Tibet Mount Everest Expedition via the North Col.

image descriprion

Tibet Mount Everest Expedition via the North Col.

Now Accepting Members For Our 2024 Expedition. Tibet is Open !!


Full Service Cost: $46,450, £37,350, €42,950 (fixed in USD)


Dates: 7 April to 5 June 2024  & 6 April to 4 June 2025



Recent News:  Please click here to view news of our expedition.

Now Accepting Members For Our 2024 Expedition. Tibet is Open !! Climb the uncrowded Tibet North Col route made famous by possible 1924 summit of Mallory and Irvine. THIS YEAR WILL BE THE 100TH ANNIVERSARY! Our last expedition put five members and five Sherpas on the Summit!


Leader Dan Mazur. 12 successful Everest expeditions:  friendly, organized, and a good teacher. Together with our expert, helpful, friendly Sherpas, each with more than 5 ascents of Everest. We only have a few places left in the team for next season. Please contact us now to book: info@summitclimb.com .


Tibet Mount Everest Expedition via the North Col.

Mount Everest at 8,848 meters (29,035 feet) is perhaps the most coveted mountain in the world.Climb the less crowded Tibet North Col route made famous byfirst attempt to climb Everest by Mallory and Irvine in 1924. This climb avoids theKhumbu Icefall and long approach hike of the south side. The North side is approached by a drive to basecamp across Tibetan plateau that includes the best views of Everest. Expedition from north col ridge start from tibet side and was first climbed in 1960.



First On Everest - 3D Compilation



Everest Tibet Summit Night By Brendan Madden, In Deep Films You Tube Channel and InDeepFilms.com

Mount Everest - Tibet Expedition Cost

Our “full-service” expedition includes:

What is not included?

Add on High Attitude Support : Click here for prices

  • Private Sherpa (personal guide/porter) – Carries up to 10 kg (22bs) of your personal equipment, climbs with you, helps with clipping and unclipping from the fixed lines at each anchor, and will be with you every step of the way.
  • Personal equipment carriage service – Sherpa carry up to 10kg (22lbs) of personal equipment up and down the mountain between camps
Mount Everest - Tibet Expedition Itinerary
1) Arrive in Kathmandu, (1350 meters/4,429 feet). Stay at hotel.
2) Go to Chinese embassy for China Visa and Tibet Entry Permit, team orientation meeting, purchasing, packing, visit temples, city tour, shopping. Stay at hotel.
3) Exploring around Kathmandu, light hiking in local hills for good exercise. Stay at hotel.
4) Kathmandu – Exploring around Kathmandu, light hiking in local hills for good exercise. Stay at hotel. Receive passport with China Visa and Tibet Entry Permit.
5) Early morning drive to Rusuwaghadi at 2557 meters (8,389 feet). Stay at hotel.
6) Enter Tibet, drive to Gyirong at 2700 meters (8,858 feet).Stay at hotel.
7) Rest & acclimatization in Gyirong. Walk around the local hills. Stay at Hotel.
8) Drive to Tingri (4300 meters/14,107 feet). Stay at hotel.
9) Rest and acclimatization in Tingri. Stay at hotel.
10) Drive to Chinese basecamp (5200 meters/17,060 feet). Camp.
11) Rest and acclimatization in Chinese base. Organize equipment and supplies.
12) Acclimatization hike near Chinese base. Meet the Lama and participate in a Puja ceremony.
13) Rest & acclimatization in Chinese base. Organize equipment and supplies.
14) Walk with the yaks halfway to interim camp, 5800 meters (19,029 feet).
15) Rest and acclimatization at interim camp.
16) Rest and acclimatization in interim camp.
17) Walk with the yaks to advanced base camp (ABC) at 6400 meters (20,9997 feet).
18) Training/rest day in ABC.
19) Training/rest day in ABC.
20) Climb partway up the North Col and return, camp in ABC.
21) Climb to the top of the North Col 7,000 meters (22,966 feet). Return to ABC.
22) Extra day in case of weather, acclimatization, etc.
23) Walk down to Basecamp.
24) Rest in Chinese base.
25) Rest in Chinese base.
26) Rest in Chinese base.
27) Climb to interim camp.
28) Climb to ABC.
29) Rest in ABC
30) Walk to camp 1. Sleep there.
31) Climb to camp 2, return to ABC.
32) Walk down to Basecamp.
33) Rest in Chinese base or drive to a lower village
34) Lower village. Explore historical temples and light hiking.
35) Rest in lower village.
36) Rest in lower village.
37) Lower village. Explore historical temples and light hiking.
38) Go back to Chinese base and rest.
39) Climb to interim camp.
40) Climb to ABC.
41) Rest in ABC.
42) Climb to camp 1. Sleep there.
43) Climb to camp 2, sleep there.
44) Climb to camp 3, sleep there.
45) Attempt summit if conditions allow.
46) Extra day for summit attempt.
47) Extra day for summit attempt.
48) Extra day for summit attempt.
49) Extra day for summit attempt.
50) Extra day for summit attempt.
52) Descend to Camp 1.
53) Descend to ABC.
54) Packing in ABC.
55) Walk to Chinese Base.
56) Packing in basecamp.
57) Early morning drive to Gyirong. Stay at hotel.
58) Early morning drive to Kathmandu. Stay at hotel.
59) In Kathmandu. Final packing, celebration, and say goodbye to new friends.
60) Fly home. Thank you for joining our Mount Everest Expedition
Mount Everest - Tibet Expedition Leadership and Staff
Leadership: During your full-service expedition, you will benefit from the leadership provided by David O'Brien . David has climbed in the Indian and Nepalese Himalayas as well as in the Alps. He has led expeditions in the high arctic island of Spitsbergen and has a liking for the cold and remote having crossed Greenland by ski. He has organized and led overland trips in Asia and North Africa.

David has been climbing and working with Summit Climb since 2006 and is a thoughtful, considerate leader. He is a Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society and lives in London with his partner and child.

Sherpas: We employ some of Nepal, Tibet, and the Karakorum’s best local mountaineers and Sherpas to assist team members in realizing their summit goals. Our friendly and loyal high altitude climbing staff has supported teams to the summits of more than ten of the highest peaks in the Himalaya.
Mount Everest - Tibet Expedition Personal and Team Equipment

Climbing:

  • Climbing harness
  • 5 meters (16 ft.) of 6mm accessory cord
  • Figure 8 abseil/belay device (tube style devices, i.e. ATC will not work on fixed lines)
  • Full size ascender (i.e. PetzlAscention)
  • 2 locking carabiners, 1 large and 1 small
  • 4 non-locking carabiners
  • Ice axe with leash
  • Steel crampons with anti-balling plates
  • Trekking poles
  • Abseiling/Rappelling Gloves

Upper Body:

  • 2 cotton t-shirts
  • 2 synthetic t-shirts
  • 2 long sleeve synthetic shirts
  • Light-weight soft shell jacket
  • Medium weight insulatingjacket (fleece, down, or synthetic)
  • Hard shell jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable (Gore-Tex or similar)
  • Heavy down coat
     
    • For 6,000m peaks a very warm down coat with hood or an 8,000m coat with hood
    • For 7,000m peaks an 8,000m coat with hood
    • For 8,000m peaks an 8,000m down coat with hood or an 8,000m suit can be used instead

Hands:

  • Lightweight poly-liner gloves
  • Mid-weight soft shell gloves – water/wind resistant
  • Heavy- weight waterproof gloves – Gore-tex shell with removable liner
  • Expedition weight mittens -Gore-tex over mitt matched polar fleece mitt liner

Head:

  • Helmet
  • Warm hat that covers your ears
  • Balaclava
  • Face mask
  • Baseball hat or brimmed sun hat
  • Glacier sunglasses with side shields
  • Ski goggles with light and dark lenses
  • Glasses with clear lenses to protect your eyes while climbing to the summit on windy nights. (cost less than 10 dollars in Kathmandu)
  • Headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs
  • Buff/neck gaiter
  • Bandana or head scarf (optional)

Lower Body:

  • Synthetic underwear
  • Hiking shorts
  • Hiking pants
  • 2 pair lightweight thermal bottoms
  • Medium or expedition weight thermal bottoms
  • Polar fleece or soft shell pants
  • Waterproof/breathable pants with full side zips (Gore-Tex or similar)
  • Heavy insulating pants
     
    • For 6,000m peaks: Down or synthetic pants will full zips
    • For 7,000m peaks: 8,000m down pants
    • For 8,000m peaks: 8,000m down pants or a 8,000m suit can be used instead

Feet:

  • Boots
     
    • For 6,000m peaks: Plastic or composite double boots (Koflach, La SportivaSpantik, etc) Modern waterproof, single boots designed for 4-5,000m peaks may be suitable if they can be worn with 2 pairs of socks and vapor barrier lines and/or they are equipped with overboots
    • For 7,000m: Plastic or composite double boots (Koflach, La SportivaSpantik, etc)
    • For 8,000m peaks: 8,000m boots - One-Sport Millet Everest boots or equivalent
       
  • Sturdy leather walking boots
  • Trainers, running shoes and/or sandals
  • Down booties (optional)
  • 3 pair med-heavy poly or wool socks
  • 2 pair poly or wool liner socks (optional)
  • Vapor barrier liner socks (optional)
  • 2 pair lightweight trekking socks
  • Cotton socks for in town

Sleeping:

  • Down sleeping bag
     
    • For 6,000m peaks: -18C or 0F
    • For 7,000m peaks:-23C or -10F (If you sleep cold consider -29C or -20F)
    • For 8,000m peaks: -29C or -20F (If you sleep cold consider -40C or -40F)
       
  • An additional down sleeping bag for basecamp for the following climbs: Everest, Lhotse, AmaDablam, Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I and II, Spantik, K2/Broad Peak Everest training climb. For Mastagata a second sleeping bag is optional, but highly recommended.
     
    • Down base camp sleeping bag should be rated to -10C or 15F (If you sleep cold consider -18C or 0F)
       
  • 2 closed cell foam kari-mats (sleeping pads) for use in basecamp and high altitude (these can be purchased inexpensively in Kathmandu)
  • High quality inflatable sleeping pad designed for cold weather (Thermarest)
  • Patch kit for inflatable pad

Rucksack and Travel Bags:

  • Medium rucksack/backpack (50-70 litres / 3000-4500 cubic inches, can be used as carry-on bag)
  • Waterproof rucksack cover (optional)
  • 2 large (120+ L / 7500+ cubic inch) duffle kit bags for clothing and equipment
  • Small luggage locks for duffel kit bags

Personal Hygiene:

  • Female or male hygiene supplies
  • 2 tubes lip sun cream
  • Large tube skin sun cream (min factor 30)
  • Anti-mosquito cream
  • Toothpaste/brush
  • Hand sanitizer gel (small-medium bottle)
  • Bar of soap small towel
  • Hand wipes
  • Face Mask
  • Hand sanitiser
  • Disposable gloves
  • Disinfectant wipes

Medical:

  • Small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, first-aid tape, plasters (band-aids), personal medications, etc.
  • Blister repair kit
  • 10 anti-diarrhea pills
  • 20 anti-headache pills
  • 10 cough and/or cold medicine
  • Anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox, Acetylzolamide
  • 10 Stomach antibiotics: Ciprofloxacin, etc.
  • 5 Azithromycin tables
  • Steri pen or bottle of water purification tablets
  • Cough sweets/lozenges (Halls/Stepils)
  • Earplugs
  • Extra prescription glasses/contact lenses and supplies

Personal Food:

  • Snack food/daily energy food
     
    • Everest training Nepal/Tibet, AmaDablam, Baruntse: 2-4kg (4.5-9lbs)
    • Spantik, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Mustagata, Manasu: 2-5kg (4.5-11lbs)
    • Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I/II, K2/Everest training, Everest, Lhotse: 3-6kg (6.5-13lbs)
       
  • Dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for summit attempt
     
    • Everest training Nepal/Tibet, AmaDablam: 2 meals
    • Spantik, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Mustagata, Manasu, Baruntse: 3 meals
    • Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I/II, K2/Everest training, Everest, Lhotse: 5 meals
Practical:
 
  • Small roll of repair tape
  • Sewing repair kit
  • Cigarette lighter
  • Small box matches
  • Compass or GPS
  • Battery powered alarm clock/watch
  • Camera with extra cards and extra batteries
  • Nylon stuff sacks for food and gear storage
  • 2 water bottles (1 litre) wide-mouth Nalgene
  • Pee bottle (1litre or larger)
  • Plastic cup and spoon
  • Small folding knife
  • Binoculars (optional)
  • 4 large, waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks
  • Passport, 2 extra passport photos, flight ticket, flight itinerary
  • Separate photocopies of passport and relevant visa pages, proof of insurance
  • Dollars, pounds, or euros cash
  • Bank/ATM/Cash and credit cards
  • Bathing suit/swim suit (you never know)
  • Paperback books, playing cards, ipod/mp3 player, musical instruments, extra batteries, etc.
  • Travel clothes for basecamp and in town
  • Umbrella (optional)
  • Small solar panels for personal electronics (optional)


Group Equipment:

We provide group gear, equipment, and supplies including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection, tents; stoves, fuel, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. A personal tent will be provided for each member at base camp. On the upper mountain, team members will share tents. In base camp, a shower, toilet, solar charger, and a dining tent will be provided.

Mount Everest - Tibet Expedition Experience and Training
Prior winter snow walking, climbing, camping, and experience at altitude is recommended. The trip includes climbing training. We will teach you everything you need to know on glaciers near basecamp. Team members should be fit and in good health. Please see our questions section for fitness training advice.
Mount Everest - Tibet Application Forms

Please fill out an application and return it to us with your refundable ten-percent deposit to hold your place on the team.

In addition to your application, we will need the following at least two months before the trip begins:  

  • Completed Payment
  • Oxygen order (if any)
  • Sherpa order (if any)
  • Trip Registration form
  • 1 Passport sized photo
  • A scan of your passport identification pages
  • Complete flight itinerary
  • Proof of travel, accident, and repatriation insurance. We strongly recommend Global Rescue, with at least $50,000 worth of helicopter rescue insurance.
  • Trip cancellation/interruption insurance is recommended

Please contact us with any questions you may have.

Here is what the Mallorys, a family of 4 Everest summiters, had to say: "SummitClimb is very patient and well organized. On expedition the showers were nice, the toilet facilities were good, tent arrangements were comfortable, the food servers were great, the food was tasty, and we even had heaters in basecamp and doctors on the trip.

The organization was well done and we had very little concerns, with all of our requirements were met. We had a great climb with a huge deal of success.

The SummitClimb Sherpas were very supportive, capable and helped us at important times when we needed their assistance. Preparation for the climb was made easy, with all of the important information available on the SummitClimb website. Questions were readily answered rapidly by the SummitClimb office staff. Most importantly, the leader was very professional, respectful, communicated information readily, and was a key component in the success we enjoyed on Everest"

Here is what Vik had to say: "The leader provided great team leadership and is a very good communicator, clear and patient. I liked the independence afforded on the expedition and we had a good team. The solar charger and battery setup in basecamp worked well and the double wall dining tent and heater were nice. The sherpas were very hard working and super friendly. There were no slackers on the staff."

Here is what Amer had to say: "Please know that i am truly delighted and 100% satisfied with my SummitClimb experience! Everything went smoothly so far as the organization goes, and i am grateful to have been a part of the team."

Here is what Arnold has to say about climbing Everest from Tibet: "It’s a full service expedition with everything taken care of. Or you can go in simple style with the basic climb. It's less expensive than the South side expedition.

It involves some very interesting history of Mallory and Irvine and the 1920s expeditions.

SummitClimb's strong team of staff and sherpas has helped fix the route to the summit many years now and they know the mountain well.

It's less crowded than the South side and there is a nice slow pace of approach and climb.

The leaders are very team focused, dedicated and hard working, with attention to the member's needs and details letting each participant go at his/her own pace with their own desired support.

The basecamp food is excellent with plenty of hot drinks.

The Tibetan side of Everest might be shorter to climb, you start from a high ABC at 6400 metres. The summit day is shorter, starting from 8300 metre high camp, 300 metres higher than high camp on the Nepal side."

Here is what Dale has to say: "I just want to say "thanks" for organizing this expedition. I was able to achieve my childhood dream/goal of reaching the summit of Mt. Everest, and SummitClimb was a big factor in that dream becoming a reality." 

Here is what Bruce says: "I thought the expedition worked well and it was another good group of people you put together. I look forward to climbing together again and seeing you next time."

 

Here is what Rob had to say: "Your good relationship with the Chinese government. allowed for us to get into Tibet earlier than any other international expedition.

SummitClimb provided an excellent expedition leader. I think the food was fresh and really good, considering how difficult it is to get supplies up the mountain. Having our own tents in base camp and ABC was also a bonus."

Here is what Garth had to say: "I had a fantastic time, what an incredible experience. We all left Tibet saying that we would return"

Here is what Phil has to say: "The expedition is ideal for individuals or groups of climbers who wish to participate in a Himalayan expedition at a reasonable price, only slightly higher than the cost of organizing your own independent expedition.You have the wealth of experience provided by the organizers and land leaders, who use no middlemen, dealing directly with the government mountaineering office."

Here is what Troy says: "Thanks for everything! I appreciate everything you did to make this a safe and successful expedition."

Here is what Alan says: "I had a very good experience on this unforgettable expedition. The trip was well organized and I liked the leader. He was full of energy and humour."

]