K2, Broad Peak and Karakoram Trekking and Climbing News
K2, Broad Peak and Karakoram Trekking and Climbing News
Our K2 Broad Peak expedition was a huge success! SummitClimb's Dan Mazur ledour members and Sherpas to the summits safely. We were very lucky with the weather. Our staff not only led our members, they also helped other teams as well. Our Sherpas fixed the ropes to K2's summit and plowed a track through deep snow to Broad Peak. We also rescued British climber, Rick Allen, whose team had left him for dead. Our climbing and trekking team created a new system to supply Askole villagers at K2's trailhead with medicine. We are extremely proud of everyone and thank all of the members and Sherpas for what they have done. We all appreciate all of the families, sponsors, colleagues, and friends for their support. Please join us for 2019 www.K2Climbing.com , www.BroadPeakClimb.com , and www.K2Trekking.com . Please email us with any questions at info@SummitClimb.com .
Blog posts: Scroll down for day by day news of our climbing and trekking teams.
Jake and Jangbu on the summit.
100m below the summit .
Jake Meyer becomes 10th British person to summit K2.
Tomaz snakes his way up Houses Chimney. Photo Jake M.
Jake M. United Kingdom’s youngest person to complete the Seven Summits.
Tomaz R. from Slovenia, K2 summiter.
Jake and Jangbu on the summit. Waiting around 100m below the summit on the ridge for the final ropes to be secured.
K2 Karakoram Askole Village Medication Fund – By Dave Hannaford, SummitClimb, and SummitTrek Team. We made sure that all the medications delivered to the local doctor in Askole
27 July – We are back in Askole village after taking 3 days to walk here from base camp. Tomorrow we will travel by Jeep to Skardu. Hot Showers and clean laundry!
26 July – Gorgeous trekking today.Sunny morning down to Concordia. K2 and Broad peak look plastered in snow. Swirling clouds and a sunny downpour after lunch
25 July – It has been raining and snowing for 5 days. We summited K2 and blazed a snow trail up Broad Peak. Time for us to depart base camp and go home. Miss you!
24 July – After a successful summit of K2, the Broad Peak expedition is trapped in Basecamp by snow, rain, and wind storms curtailing further attempts
Jake safely back in base camp.
Our first view of the joint base camp for K2 and Broad Peak. Leveling the floor of the tents mess tent, before putting a liner in it for insulation Photo: Jake M.
Jul 23 – All K2 members and Sherpas have now returned safely to base camp. Thank God we can breathe a sigh of relief. Congrats on your summit success!
Jul 22 - K2 NEWSFLASH: All Members and Sherpas are on top. Now they are trying to descend. As Ed Viesturs says: “When you’re on top, you’re only half way”
Jul 21 – K2 SummitClimb News:
- All of our team members and Sherpas are on the summit at this moment!
- Radio call just received from K2 summit. All members and Sherpa are now on top. Please with the Godspeed and safety on the way down!
- SummitClimb’s Jangbu is now 200m/660ft below the summit. He is Fixing rope with 2 other Sherpas. Jake and Tomaz may summit today!
Broad Peak News:
- Out Team of 4 members and 3 Sherpas climbed all night through knee deep snow. They made it to the base of the summit pyramid at 1 pm
K2 (8,611m). K2 Summit Pyramid.
Broad Peak. Trekking toward to base camp.
Masherbrum aka K1 7821m. M. Peak from Concordia.
The Great Trango Towers. Taking a break on the Baltoro Glacier.
Jul 19 –
- Our entire team is heading to the summit of Broad Peak now; 3 Sherpas and 4 members. It is 6pm. We have a good forecast. Wish us luck!
- At camp 3 7000m/23,000ft, breathtaking 5-star panoramic views from K2 to Condordia to Bride Peak. It is the honor of a lifetime to see such a site
Panorama of our cold and high camp 4
Jul 18 -
- Broad peak members and Sherpas are in C3. It was warm and beautiful today with some snow and clouds. We plan to summit tomorrow night!
- K2 Team is now in Camp 3. It was a very long day with bad weather. We hope that tomorrow’s trip to camp 4 will go smooth and we can summit K2 Friday
Night view with stars.
Jul 17 – We just arrived in camp 2 on our way to the summit. A fierce little snow and wind blizzard just blew in as we arrived.
Jul 16 – We are in camp 1, on our attempt to reach the summit. It is quite warm up here. A lot of snow has melted
Jul 14 – Today we had a big meeting K2 Basecamp; organizing Sherpas, rope fixing, oxygen, and tents. It looks like K2 summit day will be 20 July!
Jul 13 - Early morning wakeup in basecamp.Beautiful sunrise over K2.Important meeting with all the groups about rope fixing today.
Jul 12 – The entire team is in basecamp. Everyone is well. Weather is perfect.
Jul 11 – We are in Broad Peak camp 3. Everyone is well. Jake tried to summit but the snow was deep. A climber from a different team lot lost. Fred, David, and Tenji rescued him.
Jul 9 –
- Karakoram excitement: Tomas and Pasang are in the K2 camp 2 and going to camp 3.Broad Peak team, Jake and Dorje are at camp 3 and going for the summit
- It is 5:30am at camp 2. There is no clouds, no wind, and blue skies. K2, Pastore Peak, and Concordia are all bathed in sunshine. We are going to camp 3.
Jul 8 – The weather is phenomenal in camp 2. We are staring into the west face of K2. It’s breathtaking! Everyone is feeling well here at 6180m/20,400ft. Tomorrow we may try for camp 3.
Front pointing up the steep ice above camp. Jake on a Broad Peak summit attempt with K2 behind.Photo Jake M.
Jul 7 – It is a perfect, sunny day. We split into 2 groups; A) Jake, Saori, and Lapka are sleeping at camp 2, B) Bond, Dmitri, Dan, Tenji, and Dorje are sleeping at camp 1 to acclimate.
Jake about half way to camp 1 on Broad Peak. Jake’s solo attempt on Broad Peak. Photo Jake M.
Jul 6 -
- At the moment we are all fine in camp 1. It’s 2:30pm and it’s sunny. A rather large avalanche just roared past. We are OK on the ridge.
- The Broad Peak team is eating a big breakfast. We received a good weather forecast. Now we are heading to camp 1. We plan to sleep there tonight
AngDorje Sherpa arriving at camp 3. Broad Peak camp 1 Photo Jake M.
Jul 5 –
- We have a mix of sun, blizzards, strong wind, and a few warm spells. Tomaz and Sherpas climbed to K2 camp 1. Broad Peak Sherpas set up tents at camp 1
- Base camp ice towers are perfect for training the team on ropes. Member Saori Matsushita of Alpine Guide Japan share her ascent/descent technique with the team
Prayer flags in base camp. Team members climbing with the help of rope.
- K2/Broad Peak base camp 4950m/16,500ft: It is warm with light snow. We had hot showers, did laundry, ate delicious fresh food, and watched Vertical Limit on Jake’s IPad
- Our doctors from Slovenia, TomazRotar, climbed to K2 camp 1 in perfect weather after waiting 3 days for the snow to settle and become safe again.
Jake on the ascent to camp 1. The rest of the team about to arrive safely at camp 1. Photo Jake M.
Jul 3 –
- After 6 hours of steep snow climbing, we are in camp 1 at 5650m/18,500ft. There are amazing, sunny, clear view of K2, Concordia, and Broad Peak
- 2:30am – The weather is good. We have starry skies and no wind. We are packing up and preparing to head to camp 1 after a hearty breakfast of course
Sauori practicing her rope work on the glacier. Puja Ceremony: blessing the expedition and our equipment before we start our climbing.
- The base camp ice towers are perfect for rope team training. Our member, MsSaoriMatsuchita, of Alpine Guide Japan showed the team how to ascend/descend the fixed rope
- The Sherpa has a prayer ceremony in base camp Out 6 Sherpas begin the expedition with colorful flags and blessings to K2, Broad Peak, and all our climbing gear
Jake and AngPasang at the Puja Ceremony, with rice powder on their faces and their special scarves around their necks. The route to camp 1 on Broad Peals: From camp 1 there is another 2450 meters to the summit!.
Jul 1 – The sun is on Broad peak, and it is gorgeous. We checked gear, the Bond, NOLS graduate, led the exploration of base camp ice pinnacles.
Jun 30 – Delicious fresh fruit and veggies have arrived in base camp. Jake and the Sherpas erected the wonderfully comfortable, huge 4 meter dome
First close up view of K2. Photo Jake
Jun 29 – We received a heavy snow in basecamp. Today we are organizing camp, and build the kitchen, toilet and shower. Out K2/Concordia trek team has descended. We miss you.
Jun 28 – Today we left Concordi behind. We walked to Ky/Borad Peak base camp. It snowed all day. The trail was hard to follow, but the Sherpas did an amazing job.
Jun 27 – Porters are in need of good, used outdoor clothes, jackets, boots, and climbing INFO@MOUNTEVERESTFOUNDATION.ORG
Jun 26 – We have arrived at world famous Concordia 4500M / 15,000 FT. It snowed today, then the clouds parted to reveal K2, Broad Peak, and the Gasherbrums. We have the best views!
Jun 25 – We had a gentle walk along flat rock glacier. We saw 15M / 50 FT high ice sentinels on the way to camp 2 at4300M / 14,100 ft
Jun 24 - We had a sunny trek across the massive Baltoro Glacier to Urdukas, 4016M / 13,200FT. We had breathtaking views of Trango and mighty UliBiaho
Jun 23 – We had a golden afternoon sunset peeking through gauzy clouds jutting over the Trango Towers. We had the best mountain views across the vast Baltoro Glacier.
Jun 22 –There are bright moon highlights on Trango Tower. We have a blazing campfire, and our 107 porters are singing, playing drums, and dancing into the night.
Jun 21 – We had a beautiful walk to Paiju camp at 3480 M / 11,415 ft. We can see the TrangoToweres in all the glory. The people here are amazingly friendly.
We trekked to Bridge campsite at 3200m / 11,000ft. We are at the mas of Bakurdas amazing unclimbed peak. We have a gorgeous, moonlit, starry sky.
Jun 20 -
- This is the first day of the K2 trek. We have 12 members, 6 Sherpa, 117 porters, and 25 donkeys.We have a 6 hour walk along a river on dry sand and rock. We had a scenic lunch and found garnet gemstones
- The K2 trek begins at Askole village 3.000m / 10,000 ft. It is an amazing, tiny village. Our team doctors are supplying medicine to the clinic here.
19 JUNE -
- We had lunch in Dassu in the mulberries below the peaks. We swam in hot springs and visited a museum. We had tea with the locals in Askole
- We had a morning departure ceremony. We drove in 11 jeeps and visited a 1000 year old Shegar Tibetan mosque, and had a singing prayer ceremony at K2 riuer
PIA flights arriving in Skardu. Photo Dmitri
Skardu -Dmitri photo. Ring Trader Islamabad. Deb-and-John-at-Concordia-Motel-Skardu,-above-Indus-River.
18 JUNE – We shopped and packed in Skardu. We did paperwork and got travel permits. We are excited for our departure tomorrow.
17 JUNE - We flew over Nanga Parbat to Skardu near K2. We are at a nice riverside hotel with good food. We took a car tour of ancient Buddha and had a campfire with musicians.
Ice Cream in Islamabad. By Saori. Kids on the rooftop. Islamabad. Bond Photo
Pakistani music by the camp fire-Dmitri photo. Lunch at Concordia Motel Skardu-Dmitri photo
Today we were up early and helped Steve to catch his flight home. We miss you Steve! Then we had a yummy breakfast at the guesthouse, and drove to the airport, where we boarded a plane to Skardu for an amazing flight past mighty Mount Nanga Parbat. Let’s go and climb it! We reached Skardu, at 2228m / 7307 ft, the nearest town to K2, and went for a delicious lunch at agorgeous hotel, on the banks of the massive Indus River. The views of the surrounding peaks from our hotel are incredible. We forgot to mention that yesterday our Sherpas boarded an Islamabad bus with 45 bags of luggage in what was supposed to be a 40 hour journey to Skardu. However, because it is the Eid Holiday here (Happy Eid everyone!!) there were no cars on the road and they whisked up here in just 30 hours, which included an 8 hour sleep at a hotel en route! The weather here in Skardu is pleasant. A few stray clouds in mostly blue skies, with lots of peaks jutting out all round us. There is no wind and the temperature are very springlike; 21 degrees C, 70 degrees F. Now a group of members are off to see the sights. Tonight we have planned a cultural celebration with our lovely and kind hosts, who have been bending over backward to give us spotlessly clean rooms with fine views, hot showers, and amazing buffet meals. It’s going to be tough to leave here!
Decorated Suzuki passenger van in Raja Bazaar, Rawalpindi. Jangbu Sherpa in Raja Bazaar
Watches for sale in Raja Bazaar. Money sellers in Rawalpindi
16 June - Greetings from the green city of Islamabad. Our members have been arriving over the last few day, and they are all finally here. We have been enjoying meeting one another and sharing climbing and trekking stories. We have had some fun evenings out sampling local restaurants. We have even had a bit of sightseeing; visiting the local mosque and enjoyed a western meal at a shopping mall. The people here are amazingly friendly. Steve twisted his knee while walking around town and two taxi drivers whisked our entire group over to the casualty ER ward at the local hospital, which was extremely clean and tidy and staffed by professionals. We have enjoyed our time in Islamabad at our very comfortable guesthouse. Surprisingly, it rained last night, cooling things off nicely.
Faisal Mosque Islamabad. Jake Photo. SummitClimb Sherpa Team boarding cargo bus to Skardu with 45 duffle bags.
Metro bus in Islamabad. Street traffic in Rawalpindi.
14 June - Our members are arriving in sunny Islamabad. Expedition Leader, Dan Mazur, and 6 Nepali Sherpas are already here. We have been shopping for our expedition supplies. This is a beautiful and colorful city. People are very friendly, the hotel is comfortable, and the food is delicious!
MISSING - The story of the drone rescue of Scots climber Rick Allen, by Dan Mazur and SummitClimb Team
- Rick Allen disappeared at 8000m/26,245ft on his way down from the summit of Broad Peak, the world's 13th highest mountain. He was reported dead by his teammates who took his sat phone and descended.
- At 8am Japanese basecamp cook, Ferman, saw a backpack laying on snow at 7500m/24,606ft. Ferman went to the Polish camp to look through a telescope. Ruckack is alive and moving!
- Polish climber,BartekBargiel, has a special high altitude drone. Bartek uses drone to film Rick Allen climbing to a dangerous ice cliff.
- Three basecamp army liaison officers radio camp 3, and Fred, David, Tenji, Jake, Bond, Dmitri, and Dan Mazur bring Rick Allen back to Camp 3 safely.
- After 3 days,the SummitClimbteam return Rick Allen to basecamp. Rick can walk and talk, but has freeze injuries and facial cuts, from falling off summit rock cliff and hitting his head.
Drone spots Scots climber feared dead in Himalayas. Bartek Bargiel used his Drone to locate Rick Allen.
Broad Peak Route Map
Mr Allen following his rescue from Broad Peak in the Himalayas
- Dan Mazur (Leader), UK/USA
- Tomaz R., Slovenia
- Jake M., British
Broad Peak 2018
- Dan Mazur (Leader), UK/USA
- Dmitri N., USA / Russia
- David G., Australia
- Huaibang Z., USA / China
- Saori M., Japan
- Terry O., USA
- David H., USA
- Deb H., USA
- Thomas G., Germany
- John C., USA
K2 Broad Peak training climb
- Steve W. USA
Climbing Sherpa Team:
- Jangbu Sherpa (18 summits of Everest)
- Ang Pasang Sherpa (7 summits of Everest)
- Galje Sherpa (5 summits of Everest)
- Tenji Sherpa (14 summits of Everest)
- LakpaTendu Sherpa (11 summits of Everest)
- AngDorjee Sherpa (6 summits of Everest)