Everest Tibet News - Summit Expedition, North-Col Climb, ABC Trek
Everest Tibet News - Summit Expedition, North-Col Climb, ABC Trek
Our team did very well this year, with many summits and near summits, including some very close brushes with the summit and wise descents: safety first! As usual, the Tibet side of Everest was uncrowded and peaceful. The weather cooperated at times and our team was able to summit well. Congratulations to all of the members and Sherpas who worked so hard to make this climb happen, and a big thanks to their families, colleagues and friends for all of the awesome support!
Blog posts: Scroll down for day by day news of our climbing and trekking teams.
At summit. Summit to seen from Northcol.
James S. At summit. Photo James. Morten at the summit. Photo Morten.
Summit by Manuel B.
May 28 - Hi this is David O’Brien, we’ve crossed the boarder into Nepal .It’ll be a 6 hour bumpy ride back to Kathmandu for beers , pizza and chocolate brownie’s. The Everest weather this year has been challenging, very windy. That has caused the much publicised crowding by limiting the summit opportunity days. Those big crowd days with queues did not materialise to the same extent on our North Side expedition. We’re lucky it’s far less busy.
Our team worked well , thank you to all those who contributed.
Congratulations to those who summited :-
Ang Dawa Sherpa
Congratulations to the other members for reaching their personal goals. Including two members reaching step 3, at 8700m, higher than any other worldly mountain, before deciding to turn back. Well done; safety is first:-
Thank you to our back office staff , Sue in England, Deha and Murari I’m Nepal who make these expeditions possible.
Thank you to all our Sherpas without whom these expeditions would not be possible. They work tirelessly with good hearts in difficult situations to ensure we can achieve our goals. They deserve more credit than I can offer here and are the real heroes of Himalayan mountaineering.
Good Bye for now.
Keep on climbing.
Keep on exploring whatever your path may be.
May 26 - Hi this is David O’Brien from base camp. There’s pumping dance music coming from the Russian camp, maybe we’ll go over to celebrate all our team being down here and safe. We’re off to Gyirong tomorrow morning for some seriously oxygenated air and a Chinese feast.
After summit at base camp.
May 25 - All SummitClimb Tibet Everest members are now safely returned to ABC. Members and Sherpas did an awesome good job!!
Going to abc. loads taking to abc.
Tents at abc. yaks going to abc.
May 23 - Everest Tibet SummitClimb News: 4 members summited this morning. All members are now safe at camp 3 or below. Expect full team back at abc tomorrow.
May 22 - This is David O’Brien. We’re up at camp 2 it was very very windy getting here , the wind was due to ease off last night but remained persistent. It has to ease off today to allow the rope fixers time to complete the last section of ropes before teams head for the summit from camp 3 later today . We’re all doing well but are looking forward to lower winds
About to reach camp 1.
May 21 - Hi this is David O’Brien from the North Col. We left abc earlier today for our summit push aiming for the morning of the 23rd. There are many teams here now so it’s likely to be a busy summit but the forecast is good . The snow was blowing when we got here but it’s calm now so hopefully we’ll have a restful night.
May 20 - Hi this is David O’Brien from the North Col. We left abc earlier today for our summit push aiming for the morning of the 23rd. There are many teams here now so it’s likely to be a busy summit but the forecast is good . The snow was blowing when we got here but it’s calm now so hopefully we’ll have a restful night.
Tent at north col.
May 18 - Hi this is David O’Brien, we’re heading out of base camp up the hill in preparation for our summit attempt. It looks like the top section of ropes will be fixed soon and we’ll follow soon after
May 16 - Hi this is David O’Brien from an expectant base camp. From all camps people are trying to work when the top section of rope will be fixed and when the winds will be low enough for a summit attempt . Morten our resident banker is doing a good job with the spread betting index on possible summit days as well as keeping a lid on the ever fluctuating price if coke. We’re all doing daily walks to maintain the fitness and stave off the mental stagnation. Movies every evening help, the Hurt Locker last night. Possibly The Last of the Mohecans tonight.
Everest seen from northside. Movie time. Photo Benoît C.
May 14 - Hi this is David O’Brien we’re at base camp waiting for the fixed ropes to be set. There’s a period of 2 days of calm weather which started last night which should give the rope fixing team a good opportunity to do their stuff. We’ve been keeping fit doing walks in the morning, either long and fast or up an adjacent hill. There’s a boule (pétanque) tournament planned for this afternoon after lunch. We’ve made the court, and have selected our boules ( vaguely circular rocks). It’s all set for a big afternoon.
Food time. Photo Benoît C.
May 11 - Hi this is David O’Brien from a fairly windy base camp. After a last minute stick up of provisions in New Tingri, we drove the three hours back to base camp. The rope fixing team went up to ABC today so we hope to hear about their progress in the next few days. So far the ropes have only been fixed to 7500m. I expect the Chinese climbing members to come back to base camp tomorrow. When they are here things will hopefully become clearer on possible summit opportunities as it is traditional that they climb first. I big Happy Birthday to my son Flynn, 8 today.
Enjoying food before going for summit refilling. Photo Benoit . Photo David O’Brien , top of fossil hill
May 10 - Hi this is David O’Brien from our last day of luxury in New Tingri. We had a stinking basketball morning after the hotel breakfast of cake and cereal. The French Speakers faced off against the International All Stars, ten minutes each way ( I tell you readers twenty minutes on a full size, full pace basketball court at 4200m is no mean feat). With 30 seconds left on the clock it was 14 v 14, all square and looked like ending that way. Axel bounced a pass under the Internationals defender to Manuel at the edge of the circle. He lined up the distance shot and straight in , what a shot. France ( and mainly Quebec) had won. The International’s headed back to their luxury bedrooms in despair looking for Pringles and yogurt. We all came together again shortly after though , to walk up the nearby hill and look for Fossils.
Team having breakfast.
May 8 - Hi this is David O’Brien from a very sunny New Tingri. We continued to eat the entire menu last night although the spicy level was way down. It’s really is amazing how much food eight relatively skinny people can get through. This morning we went looking for a basket ball and surprisingly we found one in the dark recesses of local supermarket come toy shop. We played in hotel’s court, perhaps the highest basketball court in the world . Luca and Stephan has been signed to the New Tingri All Stars and the promise of lucrative contracts including an ‘all you can eat’ clause await them.
Photo David O'Brien, basketball at 4200m
May 7 - Hi this is David O’Brien from the luxury of the Chomolongma hotel in New Tingri. We’ve come down to a lower altitude to soak up some oxygen rich air ( all relative at 4200m). Last night we tried to eat everything on the menu at the local happening restaurant run by a Muslim family from the Gobi desert. Some seriously spicy dishes came out, nothing went back.
Climbers heading up to the North Col. Pizza at ABC. Photo David O'Brien
Putting some weight back on. Everest from the top of the Tingri pass. Photo David O'Brien
May 4 - Hi this is David O’Brien, we’re all back at base camp, after a nights rest at abc. The 20km walk at altitude never gets any shorter. We had a very windy night at the North Col 2 nights ago. Things got even wilder when the sun came up and one of several ferocious gust lifted my tent , turned it upside down and dumped me and the contents on the snow several meters away. Clearly I need to be putting on weight to keep my tent more stabilised.
Morten heading up to the North Col. Practice day at ABC. Photo David O'Brien
the calm before the storm at the North Col. tracks crossing a frozen lake between BC and ABC
May 2 - Hi this is David O’Brien from a very sunny North Col. We’re up at 7000m to sleep for continued acclimatisation. The weather getting here was the best I’ve ever had not too hot , not too cold , bit of a breeze. There were a lot of people heading up today , the forecast is due for a change tomorrow, the Sherpas have just brought around hot sweet tea and it’s time loft dehydrated meals soon. I’m up for beef and pearl barley from Firepot, smells better then at home . Everyone is doing well and all got up here in good time.
May 1 - Hi this is David O’Brien. A sunny, windy rest day at ABC. Porridge , cheese , omelette and toast for breakfast. Tuna, Tibetan bread , green beans and plenty of chat for lunch. Why France has great rugby players but not much of a team. How come the best US ice hockey is in Florida. Is golf a sport? What’s really remarkable, as noted by Benoit, is that the temperature in the tent drops from 32?degrees to -1 in the space of 1 hour at 5.30pm. More useful facts later.
April 29 - Hi this is David O’Brien , the ropes have now been fixed to the North Col horay for the rope fixers. We’re all going to head up to touch the North Col tomorrow and back down to abc in one day. Getting down should be fairly quick abseiling down the ropes. Yesterday’s dinner was chicken schnitzel, mash potatoes, noodles, vegetables and a pasty, surprising anyone moved at all today.
April 28 - Hi this is David O’Brien, thankfully it was a still clam night last night much better for tent sleep . This morning we checked the members gear and then had an ice climb practice on the ice pinnacles next to our camp. Everyone enjoyed it, some going up and down multiple times. I’ll post some photos when we’re back at base camp. We’re still waiting for the rope fixers to live up to their title and are now hoping it’ll be tomorrow. I
team at ice training.
April 27 - Hi this is David O’Brien from advanced base camp. It was a good slow steady pace to get us up here yesterday , blue sky’s and a gentle breeze . Last night the wind blew ferociously, a new altitude and flapping tent nylon doesn’t make for a good sleep . The fixed ropes haven’t yet been set by the Tibetan rope fixers. They are waiting for some of the deep snow to go on the way up to the North Col. James has been trying to repair our gas heater today hopefully it’ll be ready for a belated birthday celebration this evening for Manuel.
April 24 - Hi this is David O’Brien, our ABC members left today for the boarder and then in to Kathmandu. It’s movie night at summit climb base camp tonight, a film about kidnapping Getty jnr. Tomorrow we head back up and are Hoping that the rope fixing team gets fixing.
The full tram before ABC members head home. Movie night. Photo David O'Brien
April 23 - Hi this is David O’Brien. We’ve returned from interim base camp through thick snow fortunately following the yak path. It feels good to be back in the relative luxury of base camp. Morten had a belated birthday cake baked for him this evening which followed a potatoe pizza and fried chicken .......mmmmm delicious.
April - 21 - Hi this is David O’Brien from Interim base camp. It took on average 5 1/2 hours for us to walk up from base camp. The weather was good, sunny, fairly calm and a good day to progress up the mountain. Today we had a short walk and plenty of sunbathing.
April 19 - Hi this is David O’Brien, yesterday we walked down to the old Rombok monastery, a magical place full of history and spiritual presence. We were fortunate to be able to go down into the hiding cave. Cut into the Himalayan rock and light by yak butter candles, you can really feel the many monks that have spent hours down there. Today we completed our base camp acclimatisation with a walk up a local hill, great views. Looking forward to heading to interim base camp tomorrow.
April 17 - Hi this is David O’Brien. We woke this morning to a dusting of snow and bright sunshine. The Lama from the Rombok Monastery made the short journey up the valley for our Puja ceremony, the blessing for our adventures to come. The Lama chants prayers for quite some time , followed by a group throwing in the air of barley flour . It’s then beer or coke and many sweet treats to eat.
This evening was Thomas’s birthday and the world famous Summit Climb base camp open mike night ....the best ever. Poems from the UK, quizzes from France and Denmark, songs from Germany and jokes from Australia and Canada. Also a brilliant lecture on Italian sign language from Luca. A very moving speach from Thomas , born the same year as me , proud to be with a great bunch of people.
Puja ceremony. Prayer flags. Photo David O’Brien,
Some of our Sherpas. Sherpas above puja offerings. Photo David O’Brien
April 16 - Hi this is David O’Brien. A beautiful morning at base camp, sun shining and no wind. Today is a relax and do nothing sort of day. Enjoyable for some challenging for others.
Base camp and Everest photo David O’Brien
April 15 - Hi this is David O’Brien. It’s a pleasant 3 1/2 hour drive up over a high pass to get to base camp. The road is paved until the last two kilometres so it’s comfort all the way. All tents were set up when we got here , so after lunch it was time to unpack the duffel bags and get the sleeping stuff sorted.
Team entering the national park. photo David O’Brien
April 14 : Hi this is David O’Brien. In Tingri today for more acclimatisation, a walk up dusty hill which didn’t live up to its name. A big lunch and hanging around in the afternoon sun. All very pleasant, all we need is a country pub!
On the walk above Gyirong. Photo Manuel b
Com eating a plastic bag. Heading back from dusty hill. Photo David O’Brien
The Temple above Tingri. Dinner in Tingri. Photo David O’Brien
13 April : Hi This is David O’Brien Everest leader. We’ve driven up onto the barren dusty Tibetan plateau today over a high pass of 5200m. Well stay in Tingri (4300m) for two nights to continue our acclimatisation. Tingri is a gritty, no nonsense, everything on a single kilometre strip of road sort of town. You really feel like your in Tibet. If the clouds part well see Everest for the first time; if not it’s a bit more shopping and a rest up in the surprisingly comfortable rooms.
Board on the way to Thingri. High way to Thingri. Photo Martin S.
High way to Thingri to Cho Oyu basecamp. View of Thingri. Photo Martin S.
Lake and mountain view. Landscape view. Photo Martin S.
Player flag. Photo Martin S.
Qomolangma National Nature Reserve. Stop over on the way to Thingri. Photo Martin S.
What a altitude gain. Photo Martin S.
Stupa during sight seen. Photo Martin S.
12 April : Hi this is David O’Brien leader for Everest Tibet ABC trekkers, North Col and Summit climbers. After a short delay in Kathmandu waiting for Chinese visas we set off on the bumpy bus ride to the boarder crossing at Gyirong yesterday. We crossed with some minutes to spare and onto the flat sealed delightful roads of Tibet, up through the bear inhabited forest, to the Town of Gyirong. Dinner was in a homely family run Tibet style restaurant and after plenty to eat we all slept well in the comfortable hotel. This morning was bright and sunny, just right for our first acclimatisation walk, through scented pine forest to a picture postcard mountain lake with a backdrop of the peaks of Langtang. Everyone is doing well enjoying the company and the sunshine.
11 April : today’s pics and report. after 10 hour of driving on the way both teams (Everest and Cho Oyu) could enter Tibet. We arrived in a small town called Kirong where we’ll rest tomorrow. The town is surrounded by beautiful mountains so we’ll have a hike after breakfast
- David O'Brien (Leader), UK
- Benoit C. France
- Axel L., France
- Manuel B. France
- Luca C., Italy
- James S. Australia
- Stephan C., Canada
- Morten R. (LIT), Denmark
Everest Northcol Training Climb Member
- Gera G. Israli
- Thomas G., Deutsch
- Gerhard K., Deutsch
ABC Trekkers members:
- Audrey C. France
- Nelly S., France
- Udo H. , Schwerin
- Stefan G. , Deutsch
- Christoph S. , Deutsch
- Nikolaus L. Deutsch
- Swathi B, USA
- Michael T. Australia
- Belinda T. Australia
SummitClimb Climbing Sherpas & Staff -
- Tenji Sherpa
- Chhonga Karma Sherpa
- Gyalze Sherpa
- Lakpa Dawa Sherpa
- PembaRingi Sherpa
- Sonam Mingmar Sherpa
- Kipa Sherpa