Ama Dablam Climb Expedition – Nepal

Ama Dablam : Our full-service expedition includes:

• British, European, and American leader
• Expert climbing Sherpas for the group (personal Sherpas available upon request)
• Full service trek to base camp with all teahouses and all meals
• Round trip return flights for you and your gear from KTM-Lukla and Lukla to KTM
• Personal equipment check in KTM and guided shopping trips for renting/hiring and purchasing
• Meeting you at the airport and airport transfer to the hotel
• Yak transport of all equipment to and from basecamp
• Skillful base camp cooks
• Three meals each day, on trek, in basecamp, and at high altitude above basecamp
• Group emergency equipment, medical equipment and satellite phone
• Private tents in basecamp (no sharing)
• Comfortable base camp with dining mess tent, tables and chairs, showers, bathroom, and solar charger
• Guided training on cliffs and glaciers around basecamp
• All ropes, tents and high altitude climbing equipment.
• Full high altitude service to the summit and back
• All permit fees and liaison officers
• Two nights stay in a good quality comfortable Kathmandu hotel on arrival and two nights prior to departure in a double room. Private rooms are available for a small additional fee.

What is not included?

• International flights to/from Kathmandu
• Mountain climbing rescue and travel insurance
• Personal climbing equipment and clothing
• Gratuities for staff
• Nepalese visa

Add on High Attitude Support : Click here for prices

• Private Sherpa (personal guide/porter) – Carries up to 10 kg (22bs) of your personal equipment, climbs with you, melts water, cooks, and will be with you every step of the way.
• Personal equipment carriage service – Sherpa carry up to 10kg (22lbs) of personal equipment up and down the mountain between camps

Ama Dablam : Our Basic Climb Includes :

• British, European, or American leader
• All permit fees and liaison officer
• A walkie-talkie radio
• Emergency equipment and supplies
• Access to team fixed ropes and camps (sites, not tents)
• Airport transfers
• Two nights stay in a Kathmandu hotel on arrival and two nights prior to departure in a double room. Private rooms are available for a small additional fee.
• Other services and may be purchased and hired at minimal expense

1) Arrive Kathmandu, Nepal, 1,300 metres (4,265 feet). Stay at hotel.
2) Orientation day, equipment checking, gear shopping and sightseeing in Kathmandu. Stay at hotel.
3) Fly to Lukla, 2,900 metres (9,514 feet). Easy short walk to Phakding, 2,550 metres (8,366 feet). Beautiful day of light trekking. Sleep in teahouse.
4) Walk to Namche Bazaar, 3,440 metres (11,286 feet). Lovely forest trek over suspension bridges. This big village is the capital of the Sherpa people. Sleep in teahouse.
5) Rest & Acclimatization in Namche. Teahouse.
6) Walk to Pangboche 3,860 metres (12,644 feet). Famous Everest base camp trekking route with many lodges and restaurants and beautiful scenery of Mt. Ama Dablam. Teahouse.
7) Walk to Base Camp 4,570 metres (14,989 feet). Beautiful Ama Dablam basecamp is on grassy meadows. Camp.
8) Rest & Acclimatization, Sherpa prayer ceremony (puja).
9) Equipment check and fixed rope training day on small cliffs near base camp.
10) Walk to advanced basecamp, 5,350 metres (17,552 feet). Easy walking on paths. Sleep there.
11) Hike to camp 1, 5,700 metres (18,701 feet). A bit of rockhopping in a boulder field, followed by short easy low angle scramble to C1. Return to basecamp.
12) Rest and acclimatization in basecamp.
13) Walk to Camp 1. Sleep there.
14) Rest in Camp 1.
15) Climb to camp 2, 5,900 metres (19,357 feet). Easy climbing to C2 is on good solid granite, using fixed ropes. Return to basecamp.
16) Rest in basecamp.
17) Rest in basecamp.
18) Walk to Camp 1.
19) Climb to Camp 2.
20) Wake up in the night, eat "breakfast" and attempt the summit: 6,812 metres (22,349 feet). Summit attempt involves easy snow climbing with a bit of simple mixed rock just above C2. Return and sleep in C2.
21) Extra day for summit attempt.
22) Downclimb and walk down to basecamp.
23) Pack up and descend to Pangboche village. Sleep in teahouse.
24) Walk down to Namche Bazaar. Teahouse.
25) Walk down from Namche to Lukla. Teahouse.
26) Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu.
27) Extra day in Kathmandu, in case of delay, and for sightseeing, gift shopping, celebration, saying goodbye to new friends. Stay in hotel.
28) Fly home.

Leadership: Dan Mazur is a relaxed, friendly, well organized, and highly skilled professional with over 20 years of experience leading people to the summits of Everest, K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Manaslu, Shishapangma and Baruntse.

Sherpas: We employ some of Nepal, Tibet, and the Karakorum’s best local mountaineers and Sherpas to assist team members in realizing their summit goals. Our friendly and loyal high altitude climbing staff has supported teams to the summits of more than ten of the highest peaks in the Himalaya.

Climbing:

• Climbing harness
• 5 meters (16 ft.) of 6mm accessory cord
• Figure 8 abseil/belay device (tube style devices, i.e. ATC will not work on fixed lines)
• Full size ascender (i.e. PetzlAscention)
• 2 locking carabiners, 1 large and 1 small
• 4 non-locking carabiners
• Ice axe with leash
• Steel crampons with anti-balling plates
• Trekking poles
• Abseiling/Rappelling Gloves

Upper Body:

• 2 cotton t-shirts
• 2 synthetic t-shirts
• 2 long sleeve synthetic shirts
• Light-weight soft shell jacket
• Medium weight insulatingjacket (fleece, down, or synthetic)
• Hard shell jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable (Gore-Tex or similar)
• Heavy down coat
   
  • For 6,000m peaks a very warm down coat with hood or an 8,000m coat with hood
  • For 7,000m peaks an 8,000m coat with hood
  • For 8,000m peaks an 8,000m down coat with hood or an 8,000m suit can be used instead

Hands:

• Lightweight poly-liner gloves
• Mid-weight soft shell gloves – water/wind resistant
• Heavy- weight waterproof gloves – Gore-tex shell with removable liner
• Expedition weight mittens -Gore-tex over mitt matched polar fleece mitt liner

Head:

• Helmet
• Warm hat that covers your ears
• Balaclava
• Face mask
• Baseball hat or brimmed sun hat
• Glacier sunglasses with side shields
• Ski goggles with light and dark lenses
• Headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs
• Buff/neck gaiter
• Bandana or head scarf (optional)

Lower Body:

• Synthetic underwear
• Hiking shorts
• Hiking pants
• 2 pair lightweight thermal bottoms
• Medium or expedition weight thermal bottoms
• Polar fleece or soft shell pants
• Waterproof/breathable pants with full side zips (Gore-Tex or similar)
• Heavy insulating pants
   
  • For 6,000m peaks: Down or synthetic pants will full zips
  • For 7,000m peaks: 8,000m down pants
  • For 8,000m peaks: 8,000m down pants or a 8,000m suit can be used instead

Feet:

• Boots
   
  • For 6,000m peaks: Plastic or composite double boots (Koflach, La SportivaSpantik, etc) Modern waterproof, single boots designed for 4-5,000m peaks may be suitable if they can be worn with 2 pairs of socks and vapor barrier lines and/or they are equipped with overboots
  • For 7,000m: Plastic or composite double boots (Koflach, La SportivaSpantik, etc)
  • For 8,000m peaks: 8,000m boots - One-Sport Millet Everest boots or equivalent
     
• Sturdy leather walking boots
• Trainers, running shoes and/or sandals
• Down booties (optional)
• 3 pair med-heavy poly or wool socks
• 2 pair poly or wool liner socks (optional)
• Vapor barrier liner socks (optional)
• 2 pair lightweight trekking socks
• Cotton socks for in town

Sleeping:

• Down sleeping bag
   
  • For 6,000m peaks: -18C or 0F
  • For 7,000m peaks:-23C or -10F (If you sleep cold consider -29C or -20F)
  • For 8,000m peaks: -29C or -20F (If you sleep cold consider -40C or -40F)
     
• An additional down sleeping bag for basecamp for the following climbs: Everest, Lhotse, AmaDablam, Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I and II, Spantik, K2/Broad Peak Everest training climb. For Mastagata a second sleeping bag is optional, but highly recommended.
   
  • Down base camp sleeping bag should be rated to -10C or 15F (If you sleep cold consider -18C or 0F)
     
• 2 closed cell foam kari-mats (sleeping pads) for use in basecamp and high altitude (these can be purchased inexpensively in Kathmandu)
• High quality inflatable sleeping pad designed for cold weather (Thermarest)
• Patch kit for inflatable pad

Rucksack and Travel Bags:

• Medium rucksack/backpack (50-70 litres / 3000-4500 cubic inches, can be used as carry-on bag)
• Waterproof rucksack cover (optional)
• 2 large (120+ L / 7500+ cubic inch) duffle kit bags for clothing and equipment
• Small luggage locks for duffel kit bags

Personal Hygiene:

• Female or male hygiene supplies
• 2 tubes lip sun cream
• Large tube skin sun cream (min factor 30)
• Anti-mosquito cream
• Toothpaste/brush
• Hand sanitizer gel (small-medium bottle)
• Bar of soap small towel
• Hand wipes
• Face Mask
• Hand sanitiser
• Disposable gloves
• Disinfectant wipes

Medical:

• Small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, first-aid tape, plasters (band-aids), personal medications, etc.
• Blister repair kit
• 10 anti-diarrhea pills
• 20 anti-headache pills
• 10 cough and/or cold medicine
• Anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox, Acetylzolamide
• 10 Stomach antibiotics: Ciprofloxacin, etc.
• 5 Azithromycin tables
• Steri pen or bottle of water purification tablets
• Cough sweets/lozenges (Halls/Stepils)
• Earplugs
• Extra prescription glasses/contact lenses and supplies

Personal Food:

• Snack food/daily energy food
   
  • Everest training Nepal/Tibet, AmaDablam, Baruntse: 2-4kg (4.5-9lbs)
  • Spantik, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Mustagata, Manasu: 2-5kg (4.5-11lbs)
  • Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I/II, K2/Everest training, Everest, Lhotse: 3-6kg (6.5-13lbs)
     
• Dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for summit attempt
   
  • Everest training Nepal/Tibet, AmaDablam: 2 meals
  • Spantik, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Mustagata, Manasu, Baruntse: 3 meals
  • Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I/II, K2/Everest training, Everest, Lhotse: 5 meals

• Small roll of repair tape
• Sewing repair kit
• Cigarette lighter
• Small box matches
• Compass or GPS
• Battery powered alarm clock/watch
• Camera with extra cards and extra batteries
• Nylon stuff sacks for food and gear storage
• 2 water bottles (1 litre) wide-mouth Nalgene
• Pee bottle (1litre or larger)
• Plastic cup and spoon
• Small folding knife
• Binoculars (optional)
• 4 large, waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks
• Passport, 2 extra passport photos, flight ticket, flight itinerary
• Separate photocopies of passport and relevant visa pages, proof of insurance
• Dollars, pounds, or euros cash
• Bank/ATM/Cash and credit cards
• Bathing suit/swim suit (you never know)
• Paperback books, playing cards, ipod/mp3 player, musical instruments, extra batteries, etc.
• Travel clothes for basecamp and in town
• Umbrella (optional)
• Small solar panels for personal electronics (optional)

Group Equipment:

We provide group gear, equipment, and supplies including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection, tents; stoves, fuel, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. A personal tent will be provided for each member at base camp. On the upper mountain, team members will share tents. In base camp, a shower, toilet, solar charger, and a dining tent will be provided

Extensive experience is not required for climbing Ama Dablam. We will conduct extensive climbing training on cliffs near basecamp. Members will be fit and it would be good to have knowledge of roped climbing and descending techniques. It is not necessary for members to know how to lead climb, as our very experienced leaders and Sherpas fix the ropes.

To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active winter-walker-climber in good health. Prior to joining our group, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in extremes of altitude, and also for exotic locales.

Please fill out an application and return it to us with your refundable ten-percent deposit to hold your place on the team.

• Ama Dablam Application for US Team Members : PDF Form or MS Word Doc

• Ama Dablam Application for all other Team Members :  PDF Form or MS Word Doc
   

In addition to your application, we will need the following at least two months before the Ama Dablam trip begins:

• Completed Payment
• Oxygen order (if any)
• Sherpa order (if any)
• Trip Registration form
• 1 Passport sized photo
• A scan of your passport identification pages
• Complete flight itinerary
• Proof of travel, accident, and repatriation insurance. We strongly recommend Global Rescue, with at least $50,000 worth of helicopter rescue insurance.
• Trip cancellation/interruption insurance is recommended

Please contact us with any questions you may have.