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Climb Shishapangma - Easy 8000 Metre Peak Expedition

  • shishapangma photos Member Summit Shishapangma. Photo Grace.
  • shishapangma photos Climbing near the Gendarmes on our summit attempt at around 7600 metres/25,000 feet. Photo Dan Mazur
  • Shishapangma climb Member hiking around Nylam. Photo Max
  • shishapangma photos Our team nearing the Gendarmes at 7600 metres/25,000 feet. Photo Max Kausch
  • shishapangma photos Everest massif seen from Shishapangma. Photo Max Kausch
  • shishapangma photos Way to camp 2. Photo Max Kausch.
  • shishapangma photos Camp 1. Photo Max Kausch.
  • shishapangma photos Yaks leaving Shisha Pangma. Photo Max Kausch
  • shishapangma photos Member climbing up to camp 2. Photo Max Kausch
  • shishapangma photos Our interim camp at about 5200 metres/17,000 feet. Our team is about halfway between basecamp and ABC. Photo Dan Mazur
  • shishapangma photos Our tents buried at camp 1. Photo Max Kausch.
  • shishapangma photos Members trekking to ABC Photo Grace McDonald.
  • shishapangma photos Our team heading up from ABC to camp 1 at 6200 metres/20,300 feet. Photo Dan Mazur
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  • Dates and Cost: 20 April to 27 May OR 29 August to 5 October 2017. 38 days in Tibet & Nepal.
  • Full Service Cost: $14,850, £11,150, €13,250; Basic Climb Cost: $8,850,  £6,950, €8,250
  • Dates and Cost: 4 - 19 October (Cho Oyu Comb). Spring Cho Oyu Combo Also Available.
  • Full Service Cost: $11,850, £8920, €10,600; Basic Climb Cost: $7,080, £5,560, €6,600
  • New Flexible Date Option: arrive anytime at your convenience during April-May or September-October
  • Combine it with Cho Oyu. Climb Shishapangma in just 14 days and save 20%.
  • Full service includes: Sherpas, hotels, drive to basecamp (bc), yaks to advanced basecamp (abc), ropes, good food on trek, in bc, abc, & climb, group climbing equipment, tents, radios, satphones, etcetera.
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  • Leader: 5 time Cho Oyu summiter Dan Mazur. & Dani Fuller . In 2014 - 15 on the summit. 11 used supplementary bottled oxygen. 4 did not . Cho-Shisha double-header 100 percent success.
  • The lowest of the world's fourteen 8000 metre peaks, located in Tibet, near Everest.
  • A great way to test yourself at a very high elevation in only 38 days.
  • Climbing Shishapangma qualifies you for Everest from Tibet, Everest from Nepal and Lhotse.
  • Drive to basecamp experiencing the unique culture of the Tibetan plateau.
  • Add an exotic and historical trip to the ancient Tibetan city of Lhasa.
  • Make a ski or snowboard descent of Shishapangma during the September – October expedition.




Recent News: Our Shisha Pangma Expedition has just returned with all 6 members and 2 sherpas reaching the summit. Our trekking members also walked to ABC and even higher. Click here to read news of our expedition, listen to audio dispatches, and view recent photos of the climb. 
 
Some members ski Shishapangma (it is much better for skiing than Cho Oyu ), as it has a north facing slope which is wind protected between camp 2 and camp 1/2. The snow is often best there and it's on the climbing route. 
 
Please view our new Shishapangma video clips. 
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Shishapangma Programme Description

Please click one of the links below to view that section of our introductory information or just scroll down (photo right by Dan Mazur: The trail to advanced basecamp at 5400 metres/17,700 feet).

Shishapangma Programme Description:
  • Introduction: Shisha Pangma, known in Tibetan as "the god of the grasslands", is the lowest of the world's fourteen 8000 metre peaks. It is also the only 8000-meter peak located wholly in Tibet. After an early attempt, it was first climbed in 1964 by a Tibetan-Chinese expedition and was opened to foreign climbers in 1978. The peak originally carried a Hindustani name: Gosainthan. People have descended it on skiis and for our next expedition, we are planning to offer a ski/snowboard descent option for those interested. The skiing and snowboarding are best in the camp 1 and camp 2 areas. Snowshoes or racquettes may be nice to have.
    • Our proposed schedule allows for a careful and safe ascent, as well as multiple full descents to advanced basecamp (photo right by Dan Mazur: Climbing near the Gendarmes on our summit attempt at around 7600 metres/25,000 feet).
    • The style of climbing is cautious and careful, with excellent leadership, organization, Sherpa climbers, 'walkie-talkie' radios, satellite telephones, the best oxygen bottles (many members do not use oxygen) and apparatus available, cooks and waiters, tasty food, the best equipment, individual tents for each member in basecamp, a full kitchen in basecamp plus advanced basecamp (ABC), 4 camps on the mountain, 1000s of metres of fixed line, hundreds of rock, ice and snow anchors, top-quality high altitude tents and high altitude stoves, expedition mix gas, and full safety equipment: medical oxygen, gamow bag, and extensive medical kit.
    • This expedition maximizes experience gained over three prior Shishapangma expeditions with a strong record of reaching the top and descending safely. In addition to more than 25 Himalayan expeditions we have an intimate knowledge of the Tibetan officials who regulate the permit system, liaison officers, sherpas, cooks, yak drivers, and hoteliers/restaurateurs. back to top
  • Leader and staff: During the drive, trek, in basecamp, ABC and on the climb, our experienced staff is with you all of the way. Our helpful climbing sherpas are some of the best. They are real high-altitude star-performers and very friendly. Our western leader is a highly experienced, friendly, and well-organized professional with multiple ascents of Shishapangma. Our skillful basecamp and ABC cooks prepare delicious, fresh, tasty food and hot drinks at least 3 times a day (photo right Dan Mazur: Looking up the route to camp 1 at 6200 metres/20,300 feet).
    • On trek: Our western leader, together with friendly and helpful sherpas, cooks and local people leading yak caravans carry all of your personal equipment, group equipment, and set up camp each day, prepare and serve delicious meals, so you can relax and enjoy the trek. You do not need to carry a heavy rucksack during the trek.
    • Our comfortable basecamp and ABC: Our cooks and waiters will serve you delicious meals in our heated dining tent.
    • On the mountain: Our western leader and group sherpas will fix the route, set up the high camps and carry the group equipment, such as tents, stoves, etc. If you wish to help out, we welcome you to do so, otherwise just relax and focus on getting well acclimated and achieving your goals. You do not need to carry a heavy rucksack during the climb.
    • Sherpas: We have many group sherpas to help the team. For an additional expense, we can also provide personal sherpas and climbing-guides to individual members who wish to have their own private sherpa. We now encourage members who wish to have a lighter rucksack to hire a 1/4 of a sherpa to help with high altitude equipment transport, carrying your extra weight both up and down the mountain. For information about hiring a personal sherpa, please click here to learn more. back to top
  • Shishapangma National Park: The park is situated among rolling, vast green short-grass and boulder strewn valleys leading up to the base of the mountain. The environment is beautiful and stark, inhabited with wild birds and animals. Upon reaching basecamp, you trek towards the mountain, where the vegetation changes to become more alpine and rocky, with the mountain looming upwards and provides great views of the vast Tibetan plateaus and two of Tibets most famous sacred lakes. Plants in the park range from spruce, pine, a wide variety of evergreen trees, as well as coldbelt grasslands. Many precious animals inhabit Tibet, such as antelope, deer, fox, gazelles, yaks, and many species of birds (photo right by Dan Mazur: Our comfortable basecamp at 5000 metres/16,400 feet. From here it is a two day trek to reach ABC).
  • Drive to basecamp: Our drive from Kathmandu, into Tibet and finally to basecamp is a relaxing and interesting adventure. We stop in medieval looking towns with dirt streets, experience Tibetan culture, while stopping to walk each day or so in the beautiful surrounding hills to acclimate to the rising altitude. It offers a great chance to encounter the vast Tibetan plateau and the surrounding Himalayan Giants. We end at base camp at 5000 metres/16,400 feet. Along the way we stay and eat at rustic hotels at the organizer's expense. back to top
  • Lhasa option: If you wish to add on a tour of the ancient city of Lhasa before arriving at basecamp, this is easily arranged so please let us know. Most people will prefer to fly to Kathmandu first to take advantage of the excellent equipment shopping there, then fly to Lhasa. The price includes a spectacular flight from Kathmandu to Lhasa over the Mount Everest massif. Some people prefer to fly to Lhasa from another city in China and we can also assist you with these arrangements.
  • Basecamp and advanced basecamp: Features your own private sleeping tent that will be all your own, not needing to be shared with anyone. We have comfortable, heated dining tents with tables and chairs where our cooks and waiters will serve you delicious meals.
  • Trek to advanced basecamp: A beautiful trek to the base of the 14th highest peak in the world. This trek is very accomplishable by the average person who enjoys walking. Normally, you never step on snow and there is no climbing, only walking on moraine trails. Advanced basecamp is located at 5400 metres/17,700 feet on the north foot of the mountain (photo right by Dan Mazur: camp 2 at 6700 metres/22,000 feet on top of the plateau).
  • Climbing to the high camps:
    • After ABC we walk along the lateral moraine of the Shishapangma Glacier, and at 5800 metres/19,000 feet, we cross the glacier to a flat area with many serac formations. We climb a skiable/snowboardable "headwall" at 20-34 degrees to camp 1 at 6200 metres/20,300 feet.
    • The route from camp 1 follows the bottom of a big glacial valley, then climbs another skiable/snowboardable "headwall" at about 30 degrees to a massive plateau where camp 2 is located, at about 6700 metres/22,000 feet.
    • From camp 2, we cross a large plateau before climbing a gradual slope at about 8-15 degrees. We then climb a marginally skiable/snowboardable headwall at 28-38 degrees dotted with rocky outcroppings starting at 7100 metres/23,300 feet, until we reach camp 3 on a protected and safe rock-crowned flat buttress at 7400 metres/24,300 feet. back to top
  • Rest Days: We will be taking a lot of them throughout the expedition. During your rest days we encourage you to concentrate on recovering, eating and drinking, to read, relax, listen to music and stroll around visiting other teams (photo right by Dan Mazur: Looking towards the true summit from the central summit at 8000 metres/26,200 feet.)
  • Summit Attempt: From the high camp, we ascend a fairly steep snow and rock ridge, past two huge gendarmes at 7600 metres/25,000 feet, and climb across snow slopes to the solid snow "knob" that tops the central summit at 8007 metres/26,262 feet. There is usually a tiny surfboard sized flat spot you can perch upon, take summit photos, and soak up the scenery. From here you are greeted by incredible views of Everest, Cho-Oyu, the Tibetan plateau, and so many kilometres of mountains that it will be difficult to absorb the site.
  • Who is this trip for?
    • We encourage men and women from around the world, of all ages to join us as an individual team member or with your own group, whether that is your spouse, partner, friends, sibling, clients, colleagues, etc. Most of our members join as individuals, our team dynamics work well, and we are able to build successful and safe groups that enjoy trekking, climbing, and traveling together (photo right by Dan Mazur: Our team in ABC).
    • You should have previous high altitude climbing experience (such as Lhakpa Ri / North Col, Ama Dablam, Mustagata, Aconcagua, Denali, or other).
    • To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active winter-walker-climber in good health. Prior to joining, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice. back to top
Please "click" one of the links on the column on the upper right of your screen under "Shishapangma" to learn more about our expedition.

Mount Shishapangma Expedition Climb Cost

Our “full-service” expedition includes:

  • Leader: Cost includes a very experienced and qualified British, European, or American leader;
  • Climbing Sherpas for the group;
  • Transport to base camp for you and equipment to/from Kathmandu, including accommodation and meals on the road;
  • Yak transport of all equipment from the road to and from advanced basecamp;
  • Three hot meals per day in base camp. Comfortable tables and chairs and dining tent;
  • Skillful base camp cooks;
  • All mountain, and base camp food;
  • All permit fees and liaison officers;
  • Use of group gear and supplies: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection; base camp and altitude tents; cookers, fuel, high-altitude food, walkie-talkie radios, solar charging system etc;
  • Emergency equipment and supplies: medical oxygen, gamow bag, base camp medical kit, high-altitude medical kits, etcetera;
  • In addition to our top-quality high-altitude tents, we now provide an individual tent (1 tent per person) in base camp.
  • Your trip includes 2 free Kathmandu hotel nights at the beginning and two free Kathmandu hotel nights at the end of the trip. You will be sharing. If you want your own single room, the cost is an aditional $32 per night (during the included four free hotel nights) and for extra nights $65 per person for single occupancy. Please bring extra cash to pay for your extra nights and / or your single supplement. We often stay at the comfortable three star Hotel Shakti. Its an excellent and classic hotel surrounded by green gardens and located in the heart of the city action near many delicious restaurants, the city's best mountain equipment shopping, and abundant nightlife all within a few minutes walk. The Shakti also offers lots of entertaining day trip (and night outing) options such as city tours, walking tours, rock climbing, mountain biking, wild game safaris, horse back riding, art classes, volunteer opportunities at orphanages, hospitals, schools, women's centres, bird watching, cooking classes, sport fishing, day peak climbing, herbal medicine seminars, day hikes, pottery classes, car tours, sightseeing, temple tours, henna handpainting classes, massage, swimming, beauty salon, motorbiking, yoga retreats, river rafting, painting classes, golf, language courses, kayaking, writing seminars, bungie jumping, religious worship, canyoning, hot tubs, health club, saunas, fitness center, spa treatments, Mount Kailash Treks, night clubs, meditation retreats, gourmet restaurants, cultural dance performances, wine tasting, pedicures and manicures, casino gambling, barber shop, discotheques, airport transfers, Scenic flights around Mount Everest and much much more. Meals in Kathmandu are at your expense.

Organization: During this full-service expedition, you will benefit from the organization provided by Dan Mazur. He is a relaxed, friendly and well organized person, and a highly-skilled professional with years of experience in getting people to the summit and back down with the highest attention to safety. He has been leading and organizing successful and safe overland, trekking, and mountaineering expeditions for over 20 years, to Tibet, Nepal, Tadjikistan, Pakistan, India, China, Africa, and North America. For more about Dan, please "click" on the Leadership link

Sherpas and Equipment Transport: Our expedition includes transport of all of your equipment from Kathmandu to advanced basecamp, and returned to Kathmandu. We could also bring you to basecamp from Lhasa, Tibet. More and more members are choosing to take the Lhasa option. While climbing on the mountain, we  try not to ask our full-service members to carry heavy group equipment (although it is an option if you really want to), such as tents, rope, fuel, food, etcetera. We employ climbing sherpas, and high-altitude porters, to carry group equipment and supplies. For a minimal expense, we can also provide personal sherpas and climbing-guides to individual members who wish to have their own private sherpa or personal climbing-guide. We now encourage members to hire a 1/4 of a sherpa, to help with high altitude equipment transport, both up and down the mountain.

Full personal-private sherpas-

      • For those who do not wish to carry their own rucksack, or prepare their own meals and drinks above basecamp, we offer full personal-private sherpas (or, you may wish to share one with another member). A personal sherpa climbs and camps with you at all times and carries approximately ten kilos/22 pounds of your personal belongings. He also helps with boiling water and making your meals on the mountain. The cost of hiring a personal-private sherpa is as follows.
  • A Nepalese sherpa is available for: $5450 USD.
  • High altitude "personal-equipment-carriage-service"-
  • Divide the above prices by four if you would like to have approximately 10 kilos of your personal equipment carried up and down the mountain, between camps. You must provide a 48 hour notice while on the mountain. Although the price is less than the full personal-private sherpa, the "personal-equipment-carriage-service" does not involve the additional services provided by the full personal-private sherpa. This service is mainly to help get equipment up and down between camps. If you need more help than this, please consider hiring a full personal-private sherpa.

Chinese truck taking our equipment towards basecamp (Roland Debare).

Oxygen: You should consider whether or not you wish to use supplemental oxygen. About half of our Shishapangma team members do. It's not like Everest where oxygen is absolutely necessary, but some Shishapangma climbers like it because it gives them a little extra edge of "insurance" that they will be feeling as well as possible when resting in the high camp and on summit day, both climbing up to the summit and on descent. In addition, supplemental oxygen usage has been shown to markedly reduce the incidence of frostbite. Our sherpas will try to help you carry the oxygen, and a couple four-litre bottles should be more than enough, and you also need the mask, hoses, and regulator. Or, you can have the full set of three bottles, which includes mask-regulator-hoses (as well as carriage up to the high camps by our sherpas). All of the equipment is guaranteed to work well together, and it is easy to use, with simple threaded and snap-on fittings which require no tools. We have a 30% buy back policy bottles on unused oxygen, and masks, hoses, and regulators in good condition.

Here are the costings:

  • A. Three bottle set (we recommend a three bottle set for Shishapangma): $2150 USD. The price includes three large 4 litre Russian Oxygen bottles, mask-regulator-hoses (as well as carriage up to the high camps by our sherpas). We have a 30% "buy-back" policy on masks, regulators, and unused oxygen bottles in good condition. Extra bottles: $510 USD each.
  • If purchased separately:
  • B. Mask + Hoses (guaranteed to be in proper working order and match the bottles and regulator perfectly): We have a 30% buy-back policy on masks and hoses in good condition. $285 USD.
  • C. Regulator for high-altitude oxygen bottle (guaranteed to be in proper working order and match the bottle and mask and hoses perfectly): We have a 30% buy-back policy on regulators in good condition. $485 USD.
  • D. One large Russian Oxygen 4 litre bottle for high-altitude climbing (guaranteed to be in proper working order and match the regulator and mask and hoses perfectly): We have a 30% discount buy-back policy on unused oxygen bottles. $510 USD each.

Note: You may have to carry some or all of your own oxygen on summit day, as well as up and down the mountain. If possible, the group sherpas will help stock the high camps, as well as share in carrying extra bottles during summit attempts. If you are concerned you might not be able to carry your own oxygen, you may wish to hire a personal sherpa. 

Oxygen buy-back policy: We have a 30% discount buy-back policy on unused oxygen bottles, regulators in good condition, and masks and hoses in good condition. Refunds take 90 days to process from the pre-planned expedition date to process.

Cooks and Food: On the road we eat in the local restaurants as available. In basecamp and advanced basecamp our skillful and hard working cooks prepare three hot meals each day with a very healthy diet of fresh vegetables, cheeses, eggs, and fresh as well as tinned fruits, meats and fish (all meats and fish are prepared separately out of respect for the vegetarians in our midst). They supply you with unlimited hot-drinks, the key to successful acclimatization. We have large weather-proof kitchens and dining tents, with comfortable chairs and tables. On the mountain, above advanced basecamp, we provide you with abundant and nutritious locally available quick-cooking food, so that you may prepare at least three meals and lots of hot drinks each day, in our specially designed high-altitude stoves using our butane-propane expedition mix fuel.

Above advanced basecamp all of our team members cook their own food unless they have a personal sherpa to cook for them. For more about personal sherpas, please click here.

We provide you with a special high altitude stove and fuel canisters. Our stoves are of the "hanging" type, designed to be used inside the tent (well ventilated of course). We have found these to be the best possible stoves for high altitude use, as it is essential to cook inside the tent during stormy weather. Our stoves are suspended above the floor so you have room to sit comfortably and warmly in your sleeping bag while cooking.

Our high altitude fuel is of two types. Above 7000 metres/23,000 feet we use imported propane/butane 250 gramme canisters. Below 7000 metres/23,000 feet we refill the canisters with propane gas. Liquid fuel does not work above 6000 metres/19,700 feet so we don't use liquid fuel above basecamp or advanced basecamp.

Group Equipment: We provide a plethora of top-quality, and time-tested equipment, group gear, and supplies, including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection; basecamp, advanced basecamp and altitude tents; cookers, fuel, high-altitude food, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. We now provide an individual tent for each member in basecamp, so you do not have to share. We also have shower and toilet tent for Basecamp. Please see the above EQUIPMENT link, to study what we bring for your use and safety.

Staff: Our staff, working together as "Everest Parivar Expeditions, Pvt. Ltd." led by the experienced and influential Mr. Murari Sharma, are hospitality experts and have, for the last 21 years, been arranging overland tours, safaris, raft trips, treks, mountain climbs, trek support staff, cooks, peak climbing permits, satellite phone permits, video and film-making permits, translators, liaison officers, climbing Sherpas, oxygen, helicopter flights, air tickets, equipment purchase/hire, storage, import/export, shipping, customs clearance, transport bookings, advance hotel bookings, visas, repatriations, and permits.

Safety: BOTH full-service and basic expeditions are allowed access to our extensive communications equipment, medical supplies, first-aid kits, medical oxygen, and a gamow bag in case of emergency. Thank you for being a well-prepared and safe team member! back to top

*What is not included?

  • Your Nepal visa is conveniently purchased by you upon arrival at the Kathmandu airport. It is not necessary to purchase a Nepalese visa prior to landing in Nepal. In 2013, the cost of a 90 day visa was $100 USD & 30 days visa cost $60. Please bring cash and 2 extra passport-sized photos (extra photos are necessary to obtain the visa in the airport). Because the expedition is in Tibet, we provide special support to you in Kathmandu in organizing your Tibet-China visa. Be ready to pay up to $220 USD (US citizens) and $165 USD (non-US citizens) for your Tibetan visa. It may be cheaper, but we will tell you and provide a receipt. Thank you. Please Note: Your passport must be valid for at least 6 months fom the END of the expedition and contain at least 2 blank pages.
  • Additional expenses like bottled or canned drinks on the trek, tips and gratuities, and expenses of a personal nature (ie: laundry or gift shopping) are not included. back to top

* Our "basic climb" includes:

  • All permit fees and liaison officers;
  • Transport to base camp to/from Kathmandu, for you and personal equipment only (boots, ice axe, clothing, sleeping bag), including accommodation and meals on the road;
  • Yak transport for personal equipment only (boots, ice axe, clothing, sleeping bag) from the road to and from advanced basecamp;
  • A walkie-talkie radio is provided to stay linked-in with the leader of the full service expedition while on the mountain;
  • Emergency equipment and supplies: medical oxygen, gamow bag, base camp medical kit, high-altitude medical kits, etcetera;
  • Access to team fixed ropes and camps (sites, not tents), coordinated with our own "full-service" climbing team.
  • Other necessary services and supplies (ie: extra yaks, trek services, basecamp meals, high altitude services and equipment), may be purchased and hired at minimal expense. We offer basic climb "packages" as noted below, or, we can furnish individual items such as tents, stoves, gas, food, etcetera.
  • Airport transfers from Kathamandu Tribhuvan International Airport to your hotel and back at the end of the expedition.
  • Your trip includes 2 free Kathmandu hotel nights at the beginning and two free Kathmandu hotel nights at the end of the trip. You will be sharing. If you want your own single room, the cost is an aditional $32 per night (during the included four free hotel nights) and for extra nights $65 per person for single occupancy. Please bring extra cash to pay for your extra nights and / or your single supplement. We often stay at the comfortable three star Hotel Shakti. Its an excellent and classic hotel surrounded by green gardens and located in the heart of the city action near many delicious restaurants, the city's best mountain equipment shopping, and abundant nightlife all within a few minutes walk. The Shakti also offers lots of entertaining day trip (and night outing) options such as city tours, walking tours, rock climbing, mountain biking, wild game safaris, horse back riding, art classes, volunteer opportunities at orphanages, hospitals, schools, women's centres, bird watching, cooking classes, sport fishing, day peak climbing, herbal medicine seminars, day hikes, pottery classes, car tours, sightseeing, temple tours, henna handpainting classes, massage, swimming, beauty salon, motorbiking, yoga retreats, river rafting, painting classes, golf, language courses, kayaking, writing seminars, bungie jumping, religious worship, canyoning, hot tubs, health club, saunas, fitness center, spa treatments, Mount Kailash Treks, night clubs, meditation retreats, gourmet restaurants, cultural dance performances, wine tasting, pedicures and manicures, casino gambling, barber shop, discotheques, airport transfers, Scenic flights around Mount Everest and much much more. Meals in Kathmandu are at your expense. back to top

Add the following services to the basic climb:

  • Basecamp & ABC: kitchen, cooks, meals, dining, toilette, shower and sleeping tents: $2950 USD.
  • High altitude leaders, sherpas, tents, equipment, walkie-talkies, food, stoves, fuel, etcetera: $3350 USD.
For more about our basic climb, please visit our "Notes for Basic Members". back to top

shishapangma cost

 The whole Shishapangma team at basecamp (Grace McDonald).

Please ask any questions regarding cost at info@summitclimb.com.

Mount Shishapangma Expedition Detailed Climbing Itinerary

Please click one of the links below to view that section of our Shishapangma daily itinerary or scroll down. If you choose to do the Lhasa option, please note the slight itinerary alterations on days 3-7.

If you are planning on climbing both Cho Oyu and Shishapangma, please view our: Shishapangma Itinerary for Combined Cho Oyu Expedition

Please also visit our Shishapangma route description for more about what to expect on the drive from Kathmandu, during the climb itself, etcetera.

Note: This is a proposed schedule, which has been developed through previous trips. The actual itinerary of your trip can differ depending on such factors as weather and local conditions. For example, the trip may finish earlier than these dates, or we may need every single day of the schedule. Thank you for being patient and flexible when coming to a foreign country like Nepal and Tibet.

Arriving in Kathmandu:

1) Arrive Kathmandu (1300 metres/4200 feet). Hotels in Kathmandu at your own expense;

2) Hand over passport to China Embassy, begin processing of Chinese Visa. Training and equipment review at hotel in Kathmandu;

Lhasa option: Fly from Kathmandu to Lhasa (Tuesday, Thursday, or Saturday, but this could change) or if you coming from a city in China, arrive in Lhasa this day. back to top

Driving to Basecamp:

3) Begin Expedition! Bus to Zhangmu, Tibet (2500 metres/8200 feet); drive to Nyalam (3750 metres/12,300 feet). Transport, restaurants and hotels in Tibet, at organizer's expense;

Lhasa option: Rest in Lhasa, tour Potala Palace and Jokhang Temple, the most sacred building in all of Tibet.

4) Rest in Nyalam (3750 metres/12,300 feet). Walk in the surrounding hills, hang out in the Tashi Amdo teashop. Hotel;

Lhasa option: Drive to Shigatse. Rest and acclimate, tour the surrounding area. Visit the 15th century Tashilunpo Monastery, the largest active monastic institution in Tibet.

5) Drive to Tingri at 4,300 meters/14,100 feet. Hotel;

Lhasa option: Drive to Lhaze. Rest and acclimate, tour the surrounding area. Visit the Changmoche Monastery.

6) Rest & Acclimatization in Tingri at 3900 metres/12,900 feet. Hotel;

Lhasa option: Drive to Tingri. Rest and acclimate, tour the surrounding area.

7) Drive to Chinese Base, 5000 metres/16,400 feet, Camp;

8) Rest at Chinese Base; back to top

 

Moving to Advanced Basecamp:

9) Walk halfway to advanced base camp, camp at 5200 metres/17,00 feet;

10) Rest day at "interim-camp";

11) Walk to advanced base camp at 5400 metres/17,700 feet. Rest;

12) Rest, training, and organization at advanced base camp; back to top

Climbing Shishapangma:

13) Walk to camp 1 at 6200 metres/20,300 feet, return to advanced base camp;

14) Rest in advanced base camp;

15) Walk to camp 1, Sleep;

16) Explore the route to Camp 2 at 6700 metres/22,000 feet. Return to advanced base camp;

17) Rest in advanced base camp;

18) Rest in advanced base camp;

19) Walk to camp 1 and sleep there;

20) Walk to camp 2 and sleep there;

21) Explore the route to camp 3 at 7400 metres/24,300 feet. Return to advanced base camp. Rest;

22) Rest in advanced base camp;

23) Rest in advanced base camp;

24) Rest in advanced base camp;

25) Walk to camp 1 and sleep there;

26) Walk to camp 2 and sleep there;

27) Walk to camp 2 and sleep there;

28) Walk to camp 3 and sleep there; back to top

 

Summit Days:

29) Summit attempt;

30) Summit attempt;

31) Summit attempt;

32) Summit attempt, descend to camp 2; back to top

 

Going Home:

33) Descend to advanced base camp, pack and prepare to depart;

34) Final packing, walk down from advanced base camp to Chinese base,

35) Drive from basecamp to Tingri and spend the night;

36) Drive from Tingri to Kathmandu;

37) Celebration Banquet. Packing and final shopping in Kathmandu;

38) Say Good-bye to your new friends, Departure for home. back to top

Shishapangma itinerary for combined Cho Oyu expedition:

9-23 October (days 1-3 below are the last 3 days of the regular Cho Oyu itinerary).

1) Arrive in Kathmandu after finishing Cho Oyu. Give passport to Chinese embassy for visa number 2;

2) Rest in Kathmandu;

3) Rest in Kathmandu;

4) Drive to Nyalam;

5) Drive to basecamp;

6) Walk to advanced basecamp;

7) Climb Shishapangma;

8) Climb Shishapangma;

9) Climb Shishapangma;

10) Climb Shishapangma;

11) Climb Shishapangma;

12) Climb Shishapangma;

13) Climb Shishapangma;

14) Climb Shishapangma;

15) Walk down to basecamp;

16) Drive to Kathmandu;

17) In Kathmandu (extra day);

18) Fly home. back to top

Mount Shishapangma Expedition Climbing Route Description

Please click one of the links below to view that section the route on Shishapangma, or scroll down.

Introduction-

Shisha Pangma, known in Tibetan as "the god of the grasslands", is the lowest of the world's fourteen 8000 metre peaks. It is also the only 8000-meter peak located wholly in Tibet. After an early attempt, it was first climbed in 1964 by a Tibetan-Chinese expedition and was opened to foreign climbers in 1978. The peak originally carried a Hindustani name: Gosainthan. People have descended it on skiis and for our next expedition, we are planning to offer a ski/snowboard descent option for those interested. The skiing and snowboarding are best in the camp 1 and camp 2 areas. Snowshoes or racquettes may be nice to have.

This expedition to Shishapangma maximizes our previous successful ascents on the peak itself, plus many years of accumulated wisdom of the high Himalaya, a strong record of reaching 8,000 metre/26,500 feet summits, along with an intimate knowledge of the Tibetan and Chinese officials who regulate the permit system. We must also give credit to our highly experienced and hard-working leaders, sherpas and staff. back to top

Itinerary-

The proposed itinerary allows enough time for proper acclimatization, rest days, and several returns to advanced base camp, where the kitchen and base camp staff can look after all of your needs, and quell your appetite. The weather at this time of year is normally quite good and stable. However, we all know the global weather is changing, and in case of storms, you will note the proposed itinerary includes extra days as well. In previous expeditions, half of those who reached the summit needed every single "extra" day.

Weather-

At low elevation, the temperatures can vary from 27°c to -7°c ( 80°f to 20°f). At higher elevations, the temperature can vary from 16°c to -23°c (60°f to -10°f). The wind is the most chilling factor, and can be quite variable, with everything from a flat calm, to hurricane force on the summit. There may be deep snow, heavy rains, mosquitoes in wet areas, blowing dust, burning heat, bright sunshine.
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Arriving in Kathmandu-

The trip begins in the ancient and colorful city of Kathmandu (you could also start in Beijing). You stay in a comfortable, simple, clean, hot-water hotel, at minimal cost and sample some of the very reasonably-priced tasty Nepalese, Tibetan and Western-Style cuisine, available at the hundreds of local restaurants. During your free days in Kathmandu, while your Chinese visa is being processed, you shall finalize arrangements, purchase and hire the bits of equipment you might be missing at the hundreds of mountain-climbing and trekking equipment shops in the neighborhood (with low prices, as well), and take time out for trinket hunting, with suggested visits to explore the 17th century splendors of the Monkey Temple, the Durbar Square and old Kings Palace, as well as the ancient cities of Patan, and Bakhtapur. If you are concerned about the altitude and have purchased Diamox (acetylzolamide), which is inexpensively available with no doctor's prescription in Kathmandu, this might be the time to begin taking it. back to top

Optional Tour of Lhasa-

Some members wish to add an optional trip to Lhasa before reaching basecamp. If this includes you, most members will fly to Kathmandu first, then to Lhasa. Some people prefer to fly to Lhasa from another city in China and we can also assist you with these arrangements. For those flying from Kathmandu, you take a 1 hour and 45 minute flight in a jet over Mt. Everest and the spine of the Himalaya, arriving in Tibet's capital city. In the past, we have had some fabulous views out of the plane windows during this flight. 

At 3650 metres/12,000 feet of elevation, Lhasa was established around 600 AD on the banks of the Brahmaputra River. The heart of the city is centered around the Jokhang Temple, the most sacred building in all of Tibet. Our simple hotel is not too far from the famous Potale palace, Jokhang palace and the renowned Barkhor Market, where you can shop for exotic handicrafts and religious art from all across Tibet, China, and Buddhist India.

After flying to Lhasa, upon arrival you will rest for 2 nights and one day. It's important that you use the rest day to get acclimated to the high altitude.

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Buddhist pilgrims from Amdo region circumambulating the Jokhang Temple in the Barkhor market. Photo: J. Otto.

It is a three day drive from Lhasa to basecamp. From Lhasa, you will set out in government cars across the Tibetan plateau to meet the rest of the team in Shishapangma basecamp.

The following morning after your day in Lhasa, you will drive to Shigatse at 3650 metres/12,000 feet, the second largest city in Tibet, with a famous Monastery. The road winds along the massive Brahmaputra River, past traditional warren-like Tibetan farm towns. In Shigatse, you can have a look around and try to visit the 15th century Tashilunpo Monastery, the largest active monastic institution in Tibet. Monks in maroon robes seem to be everywhere, going about their daily chores, praying, and practicing ceremonial music performances.

After Shigatse, you will make the scenic drive to the ancient city of Lhaze (Lhatse), at 4000 metres/13,100 feet . At the western end of town is the small Changmoche Monastery, which you may visit while there. You can see interesting views of the surrounding Tibetan plateaus and hills.

From Lhaze, it is another scenic drive to Shishapangma basecamp, where you will meet up with the rest of the team. back to top

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The Tashilunpo Monastery in Shigatse, where more than 700 monks live and worship in the Buddhist religion. (Photo: J. Otto)

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A Tibetan farmer brings his goods to market on the road near Lhaze. (Photo D.L. Mazur)

Driving to Basecamp-

Early in the morning you set out in a bus for the last Nepal town of Kodari at 1,770 meters/5,800 feet. If you are concerned about the altitude and have purchased Diamox (acetylzolamide), which is inexpensively available with no doctor's prescription in Kathmandu, this might be the time to begin taking it. For more information about Diamox, please click here.

You clear Nepalese customs and immigration, then hire local porters and vehicles to carry your bags across the Bota Kosi River on the Friendship Bridge, to Zhangmu, the gateway town in Tibet. Upon entering Tibet, the clocks immediately go forward by 2 ¼ hours. Your liaison officer will meet you in Zhangmu. After clearing Tibetan customs and immigration, a Chinese bus takes you up the windy road through the rolling hills to Nyalam town at 3,750 meters/12,400 feet, and a basic "hotel". The smaller towns in Tibet are generally simple and rustic places, and this one is no exception.

The topography here is quite interesting in that you are perched in the transitional zone where the Tibetan plateau rams into the Himalaya, then drops into the forested valleys and jungles of Nepal, and finally out into the Gangetic plain of the Terai and India. You stay over one extra day and night in Nyalam, to help adjust to the altitude. During your rest day in Nyalam, you might wish to hang out in the Tashi Amdo teashop, and enjoy a variety of pleasant treks on the hillsides, as well as explore some interesting small Buddhist gompas (temples). back to top


Yaks taking us to ABC at 5600 metres/18,480 feet (Roland DeBare).

The following morning, after what for many is a relatively sleep-free night, you drive to Shishapangma base camp at around 5,000 meters/16,400 feet. The drive follows a dirt road and has spectacular views of the Himalaya. You will rest for a day in Chinese base, to allow for packing and acclimatizing. back to top

Moving to Advanced Basecamp-

You then spend two days moving up to the "advanced basecamp" at 5400 metres/17,700 feet, which is actually the true base camp for our climb. From here, you will complete your climb of Shishapangma, not returning to Chinese base until your expedition is finished.

Vehicles drop us at 4600 metres/15,000 feet. It's a one or two day walk to basecamp (sinclair, hume, pappenfus collection). Advanced base camp lies on the north foot of the mountain at 5400 metres/17,700 feet (sinclair, hume, pappenfus collection).

Climbing Shishapangma-

After organizing our advanced basecamp, we start the task of climbing up and down the mountain, together with our Sherpas, preparing camps and acclimatizing. back to top

High Camps-

After ABC we walk along the lateral moraine of the Shishapangma Glacier, and at 5800 metres/19,000 feet, we cross the glacier to a flat area with many serac formations. We climb a skiable/snowboardable "headwall" at 20-34 degrees to camp 1 at 6200 metres/20,300 feet.

The route from camp 1 follows the bottom of a big glacial valley, then climbs another skiable/snowboardable "headwall" at about 30 degrees to a massive plateau where camp 2 is located, at about 6700 metres/22,000 feet (photo right sinclair, hume, pappenfus collection: Camp 2 at 6700 metres/22,000 feet).

From camp 2, we cross a large plateau before climbing a gradual slope at about 8-15 degrees. We then climb a marginally skiable/snowboardable headwall at 28-38 degrees dotted with rocky outcroppings starting at 7100 metres/23,300 feet, until we reach camp 3 on a protected and safe rock-crowned flat buttress at 7400 metres/24,300 feet. back to top

Climber nearing the Gendarmes at 7600 metres/25,000 feet (sinclair-hume-pappenfus collection). Camp 2 at 6700 metres/20,300 feet on top of the plateau (Dan Mazur).

Summit Day-

From the high camp, we ascend a fairly steep snow and rock ridge, past two huge gendarmes at 7600 metres/25,000 feet, and climb across snow slopes to the solid snow "knob" that tops the central summit at 8007 metres/26,262 feet. There is usually a tiny surfboard sized flat spot you can perch upon, take summit photos, and soak up the scenery. From here you are greeted by incredible views of Everest, Cho-Oyu, the Tibetan plateau, and so many kilometres of mountains that it will be difficult to absorb the site.

Just under the west summit at 7852 metres/25,750 feet (sinclair-hume-pappenfus collection). This is the central summit at 8007 metres/26,263 feet (sinclair-hume-pappenfus collection). Looking toward the true summit from the central summit (sinclair-hume-pappenfus collection).

Very few climbers have reached the "true summit" of Shishapangma, which is perched further along a wicked double-corniced snow ridge that would require many hours of delicate traversing on an unstable knife-edged snow ridge. We may try to reach the true summit depending on time and conditions on the mountain. back to top

Going Home-

After packing up all of your equipment, supplies, and rubbish, you will make a short return trek and drive to Nyalam, have a feast at the restaurant and stay in the hotel. The following morning, you are up early, and drive all the way down to Zhangmu, hire porters to carry everything over the Friendship Bridge, then catch a bus into Kathmandu, where you can enjoy a hot shower and a grand Nepalese western-style feast. In Kathmandu, you can have a day to relax, celebrate, tour the valley, write postcards, and do a bit more shopping, before heading home. We hope you had a safe, enjoyable, and successful adventure. Thanks for joining in! back to top

At our celebration upon return to Kathmandu. We had quite a welcome home party for the members and staff, who placed these silk scarves, known as "Kattas" around our necks, to honour us and wish us good luck in our return journey to our homes. Arnold, Maya, and Ryan, our leadership team. Roland, Caroline, and Jacques (Caroline and Jacques were married shortly afterward), the Belge and two French. back to top

Thank You for joining our Shishapangma Expedition.

Mount Shishapangma Expedition Climb Leadership & Staff

Leadership: A very experienced and qualified British, European, or American leader;

Note: Our leaders are not guides. They are there to coordinate the expedition and may or may not climb with you personally on the mountain. Our leaders will try to do everything they can to help you, but it is your responsibility to have the skills, strength, equipment, etcetera to do this climb. If you are unsure, you may wish to hire a personal sherpa.

Organization: Organization: During this full-service expedition, you will benefit from the organization provided by Dan Mazur. He is a relaxed, friendly and well organized person, and a highly-skilled professional with years of experience in getting people to the summit and back down with the highest attention to safety. He has been leading and organizing successful and safe overland, trekking, and mountaineering expeditions for over 20 years, to Tibet, Nepal, Tadjikistan, Pakistan, India, China, Africa, and North America. For more about Dan, please "click" on the  Leadership link above.

Sherpas: We hire Sherpas and high altitude porters in a support capacity, and now have 23 of these very experienced, friendly, strong, helpful, and loyal people on our staff, including some of Nepal and Tibet's best climbers and some of Nepal's only women Sherpas. Some of our Sherpas have been to the summit of Shishapangma more than 5 times. One of our lady sherpas just became the first Nepalese woman to reach the summit of Ama Dablam, Pumori, and Cho Oyu. Many of our sherpas have personally assisted foreign climbers to the summits of more than ten of the highest peaks in the Himalaya.

Note: We strive to provide one group sherpa for each 3-4 members. The group sherpa's duty is to carry group equipment such as tents, rope, food, and gas up and down the mountain. Group sherpas help to setup and take down camps. They are also there to try to assist in any rescues, so the other members may not have to give up their summit attempt to rescue a sick member. They may not be available to climb with members and in some instances, you may be called upon to help carry group equipment and help with group work. If you need more sherpa assistance, we encourage you to hire a personal sherpa.

For a minimal expense, we can also provide personal sherpas and climbing-guides to individual members who wish to have their own private sherpa or personal climbing-guide. We now encourage members to hire a 1/4 of a sherpa, to help with high altitude equipment transport, both up and down the mountain. For more information about hiring a personal sherpa, please click here to learn more.

Tibetan Mountain School-We have been working with the Tibetan Mountain School to educate and train extremely strong and helpful Tibetan climbers, staff, and cooks. They have climbed Everest Tibet, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma , Mustagata , Nojin Tangla and many other summits together with us. They are not only adept and fearless climbers, but they are also learning to cook and their English is getting better. They were born and raised in Shegar, Tibet, a town which lies above 4000 metres/13,100 feet.

Our awesome Tibetan Sherpa team at Cho Oyu ABC at 5600 metres/18,400 feet, with Tunc (pronounced "toonch"). He is a strong friendly climber from Ankara. Here is what SummitClimb leader Phil Crampton has to say about the photo: "The names are from left to right: Wangdu (from Lhatze, Tibet), Tsering Dorje (Nyalam), Tashi Tsering (Shigatse), Tunc Findik (Turkey) and Aden (Shegar). Tunc has climbed Lhotse , Pumori, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Everest from Tibet and guides on Elbrus. All the Tibetan climbers came from the Tibetan Mountain School in Lhasa and have climbed Everest from Tibet at least once with Tashi making the summit three times. SummitClimb have been supporting the school since day one.

Staff: Our staff, working together as "Everest Parivar Expeditions, Pvt. Ltd." in our busy agency office in Kathmandu is led by the experienced and influential Mr. Murari Sharma. They are hospitality experts and have, for the last 21 years, been arranging overland tours, safaris, raft trips, treks, mountain climbs, trek support staff, cooks, peak climbing permits, satellite phone permits, video and film-making permits, translators, liaison officers, climbing Sherpas, oxygen, helicopter flights, air tickets, equipment purchase/hire, storage, import/export, shipping, customs clearance, transport bookings, advance hotel bookings, visas, repatriations, rescues, and permits.

Photo Right Caption Top row from Right: Murari K. Sharma - Everest Parivar Exp. Pvt. Ltd(MD), Jangbu Sherpa - Climbing Sherpa, Pemba Sherpa - High Altitude Kitchen Boy, Dorjee Lama - High Altitude Kitchen Boy, Tempa Sherpa - Basecamp Kitchen Boy, Krishna Rana Marag - Trekking Guide, Deha K Shrestha - Manager. Bottom row from left; Jens Vogel, Kandu Sherpa - Lady Trekking Guide, Cho-Wang Sherpa - Friend, Maya Sherpa - Lady Climbing Sherpa.

Our staff in Kathmandu are available to assist you 24 hours per day, seven days per week. It does not matter which day nor at what time you arrive or depart Kathmandu, they will meet your flight, take you to the hotel, help you find essential things like money changing, shopping, arrange tours of the city, etcetera.

We need individuals interested in becoming climbing leaders. The Leader-in-Training Programme is open to individuals to participate in any of the mountain expedition climbs offered by SummitClimb.com. If you are already a professional mountain guide, we are glad to offer you a 10% discount. We provide this on all trips to UIAGM, MLTB, AMGA, BMG, and all other certified climbing guides from every nation. Thank you for joining our team.

Our leaders, staff, and sherpas look forward to serving you on our expeditions to form a successful team and create a rewarding experience.

Mount Shishapangma Expedition Climb - Your Experience & Training

Please "click" one of the links below to go directly to that information or scroll down.

Team Member Experience:

You should have previously climbed on a high mountain (such as Ama Dablam or Lhakpa Ri / North Col).

Our goal is to work together as a team so that all members reach the top safely. We do not expect you to be expert (although some members are) but, nor are we a climbing school (although we do conduct one or two days of training at the beginning of each expedition, please see below). If you need fundamental technical training, and snow and ice experience, we urge you to participate in our Glacier School held each spring and autumn. Members need to have experience in being part of a team, working toward a common goal, and be ready to work with the group and be a good "team-player".

Our leaders and our team-climbing-sherpas are there to ensure (for our full-service members) you make it up to the summit and back down safely. However, this is not a guided expedition (although you could hire your own personal guide, sherpas, etcetera), and team members are expected to be able to care for themselves in a winter-camping and climbing environment. Although Shishapangma is considered to be one of the world's most accessible 8000 metre peak, there are hazards present, and members must have experience in roped rock and ice climbing techniques (to protect from falling down the mountain or into crevasses), and have winter-condition climbing experience in the greater ranges of the world, including placing and retrieving anchors, belaying, abseiling, glacier rescue and avalanche awareness. It is also required that all members will have knowledge of altitude sickness, frostbite, and the recognition of their symptoms, prevention, and treatment. When traveling above ABC, all members must climb with another team member or Sherpa at all times.

We welcome you to join our expedition as an individual and most of our members do. We plan to assemble our team members into groups so you should not have to climb alone, although occasionally it may happen. By the way, we are unable to accommodate 'soloists' who are not willing to climb together with other team members or sherpas from our team. The main expectation is that members will be prepared to climb with a team member or sherpa above basecamp if possible. This practice ensures that the entire team has a fun, successful, and safe time on the mountain. back to top

Fitness and Health:

To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active winter-walker-climber in good health. Prior to joining our group, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in extremes of altitude, and also for exotic locales.

Note: You can purchase all necessary medicines inexpensively with no doctor's prescription in Kathmandu. Please make sure you have physically trained yourself very thoroughly before joining this climb of one of the highest peaks in the world. For a list of the medications we recommend you purchase, please click here . We look forward to climbing together with you! back to top

Training Prior to the Expedition:

  • Firstly, you should always consult your doctor before starting a rigorous exercise plan.
  • In the beginning, to see how you handle the training, and to avoid muscle strains that could slow your training down, you may wish to use shorter more frequent but less taxing workouts, and take more rest. After you get "up to speed" as it were, you could increase the rigour. Older climbers and walkers please take note of the latter. Also remember that swimming is an excellent form of training because it does not put stress upon your joints. Thank you.
  • In order to train well for your trip you should work toward excercising 3 to 4 times a week for between 40 minutes and an hour and a half each time. You should expect to work hard, and try to keep your heartrate quite high and your breathing quite heavy.
  • Adequate rest and a well balanced diet are also essential to avoid injury and illness before the expedition. You should sleep at least 8 hours per night, and eat 3 nutritious meals a day. Don't forget that you will perspire when you train, so try to drink at least 4 litres/quarts of water a day.
  • You may wish to engage the services of a personal trainer, who could help you to fine tune your fitness to a higher level while minimizing strain and maximising your potential in ways you might not have imagined. Personal trainers can also be a great motivator, as you and the trainer have your weekly session, thus you will feel an incentive to complete your planned fitness programme for that week.
  • Utilising both gym equipment and the great outdoors will provide a more balanced exercise programme. You should try to accomplish at least half of your workouts outside. This could include walking and running (On stairs and hills too) and cycling, but above all should be fun! Hillwalking and climbing with a pack weighing 5-10 Kilos/10-20 pounds is essential. If you don't have hills, why not go for stairs, bleachers, viewing stands, stadiums, even the stairways in tall buildings? Don't forget to spend time directly working the muscles of the legs, back and shoulders, and remember that your own body weight can be just as effective as weights, or machines.
  • About 6 weeks before the expedition departure date, you may wish to do 1 full day each week of hill walking, climbing or an equivalent, with a light rucksack. On that day, you would want to eventually work toward six-eight hours of continuous walking or climbing up and down hill, with 4 to 6 separate ten minute breaks and a 1/2 to 1 hour lunch break midway through.
  • To minimize the chance of injuring yourself, consider starting with a half day and then if you do well, increase to 2/3, then eventually to a full day, once a week.
  • We want you to arrive for your expedition in top shape, so please take plenty of rest and do not over-do it.
  • Hint: when carrying a rucksack while descending, walking, or climbing down-hill, try carrying a bit less in your rucksack in order to save your knees. Many trainers advise carrying water bottles up the hill then emptying them at the top so your rucksack is lightened for the trip down. back to top

Training During the Expedition:

  • Upon arrival in Kathmandu and in the base camp, ALL full-service and basic-climb members are requested to participate in one to two days of orientation to how the trip will be operated. There will be plenty of time for discussion, question answering, and for equipment review and purchasing. Training will be conducted both in Kathmandu and in basecamp in the areas of climbing techniques, glacier travel, rope fixing, ascending, descending, safety techniques, rappels (abseils), belaying, medical equipment and procedures, communications equipment, camping techniques and high-altitude cooking. For the expert and beginner alike, it is important to review these techniques in order to enhance skills, ensure safety-awareness, and work together as a team.

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We hope that you will arrive for your Shishapangma Expedition in good health, both mentally and physically prepared, so we can work together as a team and have a successful expedition.

Mount Shishapangma Climb - Personal & Team Equipment

Below is a detailed list of equipment you need to bring for Shishapangma and at the bottom is a description of team equipment that we bring for you. (Click Link below to go directly to that section of the personal equipment list or just scroll down):

Please go to our personal & team equipment section of the "Shishapangma Questions" for additional information and detailed discussion of the equipment lists below.

Where should I purchase my equipment?

Please "click here" to view our list of recommendations on where to purchase kit from our Shishapangma Frequently Asked Questions.

Climbing-

  • Climbing harness;
  • 5 metres / 15 feet of 6mm climber's accessory cord.
  • Figure 8/Abseil belay device;
  • 1 large mitten sized ascender (most members use the large petzl) and arm length leash;
  • 2 locking carabiners, 1 large and 1 small;
  • 4 regular carabiners;
  • Ice axe w/leash;
  • Crampons - must fit boots perfectly. Steel crampons with anti-balling (anti-bot) plates are the best;
  • Optional; Adjustable trekking poles;
  • Optional for skiers - Avvie (avalanche) equipment: beacon, probe, and shovel. back to top

Upper Body-

  • 2 cotton t-shirts;
  • 1 polypropylene t-shirt;
  • 2 long sleeve polypropylene shirts, lightweight;
  • 1 polar fleece pullovers, medium weight;
  • 1 polar fleece jacket.
  • Gore-Tex jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable;
  • Lightweight down jacket for those chilly days in basecamp;
  • For high altitude use, 1 very warm goose-down (duvet) jacket with hood, you may prefer a down/duvet suit; back to top
  • Umbrella (optional);

Hands-

  • 1 pr. lightweight poly-liner gloves. These will be worn when tying knots, but not inside your mitts;
  • 1 pair mittens, consists of 1 Gore-tex over mitt matched with the very warm polar fleece mitt liner (For more about high altitude mitts, please click here).

Head-

  • Helmet;
  • Warm hat wool or synthetic that covers your ears;
  • Balaclava;
  • Face mask;
  • Ballcap or brimmed suncap;
  • Glacier sunglasses with side shields (you can purchase these inexpensively in Kathmandu, including prescription sunglasses, which can be made for $20, it might take a week or two);
  • 1 pair ski goggles (Optional) with light and dark lens;
  • Headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs;
  • Bandana or head scarf, also useful for dusty conditions. back to top

Lower Body-

  • Cotton underwear briefs;
  • 1 pair walking shorts;
  • 1 pair walking trousers for trekking and around camp;
  • 2 pair lightweight thermal bottoms;
  • 1 pair medium or expedition weight thermal bottoms;
  • 1 pair polar fleece trousers;
  • 1 pair Gore-Tex trousers, salopettes, or bibs. Waterproof/breathable with full side zips;
  • 1 pr. Goose-down (duvet) trousers , salopettes or bibs. You may prefer a down (duvet) suit.

Your clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags. back to top

Feet-

  • 1 pair One-Sport Millet Everest boots or or similar design(plastic climbing boots are not warm enough, even with over-boots or over-gaiters);
  • 1 pair sturdy leather walking boots with good ankle support (we mean leather trekking, not climbing boots) for the walk to advanced basecamp and to camp 1;
  • 1 pair trainers, running shoes and/or sandals for Kathmandu and in camp;
  • 1 pair down booties (optional);
  • 2 pair med-heavy poly or wool socks;
  • 2- pair of liner socks. Polypropylene or wool;
  • vapour barrier liner socks or plastic bread-bags;
  • 2 pair lightweight trekking socks, poly or wool;
  • Cotton socks for in town.
Sleeping-
  • For high altitude, 1 down (duvet) sleeping bag (rated to – 20 Centigrade or -0 Fahrenheit). In the high camp, you can sleep in your down (duvet) clothing inside your sleeping bag;
  • 1 additional sleeping bag for basecamp (good to -10 degrees C or 10 degrees F);
  • At least 3 closed cell foam kari-mats for use in basecamp and high altitude, We do not recommend inflatable mats, as we have never seen one not puncture. You can buy these non inflatable mats very inexpensively in Kathmandu. Why carry foam mats around the world, when you can purchase them inexpensively in Kathmandu?

Your sleeping bags should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags. back to top

Rucksack and Travel Bags-

  • 1 medium rucksack (50-70 litres / 3000-4500 cubic inches, can be used for airplane carry);
  • Waterproof rucksack cover (optional);
  • 2 large (120 L / 7500 cubic inch) duffle kit bags for clothing and equipment. Must be durable for use on pack animals;
  • Small padlocks for duffel kit bags. back to top

Personal Hygiene-

  • female or male hygiene supplies;
  • 2 tubes lip sun cream, 1 large tube skin sun cream (min.factor 15);
  • anti-mosquito cream;
  • 1 toothpaste/brush;
  • 1 bar soap or hand sanitizer gel/1 small towel;
  • hand wipes. back to top

Medical-

Medications are inexpensive and readily available in Kathmandu with no Doctor`s prescription:

  • small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, first-aid tape, plasters (band-aids), personal medications, etc. The leaders will have extensive first-aid kits, so leave anything extra behind. Please let your leader know about any medical issues before the climb;
  • 1 skin blister repair kit;
  • 1 small bottle anti-diarrhea pills;
  • 1 small bottle anti-headache pills;
  • 1 small bottle cough and/or cold medicine;
  • 1 small bottle anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox, Acetylzolamide. For more about this medication, please review the information in our Shishapangma Questions.
  • 1 small bottle stomach antibiotic: Ciprofloxacin, etc.;
  • Do not bring sleeping pills. They are a respiratory depressant;
  • 1 small bottle of water purification tablets or water filter;
  • 1 set earplugs;
  • extra prescription glasses, contact lens supplies. Contact lens wearers, please bring glasses in case of emergency. A new pair could be quickly made in Kathmandu, Lhasa, or Kashgar for just $20. Please order upon arrival if you are interested. back to top

Personal Food-

On the mountain we supply plenty of food for you to cook 3 hot meals each day. This food will consist of soup, local cheese & sausage, biscuits, dried noodles, potatoes, rice, porridge, butter, dried and tinned vegetables, fruit, meats, and fish, tea with milk and sugar, powdered juice drink, and drinking chocolate. Our sherpas will be carrying this food to the higher camps.

Our skillful cooks prepare 3 delicious hot meals and plenty of drinks each day in basecamp and advanced basecamp.

  • We ask each member to bring their own imported daily snack and energy foods. We also ask members to bring 3 dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for their summit attempt. We do not provide cold “snack” food such as chocolate or "energy-bars". We ask that you bring or buy your own "snack" or daily cold energy food, 2-5 kilos is a good amount. A growing variety of imported foods such as European and American cheeses, chocolates, biscuits, cookies, nuts, and locally made power-bars are now available in Kathmandu, at realistic prices. However, imported power bars, GU, re-hydration drinks, dehydrated food, "freeze-dried meals", imported cheese and sausage are not available. If you want these items, you must bring them from your home country. Many of our members, especially Britons, Europeans, and Australians with tiny baggage allowances, now purchase their daily snacks in Kathmandu. Our schedule in Kathmandu allows plenty of time for shopping.

Practical- back to top

  • 1 small roll of repair tape, 1 sewing repair kit;
  • 1 cigarette lighter, 1 small box matches;
  • 1 compass or GPS;
  • 1 battery powered alarm clock/watch;
  • 1 camera and film, or digital camera with extra cards and extra batteries;
  • nylon stuff sacks For food and gear storage, large Ziplocs are useful also;
  • 3 Water bottles (1 litre) wide-mouth Nalgene (1 is a pee bottle);
  • 1 plastic cup and spoon;
  • 1 small folding knife;
  • binoculars (optional);
  • 4 large, waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks;
  • passport, 2 extra passport photos, flight ticket, flight itinerary;
  • separate photocopies of passport and relevant visa pages, proof of insurance;
  • dollars, pounds or euros cash for purchasing Nepalese visa at Kathmandu airport, Tibet visa, for paying for restaurants and hotels, for gratuities, snacks, and to purchase your own drinks and gifts;
  • credit cards, Bank/ATM/Cash machine cards for use for withdrawing funds from cash machines (bring a photocopy of your cards), traveler's checks, etc.;
  • 1 bathing suit/swimming costume (you never know);
  • basecamp entertainment. It is good to bring additional items which you have found to be useful on previous expeditions. For example: paperback books, playing cards, ipod mp3 player, short-wave radio, game boys, musical instruments, ear plugs, lots of batteries, etc.;
  • travel clothes for basecamp and in town.
  • Please be sure and bring your patience and try to keep an open, relaxed, positive and friendly attitude as travelling in this part of the world may be very different than what you are used to, but things always seem to fall into place at the last moment. Thank you.

This is not an exhaustive list. Please submit other equipment concerns and suggestions. Thank you. back to top

Oxygen:

You should consider whether or not you wish to use supplemental oxygen. About half of our Shishapangma team members do. Its not like Everest where oxygen is absolutely necessary, but some Shishapangma climbers like it because it gives them a little extra edge of "insurance" that they will be feeling as well as possible when resting in the high camp and on summit day, both climbing up to the summit and on descent. In addition, supplemental oxygen usage has been shown to markedly reduce the incidence of frostbite. Our sherpas will try to help you carry the oxygen, and three four-litre bottles should be more than enough, and you also need the mask, hoses, and regulator. Or, you can have the full set of three bottles, which includes mask-regulator-hoses (as well as carriage up to the high camps by our sherpas). All of the equipment is guaranteed to work well together, and it is easy to use, with simple threaded and snap-on fittings which require no tools. We have a 30% buy back policy bottles on unused oxygen, and masks, hoses, and regulators in good condition. For more information about Oxygen, please click here.

Note: You may have to carry some or all of your own oxygen on summit day, as well as up and down the mountain. If possible, the group sherpas will help stock the high camps, as well as share in carrying extra bottles during summit attempts. If you are concerned you might not be able to carry your own oxygen, you may wish to hire a personal sherpa. back to top

Group Equipment:

We provide a plethora of top-quality, and time-tested equipment, group gear, and supplies, including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection; basecamp, advanced basecamp and altitude tents; cookers, fuel, high-altitude food, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. We now provide an individual tent for each member in basecamp, so you do not have to share. We also have a shower and toilet tent for Basecamp. Please see the group EQUIPMENT link, in the menu bars above to study what we bring for your use and safety. back to top

Please submit any equipment questions or concerns to: info@summitclimb.com

Mount Shishapangma Climbing Expedition Questions Section

Mount Shishapangma Expedition Climbing Video Movie Clips

Below are some short video clips taken from our recent Shishapangma expedition. Please click the picture or title in the left column to view each clip. In the right column is the description for each video.

A look at our comfortable advanced basecamp, located at 5400 metres/17,700 feet on the north foot of the mountain. 1:10 minutes (10 MB).

The route from ABC goes along the lateral moraine of the Shishapangma Glacier, and at 5800 metres/19,000 feet, crosses to a flat area with many serac formations. We climb a skiable/snowboardable "headwall" at 20-34 degrees to camp 1 at 6200 metres/20,300 feet. 0:45 seconds (6.5 MB).

Our comfortable base camp at 5000 metres/16,400 feet. 0:25 seconds (4 MB).

A view of the vast Tibetan plateau and the surrounding Himalayan Giants, including Shishapangma. 0:35 seconds (5 MB).

A look at camp 1 at 6200 metres/20,300 feet. 0:35 seconds (5 MB).

The massive plateau where camp 2 is located, at about 6700 metres/22,000 feet. 0:50 seconds (7 MB).

Camp 3 is located on a protected and safe rock-crowned flat buttress at 7400 metres/24,300 feet. Unfortunately, our team did not get any footage of the camp. To view an image of camp 3, please click here. 1 minute (8 MB).

The ice-fall we travel through before reaching camp 1. From ABC we cross the glacier to a flat area with many serac formations. 0:50 seconds (7 MB).

A view up the mountain from ABC of the route to the summit. Although out team reached the summit, they were unable to get any footage from the top. To view an image of the summit of Shishapangma, please click here. 1:20 minutes (11.5 MB).

 

If you wish to purchase our mountain climbing and trekking films, please contact Videoland Productions.

You can can go to their site www.videolandproductions.com and email info@videolandproductions.com or call (+1)360-491-1332 to buy any and all of the mountain climbing and trekking films we have. Please tell them we said hi!

We will be expanding with more Shishapangma video clips.

Mount Shishapangma Climbing News & Expedition Dispatches - Stories

Archive news: Please Click Here

Climbing near the Gendarmes on our summit attempt at around 7600 metres/25,000 feet (Dan Mazur).

Thank you for reading about our past Shishapangma Expeditions. To follow along with our ongoing trips around the world, please view our "Recent News" section.

Mount Shishapangma Climb - International Members Application

What questions do you have? Please ask as many questions as possible. This helps us to have a proper conversation so we can better understand one-another's expectations, so you will have a very safe, enjoyable, and succesful expedition. Thank you. Before completing the application forms, please be sure to carefully study the Shishapangma "Questions" website for information regarding flights, payment, team members, application forms, insurance, etcetera: Shishapangma Frequently Asked Questions .

Below you should find a pdf or MS document containing the application pro forma. Are you able to read it? When all of your questions have been answered to your satisfaction, please print out the application and return it to us with your refundable ten-percent deposit, to hold your place in our team. Would you please just post it to us at the mailing address you will find on the form? Thank you very much. If you decide not to go, your deposit will be refunded according to our refund policy. Your registration and the final payment must be completed two months prior to the expedition starting date. Thank you very much.

Click here to download the PDF Form for International Applicants

 
 

If you do not have an Adobe PDF reader, please obtain it here

Here is a checklist of what we need to have in your file at least two months before the trip begins. We encourage you to send an electronic scan of all of the below documents, please be sure they are signed. Thank you:

[ ] Completed Payment. Please restate payments you made and what those payments were for, ie full vs basic, sherpas, oxygen, etc.
[ ] Make your Oxygen order (if any) crystal clear at this time, number of bottles, masks, payment, etc.
[ ] Make your Sherpa order (if any) crystal clear at this time, personal sherpa, quarter sherpa, payment, etc.
[ ] Trip Registration Form (part of 4 page form),
[ ] Signed Participant Release and Acknowledgement of Risk (part of 4 page form),
[ ] Signed Terms and Conditions of Booking (part of 4 page form),
[ ] Signed Medical Form (part of 4 page form),
[ ] 1 Passport sized photo, which is a simple, very clear picture of your face, sent as an email scan. (We simply require a picture of your face against a white background. You can take it yourself for free with your own digital camera or smart phone),
[ ] Exact photocopy of passport identification pages,
[ ] Exact photocopy of complete flight itinerary,
[ ] Proof of mountain rescue and repatriation insurance,
[ ] Proof of travel, accident, and repatriation insurance (cancellation and trip interruption insurance is advised).
[ ] Doctor's letter which is required if you are climbing a Tibetan 8000 metre peak or Everest from Tibet.

Please do let us know what further questions you may have about the registration process, or anything else for that matter. Thank you.
 
 
Welcome to our team.

Mount Shishapangma Expedition Climb - US Members Application

What questions do you have? Please ask as many questions as possible. This helps us to have a proper conversation so we can better understand one-another's expectations, so you will have a very safe, enjoyable, and successful expedition. Thank you. Before completing the application forms, please be sure to carefully study the Shishapangma "Questions" website for information regarding flights, payment, team members, application forms, insurance, etcetera: Shishapangma Frequently Asked Questions .

Below you should find a pdf or MS document containing the application pro forma. Are you able to read it? When all of your questions have been answered to your satisfaction, please print out the application and return it to us with your refundable ten-percent deposit, to hold your place in our team. Would you please just post it to us at the mailing address you will find on the form? Thank you very much. If you decide not to go, your deposit will be refunded according to our refund policy. Your registration and the final payment must be completed two months prior to the expedition starting date. Thank you very much.

Click here to download the PDF Form for US Applicants

 

If you do not have an Adobe PDF reader, please obtain it here

Here is a checklist of what we need to have in your file at least two months before the trip begins. We encourage you to send an electronic scan of all of the below documents, please be sure they are signed. Thank you:

[ ] Completed Payment. Please restate payments you made and what those payments were for, ie full vs basic, sherpas, oxygen, etc.
[ ] Make your Oxygen order (if any) crystal clear at this time, number of bottles, masks, payment, etc.
[ ] Make your Sherpa order (if any) crystal clear at this time, personal sherpa, quarter sherpa, payment, etc.
[ ] Trip Registration Form (part of 4 page form),
[ ] Signed Participant Release and Acknowledgement of Risk (part of 4 page form),
[ ] Signed Terms and Conditions of Booking (part of 4 page form),
[ ] Signed Medical Form (part of 4 page form),
[ ] 1 Passport sized photo, which is a simple, very clear picture of your face, sent as an email scan. (We simply require a picture of your face against a white background. You can take it yourself for free with your own digital camera or smart phone),
[ ] Exact photocopy of passport identification pages,
[ ] Exact photocopy of complete flight itinerary,
[ ] Proof of mountain rescue and repatriation insurance,
[ ] Proof of travel, accident, and repatriation insurance (cancellation and trip interruption insurance is advised).
[ ] Doctor's letter which is required if you are climbing a Tibetan 8000 metre peak or Everest from Tibet.

Please do let us know what further questions you may have about the registration process, or anything else for that matter. Thank you.

Welcome to our team.

What our clients say?

  • Here's what Roger from Zurich had to say about SummitClimb:

    After comparing and evaluating a bunch of expedition companies, SummitClimb seems to offer best what an experienced climber may expect: great infrastructure, professional organization and adequate services for people that wont need a hand-holding guide on the mountain. Thanks a lot for your great answers to my questions.