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Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world at 8551 meters (27,923 feet), and is unique in that it is climbed from virtually the same route as Mount Everest.The route to camp 4 is the same as that of Tenzing and Hillary's first ascent route of Everest in 1953, and the dates we have chosen feature the best weather of the year. Join our team on one of the most beautiful and iconic climbs anywhere in the world!
Our full-service expedition includes:
What is not included?
Our basic climb includes:
Add on High Attitude Support : Click here for prices
1) Arrive in Kathmandu, 1300 meters (4,265 feet). Stay at hotel.
2) Orientation meeting and chance to buy last minute supplies, visit temples, and tour the city. Stay at hotel.
3) Fly to Lukla, 2860 meters (9,385 feet). Walk to Phakding 2650 meters (8,695 feet). Teahouse or camping
4) Walk to Namche Bazaar, 3450 meters (11,320 feet). Teahouse or camping
5) Rest day with acclimatization hike in Namche. Teahouse or camping
6) Walk to Pangboche, 3750 meters (12,300 feet). Participate in a Buddhist Puja blessing ceremony with the local Lama at the monastery if you wish. Teahouse or camping
7) Walk to Pheriche, 4250 meters (13,945 feet). Visit the Himalayan Rescue Association health clinic. Teahouse or camping
8) Walk to Dugla, 4600 meters (15,090 feet). Teahouse or camping
9) Walk to Lobuche, 4900 meters (16,075 feet). Teahouse of camping
10) Walk to GorakShep, 5150 meters (16,900 feet). Teahouse or camping
11) Walk to basecamp, 5340 meters (17,400 feet). Camping
12) Rest, organization, and training day in basecamp
13) Rest, organization, and training day in basecamp
14) Walk to Pumori basecamp, 5300 meters (17,390 feet). Sleep there.
15) Walk to Pumori ABC, 5700 meters (18,700 feet). Return to Everest basecamp.
16) Rest in basecamp.
17) Acclimatization trek to the top of Kala Patthar, 5644 meters (18,520’). Return to basecamp
18) Rest in basecamp.
19) Climb to camp 1 at 6100 meters (20,010 feet). Sleep at camp 1.
20) Climb to camp 2 at 6400 meters (21,000 feet). Return to camp 1, sleep there.
21) Return to basecamp,
22) Rest in basecamp.
23) Rest in basecamp.
24) Climb to camp 1. Sleep there.
25) Climb to camp 2. Sleep there.
26) Rest in camp 2.
27) Climb to camp 3, 7300 meters (23,950 feet). Return to camp 2, sleep there.
28) Return to basecamp.
29) Rest in basecamp.
30) Rest in basecamp.
31) Climb to camp 1, sleep there.
32) Climb to camp 2. Sleep there.
33) Rest in camp 2.
34) Climb to camp 3. Sleep there.
35) Descend to camp 1 or camp 2. Sleep there.
36) Return to basecamp.
37) Rest in basecamp or descend to a lower village such as GorakShep.
38) Return to basecamp from lower village. Rest in basecamp.
39) Climb to camp 1, sleep there.
40) Climb to camp 2, sleep there.
41) Climb to camp 3, sleep there.
42) Climbto camp 4, 8000 meters (26,245 feet). Sleep there.
43) Attempt summit.
44) Return to camp 2, sleep there.
45) Return to basecamp.
46) Rest in basecamp.
47) Climb to camp 2, sleep there.
48) Climb to camp 3, sleep there.
49) Climb to camp 4, sleep there.
50) Attempt summit.
51) Return to camp 2.
52) Return to basecamp.
53) Pack up basecamp.
54) Trek down to Pheriche. Teahouse or camping.
55) Trek down toPangboche. Teahouse or camping.
56) Trek to Namche. Teahouse or camping.
57) Trek to Lukla. Teahouse or camping.
58) Flight to Kathmandu. Stay at hotel.
59) Extra day in Kathmandu, in case of delay, and for sightseeing, gift shopping. Hotel.
60) Fly Home. Thanks for joining our expedition!
Yellow tower and camp 3
Leadership: Dan Mazur and Don Wargowsky are relaxed, friendly, well organized, and highly skilled professional with over 30 years combined experience leading people to the summits of mountains such as Everest, Lhotse, K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Manaslu, Shishapangma, AmaDablam, and Baruntse
Sherpas: We employ some of Nepal, Tibet, and the Karakorum’s best local mountaineers and Sherpas to assist team members in realizing their summit goals. Our friendly and loyal high altitude climbing staff has supported teams to the summits of more than ten of the highest peaks in the Himalaya.
Winter snow walking experience and experience at high altitude is highly recommended. The trip includes brief climbing clinics. We will teach you everything you need to know on glacier near basecamp. To be successful, proper conditioning is critical to your success on Lhotse. Team members are expected to be very fit and in good health. Proper training with a focus on long hikes carrying a backpack is essential.
Rucksack and Travel Bags:
We provide group gear, equipment, and supplies including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection, tents; stoves, fuel, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. A personal tent will be provided for each member at base camp. On the upper mountain, team members will share tents. In base camp, a shower, toilet, solar charger, and a dining tent will be provided.
Your trip includes 2 free Kathmandu hotel nights at the beginning and two free Kathmandu hotel nights at the end of the trip. You will be sharing. If you do not wish to share, you can pay an extra $20 for a single room (during any of the included 4 nights). If you want a room for extra nights, outside of the included 4 nights, the price will be $30 (single room). Price includes good delicious breakfast and mandatory 25% Nepal government tax and government service charge. Meals in Kathmandu (other than breakfast) are at your expense. Please bring cash (credit cards are rarely accepted) to pay for your expenses and extra nights and / or your single supplement. We often stay at the comfortable three star Hotel Shakti. Its an excellent and classic hotel surrounded by green gardens and located in the heart of the city action near many delicious restaurants, the city's best mountain equipment shopping, and abundant nightlife all within a few minutes walk. The Shakti Hotel also offers lots of entertaining day trip (and night outing) options such as city tours, walking tours, rock climbing, mountain biking, wild game safaris, horse back riding, art classes, volunteer opportunities at orphanages, hospitals, schools, women's centres, bird watching, cooking classes, sport fishing, day peak climbing, herbal medicine seminars, day hikes, pottery classes, car tours, sightseeing, temple tours, henna handpainting classes, health spas, massage, swimming, beauty spas and hair stylist salons, motorbiking, yoga courses and retreats, river rafting, painting, sculpture, and handicrafts classes, golf, language courses, kayaking, writing seminars, poetry workshops, bungie jumping, all types of religious worship, canyoning, hot tubs, health club, saunas, fitness center, ayurvedic spa treatments, Mount Kailash Treks, night clubs, meditation retreats, gourmet restaurants, cultural dance performances, wine tasting, pedicures and manicures, casino gambling, barber shops, discotheques, dance clubs, airport transfers, Scenic Flights Around Mount Everest, dance classes, cooking classes, sampling micro brews, trying Nepalese Cuisine, handicrafts and carpet shopping, looking for good deals on outdoor gear, climbing gear and trekking gear, "designer" clothing, and watches, and much much more.
On the trek to basecamp we stay in rustic teahouses or camp, at the organizers expense, so you do not have to pay. Here is some text from the Lhotse itinerary page :
Trek to Basecamp:
4) Walk to Namche Bazaar (3,450 metres/11,300 feet). Teahouse or camping.
5) Rest and acclimatization in Namche. Teahouse or camping.
6) Walk to Pangboche (3,750 metres/12,300 feet). Teahouse or camping.
7) Walk to Pheriche (4,250 metres/13,900 feet). Visit the Himalayan Rescue Association health clinic. Teahouse or camping.
8) Walk to Dugla (4,600 metres/15,100 feet). Teahouse or camping.
All of our team members cook their own food unless they have a personal sherpa to cook for them. For more about personal sherpas, please click here .
We provide you with a special high altitude stove and fuel canisters. Our stoves are of the "hanging" type, designed to be used inside the tent (well ventilated of course). We have found these to be the best possible stoves for high altitude use, as it is essential to cook inside the tent during stormy weather. Our stoves are suspended above the floor so you have room to sit comfortably and warmly in your sleeping bag while cooking.
Our high altitude fuel is of two types. Above 7000 metres/23,000 feet we use imported propane/butane 250 gramme canisters. Below 7000 metres/23,000 feet we refill the canisters with propane gas. Liquid fuel does not work above 6000 metres/19,700 feet so we don't use liquid fuel above basecamp or advanced basecamp.
We have a satellite telephone members can use for incoming and outgoing calls for $4 a minute. In addition, members can receive short text messages/SMS for $4 a message from their friends and family.
SummitClimb has a local agent in Nepal available from 9:00 a.m.-9:00 p.m. Nepal time. Family and friends can contact our agent and have their emergency messages relayed to members on the mountain during the expedition.
Laptops work well up to about 4000 metres/13,000 feet. Altitude can destroy or wipe hard drives bigger than 7 - 10 GB above this altitude, or hard drives that have a moving disk. There are several options out on the market for non moving hard drives that work well in altitude. Panasonic make a special laptop called a "Toughbook"; it is expensive, but I once chipped one out of the ice in a tent at 7500 metres and it still worked.
Note: Some early ipod and mp3 players have this problem as well. Check to make sure your ipod does not have a moving drive, especially before you turn it on above 4000 metres. We have had several instances where these were wiped or crashed.Digital cameras work well. We recommend that you keep them in your jacket during the day and in your sleeping bag at night.
We bring a solar charging system on the expedition that members have access to. As long as there is sun, we are able to charge batteries easily on the mountain.
Bring the "wall charger" for your appliance and if possible, please bring an automotive 12 volt charger for your laptop, digital cameras, ipod, and mp3 players, as you can plug it straight into our solar system.
"Full Service" expeditions feature almost every imaginable service. "Basic-Climbs" feature the lowest possible prices. Please read down through the questions to learn more.
NOTE: Our Basic climb is open to groups of two or more. We welcome you to join the basic-climb as an individual and hire a climbing sherpa or join our full-service programme. Our full service climbs are open to members joining as individuals and groups of two or more. If you wish to save money, we encourage you to pick and choose the services you want and need from a "menu" you can see listed under "what the basic-climb includes" on the "cost" page. Once you are inside the Lhotse "cost" page, scroll down to see the three available options, "trekking to/from basecamp", "basecamp" and "high altitude".
NOTE: Our Basic climb is open to groups of two or more. We welcome you to join the basic-climb as an individual and hire a climbing sherpa or join our full-service programme. Our full service climbs are open to members joining as individuals and groups of two or more. If you wish to save money, we encourage you to pick and choose the services you want and need from a "menu" you can see listed under "what the basic-climb includes" on the "cost" page for Lhotse on the upper right hand side of this site. Once you are inside the Lhotse "cost" page, scroll down to see the three available options, "trekking to/from basecamp", "basecamp" and "high altitude".
If you want us to arrange your baggage, then the cost is as follows (must be payed in advance):
Baggage UP from Kathmandu to Lukla $3/kilo above 15 kilos. (only 3 kilo is allowed as hand carry (MORE THAN 3 KILO WILL NOT BE ALLOWED AS HAND CARRY).
Baggage UP from Lukla to Basecamp: $10/kilo for everything you will not carry on your back (PLEASE DO NOT CARRY A HEAVY BACK PACK DURING THE TREK, OR YOU WILL BECOME TIRED AND NOT ACCLIMATIZE PROPERLY).
Baggage DOWN from Basecamp to Lukla: $4/kilo for everything you will not carry on your back.
Baggage DOWN from Lukla to Kathmandu: $3/kilo above 15 kilos. (only 3 kilo is allowed as hand carry (MORE THAN 3 KILO WILL NOT BE ALLOWED AS HAND CARRY)
ABOVE COSTS MUST BE PAYED IN ADVANCE NOW WITH YOUR BOOKING.
• Trekking to/from basecamp: porters, staff, meals, camping, and round trip flight KTM-Lukla, $2950 USD.
• Basecamp: kitchen, cooks, meals, sleeping tents, dining tent, tables and chairs, $4950 USD.
• High Altitude: leaders, sherpas, tents, ropes, radios, stoves, fuel, food, etcetera, $2950 USD.
• Climbing oxygen: High-altitude Lhotse climbing oxygen set (mask, regulator, and 5 large Russian 4 litre bottles, guaranteed to be in proper working order and function perfectly together): $3500 USD.
Private Sherpa - $7,850
Personal Equipment carriage - $1,960
A complete, five bottle set of oxygen is included in the full service price. Additional bottles of oxygen can be purchased in advance. Basic climb members may purchase oxygen supplies at the following prices:
* 5 bottle set, mask, regulator, hoses, and carriage to high camps: $3,500 USD
* Extra Oxygen bottle: $610 USD
* Mask and hoses: $285 USD
* Regulator: $485
(unused oxygen bottles and supplies in good condition can be sold back for 30% of purchase price)
Please book well in advance.
Please fill out an application and return it to us with your refundable ten-percent deposit to hold your place on the team.
In addition to your application, we will need the following at least two months before the trip begins:
Please contact us with any questions you may have.
Sun rise at camp 3 and climbers reaching camp 3. Photo Samuli
Here is what Josette from Arolla, Switzerland has to say:
"The style of the organization and the ambiance inside the group were good. I liked the determination of the members and to be in a smaller group was nice. The leader was perfect, giving us lots of liberty and confidence. He always waited for the latest one on the mountain and climbed with them."
Here is what Herman, the first Dutchman to summit Lhotse has to say:
"It's incredible to be the first Dutchman to summit Mount Lhotse.
Going through the couloir was demanding and very interesting. It seemed endless until the the last few metres when I reached the top, and then it was amazing. I felt breathless up there. The view was spectacular and the weather was perfect.
You use a lot of energy to reach the summit, but the real enjoyment comes when you think about it later. It was an amazing feeling to look all around at panoramic view of the Himalaya. Summiting Lhotse is a great feeling that no one can ever take away from me. It will be with me all of my life."
Here is what Roger from Berkshire, UK has to say:
"Thank you for all of your efforts. I hugely enjoyed the trip and the company and of course the summit."
Here is what Arnold from the Netherlands says.
Here is what Arnold from the Netherlands says.
"It’s a full service expedition with everything taken care of. Or you can go in simple style with the basic climb.
It’s follows alongside the famous Hillary first ascent route.
It’s a less expensive way to get up close to Everest, as the Lhotse route and Everest route are identical up to the high camp.
Our leaders are very team focused, dedicated and hard working, with attention to the member needs and detail of organising.
Our teams are focused on letting each member go at his/her own pace with support from our leaders and sherpas.
We have excellent staff and Sherpas.
Our equipment is strong and plentiful.
The trek in is lush and beautiful.
We have excellent medical kits, gamow bag, emergency oxygen and experience.
The basecamp food is excellent with plenty of hot drinks.
The Khumbu icefall is always changing and crossing all of those ladders over crevasses is challenging..
The route is warmer up to high camp. Then its very windy.
Our teams are focused on letting each member go at his/her own pace with support from our leaders and sherpas."