Winter Glacier School - Learn Glacier Travel, Rescue & Ice Climbing Skills

Winter Glacier School - Learn Glacier Travel, Rescue & Ice Climbing Skills

1. Snow shoe (racquette) and ski travel.
2. Snow cave/igloo construction;
3. Snow camping and cooking;
4. Self arrest technique;
5. GPS, map and compass;
6. Avalanche detection and practice;
7. Route finding;
8. Roped glacier travel;
9. Snow belay techniques;
10. Ice and snow climbing; 

Please join us for next year's Winter Glacier School:

Thank you and please enjoy this news of our Winter Glacier School.

 

Practicing abseiling and ascending on fixed ropes and ice. 

Team on 1st day of school. left to right - Ridlon Kiphart, Ari Karchin, Jaimie, Stewart Wolfe, Sylvi Montag Kawina, Tak Ogasawara, Martha Johnson, Dan Mazur. Sylvi Montag Kawina enjoying her snow cave. Back to Top

Hello, I hope you are getting excited for our free of cost Winter Climbing School, Thursday 1 January –Wednesday 7 January .Back to Top

Location of the School:

The winter climbing school is in Washington state, exact location to be determined according to conditions. Back to Top

Stewart wolfe and Dan Mazur. Every mountaineer's challenge - Jaime Herriot and Ari Karchin practice 'flaking' the rope.

Victor Masny shows us the route on the map. After a flipping glissade,Setting up the tents at twilight.

Jaime Herriot practices self arrest technique - flipping into a roll - while falling upside down and backward. Jaime Herriot stops herself with her ice axe during a glissade. Back to Top

Jaime Herriot comes to a rest with her ice axe in the correct self arrest position. Sylvi Montag Kawina, Ari Karchin, and Ridlon Kiphart snowshoe to camp. Back to Top

 Using a thermometre to check the temperature of the snow pack, helps to determine if it might avalanche. Victor Masny conducting a shear test on the snow pack, in order to see at which layer an avalanche might occur.

Tak Ogasawara and Victor Masny studying the snow layers and temperature in an avalanche test pit they dug. checking the angle of the slope with an inclinometre. this one measures 32 degrees.

 Ascending a snowy ridge toward the practice area. Team enjoying a much needed rest before setting off on the next phase of our winter school.

Ari Karchin demonstrates proper placement of a t-stake snow anchor.  Golden sun sets like an orange ball behind snowy pine trees.

Team looks on while Sylvi and Tag build snow anchors. Sylvi Montag Kawina practices safe descent on steep snow.

After setting up a belay, Eric McPherson decides to ski down. Eric skiis down while team navigates the glacier below.. Back to Top

 Stewart Wolfe demonstrating safe snow ascension technique, with ice axe, crampons, jumar, etc. Eric McPherson sets up a belay.

Potenial glacial area for practicing on what we saw on our recent reconaissance of local spots in Washington.  Back to Top

Ridlon Kiphart reaches the top anchor. Ridlon Kiphart shows proper downclimbing technique on steep snow slopes

Peaks and volcanos at sunset. Martha Johnson in her comfortable tent.

Tak Ogasawara, age 69, enjoying a ski run while the rest of us walk down. Tak ogasawara age 69 cutting a turn on the steep slopes while the rest of us look on in amazement. Back to Top

Stewart Wolfe and Jaime Herriot crossing the glacier roped together. Stewart Wolfe and Ari Karchin belaying Ridlon Kiphart and Jaime Herriot on the ice wall.

Ari Karchin puts in an ice screw. Victor Masny belays Ari Karchin on the ice wall.

Group huddle during a sudden snow storm, left to right - ridlon kiphart, victor masny, tak ogasawara, ari karchin, jaime herriot, and eric mcpherson. Members trying for to use fix rope and climbing equipments. Photo by Victor Mesny Back to Top

 Jaime Herriot shows correct ice axe self arrest position Dan making coffee in the warm tent.

Tak Ogasawara and Dan ready for action. Member are posing for photo. Winter School. Photo by Victor Mesny

Equipment.

Please bring the equipment from the www.SeattleGlacierSchool.org website, here is the link to click

The above link is a bit long so, in case the link is "broken" please be sure you have cut and pasted the entire long link into your browser. ThanksBack to Top

Optional gear to bring: if you have things that are not on the personal equipment list like stoves, tents, avalanche beacons, shovels, ice climbing protection (pickets, screws, etcetera), please feel free to bring them and test them out. Otherwise we will have all the necessary group gear for the team.

Please note: In addition to the equipment mentioned above, please also bring mountain touring skiis or snowshoes, thanks.

Don't have the necessary equipment? Please just come to Seattle and rent or buy it locally!

What else can you think of?

Can’t join the Winter Climbing School? Please check out our other educational trips:www.EverestGlacierSchool.com , www.EverestNepalTrainingClimb.com , www.EverestTibetTrainingClimb.com ,www.ElbrusSummitClimb.com and www.SeattleGlacierSchool.org : Free of Cost, No Charge!

I look forward to chatting, meeting, and to climbing together with you during the winter climbing school. Thank you very much. Welcome to Our Team and Best Mountain Regards!

-Dan Mazur - Course Leader - www.WinterGlacierSchool.org

Do you have a website? Lets exchange links: www.SummitClimbLinks.com ;

Skype: dan.mazur8848 ;

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dan_Mazur ;

Ps. PLEASE BE SURE TO TELL ALL OF YOUR FRIENDS ABOUT WHAT WE ARE TRYING TO DO (WE PAY YOU A CASH COMMISSION "FINDER'S FEE" FOR SENDING US NEW MEMBERS). THANK YOU. Back to Top

Cascade Glacier School Cost

There is no cost for this school.  We provide a school free of charge in order to encourage people to join the climbing community and be inspired by the mountains. We also want to get people who might already be familiar with the sport of mountaineering to come out and share their knowledge with the group.  This school serves as a steppingstone for perspective climbers to see how they feel at altitude and test out their equipment. Feel free to come out, ask lots of questions, meet and climb with the expedition leaders of Summitclimb.

To take advantage of this great opportunity, download the application for the glacier school.  Fill out the application as soon as possible and send it back to us to be put on the waiting list.  We will let you know 60 days before the school begins if there is room.

WHAT COSTS ARE INCLUDED IN THE FREE NO CHARGE GLACIER SCHOOL

• Six days climbing with expedition leaders, including senior leader, Dan Mazur;
• Learn self rescue, rope travel, snow anchors, and crampon technique;
• Use of group climbing equipment, like ropes, anchors, and tents;
• The use of Summitclimb’s stoves and cooking pots;
• An attempt on a 4000 metre/13,000 foot glaciated peak;
• The ability to ask as questions to experienced professionals and share your knowledge.

WHAT SHOULD YOU BE RESPONSIBLE FOR PROVIDING ON YOUR OWN

• Transportation to and from Olympia Washington;
• Permits, National Forest entry fee, or camping fees (less than fifty dollars);
• Food and meals while on the mountain and in town;
• Travel insurance, mountain rescue, accident coverage;
• Personal equipment and glacier travel equipment (please see the EQUIPMENT LIST for details). We plan on going through the equipment list on our Seattle shopping day.

Winter Glacier School Itinerary

Proposed Itinerary:

Itinerary notes:

• All members must participate in the full 8-day itinerary. It is not possible to arrive later, nor is it possible to depart earlier.
• We are not able to accommodate people who wish to arrive in Seattle earlier, nor are we able to help those who wish to stay later. If you choose to make a longer trip, you will be "on your own". We ask that you arrive at Daniel Mazur's house in Seattle during reasonable hours, that is, before Midnight on Saturday.

Seattle Glacier School Route

Our Glacier school is focused around two camps on or near glaciated terrain. The hike from the parking lot to the first camp will ascend a moderate snowfield through trees where we will be mainly using ski poles. We provide instruction on how to use an ice axe or crampons when they are needed on steeper slopes. We spend most of our time on the mountain close to camp, where snow slopes make for a great place to have class. 

The path to high camp is up slopes no steeper than 30 degrees on a variety of non-technical terrain. Classes near this camp take advantage of the glacier icefall nearby, where we practice our rescue techniques in a small crevasse. 

The summit ascent will be on glaciated terrain with the occasional volcanic rock band. The moderate slopes will mean that placing protection won’t be necessary, however we will remain roped up the entire time. The path to the summit takes no more than 12 hours, with views over the surrounding peaks on one of the most glaciated mountains in North America.

Winter Glacier School Leadership & Staff

Leadership: The expedition leaders of the Winter Glacier School have teaching experience on all seven continents, have organized multiple Himalayan expeditions, and are happy to share knowledge with people of all abilities. During the glacier school, leaders will be close at hand to help you with alpine cooking, building a comfortable home in the snow, explaining the technical mountaineering skills, and answering any questions that you are curious about. Throughout the school, you will be climbing with the leaders of Summitclimb, but you will also be close to some experienced climbers that have come out to join us as well. With so much knowledge around even the most experienced of climbers are bound to get new useful tricks out of the school.

Dan Mazur, senior expedition leader, will be leading the glacier school. Dan is a relaxed, friendly and organized person, and a highly-skilled professional with years of experience in getting people to the summit and back down with the highest attention to safety. He has been leading and organizing successful and safe overland, trekking, and mountaineering expeditions for 20 years, to Tibet, Nepal, Tadjikistan, Pakistan, India, China, Africa, and North America.

Winter Glacier School Personal & Team Equipment

Below is a detailed list of equipment you need for the Cascade Glacier School and at the bottom is a description of team equipment that we bring for you. Any or all of the equipment below may be purchased, hired /rented, or borrowed on our Seattle shopping day. (Click a link below to go directly to that section of the personal equipment list or just scroll down):

• Climbing
• Upper Body
• Hands
• Head
• Lower Body
• Feet
• Sleeping
• Rucksack
• Personal Hygiene
• Medical
• Personal Food
• Practical
• Group Equipment

Climbing-

• Climbing harness. A lightweight alpine harness, no need for extra padding;
• One 3 metre/ 10 foot sling and three 2 metre/ 6 foot slings. This is made from 6-7 milimetre accessory cord or 11/16 inch tubular nylon webbing;
• Figure 8/ Abseil belay device;
• One large ascender. Ascender should have a handle large enough to grab while wearing heavy mittens;
• 2 locking carabiners. 1 large and 1 small;
• 4 regular carabiners;
• Ice axe with leash. Mountaineering axe, no need for technical ice climbing axes. Axes can be rented / hired for ten dollars for the first day and four dollars each additional day at Second Ascent, during our Seattle shopping day;
• Crampons. Any normal mountaineering crampon will work, but please make sure that your crampons fit on the boots you will be wearing before the school begins. Crampons can be rented / hired for 12 dollars for the first day and 5 dollars each additional day at Second Ascent, during our Seattle shopping day;
• Helmet. A sturdy helmet for climbing, not a bike helmet. Helmets can be rented / hired for 6 dollars for the first day and 3 dollars for each additional day at Second Ascent during our Seattle shopping day;
• Trekking poles (Optional). Adjustable poles make it easier to carry a pack through the snow. These can be rented / hired for 6 dollars the first day and 3 dollars each additional day at Second Ascent on our Seattle shopping day;
• Cooking stove (optional). We will have stoves available if you do not have one. Please provide your own fuel for cooking;
• Tent (optional). You may choose to use our expedition tents if you do not have one. If you are using your own tent please make sure that it is a four season tent suitable for the high altitude environment. back to top
  

• Two cotton t-shirts. For when we are shopping in Seattle and checking equipment in Olympia;
• 1 polypropylene t-shirt. For warm days on the mountain;
• 1 long sleeve polypropylene shirt. Lightweight shirt used as a base layer as we ascend;
• 1 polar fleece or warm pullover. Medium weight layer to wear as things get colder;
• 1 polar fleece jacket/ soft shell/ micro-puff jacket. A heavier insulating layer worn over the first two layers, but not a full parka;
• Waterproof/ breathable jacket with hood. Seattle is in a wet climate, so please make sure your jacket is strong enough to handle heavy rain and sturdy enough to not rip when sliding on ice;
• Down insulated puff jacket / parka with a hood. A heavy jacket worn on chilly days in camp, or during rests on summit day. We recommend a hooded jacket that can pack easily. back to top
  

• One pair of lightweight poly-liner gloves. These gloves will be worn when tying knots, cooking, or dealing with equipment;
• One pair leather/ waterproof sturdy working gloves. These will be worn when we are digging in the snow, sliding down the snow, or setting up wet tents;
• One pair summit mittens. These will be for cold climbing conditions. They will be one waterproof over mitten covering a warm fleece inner mitten liner. They should be able to handle freezing temperatures for multiple hours.

Head-

• A warm hat/ beanie. Either wool or synthetic. Make sure that it covers your ears;
• Sun hat. A normal ballcap will work. Something worn on a sunny day to keep the sun out of your eyes;
• Glacier sunglasses. Make sure that they have side shields that protect your entire eye while on bright snow;
• Headlamp. Needs to be bright enough to safely follow a path throughout the night and attach comfortably to your head over a hat. Please bring extra batteries;
• Face shield/ balaclava. Something to cover your face and keep it warm during windy conditions on the summit ascent;
• Bandana, buff, or headscarf (optional). Useful for dusty or sunny conditions;
• Ski goggles (optional). Worn during cold windy conditions high on the mountain. back to top

• Cotton or synthetic underwear briefs. Bring enough to be comfortable for seven days;
• 1 pair lightweight polypropylene or wool thermal bottoms. Worn as a base layer on cold days;
• 1 pair medium weight or expedition weight thermal bottoms;
• 1 pair fleece or micro-puff trousers;
• 1 pair waterproof/ breathable trousers or bibs. Should be strong enough to stay waterproof throughout a day of rain, and strong enough to withstand sliding down hard snow. Trousers should also have full side zippers;
• Gaiters (optional) for snowy conditions and crampon protection;
• 1 pair walking shorts (optional). For warm days on the mountain, or approaching the mountain.

Your clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags. back to top

Feet-

• One pair double plastic boots. Some newer models of double leather/ synthetic boots may work, but most soak through in a few days in snow. Since boots are one of the most important pieces of equipment that we use, we strongly encourage plastic boots. These can be rented for fourteen dollars for the first day and eight dollars each additional day at Second Ascent on our shopping day.
• 1 pair trainers, running shoes, or sandals. For walking around Seattle, or taking a break in camp.
• 2 pair medium-heavy polypropylene or wool socks. Used for the upper mountain and summit day.
• 2 pair lightweight trekking socks. Polypropylene or wool. Used on the lower mountain.
• 2 pair liner socks (optional). Good for avoiding blisters and keeping feet dry.
• 1 pair down booties (optional). Good for wearing around camp.

• 1 sleeping bag (good to -10 degrees C or 10 degrees F);
• At least 1 closed cell foam kari-mats. If you want to bring an inflatable make sure that you also bring a puncture proof foam pad as well.

Rucksack and Travel Bags-

• 1 internal frame rucksack (70 litres + / 4500 cubic inches +); back to top

Personal Hygiene-

• 2 tubes of lip sun cream, or spf chap stick;
• 1 tube sun cream. Minimum of factor 15;
• 1 toothpaste and toothbrush;
• 1 small bottle of hand sanitizer gel;
• 1 bar of soap and small towel. For showering in town;
• Other female/ male hygiene supplies;
• 1 set of earplugs (optional) for sleeping in camp in case of snoring;
• Hand wipes (optional) good for a travel shower or washing in camp;
• Anti-mosquito cream (optional) in case of bugs on the lower mountain. back to top

Medical-

• Small personal first aid kit. Small and simple is fine. Aspirin, first aid tape, plasters (band-aids), personal medications, etc. The leaders will have extensive first-aid kits, so leave behind anything extra, but do let the leaders know about any medical issues ahead of time;
• 1 blister repair kit. Moleskin, tape, and plasters are fine;
• 1 small bottle of water purification tablets, or filter;
• Extra prescription glasses or contact lens supplies. Contact lens wearers, please bring glasses in case of emergency. back to top

• A small roll of repair tape and sewing kit.  In case of small rips in personal clothing;
• 1 compass or GPS;
• 1 cigarette lighter or small box of matches (waterproof) for lighting stoves;
• 1 battery powered alarm clock or watch with alarm;
• Nylon stuff sacks for food and hygiene items. Ziploc bags are also useful;
• 4 water bottles (1 litre).  We recommend the wide mouth Nalgene. One of these bottles is a pee bottle;
• 1 plastic cup, mug for hot drinks, and spoon;
• 1 small folding knife. A leatherman or swiss army knife is fine;
• 4 large waterproof rubbish sacks;
• Travel clothes for in town;
• Binoculars (optional);
• In camp entertainment (optional). Previous members have enjoyed paperback books, ipods, mp3 players, playing cards, or musical instruments for rainy days and camp relaxation time;

Group Equipment:

Summitclimb will provide group gear to use throughout the school. You may borrow one of our expedition tents to carry up the mountain. Participants may borrow stoves from Summitclimb, however fuel may need to be purchased. Leaders will organize climbing equipment like pickets, flukes, and ice screws to experiment with during classes. back to top

Winter Glacier School - Your Experience & Training

Your Experience and Training: No previous technical mountaineering experience is required for the school, but previous camping experience is necessary. Members should be comfortable living outside for the week, staying in a tent, and cooking their own food.

Since we are not allowed Sherpas, participants will carry their personal gear and pitch in with group gear as well. Stronger participants will carry more of the group gear than smaller members, but you should expect to carry around forty to fifty pounds in your rucksack. Basically, if you enjoy walking outside with a rucksack for three to six hours with twenty minute breaks thrown in, then you should have no problem on this trip.

It is important to exercise regularly 60 days before the trip begins, at least 4 days per week, in order to get in the best physical condition possible and truly enjoy the trip. Please contact us if you are at all skeptical about your fitness for this trip as we are happy to advise and explain.

Winter Glacier School Questions

• A) How do I join and prepare for this trip?
  • How shall I join the team? Request information and application materials.Open in a new window

    Please fill out the online request information form . Please be sure and tell us which expeditions you are interested in and mention your experience qualifications, etcetera. Please send us your email, postal address, and telephone number (which will remain absolutely confidential, we never share your addresses, phone numbers, or any personal details).

    Complete the international or US glacier school climbing application form.

    Carefully read all of the associated information here on the website, ask questions and discuss it with us, print out your application from this website, then complete, sign, and post the application forms and we will tell you 60 days prior to school if you are accepted.

    Please do let us know what further questions you may have about the registration process, or anything else for that matter. Thank you.

  • Is this a guided trip?Open in a new window
    We are friendly and highly experienced expedition leaders, climbers, trekkers, and organizers with a 20+ year track record of building high-quality, safe, friendly, and fun climbing and trekking teams and successfully placing out team members on the summit, helping them achieve their goals, and getting home safely. Our leaders and our top team of sherpas are not licensed guides, but some of the most qualified Himalayan mountain specialists available. We are there to assist the entire group. This is a team effort. Our leaders and sherpas are there to help all members safely and successfully climb within their abilities; including an equal chance at the summit for everyone in the team.
  • What sort of experience should I have?Open in a new window

    No previous technical mountaineering experience is required for the school, but previous camping experience is necessary. Members should be comfortable living outside for the week, staying in a tent, and cooking their own food. Since we are not allowed Sherpas, participants will carry their personal gear and pitch in with group gear as well. Stronger participants will carry more of the group gear than smaller members, but you should expect to carry around forty to fifty pounds in your rucksack. If you enjoy walking outside with a rucksack for three to six hours with twenty minute breaks thrown in, then you should have no problem on this trip.

    It is important to exercise regularly 60 days before the trip begins, at least 4 days per week, in order to get in the best physical condition possible and truly enjoy the trip. Please contact us if you are at all skeptical about your fitness for this trip as we are happy to advise and explain.

  • What sort of training should I pursue if I join the expedition?Open in a new window

    It’s not necessary to be in perfect shape to enjoy this school. If you can have fun walking for 3-6 hours with a few 20 minute breaks mixed in, then you can easily accomplish this course.

    If you are in good shape from regular exercise, it is likely you are already prepared to enjoy this course. If you feel like it would be in your best interest to exercise before the trip, there are some fun training tips below. In the beginning, to see how you handle the training, and to avoid muscle strains that could slow your training down, you may wish to use shorter more frequent but less taxing workouts, and take more rest.  After you get “up to speed” as it were, you could increase the rigour. Older walkers, please take note of the latter. Also remember that swimming is a fun and excellent form of training because it does not put stress upon your joints.

    In order to train well for your trip you should work toward exercising a few times a week for about 30 minutes each time. Adequate rest and a well balanced diet are also essential to avoid injury and illness before the trip. You should sleep at lease 8 hours per night, and eat three nutritious meals a day. Don’t forget that you will perspire when you train, so try to drink lots of water.

    Utilizing both gym equipment and the great outdoors will provide more balanced exercise. You should try to accomplish at least half of your workouts outside. This could include walking, running, and cycling, but above all should be fun! Hillwalking with a pack weighing 5-10 kilos / 10-20 pounds is a good preparation for trekking. Remember that, above all, trekking is fun and you should always enjoy yourself.

  • Where should I purchase my equipment?Open in a new window

    We help you buy and rent inexpensive mountain climbing, trekking, hiking, and walking gear, equipment, clothing, boots, shoes for sale, purchase and hire at affordable, cheap, low prices.  
    

    We recommend that you shop carefully and frugally for your clothing and climbing equipment. During this school, however we will be going shopping at the mountaineering stores around Seattle, which offer excellent equipment at reasonable prices. If you are unsure of your clothing and equipment wait until you get to Seattle as there will be plenty of time to hire or purchase new and used gear during this shopping day. 

    There will be ample time at the beginning of the school to review equipment and purchase or hire/rent any needed kit from the inexpensive shops in Seattle. Please bring your equipment you may have questions about and we will go through it when you arrive.

  • When must I decide?Open in a new window
    We will let you know if you are accepted into the free/ no cost school 60 days prior to start. If you choose not to come or change your mind please let us know as soon as possible so that we can allow one of the other applicants on the waiting list to participate.
  • May I join this expedition as an individual?Open in a new window
    We encourage you to join us as an individual team member. Most of our members join as individuals, our team dynamics work well, and we are able to build successful and safe groups of people that enjoy climbing together. The free school is a great place to meet new friends and future climbing partners.
  • May I bring my friends, family, colleagues, and clients with me on this trip?Open in a new window
    Please contact us if you would like to bring a friend or colleague on the trip.  Have them fill out the same application that you did, and we will try to accommodate them in the school. 
  • What sort of contact will I have with the team before the trip?Open in a new window
    We send out a newsletter with all of the logistics for your arrival in Seattle approximately one month prior to the expedition. At this point, we usually share your email with the other team members, so you may meet one another and set up helpful logistics with one another.
  • What will the weather and temperature be like?Open in a new window
    The temperature and weather in the Pacific Northwest is normally mild. The maritime climate means that mist and rain happens frequently, however in the summer it is normally drier. Expect temperatures in town to be 20 degrees C / 70 degrees F, and expect temperatures on the mountain to drop down to -6 degrees C / 20 degrees F on average. Sunny days on the glacier are warm, and normally when we are teaching the school a lightweight jumper works fine. The evenings and the night when we are in our sleeping bags are generally the significantly cooler times.
  • How shall I organize my visa?Open in a new window

    If you need a visa to travel to the US. please visit the U.S. Department of State online and find out specific information on a visa from your country. Go to the travel link for travel and visas, and look up a tourist visa. http://travel.state.gov/visa/visa_1750.html .

  • Which vaccinations and immunizations will I need?Open in a new window
    No major vaccinations or necessary to travel to the United States. You may check with the U.S. State Department if you are concerned about a specific country or a specific question.
  • How shall I pay?Open in a new window
    There is no cost to this school, so no need to send money to Summitclimb. However, please bring cash (no more than 100 dollars) for camping and permit fees and be prepared to pay for equipment rentals, food and lodging.
  • What if I decide to cancel my membership?Open in a new window
    Please let us know as early as possible if you plan on canceling the trip so that we can allow one of the other applicants on the waiting list to take your place. There is no cost or fee to canceling your trip however.
  • Is there a chance this trip will be cancelled?Open in a new window
    Only in the rarest of circumstances has a trip ever been canceled. The chances of a cancellation are highly unlikely.
  • What is your refund policy?Open in a new window
    There is no fee to refund for the school, and travel insurance should refund expenses for airfare as long as you purchase a trip cancellation policy.
• B) Who are the leaders and staff?
  • Who will be leading the expedition?Open in a new window
    The leader of your expedition is a very experienced and qualified British, European, or American leader.
  • How can I meet the leaders of the expedition?Open in a new window
    We encourage you to meet with the expedition leader(s) during our Lecture Tour . Each year our leaders tour the world and present slide and video lectures detailing their recent climbs in order to raise money for charities / non-profits, such as the Mounteverestfoundation.org . Please enquire as to the possibility of hosting or attending such a presentation in your locale. Leaders will also be included in the newsletters prior to the school.
  • Who will be organizing the expedition?Open in a new window

    One of our lead organizers is the very experienced, Dan Mazur, trekking in Nepal since 1986 and climber-leader-organizer of Everest, K2 and 12 “eight-thousand-metre-peaks”. He is relaxed, friendly and well organized.  Dan is a highly skilled professional with 25 years experience in helping people explore the mountains, with the highest attention to detail, comfort, and safety.

     
    Please click here to view the Seattle Glacier School leadership page for more about our leader, organizer, sherpas, and staff.
  • Who are the staff of the expedition?Open in a new window
    For the Seattle Glacier School, there will be leaders from Summitclimb as well as experienced climbers from around the world. The school is an excellent opportunity to interact with the leaders and staff of Summitclimb without cost. 
• C) Who are the members?
  • What type of team members will be on the expedition?Open in a new window
    Members are men and women from around the world who enjoy touring, walking, climbing, camping, and being in the mountains with friends. Our youngest member was age 18, and our oldest 67 years of age. The average age is 38, with many members in their 20s, 30s, 40s, and 50s. We have neither a lower nor an upper limit on group size. Please note; We seek out members who can bring to this expedition a friendly spirit of team-work, as high altitude climbing and trekking are all about cooperation and working together and getting on with your team-mates.
  • How can I meet the other members of the expedition?Open in a new window
    Approximately one month prior to the expedition we send out a newsletter with all of the logistics for your arrival in Seattle.  At this point, we usually share your email address with the other team members, so you may meet one another.
  • Who will I be climbing and camping with during the expedition?Open in a new window
    Members are men and women from around the world who enjoy touring, walking, climbing, camping, and being in the mountains with friends. Our youngest member was age 18, and our oldest 68 years of age. The average age is 36, with many members in their 20s, 30s, 40s, and 50s. We have neither a lower nor an upper limit on group size. Please note; We seek out members who can bring to this expedition a friendly spirit of team-work, as high altitude climbing and trekking are all about cooperation and working together and getting on with your team-mates.
  • Will I be sharing a room or tent with anyone?Open in a new window
    We recommend that you split a tent with one of the other members of the group for the school. This will make it easier to carry up the mountain. You may choose to bring your own single person tent, but Summitclimb only provides large expedition style tents.
  • How large will the group be?Open in a new window
    The group will be between 10-18 people depending on how many people apply and how many leaders we have on staff to help. The larger the group size the more leaders and assistant leaders will be added to accommodate the team.
  • What is the minimum number of members needed to run the expedition?Open in a new window
    We have never needed to cancel a Seattle Glacier School due to lack of members. We will let you know 60 days prior to the trip if you are accepted to the school, and if you are told you are accepted than it would be very unlikely that there would be a cancellation regardless of members.
  • May I join this expedition as an individual?Open in a new window
    We encourage you to join us as an individual team member. Most of our members join as individuals, our team dynamics work well, and we are able to build successful and safe groups of people that enjoy climbing together. The free school is a great place to meet new friends and future climbing partners.
  • May I bring my friends, family, colleagues, and clients with me on this trip?Open in a new window
    Please contact us if you would like to bring a friend or colleague on the trip. Have them fill out the same application that you did, and we will try to accommodate them in the school. 
  • Can I earn a commission for referring my friends, colleagues, clients, or a group?Open in a new window
    The Seattle Glacier School is free of charge, so we won’t offer commission for referring friends. However, if you refer friends, colleagues, clients, or a group to one of our other expeditions in the future we do give discounts and commission. Please write and ask us and enquire about our other expeditions.
• D) What the cost includes.
  • Why is the school free of cost?Open in a new window

    The Glacier School is open to men and women of all experience levels who apply, free of cost. We hope that by providing a school at no cost, we can get people passionate about the sport we are excited about sharing.

     
    We also hope that you will be able to meet the leaders of Summitclimb, hear about other expeditions that we run, and get questions answered about other opportunities you may be inspired to try.
  • What does the price include?Open in a new window
    Six days climbing with expedition leaders, including senior leader, Dan Mazur;
    • Learn self rescue, rope travel, snow anchors, and crampon technique;
    • Use of group climbing equipment, like ropes, anchors, and tents;
    • The use of Summitclimb’s stoves and cooking pots;
    • An attempt on a 4000 metre/13,000 foot glaciated peak;
    • The ability to ask as questions to experienced professionals and share your knowledge.
  • What is not included?Open in a new window
    Transportation to and from Olympia Washington;
    • Permits, National Forest entry fee, or camping fees (less than fifty dollars);
    • Food and meals while on the mountain and in town;
    • Travel insurance, mountain rescue, accident coverage;
    • Personal equipment and glacier travel equipment (please see the EQUIPMENT LIST for details). We plan on going through the equipment list on our Seattle shopping day.
• E) Details of the itinerary, route, and weather.
  • What are the details for the itinerary? Open in a new window
    Please click here to see the link to our detailed itinerary.
  • What are the details of the route?Open in a new window
    Please click here to see the link to our route description.
  • What will the weather and temperature be like?Open in a new window
    The temperature and weather in the Pacific Northwest is normally mild. The maritime climate means that mist and rain happens frequently, however in the summer it is normally drier. Expect temperatures in town to be 20 degrees C / 70 degrees F, and expect temperatures on the mountain to drop down to -6 degrees C / 20 degrees F on average. Sunny days on the glacier are warm however, and normally when we are teaching the school, a lightweight jumper works fine. The evenings and the night when we are bundled in our sleeping bags are generally the cooler times.
• F) What qualifications, experience, fitness, & training do I need?
  • What sort of experience should I have?Open in a new window

    We encourage anyone curious about mountaineering, eager to try new things, and meet new people, to download an application from the website and get on our waiting list. We like to have a diverse group of men and women of all ages and experience on the mountain with us. Although most people join as individuals, we also encourage people to invite their friends to come along for the climb. The goal is to create a good team of climbers, working together to learn and experience the mountains that Summitclimb loves.

     

    No previous technical mountaineering experience is required for the school, but previous camping experience is necessary. Members should be comfortable with camping and living outside for the week. 

     

    Since we are not allowed Sherpas, participants will carry their personal items and pitch in with group equipment as well. Stronger participants will carry more of the group gear than smaller members, but you should expect to carry around forty to fifty pounds in your rucksack. If you enjoy walking outside with a rucksack for three to six hours with twenty minute breaks thrown in, then you should have no problem on this trip.

  • Where can I obtain the experience I need?Open in a new window

    No previous technical mountaineering experience is required for the school, but previous camping experience is necessary. Members should be comfortable living outside for the week, staying in a tent, and cooking their own food.

     

    Since we are not allowed Sherpas, participants will carry their personal gear and pitch in with group gear as well. Stronger participants will carry more of the group gear than smaller members, but you should expect to carry around forty to fifty pounds in your rucksack on a day we move camp. If you enjoy walking outside with a rucksack for three to six hours with twenty minute breaks thrown in, then you should have no problem on this trip.

     

    It is important to exercise regularly 60 days before the trip begins, at least 4 days per week, in order to get in the best physical condition possible and truly enjoy the trip. Please contact us if you are at all skeptical about your fitness for this trip as we are happy to advise and explain.
  • How healthy and fit do I need to be?Open in a new window

    It’s not necessary to be in perfect shape to enjoy this school.  If you can have fun walking for 3-6 hours with a few 20 minute breaks mixed in, then you can easily accomplish this course.

     

    If you are in good shape from regular exercise, it is likely you are already prepared to enjoy this course.

  • What sort of training will I need to pursue?Open in a new window

     

    It’s not necessary to be in perfect shape to enjoy this school. If you can have fun walking for 3-6 hours with a few 20 minute breaks mixed in, then you can easily accomplish this course.

     

    If you are in good shape from regular exercise, it is likely you are already prepared to enjoy this course. If you feel like it would be in your best interest to exercise before the trip, there are some fun training tips below.

     

    In the beginning, to see how you handle the training, and to avoid muscle strains that could slow your training down, you may wish to use shorter more frequent but less taxing workouts, and take more rest. After you get “up to speed” as it were, you could increase the rigour. Older walkers, please take note of the latter. Also remember that swimming is a fun and excellent form of training because it does not put stress upon your joints.

     

    In order to train well for your trip you should work toward exercising a few times a week for about 30 minutes each time.

     

     Adequate rest and a well balanced diet are also essential to avoid injury and illness before the trip. You should sleep at lease 8 hours per night, and eat 3 nutritious meals a day. Don’t forget that you will perspire when you train, so try to drink lots of water.

    Utilizing both gym equipment and the great outdoors will provide a balanced exercise. You should try to accomplish at least half of your workouts outside. This could include walking, running, and cycling, but above all should be fun! Hillwalking with a pack weighing 5-10 kilos / 10-20 pounds is a good preparation for trekking.

     

     Remember that, above all, trekking is fun and you should always enjoy yourself.
  • Will I participate in training during the expedition?Open in a new window
    During the expedition we will hold classes with open discussions, lectures, and round table discussions.  Leaders from Summitclimb will explain how to use all equipment necessary and be there to answer any questions throughout the week. During these regular classes we will be practicing and training participants on the technical skills necessary to climb the mountain.
  • Is there an age limit?Open in a new window
    We encourage climbers of all ages to consider joining our team. The youngest summiter we have had on Seattle Glacier School was 18.The oldest summiter we have had was 68 years old. We notice that people who are older may need more rest, acclimatization, and a careful attention to nutrition and hydration.
  • Must I carry a heavy rucksack?Open in a new window
    You will need to carry the equipment & clothing that you bring on the mountain.  There are no Sherpas to help out on this trip, so it will need to go into your rucksack.  Rucksacks during the school normally weight around 20-25 kg/40-50 pounds on the mountain. We will be carrying a pack up to our two camps, but will not be wearing it for summit day, or during the training and practice.
• G) Personal & team equipment and what I need to bring.
  • What sort of equipment will the organizers bring?Open in a new window
    Leaders from Summitclimb will bring all the climbing equipment necessary to practice technical climbing on the glacier. We will have a variety of snow anchors including, pickets, deadmen, ice screws, and flukes. Leaders will also be bringing enough ropes to safely support the team as well as utilize during classes.  Participants will be able to use group equipment like, tents, stoves, and cooking pots throughout the trip as well.
  • Do you use fixed rope for this expedition?Open in a new window
    There will be no fixed rope on this expedition unless we are practicing with it in a class during the school.
  • How much cash should I bring?Open in a new window

    Bring enough cash to cover permits and fees at the mountain parking lot (about 70 USD). You don’t need cash on the mountain, however you may want to buy food and equipment when we are in Seattle. Most places take credit cards and ATMs are easily available. Don't forget to bedget enough to buy any missing bits of equipment or clothing, insurance, travel expenses, food in town and for on the mountain, etcetera.

  • Can I use my credit, bank, cash, ATM card?Open in a new window
    You will be able to use your credit, bank, cash, and ATM cards when we are in Seattle, however when we leave for the mountain we will not be able to pay for camping and permit fees with a card, so please bring cash accordingly (about 70 USD).
  • Do you provide secure facilities to store my excess baggage and valuables?Open in a new window
    You may lock some of your excess baggage and valuables in the leader’s house that we will be meeting in, or in a vehicle at the mountain parking lot. We are, of course, not responsible for any lost or stolen items while we are on the mountain, so if it is an item of extreme value it may be better to leave it at home.
  • Do I need to bring my own food and snacks/energy food?Open in a new window
    You will need to provide your own food and snack/energy food, however you may buy this during our Seattle shopping day and in the supermarket on the way to the mountain.
  • Should I plan to take diamox, acetyzolamide for this expedition?Open in a new window
    High altitude drugs are not necessary for the Seattle Glacier School due to the short time at a high elevation and quick retreat. Our leaders are highly trained and extremely experienced in diagnosing and treating illness and injury in the mountains, and are well equipped with extensive medical kits.
  • What medicines do I need to bring?Open in a new window
    You will not need to bring large amounts of medicines. Over the counter painkillers, like Aspirin, and other over the counter medications that you use will be fine. Please bring any personal medications you take as well.
  • What about mittens?Open in a new window
    Over mittens are necessary for summit day. The rest of the school we recommend a liner glove and a working glove. Gloves are easier to manipulate things, and tie knots, however water-proof over-mitts are necessary for being comfortable in the cold on our summit attempt.
  • What is the best camera to use?Open in a new window
    We recommend something that is small and easily packed. Small handheld cameras that fit in your pocket will be easier to access during the ascent. You will be carrying all the equipment that you bring for the mountain, so if you choose to bring heavy bulky photographic equipment you will be responsible for carrying it.
  • What paperwork and information do I need to provide beforehand?Open in a new window
    You need the Glacier School Application and proof of insurance.
  • What personal equipment should I bring?Open in a new window
    Please click here to see the equipment list that you should bring to the school. If you do not have this equipment, you may purchase or hire /rent it on the Seattle shopping day.
  • Where should I purchase my equipment?Open in a new window

    We recommend that you shop carefully and frugally for your clothing and climbing equipment. During this school, however we will be going shopping at the mountaineering stores around Seattle, which offer excellent equipment at reasonable prices. If you are unsure of your clothing and equipment wait until you get to Seattle as there will be plenty of time to hire or purchase new and used gear during this shopping day. 

     

    There will be ample time at the beginning of the school to review equipment and purchase or hire/rent any needed kit from the inexpensive shops in Seattle. Please bring your gear you may have questions about and we will go through it when you arrive.

  • Will there be time to hire-rent-purchase my equipment, boots, and clothing in Seattle?Open in a new window
    We devote an entire day in Seattle to acquiring the equipment and clothing needed for the school. Some members don’t show up with much equipment and buy most of their kit in Seattle with the advice of the leaders. Seattle has many reasonably priced stores where you can purchase or hire new and used equipment.
  • How much are the prices for boots, clothing, shoes, mattresses, and climbing equipment in Seattle?Open in a new window

    Prices for new equipment in Seattle is comparable to what is found online at various outdoor equipment websites. We will be stopping by Second Ascent, which is a used mountain equipment store in Seattle where you will be able to find deals on much of your mountaineering equipment. You may hire equipment in Seattle at Second Ascent for each of the following;

    Plastic Boots are 14 dollars for the first day and 8 dollars each additional day.
    • Ice axes are 10 dollars for the first day and 4 dollars for each additional day.
    • Crampons are 12 dollars the first day and 5 dollars each additional day.
    • Trekking poles are 6 dollars for the first day and 3 dollars each additional day.
    • Helmets are 6 dollars the first day and 3 dollars each additional day.

    All equipment rentals do not count the day the it is rented or the day that it is returned.

• H) Flying from home country, welcome to Seattle.
  • What is the best way to purchase my international air ticket?Open in a new window
    Seattle is a large airport with many international flights, that is easily found online. The Seattle Tacoma International Airport is abbreviated by SEA. We think that it is best to book your ticket online through a website like Orbitz, Kayak, or Priceline. We can connect you with a travel agent if you would like, however we have found that people are finding the best deals by themselves online.
  • What day do I need to arrive and what day may I leave the expedition?Open in a new window
    You should plan to arrive sometime on Day One, the Arrival Day of the scheduled itinerary. Get in and get comfortable as we will be starting the school early on Day 2 when we meet for a breakfast meeting. Plan to leave on Day 8 in afternoon or evening.  Day 7 might be quite long, so please do not book your ticket in the evening of Day 7 or early on Day 8. We are sorry but we cannot accommodate extra days, so if you want to come early or stay late please be prepared to be independent.
  • Will someone be there to meet me at the airport?Open in a new window
    You will need to provide your own transportation to the leader’s house for our group meeting, which occurs at 8:30 in the morning on day 2. You may hire a car, pay for a ride, or carpool with another member in order to make your way to the meeting.
  • Will my hotel be booked in advance and will someone take me to my hotel?Open in a new window
    When you arrive in Seattle, you may choose to camp in one of the leader’s back yard free of charge. If you choose to stay in a hotel, it will be at your own expense. You must arrange your personal transportation to and from the school and may choose to hire a car, carpool with another member of the school, or pay for a driver at your own expense. 
  • Must I pay for my hotels and meals in Seattle?Open in a new window
    During the school, you will need to purchase all of your personal food that you will be eating. There will be time, however, to purchase this food when you arrive in Seattle. Free camping is offered at one of the leader’s houses, but if you choose to stay in a hotel, you must do so at your own expense.
  • Will there be a day of orientation in Seattle, to meet the members, leaders, and check equipment?Open in a new window
    The first day of the school is set aside to check equipment, purchase anything that you need, and go over the plan for the week. There will be plenty of time to purchase, hire, and check equipment. We will meet members and have a group breakfast and dinner in Seattle as well.
  • Will there be time to hire-rent-purchase my equipment, boots, and clothing in Seattle?Open in a new window
    The first day of the school is set aside to check equipment, purchase anything that you need, and go over the plan for the week. There will be plenty of time to purchase, hire, and check equipment that you will need.
  • Do you provide secure facilities to store my excess baggage and valuables in Seattle?Open in a new window
    You may store extra equipment and clothing at one of the leader’s houses while you are away on the mountain. This house will be locked while we are away, but it would be better to leave extremely valuable items at home.
  • Packing my bags in Seattle which I will take with me to basecamp.Open in a new window
    You will need one internal frame rucksack that should be at least 70 litres / 4,500 cubic inches. This will be the only bag that you will use while you are on the mountain. Some members choose to have a second duffle that they leave at the leader’s house or locked in a vehicle in the parking lot, however this isn’t a necessity.
  • How shall I organize my visa?Open in a new window

    If you need a visa to travel to the US. please visit the U.S. Department of State online and find out specific information on a visa from your country. Go to the travel link for travel and visas, and look up a tourist visa: http://travel.state.gov/visa/visa_1750.html

• I) Insurance and safety.
  • How shall I organize my mountain climbing-trekking and travel insurances?Open in a new window

    Nearly all developed countries have agents who offer travel and mountain climbing insurance at a reasonable price. Full-coverage insurance is essential, because it not only covers mountain climbing, but also travel to and from the mountain. This could cover you for lost bags, a car accident on the way to the airport, etcetera. When you see what high-quality insurance covers, you will realize that it is a very good value. BEFORE PURCHASING, BE SURE TO REQUEST A COPY OF THE POLICY AND BE SURE TO READ AND UNDERSTAND IT. Please enclose proof of insurance with your final team-membership payment. If you are one of the unfortunates who come from a country where such insurance is not available, we will accept an authorization letter and your credit card. You must be covered for travel, full domestic rescue, helicopter (where available) and international rescue and repatriation expenses.NO CREDIT CARD AUTHORIZATION = NO EXPEDITION MEMBERSHIP.
    
    In UK, Europe, South America, Asia, the Antipodes, etcetera, many of our members are now using a company called Global Rescue, http://www.globalrescue.com , which can be combined with a standard travel policy, such as InsureMyTrip.com , CSAtravelprotection.com , or TravelInsuranceDirect.com.au.
    

    Here are some other options our members have used successfully:

    http://www.ingleinternational.com/ingle/ (with "sports rider" coverage)
    
    http://www.travelexinsurance.com/ (Get the "Adventurer Plus Pak". This Pak is required to receive medical and evacuation coverage for mountaineering and a rental allowance in the event your gear is lost. To receive this benefit, your policy and Pak must be purchased within 21 days of initial trip deposit.
    
    http://www.snowcard.co.uk/  for UK members only (this only covers mountaineering up to 7500 metres if you get "expedition" coverage).

    http://www.hccmis.com/ (with sports rider added on)
    
    In the US and Canada, your total full-coverage insurance package may vary, depending on trip duration and amount of coverage. We have seen several companies that offer comprehensive plans for travel and mountain rescue. A company called STA Travel is worth checking out:http://www.statravel.com/travel-insurance.htm . Many of our members are now using STA insurance. Please make sure to get their 'medical', and 'non-medical' options to be fully covered.
    
    Another company is Global Rescue, http://www.globalrescue.com , which can be combined with a standard travel policy.
    
    Those who wish to shop further, or have higher incomes and/or assets to protect may also be interested in: Access America, Travelex, Travel Guard, etc. Be sure to check what the policy covers before you buy.
    

  • What sort of safety precautions are to be taken?Open in a new window
    Our methods and equipment used in expedition climbing and trekking are time-tested over more than 20 years. We do not spare expense and have a complete range of equipment and very in-depth knowledge and experience in the use of lead and fixing ropes, rock-ice-snow anchors, rescue equipment, communications equipment, full-climbing equipment for safe ascent and descent, cookers, a vast array of tents (both used and used), high-altitude camping equipment. Our philosophy is one of "It is better too bring too much than not enough". We believe that our philosophy of being extra prepared is one of the key factors in our long tradition of successful ascents.
  • Will there be a doctor present? Open in a new window
    Our leaders are highly trained and extremely experienced in diagnosing and treating illness and injury in the mountains, and are well equipped with extensive medical kits.
  • What if I need a rescue?Open in a new window

    In case of emergency, God forbid, our leaders would help apply first aid, provide medicines and assistance with then we would transport you to basecamp where an evacuation would take place. In Washington, this evacuation would be via helicopter, at your expense.

    
    BE SURE TO PURCHASE GOOD QUALITY CLIMBING, TRIP INTERRUPTION AND TRAVEL INSURANCE.
  • What are the risks of sustaining an injury during the climb?Open in a new window
    Only in extremely rare cases do such things happen, but, lets be honest, risks are present when climbing in the higher ranges of the world. However, optimists will tell you that your chances of being involved in an auto-accident on the way to or from the airport might be greater than during the actual climb itself. BE SURE TO PURCHASE GOOD QUALITY CLIMBING, TRIP INTERRUPTION AND TRAVEL INSURANCE.
• J) Where do we stay and what shall we eat?
  • Where to we stay in Seattle?Open in a new window
    When you arrive in Seattle, you may choose to camp in one of the leader’s back yard free of charge. If you choose to stay in a hotel, it will be at your own expense.
  • What do we eat in Seattle?Open in a new window
    In Seattle, we will be eating at various moderately priced cafes and restaurants. During these meals we will be getting to know the group and talking about the week. You may purchase other kinds of food from local stores to eat for your stay in Seattle and the shopping day.  
  • Where do we stay when we are on the mountain?Open in a new window
    We will be staying in a tent that you carried while we are on the mountain. You may choose to borrow one of the expedition tents from Summitclimb to use for the duration of the school, or you can bring your own. We will be camping on snow and living in the tent for the entire duration of the school.
  • Do I need to bring my own meals, snack/energy food for the mountain?Open in a new window

    It is a good idea to pack personal snacks and energy food for the trip, and you are responsible for providing all of your own meals while on the mountain. There will be plenty of time to buy energy food, meals for eating on the mountain and personal snack items during our Seattle shopping day. On Day 3 of the itinerary we all go shopping for food at a local grocery store on the way to the mountain, so there is plenty of time for the team to get what they will need for the rest of the week.

• K) Communications and electronics for Seattle Glacier School.
  • Will there be a website dedicated to the expedition?Open in a new window
    There will not be a website dedicated to this trip. Our Himalayan expeditions have dispatches and websites that follow their progress, however due to the short duration and free costs of this school we do not do this on the mountains near Seattle. We will be writing a news report after the school, however, so keep a look out for that in our recent news section.
  • What sort of radios will the organizers bring?Open in a new window
    We will be using line of sight two-way radios throughout the trip to communicate between rope teams. We will use these while we go to the summit as well.
  • May I bring a laptop, ipod,mp3 player, and/or digital camera?Open in a new window
    Please bring your ipod, mp3, and digital camera, as these are excellent in camp entertainment. On the mountain, it would not be wise to take your laptop as you will be carrying all your equipment in your rucksack. You may leave any of these items in Seattle if you choose stored in a leader’s house.
  • Will my wall charger work?Open in a new window
    You will be able to charge your electronic charger while you are in Seattle and at the leader’s house. When you are on the mountain there will not be any chance to charge your electronic devices.
  • What is the best photo and video camera to bring?Open in a new window
    Something that is small and easily packed is recommended. Small handheld cameras that fit in your pocket will be easier to access during the ascent. You will be carrying all the equipment that you bring for the mountain, so if you choose to bring heavy bulky photographic equipment you will be responsible for carrying it.

Winter Glacier School Photo Gallery

(Charlie Roberts)	(Rick Eng)	(Heather Jennings)	(Heather Jennings)	(Anna Moll)
(Anna Moll)	(Anna Moll)	(Anna Moll)	(Ulyana Horodyskyj)	(Scott Patch)
(Scott Patch)	(Allen Smith)	(Allen Smith)	(Scott Patch)	(Rick Eng)
(Charlie Roberts)	(Ulyana Horodyskyj)

Winter Glacier School Video Clips

Winter Glacier School - International Members Application

Winter Glacier School - US Members Application

SummitTrek and SummitClimb Glacier School Reviews, Testimonials, Complaints, and Comments

Please Scroll down for more Testimonials:

Here is what Jacque says:

Thank you so much for your hospitality and teaching us such great info and skills! I am excited to join you for more future endeavours in pursuit of my dreams. Thank you for hosting the glacier school for us! I love all the stories and shared experience, you are such an inspiration to us all.

Here is what Lindsay Says:

Thank you so much for this awesome experience. Its been a great few days in Olympia/Rainier and I am really grateful for all your expertise and generosity. I hope to learn more and keep climbing with this new knowledge. It was so fun! See you in the mountians soon.

  

 

John belays Akash. Lindsay and Ben practice vertical hanging crevasse rescue in thhe gym. Lindsay packing in the parking lot. 

Here is what Akibo Says:

You have not only open my eyes to mountaineering only. There were some amazing lessons I got from you which I will remember my whole life.

Here is what John Says:

Words of gratitude can never be enough to thank you for this wonderful opportunity to experience first-hand what mountaineering is all about. To get to experience that, and to learn from a guide of such caliber, is an absolute privilege. For someone with little experience in the field I can only hope to someday amount to at least half of the climber you are. You gave us the opportunity to learn from you, and to bond with people of all cultures in this week long adventure. So in a world where commercial mountaineering is the trend, here is to the company who introduced us to mountaineering for nothing in return.

 

 

Shankar, Andreas, and Akib tying leashes. Team on the glacier in a blizzard 

Here is what Akash Says:

Thanks a lot for the amazing opportunity to experience the mountains. The leaders’ humbleness and ‘down to Earth’ attitude and simplicity are some attributes we should all strive for. This experience is something I will remember for the rest of my life.

Here is what Ben has to say:

I am SO excited to announce that I have been accepted to join climb Summitclimb for a one week mountaineering course on Mt. Rainier (14,410 ft.) in Washington starting on New Years Day. I am so beyond grateful for the opportunity to learn from such an incredible climber. This is going to be a monumental step in my climbing career, one to fuel bigger, tougher ascents. I'm absolutely psyched.

building anchors and setting up belays. Akash coils, Andreas observes. Ben points out his patroller avalanche beacon 

Here is what Harry has to say:

Dear SummitClimb, Thank you very much for leading our Glacier School. I appreciate all the experience you shared with us, and your leadership on the climb. Best Regards, Harry 

 

Photos from Harry 

Here is what Stephen says:

Thank you SummitClimb for the incredible experience and friendship. I can't wait to do it again. –Stephen

 

 

Photos from Stephen Michell 

Here is what Brent has to say:

Everyone,

It was great climbing with everyone and I thoroughly enjoyed myself. If anyone wants to climb out here in the Great Northwest in the future, contact me and I will be happy to climb with you or just get you the latest route beta. That goes for rock, snow, ice and alpine routes.
As to summitclimb.com , I plan on joining some of their trips to Nepal and China in the future. If anyone else has these aspirations, please let me know.

Stay clipped, Brent

Alpenglow covers participants as they ascend above the clouds during a terrific sunrise (Allen Smith). The massive glaciers stretch out below the summit as the members of the Seattle Glacier School descend the ridge back to high camp (Scott Patch). Leaders Bill and Scott go through the hip-belay technique on a slope outside camp as Tracy looks on (Rick Eng).

If you would like to contact our previous members, please send an email to info@summitclimb.com

 

We take our member's feedback and testimonials seriously. These help us to refine and make our trekking a successful, safe, and enjoyable experience for our future teams.

Pre Trip Newsletter

Seattle Winter Glacier School Friday 1^st January – Thursday 7^th January 2016

PRE-TRIP NEWSLETTER

Hello, I hope you are looking forward to the festive season and are getting excited for our free of cost Winter Climbing School, Friday1^st  January - Thursday 7^thJanuary, 2015

Practicing safe vertical ice climbing. Martha skinning up her skis to head up the mountain. 

Here is what is covered in this newsletter:

A. Schedule & dates
B. Arrival instructions
C. Insurance
D. Course activities
E. Equipment
F.Optional gear to bring
G. Snow shoes or skis
H. Renting equipment  

A. Schedule of the Course:

CONFIRMED Dates:

• Friday 1 January: Arrive at my house in Olympia; sleep on floor, or go to a motel. The choice is yours.
• Saturday 2 January: Gear check and equipment hire/rental and purchase;
• Sunday 3 January: Travel to mountain, ski/snowshoe in and set up camp;
• Monday 4 January: Winter glacier school activities day;
• Tuesday 5 January: Winter glacier school activities day;
• Wednesday 6 January: Departure from mountain, return to Olympia; take showers, sleep on floor, or go to a motel. The choice is yours.
• Thursday, 7 January: Return flight home.

 

Team on 1st day of school. left to right - Ridlon Kiphart, Ari Karchin, Jaimie, Stewart Wolfe, Sylvi Montag Kawina, Tak Ogasawara, Martha Johnson, Dan Mazur. Sylvi Montag Kawina enjoying her snow cave.

B. Arrival instructions: it has been requested that you arrive on Friday 1^st January. You are welcome to stay in my house in Olympia. There are plenty of couches for you to use, in which you can roll out your sleeping bag. We don't have any extra sleeping bags to share, unfortunately. Please be extremely respectful of the privilege of staying here, and please be very quiet inside and outside of the buildings, as I live here with my young family. The latest you need to arrive if you wish to stay here is 11:00 p.m. If you wish to arrive later than that, please find other accommodation. Thank you.

By the way, some members prefer to stay in one of our local hotel-motels.

Our house is one mile from the downtown, so a downtown hotel-motel will be best. Here is a site where you could learn more:
http://hotel-guides.us/washington/olympia-wa-hotels.htmlWe don't have any transport for you between the hotel motel and our house, so you would need to arrange that.

My address is:

2017 East Bay Drive NE
Olympia, WA, 98506

Olympia is located 110 kilometres south of Seattle and 80 Kilometres south of Seattle airport (known as Sea-Tac, SEA). You will need to provide your own transportation throughout the Winter Climbing School. This includes getting to and from Olympia and the airport. You can rent a car, take a shuttle van, share a ride with other school participants, etcetera.

It's very easy to find my house, a few miles straight off of the major I-5 highway that runs north-south between Seattle and Portland. Once you reach Olympia, just exit at "Port of Olympia" then slowly and carefully follow signs for "Port of Olympia", then continue on Plum Street, driving straight north on Plum, which becomes East Bay Drive. There are big black numbers on a white signboard nailed to the fence in front of my house, on your left.

You can park on the street. If you need directions, please refer to a map website such as yahoo maps or mapquest. Here is a link to our house from mapquest:

http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp?searchtype=address&country=US&addtohistory=&searchtab=home&formtype=address&popflag=0&latitude=&longitude=&name=&phone=&level=&cat=&address=2017+East+Bay+Drive+NE&city=&state=&zipcode=98506

I will carry my phone with me at all times, and it is: 360-570-0715. If you reach the answering machine, it might be because Washington is still a very rural place and I am outside of the coverage area. Please always leave a message on the answering machine, with your call-back number (be sure to carry your mobile/cell phone if you have one).

I may be out of town climbing when you arrive, if so please come on inside and make yourselves at home anyway. We will leave tea making facilities out for you, so go ahead make yourself a cup if you like.

You won't be cooking or eating any food here, as there are too many of us, you will be buying all of your meals at local restaurants. There are restaurants in the center of town within 30 minutes walk of the house.

The course will officially start at 8:30am on Saturday 2nd January, when everyone wakes up, has a wash, and we walk or drive to a neighborhood cafe, sitting down to breakfast by 9am. During breakfast, Dan will present an orientation, we will have a discussion, and you will complete the required paperwork.

By 10:30 am, we will be back at the house, and everyone will spread their gear out in the garage and we will look at everything and compile a list of what is needed, then we will drive and visit a few mountaineering equipment shops, where you can purchase/hire what you need.

We will be back in Olympia late that evening, and set off for the mountain on Sunday morning. The grocery stores here are open 24 hours, so it is no problem to buy grocery-store food at anytime. Normally we purchase our food on Sunday morning at a large grocery store at the same time as we put final fuel in the cars.

Ridlon Kiphart reaches the top anchor. Ridlon Kiphart shows proper downclimbing technique on steep snow slopes

C. Insurance is Required:

YOU WILL NEED TO HAVE **MANDATORY** SPECIAL INSURANCE FOR THE CLIMB. It costs about $65. One place to obtain the insurance is www.statravel.com/travel-insurance.htm , where you would order the "Standard International Travel Insurance Coverage" . That is the name of STA's cheapest insurance policy: $65.

Please bring your proof of insurance with you and show it to me before our departure. Thanks.

D. Suggested Activities of the Course:

1. Snow cave/igloo construction;
2. Snow camping and cooking;
3. Self arrest technique;
4. GPS, map and compass;
5. Avalanche detection and practice;
6. Route finding;
7. Roped glacier travel;
8. Snow belay techniques;
9. Ice and snow climbing;
10. What other activities would you like to practice?

Group huddle during a sudden snow storm, left to right - ridlon kiphart, victor masny, tak ogasawara, ari karchin, jaime herriot, and eric mcpherson. Members trying for to use fix rope and climbing equipments. Photo by Victor Mesny

E. Equipment.

Please bring the equipment from the www.WinterGlacierSchool.org website, here is the link:

 

http://summitclimb.com/new/default.asp?mtype=&vid=1006&chyes=y&prid=1001

The above link is a bit long so, in case the link is "broken" please be sure you have cut and pasted the entire long link into your browser. Thanks

F. Optional gear to bring: if you have things that are not on the personal equipment list like stoves, tents, avalanche beacons, shovels, ice climbing protection (pickets, screws, etcetera), please feel free to bring them and test them out. Otherwise we will have all the necessary group gear for the team.

G. Snow Shoes or Skis Please note: In addition to the equipment mentioned above, please also bring mountain touring skiis or snowshoes, thanks.

H. Renting EquipmentDon't have the necessary equipment? Please just come here to Olympia and rent or buy it locally!

What else can you think of?

I look forward to chatting, meeting, and to climbing together with you during the winter climbing school. Thank you very much. Welcome to Our Team and Best Mountain Regards!

Beautiful sunset across the mountain as we were heading back to camp (Stewart Wolfe).  Dan and Stewart showing snow level. Photo by Victor Mesny

-Dan Mazur
Email: Dan@SummitClimb.com
Telephone: 1-360-570-0715 (please leave a message with your name, phone, and
email in case I am out climbing and walking)
Web: www.SummitClimb.com ;
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