Ojos del Salado

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Ojos del Salado

Ojos del Salado is an active stratovolcano in the Andes on the Argentina–Chile border and the highest active volcano in the world at 6,893 m (22,615 ft).


It is also the second highest mountain in both the Western Hemisphere and the Southern Hemisphere behind Aconcagua at approximately 7,000 meters (23,000 ft) and it is the highest in Chile.


Ojos del Salado could be translated as "Eyes of the Salty One", which describes it as being very snowy in the winter and salty with many lakes.


More Information

Date: Feb 13 to Feb 26, 2021


Full Service Cost; $3,850 , £2,850, €3,250;

Ojos del Salado Overview
This expedition gives a great opportunity to climb high with little technical difficulty apart from the summit rock tower, which is 30m of v.diff climbing with a fixed rope in place, and a gradual acclimatization programme which gives everyone a good opportunity of reaching the summit. The main issues are cold and wind, altitude and sometimes difficult terrain (ice and snow) but there are few objective dangers. It is a very long day and the final section to the top involves a scramble on rock where there are some ropes and chains to assist. This volcano is far less busy than Aconcagua and the dramatic landscape of desert, lagunas and ice capped volcanoes make for a special expedition.
Ojos del Salado Cost

Included in Price 

  • Leader
  • Assistant mountain guides (client per guide ratio = 2/3);
  • Transport from/to airport;
  • 2 nights in a 3 star hotel in Copiapo – the rooms are shared by each two expedition members
  • 4×4 transport from/to Copiapo
  • Usage of lodge at Laguna Santa Rosa;
  • Usage of tents, dining tents, kitchen and kitchen utensils;
  • Cook and staff at basecamp and approach camp;
  • Usage of medical kit;
  • All meals outside Copiapo;
  • All climbing permits.
  • * I know you normally don't include hotels. However Copiapo is small and there are not many hotel options. Also because we have to pack and prepare the card loads, we have to have all members in one place

What is not included in the price

  • Flights from/to Copiapo;
  • Personal climbing equipment;
  • International travel insurance;
  • Lunch and dinner in Copiapo;
  • Reimbursement for loss or damaged personal equipment;
Ojos del Salado Itinerary

Day 1 – Arrival to Copiapo – 800m - We’ll pick you up at the airport, 50km away from Copiapo. In the same day, we will check your personal equipment, making all final adjustments and shopping if necessary. Today we’ll have our first dinner together and meet the rest of the team. Included: transport and hotel


Day 2 – Copiapo – Laguna Santa Rosa Hut – 3700m - After a 210km drive, we’ll sleep in a small mountain hut at the edge of a beautiful salty lagoon called Santa Rosa. Included: Breakfast, transport, lunch, and dinner


Day 3 – Acclimatization on SieteHermanos – 4780m - We’ll climb SieteHermanos up to its summit or go as high as we can depending on the team’s condition. This is a fairly ‘low’ 4780m peak near Laguna Santa Rosa. Included: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner


Day 4 – Laguna Santa Rosa Hut – Laguna Verde Hut – 4300m - After a nice and generous breakfast, we’ll drive 120km to Laguna Verde. We’ll cook and gather in a small mountain hut and sleep in tents. The good news is that inside the hut there is a rather large pool of warm water which comes from nearby hot springs. Included: Breakfast, lunch, dinner (and bath!)


Day 5 – Climb to MulasMuertas – 5200m - Another day of acclimatisation. Today is our turn climb MulasMuertas located just a few kilometers away from our hut. Again, we’ll take it very easy and go as high as we can without compromising our bodies. Included: Breakfast, lunch, dinner (and bath again!)


Day 6 – Rest day – 4300m Today we’ll rest on Laguna Verde.


Day 7 – Climbing Nevado San Francisco – 6023m After a very early breakfast, we’ll put our plastic boots and packs on and then drive to 5000 metres to start the climb to Nevado San Francisco via the north ridge. The drive takes about 30 minutes and the climb might take us 5 to 7 hours. Would be great if you can try you best to get to the top as this will really push your confidence and acclimatisation. After summiting, our 4WD vehicles will be waiting for us at the bottom, then take us back to the hut. Included: Breakfast, packed lunch, transport, and dinner


Day 8 – Rest day – 4400m - Today will rest at Laguna Verde and recover from yesterday’s climb. Included: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner


Day 9 – Drive to Atacama Hut – 5200m - A 2-hour drive to a higher hut named Atacama. Only this time its a 5200 metre high hut and the roads can be quite bad. Today you get to relax (or try to) and enjoy the lunar landscape to Atacama Hut while our skillful drivers do what they do best. Included: Breakfast, lunch, dinner and offroad insane transport


Day 10 – Atacama Hut – Tejos Hut – 5800m - This is when we finally put large backpacks on and stop driving! After an early lunch, we’ll walk for 3 to 5 hours to a 5800 metre metal hut named Tejos. Included: Breakfast and lunch


Day 11 – First summit attempt – 6898m - After a 3am start, we expect a 7 to 9-hour push to the summit. The climb starts with straightforward switchbacks then changes to a huge traverse at 6500m. We then reach the main crater and work our way to the summit over a final steep gully and a technical 10-metre rock section to the main summit. Included: chance of summiting the largest volcano on Earth!


Day 12 – Second summit attempt - In case weather was bad yesterday


Day 13 – Drive back to Copiapo - Included: transport and hotel


Day 14 – Flight out - ** The above itinerary is subject to change due weather conditions, performance of the group, political/administrative problems and any other events not described.

Ojos del Salado Leadership
Ojos del Salado Equipment

Climbing:

  • Ice axe with leash
  • Steel crampons with anti-balling plates
  • Trekking poles

Upper Body:

  • 2 cotton t-shirts
  • 2 synthetic t-shirts
  • 2 long sleeve synthetic shirts
  • Light-weight soft shell jacket
  • Medium weight insulating jacket (fleece, down, or synthetic)
  • Hard shell jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable (Gore-Tex or similar)
  • Heavy down coat – must be large thick down jacket with hood

Hands:

  • Lightweight poly-liner gloves
  • Mid-weight soft shell gloves – water/wind resistant
  • Heavy- weight waterproof gloves – Gore-tex shell with removable liner
  • Expedition weight mittens -Gore-tex over mitt matched polar fleece mitt liner

Head:

  • Helmet
  • Warm hat that covers your ears
  • Balaclava
  • Face mask
  • Baseball hat or brimmed sun hat
  • Glacier sunglasses with side shields
  • Ski goggles with light and dark lenses
  • Headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs
  • Buff/neck gaiter
  • Bandana or head scarf (optional)

Lower Body:

  • Synthetic underwear
  • Hiking pants
  • 2 pair lightweight thermal bottoms
  • Polar fleece or soft shell pants
  • Waterproof/breathable pants with full side zips (Gore-Tex or similar)

Feet:

  • Boots – a paid of double or double plastic boots such as Koflach Exped, Koflach vertical, Asolo Ottomilia, Asolo AFS, Trezetta, Scarpa Vega, Scarpa Inferno, La Sportiva Baruntse, Olympus Mons, La Sportiva Spantik, Scarpa Phantom, La Sportiva G2. Single layer boots such as La Sportiva Nepal XT, EVO, Batura or Boreal Latok are NOT suitable.
  • Sturdy leather walking boots
  • Sandals or crocs
  • Down booties (optional)
  • 3 pair med-heavy poly or wool socks
  • 2 pair poly or wool liner socks (optional)
  • Vapor barrier liner socks (optional)
  • 4 pair lightweight trekking socks
  • Cotton socks for in town

Sleeping:

  • Down sleeping bag; -20C or -4F down sleeping bag (Comfort temperature)
  • 2 closed cell foam kari-mats (sleeping pads) for use in basecamp and high altitude (these can be purchased inexpensively in Mendoza)

Rucksack and Travel Bags:

  • Medium rucksack/backpack (50-70 litres / 3000-4500 cubic inches, can be used as carry-on bag)
  • Waterproof rucksack cover (optional)
  • 1 large (120+ L / 7500+ cubic inch) duffle kit bags for clothing and equipment
  • Small luggage locks for duffel kit bags

Personal Hygiene:

  • Female or male hygiene supplies
  • 2 tubes lip sun cream
  • Large tube skin sun cream (min factor 30)
  • Anti-mosquito cream
  • Toothpaste/brush
  • Hand sanitizer gel (small-medium bottle)
  • Bar of soap small towel
  • Hand wipes
  • Face Mask
  • Hand sanitiser
  • Disposable gloves
  • Disinfectant wipes

Medical:

  • Small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, first-aid tape, plasters (band-aids), personal medications, etc.
  • Blister repair kit
  • 10 anti-diarrhea pills
  • 20 Ibuprofen
  • 10 cough and/or cold medicine
  • Steri pen or bottle of water purification tablets
  • Cough sweets/lozenges (Halls/Stepils)
  • Earplugs
  • Extra prescription glasses/contact lenses and supplies

Personal Food:

  • Snack food/daily energy food: 1 kg / 2 pounds is a good amount (you may buy these in Mendoza)
  • 4 dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for the high camp.
Practical:
  • Small roll of repair tape
  • Sewing repair kit
  • Cigarette lighter
  • Battery powered alarm clock/watch
  • Camera with extra cards and extra batteries
  • Nylon stuff sacks for food and gear storage
  • 3 water bottles (1 litre) wide-mouth Nalgene
  • Pee bottle (1litre or larger)
  • Passport, flight ticket, flight itinerary
  • Separate photocopies of passport and relevant visa pages, proof of insurance
  • Dollars, pounds, or euros cash ($1800 in case you need a rescue and are not with Global Rescue)
  • Bank/ATM/Cash and credit cards
  • Paperback books, playing cards, ipod/mp3 player, musical instruments, extra batteries, etc.
  • Travel clothes for basecamp and in town
  • Small solar panels for personal electronics (optional) We already bring large solar chargers. Please avoid bringing AC chargers, please keep it DC(Car plug adapters or similar)

Group Equipment: We provide group gear, equipment, and supplies including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection, tents; stoves, fuel, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. A personal tent will be provided for each member at base camp. On the upper mountain, team members will share tents. In base camp, a shower, toilet, solar charger, and a dining tent will be provided.

Ojos del Salado Experience and Training
For the Normal Route it is not necessary for you to have previous climbing experience. We will teach you all of the mountain skills you need to know during the trip. You should be a fit and active walker in good health able to carry (to the high camp, but not the summit) a rucksack containing your sleeping bag, clothing, food and water.
Ojos del Salado Application

Please fill out an application and return it to us with your refundable ten-percent deposit to hold your place on the team.

In addition to your application, we will need the following at least two months before the trip begins:  

  • Completed Payment
  • Oxygen order (if any)
  • Sherpa order (if any)
  • Trip Registration form
  • 1 Passport sized photo
  • A scan of your passport identification pages
  • Complete flight itinerary
  • Proof of travel, accident, and repatriation insurance. We strongly recommend Global Rescue, with at least $50,000 worth of helicopter rescue insurance.
  • Trip cancellation/interruption insurance is recommended

Please contact us with any questions you may have.