Island Peak - Beginner Climb and Trek

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Island Peak - Beginner Climb and Trek

  • Full Service Cost: $3,450 £2,650 €3,050. 5 day option: $1850
  • 2020 Full service dates: 1 to 22 Nov 2020 (22 days in Nepal). Flexible dates are available. Call for details
  • 5 Day Option: 13 November to 17 November 2020
  • 2021 Full service dates: 6 to 27 April, 20 April to 11 May, or 1 to 22 Nov 2021 (22 days in Nepal). Flexible dates are available. Call for details
  • 5 Day Option: 18 to 22 April, 2 to 6 May, 22 to 26 October, 13 November to 17 November 2021
  • We also offer a special Christmas and New Year Island peak expedition: 19 December, 2020 , to 6 January, 2021 : ChristmasNewYearTrek.com

Join the team

More Information

  • Inexpensive beautiful mountain climb in just 1 day. Perfect for novices. Fun for experienced climbers too.
  • One of the most stunning places to take an up-close look at the high peaks around Everest.
  • Expedition includes a hike to Everest basecamp and Kala Patthar, as well as this fun, "easy" trekking peak.

Island peak - Beginner Climb/Trek Overview

Island Peak (6189m/20,305’) is probably the easiest and most affordable way to obtain high-altitude experience and see how you feel above 6,000 meters. It is also a beautiful place to take an up-close look at the high peaks around Everest, including the famous south face of Lhotse, Makalu and north side of Ama Dablam. Our proposed schedule allows for acclimatization, training, practice and rest. The trip includes a fun trek to Everest Basecamp, as well as a trek to the top of Kala Pattar.

 


Please watch "Island Peak Video" a very good 7 minute film by Richard Pattison.

Island Peak Expedition Cost

Our full-service climb includes:

5 day option: We offer a five day trip for those members that wish to meet our team on day 13 of the itinerary in Chukkung Village. Members must arrange their own trek before and after the 5 days of climbing. All of the services provided to our full-service members will be offered to members who wish to only do the 5 day program while climbing Island Peak. This can be a great option for those who are participating in other treks/climbs in the region.

What is not included?

  • International flights to/from Kathmandu
  • Mountain climbing rescue and travel insurance
  • Personal climbing equipment and clothing
  • Gratuities for staff
  • Nepalese visa
Island Peak Expedition Itinerary
1) Arrive in Kathmandu. Stay at hotel.
2) Orientation meeting and gear check. Stay at hotel
3) Fly to Lukla 2840m (9318’). Trek to Phakding 2650 meters (8,694’). Stay at teahouse.
4) Trek to Namche Bazaar 3440 meters (11,286’). Stay at teahouse.
5) Rest, acclimate, and relax in Namche Bazaar.
6) Trek to Tengboche, 3900 meters (12,795’). Stay at teahouse.
7) Trek to the village of Pheriche, 4250 meters (13,944’). Stay at teahouse.
8) Trek to the village of Dughla at 4620 meters (15,157’). Stay at teahouse.
9) Trek to the village Lobuche, 4930 meters (16,175’). Stay at teahouse.
10) Trek to GorakShep, 5160 meters (16,929’). Stay at teahouse.
11) Trek to Everest basecamp, onthe Khumbu glacier at 5300 meters (17,388’). Stay at teahouse in GorakShep
12) Trek to Kala Patar, then go to Dingboche, 4530 meters (14,862 feet’). Stay at teahouse.
13) Trek to Chukkung Village at 4700 meters (15,420’). Stay at teahouse.
14) Trek to Island Peak basecamp at 5100 meters (16,732’). Camp
15) Rest in Island Peak basecamp and train to ascend and descend fixed ropes.
16) Summit Day, camp in basecamp.
17) Trek to Pangboche. Stay at teahouse.
18) Trek to Namche Bazaar. Stay at teahouse.
19) Trek to Lukla. Stay at teahouse.
20) Return flight to Kathmandu. Stay at hotel.
21) Extra day of rest and celebration in Kathmandu. Stay at hotel.
22) Flight Home.
Island Peak Expedition Leadership and Staff
Leadership: Dan Mazur is a relaxed, friendly, well organized, and highly skilled professional with over 20 years of experience leading people to the summits of Everest, K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Manaslu, Shishapangma, Baruntse, and Island Peak

Sherpas: We employ some of Nepal, Tibet, and the Karakorum’s best local mountaineers and Sherpas to assist team members in realizing their summit goals. Our friendly and loyal high altitude climbing staff has supported teams to the summits of more than ten of the highest peaks in the Himalaya.
Island Peak Expedition Personal and Team Equipment

Climbing:

  • Climbing harness
  • 5 meters (16 ft.) of 6mm accessory cord
  • Figure 8 abseil/belay device (tube style devices, i.e. ATC will not work on fixed lines)
  • Full size ascender (i.e. PetzlAscention)
  • 2 locking carabiners, 1 large and 1 small
  • 4 non-locking carabiners
  • Ice axe with leash
  • Steel crampons with anti-balling plates
  • Trekking poles
  • Abseiling/Rappelling Gloves

Upper Body:

  • 2 cotton t-shirts
  • 2 synthetic t-shirts
  • 2 long sleeve synthetic shirts
  • Light-weight soft shell jacket
  • Medium weight insulatingjacket (fleece, down, or synthetic)
  • Hard shell jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable (Gore-Tex or similar)
  • Heavy down coat
     
    • For 6,000m peaks a very warm down coat with hood or an 8,000m coat with hood
    • For 7,000m peaks an 8,000m coat with hood
    • For 8,000m peaks an 8,000m down coat with hood or an 8,000m suit can be used instead

Hands:

  • Lightweight poly-liner gloves
  • Mid-weight soft shell gloves – water/wind resistant
  • Heavy- weight waterproof gloves – Gore-tex shell with removable liner
  • Expedition weight mittens -Gore-tex over mitt matched polar fleece mitt liner

Head:

  • Helmet
  • Warm hat that covers your ears
  • Balaclava
  • Face mask
  • Baseball hat or brimmed sun hat
  • Glacier sunglasses with side shields
  • Ski goggles with light and dark lenses
  • Headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs
  • Buff/neck gaiter
  • Bandana or head scarf (optional)

Lower Body:

  • Synthetic underwear
  • Hiking shorts
  • Hiking pants
  • 2 pair lightweight thermal bottoms
  • Medium or expedition weight thermal bottoms
  • Polar fleece or soft shell pants
  • Waterproof/breathable pants with full side zips (Gore-Tex or similar)
  • Heavy insulating pants
     
    • For 6,000m peaks: Down or synthetic pants will full zips
    • For 7,000m peaks: 8,000m down pants
    • For 8,000m peaks: 8,000m down pants or a 8,000m suit can be used instead

Feet:

  • Boots
     
    • For 6,000m peaks: Plastic or composite double boots (Koflach, La SportivaSpantik, etc) Modern waterproof, single boots designed for 4-5,000m peaks may be suitable if they can be worn with 2 pairs of socks and vapor barrier lines and/or they are equipped with overboots
    • For 7,000m: Plastic or composite double boots (Koflach, La SportivaSpantik, etc)
    • For 8,000m peaks: 8,000m boots - One-Sport Millet Everest boots or equivalent
       
  • Sturdy leather walking boots
  • Trainers, running shoes and/or sandals
  • Down booties (optional)
  • 3 pair med-heavy poly or wool socks
  • 2 pair poly or wool liner socks (optional)
  • Vapor barrier liner socks (optional)
  • 2 pair lightweight trekking socks
  • Cotton socks for in town

Sleeping:

  • Down sleeping bag
     
    • For 6,000m peaks: -18C or 0F
    • For 7,000m peaks:-23C or -10F (If you sleep cold consider -29C or -20F)
    • For 8,000m peaks: -29C or -20F (If you sleep cold consider -40C or -40F)
       
  • An additional down sleeping bag for basecamp for the following climbs: Everest, Lhotse, AmaDablam, Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I and II, Spantik, K2/Broad Peak Everest training climb. For Mastagata a second sleeping bag is optional, but highly recommended.
     
    • Down base camp sleeping bag should be rated to -10C or 15F (If you sleep cold consider -18C or 0F)
       
  • 2 closed cell foam kari-mats (sleeping pads) for use in basecamp and high altitude (these can be purchased inexpensively in Kathmandu)
  • High quality inflatable sleeping pad designed for cold weather (Thermarest)
  • Patch kit for inflatable pad

Rucksack and Travel Bags:

  • Medium rucksack/backpack (50-70 litres / 3000-4500 cubic inches, can be used as carry-on bag)
  • Waterproof rucksack cover (optional)
  • 2 large (120+ L / 7500+ cubic inch) duffle kit bags for clothing and equipment
  • Small luggage locks for duffel kit bags

Personal Hygiene:

  • Female or male hygiene supplies
  • 2 tubes lip sun cream
  • Large tube skin sun cream (min factor 30)
  • Anti-mosquito cream
  • Toothpaste/brush
  • Hand sanitizer gel (small-medium bottle)
  • Bar of soap small towel
  • Hand wipes

Medical:

  • Small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, first-aid tape, plasters (band-aids), personal medications, etc.
  • Blister repair kit
  • 10 anti-diarrhea pills
  • 20 anti-headache pills
  • 10 cough and/or cold medicine
  • Anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox, Acetylzolamide (optional)
  • 10 Stomach antibiotics: Ciprofloxacin, etc.
  • 5 Azithomycine tables
  • Steri pen or bottle of water purification tablets
  • Cough sweets/lozenges (Halls/Stepils)
  • Earplugs
  • Extra prescription glasses/contact lenses and supplies

Personal Food:

  • Snack food/daily energy food
     
    • Everest training Nepal/Tibet, AmaDablam, Baruntse: 2-4kg (4.5-9lbs)
    • Spantik, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Mustagata, Manasu: 2-5kg (4.5-11lbs)
    • Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I/II, K2/Everest training, Everest, Lhotse: 3-6kg (6.5-13lbs)
       
  • Dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for summit attempt
     
    • Everest training Nepal/Tibet, AmaDablam: 2 meals
    • Spantik, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Mustagata, Manasu, Baruntse: 3 meals
    • Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I/II, K2/Everest training, Everest, Lhotse: 5 meals
Practical:
 
  • Small roll of repair tape
  • Sewing repair kit
  • Cigarette lighter
  • Small box matches
  • Compass or GPS
  • Battery powered alarm clock/watch
  • Camera with extra cards and extra batteries
  • Nylon stuff sacks for food and gear storage
  • 2 water bottles (1 litre) wide-mouth Nalgene
  • Pee bottle (1litre or larger)
  • Plastic cup and spoon
  • Small folding knife
  • Binoculars (optional)
  • 4 large, waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks
  • Passport, 2 extra passport photos, flight ticket, flight itinerary
  • Separate photocopies of passport and relevant visa pages, proof of insurance
  • Dollars, pounds, or euros cash
  • Bank/ATM/Cash and credit cards
  • Bathing suit/swim suit (you never know)
  • Paperback books, playing cards, ipod/mp3 player, musical instruments, extra batteries, etc.
  • Travel clothes for basecamp and in town
  • Umbrella (optional)
  • Small solar panels for personal electronics (optional)


Group Equipment:

We provide group gear, equipment, and supplies including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection, tents; stoves, fuel, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. A personal tent will be provided for each member at base camp. On the upper mountain, team members will share tents. In base camp, a shower, toilet, solar charger, and a dining tent will be provided

Island Peak Expedition Experience and Training
Extensive experience is not required for climbing Island Peak. The most important thing is for members to be in adequate walking fitness. You may attempt this climb as a novice and we will teach you what you need to know. No further experience is required.

To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active winter walker/climber and be in good health. Prior to joining our group, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in extremes of altitude, and also for exotic locales.
Island Peak Photo Gallery
  • Headwall

    Headwall

  • Nearing the summit

    Nearing the summit

  • Summit Ridge

    Summit Ridge

  • Climbing

    Climbing

  • Summit Ridge

    Summit Ridge

  • Summit Ridge

    Summit Ridge

  • Summit

    Summit

  • Summit

    Summit

  • Glacier crossing

    Glacier crossing

  • Descending

    Descending

  • Starting the headwall

    Starting the headwall

  • Climbing the headwall

    Climbing the headwall

Island Peak Application Forms

Please fill out an application and return it to us with your refundable ten-percent deposit to hold your place on the team.

In addition to your application, we will need the following at least two months before the Island Peak trip begins:

  • Completed Payment
  • Oxygen order (if any)
  • Sherpa order (if any)
  • Trip Registration form
  • 1 Passport sized photo
  • A scan of your passport identification pages
  • Complete flight itinerary
  • Proof of travel, accident, and repatriation insurance. We strongly recommend Global Rescue, with at least $50,000 worth of helicopter rescue insurance.
  • Trip cancellation/interruption insurance is recommended

Please contact us with any questions you may have.

Here is what Christine says: A big thank you to our leader as well as to all the sherpas of summit climb and the porters who perform a herculean work... I was so happy to leave with a group that considers the life of the locals and the environment as the sacred part of the approach in the high mountain.
Here is what Brad says: Just got back to Kathmandu from a successful Island Peak expedition and loved every minute of it! I appreciate all that Summit Climb did to make this experience so memorable for me. Hopefully I’ll be able to do another climb with you guys in the future." - Brad

Here is what Elselien says: "I think a good thing about this trip is having a trek included with the expedition. People really like having that look into the 'expedition world' but usually don't want the uncomfortable/cold suffering part themselves. They mostly like a night or two/three of camping but prefer (definately higher up) the lodges. Another good thing is that this trip is being organized by very experienced people who know how things work in Nepal and can offer solutions to unexpected problems. Trekkers usually feel that this trip is relaxed and the leaders are flexible when and where they can. This gives them a feeling of being more part of the team because their questions and opinion are being heard.

I really like the fact that it is fairly easy to achieve a high altitude while trekking the original Everest route from the 1920-1953 Everest expeditions.

It's a real good way to do a fun little climb in the big Himalayas. It has some scrambling, glacier crossing and a nice headwall. It's a fairly safe climb with a possibly high succes rate and a good summit (because of the small size and the scenery) feeling. Using the high camp makes the summit more achievable and that day a little easier.

 The trip is ideal to start a Himalayan climbing career and whatever happens it will be a great and worthy experience."

Here is what Wanda says: "My concern about any problems in Nepal I heard about before the trip were non-existent in the areas we traveled. We did not witness any such disturbance. Traveling as a single female, I am probably a little more cautious than most but I have to say that never once did I feel concerned about my safety."

Here is what Patty had to say: "What was good about the trek - the lodges, the peace and tranquility of the trek, the people of Nepal, the Yaks - EVERYTHING!!!

We loved it. We got to meet other trekkers and have more interaction with the people in Nepal. Each lodge was so unique and the owners and their children so special. I loved the quiet of the

trek... there were no motors running, the only sound was the people, dogs and yaks!

To prepare for the trip... walk - LOTS! Hike if you have any hills/mountains in your area but WALK - WALK - WALK. I felt stronger and stronger the farther we went. They may also want to practice walking with poles. I never used them and they may have helped on the way down with my knees.

What to expect - expect to enjoy the experience. Just let the little things go and open yourself up to living through one of the most amazing experiences in your life. Don't expect it to be like home... you are there to experience a different aspect of life, not your normal day to day existence.

I also LOVE the fact that you have added on Island Peak - I would have done that FOR SURE!!! I'm very disappointed we didn't have that opportunity, which just reinforces my drive to go back. You know, we swore this was a once in a lifetime trip and we didn't think we would ever go again BUT we loved it. I was really tired by the time we got home and it took me a couple of day before I REALLY appreciated all that we had experienced. It didn't sink in until we were home, going through the pictures, handing out the gifts we had bought, etc. when it hit me - It was one of the BEST things I have ever done for me personally and for Rob and I as a couple. Not everyone takes the opportunity to experience life and to live life, the trek make us both feel like we have lived life a bit more... but we're not done yet!!!

Let people know they can purchase almost ALL of their gear in Katmandu for much cheaper prices than in most countries and it is GOOD gear, not just junk. We would not have bought as much clothing, etc. to Katmandu if we would have known this. Not only would we have saved $$ BUT we would have supported more people in Katmandu. It may be a third world country, BUT the Nepalese know what trekkers and climbers need."

Here is what Dennis from Utah says: "It was quite an experience of which I will never forget. The views of the Himalayan Peaks were stunning and the people I met were awesome. You have a great team of guides and staff assembled and I enjoyed my time with each one of them and found them to be professional and well suited for the trip. The porters and cooks were quite impressive as well. Thank you for a wonderful, life fulfilling dream come true. Your program is awesome and I have told several people already of the quality of Summit Climb."

Here is what Blake from Missouri, USA says: "I was lucky to have chosen SummitClimb. Being in Nepal I realized what an amazing operation you guys run and how respected the leaders are.  I was proud to have been a part of this year’s expedition and look forward to many more in the future.

The leadership, organization and professionalism from everyone involved were great. Every problem was addressed immediately by the guides and solved seamlessly. The leaders were amazing and the porters they hired were first rate. Top notch work guys!"