Everest Tibet and Lhakpa Ri/ North Col Expedition 2007

Everest Tibet and Lhakpa Ri/ North Col Expedition 2007

(photo by Dan Mazur)
Everest Tibet and Lhakpa Ri/North Col Expedition
29 March to 6 June 2007
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Dispatches:
 
 
 
 
 
25 May, 2007
 
 
5-25 Arnold Coster Everest Tibet transcript 34 Summit Summary

Hello EverestNews.com. This is Arnold again, the leader of the SummitClimb Everest Tibet Expedition. Right now we're packing ABC and we're ready to get back to Katmandu. We had a very successful expedition. From the 15 members who tried for the summit, 13 made it. Here's a short summary of all the people who summated because I think after all the dispatches a lot of people got confused. So here we go-

On the 15th of May, Jean Vandewege from Belgium, Stein Tant from Belgium, Steven Maginelle from Belgium, and Aldas Baltutis from Lithuania summited. They were assisted by Janbgu Sherpa and Tibetan climber Bian Ba.

On the 16th of May summited Phil Crampton from the UK, Kevin Adams from the UK, Martin Barnett from the UK, Michael Hsu from the USA and they were assisted by Tibetan Climbers Yun Dan and Awang.

On the 21st of May, Tunc Fyndic from Turkey summited Everest for the second time, Mustafa Kalayci from Turkey, Matthew Vulk from the USA; they were assisted by Tibetan climbers Chering and Chimi.

On the 23rd of May, Arnold Coster from the Netherlands summited for the second time and is the expedition leader. Ron Hoglin from Canada, second time on the summit, Maya Sherpa from Nepal, second time on the summit, and Jangbu Sherpa from Nepal, five times on the summit and he also summited for us earlier this season on the 15th of May with the Belgians and the Lithuanian members.

So I hope now it's a little bit more clear who summited. I'm really happy that today we go down to Base Camp and load up our trucks to Katmandu and we'll have a big party in Katmandu. So stay tuned for more parting news from SummitClimb, bye bye.
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24 May, 2007
 
 
5-24 Arnold Coster Everest Tibet transcript 32-Arnold Summits!

Hello EverestNews.com. This is Arnold, the leader of the SummitClimb Everest Tibet Expedition. This morning, 9:00 Chinese time, Maya, Arnold, Jangbu and Ruan Hoglin summited Everest. We all summited for the second time. Maya summited before from the South, Ron summited before from the South, I summited before from this same side, and Jangbu already summited a couple of times. The weather was very bad going to the summit. On the summit ridge Maya could barely stand up, so strong was the wind. But with all of our experience we finally made it to the summit safely.

This is the hardest time up on Everest before. I'm kind of happy Everest showed it's size again because all those easy summits are nothing. This was very difficult. I'm cooking now, but I'm really really tired. I can barely stay awake during the cooking. We'll look for you tomorrow again when we're more fresh. But everybody's safe and healthy and we're in a good spot.
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22 May, 2007
 
 
5-22 Arnold Coster Everest-Tibet transcript 31

Hello EverestNews.com. This is Arnold, the leader of SummitClimb's Everest-Tibet Expedition. Right now I'm calling from the highest camp in the world, at 8300 meters, Camp 3 on the north face of Everest. I'm here together with my wife Maya Sherpa, our Sirdar Jangbu, and also Ron is here.
Unfortunately Richard couldn't make it to Camp3, he took to long, so he decided to turn around and he's finished for the summit.

Our plan is to leave 11:00 Chinese time this evening and I hope tomorrow morning we will summit around 7:00 or 8:00. So stay tuned. We are the last group from our team and then hopefully I can call in a few more summits.

The weather is good. It was windy before but now the wind stopped a little bit. So, I think maybe we're lucky. So, you'll hear more from us, bye bye. back to top
 
 
 
21 May, 2007
 
 
 
 
This is Arnold, the leader of the Tibet-Everest Expedition for SummitClimb.

Right now I'm calling from Camp 2 at 7850 meters. I'm here together with Maya, Ron, Richard and our Super Sirdar Jangbu Sherpa. But first the good news-this morning at 5:45 Chinese time in the morning, Tunc, Matt, Mustafa, Chimi and Tsering summited without any problems. They had the privilege and the front seats to see the sunrise on the summit pyramid of Everest. They told me it was the greatest thing they ever saw.

On the way up to Camp 2 we all met the members coming down from the summit and they're doing fine. Matt and Mustafa are probably going to spend the night on the North Col. But our superfast Tunc together with the two Sherpas they'll probably head straight down to ABC to get some good meals.
So, everything is going fine under our summit group, and I'm hoping to call in more summits in a couple of days. But right now, we have 11 members

summited and 6 staff, and that's pretty good I think. So, I hope in a few
days we'll have some more. So stay tuned, bye bye.
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20 May, 2007
 
 
 
 
5-20 Arnold Coster Everest-Tibet transcript 29

Hello EverestNews. This is Arnold, the leader of the SummitClimb Everest Tibet Expedition calling from the North Col around 7000 meters. Today Matt, Mustafa, Tunc, Jianggu and Tsering made it to Camp 3 and they're ready to go for the summit tonight. And I hope tomorrow morning around 8:00 they will summit.

Unfortunately, Walter decided to turn around in the tent. He had some problems with the altitude and he didn't feel comfortable with it. And he made a very wise decision to go down. Right now he is safe in ABC enjoying good food.I'm here together with my wife Maya, Ron, Richard and our super Sirdar Jangbu and we're going to try for the summit on the 23rd if the weather holds.

Also today, all the North Col members walked down to the thick air of Base Camp again, and they're going to leave Base Camp on the 22nd. So, still, the expedition is not finished. Two groups are still trying for the summit and so far everybody is healthy and doing fine and we are enjoying ourselves. So, hope to call you tomorrow again, good-bye.
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19 May, 2007
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
5-19 Arnold Coster Everest-Tibet transcript 28
 
 
 
Hello EverestNews. This is Arnold again, the leader of the SummitClimb Everest-Tibet Expedition. Yesterday, four of our North Col climbers tried to climb to the North Col at 7100 metres. The day started off very hot, it was one of the hottest days so far of the season. After a long way David decided to turn around and decided to head back to ABC together with Maya Sherpa. Andrew, Nick and Bruce continued together with Arnold; around mid-day it started to snow pretty heavily. But the three pushed on to the Col and summited around 5:00. Coming down we were in a complete white out.

It took us three hours to come down to ABC in a complete white out and everybody was pretty trashed.

Everybody is fine and back in ABC now and having a very good long night.

Right now, Tunc, Matt, Walter and Mustafa have gone up to Camp 2 at 7,850 meters to get ready for their summit attempt on the 21st. Tomorrow Ron, Richard, Maya, Arnold and Jangbu will head up for the Col for the last summit attempt team. That group will attempt to summit around the 23rd. So that's it for now, talk to you later, bye bye. back to top
 
 
 
17 May, 2007
 
 
 
 
 
5-17 Arnold Coster Everest-Tibet transcript 27

This is Arnold again, the leader of the SummitClimb Everest-Tibet expedition. Today Michael, Phil, Kevin and Martin came down safely back to ABC from their summit the previous day. They had it kind of hectic coming down, but because of the help of Yun Dan and Awang they all made it back in ABC safely without serious injuries. Our North Col people had a front seat for all of this and tomorrow they will go for their summit of the North Col.

Also Tunc, Mustafa, Walter and Matt will take off from ABC for their summit attempt and hope to summit on the 21st with the help of Tsering and Qiang.

Everything is going very well and I hope tomorrow I can call in a nice story of our summits of the North Col. That's it until then, bye bye. back to top
 
 
16 May, 2007
 
 
 
 
15 May, 2007
 
 
6 SummitClimb Members Summit!
 
 
 
 
 
10 May, 2007
 
 
 
 
 
5-10 Arnold Coster Everest-Tibet transcript 21
 
 
 
This is Arnold, the leader of the SummitClimb Everest-Tibet Expedition. Tomorrow the yaks will arrive to bring the gear up to our people and they will slowly start the ascent of the climb of the North Col. At the ABC Phil, Michael, Aldas and Jianggiu are getting ready for a summit assault on the 12th if the weather stays good. The next summit group will be the Belgians—Bjorn, Stein, Jeff, together with Jangbu and Pemba Sherpa. They are aiming for around the 15th. Tunc, Mustafa, Matt, Walter and Richard are coming back from Chugache tomorrow, and Kevin and Martin are on the way to ABC. They’re going to sit there and see if they are going to have a good chance for the summit.

Yesterday there was a lot of fireworks here in Base Camp, it means the Chinese they reached the summit and a successful expedition with the torch run.

 
Many Congratulations to the Chinese Team!!! Bye bye. back to top
 
7 May, 2007
 
 
 
 
 
5-7 Arnold Coster Everest-Tibet transcript 20

Hello EverestNews.com. This is Arnold, the leader of the SummitClimb Everest-Tibet Expedition. Today five new North Col members arrived to join our expedition and get a basic experience in climbing in the mountains. Climbing the North Col they will join our real Everest team and experience what is going on…

Climbing to the North Col at 7,020 meters is not so hard. And they will experience everything that comes about in a high altitude expedition. They have to trek to ABC first and adapt slowly to the altitude. After that they can leave for the challenging ground to the North Col. During the climb they will see the effects of the lights deep in the valley and once on the North Col they will get a fabulous view of the real heighth. Climbing the North Col is the perfect place to see if you can handle real altitude. These are our new North Col members— Michael from Australia, David from Australia, Bruce from the US, Nick from Australia, and Eric from the UK. We wish them the best of luck!! …bye bye
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5 May, 2007
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
5-5 Kevin Adams Everest-Tibet transcript 18

Correspondent Kevin Adams. SummitClimb Everest North Expedition. Dispatch as follows. Now that we have all gone from the North Col and are enjoying the relative thick air of Base Camp, I thought a few words on the genuine effects of altitude may be appropriate. Firstly, don’t expect to get a good night’s sleep. It’s not just the wind that’s blowing strong against the tent, or the cold shower of ice crystals that rain down on you inside the tent, or having to spin around in your bag every 20 minutes because part or parts of you have gone numb, or even the minus 20 degree Celsius temperature. It’s simply not having enough oxygen to breathe. So you wake up feeling as though you haven’t slept and you start up the ridge for greater acclimatization. It’s easy at first, ten paces later you’re hunched over your ice ax, gasping for breath. As you get higher, you start counting steps, 30 and a rest. Feeling sick, and beyond that it’s three breaths for every step. After four hours you’ve gained four hundred meters of altitude. It feels like you’ve been walking for 12 hours. Then turning around, your legs are like lead. Back at the tent you lay on your back, snow in your face, too tired to care. But you know you love it. Dispatch ends.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
5-5 Matt Vulk Everest-Tibet transcript 19
 
 
 
 
 
Hey this is Matt Vulk with SummitClimb on the North side of Everest. Tunc, Mustafa, Maya, Arnold and myself are back in Base Camp after a crazy windy night on the Col. Most of the night we spent trying to fend off tiny airborne ice particles, listening to the tent fabric snapping and flapping, and keeping toes warm. Next morning we were blessed with a fantastic sight. The contrast of color and light was stunning. 70 to 80 tents mostly yellow and orange were battered by the high winds. One tent danced like a spinning top, all anchors pulled except one, ready to take flight. With the backdrop of pure white snow and the upper ramparts of Everest, the scene took on a surreal, dream-like panorama.

Back at Base Camp, the whole team gathers strength for a much awaited and much discussed summit push. Over and out from Base Camp on the North side of Everest, God Bless…
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2 May, 2007
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
5-2-07 Arnold Coster Everest-Tibet transcript 17

Hello EverestNews.com. This is Arnold, the leader of the SummitClimb Everest-Tibet Expedition. Maya, Richard and me just came down from the Col. So far our whole team except Stein and Walter have spent a couple of days on the Col. Yesterday Richard also finally made it up there. After several unsuccessful attempts, after a long eight hour push, he was able to see the fantastic view and sleep on the Col. Yesterday we also saw the two… climbers coming down from the summit. They made it to the summit without O2, but they used our Camp 2 and the Chinese Camp 3 for their attempt. Coming down from the summit they were so weak that two Sherpas had to help them down and put them on oxygen. The same day the climbers summited, five of Russell’s Sherpas summited fixing rope without any problems.

Our members went down or are going down for a big rest in Base Camp and they are all healthy and strong. Only Maya, Phil and me and kitchen staff are in ABC. Walter’s climbing to the Col today to finalize his acclimatization. He will spend the night there with our super Sirdar Jangbu Sherpa, who’s carrying heavy loads to Camp 2 and Camp 3 everyday to make our summit possible. Until the next dispatch, this is it for now. Bye bye.
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29 April, 2007

Hello EverestNews.com. This is Arnold, the leader of the SummitClimb Everest-Tibet Expedition. Last night, Phil, Martin, Kevin, Bjorn and Stef, together with five of our Tibetan Sherpas slept at the North Col. Today the weather is terrific and the hope is to reach 7500 meters and then turn around to sleep another night at the Col to optimize their acclimatizations. Our Sherpas made a huge carry of supplies to Camp 2 today at 7850 meters. What a surprise—they found another team of private climbers in our tent. Apparently there was some confusion about whose property the tent was. After a short radio call I made it clear that it was our camp and if they were not in an emergency they should put in their own tents.

We also saw the Indian team leaving ABC today. They have to go on to climb to Camp 2 and if everything is right they want to push to the summit and beat the big Chinese team. Tomorrow, Mustafa, Tunc, Matt, Maya and me and all others along will go to the Col to finish our acclimatization schedule. So, so far everything goes very smooth and we didn’t have any big delays yet and this is mainly because our Sirdar Jangbu Sherpa is doing an outstanding job. So that’s it for now, bye bye.
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28 April, 2007
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
4-28 Michael Hsu Everest-Tibet transcript 15

Hello, this is Michael Hsu calling from SummitClimb’s Everest-Tibet 2007 Expedition. On 26 April, Jangbu Sherpa and I were climbing the snowy northeast ridge towards Camp 2. It was a windy day with a festive plume fluttering from the rocky summit pyramid ahead of us. As the snow receded from view, summit dreams seemed on the verge of turning from possibility to reality.

Yesterday after returning from Camp 1 in marvel conditions, I arrived in time to participate in the dedication ceremony of our ABC Puja. Now as our Sherpas start their journeys to the high camps, they have a well made lopsu, or shrine from which to offer their devotions for safety and success. Unfortunately, the Sherpa also died this day on the south side of Everest after being struck by icefall from the Lhotse face.

As for our expedition members, we are in a variety of holding patterns as we try to reach peak acclimatization and perfect timing for our summit attempts. In general to have a reasonable shot at the summit, we must have slept for a night at Camp 1. Today, 28 April, --- Kev, Martin, and Richard left under sunny conditions to sleep at Camp 1 and push on to Camp 2. Phil will keep an eye on them for the next couple of days. Tunc, Mustafa, Matt and Ron will leave two days hence with Arnold and Maya providing oversight. Aldas may return with them for a second time on the ridge.

Walter will be coming up to ABC tomorrow, and Derek is resting up in Shigar for a possible summit attempt. Of course, our plans are highly subject to the vaguaries of weather and the plans of other teams. For now, we as a team are blessed with good health minus a few sniffles and coughs. I hope things are going well at home and please wish us luck as we press high up the mountain. Michael—goodbye.
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25 April, 2007
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
4-25 Arnold Coster Everest-Tibet transcript 14

Hello EverestNews.com. This is Arnold Coster, the leader of the SummitClimb Everest-Tibet Expedition. I’m calling from ABC at 6,400 meters. Two days ago our Sirdar Jangbu Sherpa did a marvelous job of putting Camp 2 in at 7,800 meters. His first try failed because he got stuck in a snow storm and had to return to the North Col. But the second day he made it and pitched four tents at Camp 2. Also, our other Tibetan climbers are doing a fabulous job supplying all the camps after Jangbu put them in. These guys are amazing. I wish we had like 10 Jangbus on this trip. It’s so amazing the job the Sherpas do. Without Sherpas, our expedition wouldn’t be anything.

Also, all of our members are doing fine. Yesterday Martin, Kevin and Richard arrived from ABC. Today Ruan, Mustafa, Tunc, Derek and Walter and Matt are still resting in BC, but they are all coming up pretty soon today at some altitude to get some more red blood cells. After everybody’s slept in Camp 1 on the North Col a couple of days we’re going to try to reach Camp 2. After that everybody will go down for one long rest in Base Camp and after that it’s Summit Time.

So, everything is pretty good and everything is going very smoothly in our camp. There’re no problems, Russell Brice is doing a great job fixing rope to Camp 2 and in one or two days he will fix ropes to Camp 3. So everything is fine. I hope to file more of the experiences of our members high on the mountain. Bye bye.
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21 April, 2007
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
4-21 Arnold Coster Everest-Tibet transcript 13

Hello EverestNews.com. This is Arnold, the leader of the SummitClimb Everest Tibet Expedition calling from Interim Camp at 5,800 meters. Today Michael, Stef,Stein, Bjorn, Maya and me left the comforts of Base Camp behind and walked to Interim Camp. On the way to Interim Camp it started snowing a lot and I think it will snow all night. The good thing about snow is that it is warm in the night.

Matt, Kevin, Ron and Martin, Phil, Tunc and Mustafa are still in Base Camp. They have the same plan as us, which is sleeping on the Col, and then trying to touch Camp 2 within a couple of days later. Today I got the news that the ropes to Camp 2 at 7,800 meters are in and that our Sherpas already established Camp 2 for us.

Derek, Aldas and Matthew are all in ABC. They decided to go on a slower schedule than the others and are climbing to the Col today. Aldas is the fastest climber of our team and he's climbing to the Col again to help his buddy Derek out. I think we have a great strong team this year and all the members are doing fine. So, more on this in the next dispatch. Bye bye.
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18 April, 2007
 
 
 
 
 
4-18 Phil Crampton Everest-Tibet transcript 12

This is Phil Crampton reporting for the SummitClimb Everest-Tibet Expedition. Yesterday April 17, Martin Barnett and I climbed up to the North Col. Most of the other members had already reached the Col and it was Martin that completed the roster. It was my third time to the Col in a week and I was beginning to feel the effects of being at Advanced Base Camp for nearly two weeks.

We had the whole mountain to ourselves for the first couple of hours, until the Sherpas from various expeditions caught up with us. There had been some snowfall the night before and this makes the route up to the Col harder than usual, with Martin and I taking turns breaking the trail. Upon reaching our campsite I proceeded to dig tent platforms so we could erect some more tents.

A sole independent climber was seen following Martin up to the Col and I believe he was shocked at what he saw. Most of the larger teams send Sherpas ahead to erect tents and rope off the required area needed on the Col for their campsites. This procedure has been done for many years and is one of the unwritten rules of the north side of Everest. I have a lot of respect for independent climber who wish to attempt Everest without the help of Sherpas. I offered this sole climber a tent platform in our campsite area at most above the immediate Col where we were, but he refused. He then proceeded to move the boundary ropes of the four combined Chinese expeditions against the advice of myself and the Sherpas who served other expeditions who were also erecting tents.

The Chinese take their territory very seriously and have even erected a fence around their Base Camp with armed military personnel minding the entrances. For the record, there are plenty of campsites on the Col, a little further up just past the large team campsites. This is Phil Crampton, Everest-Tibet 2007.
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17 April, 2007
 
 
 
 
 
4-17 Arnold Coster Everest-Tibet transcript 11
 
 
 
 
Hello EverestNews.com. This is Arnold, the leader of the SummitClimb Everest-Tibet Expedition 2007. This is just a short message to say everybody is safe in Base Camp. All our members climbed up to the North Col and now everybody is resting in Base Camp. Some are enjoying the sun, others are doing their laundry, other people are looking at the teahouses for souvenirs. But everybody is doing fine.

After a couple of days, everybody will go up to ABC again and we will try to sleep at the North Col and push a little harder to Camp 2. But now, it’s just relax and enjoy our break. So, more news later. Bye bye. back to top
 
 
 
 
 
15 April, 2007
 
 
 
 
 
4-15 Kevin Adams Everest-Tibet transcript 10
 
 
 
 
Kevin Adams, SummitClimb Everest North Side, dispatch as follows: When you cross onto the East Rongbuk Glacier from Advanced Base Camp the mighty North Col stands beside and before you--a huge white canvass, permeated with rupturing ice flows, crevasses, and cornices. Concentrations of black dots diagonally cross the surface, climbers and Sherpas weaving too and fro with supplies. When you become one of these black dots, pulling yourself up a 30 foot pitch of blue ice on nine millimeters of rope, you have truly arrived on the mountain.

To date Aldas, Phil, Ruan, Don, Tunc, Mike, Kevin, Arnold, Mustafa, Maya and Martha have all stood on the North Col at 7000 meters. Dispatch ends.
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14 April, 2007
 
 
 
 
 
4-14 Michael Hsu Everest-Tibet transcript 9
 
 
 
 
 
Hello, this is Michael Hsu and Richard Sibley, calling from the SummitClimb Everest-Tibet Expedition. We are calling from the Advanced Base Camp, where most of our climbers have gotten back together after pursuing slightly different schedules over the past several days. Everyone is pretty healthy, and we sent several climbers up to the North Col today to practice climbing on the fixed ropes, and during that time Aldas Baltutis became the first Westerner to make it to the North Col camps this season so far. Everyone is doing pretty well and we’ll look forward to talking to you again either from Advanced Base Camp or Base Camp. Take care, bye. back to top
 
 
 
 
 
14 April, 2007
 
 
 
 
 
4-14 Kevin Adams Everest-Tibet transcript 8
 
 
 
 
Correspondent Kevin Adams, SummitClimb Everest North Climb, dispatch as follows: At Intermediate Base
Camp, the group decided on their own personal strategies—to go down to Base Camp, stay, or go up to Advanced Base Camp. The path to ABC is as peaceful as it was hard. Giant seracs line the high path, which was easy going, but constantly gaining altitude. The scenery changed with bright sun and snow showers. As we drew level with the valleys and the last of the light, we could see whole armies of seracs ahead of glaciers, waiting to descend. We often had to step off the path to make way for the yak trains. And I at least, enjoyed the brief rest. As we drew nearer to the ABC at 6,400 meters, every step and every breath was hard, but the wonderful reception we received from Phil and the view of the North Col made it all worth while.

Guides Arnold and Maya, climbers Aldus, Derek, Mike, Dan, Steven, Nartha, Hardy and myself Kevin are all looking forward to the rest of the group coming up to ABC. Message ends.
SummitClimb-Everest-Tibet 2007 CORRECTED Roster and Staff

Arnold Coster-Leader
Phil Crampton-Assistant

Team Members
Matthew Vulk.
Ben Stuckey
Richard Sibley
Michael Hsu
Ron Hoglin
Martin Barnett
Kevin Adams
Walter Reisinger
Tunc Findic
Mustafa Kalayci
Aldas Baltutis
Dereck Davey
Bjorn vandewege
Steven Maginelle
Stein Tant

Staff
• Jangbu Sherpa, Sirdar
• Kipa Sherpa, Head cook
• Nima Dorje Lama, assistant cook
• Maya Sherpa, female Sherpa
• Yun Dan, Tibetan climber
• Awang Denzing, Tibetan climber
• Gongga, Tibetan Climber
• Bian ba Tsering, Tibetan Climber
• Jianggiu, Tibetan Climber
• Qiang Ba. Tibetan Climber
• Lousang Ouzhu, Tibetan Climber
• Sangjie, Tibetan cook
• Qiangba, Cookboy
• Guru, Cookboy.
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10 April, 2007
 
 
 
 
 
Phil and Ben reports in for the expedition

Two separate live reports

Phil reporting in:

Transcription:

This is Phil Crampton reporting for the SummitClimb Everest-Tibet Expedition. Yesterday, April 8, Yun Dan, Gongga, and myself made a carry to the North Col. I should rephrase that. I actually didn’t make it. My crampon broke at the foot of the Col and I think that the Tibetan Sherpas think it was a purposefully wardrobe malfunction. Anyway, the two Tibetan Sherpas continued up the Col and cached the tent site.

Presently, there’s only the Chinese established at Camp 1, and we should all begin in a couple of days in carrying more tents. The wind it is very strong and especially cold here at ABC. This left us unable to erect tents at ABC as we were afraid we would be without them on our next trip to the North Col. Arnold and the rest of the group have left Base Camp this morning, and should be spending the next two evenings at the Interim Camp, IBC. Our Sherpa Sirdar, Jangbu, he should be arriving at ABC today, so I think on the 11th we should have the group all as one again. We will report more in a few days.

Ben reporting in:

Transcription:

This is Ben Stuckey with the 2007 SummitClimb Everest-Tibet Expedition. Today is our fifth day in the mountains and our first day above Base Camp. We started the day with a great breakfast at Base Camp and then we packed our bags and left for Intermediate Base Camp located at 5800 meters or 19,000 feet. The hike today had us following the glacial moraine and a beautiful pine valley into Intermediate Base Camp. As we got higher and higher, the rock and debris covered glacier gave way to beautiful ice seracs jutting out of the ice, sometimes up to 18 meters or 60 feet tall.

After a hike of 11 kilometers, or around 7 miles, we established our camp with the summit of Everest looming ever closer. All but two members made the move to Intermediate Base Camp today, as they wanted to have just one more day at Base Camp to improve acclimatization. Hopefully they will be able to join us here tomorrow. The plan is to spend two full days here at Intermediate Base Camp before tackling the final 11 kilometers or 7 miles, so we can all move to Advanced Base Camp at 6400 meters, or 21,000 feet. Who knows what the next few days will bring, but one thing’s for sure. We’re now camped on the lower slopes of Everest, the highest peak on Earth. Until next time, thanks for following our quest to reach the top of the world. Bye bye.
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8 April, 2007

Michael Hsu reports in from Base camp
 
 
 
 
 
Transcription:
 
 
 
 
 
Hello, this is Michael Hsu calling in for SummitClimb’s Everest-North Expedition. We arrived at the Base Camp at 12:30 on 5 April. So far there are not too many other teams here, but more trickle in each day. The Chinese, camped to our East, have quite a large contingent of 200 plus people, both from their army and from their official climbing organization. They will practice carrying a torch in front of them in anticipation of next year’s Olympic Games. The Indian Army team is also camped next to us.

On 6 April, Ron, Aldas and I hiked halfway up the moraine towards Interim Camp, reaching 18,000 feet. It felt pretty good despite having only reached Base Camp yesterday. Our other climbers will go on similar acclimatization hikes in the next several days. At BC, we have a large communal mess tent big enough for all 21 climbers. We have a wide range of backgrounds on our team. Four are planning climbs nearby, but not necessarily summit Everest. We are aged between 31 to 52 and have been climbing seriously for as many as 17 years or only seven months. One of our climbers has summited all 54 peaks over 14,000 feet in Colorado. Another guest has summited over 60 mountains including seven summits of Denali. Three of our climbers have already summated Everest from the South. Our two Turkish climbers helped guide on Mt. Ararat and are also mountain rescue experts. We have one doctor who has been selflessly looking out for our climbers who occasionally feel ill. We also have a couple of military and ex-military climbers.

On the 7th we had our Puja, an hour-long Tibetan Buddhist ceremony praying for the safety and success of our team. Today on the 8th we have been assembling and packing our gear for tomorrow’s seven miles of climb up to Interim Camp at 19,000 feet. After two nights there we will head up another seven miles to Advanced Base Camp at 21,000 feet. Our climbing Sherpas have already established our camp at ABC and have dropped off our tents and camp supplies at the North Col. I’ve been happy to see many of the same great cooking staff we had for our Fall 2006 Cho Oyu Expedition. We’ll try to call from ABC sometime over the next couple of days. Thanks for your prayers and support.
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7 April, 2007
 
 
 
 
 
Steven Maginelle reports in from Base Camp
 
 
 
 
 
Transcription:
 
 
 
 
This is Steven Maginelle, member of the SummitClimb Everest-Tibet 2007 Expedition. After an amazing trip over the Tibetan Plateau we arrived at Base Camp the 5th of April. Weather was extremely good these days, with a lot of awesome pictures as a result. These first days at 5,200 meters are quite hard for most of us. Some seem to have no problems yet. Some people need some time to get used to the altitude, but today everybody looks and acts much better.

Today early in the morning we ran down to the Monastery to have the Puja ceremony which was followed by a lovely hour of caving and scrambling around the monastery. Actually, we had the opportunity to visit the Lama’s hiding place during the Chinese occupation. I’m enjoying every moment till now and wish all of my colleague climbers the best for the next few weeks.
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6 April, 2007
 
 
 
 
 
Phil reporting from Base Camp
 
 
 
 
 
Transcription:
 
 
 
 
This is Phil Crampton reporting for the SummitClimb Everest-Tibet Expedition 2007. Yesterday, April 6, we arrived at ABC, Advanced Base Camp. We were scheduled to arrive here on April 3, but unfortunately the CTMA had changed some of the rules involving the Yaks and we had to wait an extra three days down at Base Camp. Presently, there’s only us and the Chinese groups at ABC and the weather is extremely windy and extremely cold.

On our arrival we could see a trail from the foot of the Col to the top and we believe the Chinese have already fixed the route up to the Camps. Tomorrow we’re going to go and investigate and possibly carry loads and establish Camp 1 with Yun Dan, Gongga and myself. Arnold and the group arrived at Base Camp on the 5th. Everybody’s in good health and they’re enjoying some cheerful good acclimatization days down there and they’ll be heading up to ABC interim camp and then ABC in the next five to seven days.

My last dispatch was cut short due to technical problems. I said that the Xinjiang Beer Tent was a 20 minute walk from our Base Camp tent. It is about a 30 to 40 minute return journey.
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6 April, 2007
 
 
 
 
 
Arnold reporting from Base Camp
 
 
 
 
 
Transcription:
 
 
 
 
This is Arnold, the leader of the SummitClimb Everest-Tibet Expedition 2007. This morning we left Tingri for a rough ride to the Base Camp area leaving civilization far behind us. So right now, all the members are in Base Camp at 5,200 meters. Everybody is doing fine and is healthy. Today we also met Phil, who went before us and made a great set up for us. Tomorrow all the members will relax and get cozy in the camp. This camp is going to be our home for the next 55 days. On the 7th we will have a big Puja at the Rongbuk Monastery to get our expedition blessed. So, until that, this is it, and you will hear more from me on the 7th. Thank you for following our expedition. back to top
 
 
 
 
 
5 April, 2007

 

Hello everyone! Thank you for following our expedition. This is Ben Stuckey reporting for the Summitclimb Everest North 2007 team. We are currently in Nyalam, Tibet situated at the base of the Tibetan Plateau at

12,100'or 3800m. Since our last report the entire Everest North team has made our way from Kathmandu and we have entered Tibet/China. The border crossing from Nepal into Tibet/China went very well and there were no major problems. Some of our members were still missing baggage that never arrived in Kathmandu. The great news is that all missing luggage and climbing gear has made it safely to us here in Nyalam.

 

 

Today was a rest and acclimitization day so myself and a few other members went for a stroll up to 14,300'or 4400m where we caught our first glimpse of Shishapangma the 14th highest peak in the world standing just over 8000 meters high. The plan for the next few days is for the team to travel across the Tibetan Plateau to the small town of Tingri located at 14,100'or 4200m. We will spend 2 days there so as to allow our bodies to adapt to the increasingly thin air. From there we will finish the final portion of the 1st stage of our journey to climb Mount Everest. We will slowly make our way to basecamp located at 17300'or 5200m. We will send our next dispatch from there in 3 days time. Every team member is doing well, feeling great and having fun. Thank you for following our climb to the top of the world. back to top

4 April, 2007

 

Hi there , here is a dispatch phoned in by Arnold and transcribed by Rob Maynard:

 

This is Arnold, the leader of the SummitClimb-Tibet Expedition 2007.


Today we spent our last day in Tingri at 4350 meters. The weather is absolutely fabulous and it was great fun. Everybody just chilled out and hung out in the village.

Tomorrow in the morning we'll reach the Base Camp, then we will spend like four days in Base Camp at least before we go higher. Everybody is looking forward to go up high and I hope there are some great climbing stories soon. So you'll hear from me soon, bye bye.
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3 April, 2007

 

Hello everyone! Thank you for following our expedition. This is Ben Stuckey reporting for the Summitclimb Everest North 2007 team. We are currently in Nyalam, Tibet situated at the base of the Tibetan Plateau at 12,100'or 3800m. Since our last report the entire Everest North team has made our way from Kathmandu and we have entered Tibet/China. The border crossing from Nepal into Tibet/China went very well and there were no major problems. Some of our members were still missing baggage that never arrived in Kathmandu. The great news is that all missing luggage and climbing gear has made it safely to us here in Nyalam.

 

Today was a rest and acclimitization day so myself and a few other members went for a stroll up to 14,300'or 4400m where we caught our first glimpse of Shishapangma the 14th highest peak in the world standing just over 8000 meters high. The plan for the next few days is for the team to travel across the Tibetan Plateau to the small town of Tingri located at 14,100'or 4200m. We will spend 2 days there so as to allow our bodies to adapt to the increasingly thin air. From there we will finish the final portion of the 1st stage of our journey to climb Mount Everest. We will slowly make our way to basecamp located at 17300'or 5200m. We will send our next dispatch from there in 3 days time. Every team member is doing well, feeling great and having fun. Thank you for following our climb to the top of the world. back to top

 

31 March, 2007

 

Phil reports in

 

Transcription:

 

This is Phil Crampton reporting for the Summitclimb Everest Tibet Expedition 2007. Kipa Sherpa, our head cook, and myself, herald ahead of Arnold and the rest of the group to establish Base, Intermediate and Advance Base camps. After spending our customary two nights at Nyalam and one night at Tingri we arrived today, March 30, at Base Camp.

Our journey was uneventful and we have enjoyed the peace and quiet of the empty CTMA hotels. The wait-staff at the restaurants are overhead full at the moment. I wonder if it will be the same in a week or so when the groups of climbers pass through on their way Everest, Cho Oyu and Shisipangma Base Camps respectively.

At Tingri, we met our Tibetan Sherpa staff, which consists of kitchen assistants Sangjie, Champa and Guru, and climbing Sherpas Awang Denzing, Yun Dan, Qiang Ba, Jianggiu, Emba, Seng and Pemba

On our arrival at Base Camp I met many old Chinese friends from the various Chinese expeditions already at Base Camp. We are one of the first western expeditions to arrive, and I think that I am the only non-Tibetan, Nepal, or Chinese citizen here at present. We have already started sorting our loads for our trek to ABC in a couple of days and we hope the weather remains as mild at 6,400 meters as it has been here all day at Base Camp, although my money is on it being absolutely freezing as it has been in the past on my little sorties to ABC in late March and early April.

It was a hard decision on where to place our camp this year as we have mustered our other cook, Dong, in charge of the kitchens of the Chinese Xinjiang Beer Expedition. They are about a 20 minute walk from us.
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27 March, 2007

I will be leading Summitclimbs Everest Tibet expedition this year.

After succesfully scaling Everest from Tibet in 2004 and two expeditions from the south in 2005 and 2006, I am in Tibet once again to help my team members scaling Everest this year.

This is our team:

  • Arnold Coster, expedition leader
  • Crampton Phil, assistant
  • Matthew Vulk.
  • Ben stuckey
  • Donald Sibley
  • Michael Hsu
  • Rauno Hoglin
  • James Barnett
  • Paul Adams
  • Walter Reisinger
  • Tunc Fyndic
  • Mustafa Kalayci
  • Aldas Baltutis
  • Andrew Davey
  • Bjorn vandewege
  • Steven Maginelle
  • Stein Tant

Right now I am very busy with all the preparations her in Kathmandu. Tomorrow morning a truck full off supplies will head to Everest basecamp already. The truck will meet our Tibetan staff in BC to set up our camp. On this trip we will use a mixed Sherpa and Tibetan team as our staff

Our staff members are:

  • Jangbu Sherpa, Sidar
  • Kipa Sherpa, Head cook
  • Nima Dorje Lama, assistant cook
  • Maya Sherpa, one of the few female Sherpa's
  • Yun Dan, Tibetean climber
  • Awang Denzing, Tibetean climber
  • Gongga, Tibetean Climber
  • Bian ba Tsering, Tibetean Climber
  • Jianggiu, Tibetean Climber
  • Qiang Ba. Tibetean Climber
  • Lousang Ouzhu, Tibetean Climber
  • Sangjie, Tibetean cook
  • Qiangba, Cookboy
  • Guru, Cookboy.

So that is it for now, the next couple of day our member will arrive in sunny and warm Kathmandu.

Cheers, Arnold back to top

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