Everest News - From Everest Tibet Expedition, Training Climb & ABC Trek 2018
Everest News - From Everest Tibet Expedition, Training Climb & ABC Trek 2018
Everest News of our recent expedition: Everest Tibet/North Col & ABC Trek 8 April to 6 June
Blog posts: Our SummitClimb teams summited Everest North. 7 members and 5 Sherpas. Two members made a wise decision to turn around near the summit and descended with their personal sherpas. Also, 3 members trekked to the advanced base camp. They did a great job and everyone is safe. Congratulations! Please Read Blog posts and see the beautiful photos and stories: Please click one of the links below to go directly to that blog post or just scroll down.
- 29 May
- 21 May
- 20 May
- 19 May
- 18 May
- 17 May
- 16 May
- 14 May
- 13 May
- 12 May
- 11 May
- 8 May
- 7 May
- 6 May
- 5 May
- 4 May
- 3 May
- 2 May
- 1 May
- 30 April
- 29 April
- 27 April
- 26 April
- 25 April
- 23 April
- 20 April
- 19 April
- 17 April
- 16 April
- 15 April
- 13 April
- 12 April
- 10 April
- 9 April
- 8 April
- Team Roster.
Photo Martin S.
Photo Martin S.
29 May - Most of the team have now left Kathmandu, we had a good few days of celebration in the various bars and restaurants that the Thamel tourist area has to offer. Congratulations to everyone who joined us. It was a great expedition this year with wonderful people and a real privilege, as ever, for me to be able to help people on their Everest journeys.
Each year is different and each year brings its own challenges. I hope that the team will climb together again. I hope that when difficult times come in our day to day lives a reflection of the relative ease of moving through our two months together can help in these situations. There were many insights learnt and many insights shared.
Thank you to all the extended members of the team, the support staff, the sherpas the people who make things happen in the background and without whom these expeditions wouldn't work. Thank you to Sue at Summit Climb HQ.
This years climb I'd like to dedicate to the memory to Ian Toothill, a brave ex soldier, who climbed with us in 2017 with cancer. He sadly passed away of his illness earlier this year.
I hope too that you found this blog useful and entertaining and maybe even found some inspiration to join us one year. Good bye for now. David
21 May - Hi this is David O’Brien. Summit day started just before midnight Chinese time with a general gathering outside our tents, the steep slope angle there is about 30 degrees enough that if you had a slip you could carry on going.
We set of in two groups about 150m apart up the snow and onto a mixed rocky snow section. The wind was stronger than expected and my toes got cold as we got up onto the North East Ridge. Along this ridge Dominic decided to turn around. We carried on up the three steep sections called steps. The wind got stronger as we ascended and was very strong when we popped up at the top of the second step ladder section. Hoods up, time to change oxygen and press onto the third step and the summit.
Magnus got up the third step and but to his huge credit decided to turn around at the bottom of the final snow triangle at about 8700m safety (returning to your family is far more important than any summit).
The rest of us continued up to the summit reaching a little before 9. The wind seamed much stronger than the 20knt forecast. A quick few photo’s and it was time to get going down. Around a skinny ledge and onto the top of the snow triangle, it’s steep and looking down from it seams even more on top of the world than at the summit.
Franz sat in the snow, didn’t want to move and after five minutes or so said he couldn’t see. He had not put his sun glasses on on the way up and was snow blind. This clearly is a shock to hear especially at 8800m. There followed 12 hours of Jangbu and I slowly moving Franz down the ropes. There are many tricky and steep sections to slowly lower and guide him on. There is a very long ledge like traverse at about 8500m of varying heights sometimes a only a boot width wide, at one point Franz fell and took me with him, the ropes and the anchors held but it was quite a scramble to get back up.
We got back into camp 3 at about 9 pretty spent.
Everyone is now safe at base camp, we intend to head to the boarder and then Kathmandu tomorrow.
Karma Gyalze Sherpa
Ang Dorje Sherpa
20 May - Hi this is David O’Brien. We’re all back at Advanced base camp safely. It’s a long walk down from camp 3 with all energy having been spent on the summit day. There is no wind here at the moment at it seams strangely screened apart from the deep lung coughs coming from the other tents around me. We’re heading to base camp tomorrow . Full summit day round up to follow then.
Photo Martin s
18 May - Hi this is David O’Brien. We’re all up at camp 3 although I wouldn’t recommend it as a camp site if you like camping the tents are on so much of a slope that you have to prop yourself up to prevent slipping down to one side of the tent.
Everyone is good and we’re eating and drinking in preparation for our departure for the summit at 11 Chinese the time.
17 May - hi this is David O’Brien, we climbed up to camp 2 today, hot at first and then very windy. Brought back memories of last year. We’re at camp 2 now eating and rehydrating and the winds have died down to almost nothing. Saw a rescue in progress go past us, I’m sure the person will be fine.
The weather for our summit push on the 29 th looks good.
16 May - This is David O’Brien, we’re at the North Col at 7000m melting snow for water and eating dehydrated food. It was very hot today climbing up the wall to the col. The wall forms a huge bowl and the sun seamed to reflect in on us like a m solar oven. Everyone is good and glad to be pushing on with the final climb. Tomorrow shouldn’t be as hot.
14 May - Hi this is David O’Brien , we completed our last walk up to ABC over the endless rocky moraine. Instant noodles and a good chat in the dining tent is the reward.
The word on the street is that the final section of rope has been fixed and the Chinese team are due to summit tonight. We wish them luck . We have a rest day here tomorrow when we’ll run through oxygen protocols and generally eat as much as possible, which is what we’ve been doing for some weeks .
yaks are walking in ABC. Team mates ABC
13 May - It was a lovely morning at base camp, blue sky’s, no wind, Everest looked serene, bathed in a whisp of cloud. We hope well be up there on ra calm day soon.
The final section of rope is expected to be fixed in a day or two and teams will start to summit. It is traditional that the Chinese team summits first and as they are in charge of rope fixing the rest of us know to wait.
We’re currently at interim camp a one horse tent town of a place, used as much by yaks for a stop between bc and abc, as climbers for an overnight sleep on the same route. There is a lot of yak dung here, best avoided for hygiene purposes.
Kipa is in the kitchen tent cooking up chicken curry, dhal, potatoes and rice, it smells delicious.
Hopefully there won’t be too much clanking or yak bells to keep us awake tonight.
Advance base camp everest. Lots of yaks carrying load to ABC.
Yaks at ABC behind Lakpari. Yaks moving along trail to ABC below Everest
12 May - Hi this is David O'Brien. It was movie night again at Summit Climb base camp last night we watched 'I Tonya' a fine film if you haven't seen it yet.
Our sherpas are finalising stocking the higher camps and tomorrow we will head off to ABC aiming for the summit on the 19th, my birthday. We'll be checking weather reports on the way up, at the moment it looks like relatively low winds, hopefully it'll stay that way. Everyone is feeling good and looking forward to the finale summit push.
11 May - Hi this is David O’Brien. We arrived back at base camp yesterday laden with supermarket delights of chocolate , pringles, flavored milk, and a beer or two.
I’ve been to New Tingri many times now but this was a culinary journey like no other. Brendan a China resident really searched out the best of the Chinese regional restaurants ( of which there are many in New Tingri) and ordered food I have never before tasted. The last night was in a Muslim restaurant from the region next to Tibet and amongst other delicacy’s we had a huge centerpiece of chicken and potato stew. Every part of the chicken was included and wow what flavor.
As with all the other establishments we ate in the proprietors took many photos of us , maybe they had never encountered such skinny people who ate so much.
When I get home there’ll be no more of the ‘regular’ Chinese for me , it’s regional and authentic from now on.
8 May - Hi this is David O’Brien. Another sunny days r n r in New Tingri. Fried egg rolls for breakfast, chicken and shredded pork burgers or streamed buns for lunch and all sorts of things including my first and not to be last tripe soup for dinner. There is clearly an eating theme going on here were definitely stocking up on any lost calories.
We had a chaperoned walk around Sigar today and stopped in , yep food shops , and phone shops. Earlier we posed for our new album cover photo “Blow the high life “ which we’ve been rehearsing for, hope to let you all hear what we’ve done soon.
7 May - Hi this is David O’Brien we’re in the delights of New Tingri in a hotel with big comfortable beds , hot water (at least for a few early evening hours) and a basketball court. Our American team mates should win on court tomorrow , although skill might loose out to the German, Australian and British height- check out the result tomorrow.
We dinned at a hot pot restaurant, a shared steaming bowl of peppered, chillied meat and vegetable parts. Chicken head and feet, tofu and apple and assorted pig parts . Very tasty.
6 May - Hi this is David O’Brien. We arrived back at base camp this afternoon, Kipa our wonderful Nepalese cook made us chicken, chips and vegetables followed by giant grapes. Base camp seams quiet, everyone is probably sheltering from the string winds.
We’re all heading down to New Tingri tomorrow (as long as the booked transport arrives). Looking forward to a hotel bed, a bath and a chance to give our clothes a good wash.
5 May - It was indeed windy last night so sleep was difficult with constantly flapping nylon. We’re back at abc having finished our acclimatization rotations. It’s very windy here too and the forecast is for more wind to come. Base camp looks inviting.
4 May - Hi this is David O’Brien, we’re up at the North Col at 7000m in our tents having had plentiful freeze dried dinners and some thick chicken soup. Hopefully the wind will die down tonight or it’ll be tent flappy dreams all around.
3 May - Rest day at ABC, getting gear together, sorting up high clothing , moving tents, discussing world affairs and yak adornments. And mostly eating lots. Chicken rice, cauliflower pakora and tempura pasta, soup and a desert, breakfast and lunch just as big, stocking up in the calories now.
2 May - We’re up at ABC again , it was a beautiful sunny day for the walk up from interim camp. Although only 12 km’s or so it still seams a long way at this altitude . Everyone has acclimatized well which was shown by the team hanging in the dining tent telling stories until the temperature dropped at about 5 . We’ll be back in for dinner at 8 but with a lot more down clothing on.
30 April- Quite a relaxed day today at base camp. Three large meals to ensure we are all fortified for the next acclimatisation round. As we watched a superhero film this evening the snow fell heavily outside I reveal a Christmas like scene for the walk back to our tents. Unusual for a high desert.
29 April - We all had a walk down to the Tibetan tea house village a few kilometers below base camp. There are 50 or so tents run by locals for mainly Chinese tourist to come and hopefully see a cloud free Everest.
This evening before dinner it was talent night . Jokes , poems, stories and a piano app rendition of movie themes. It was good for everyone to get up and do a turn.
26 April - Today was hot and sunny for ourfirst north col rotation. Well done to those who made it
20 April - Two of the ABC trekkers headed to interim camp today , the summit climbers and Lucy will head up tomorrow. We all went for another acclimatisation walk in the beautiful sunshine today. So far we have been blessed with unusually fine weather.
This evening’s dinner was a fine dhal bhat followed by a surprise apple pie, mmmmm delicious.
19 April - This morning our first group of yaks arrived with the chaos of large unruly animals and yak herders weighing our equipment. 40 yaks will take our first load of interim camp and ABC equipment and the sherpas headed off to set everything up.
The rest of us headed up a nearby hill to gain some altitude before heading up to interim camp tomorrow.
17 April - After a leisurely breakfast we spent some hours packing duffel bags in the morning sunshine. Some other team membership came to visit us and it was generally an easy going chatty day getting used to the altitude.
The Sherpas are currently enjoying some well amplified Nepalese dance music in the kitchen tent , I might go in to strut my dance moves shortly
16 April - After a leisurely breakfast and some more shopping in Tingri we drive the 3 hour surfaced road to base camp. A few years ago this was a dusty dirt road that took many more hours.
We stopped in Tashi Som for some more pringle and chocolate shopping and reached base camp early afternoon. The high clouds fully revealed a fairly snow free North Face of Everest. We’re looking forward to a hearty dinner and a some good base camp rest.
Photo the team at the entrance to Everest National Park. Tingri high street with a moody sky
Yesterday we drove from Kyirong up onto the Tibetan Plateau. The road was good and the drive a comfortable one.
We arrived for a late lunch at Tingri (4300m) a small town that has been a stop off and supply point for many historical Everest North side expeditions.
Photo David O’Brien - beautiful clear high desert lake
13 April - It’s the first time that any westerners have crossed into Tibet on this route. It was good to find a path up to a high plain above Kyirong this morning to stretch our legs and exercise our brains.
Our ABC trekker group was held at the boarder crossing yesterday while their permits were delivered from Lhasa by an overnight driver. It’s really good they have joined us today and we will head on as a group tomorrow.
Picture, up at 3650 m (above Kyirong). A cow making good use of the Kyirong cast offs . Photo David O'Brien
12 April - We departed bleary eyed from Kathmandu at 4am this morning to make sure we reached the border crossing with Tibet before it closed.
After a fairly detailed entry process we finally entered Tibet, hurray. Another wait for the newly laid road surface to set and it was off to the Ji Long Hotel in Kyirong for a hearty dinner and hopefully a long restful sleep.
Photo David O'Brien
Last night we had delicious Nepali food and and a lively show from a pantomime yak and yeti. The two person yak came around to all our tables demanding rupee donations in its mouth. I’m not sure if my 50 rupee donation was quite enough as I got a hoof flick from the yaks rear end.
Tomorrow we hope to get our Chinese visas and head to the new border crossing .
- David O'B., UK ( Leader)
- Magnus N. Sweden
- Patrick M. USA
- Brendan M. USA
- Dominic R. UK
- Franz P. Paraguay
- Jonathan L. New zealand/Australia
- Heikki K. Finland
- Martin S. Germany
- Grant M. Australia
Everest Summit Team Member
- Violett S. ,Sweden
- Lucy C. , new zealand/australia
- Sanjay B., Singapore
SummitClimb Climbing Sherpas & Staff -
- Ang Dorji Sherpa
- Ang Pasang Sherpa
- Chhonga Karma Sherpa
- Gelje Sherpa
- Gyalje Sherpa
- Jangbu Sherpa
- Phujung Bhote
- Karma Gyalze Shera
- Kipa Sherpa