NEWS and PHOTOS of our May 2022 EXPEDITION to Everest Nepal Summit - Lhotse Summit and Everest Training Climb
NEWS and PHOTOS of our May 2022 EXPEDITION to Everest Nepal Summit - Lhotse Summit and Everest Training Climb
We had a fine expedition this year. On Everest, our 12 members summited with 17 Sherpas. We had 3 members on the summit of Lhotse with 3 Sherpas, and 5 members did the Everest Camp 3 Training Climb. The weather was phenomenal with many summit windows. We would like to CONGRATULATE everyone and thanks to the members, leaders, Sherpas and all of those who helped, ESPECIALLY the family members, sponsors, friends and colleagues. We could not have done this without you. Our places are already filling for 2023 Everest Summit Climb, 2023 Lhotse Climb, and 2023 Everest Camp 3 Training Climb. Welcome to our team! If you would like to join, please do get in touch at firstname.lastname@example.org .
Please scroll down for latest news and photos.
Ms. Hong at the summit of Everest. Eric at the summit of Everest.
David, Adam, and Morgan at the Summit.
Ad Jones at the Summit
Claudiu and Adam are at the summit of Everest
Everest team are at the Summit of Everest
Photo Caption: Alex and Sherpa are at the summit of Everest. From the south summit coming down, very quiet!
Photo Caption : Alex at the summit of Everest. Photo Caption : At the summit of Everest whereas some are almost there.
Zac and Lakpa at Everest Summit
Paul and Gelbu at Lhotse Summit
May 27 - Everest News - All members are safely down from the mountain; 12 member summits and 15 Sherpa summits. A new SummitClimb record. Now begins the hard work of cleaning up the mountain. Please watch these Scary videos by Dr. Abhyu!
Our amazing sherpa Lakpa Gyelu hanging abseil at the famous Khumbu Ice fall.
Our amazing Sherpa Guru Nima descending through the Khumbu ice fall ladders. Filmed by Karma Sherpa
Video caption- These videos are taken while descending through camp 3.
May 21 - A Fresh News Update From Everest SummitClimb:
Now that the team has summited, all members and Sherpas are coming down to the South Col. Due to being too tired to go on, some will overnight on the South Col (and then descend in the morning), while others will go down further, to camps 2 and 3. We want to congratulate them on a very good job. Well Done Team! Also, the weather has deteriorated and it is snowing and windy. Everyone, Please Be Extremely Careful On The Way Down!!!
South col video by Mark Guido
Big News. One of our members has reached the summit without use of supplemental oxygen! Please be very safe going down!!!
Update from SummitClimb: Now 8 members are on the summit with 8 Sherpas. CONGRATULATIONS! One member and one Sherpa are Still below the summit, coming up slowly. We send them all thoughts and prayers of encouragement and hope they will make it!
Breaking News from Everest Summit Climb: 2 members and 2 sherpas summited at 5:44am. Now 3 more members and 3 Sherpas just reached the summit
Photo from Eric.
May 20 - SummitClimb Team on South Col. Trying for Everest Summit Tonight:
The SummitClimb team is in place on Everest South Col (camp 4). 9 members and 9 Sherpas. They reached South Col last night, after a challenging climb up from Camp 3. Today they rested on the South Col, eating, drinking, and napping. It was windy on the Col today, mainly due to the venturi effect. Tonight’s forecast calls for winds dropping to 5 Kph, so our team plans to take advantage of it and head out for the summit after dinner. We shall keep you updated as soon as we hear more. Thanks for following our expedition and sending our thoughts and prayers to the team!
Claud at Lhotse summit background The Everest. Yellow Band
South col. Sherpa at Icefall.
View from summit
May 16 - LHOTSE Dispatch: Amazing News! Our member just summited Lhotse at 730am this morning with his awesome Sherpa. This is incredible because the same people Just Summited Everest Yesterday! So they achieved the true "double header of Nepal", climbing to the top of Everest yesterday, and then to the summit of Lhotse today. Wow. CONGRATULATIONS!!!! now they are on their way down and let's all wish them a very safe descent.
May 16 - EVEREST Dispatch: Good News! Another one of our Everest members and Sherpas reached Everest Summit this morning at 3am. Congratulations!!! Now they are coming down. We wish them a very safe descent. By the way, the next part of our team, including 7 members and 7 Sherpas, left base camp this morning at 1:30 am. They are also heading for Everest summit, planning to reach the top of the world in 4 days from now. Please keep checking back for current updates!
May 15 - dispatch: Big congratulations to our member and Sherpa who reached the summit of Everest at 3:30 am. Also, super congratulations to our other member and 2 Sherpas who reached the summit of Lhotse at 8:00 am. Good job team! Everyone stay tuned for more summits.
May 14 - EVEREST Dispatch: three of our Everest members and 3 Sherpas are now in Everest High Camp. They plan to begin their ascent to the summit of Everest at 7pm, which is just a few hours from now. We wish them all of the best and will keep you updated.
May 14 - LHOTSE Dispatch: one of our Lhotse members and 2 Sherpas are now in Lhotse High Camp. They plan to begin their ascent to the summit of Lhotse at midnight. We wish them all of the best and will keep you updated.
May 13 - dispatch: Today our 4 Sherpas and 4 members climbed to Camp 3 in the Lhotse Face, elevation 7200 metres. The climbing and weather conditions were very good and the team is resting well, preparing for tomorrow's ascent to Camp 4. The summit is getting close now and everyone is very excited!
May 12 - dispatch. Our Everest, Lhotse and Everest plus Lhotse team are resting in C2 after a challenging ascent yesterday. The Sherpas are stocking all upper camps with oxygen, food, fuel, tents, etc. Its a hard job but the weather is good: sunny with light winds!
May 11 - dispatch: 2 am. We are heading for the summits of: a) Everest, b) Lhotse, and c) Everest plus Lhotse. Weather is very clear and perfect.Please wish us luck. Thank you very much.
May 10 - dispatch: Our oxygenless team tested their lungs against the heights of Everest today. Leaving C3 at 3:00 am, our 2 foreign members using no oxygen and our 2 Sherpas using and carrying extra oxygen, climbed through the granite stripes of the yellow band, enjoying the snow traversing and moderate rock scrambling on good strong ropes. The winds were mild, even though the weather forecast had warned otherwise. After topping the yellow band (with almost no other climbers around by the way) we proceeded to traverse toward Lhotse high camp and cross the top of the Geneva Spur. While climbing the long stair steppy traverse up to the crest of the spur, winds actually picked up a bit. We crossed the ridge and walked into the south col (camp 4), where there were many tents and the wind was really cooking now with a lot of blowing and flapping nylon. Now the high wind forecast seemed to be coming true, so we figured we better get back down while we were still fresh. We returned to C3 at 11 am, made a brew, and then continued down to C2. Our oxygenless goals for today are acheived, we climbed through the Yellow Band, past Lhotse high camp, over the Geneva Spur. We touched the South Col, and felt the extreme winds of high altitude. Although we breathed no supplemental oxygen, we did it in safety with Sherpas carry emergency oxygen and good fall back precautions in place.
May 9 - Everest Dispatch Blog. Two of our members would Iike to try without oxygen, so they are now in the camp 3 - camp 4 area doing high altitude training for oxygenless ascents. Two of our strongest Everest summitter Sherpas are accompanying them, caring extra oxygen, masks, and regulators in case of emergency. The weather is mildly overcast, warm with light snow
Single moms baked some cinnamon bread today. Photo Caption: Food at Everest Basecamp.
Photo Caption: Team resting at Namche after camp 3 rotation.
Video Caption: Puja at Everest Base camp.
Helicopter in Everest BC.
Life at Everest expedition 2022 for summitclimb.
Photo Caption: Puja at Everest basecamp.
Photo Caption: Camp 1, Lhotse face seen from Camp 1 to Camp 2.
Dinning tent at Everest Basecamp.
Dawa and Mark having some tea at camp 3 arriving in just under 4 hours yesterday. Today on the other hand felt like a never ending day through the icefall. On the way to Camp 2 Zach, Jason, Erick.
Near camp 3.
Mark at camp 3. Camp 3. Photo Mark.
Photo Caption : this is from Camp 3. From left to right- Jason, Paul, Morgan, and Adam. Photo Caption: Lunch at Camp 2.
Photo Caption: Arriving Camp 2. Photo Caption: Camp 2.
May 3 - We ate an early breakfast and walked up through the camp 2 neighborhood, across the snow apron to the base of the Lhotse face. There are a few small crevasses here, some with rope, jumpable. It was rather warm and we had to shed a few layers. Thus the Western Cwm earns its nick name: Western BBQ. Climbing the face is exciting. There are at least 2 well fixed ropes, 1 up and 1 down, and the snow and is steep at times, but almost never involves any vertical hanging. The snow/ice conditions are pretty good: as we have had a fair amount of snowfall lately, any blue ice is well covered and scratched up by crampons so good traction is available. After several hours of balanced climbing up the high ground and a few pulls on the ascender, we can walk away from the sustained steepness of the face at around 7200 metres, and low and behold, our amazing Sherpas have found us a nice wide bench for our tents. Its lovely flat and comfortable and the perfect place for Camp 3 in the Lhotse Face.
May 1 - Dispatch: today is snowy, with a fair amount of the feathery white staff falling and flying and blowing around. Today's weather forecast said we would receive 15cm of fresh snow, and it appears to be coming true. What to do on our snow day? Some members are hiking around c2 saying hello to various teams. Others are sleeping in their tents. Many are in the team dining tent (where all of 20 of us comfortably fit) drinking tea, reading books, watching movies.
April 30 - dispatch: active rest in c2. Camp 2 itself is a long lateral moraine made up of rocks and ice laying on the north side of the western cwm. C2 begins at around 6300m and goes up to about 6500m. There are numerous small coves and shelves, and side valleys upon which one may place a camp site including kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, and all manner of sleeping tents. Think 20 of these sites and u can imagine what a bustling place c2 is. Today we are having active rest by walking to the top of camp 2 and a bit further. So we are shaking our cobwebs out for a few hours today
April 29 - dispatch: Welcome to Camp 2. Yesterday we reached c2 (6345m) at around lunchtime. We walked 2-3 hours to cross this very huge plateau. After a delicious dinner we fell into our beds and woke up in c2. Now we are sitting around in our very comfortable dining tent, eating homecooked bread, soup, veggies, pasta, cheese, salami, tea, coffee, juice, hot chocolate, bourne vita
April 28 - dispatch: ok, after 3 nights acclimatizing in c1 its time to move into c2, in the middle of the western cwm..What is a cwm? Its a scooped out valley lying deep between 2 mountain ridges. In our case the western cwm is appx 1km x 4km and slopes from 6000m upward to 6650m over 4km. It seems odd to find such an enormous flat plateau inside such a huge mountain. According to Paul, the way it got here is that the glacier used to be as tall as the summit and the weight wedged apart Mt Nuptse from the West Ridge, leaving the Western Cwm in the bottom of the V when the glacier withdrew.
April 27 - dispatch - after a delicious breakfast we are out walking around camp 1 feeling our altitude headaches and decide the best thing for it will be a few hours walk up the Western Cwm, up through the ice terraces to the beginning of the enormous plateau which carries on up to C2. Upon reaching the end of the fixed ropes up at the big plain (2 hours) we retreat to C1 for tea, lunch, rest and acclimatization. We only crossed one ladder today and conditions were rather sunny with light wind
Mark in the Western BBQ by Paul.
Khumbu Ice Fall, ladder.
April 26 - dispatch: today is a rest and rehydration day in c1. We have a good kitchen here with 2 trained cooks making delicious meals, and 10 of our best climbing Sherpas taking very good care of us.
26 April - Everest News: Well today is a rest day, albeit at 6100 metre high camp 1. Wow, what a place to rest. After yesterday’s epic climb up from Everest Base Camp through the twisted Khumbu Icefall, to Camp 1, we all felt we needed a break, so we are laying around in our sleeping bags in secure tents and sipping soup, tea, munching biscuits and reading our kindles, phones, and books on tape. You know how sometimes it feels really good to just lay around and do nothing? Especially after the day before’s very hard climb, so you feel like you’ve earned it.
Khumbu Ice and ladders. Video by Mark
April 25 - Climb to camp 1 at 6100 meters (20,010 feet). And Sleep at camp 1 today .
April 25 - 3rd dispatch- the upper 25% of khumbu icefall is on the move and we have to cross through sections where there are motorbike and car sized ice blocks strewn about, some on top of the rope itself. Up here near the top of the icefall there are appx 5 vertical glacier walls each about 10 metre - 30 feet high. These walls are a mix of hard ice and snow. Some have aluminum ladders fixed, others are vertical ruts of snow, and still others are a mix of both. In this section its very necessary the climber will have practiced all equipment techniques and usage in bc before ascending the icefall. We heard about some unfortunate accidents where other groups fell down here. After passing the vertical part, we walk for 2 more hours up gently rolling glacier terrain until finally reaching Camp at 6010 metres.
April 25 - (part b) - Crampon Point to Camp 1. All of our climbing gear is on in total darkness. Now we climb fixed ropes up 25 degree average slope up through wavering ice ridges and broken ice blocks. This is not the brittle hard kind of ice, but porous snow-ice on the surface with hard ice beneath. Crampons and ice-axes stick well. Temps are a bit below freezing. Its not bitter cold, there is no wind. We are climbing for several hours, up uneven terrain. We reach icefall center. Lets give due credit to the Icefall Doctors the rope fixing team that maintain this treacherous fixed rope route. We are deeply grateful for the job they do. We are in the center of the icefall now, and there are some surprisingly flattish open areas. The skies are lightening, lets stop for tea. Now we climb into the upper part of the icefall, where we work our way through a new section with collapsed house sized ice boulders.
April 25 - (part a) - Climb Khumbu Icefall. Get up. Its midnight. Starry dark night. Boots on, goretex, harness, helmet. Down suit, sleeping bag, mattress and snacks given to strong sherpa. Big breakfast: porridge, eggs, toast, apples, tea, coffee. Begin walking at 1am. Team headlamps string up the glacier in holiday sparkle. Crampons on rucksacks, walk in boots long way over rock, ice, streams. Crampon Point is traditionally where we fit crampon, adjust harness, helmet up, ice axe in hand. Whats an icefall? When snow doesnt melt and collects in the same place for hundreds of years it forms a big thick ice sheet called a glacier. Glaciers move downhill. When they go down a cliff glaciers break apart into huge blocks of ice called seracs and cracks called crevasses. Today its our aspiration to climb up the khumbu icefall from basecamp at 5300m to Camp 1 at 6000m.
April 24 - Routine Everest Base Camp life - Everest 2022
April 22 - Walk to Pumori advanced basecamp, 5800 metres (19,000 feet).
Photo caption: Icefall doctor visit!
April 21 - Rest, organization, and climbing gear checking in basecamp. Ice training on the seracs of the Khumbu Glacier in basecamp.
April 20 - Our Puja consisted of a Lama (Monk) and our entire crew participating in prayers, rice and flour throwing.
The stupa was covered in beautiful decorations and sculptures made out of butter and tsampa, with plates full of food and drinks as offerings. It was incredible to witness and to be a part of.
April 19 - We are in Everest Basecamp. Rest, organization, and climbing gear checking in basecamp.
April 18 - Today Some walk to basecamp, 5340 metres (17,400 feet). Camping . Whereas are some stay in GorakShep to go Kalapather tomorrow.
April 18 - Yesterday we walked to Lobuche, 4900 metres (16,075 feet). Rest in teahouse. Today we are planning to go Everest Base Camp.
April 16 - Acclimatization walk in Dingboche to 5000 metres (16,400 feet), return to Dingboche.
April 15 - Walk to Dingboche, 4410 metres (14,470 feet). Teahouse.
April 14 - Walk to Pangboche, 3750 metres (12,300 feet). Participate in a Buddhist Puja blessing ceremony with the local Lama at the monastery if you wish. Teahouse.
Photo captions - Hong having dal bhat with monks. Tangboche monastery opening and closing hour.
April 13 - Rest day with acclimatization hike to Everest View Hotel in Namche. Teahouse
Photo Caption: Adam at the memorial place for people, who lost their lives when climbing Mt. Everest, at Thokla La just outside the village of Dughla in the Khumbu Valley. Photo Caption: Heli flying above sangboche backgroud AmaDablam.
Photo Caption: Member enjoying hiking with Everest dogs. Photo Caption: Everest Dogs.
Photo Caption: First shot of the Everest seen from Namche. Photo Caption: The mighty peak of Ama Dablam in the Everest Region of Nepal
April 12 - Walk to Namche Bazaar, 3450 metres (11,320 feet). Teahouse.
Photo Caption : Namche Bazaar
First view of Everest
Way to Phakding Mani and Dhud Khoshi.
Photo caption - Everest expedition members' bags and expedition goods were being ready to transfer to Namche.Paul
Photo caption - Paul
April 11 - Now all the team are in Lukla . All is well here.
Lukla Airport. Photo Dorjee
Team at Ramchechhap airport before departure. Photo Dorjee
Jason at above Namche Bazaar. Photo Jason.
April 11 - Team are waiting in Ramecha airport. Finally weather getting clear. Hopeful finger cross.
April 11 - Some left yesterday early morning to Lukla via Helicopter and rest of the team came to Ramechap to get the flight to Lukla. Finger cross.
Ramechhap Airport. Goat farming.
Nepali local paper factory at Ramechhap.
Photo caption - Team enjoying at Ramechhap.
Photo caption - Helicopter ride for Jason, Zac and Claudiu. Team at Ramechhap playing Snooker.
April 9 - No flights to Lukla today, but Nepal's favourite Raju Lama and his band perform live at Stage 3 in Lainchour.
April 9 - Everest News - Here what Morgan has to say.
April 8 - Everest Team are ready to fly tomorrow. Last moment shopping are done. We got our Everest and Lhotse Permit. Whereas Zac is at Tangboche.
Dinner at Kathmandu Resturant. Photo Murari
Tangboche. Photo Zac
Dinner at Kathmandu Resturant. Photo Murari.
Warm Tea house at Khumbu. Video by Zac
Everest and Lhotse Permit. Photo Murari
April 07 - Zac is at Phakding.
April 7 - Everest SummitClimb Team are on Kathmandu sightseeing.
Kathmandu Hotel Resturant.
Kathmandu Sightseeing. Photo Samantha.
Kathmandu Sightseeing. Photo Samantha.
April 6 - Everest News update - Zac is going to stay at Paiya tonight , planning to push on to phakding tomorrow where as Adam enjoying Namche Bazaar.
Gear checking and Kathmandu resturant.
What a random but wonderful experience, which all started with a airborne flip flop landing at my feet, looking up in the direction it came from, i discover the grinning face of a young monk still out of breath from a Vigourous volleyball game going on above me. After a short conversation and the return of his footwear he asked me to join them in a game. Thank you lads!!!
Photo caption : Adam (USA) arrived in Namche.
April 6 - Everest team for SummitClimb are arriving and some are organizing climbing equipment, some renting climbing gear around Kathmandu climbing store. Now we are having breakfast in Hotel. All is going well here.
March 3 - Update from Zac - Happily settling in and domi lodge in Junbesi, what a beautiful day. I will have no trouble sleeping tonight. Reaching a high point of 3600m I could some stats ( spo2 95 bmp 60) no doubt the altitude will get me but not yet. I hope you have had a great too .
1 April - Here is what Zac said about Everest News - I hope you are well, I am safe and sound tucking into Delicious garlic soup in the tea house in Bhandar.
30 March - Our Everest Sherpa are going to Phakding with all the expedition goods. Hopefully they will reach Namche by 1st of April. Everything looked good there.
27 March - Everest SummitClimb Sherpa Teams left Kathmandu this morning with all the expedition goods.
26 March - Sherpa and team are ready to go Lukla with expedition goods.
24 March - Super qualified friendly helpful Sherpas with more than 10 ascents are working for our upcoming Everest Expedition 2022. We are leaving for Lukla on 9 April 2022
- Dan Mazur (Leader) , UK/USA
- David O'Brien,(Leader) , UK
- Micheal B., Ireland
- Mark G., USA
- Hong T., Germany
- Paul S., UK
- Erik S., Canada
- Ryo S., Japan
- Jason H., USA
- Zachary W., USA
- Claudiu F., USA
- Adam J., UK
- Erik Z., Germany
- Alex H., UK
- Adam J. , USA
- Morgan H., USA
- Jermaine M., USA
Lhotse / Everest Training Team Roster -
- Zac L., UK
- Dempsey C., Belgium
- Paul K., Germany
- Morgan H., USA
Sherpas And Staff -
- Tenji Sherpa
- Ang Dorji Sherpa
- Gyalje Sherpa
- Ang Dawa Sherpa
- Karma Gyalje Sherpa
- Wangchu Sherpa
- Lhakpa Gelbu Sherpa Lama
- Guru Nigma Sherpa
- Dorchi Sherpa
- Pemba Sherpa
- Dhorjee Lama
- Pasang Nuri Sherpa
- Tembel Lama
- Lakpa Dawa Sherpa
- Pema Ringi Sherpa
- Jay Bahadur Nagarkoti
- Nir Kaji Tamang
- Gyalze Sherpa
- Gelbu Sherpa
- Nima Dorje Lama