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Gasherbrum I Climbing Expedition | SummitClimb

  • gasherbrum Gasherbrum
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  • Dates and Cost:  15 June to 5 August, 2018 . 52 days in Pakistan
  • Full Service Cost: $14,850, £11,450, €12,450; Basic Climb Cost: $9,850, £7,650, €8,250. (Converted 1-09-2017)
  • Full Service Price Includes: Leader Dan Mazur, expert Sherpas, climb permits, transport from Islamabad (ISB) to basecamp (BC), hotels in ISB and drive to BC, advanced basecamp (ABC), high camps, tents (individual ABC tent per member), expedition costs, meals & food, climb equipment, fixed ropes and fees, radios, internet, international phone, etc.
  • Basic Price Includes: Leader Dan Mazur, climb permits, transport from Islamabad (ISB) to basecamp (BC), hotels in ISB and drive/fly to BC, trek to BC, all basecamp (BC), meals, tents (individual BC tent per member), group climb equipment, fixed ropes and fees, radios, internet, international phone, etc. Basic price includes no services above basecamp.
  • Inexpensive 8,080 metre / 26,550 foot peak in wild Pakistan.
  • A great way to test yourself at a very high elevation and get to know some of the world's most astonishing landscapes.
  • Climbing Gasherbrum qualifies you for Everest from Tibet, Everest from Nepal or Lhotse.
  • We help you buy and rent inexpensive mountain climbing, trekking, hiking, and walking gear, equipment, clothing, boots, shoes for sale, purchase and hire at affordable, cheap, low prices.
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Gasherbrum-I overview

Gasherbrum I as K5 and also known as Hidden Peak, is the 11th highest mountain in the world at 8,080 metres (26,510 ft) above sea level. It is located on the Pakistani – Chinese border in Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan and Xinjiang region of China. Gasherbrum I is part of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram region of the Himalaya.

Who is this trip for?

We encourage men and women from around the world, of all ages to join us as an individual team member, a friend or even with your own group, whether that is your spouse, partner, friends, sibling, clients, colleagues, etc. Most of our members join as individuals, our team dynamics work well, and we are able to build successful and safe groups that enjoy trekking, climbing, and traveling together.

You should have previous high altitude climbing experience (Lhakpa Ri / North Col, Ama Dablam, Mustagata, Aconcagua, Denali, or other), climbing and foreign travel.

To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active winter-walker-climber in good health. Prior to joining, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice. We also ask our members to be extremely patient as they might witness long periods of bad weather conditions and sometimes delays due to burocratic issues.

Gasherbrum I cost

Our “full-service” expedition includes:

Leader: Cost includes a very experienced and qualified British, European, or American leader, high-altitude porters for group gear, baggage transport to BC, airport pick up, transportation from Islamabad to Skardu and Askoli, 3 hot meals per day in BC, skillful BC cooks, food and camping for the approach camps, high-altitude food above BC (not including freeze-dried/dehydrated meals), all permits and liaison officers, individual tents at BC and shared tents above BC and during the approach, porters to basecamp, high-altitude gas cookers & gas, emergency equipment and group climbing equipment.

  • Organisation of the expedition
  • Climbing permit at reduced rate (60%) - liaison officer
  • Travel costs of liaison officer
  • Environmental fee Baltistan-Gilgit
  • Transfer to basecamp and back including. 40 kg personal luggage
  • Airport pickup in Islamabad
  • Accommodation 2 nights in Islamabad and upto 4 nights in Skardu
  • Half board during the trip from Islamabad to Skardu and back
  • Drive in Islamabad-Skardu-Islamabad in aircon bus
  • Trekking to basecamp and back
  • Trekking: double accommodation in tent
  • Trekking: Full board during the trek (breakfast, packed lunch, dinner)
  • Boiled water during the trek (mornings, afternoon, evening and night at campsites)
  • Access to guarantee for helicopter rescue (USD 10,000)*
  • Extensive first aid kit + pulse oximeter + medical oxygen
What is not included?

Hotels, visas to Pakistan and High Altitude Porters (HAPs) for personal equipment. A personal HAP can he hired 4 months in advance, as well as a 1/4 HAP.

Basecamp-Service (USD 150 per day, minimum 10 days):

  • Basecamp, personal tent (single accommodation)
  • Dinning tent and kitchen tent - Pakistani kitchen team
  • Full board at basecamp for max. 20 days (extra day at US$100)
  • Boiled and filtered water at the base camp
  • Kitchen tent and cutlery in basecamp
  • Toilette tent(s) and showering tent
  • Solar power system with battery
  • SAT-phone (charge US$2 per minute and per SMS)

Full-Service (additionally):

  • Very experienced and qualified British, European, or American leader
  • Fixed ropes (aprox. 1,5 km)
  • Fixing gear as pitons and snowpegs
  • High camp tents (3 campsites, C1-C2-C3)
  • Double accommodation in tent at highcamps
  • Camp gear as MSR reactor stoves, pots and gas –
  • Food: noodles, soups, bread and some freeze dried food)
  • HAP: High-altitude porters for group gear (NOT your personal gear)
  • HAP insurance, equipment kit and insurance
  • Emergency packages for highcamps*
  • Emergency oxygen at highcamp*
  • UHF/VHF radios (5 Watts)

Total Full-Service: USD 12,450.

High Attitude: Pakistani guide-porter order Sherpa

Generally the support at high altitude on our Karakoram expeditions is not as high as you might be used from our Nepali SummitClimb expeditions. You might need to support the team more by carrying some of the high altitude gear (stove, personal food).

HAP (High Attitude Porter) – Pakistani – costs: USD 4800.-

Sherpa (personal guide-porter) – costs: USD 9500.-

A Sherpa is more experienced and customer orientated. His costs include travel expenses, expedition costs, his salary and insurance. Please book well in advance so we can support his logistics to join our expedition.

A porter will carry aprox. 20 kg on high way to highcamp. You can share this down to ¼ (5kg) with other members and the group.

Basic Package: -

Organisation of the expedition - climbing permit at reduced rate (60%) - liaison officer - travel costs of liaison officer - Environmental fee Baltistan-Gilgit - Transfer to basecamp and back including. 40 kg personal luggage - Airport pickup in Islamabad - Accommodation 2 nights in Islamabad and 4 nights in Skardu - Half board during the trip from Islamabad to Skardu and back - Drive in Islamabad-Skardu-Islamabad in aircon bus - Trekking to basecamp and back, double accommodation in tent - Full board during the trek (breakfast, packed lunch, dinner) - Boiled water during the trek (mornings, afternoon, evening and night at campsites) - Basecamp, personal tent (single accommodation) - Dinning tent and kitchen tent - Pakistani kitchen team - Full board at basecamp for max. 20 days (extra day at US$100) - Boiled and filtered water at the base camp - cutlery in basecamp - Toilette tent(s) and showering tent - Solar power system with battery - SAT-phone (charge US$2 per minute and per SMS) - Access to guarantee for helicopter rescue (USD 10,000)* - Extensive first aid kit + pulse oximeter + medical oxygen at basecamp

* Additionally our “full-service” expedition includes: -

Very experienced and qualified British, European, or American leader - Fixed ropes (aprox. 1,5 km) - Fixing gear as pitons and snowpegs - High camp tents (3 campsites, C1-C2-C3), double accommodation in tent - Camp gear as MSR reactor stoves, pots and gas - Food (noodles, soups, bread and some freeze dried food) - HAP: High-altitude porters for group gear (NOT your personal gear) - HAP insurance, equipment kit and insurance - Emergency packages for highcamps* - Emergency oxygen at highcamps* - UHF/VHF radios (5 Watts) *We require rescue and medical insurance: Please bring proof and contact numbers! What is not included? International flight, extra Hotel nights, visa to Pakistan, personal equipment and High Altitude Porters (HAPs) for personal equipment, personal spendings (telephone, shopping, etc.).

Flight ISB-Skardu-ISB: The cost is not included. The costs are US$ 150 each way and mandatory to pay on the spot (if the flight happens!). Due to the regulations of the army, the liaison officer is not allowed rot split the group. In any case we have to send the group gear and most of your personal gear by road. You only have 15kg allowance for the local flight and will get the rest of your personal equipment a day later in Skardu. Please budget in these extra US$ 300 in case we can flight

gasherbrum I Itinerary

Day 01 - Arrive Islamabad.

Day 02 - Briefing at Ministry of Tourism. Meeting with LO (Liaison Officer).

Day 03 - Fly to Skardu (1 hr) or drive to Chilas.

Day 04 - Day free at Skardu or drive Chilas – Skardu (8-10 hrs).

Day 05 - Free Day at Skardu for final preparation

gasherbrum I personal team equipment

Below is a detailed list of equipment you need to bring for Gasherbrum and at the bottom is a description of team equipment that we bring for you. (Click Link below to go directly to that section of the personal equipment list or just scroll down):

Climbing-

  • Climbing harness;
  • 5 metres / 15 feet of 6mm climber's accessory cord.
  • Figure 8/Abseil belay device;
  • 1 large mitten sized ascender (most members use the large petzl) and arm length leash;
  • 2 locking carabiners, 1 large and 1 small;
  • 4 regular carabiners;
  • Ice axe w/leash;
  • Crampons - must fit boots perfectly. Steel crampons with anti-balling (anti-bot) plates are the best;
  • Optional; Adjustable trekking poles; back to top

Upper Body-

  • 2 cotton t-shirts;
  • 1 polypropylene t-shirt;
  • 2 long sleeve polypropylene shirts, lightweight;
  • 1 polar fleece pullovers, medium weight;
  • 1 polar fleece jacket.
  • Gore-Tex jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable;
  • Lightweight down jacket for those chilly days in basecamp;
  • For high altitude use, 1 very warm goose-down (duvet) jacket with hood, you may prefer a down/duvet suit; back to top
  • Umbrella (optional);

Hands-

  • 1 pr. lightweight poly-liner gloves. These will be worn when tying knots, but not inside your mitts;
  • 1 pair mittens, consists of 1 Gore-tex over mitt matched with the very warm polar fleece mitt liner (For more about high altitude mitts)

Head-

  • Helmet;
  • Warm hat wool or synthetic that covers your ears;
  • Balaclava;
  • Face mask;
  • Ballcap or brimmed suncap;
  • Glacier sunglasses with side shields (you can purchase these inexpensively in Kathmandu, including prescription sunglasses, which can be made for $20, it might take a week or two);
  • 1 pair ski goggles (Optional) with light and dark lens;
  • Headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs;
  • Bandana or head scarf, also useful for dusty conditions. back to top

Lower Body-

  • Cotton underwear briefs;
  • 1 pair walking shorts;
  • 1 pair walking trousers for trekking and around camp;
  • 2 pair lightweight thermal bottoms;
  • 1 pair medium or expedition weight thermal bottoms;
  • 1 pair polar fleece trousers;
  • 1 pair Gore-Tex trousers, salopettes, or bibs. Waterproof/breathable with full side zips;
  • 1 pr. Goose-down (duvet) trousers , salopettes or bibs. You may prefer a down (duvet) suit.

Your clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags. back to top

Feet-

  • 1 pair One-Sport Millet Everest boots or or similar design(plastic climbing boots are not warm enough, even with over-boots or over-gaiters);
  • 1 pair sturdy leather walking boots with good ankle support (we mean leather trekking, not climbing boots) for the walk to advanced basecamp and to camp 1;
  • 1 pair trainers, running shoes and/or sandals for Kathmandu and in camp;
  • 1 pair down booties (optional);
  • 2 pair med-heavy poly or wool socks;
  • 2- pair of liner socks. Polypropylene or wool;
  • 2 pair lightweight trekking socks, poly or wool;
  • vapour barrier liner socks or plastic bread-bags;
  • Cotton socks for in town.
Sleeping-

  • For high altitude, 1 down (duvet) sleeping bag (rated to – 20 Centigrade or -0 Fahrenheit). In the high camp, you can sleep in your down (duvet) clothing inside your sleeping bag;
  • 1 additional sleeping bag for basecamp (good to -10 degrees C or 10 degrees F);
  • At least 3 closed cell foam kari-mats for use in basecamp and high altitude, We do not recommend inflatable mats, as we have never seen one not puncture. You can buy these non inflatable mats very inexpensively in Kathmandu. Why carry foam mats around the world, when you can purchase them inexpensively in Kathmandu?
Your sleeping bags should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags. back to top

Rucksack and Travel Bags-

  • 1 medium rucksack (50-70 litres / 3000-4500 cubic inches, can be used for airplane carry);
  • Waterproof rucksack cover (optional);
  • 2 large (120 L / 7500 cubic inch) duffle kit bags for clothing and equipment. Must be durable for use on pack animals;
  • Small padlocks for duffel kit bags. back to top

Personal Hygiene-

  • female or male hygiene supplies;
  • 2 tubes lip sun cream, 1 large tube skin sun cream (min.factor 15);
  • anti-mosquito cream;
  • 1 toothpaste/brush;
  • 1 bar soap or hand sanitizer gel/1 small towel;
  • hand wipes. back to top

Medical-

Medications are inexpensive and readily available in Kathmandu with no Doctor`s prescription:

  • small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, first-aid tape, plasters (band-aids), personal medications, etc. The leaders will have extensive first-aid kits, so leave anything extra behind. Please let your leader know about any medical issues before the climb;
  • 1 skin blister repair kit;
  • 1 small bottle anti-diarrhea pills;
  • 1 small bottle anti-headache pills;
  • 1 small bottle cough and/or cold medicine;
  • 1 small bottle anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox, Acetylzolamide.
  • 1 small bottle stomach antibiotic: Ciprofloxacin, etc.;
  • Do not bring sleeping pills. They are a respiratory depressant;
  • 1 small bottle of water purification tablets or water filter;
  • 1 set earplugs;
  • extra prescription glasses, contact lens supplies. Contact lens wearers, please bring glasses in case of emergency. A new pair could be quickly made in Kathmandu, Lhasa, or Kashgar for just $20. Please order upon arrival if you are interested. back to top

Personal Food-

On the mountain we supply plenty of food for you to cook 3 hot meals each day. This food will consist of soup, local cheese & sausage, biscuits, dried noodles, potatoes, rice, porridge, butter, dried and tinned vegetables, fruit, meats, and fish, tea with milk and sugar, powdered juice drink, and drinking chocolate. Our sherpas will be carrying this food to the higher camps.

Our skillful cooks prepare 3 delicious hot meals and plenty of drinks each day in basecamp and advanced basecamp.

  • We ask each member to bring their own imported daily snack and energy foods. We also ask members to bring 3 dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for their summit attempt. We do not provide cold “snack” food such as chocolate or "energy-bars". We ask that you bring or buy your own "snack" or daily cold energy food, 2-5 kilos is a good amount. A growing variety of imported foods such as European and American cheeses, chocolates, biscuits, cookies, nuts, and locally made power-bars are now available in Kathmandu, at realistic prices. However, imported power bars, GU, re-hydration drinks, dehydrated food, "freeze-dried meals", imported cheese and sausage are not available. If you want these items, you must bring them from your home country. Many of our members, especially Britons, Europeans, and Australians with tiny baggage allowances, now purchase their daily snacks in Kathmandu. Our schedule in Kathmandu allows plenty of time for shopping.

Practical- back to top

  • 1 small roll of repair tape, 1 sewing repair kit;
  • 1 cigarette lighter, 1 small box matches;
  • 1 compass or GPS;
  • 1 battery powered alarm clock/watch;
  • 1 camera and film, or digital camera with extra cards and extra batteries;
  • nylon stuff sacks For food and gear storage, large Ziplocs are useful also;
  • 3 Water bottles (1 litre) wide-mouth Nalgene (1 is a pee bottle);
  • 1 plastic cup and spoon;
  • 1 small folding knife;
  • binoculars (optional);
  • 4 large, waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks;
  • passport, 2 extra passport photos, flight ticket, flight itinerary;
  • separate photocopies of passport and relevant visa pages, proof of insurance;
  • dollars, pounds or euros cash for purchasing Nepalese visa at Kathmandu airport, Tibet visa, for paying for restaurants and hotels, for gratuities, snacks, and to purchase your own drinks and gifts. Broad Peak members are requested to bring at least $1000 cash with them to Tibet.
  • credit cards, Bank/ATM/Cash machine cards for use for withdrawing funds from cash machines (bring a photocopy of your cards), traveler's checks, etc.;
  • 1 bathing suit/swimming costume (you never know);
  • basecamp entertainment. It is good to bring additional items which you have found to be useful on previous expeditions. For example: paperback books, playing cards, ipod mp3 player, short-wave radio, game boys, musical instruments, ear plugs, lots of batteries, etc.;
  • travel clothes for basecamp and in town.
  • Please be sure and bring your patience and try to keep an open, relaxed, positive and friendly attitude as travelling in this part of the world may be very different than what you are used to, but things always seem to fall into place at the last moment. Thank you.

This is not an exhaustive list. Please submit other equipment concerns and suggestions. Thank you. back to top

Oxygen:

You should consider whether or not you wish to use supplemental oxygen. About half of our Broad Peak team members do. Its not like Everest where oxygen is absolutely necessary, but some Broad Peak climbers like it because it gives them a little extra edge of "insurance" that they will be feeling as well as possible when resting in the high camp and on summit day, both climbing up to the summit and on descent. In addition, supplemental oxygen usage has been shown to markedly reduce the incidence of frostbite. Our sherpas will try to help you carry the oxygen, and three four-litre bottles should be more than enough, and you also need the mask, hoses, and regulator. Or, you can have the full set of three bottles, which includes mask-regulator-hoses (as well as carriage up to the high camps by our sherpas). All of the equipment is guaranteed to work well together, and it is easy to use, with simple threaded and snap-on fittings which require no tools. We have a 30% buy back policy bottles on unused oxygen, and masks, hoses, and regulators in good condition. For more information about Oxygen, Please click here.

Note: You may have to carry some or all of your own oxygen on summit day, as well as up and down the mountain. If possible, the group sherpas will help stock the high camps, as well as share in carrying extra bottles during summit attempts. If you are concerned you might not be able to carry your own oxygen, you may wish to hire a personal sherpa. back to top

Group Equipment:

We provide a plethora of top-quality, and time-tested equipment, group gear, and supplies, including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection; basecamp, advanced basecamp and altitude tents; cookers, fuel, high-altitude food, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. We now provide an individual tent for each member in basecamp, so you do not have to share. We also have a shower and toilet tent for Basecamp. Please see the group EQUIPMENT link, in the menu bars above to study what we bring for your use and safety. back to top

Please submit any equipment questions or concerns to: info@summitclimb.com

Gasherbrum Expedition Climb US Members Application | SummitClimb

What questions do you have? Please ask as many questions as possible. This helps us to have a proper conversation so we can better understand one-another's expectations, so you will have a very safe, enjoyable, and successful expedition. Thank you. Before completing the application forms, please be sure to carefully study the Gasherbrum 1 "Questions" website for information regarding flights, payment, team members, application forms, insurance, etcetera:

Below you should find a pdf or MS document containing the application pro forma. Are you able to read it? When all of your questions have been answered to your satisfaction, please print out the application and return it to us with your refundable ten-percent deposit, to hold your place in our team. Would you please just post it to us at the mailing address you will find on the form? Thank you very much. If you decide not to go, your deposit will be refunded according to our refund policy. Your registration and the final payment must be completed two months prior to the expedition starting date. Thank you very much.

Click here to download the PDF Form for US Applicants

Click here to download the MS Word Form for US Applicants

If you do not have an Adobe PDF reader, please obtain it here

Here is a checklist of what we need to have in your file at least two months before the trip begins. We encourage you to send an electronic scan of all of the below documents, please be sure they are signed. Thank you:

[ ] Completed Payment. Please restate payments you made and what those payments were for, ie full vs basic, sherpas, oxygen, etc.
[ ] Make your Oxygen order (if any) crystal clear at this time, number of bottles, masks, payment, etc.
[ ] Make your Sherpa order (if any) crystal clear at this time, personal sherpa, quarter sherpa, payment, etc.
[ ] Trip Registration Form (part of 4 page form),
[ ] Signed Participant Release and Acknowledgement of Risk (part of 4 page form),
[ ] Signed Terms and Conditions of Booking (part of 4 page form),
[ ] Signed Medical Form (part of 4 page form),
[ ] 1 Passport sized photo, which is a simple, very clear picture of your face, sent as an email scan. (We simply require a picture of your face against a white background. You can take it yourself for free with your own digital camera or smart phone),
[ ] Exact photocopy of passport identification pages,
[ ] Exact photocopy of complete flight itinerary,
[ ] Proof of mountain rescue and repatriation insurance,
[ ] Proof of travel, accident, and repatriation insurance (cancellation and trip interruption insurance is advised).

Please do let us know what further questions you may have about the registration process, or anything else for that matter. Thank you.

Welcome to our team.

Gasherbrum Climb International Members Application | SummitClimb

What questions do you have? Please ask as many questions as possible. This helps us to have a proper conversation so we can better understand one-another's expectations, so you will have a very safe, enjoyable, and succesful expedition. Thank you. Before completing the application forms, please be sure to carefully study the Gasherbrum 1 "Questions" website for information regarding flights, payment, team members, application forms, insurance, etcetera:
 
Below you should find a pdf or MS document containing the application pro forma. Are you able to read it? When all of your questions have been answered to your satisfaction, please print out the application and return it to us with your refundable ten-percent deposit, to hold your place in our team. Would you please just post it to us at the mailing address you will find on the form? Thank you very much. If you decide not to go, your deposit will be refunded according to our refund policy. Your registration and the final payment must be completed two months prior to the expedition starting date. Thank you very much.

Here is a checklist of what we need to have in your file at least two months before the trip begins. We encourage you to send an electronic scan of all of the below documents, please be sure they are signed. Thank you:

[ ] Completed Payment. Please restate payments you made and what those payments were for, ie full vs basic, sherpas, oxygen, etc.
[ ] Make your Oxygen order (if any) crystal clear at this time, number of bottles, masks, payment, etc.
[ ] Make your Sherpa order (if any) crystal clear at this time, personal sherpa, quarter sherpa, payment, etc.
[ ] Trip Registration Form (part of 4 page form),
[ ] Signed Participant Release and Acknowledgement of Risk (part of 4 page form),
[ ] Signed Terms and Conditions of Booking (part of 4 page form),
[ ] Signed Medical Form (part of 4 page form),
[ ] 1 Passport sized photo, which is a simple, very clear picture of your face, sent as an email scan. (We simply require a picture of your face against a white background. You can take it yourself for free with your own digital camera or smart phone),
[ ] Exact photocopy of passport identification pages,
[ ] Exact photocopy of complete flight itinerary,
[ ] Proof of mountain rescue and repatriation insurance,
[ ] Proof of travel, accident, and repatriation insurance (cancellation and trip interruption insurance is advised).

Please do let us know what further questions you may have about the registration process, or anything else for that matter. Thank you.
 
Welcome to our team.

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