Island Peak - Beginner Climb and Trek

Island Peak - Beginner Climb and Trek

Inexpensive beautiful mountain climb in just 1 day. Perfect for novices. Fun for experienced climbers too.
One of the most stunning places to take an up-close look at the high peaks around Everest.
Expedition includes a hike to Everest basecamp and Kala Patthar, as well as this fun, "easy" trekking peak.

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Full Service Cost: $4,150, £3,150 €3,450. 5 day option: $2,250
2021 and 2022 Full service dates: 12 January to 2 February OR 9 February to 2 March OR 9 March to 30 March OR 6 April to 27 April OR 20 April to 11 May. OR 1 to 22 November (22 days). Flexible dates are available. Call for details
2021 and 2022 5 Day Option: 24 January to 28 January OR 21 February to 25 February OR 21 March to 25 March OR 18 to 22 April OR 2 to 6 May OR 13 November to 17 November
We also offer a special Christmas and New Year Island peak expedition on 19 December to 3 January: ChristmasNewYearTrek.com

Island peak - Beginner Climb/Trek Overview

Island Peak (6189m/20,305’) is probably the easiest and most affordable way to obtain high-altitude experience and see how you feel above 6,000 meters. It is also a beautiful place to take an up-close look at the high peaks around Everest, including the famous south face of Lhotse, Makalu and north side of Ama Dablam. Our proposed schedule allows for acclimatization, training, practice and rest. The trip includes a fun trek to Everest Basecamp, as well as a trek to the top of Kala Pattar.

Please watch "Island Peak Video" a very good 7 minute film by Richard Pattison.

Island Peak Expedition Cost

Our full-service climb includes:

British, American, and European leader/coordinator
Climbing Sherpa for the group
All internal / domestic transport
Full service trek to / from base camp
Three meals per day
Permit fees and liaison officers
Group gear, emergency equipment, satellite phone
Personal tents in basecamp (no sharing)
Double occupancy tents above base camp
Full base camp with dinning tent, bathroom
Two nights stay in Kathmandu hotel on arrival and two nights prior to departure in a double room. Private rooms are available for a small additional fee.

5 day option: We offer a five day trip for those members that wish to meet our team on day 13 of the itinerary in Chukkung Village. Members must arrange their own trek before and after the 5 days of climbing. All of the services provided to our full-service members will be offered to members who wish to only do the 5 day program while climbing Island Peak. This can be a great option for those who are participating in other treks/climbs in the region.

What is not included?

International flights to/from Kathmandu
Mountain climbing rescue and travel insurance
Personal climbing equipment and clothing
Gratuities for staff
Nepalese visa

Island Peak Expedition Itinerary

1) Arrive in Kathmandu. Stay at hotel.
2) Orientation meeting and gear check. Stay at hotel
3) Fly to Lukla 2840m (9318’). Trek to Phakding 2650 meters (8,694’). Stay at teahouse.
4) Trek to Namche Bazaar 3440 meters (11,286’). Stay at teahouse.
5) Rest, acclimate, and relax in Namche Bazaar.
6) Trek to Tengboche, 3900 meters (12,795’). Stay at teahouse.
7) Trek to the village of Pheriche, 4250 meters (13,944’). Stay at teahouse.
8) Trek to the village of Dughla at 4620 meters (15,157’). Stay at teahouse.
9) Trek to the village Lobuche, 4930 meters (16,175’). Stay at teahouse.
10) Trek to GorakShep, 5160 meters (16,929’). Stay at teahouse.
11) Trek to Everest basecamp, onthe Khumbu glacier at 5300 meters (17,388’). Stay at teahouse in GorakShep
12) Trek to Kala Patar, then go to Dingboche, 4530 meters (14,862 feet’). Stay at teahouse.
13) Trek to Chukkung Village at 4700 meters (15,420’). Stay at teahouse.
14) Trek to Island Peak basecamp at 5100 meters (16,732’). Camp
15) Rest in Island Peak basecamp and train to ascend and descend fixed ropes.
16) Summit Day, camp in basecamp.
17) Trek to Pangboche. Stay at teahouse.
18) Trek to Namche Bazaar. Stay at teahouse.
19) Trek to Lukla. Stay at teahouse.
20) Return flight to Kathmandu. Stay at hotel.
21) Extra day of rest and celebration in Kathmandu. Stay at hotel.
22) Flight Home.

Island Peak Expedition Leadership and Staff

Leadership: Dan Mazur is a relaxed, friendly, well organized, and highly skilled professional with over 20 years of experience leading people to the summits of Everest, K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Manaslu, Shishapangma, Baruntse, and Island Peak

Sherpas: We employ some of Nepal, Tibet, and the Karakorum’s best local mountaineers and Sherpas to assist team members in realizing their summit goals. Our friendly and loyal high altitude climbing staff has supported teams to the summits of more than ten of the highest peaks in the Himalaya.

Island Peak Expedition Personal and Team Equipment

Climbing:

Climbing harness
5 meters (16 ft.) of 6mm accessory cord
Figure 8 abseil/belay device (tube style devices, i.e. ATC will not work on fixed lines)
Full size ascender (i.e. PetzlAscention)
2 locking carabiners, 1 large and 1 small
4 non-locking carabiners
Ice axe with leash
Steel crampons with anti-balling plates
Trekking poles
Abseiling/Rappelling Gloves

Upper Body:

2 cotton t-shirts
2 synthetic t-shirts
2 long sleeve synthetic shirts
Light-weight soft shell jacket
Medium weight insulatingjacket (fleece, down, or synthetic)
Hard shell jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable (Gore-Tex or similar)
Heavy down coat
- For 6,000m peaks a very warm down coat with hood or an 8,000m coat with hood
- For 7,000m peaks an 8,000m coat with hood
- For 8,000m peaks an 8,000m down coat with hood or an 8,000m suit can be used instead

Hands:

Lightweight poly-liner gloves
Mid-weight soft shell gloves – water/wind resistant
Heavy- weight waterproof gloves – Gore-tex shell with removable liner
Expedition weight mittens -Gore-tex over mitt matched polar fleece mitt liner

Head:

Helmet
Warm hat that covers your ears
Balaclava
Face mask
Baseball hat or brimmed sun hat
Glacier sunglasses with side shields
Ski goggles with light and dark lenses
Headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs
Buff/neck gaiter
Bandana or head scarf (optional)

Lower Body:

Synthetic underwear
Hiking shorts
Hiking pants
2 pair lightweight thermal bottoms
Medium or expedition weight thermal bottoms
Polar fleece or soft shell pants
Waterproof/breathable pants with full side zips (Gore-Tex or similar)
Heavy insulating pants
- For 6,000m peaks: Down or synthetic pants will full zips
- For 7,000m peaks: 8,000m down pants
- For 8,000m peaks: 8,000m down pants or a 8,000m suit can be used instead

Feet:

Boots
- For 6,000m peaks: Plastic or composite double boots (Koflach, La SportivaSpantik, etc) Modern waterproof, single boots designed for 4-5,000m peaks may be suitable if they can be worn with 2 pairs of socks and vapor barrier lines and/or they are equipped with overboots
- For 7,000m: Plastic or composite double boots (Koflach, La SportivaSpantik, etc)
- For 8,000m peaks: 8,000m boots - One-Sport Millet Everest boots or equivalent
Sturdy leather walking boots
Trainers, running shoes and/or sandals
Down booties (optional)
3 pair med-heavy poly or wool socks
2 pair poly or wool liner socks (optional)
Vapor barrier liner socks (optional)
2 pair lightweight trekking socks
Cotton socks for in town

Sleeping:

Down sleeping bag
- For 6,000m peaks: -18C or 0F
- For 7,000m peaks:-23C or -10F (If you sleep cold consider -29C or -20F)
- For 8,000m peaks: -29C or -20F (If you sleep cold consider -40C or -40F)
An additional down sleeping bag for basecamp for the following climbs: Everest, Lhotse, AmaDablam, Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I and II, Spantik, K2/Broad Peak Everest training climb. For Mastagata a second sleeping bag is optional, but highly recommended.
- Down base camp sleeping bag should be rated to -10C or 15F (If you sleep cold consider -18C or 0F)
2 closed cell foam kari-mats (sleeping pads) for use in basecamp and high altitude (these can be purchased inexpensively in Kathmandu)
High quality inflatable sleeping pad designed for cold weather (Thermarest)
Patch kit for inflatable pad

Rucksack and Travel Bags:

Medium rucksack/backpack (50-70 litres / 3000-4500 cubic inches, can be used as carry-on bag)
Waterproof rucksack cover (optional)
2 large (120+ L / 7500+ cubic inch) duffle kit bags for clothing and equipment
Small luggage locks for duffel kit bags

Personal Hygiene:

Female or male hygiene supplies
2 tubes lip sun cream
Large tube skin sun cream (min factor 30)
Anti-mosquito cream
Toothpaste/brush
Hand sanitizer gel (small-medium bottle)
Bar of soap small towel
Hand wipes
Face Mask
Hand sanitiser
Disposable gloves
Disinfectant wipes

Medical:

Small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, first-aid tape, plasters (band-aids), personal medications, etc.
Blister repair kit
10 anti-diarrhea pills
20 anti-headache pills
10 cough and/or cold medicine
Anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox, Acetylzolamide (optional)
10 Stomach antibiotics: Ciprofloxacin, etc.
5 Azithomycine tables
Steri pen or bottle of water purification tablets
Cough sweets/lozenges (Halls/Stepils)
Earplugs
Extra prescription glasses/contact lenses and supplies

Personal Food:

Snack food/daily energy food
- Everest training Nepal/Tibet, AmaDablam, Baruntse: 2-4kg (4.5-9lbs)
- Spantik, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Mustagata, Manasu: 2-5kg (4.5-11lbs)
- Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I/II, K2/Everest training, Everest, Lhotse: 3-6kg (6.5-13lbs)
Dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for summit attempt
- Everest training Nepal/Tibet, AmaDablam: 2 meals
- Spantik, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Mustagata, Manasu, Baruntse: 3 meals
- Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I/II, K2/Everest training, Everest, Lhotse: 5 meals

Practical:

Small roll of repair tape
Sewing repair kit
Cigarette lighter
Small box matches
Compass or GPS
Battery powered alarm clock/watch
Camera with extra cards and extra batteries
Nylon stuff sacks for food and gear storage
2 water bottles (1 litre) wide-mouth Nalgene
Pee bottle (1litre or larger)
Plastic cup and spoon
Small folding knife
Binoculars (optional)
4 large, waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks
Passport, 2 extra passport photos, flight ticket, flight itinerary
Separate photocopies of passport and relevant visa pages, proof of insurance
Dollars, pounds, or euros cash
Bank/ATM/Cash and credit cards
Bathing suit/swim suit (you never know)
Paperback books, playing cards, ipod/mp3 player, musical instruments, extra batteries, etc.
Travel clothes for basecamp and in town
Umbrella (optional)
Small solar panels for personal electronics (optional)

Group Equipment:

We provide group gear, equipment, and supplies including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection, tents; stoves, fuel, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. A personal tent will be provided for each member at base camp. On the upper mountain, team members will share tents. In base camp, a shower, toilet, solar charger, and a dining tent will be provided

Island Peak Expedition Experience and Training

Extensive experience is not required for climbing Island Peak. The most important thing is for members to be in adequate walking fitness. You may attempt this climb as a novice and we will teach you what you need to know.

Prior to joining our group, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in extremes of altitude, and also for exotic locales.

Island Peak Photo Gallery

Headwall
Nearing the summit
Summit Ridge
Climbing
Summit Ridge
Summit Ridge
Summit
Summit
Glacier crossing
Descending
Starting the headwall
Climbing the headwall

Island Peak Application Forms

Please fill out an application and return it to us with your refundable ten-percent deposit to hold your place on the team.

Island Peak Application for US Team Members : PDF Form or MS Word Doc
Island Peak Application for all other Team Members : PDF Form or MS Word Doc

In addition to your application, we will need the following at least two months before the Island Peak trip begins:

Completed Payment
Oxygen order (if any)
Sherpa order (if any)
Trip Registration form
1 Passport sized photo
A scan of your passport identification pages
Complete flight itinerary
Proof of travel, accident, and repatriation insurance. We strongly recommend Global Rescue, with at least $50,000 worth of helicopter rescue insurance.
Trip cancellation/interruption insurance is recommended

Please contact us with any questions you may have.

Here is what Christine says: A big thank you to our leader as well as to all the sherpas of summit climb and the porters who perform a herculean work... I was so happy to leave with a group that considers the life of the locals and the environment as the sacred part of the approach in the high mountain.

Here is what Brad says: Just got back to Kathmandu from a successful Island Peak expedition and loved every minute of it! I appreciate all that Summit Climb did to make this experience so memorable for me. Hopefully I’ll be able to do another climb with you guys in the future." - Brad

Here is what Elselien says: "I think a good thing about this trip is having a trek included with the expedition. People really like having that look into the 'expedition world' but usually don't want the uncomfortable/cold suffering part themselves. They mostly like a night or two/three of camping but prefer (definately higher up) the lodges. Another good thing is that this trip is being organized by very experienced people who know how things work in Nepal and can offer solutions to unexpected problems. Trekkers usually feel that this trip is relaxed and the leaders are flexible when and where they can. This gives them a feeling of being more part of the team because their questions and opinion are being heard.

I really like the fact that it is fairly easy to achieve a high altitude while trekking the original Everest route from the 1920-1953 Everest expeditions.

It's a real good way to do a fun little climb in the big Himalayas. It has some scrambling, glacier crossing and a nice headwall. It's a fairly safe climb with a possibly high succes rate and a good summit (because of the small size and the scenery) feeling. Using the high camp makes the summit more achievable and that day a little easier.

The trip is ideal to start a Himalayan climbing career and whatever happens it will be a great and worthy experience."

Here is what Wanda says: "My concern about any problems in Nepal I heard about before the trip were non-existent in the areas we traveled. We did not witness any such disturbance. Traveling as a single female, I am probably a little more cautious than most but I have to say that never once did I feel concerned about my safety."

Here is what Patty had to say: "What was good about the trek - the lodges, the peace and tranquility of the trek, the people of Nepal, the Yaks - EVERYTHING!!!

We loved it. We got to meet other trekkers and have more interaction with the people in Nepal. Each lodge was so unique and the owners and their children so special. I loved the quiet of the

trek... there were no motors running, the only sound was the people, dogs and yaks!

To prepare for the trip... walk - LOTS! Hike if you have any hills/mountains in your area but WALK - WALK - WALK. I felt stronger and stronger the farther we went. They may also want to practice walking with poles. I never used them and they may have helped on the way down with my knees.

What to expect - expect to enjoy the experience. Just let the little things go and open yourself up to living through one of the most amazing experiences in your life. Don't expect it to be like home... you are there to experience a different aspect of life, not your normal day to day existence.

I also LOVE the fact that you have added on Island Peak - I would have done that FOR SURE!!! I'm very disappointed we didn't have that opportunity, which just reinforces my drive to go back. You know, we swore this was a once in a lifetime trip and we didn't think we would ever go again BUT we loved it. I was really tired by the time we got home and it took me a couple of day before I REALLY appreciated all that we had experienced. It didn't sink in until we were home, going through the pictures, handing out the gifts we had bought, etc. when it hit me - It was one of the BEST things I have ever done for me personally and for Rob and I as a couple. Not everyone takes the opportunity to experience life and to live life, the trek make us both feel like we have lived life a bit more... but we're not done yet!!!

Let people know they can purchase almost ALL of their gear in Katmandu for much cheaper prices than in most countries and it is GOOD gear, not just junk. We would not have bought as much clothing, etc. to Katmandu if we would have known this. Not only would we have saved $$ BUT we would have supported more people in Katmandu. It may be a third world country, BUT the Nepalese know what trekkers and climbers need."

Here is what Dennis from Utah says: "It was quite an experience of which I will never forget. The views of the Himalayan Peaks were stunning and the people I met were awesome. You have a great team of guides and staff assembled and I enjoyed my time with each one of them and found them to be professional and well suited for the trip. The porters and cooks were quite impressive as well. Thank you for a wonderful, life fulfilling dream come true. Your program is awesome and I have told several people already of the quality of Summit Climb."

Here is what Blake from Missouri, USA says: "I was lucky to have chosen SummitClimb. Being in Nepal I realized what an amazing operation you guys run and how respected the leaders are. I was proud to have been a part of this year’s expedition and look forward to many more in the future.

The leadership, organization and professionalism from everyone involved were great. Every problem was addressed immediately by the guides and solved seamlessly. The leaders were amazing and the porters they hired were first rate. Top notch work guys!"