Autumn Pre-Trip Newsletter 2022
Autumn Pre-Trip Newsletter 2022
This is the pre-trip newsletter for men and women of all ages from around the world joining our 2022 expeditions and walks.
How has 2022 been for you so far? I hope you have been preparing for the mountains, staying fit, walking and climbing in your local hills, not working too hard and relaxing with family, friends and colleagues.
We send this pre-trip newsletter to you in case you are already a member, are still thinking of joining, or wish to read about how we conduct our expeditions and walks. Thanks in advance for telling all of your friends and colleagues about what we are trying to do, and please recall we pay you or anyone you choose a 5% cash commission when you refer your friends. Let us join together with a friendly team of men and women of all ages from around the world for fun and adventure in the mountains.
Please read down all of the way to the bottom of this newsletter so you do not miss anything important. Thank you very much and welcome to our team!
B) Recent News
C) Payment news
D) 2022 expeditions
E) Organizing your Nepal Visa
F) Preparation - what to bring
G) In Kathmandu (KTM) - arrival and departure
H) Equipment and supplies for walking and climbing
I) Sherpas and staff
K) News updates for families and friends:
L) Additional information for climbers
M) Donations of medical and educational supplies, clothing, etcetera for the Mount Everest Foundation for Sustainable Development:
We offer a number of exciting trips this year and next, which you may review on our website at www.SummitClimb.com and www.SummitTrek.com. Read a short description for each trip below. Please ask as many questions as possible, so that we may understand one another's expectations. Informed team members achieve their goals with greater satisfaction, and are better and safer "team players". We love discussing our favourite subject, MOUNTAINS, so please ask us anything.
NOW IS THE TIME TO JOIN OUR 2022 and 2023 TRIPS if you have not already.
All climbs feature experienced leaders, excellent food, the best Sherpas, and some of the finest equipment on the mountain.
If you consider joining (we hope you will) please be sure to read this newsletter to the end and understand it fully. Thank you.
The three goals for our expeditions and walks are:
- Fun, Friendship, and Teamwork;
- Achieving our goals, reaching the summit, basecamp, or your service project& returning safely
B: RECENT NEWS
At the start of the year, we had several summits on Aconcagua. Plus, treks to Everest Basecamp and climbs on Lobuche& Island Peak.
Our Spring season in Nepal was a huge success, where we had 12 members summit Everest with 15 Sherpas. Our Summer expeditions in Pakistan have just come to an end and now we are ready for our Autumn treks and climbs.
What a fabulous 2022 so far, congratulations to all our members! Please follow our blog for further details; www.SummitClimbNews.com
C: PAYMENT NEWS:
*Special Notice* Charge your expedition to your credit card. Earn valuable miles and bonus points and pay off the balance gradually over time. Please visit www.SummitClimbPayment.com
Please read down to learn more about all of our 2022 - 2023 climbs, walks, and trekking peaks. Spaces are still available, so we hope you'll join us during this peaceful and sunny time to visit the Himalaya. We encourage you to take advantage and book one of the presently inexpensive flights which are still being offered. Please let us know if you need any help finding flights.
BOOK NOW TO JOIN OUR AUTUMNEXPEDITIONS;
PERMITS ARE AVAILABLE FOR NEPAL
***ONLY 10% REFUNDABLE DEPOSIT NEEDED TO SECURE YOUR PLACE***
MOUNT MANASLU: Nepal's ‘easiest’ 8000 metre / 26,000 foot high peak. 1 September to 8 October 2022 &2023 38 Days. 100% summited in 2019!Led by SummitClimb's Dan Mazur, 3 times Manaslu leader, and an excellent teacher, for an exciting and beautiful climb of the world's 8th highest mountain. The mountain's long ridges and valley glaciers offer very easy snow climbing, and it culminates in a peak that features an easy non-technical summit with beautiful views of Annapurna. The name Manaslu is derived from the Sanskrit word 'Manasa' and means 'Mountain of the Spirit'. Our sherpas are extremely experienced, our food is delicious and our tents and equipment are among the best. Climbing Manaslu is excellent preparation and qualifies you for Everest from Tibet, Everest from Nepal and Lhotse. Full Service Cost: $14,150; Basic Climb Cost: $9,150. FULL SERVICE PRICE INCLUDES FREE HOTELS, TRANSPORT, PERMITS, MEALS, EQUIPMENT, TENTS, ROPES, RADIOS, COOKERS, FOOD, EVERYTHING. www.summitclimb.com/manaslu
Ama Dablam 2022, www.SummitClimb.com/AmaDablam : Asia's most famous rock, ice, and snow peak, Matterhorn of the Himalaya with leader Dan Mazur (5 times Ama Dablamsummiter) and strong Sherpa team: Full Service: $6250. Base Camp Only: $3,650 Basic option: $2650 ALL TEAMS SUMMITED IN 2019 !
PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE CLIMB AND THE WALK TO BASECAMP: EXPERIENCED BRITISH, AMERICAN, AND EUROPEAN LEADERS, HELPFUL EXPERT SHERPAS, FREE HOTELS, AND FREE INTERNAL FLIGHTS
1 - 28 November, 6 April, 2023 to 3 May, 2023, 1-28 November 2023 (28 days in Nepal).
Flexible date option also available, with the option to begin and end the trip anytime between 1 November and 15 December. Located just 15 km / 10 miles from Everest. Among the most photographed peaks in the world. Everything for the novice to the expert climber. Beautiful rock is solid granite "scrambling". Basecamp is located in a lovely grassy meadow. The hardest pitch is 12 metres / 40 feet of French class 4, British Severe, or North American 5.7. You will be following, not leading, on secure fixed ropes. Test yourself to 7000 metres / 23,000 feet. Friendly leaders, good teachers, technically accomplished. Before and during the expedition, leader Dan and the Sherpas will check your equipment, and train together with you, reviewing all needed skills on small easy cliffs around the warm and sunny basecamp. Climbing Ama Dablam qualifies you for Everest, Gasherbrum, Manaslu, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, and K2. View the latest news at: www.Summitclimb.com/AmaDablamNews
Check out this amazing video;
Also we now offer our new Ama Dablam and Lobuche Peak combination 26 October - 22 November 2022 and the cost is $7,950
LOBUCHE TREKKING PEAK, ALSO EVEREST VIEW GLACIER SCHOOL: Learn high altitude mountain skills and climb a 6000 metre / 19,500 foot peak with great views of Everest. www.SummitClimb.com/EverestGlacierSchool
1 to 18 November 2022, 3 to 20 January OR 7 to 24 February OR 7 to 24 March OR 6 to 23 April OR 20 April to 7 May OR 31 October to 17 November 2023 (18 days). Flexible dates are available. Call for details Full Service Cost: $3,950. Five day option: $2,250. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE CLIMB AND WALK: HELPFUL EXPERT SHERPAS, FREE HOTELS, AND FREE INTERNAL FLIGHTS. Friendly leader Dan Mazur, excellent, experienced instructor and a very helpful person who teaches everything you need to know. 18 days (or 5 days for the school and climb only) during April, May, October or November. If you feel well enough on the April trip you can transition directly to the Everest Nepal Training Climb or Cho Oyu. AWARDED NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC'S "25 BEST NEW TRIPS". Choose our fixed dates or New Flexible Date Option: arrive anytime at your convenience during April, May, October or November. www.summitclimb.com/everestglacierschoolnews
You can also add on a trip to Kala Pattar and EBC for $850.
Check out this amazing video -
Lobuche Peak and Ama Dablam combination: 26 October to 22 November 2022 $7,950. A combination of the above two climbs giving chance to pre-acclimatize gradually with training along the way. Two peaks in one expedition!
ISLAND TREKKING PEAK EXPEDITION: Nepal's most famous easy trekking peak. Climb to 6,000 metres / 19,500 feet in just 1 day. www.summitclimb.com/islandpeak
1 to 22 November 2022, 7 February to 28 February OR 7 March to 29 March OR 6 April to 27 April OR 20 April to 11 May OR 31 October to 21 November 2023. 22 days or 5 days (climb only) in April, May, October, November or December; Trip includes a visit to Everest basecamp too. Friendly leader Dan Mazur is an excellent, experienced instructor and a very helpful person who teaches everything you need to know. Introduction to high altitude.Full Service Cost: $4,150 5 day option: $2,250. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE CLIMB AND WALK: HELPFUL EXPERT SHERPAS, FREE HOTELS, AND FREE INTERNAL FLIGHTS. Choose our fixed dates or New Flexible Date Option: arrive anytime at your convenience during April, May, October or November www.IslandPeakNews.com
Check out this amazing video;
REMOTE NEPAL CHARITY SERVICE TREK: Low altitude trek. Deliver needed medical supplies and care, teach in schools, live with friendly Sherpa families in gorgeous remote Nepal. 2021 & 2022 Dates: 12 January to 20 January OR 9 February to 17 February OR 9 March to 17 March OR 6 to 14 April OR 20 April to 28 April OR 14 to 22 June or 17 to 25 November. 9 Days in Nepal. (Call for flexible date options). Full Service Cost: Donation $1,850.(100% of your contribution for the trek and your international flight are tax deductible). Discounts for medical professionals and educators. Choose our fixed dates or arrive anytime during the year. www.summitclimb.com/servicetrek Includes all internal transport and free hotels.
EVEREST BASECAMP WALK NEPAL: Walk together with 12 time Everest summit leader Dan Mazur in the footsteps of Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing, to the world's most famous basecamp. www.summitclimb.com/everestbasecamptrek 1 to 17 November 2022. 3 January to 19 January OR 7 February to 23 February OR 7 March to 23 March OR 6 April to 22 April OR 20 April to 6 May OR 31 October to 16 November 2023. 17 days. Walk on wide snow-free trails through green terraced villages perched beside rapidly flowing rivers beneath the towering snowy giants of the Himalaya. Walk the scenic ridge of Kala Pattar with stunning views of Everest. Visit projects conducted by the Mount Everest Foundation for Sustainable Development, including the rebuilding of Nepal's oldest convent in Deboche, and the Everest basecamp biogas project in GorakShep. Leader Dan Mazur is a friendly and helpful trekking guide who knows every part of the trail . Your Sherpas Mingma and Yangjie are highly educated, were raised in this valley, have been to the Hillary School and attended university in Kathmandu. Their English is superb, they are friendly and gracious hosts, and as you walk together each day, they will explain every detail of the trek and answer all of your questions. Full service Price -$2,550. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE WALK TO BASECAMP: EXPERIENCED BRITISH, AMERICAN, AND EUROPEAN LEADERS, HELPFUL EXPERT SHERPAS, FREE HOTELS, AND FREE INTERNAL FLIGHTS. Please go to: www.summitclimb.com/everestnepalnews
Check out this amazing video;
CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR TREK TO EVEREST BASECAMP.
Dates : 17 December 2022 to 3 January 2023. Optional 4 day Island Peak add-on (Everest Basecamp Trek) Cost; $2,550 Add on Island Peak $2250 www.summitclimb.com/christmaseverestbasecamptrek 16 Days of glorious peaceful trekking at the turn of the year. Celebrate good cheer and the best holidays of the year at the world's highest holiday destination: Mount Everest Base Camp. Leader Jangbu Sherpa is an Everest expert and has led 5 Christmas New Year treks. This is an uncrowded and beautiful time of year to trek. Follow latest updates here; www.summitclimb.com/christmastreknews
ACONCAGUA CLIMBS TAKING PLACE IN January or February www.summitclimb.com/aconcagua.
• 26 December 2022 to 11 January 2023
• 15 January 2023 – 31 January 2023
• 06 February 2023 – 22 February 2023,
Full Service Cost; $5,350. Basic cost $3,650
MOUNT ACONCAGUA CLIMBS TO THE HIGHEST PEAK IN ALL OF THE AMERICAS and a famous Seven Summit. Spend time in Argentina climbing a very easy and very high mountain. 6980 metres / 23,000 feet high and excellent preparation for Everest. Patient, friendly leader Max teaches everything you need to know and has been the chief of 20 expeditions for Summit Climb. Please see recent news: www.summitclimb.com/aconcaguanews
E: ORGANIZING YOUR NEPAL VISA
YOUR NEPAL VISA IS BEST PURCHASED WHEN YOU ARRIVE AT THE KATHMANDU AIRPORT: When you arrive in Kathmandu airport, you will go to an electronic kiosk machine and use the machine to fill out your visa application. The machine will ask you many questions such as the name and address of your hotel, name and address of your contact in Nepal, so be sure to have the pre trip newsletter with you, especially sections 8 and 9. The machine will also take your photo. The printer on the machine is broken, so use your smartphone to take a photo of the completed form on the screen. After completing your visa application at the kiosk machine, then you will go pay your visa fee at the cash counter. They do accept dollars, pounds, and euros. The cost for a 90 day visa is $100 USD, a 30 day visa $60. Be sure to get the receipt. Then go stand in the immigration queue for foreigners, and the immigration official will stamp your Nepal visa into your passport at the immigration counter. Your passport must be valid for at least 6 months from the END of the expedition and contain at least 2 blank pages.
F: PREPARATION – WHAT TO REMEMBER. Please read the section below carefully. Thank you.
1) Purchase your flight ticket now. Flights are still available. Please let us know if you need assistance in booking your ticket. We are here to help.
2) Application paperwork and payment - what we need in your file, which we encourage you to send us by email. Now is the time for the completion of registration formalities, if you have not done so already.
Delay in receipt of the following items listed below may result an inability to get you onto the permit and perhaps even a delay of your departure from Kathmandu.
Here is a checklist of what we need to have in your file immediately. If you have not already sent these, please do. We encourage you to send an electronic scan of all of the below documents, please be sure they are signed. Thank you:
- Completed Payment. Please restate payments you made and what those payments were for, ie full vs basic, sherpas, oxygen, etc.
- Make your Oxygen order (if any) crystal clear at this time, number of bottles, masks, payment, etc.
- Make your Sherpa order (if any) crystal clear at this time, personal sherpa, quarter sherpa (equipment carriage service), payment, etc.
- Signed and Scanned Trip Registration and Waiver Forms (part of 4 page form)
- Signed Medical Form (part of 4 page form),
- 1 close up photo scan of your face
- Scan of passport identification pages,
- Complete flight itinerary,
- Proof of mountain rescue, travel, accident, and repatriation insurance (cancellation insurance is advised).
- Doctors letter for all climbs 6000m and above
Please do let us know what further questions you may have about the registration process, or anything else for that matter. Thank you.
3) Please bring all of your personal paperwork, including your original proof of insurance, carry at least two extra paper photos of your face in your pocket, etcetera.
4) Please make sure to budget enough cash and bring it along with you to Kathmandu. Credit cards are of no use once you leave Kathmandu, and even in Kathmandu credit cards are still quite often not accepted by shops, hotels, and restaurants. If you wish to use your bank ATM card in Kathmandu, you will only be able to withdraw Nepalese rupees and not dollars, euros, pounds, etc. Once you are away from Kathmandu you won't be able to obtain any cash and sometimes it’s hard to change money other than US dollars, etcetera. We've found it's better to be prepared and bring too much cash than not enough. Note on traveller's cheques: They are not useful. Please bring enough cash to cover your expenses for the following:
A. Hotels in Kathmandu (KTM);
B. Restaurants in KTM;
C. Shopping in KTM;
D. Nepal visa;
E. Tips for staff, sherpas, summit bonuses, etc;
F. Shopping and drinks (coke, beer, etcetera) during trek.
G. Phone calls and internet charges.
If you feel uncomfortable carrying such currency on your trip, you can give it to our leader for safe keeping. Here are the recommended amounts of cash to have on hand for each trip:
• Manaslu members; please bring at least $1800 cash with you
• Ama Dablam members: please bring at least $1200 cash with you for the trip.
• Baruntse members: Please bring at least $1400 cash with you for the trip
• Mera Peak members: Please bring at least $500 cash with you for the trip.
• Lobuche, Island, and Everest Glacier School members: please bring at least $700 cash with you for the trip.
• Everest Basecamp Nepal walkers: please bring at least $500 cash with you for the trip.
• Remote Nepal Service walkers: please bring at least $300 cash with you for the trip.
NEPAL BANK ATM MACHINES: There are good bank, cash, atm machines, especially in KTM. However, these cash machines will only distribute Nepali rupees, so you must bring foreign currencies, $, £, €, from home. For Nepal walks and climbs, you will change money into rupees after arriving in Kathmandu.
5) Helicopter rescue, repatriation and travel insurance are required and cancellation insurance is recommended. Many of our members are now using a company called Global Rescue, https://ss.globalrescue.com/partner/summitclimb/ Do you have your proof of travel and mountain rescue insurances? Remember, you need to be covered for all mishaps, including both in town, en-route, and during climbing and/or walking. We are glad to advise you about different types of insurance and where to find them. Nowadays good insurance is available for any person from every country in the world. If you have sent the above, thank you very much.
6) Your credit card is your helicopter rescue bond. We will require you to complete a credit card authority letterand attach your credit card. This will be taken care of at our office in Kathmandu. The letter and your credit card will be kept locked in our safe and we have never had a problem with this in the past. We need the name and contact details of an emergency contact person who is available 24 hours a day, speaks English, and is able to wire funds to Nepal on your behalf, for treks up to $10,000 and for climbs up to $30,000, on immediate notice. This is in case you are injured and require a helicopter rescue. They never start the rescue until they have your money, and we are unable to pay for any rescue on your behalf. The above mentioned insurance is necessary and also required, but insurance companies are slow in paying claims, and we can't have you lying on the mountainside, awaiting the helicopter rescue flight while your insurance company investigates the claim. Thank you.
G: IN KATHMANDU (KTM) – ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
7) Arriving in KTM, meeting your flight, and going to your hotel.
Note: Our staff will meet you at the airport holding a "SummitClimb or SummitTrek" sign.
Our staff try to personally meet your flight at the Kathmandu airport and bring you to the hotel. We were able to meet all of our team members last season. Do we have your exact arrival (and departure) information, including: airline, flight number, arrival date, arrival time, coming from where? If you have sent the above, thank you very much. Before leaving the airport please change a little money ($20, 10 pounds, or 10 euros) into rupees at the exchange counter. You will get a better rate once you are inside Kathmandu, so please don’t change too much. When you walk out of the airport terminal, please walk slowly and carefully and look for the sign bearing your name (usually your last, or surname, but occasionally your first, or given name). The sign may also simply say "Summit Climb or Summit Trek". In case we miss you, please take a 500 rupee taxi to the hotel. We did not miss anyone last year, but some members did not read the signs.
All members of all teams are urgently instructed to never tip more than $1 or 1 euro or 1 pound or 100 rupees at the airport in exchange for receiving help with your luggage. These airport people are becoming really persistent and expect that visitors will not know any better. Sometimes they ask for huge amounts of money and people give it to them, so please be aware and cautious when you arrive. Please also note that if 10 people try to carry your bag, they don’t all receive a tip. You just give the money to one of them and let them divide it among themselves.
8) Print out our KTM office details and carry with you at all times. Our Kathmandu office managers are: Climbing & Trekking Office - Mr. Murari Sharma and Mr. Deha Shrestha
Everest Parivar Expedition (Infront of Armed Police Force Headquarter)
- Halchok, Shoyambhu, Kathmandu, Nepal
- Office: 977-1-4283382
- Residence tel: 9771-4418210, 4428110
- Mobile: (977) 985102-3985 or 985109-1456
PLEASE PRINT OUT ITEMS 8 AND 9 AND CARRY IT WITH YOU AT ALL TIMES (ESPECIALLY ON ARRIVAL) IN CASE YOU BECOME LOST
9) KTM HOTEL. Your trip includes 2 free Kathmandu hotel nights at the beginning and two free Kathmandu hotel nights at the end of the trip. You will be sharing. If you want your own single room, the cost is an additional $20 per night (during the included four free hotel nights) and for extra nights $30 per person for single occupancy. If you need extra nights, and/or a single supplement, we can book those in advance. We will stay at the Harati Manor Inn. It’s a new hotel located in the heart of the city action near many delicious restaurants, the city's best mountain equipment shopping, and abundant nightlife all within a few minutes walk.
If you are arriving early, please call our office, so our staff can begin working on the permit, check your equipment, help with purchasing any missing bits, etcetera.
The Harati Manor Inn also offers lots of entertaining day trip (and night outing) options such as city tours, walking tours, rock climbing, mountain biking, wild game safaris, horse back riding, art classes, volunteer opportunities at orphanages, hospitals, schools, women's centres, bird watching, cooking classes, sport fishing, day peak climbing, herbal medicine seminars, day hikes, pottery classes, car tours, sightseeing, temple tours, henna hand-painting classes, massage, swimming, beauty salon, motorbiking, yoga retreats, river rafting, painting classes, golf, language courses, kayaking, writing seminars, bungie jumping, religious worship, canyoning, hot tubs, health club, saunas, fitness center, spa treatments, Mount Kailash Treks, night clubs, meditation retreats, gourmet restaurants, cultural dance performances, wine tasting, pedicures and manicures, casino gambling, barber shop, discotheques, airport transfers, Scenic flights around Mount Everest and much much more. Meals in Kathmandu are at your expense.
We are able to book extra nights if you wish to arrive earlier than the trip start date or stay later then the trip end date.
Here is the information for the hotel we are using this year:
- Harati Manor Inn
- 569 Gangalal Marg,
- Chhetrapati, Thamel
- Kathmandu Nepal
- Tel: 4263429, 4261067
- Cell: 9841230040
10) Arrive in KTM on the first day of our itinerary for the team orientation. All members must be present on the first day of our scheduled itinerary in Kathmandu unless you have made special arrangements. We need your passports on that day so that we can obtain the permit for you to go to the mountains, and do quite a bit of intensive orientation, training, and shopping before setting off for the mountains, in the next day or two. : It’s fine if you want to arrive earlier, and definitely a good idea if you have lots of shopping to do. Below are the dates we require you to arrive in Kathmandu (of course its no problem to arrive earlier).
• Manaslu: 1 September
• Baruntse: 1 October
• Lobuche Peak and Ama Dablam combination: 26 October
• Island Peak: 1 November
• Ama Dablam: 1 November
• Everest Glacier School: 26 October
• Everest Base Camp Trek Nepal (and optional Island Peak): 1November
• Service Trek: 17 November.
• Christmas EBC trek: 17December
11) Please don’t plan on leaving before the last day of our itinerary. We need you to stay until the last day of the expedition. Please note that you cannot leave before the end date of the trip unless you have the leaders permission. Below I have noted the dates for your return flight home at the end of each expedition. Of course its fine if you want to stay on after the expedition ends and there are lots of fun things to do in Nepal like wild game viewing safaris, rafting, visit lakeside in Pokhara, etcetera.
• Manaslu: 8 October
• Baruntse: 31 October
• Lobuche Peak and Ama Dablam combination: 12 November
• Island Peak: 22 November
• Ama Dablam: 7 November or 28 November.
• Everest Glacier School: 18 November
• Everest Base Camp Trek Nepal: 17 November
• Service Trek: 29 November
• Christmas EBC trek; 3 January (or 7th January with Island Peak add on)
H: EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES FOR WALKING AND CLIMBING -
12) For an equipment list for climbing, walking and group equipment, please go to 'equipment' link on the top bar of the SummitClimb and SummitTrek website. NOTE: all equipment MUST be in a locked kit-duffle-holdall bag with your name in LARGE LETTERS. Unlocked rucksacks and unlocked bags of any kind are not advised.
13) Shopping in KTM. We provide an equipment purchase and rent/hire service for free ideas of where to find the best climbing equipment, clothing, shoes, sleeping bags, etcetera for your expedition. Give us a call or email and we will be glad to help. Equipment purchase and hire/renting is simple, easy and affordable here in Kathmandu! We have access to the finest brands and the best quality gear at rock bottom prices. Also, we provide personal gear checking of all of your equipment in Kathmandu. Please bring the gear you have and we will check it and help you find any missing pieces, make sure it fits correctly, and is the best quality for you. Even if you have no gear, please just let us know and we will find every single piece for you. With more than 100 high quality and affordable equipment shops here in Kathmandu, we can find any item you might need. Just let us know your sizes in advance and we will give you a list of options, and assure you of availability.
Here is one of the best priced shops we often use and we will visit there: Gauri Shankar Shop - Kathmandu - (For hardwear like Millet Everest Onesport boots, plastic boots, trekking boots, ice axes, crampons, ascenders, helmets, and harnesses and hiring ) - contact SummitClimb's Kathmandu office to check availability:email@example.com
14) Storing excess baggage and personal possessions - valuables in KTM. We provide secure facilities in Kathmandu in which to store your extra personal items such as luggage, extra money, credit cards, passports, jewellery, expensive watches, etcetera. These facilities are kept locked and are extremely safe. All bags left in storage must have your name clearly written in large letters.
15) Depart KTM for the mountain. After completing our orientation session and receiving permits, we plan to depart Kathmandu the following day.
16) Buy your mattress in Nepal. Regarding mattresses, above basecamp, we do not recommend anything you have to inflate. These "therma-rest" are unreliable with all of the sharp ice-axes, crampons, and rocks that we will encounter. I never saw one not puncture when used above basecamp. These are a liability and dangerous. Please don’t depend on an inflatable matt above basecamp. Several traditional closed cell foam non-inflatable karimat mattresses are preferred. I like to bring 3 or 4 mattresses as they are inexpensive and I want to sleep warmly and comfortably at night. These are available very inexpensively in Kathmandu (for Khumbu Valley trips we buy our mattresses in Lukla), so there is no need to bring any from home. Why fly around the world with a kit/duffel bag/hold-all filled with foam? Our planned schedule allows plenty of time for equipment shopping in Kathmandu.
17) Climbers and walkers-bring or buy duvet-down jacket. Fairly good quality down/duvet gear is available in Kathmandu inexpensively and is a crucial part of your equipment. Manaslu, Baruntse, Ama Dablam, Lobuche, and Mera Peak climbers will, in addition, need a duvet/down jacket with an insulated hood and duvet/down trousers as well. Or, many 8000 metre / 26,000 foot climbers prefer a down/duvet suit. We recommend you advance order your Kathmandu down/duvet clothing so you know it's available. Due to power cuts, 2 weeks advanced notice is necessary
18) Food during the expedition -
Snack Food: Bring your own snack food. All basecamp and walk meals and high meals (3 per day) are included in our full-service expeditions. We provide more than enough food and cooking fuel for three meals per day on the high mountain. However, we ask each climbing member to provide their own daily-snacks and freeze dried meals at high altitude while climbing above basecamp. We do not provide any daily snack energy food, you need to provide your own. Please remember to bring your daily snack-energy mountain food for each day we are climbing above basecamp on the mountain. This food would consist of chocolate bars, power bars, energy gel, rehydration drinking powder, sweets, nuts, sausage, cheese, etc.. More and more items are available in Kathmandu, but choice may be limited. A wide variety of imported sweeets, snacks, and chocolates were available, with quality brands such as Cadbury, Snickers, Lindt and Cafe d'Or in abundance. The prices were not bad. There were many kinds of local snacks and powerbars available, but they still do not import foreign power bars, energy gel, etcetera.
Freeze-dried/Dehydrated meals: We request you bring your own freeze-dried meals. No freeze-dried food is available for purchase in Kathmandu. You must bring it from home. If you like imported cheeses, tinned meats, and other specialty foods, please bring them.
Here is the list of food we suggest you bring for yourself:
• Manaslu: 2-5 kilos - 4 to 10 pounds of snacks and at least 3 freeze-dried dinners;
• Baruntse: 2-4 kilos - 4 to 8 pounds of snacks and at least 2 freeze-dried dinners
• Ama Dablam: 2-4 kilos - 4 to 8 pounds of snacks and at least 2 freeze-dried dinners
• Everest Glacier School & Island Peak: 1-2 kilos - 2 to 4 pounds of snacks
• Everest Basecamp Treks & Remote Nepal Service Trek: 1-2 kilos - 2 to 4 pounds of snacks
• Mera Peak and Island Peak : 1-2 kilos - 2 to 4 pounds of snacks
19) Boots and shoes for your climb - walk. Regarding shoes, please wear the following:
• Manaslu "One-Sport Everest Millet" boots high on the mountain and sturdy- lightweight leather boots for walking to camp 1.
• Ama Dablam: Plastic double boots or "One-Sport Everest Millet" boots. Sturdy- lightweight leather boots for walking to camp ABC.
• Baruntse: Plastic double boots or "One-Sport Everest Millet" boots. Sturdy- lightweight leather boots for walking to camp ABC.
• Everest Glacier School & Island Peak: Sturdy double plastic climbing boots that are made for crampons, in addition to comfortable lightweight walking shoes with good ankle support that are water repellant and well “broken-in”.
• Everest Basecamp Treks and Remote Nepal Service Trek: Comfortable lightweight walking shoes with good ankle support that are water repellant and well “broken-in”.
Please note: Members who have tried to wear leather single boots to the summit of our 7000 metre / 23,000 foot plus climbing peaks have suffered frostbite. Not recommended, and, in fact, for 7000 metre / 23,000 foot plus climbing peaks we may disqualify you from the trip if you are planning to climb in only leather single boots. Frostbite is not an option on our expeditions.
Good shoes and all types of climbing boots are available for purchase and hire pensively in Kathmandu. Our planned schedule allows plenty of time for equipment shopping in Kathmandu. Let us know your size and we are glad to check for you! IF YOU HAVE VERY SMALL OR VERY LARGE FEET, PLEASE TELL US BEFORE, AND WE WILL CHECK THE KATHMANDU SHOPS FOR AVAILABILITY.
I: SHERPAS AND STAFF
20) Tipping your leaders, sherpas, and staff. Regarding gratuities (tips). Our leaders, sherpas, and staff are among the best, because we can count on receiving gratuities for a job well done at the end of each expedition. You will be impressed when you see just how hard we do work. It is a matter of pride for all of us. Besides individual tips, we also ask you to pay an additional “group” tip and we will "pool" these tips together and then, as a group, we will vote on the distribution of the gratuities to the individual staff. This method has seemed to be the fairest and has worked very well in the past. In addition there will be a high-altitude bonus.
We recommend the following tip for our group staff:
• Manaslu $250
• Baruntse: $350
• Ama Dablam $250
• Lobuche, Everest Glacier School & Island Peak: $100
• Mera Peak: $150
• Everest Basecamp Treks & Nepal Earthquake support Trek: $100
Expect to pay the above tip no matter what.
Tipping Climbing Sherpas on our peak climbs: for a group Sherpa, who helps you to climb above the high camp or up to the summit and back down, expect to pay a summit-attempt bonus as follows:
• Manaslu Summit Attempt Bonus: $600, Summit Success: $1000.
• Ama Dablam Summit Attempt Bonus: $300, Summit Success: $500.
• Baruntse Summit Attempt Bonus: $400, Summit Success: $700.
• Lobuche, Mera, Island and Everest Glacier School Summit Attempt bonus: $150
The above amount of money may be split between climbers who were in the summit party. If you have a personal Sherpa, your tip will be at least 30% more. We request you to bring this money with you to basecamp in cash, and be ready to pay it there, as many of our staff are local and will not be returning to Kathmandu with us. Traveller’s cheques and credit cards may be of use in Kathmandu, but they will not work in basecamp.
21) Bring gifts for sherpas and staff. Regarding other gifts you may wish to provide, please bring as many as possible. These equipment donations are quite important to our staff and their families as they are often handed down to needy relatives and Sherpas who are learning to climb and need some assistance. Most, if not all sherpas got their start on "hand-me-down" kit.
NEW SHERPA TRAINING SCHOOL: Working together with the Mount Everest Foundation for Sustainable Development (MEFSD), we need new and used good-quality climbing and walking equipment and clothing, as well as funds for office expense. The MEFSD is building a new school for training 30 aspiring young sherpas, both men and women. Safety, technique, communication, education, health, environmental and cultural preservation and economic opportunities will be the goals for this new training course so that we can provide education, training and help local people in Nepal to earn a good living from sustainable tourism in their beautiful country for many years to come.
Do you have extra mountain equipment, clothing, and shoes/boots? Older equipment, shoes, and clothing are fine. We encourage you to bring any extras for our staff. Please remember that Sherpa people come in all sizes (from extra small to extra large), and would appreciate any rucksacks, old harnesses, helmets, ice-axes, old ice and rock gear, warm clothing, goretex and fleece, pile, down, and duvet clothing, windproof clothing, and any kind of out-of-door shoes and boots, including walking, climbing, running, etc. Children’s and Women’s clothing is also needed. Thanks for helping and being so very thoughtful.
22) Telephone. We have a mobile phone in basecamp. The cost is around $1 - $2 per minute, depending on which country you are ringing andit’s free of cost to receive incoming calls and texts on the mobile phone.We plan to have access to mobile and satellite telephone during the walk too. Those wishing to use our sets are required to post a $100 deposit, prior to departure from Kathmandu. The cost for satellite phones is $4 per minute. Incoming calls are not possible. If your usage exceeds the deposit amount, you will be required to pay more cash in basecamp, or stop using the phone. Be sure to bring enough $, £, or €. While unable to receive satellite telephone calls, at times members can receive short satellite text/SMS for $4 a message from their friends and family.
23) Battery charging: laptop, ipod, mp3 player, and/or digital camera. On our climbs, we often bring a solar charging system on the expedition that members have access to. As long as there is sun, we are able to charge batteries easily on the mountain. If your device has a 12 volt "automotive cigarette charger" please bring it (order one on the internet before you go) as that will be the best thing for basecamp. In Kathmandu, be sure to bring your wall charger compatible to Kathmandu's 220 volt current (when its working). Also, we encourage you to bring your own smaller solar panel, as these seem to work very well.
Computer, ipod, mp3, camera note: Laptops work well up to about 4000 metres/13,000 feet. Altitude can destroy or wipe hard drives bigger than 7 - 10 GB above this altitude, or hard drives that have a moving disk. There are several options out on the market for laptops with non moving hard drives that work well in altitude.
Some early ipod and mp3 players have this problem as well. Check to make sure your ipod does not have a moving drive, especially before you turn it on above 4000 metres/13,000 feet. We have had several instances where these were wiped or crashed.
We plan to have internet in basecamp and we plan for it to be free or very cheap. Last year we did and it worked well. Sometimes we have to walk for 15 minutes or so to reachthe high point where the free internet works.
Digital cameras work well. We recommend that you keep them in your jacket during the day and in your sleeping bag at night.
Please note;drones are not allowed in Nepal without a special permit and a special government officer
K: NEWS UPDATES FOR FAMILY AND FRIENDS:
We understand how important it is for your family and friends to be able to follow your progress whilst on the mountains. Please ask them to visit the following webpages and social media sites for regular updates:
L: ADDITIONAL INFORMATION FOR CLIMBERS
24) Bring or buy warm mittens. Special warm high-altitude mittens are necessary for all of our climbs, for example: http://www.outdoorresearch.com/en/mens/gloves/mens-alti-mitts.html . Nowadays, we can find many warm mitten choices in Kathmandu. You won't need to wear any liner gloves inside these mitts (they already have their own integral liner) so fit is very important. This company ships around the world. Be sure to discuss the size of your hand and what size mitt you might need with the person at the shop.
25) Bring or buy a figure 8. Climbers, please be sure to bring a "figure 8" for rappelling/abseiling. Modern rock climbing descenders ie: "atc’s" do not work on fixed line, and are a liability because they slow you and the team down considerably. It is hard for some people to believe until they witness this personally, but we are asking you to believe it now. Please go out and purchase a figure 8. You may also purchase a figure 8 in Kathmandu.
26) Group vs personal sherpas. Our climbing sherpas carry group equipment. They will not be carrying your personal equipment. Each year, at least one of our team members decides to hire their own personal sherpa. We encourage you to do so, especially if you are not excited about climbing with a rucksack which is heavily loaded with your personal equipment, oxygen, water, and snack food. We now encourage members who need a bit of extra assistance to use our "equipment carry service”. The cost will be 1/4 (not including the tip, which you must also pay) and includes carriage of ten kilos of your personal equipment up and down to and from basecamp to the highest camps. For more information, please visit our Sherpa link on the Leader tab of each website . By the way, hiring your own personal sherpa has been shown to markedly increase summit success and safety, especially on descent.
Our Sherpas will try to help you carry any oxygen.
We 100% guarantee all of our bottles and oxygen systems, and test them thoroughly with the mask/hose/regulator set-up. We have our own oxygen analysis instrumentation, and we are able to certify the contents are 100% oxygen. Additionally, we are able to measure the volume of contents in the bottle. Our bottles/masks/hoses/regulators are 100 percent guaranteed and reliable. We always have spare parts and back up bottles, masks, regulators, and hoses.
M. DONATIONS OF MEDICAL AND EDUCATIONAL SUPPLIES, CLOTHING, ETCETERA FOR THE MOUNT EVEREST FOUNDATION FOR SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT:
28) Please consider donating supplies, clothing, funds, building materials, solar equipment, etcetera, as well as your own time and efforts to the Mount Everest Foundation for Sustainable Development in Nepal. Your donation will be used wisely by the Foundation which exists to help poor farmers help themselves. These families live in Nepalnear Everest, but far from the tourist trail where life is very primitive, making Nepal the 12th poorest country in the world and the poorest country in all Asia. The foundation builds schools and hospitals and protects fragile environments. Please see what we have been doing with recent donations at www.ServiceTrekNews.org . We encourage you to become involved and we conduct service treks and volunteer projects you might wish to join.
Thank you so much for all of your kind compassion and wonderful help to the people of Nepal!!!
29) What have we forgotten? Please express yourself now, and communicate all of your thoughts, questions, and ideas. It is very important that we build another top team this year by working together, beginning today. We always enjoy discussing our favorite subject: MOUNTAINS. Also, this kind of conversation may help us to understand one another's expectations.
30) Let us begin climbing and walking. We are looking forward to further discussion, to meeting, to climbing and walking together, and to seeing you feeling well on the trek, in basecamp, the upper camps, on the summit, and on the way back down.
Thanks for telling all of your friends about what we are trying to do.
Email: Dan@SummitClimb.com and Dan@SummitTrek.com;
Skype: dan.mazur8848 ;
UK telephone: +44 (0)7810 375400 (evenings best, I may be out climbing in the day); US telephone: (+1)360-570-0715 (please leave a message in case I am out in the hills); Nepal phone: +9779841595504 and +9779813028810