Baruntse Climb Expedition – Nepal

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Baruntse Climb Expedition – Nepal

  • Date: Baruntse and Mera peak climb: 1 October to 31 October, 2020 & 2021 (31 days in Nepal)
  • Full Service Cost: $9,150 £7,250 €8,050. (Baruntse and Mera Peak) (Price fixed in $USD. £GBP and €EUR price for convenience only, converted January 3, 2020)
  • Date: Baruntse only climb (for more advanced climbers): 5 October to 31 October 2020 & 2021 (27 days in Nepal)
  • Full Service cost: $8,150 £6,450 €7,150 (Baruntse only) (Price fixed in $USD. £GBP and €EUR price for convenience only, converted January 3, 2020)

More Information

  • Grand Circle Himalayan Traverse in the Everest Region. 3 peaks for the price of one in just 34 days.
  • Leader: Dan Mazur 5 Baruntse Ascents, 7 Mera Peak Ascents and leader of 12 successful Everest expeditions - experienced and friendly.

Recent News: Please Click here to view news of our expedition. We only have a few places left in the team for next season. Please conact us now to book: info@summitclimb.com

Baruntse Expedition - Nepal Overview

At 7,129 metres (23,390 feet), Baruntse lies in the heart of the Himalayan giants of Nepal and has a higher summit success rate than comparable peaks. Our expedition offers an opportunity to climb this classic 7,000 metre peak, located in a more remote area of the Khumbu region in Nepal in a relatively short amount of time. The summit affords some of the best views of EverestLhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu that can be seen anywhere in the Himalaya.

Our Baruntse / Mera trip gives members the opportunity to warm up on Mera Peak, 6,476 metres (21,247 feet). Mera Peak is a classic, easier, Nepali peak. It is an excellent training ground for the more challenging Baruntse. Both trips (Mera/ Baruntse and Baruntse only) cross the incredibly beautiful Amphu Labtsa Pass, 5,845 metres (19,177 feet). This stunning pass is one of the most impressive passes in the Himalayas and is one of the highlights of the expedition.

 

Mera Peak and Mount Baruntse www.BaruntseClimb.com Video by Nick H

 

Baruntse Climbing Expedition Cost

Our full-service expedition includes:

What is not included?

  • International flights to/from Kathmandu
  • Mountain climbing rescue and travel insurance
  • Personal climbing equipment and clothing
  • Gratuities for staff
  • Nepalese visa

Add on High Attitude Support : Click here for prices

  • Private Sherpa (personal guide/porter) – Carries up to 10 kg (22bs) of your personal equipment, climbs with you, melts water, cooks, and will be with you every step of the way.
  • Personal equipment carriage service – Sherpa carry up to 10kg (22lbs) of personal equipment up and down the mountain between camps
Baruntse Climbing Expedition Detailed Itinerary and Schedule

Baruntse/Mera Peak climb – the Grand Circle Himalayan Traverse

1) Arrive Kathmandu 1,300 metres (4,265 feet). Stay at hotel.
2) Orientation day, equipment checking, gear shopping and sightseeing in Kathmandu. Stay at hotel.
3) Drive to Salleri town, 2,360 metres (7,740 feet). Large village in the foothills of Everest. Stay at hotel.
4) Drive to Bung village, 1,800 metres (5,904 feet). Entry to Makalu Barun National Park Headquarters. Stay at hotel.
5) Walk to Khiraule, 2,460 metres (8,069 feet). Visit Chambaling Monastery. Sleep in Teahouse or Camp.
6) Walk to Cholemkharka, 3,580 metres (11,742 feet). Beautiful hill farming and yak pastures. Sleep in Teahouse or Camp.
7) Rest day in Cholemkharka, acclimatization hike nearly to 4,000 metres (13,120 feet). Sleep in Teahouse or Camp.
8) Walk to Khola Kharka, 4250 metres (14,000 feet), passing through famous Panch Pokhari (5 Lakes) mountain range. Sleep in Teahouse or Camp.
9) Walk to Kothey, 3,500 metres (11,483 feet), beautiful mountain village surrounded by forest. Sleep in Teahouse.
10) Walk to Tagnag, 4,300 metres (14,108 feet), stunning scenery on the east side of Mera Peak. Sleep in Teahouse.
11) Walk to Khare at 5,000 metres (16,404 feet). High Alpine Village at the starting point for Mera La crossing. Sleep in Teahouse.
12) Rest day at Khare, check equipment, fixed rope training, acclimatization, explore the surrounding area. Sleep in Teahouse.
13) Climb to Mera Peak High Camp, 5,768 metres (18,924 feet). amazing views of Everest and all Himalaya. Camp.
14) Summit Mera Peak, 6,476 metres (21,246 feet), descend to Kongma Dingma in the beautiful remote Hongu Valley, 4,850 metres (15,908 feet). Camp.
15) Very Short Trek to Setho Pokhari, 5,003 metres (16,414 feet). The beautiful Hongu Valley Trek passes massive peaks such as mighty Mt. Chamlang. Camp.
16) Walk to Baruntse basecamp, 5,380 metres (17,646 feet). Basecamp is in a large bowl at the base of the mountain itself.
17) Rest & Acclimatization, Sherpa prayer ceremony (puja).
18) Glacier and fixed rope training on small ice walls near basecamp.
19) Climb to camp 1 on the West Col, 6,126 metres (20,100 feet) using fixed ropes. Stunning views of Baruntse climbing route and massive Mt. Makalu.
20) Very short climb to camp 2 at 6,350 metres (20,828 feet). Camp 2 lies at the base of the Baruntse Ridge.
21) Summit attempt using fixed ropes, 7,129 metres (23,390 feet).
22) Extra day for summit attempt, return to basecamp.
23) Return to basecamp, rest, pack up.
24) Hike through the scenic Panch Pokhari (5 Lakes) valley to base of Amphu Labtsa pass, 5450 metres (17,876 feet). Camp.
25) Cross Amphu Labtsa pass, 5,845 metres (19,177 feet) to Chukkung village, 4,750 metres (15,584 feet). A very beautiful day of climbing and trekking to Khumbu/Everest valley, passing Island Peak. Sleep in teahouse.
26) Walk to Pangboche village 3,985 metres (13,070 feet). Famous Everest base camp trekking route with many lodges and restaurants and beautiful scenery of Mt. Ama Dablam. Sleep in teahouse.
27) Walk to Namche Bazaar, 3,450 metres (11,319 feet). This big village is the capital of the Sherpa people. Teahouse.
28) Walk to Lukla, 2,860 metres (9,383 feet). Village containing the famous airport used for flights between Everest region and Kathmandu. Sleep in teahouse.
29) Flight to Kathmandu. Stay at hotel.
30) Extra day in Kathmandu, in case of delay, and for sightseeing, gift shopping, celebration, saying goodbye to new friends. Stay at hotel.
31) Fly home.


Baruntse Only

1) Arrive Kathmandu, 1,300 meters (4,265 feet). Stay at hotel
2) Orientation day, equipment checking, gear shopping and sightseeing in Kathmandu. Stay at hotel.

3) Fly to Lukla 2,860 metres (9,383 feet) Trek to Phakding, 2,650 metres (8,694 feet). Stay at tea house.
4) Walk to Namche Bazaar. 3,450 metres (11,319 feet). This big village is the capital of the Sherpa people. Teahouse.
5) Rest, acclimate, and relax in Namche Bazaar. Sightseeing walk to Everest View Hotel. Teahouse.
6) Trek to Pangboche, 3,985 metres (13,074 feet). Famous Everest base camp trekking route with many lodges and restaurants and beautiful scenery of Mt. Ama Dablam. Teahouse.
7) Easy short walk to Dingboche, 4,410 metres (14,469 feet). Beautiful views of Ama Dablam, Island Peak. Teahouse.
8) Easy short walk to the village of Chukhung, 4,750 metre (15,584 feet). Beautiful views of Ama Dablam and Lhotse south face.
9) Walk to Amphu Labtsa High Camp, at the base of the majestic Amphu Labtsa pass. Pass by Island Peak Lake (Imja Tso). Camp at 5,213 metres (17,103 feet).
10) Rest and acclimatization in Amphu Labtsa High Camp.
11) Cross the beautiful; Amphu Labtsa Pass, 5,845 metres (19,177 feet) descend to Panch Pokhari and camp near the lake. Amazing scenery, 5,274 metres (17,303 feet).
12) Walk to Baruntse basecamp, 5,380 metres (17,646 feet). Basecamp is in a large bowl at the base of the mountain itself.
13) Rest & Acclimatization, Sherpa prayer ceremony (puja).
14) Glacier and fixed rope training on small ice walls near basecamp.
15) Climb to camp 1 on the West Col, 6,126 metres (20,100 feet) using fixed ropes. Stunning views of Baruntse climbing route and massive Mt. Makalu.
16) Very short climb to camp 2 at 6,350 metres (20,828 feet). Camp 2 lies at the base of the Baruntse Ridge.
17) Summit attempt using fixed ropes, 7,129 metres (23,390 feet).
18) Extra day for summit attempt, return to basecamp.
19) Return to basecamp, rest, pack up.
20) Hike through the scenic Panch Pokhari (5 Lakes) valley to base of Amphu Labtsa pass, 5450 metres (17,876 feet). Camp.
21) Cross Amphu Labtsa pass, 5,845 metres (19,177 feet) to Chukkung village, 4,750 metres (15,584 feet). A very beautiful day of climbing and trekking to Khumbu/Everest valley, passing Island Peak. Sleep in teahouse.
22) Walk to Pangboche village 3,985 metres (13,070 feet). Famous Everest base camp trekking route with many lodges and restaurants and beautiful scenery of Mt. Ama Dablam. Sleep in teahouse.
23) Walk to Namche Bazaar, 3,450 metres (11,319 feet). This big village is the capital of the Sherpa people.
24) Walk to Lukla, 2,860 metres (9,383 feet). Village containing the famous airport used for flights between Everest region and Kathmandu. Sleep in teahouse.
25) Flight to Kathmandu. Stay at hotel.
26) Extra day in Kathmandu, in case of delay, and for sightseeing, gift shopping, celebration, saying goodbye to new friends. Stay at hotel.
27) Fly home.

Baruntse Climbing Expedition Leadership, Sherpas and Staff
Leadership: Dan Mazur is a relaxed, friendly, well organized, and highly skilled professional with over 20 years of experience leading people to the summits of Everest, K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Manaslu, Shishapangma and Baruntse.

Sherpas: We employ some of Nepal, Tibet, and the Karakorum’s best local mountaineers and Sherpas to assist team members in realizing their summit goals. Our friendly and loyal high altitude climbing staff has supported teams to the summits of more than ten of the highest peaks in the Himalaya.
Baruntse Climbing Expedition Personal & Team Mountain Equipment

Climbing:

  • Climbing harness
  • 5 meters (16 ft.) of 6mm accessory cord
  • Figure 8 abseil/belay device (tube style devices, i.e. ATC will not work on fixed lines)
  • Full size ascender (i.e. PetzlAscention)
  • 2 locking carabiners, 1 large and 1 small
  • 4 non-locking carabiners
  • Ice axe with leash
  • Steel crampons with anti-balling plates
  • Trekking poles
  • Abseiling/Rappelling Gloves

Upper Body:

  • 2 cotton t-shirts
  • 2 synthetic t-shirts
  • 2 long sleeve synthetic shirts
  • Light-weight soft shell jacket
  • Medium weight insulatingjacket (fleece, down, or synthetic)
  • Hard shell jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable (Gore-Tex or similar)
  • Heavy down coat
     
    • For 6,000m peaks a very warm down coat with hood or an 8,000m coat with hood
    • For 7,000m peaks an 8,000m coat with hood
    • For 8,000m peaks an 8,000m down coat with hood or an 8,000m suit can be used instead

Hands:

  • Lightweight poly-liner gloves
  • Mid-weight soft shell gloves – water/wind resistant
  • Heavy- weight waterproof gloves – Gore-tex shell with removable liner
  • Expedition weight mittens -Gore-tex over mitt matched polar fleece mitt liner

Head:

  • Helmet
  • Warm hat that covers your ears
  • Balaclava
  • Face mask
  • Baseball hat or brimmed sun hat
  • Glacier sunglasses with side shields
  • Ski goggles with light and dark lenses
  • Headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs
  • Buff/neck gaiter
  • Bandana or head scarf (optional)

Lower Body:

  • Synthetic underwear
  • Hiking shorts
  • Hiking pants
  • 2 pair lightweight thermal bottoms
  • Medium or expedition weight thermal bottoms
  • Polar fleece or soft shell pants
  • Waterproof/breathable pants with full side zips (Gore-Tex or similar)
  • Heavy insulating pants
     
    • For 6,000m peaks: Down or synthetic pants will full zips
    • For 7,000m peaks: 8,000m down pants
    • For 8,000m peaks: 8,000m down pants or a 8,000m suit can be used instead

Feet:

  • Boots
     
    • For 6,000m peaks: Plastic or composite double boots (Koflach, La SportivaSpantik, etc) Modern waterproof, single boots designed for 4-5,000m peaks may be suitable if they can be worn with 2 pairs of socks and vapor barrier lines and/or they are equipped with overboots
    • For 7,000m: Plastic or composite double boots (Koflach, La SportivaSpantik, etc)
    • For 8,000m peaks: 8,000m boots - One-Sport Millet Everest boots or equivalent
       
  • Sturdy leather walking boots
  • Trainers, running shoes and/or sandals
  • Down booties (optional)
  • 3 pair med-heavy poly or wool socks
  • 2 pair poly or wool liner socks (optional)
  • Vapor barrier liner socks (optional)
  • 2 pair lightweight trekking socks
  • Cotton socks for in town

Sleeping:

  • Down sleeping bag
     
    • For 6,000m peaks: -18C or 0F
    • For 7,000m peaks:-23C or -10F (If you sleep cold consider -29C or -20F)
    • For 8,000m peaks: -29C or -20F (If you sleep cold consider -40C or -40F)
       
  • An additional down sleeping bag for basecamp for the following climbs: Everest, Lhotse, AmaDablam, Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I and II, Spantik, K2/Broad Peak Everest training climb. For Mastagata a second sleeping bag is optional, but highly recommended.
     
    • Down base camp sleeping bag should be rated to -10C or 15F (If you sleep cold consider -18C or 0F)
       
  • 2 closed cell foam kari-mats (sleeping pads) for use in basecamp and high altitude (these can be purchased inexpensively in Kathmandu)
  • High quality inflatable sleeping pad designed for cold weather (Thermarest)
  • Patch kit for inflatable pad

Rucksack and Travel Bags:

  • Medium rucksack/backpack (50-70 litres / 3000-4500 cubic inches, can be used as carry-on bag)
  • Waterproof rucksack cover (optional)
  • 2 large (120+ L / 7500+ cubic inch) duffle kit bags for clothing and equipment
  • Small luggage locks for duffel kit bags

Personal Hygiene:

  • Female or male hygiene supplies
  • 2 tubes lip sun cream
  • Large tube skin sun cream (min factor 30)
  • Anti-mosquito cream
  • Toothpaste/brush
  • Hand sanitizer gel (small-medium bottle)
  • Bar of soap small towel
  • Hand wipes
  • Face Mask
  • Hand sanitiser
  • Disposable gloves
  • Disinfectant wipes

Medical:

  • Small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, first-aid tape, plasters (band-aids), personal medications, etc.
  • Blister repair kit
  • 10 anti-diarrhea pills
  • 20 anti-headache pills
  • 10 cough and/or cold medicine
  • Anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox, Acetylzolamide (optional)
  • 10 Stomach antibiotics: Ciprofloxacin, etc.
  • 5 Azithomycine tables
  • Steri pen or bottle of water purification tablets
  • Cough sweets/lozenges (Halls/Stepils)
  • Earplugs
  • Extra prescription glasses/contact lenses and supplies

Personal Food:

  • Snack food/daily energy food
     
    • Everest training Nepal/Tibet, AmaDablam, Baruntse: 2-4kg (4.5-9lbs)
    • Spantik, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Mustagata, Manasu: 2-5kg (4.5-11lbs)
    • Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I/II, K2/Everest training, Everest, Lhotse: 3-6kg (6.5-13lbs)
       
  • Dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for summit attempt
     
    • Everest training Nepal/Tibet, AmaDablam: 2 meals
    • Spantik, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Mustagata, Manasu, Baruntse: 3 meals
    • Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I/II, K2/Everest training, Everest, Lhotse: 5 meals
Practical:
 
  • Small roll of repair tape
  • Sewing repair kit
  • Cigarette lighter
  • Small box matches
  • Compass or GPS
  • Battery powered alarm clock/watch
  • Camera with extra cards and extra batteries
  • Nylon stuff sacks for food and gear storage
  • 2 water bottles (1 litre) wide-mouth Nalgene
  • Pee bottle (1litre or larger)
  • Plastic cup and spoon
  • Small folding knife
  • Binoculars (optional)
  • 4 large, waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks
  • Passport, 2 extra passport photos, flight ticket, flight itinerary
  • Separate photocopies of passport and relevant visa pages, proof of insurance
  • Dollars, pounds, or euros cash
  • Bank/ATM/Cash and credit cards
  • Bathing suit/swim suit (you never know)
  • Paperback books, playing cards, ipod/mp3 player, musical instruments, extra batteries, etc.
  • Travel clothes for basecamp and in town
  • Umbrella (optional)
  • Small solar panels for personal electronics (optional)


Group Equipment:

We provide group gear, equipment, and supplies including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection, tents; stoves, fuel, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. A personal tent will be provided for each member at base camp. On the upper mountain, team members will share tents. In base camp, a shower, toilet, solar charger, and a dining tent will be provided.

Baruntse Climbing Expedition Training and Mountain Experience
Extensive experience is not required for climbing Baruntse. The most important thing is for members to be in adequate walking fitness. You may attempt this climb as a novice and we will teach you what you need to know. No further experience is required.

To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active winter-walker-climber in good health. Prior to joining our group, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in extremes of altitude, and also for exotic locales.
Baruntse Climbing Expedition Application

Please fill out an application and return it to us with your refundable ten-percent deposit to hold your place on the team.
 


In addition to your application, we will need the following at least two months before the trip begins:  

  • Completed Payment
  • Oxygen order (if any)
  • Sherpa order (if any)
  • Trip Registration form
  • 1 Passport sized photo
  • A scan of your passport identification pages
  • Complete flight itinerary
  • Proof of travel, accident, and repatriation insurance. We strongly recommend Global Rescue, with at least $50,000 worth of helicopter rescue insurance.
  • Trip cancellation/interruption insurance is recommended

Please contact us with any questions you may have.

Here is what Jacqueline said: Hello SummitClimb, I want to send many thanks to you - for preparing me so well for the trip to Baruntse. The information was good, you were fast in answering the mails. I had such a wonderful time! It was challenging, but the experience was one of the best in my life.

I am grateful to the leader - please let him know: • He is a great leader because he places responsibility with Sherpas.• He's so modest.• He knows his participants and sees what they need, he regularly asks how you are doing.• He is a very experienced climber, and makes good decisions, for example when it comes to the timing of the Baruntse climb. • Whenever I mention his name, if people know him, they praise him. • He supported me when I had a hard time, so he is such a good coach.

If I go climbing in the Himalayas again, I hope to have him as a leader.

Thank you Summitclimb! Happy Christmas! - Jacqueline

Review from Kurt: Here's a few photos from my recent trip to Baruntse (7127m). Thanks to the leader, Sherpas, and SummitClimb for a well organized successful expedition. I have been on 4 expeditions to the Himalayas to climb Ama Dablam (2005), Cho Oyu (2008), Everest (2015), Baruntse and Mera (2016) peaks all with SummitClimb. I can highly recommend the leaders, staff and logistical preparations on all trips.

Here is what Markus Beck says: Nov 7: from Facebook: Good work. It was hard work with all that snow. Your team had it timed luckily for mera pk and baruntse BC to take advantage of good weather and a more solid trail. I'm sure for crossing amphu laptsa (which we abandoned on oct 26), it took a big group effort of the Sherpas to get it done. We met a few members of the team as well as the team leader. Good group, good organization. - Markus Beck

Here is what Geoff says: Yes indeed we met your Baruntse leader in Khare, and then had lots of contact with him through the climbing period in Base Camp. I believe your group summited Baruntse with 8 or 9 clients on about the 3rd of Nov. We then summitted (3 of us + 3 sherpas) two days later. We were very lucky with the weather, as you may have heard.

There was a big snow fall around the 1st of Nov that made things look pretty iffy. There's no doubt that the trail and the ropes set up by your group were a massive help for our summit bid... so if you could pass along our thanks to your leader, that would be greatly appreciated. We didn't get a chance to thank him personally before they left.

Good luck with the rest of your expeditions this year, and let's keep in touch! Regards, Geoff

Here is what Markus Beck says: Nov 7: from Facebook: Good work. It was hard work with all that snow. Your team had it timed luckily for mera pk and baruntse BC to take advantage of good weather and a more solid trail. I'm sure for crossing amphu laptsa (which we abandoned on oct 26), it took a big group effort of the Sherpas to get it done. We met a few members of the team as well as the team leader. Good group, good organization. - Markus Beck
Here is what Geoff says:

Yes indeed we met your Baruntse leader in Khare, and then had lots of contact with him through the climbing period in Base Camp. I believe your group summited Baruntse with 8 or 9 clients on about the 3rd of Nov. We then summitted (3 of us + 3 sherpas) two days later. We were very lucky with the weather, as you may have heard.

There was a big snow fall around the 1st of Nov that made things look pretty iffy. There's no doubt that the trail and the ropes set up by your group were a massive help for our summit bid... so if you could pass along our thanks to your leader, that would be greatly appreciated. We didn't get a chance to thank him personally before they left.

Good luck with the rest of your expeditions this year, and let's keep in touch! Regards, Geoff

Here what  George S says: First of all.. I'd like to thank your wonderful team for my first experience to join an international OPEN group expedition.

I enjoy so much. particularly I'm the only Zero-Zero-Zero. coming from zero degree (equator line),

zero snow (no four season) and Jakarta is "zero" sea level. so I learn a lot from all friends I met.

I enjoy the Mera Peak. even lots of raining in the first week. then following the valley into Baruntse BC was so beautiful,

So silent+peace. and Baruntse itself stands so challenging. even I missed the summit. but I like 'em all.

I won't forget the crossing Panch Pocari that surprised me with beautiful ponds.

Then ascending the ICE CAKE on the West Co. I never imagined how beautiful it is.. And finally Amphu Labtsa. it's stunning.

Came into the pass to get secret of the other side. and descending way is unbelievable !!

So I recommend this triple trip Mera-Baruntse-Amphu Labtsa. since Mera only is to short and considered as "warming up".

I like your kitchen's team "chef" and his smiling kitchen boys. who really support us.

I have no probrem with the food. Hot chocolate is the most valuable item.

The campsite chosen by Sherpa is good.

Porters are really strong and walk so fast.

Thanks George S

Here is what Jose says: Baruntse is a great expedition, and the Mera preliminary is a good test. The general experience of the sherpas and leaders is evident in terms of deciding strategy and defining daily schedules, this also implies that the tent, porters and kitchen teams work in a  very effective way.

Here is what Felix says:

- Beautiful itinerary with good campsites and many interesting activities;
- Good leaders;
- Lots of experienced staff and sherpas, even a good cook;
- International team: good teamwork and gathering of people.

Here is what Kurt has to say: I have been on 4 expeditions to the Himalayas to climb Ama Dablam (2005), Cho Oyu (2008), Everest (2015), Baruntse and Mera (2016) peaks all with SummitClimb. I can highly recommend the leaders, staff and logistical preparations on all trips. We were successful on all trips except for our North ridge attempt on Everest during the earthquake of 2015. I would recommend bringing additional food beyond the recommended snacks. Though the meals are well prepared, there is limited variety and supplementing them with food from home can be a nice morale booster.