable gloves
  • Disinfectant wipes

Medical:

  • Small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, first-aid tape, plasters (band-aids), personal medications, etc.
  • Blister repair kit
  • 10 anti-diarrhea pills
  • 20 anti-headache pills
  • 10 cough and/or cold medicine
  • Anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox, Acetylzolamide (optional)
  • 10 Stomach antibiotics: Ciprofloxacin, etc.
  • 5 Azithomycine tables
  • Steri pen or bottle of water purification tablets
  • Cough sweets/lozenges (Halls/Stepils)
  • Earplugs
  • Extra prescription glasses/contact lenses and supplies

Personal Food:

  • Snack food/daily energy food
     
    • Everest training Nepal/Tibet, AmaDablam, Baruntse: 2-4kg (4.5-9lbs)
    • Spantik, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Mustagata, Manasu: 2-5kg (4.5-11lbs)
    • Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I/II, K2/Everest training, Everest, Lhotse: 3-6kg (6.5-13lbs)
       
  • Dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for summit attempt
     
    • Everest training Nepal/Tibet, AmaDablam: 2 meals
    • Spantik, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Mustagata, Manasu, Baruntse: 3 meals
    • Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I/II, K2/Everest training, Everest, Lhotse: 5 meals
Practical:
 
  • Small roll of repair tape
  • Sewing repair kit
  • Cigarette lighter
  • Small box matches
  • Compass or GPS
  • Battery powered alarm clock/watch
  • Camera with extra cards and extra batteries
  • Nylon stuff sacks for food and gear storage
  • 2 water bottles (1 litre) wide-mouth Nalgene
  • Pee bottle (1litre or larger)
  • Plastic cup and spoon
  • Small folding knife
  • Binoculars (optional)
  • 4 large, waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks
  • Passport, 2 extra passport photos, flight ticket, flight itinerary
  • Separate photocopies of passport and relevant visa pages, proof of insurance
  • Dollars, pounds, or euros cash
  • Bank/ATM/Cash and credit cards
  • Bathing suit/swim suit (you never know)
  • Paperback books, playing cards, ipod/mp3 player, musical instruments, extra batteries, etc.
  • Travel clothes for basecamp and in town
  • Umbrella (optional)
  • Small solar panels for personal electronics (optional)


Group Equipment:

We provide group gear, equipment, and supplies including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection, tents; stoves, fuel, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. A personal tent will be provided for each member at base camp. On the upper mountain, team members will share tents. In base camp, a shower, toilet, solar charger, and a dining tent will be provided.

Mount Lhotse Expedition Climb Your Experience and Training
Prior winter snow walking, climbing, camping, and experience at altitude is recommended. The trip includes climbing training. We will teach you everything you need to know on glaciers near basecamp. Team members should be fit and in good health. Please see our questions section for fitness training advice.
CLIMBING APPLICATION FORMS

Please fill out an application and return it to us with your refundable ten-percent deposit to hold your place on the team.

In addition to your application, we will need the following at least two months before the trip begins:  

  • Completed Payment
  • Oxygen order (if any)
  • Sherpa order (if any)
  • Trip Registration form
  • 1 Passport sized photo
  • A scan of your passport identification pages
  • Complete flight itinerary
  • Proof of travel, accident, and repatriation insurance. We strongly recommend Global Rescue, with at least $50,000 worth of helicopter rescue insurance.
  • Trip cancellation/interruption insurance is recommended

Please contact us with any questions you may have.

Here is what Arnold from the Netherlands says.

  • "It’s a full service expedition with everything taken care of. Or you can go in simple style with the basic climb.
  • It’s follows alongside the famous Hillary first ascent route.
  • It’s a less expensive way to get up close to Everest, as the Lhotse route and Everest route are identical up to the high camp.
  • Our leaders are very team focused, dedicated and hard working, with attention to the member needs and detail of organising.
  • Our teams are focused on letting each member go at his/her own pace with support from our leaders and sherpas.
  • We have excellent staff and Sherpas.
  • Our equipment is strong and plentiful.
  • The trek in is lush and beautiful.
  • We have excellent medical kits, gamow bag, emergency oxygen and experience.
  • The basecamp food is excellent with plenty of hot drinks.
  • The Khumbu icefall is always changing and crossing all of those ladders over crevasses is challenging..
  • The route is warmer up to high camp. Then its very windy.
  • Our teams are focused on letting each member go at his/her own pace with support from our leaders and sherpas."
Here is what Roger from Berkshire, UK has to say: "Thank you for all of your efforts. I hugely enjoyed the trip and the company and of course the summit."

Here is what Herman, the first Dutchman to summit Lhotse has to say: "It's incredible to be the first Dutchman to summit Mount Lhotse.

Going through the couloir was demanding and very interesting. It seemed endless until the the last few metres when I reached the top, and then it was amazing. I felt breathless up there. The view was spectacular and the weather was perfect.

You use a lot of energy to reach the summit, but the real enjoyment comes when you think about it later. It was an amazing feeling to look all around at panoramic view of the Himalaya. Summiting Lhotse is a great feeling that no one can ever take away from me. It will be with me all of my life."

Here is what Josette from Arolla, Switzerland has to say: "The style of the organization and the ambiance inside the group were good. I liked the determination of the members and to be in a smaller group was nice. The leader was perfect, giving us lots of liberty and confidence. He always waited for the latest one on the mountain and climbed with them."