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Ama Dablam - Asia`s Most Famous Rock, Snow & Ice Climb

  • amadablam photos Mt. AmaDablam seen during sunset. Photo Bjarne
  • amadablam Monika and Lhakpa Gelbu Sherpa at the summit of AmaDablam. Monika Photo
  • amadablam photos Jessica and Sherpa 10 minutes away from the summit of AmaDablam. Photo Felix
  • amadablam photos Night in Camp 1. Photo John Shelton-Smith
  • Amadablam photo At Camp 2. Photo Max
  • Amadablam photos Lots of exposure as we move from from Camp I to Camp II. Lakba Sherpa leads the traverse at 17,500. Photo Tom
  • amadablam photos Action in Camp 2. Photo Richard Pattison
  • amadablam photos AmaDablam Summit. Background Everest view. Photo Irma
  • amadablam photos AmaDablam Basecamp. Photo Bjarne
  • amadablam photos Member showing climbing skill. Photo Salima
  • amadablam photos Member climbing up for summit push. Photo Grace McDonald
  • Amadablam photo Amadablam summit. Photo Irma
  • amadablam photos Ama Dablam in the distance. Photo Tom
  • amadablam photos SummitClimb Team Summit. Photo John Shelton-Smith
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  • Full Service Cost: $5,550, £4,150, € 4,950; Basic Climb Cost: $2,650, £2,050, €2,450.   (Converted 16-08-2016)
  • 10 October to 7 November (29 days). Or, Extended dates available: 1 Nov. to 29 Nov.
  • Flexible date option also available, with the option to begin and end the trip anytime between 10 October and 15 December.
  • Leaders: Dan Mazur, and Holly Budge  , 9 Succesful Ama expeditions, friendly, good teachers, technically accomplished.
  • Full service expedition: British, American, or European leader, Sherpas, hotels, internal flights, yaks, porters, ropes, tasty meals on trek, in basecamp & high camp, group climbing equipment, individual tents, radios, international calls, news updates.  
  • Ama Dablam could qualify you for Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Everest Tibet or Everest Nepal.
  • We help you buy and rent / hire inexpensive climbing and trekking gear, equipment, clothing & boots at affordable cheap prices.
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  • Asia's most famous rock, snow, and ice peak. The Matterhorn of the Himalaya. Technical but climbable.
  • Easy, fun solid rock & mixed climbing. Safe fixed ropes. Perfect for beginner, novice & expert climbers.
  • Located just 7 km / 12 miles from Everest, with stunning views from the summit.
  • Good granite scrambling. Only one pitch is 12 m / 40 ft of UIAA French 4, British Severe, USA 5.6, Aus 14.
  • We review skills, train for rock and ice climbing & conduct fixed rope training on cliffs around basecamp.
  • Average team size is 6. During 9 prior climbs we put 45 members and 30 Sherpas on the summit.
  • Short walk to grassy base camp at 4,500 m / 14,500 ft on snow-free paths through Khumbu valley. Green terraced villages, rushing rivers, lush forests, stay in `teahouses', camp beneath towering peaks.
Recent News: Our recent Ama Dablam Expedition has just returned from a fun and successful expedition. Please click here to view news of our expedition. 
 
Video: Please click here to watch this exciting new Ama Dablam trailer by Pattison Productions.
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Ama Dablam Expedition Climb Program Description

Please click one of the links below to view that section of our introductory information or just scroll down (photo right by Dan Mazur: The SW Ridge route up Ama Dablam with all 3 high camps marked).

Ama Dablam Programme Description:

  • Introduction: Our Amadablam expedition offers an opportunity to climb this challenging semi-technical rock-ice-snow climb with an experienced team, at an affordable price. We have organized nine previous expeditions to Ama Dablam (6,812 metres/22,349 feet), so our leaders and staff are very familiar with the climb.

    The Famous Camp 2 of Amadablam click by summitclimb member. Photo: Don Wargowsky.

    • Our proposed schedule allows for a careful and safe ascent, as well as multiple full descents to basecamp.
    • The style of climbing is cautious and well-timed, with excellent leadership, organization, Sherpa climbers, `walkie-talkie` radios, satellite telephones, cooks and waiters, tasty food, the best equipment, individual tents for each member in basecamp, a full kitchen in basecamp, advanced basecamp (ABC) and in camp 1, two camps on the mountain, 1000s of metres of fixed line, hundreds of rock, ice and snow anchors, top-quality high altitude tents and high altitude stoves, expedition mix gas, and full safety equipment: medical oxygen, gamow bag, and extensive medical kit (photo right The Famous Camp 2 of Amadablam click by summitclimb member. Photo: Don Wargowsky).
    • Our expedition features one of the most beautiful treks in the world included in the cost.
    • Ama Dablam could qualify you for Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Everest Tibet or Everest Nepal.
    • This expedition maximizes experience gained over 9 prior Ama Dablam expeditions with a strong record of reaching the top of our world`s highest peaks. In addition to more than 25 Himalayan expeditions we have an intimate knowledge of the Nepalese officials who regulate the permit system, liaison officers, sherpas, cooks, yak drivers, and hoteliers/restaurateurs. back to top

  • Leader and staff: In Kathmandu, during the trek, in basecamp and ABC, and on the climb, our experienced staff is with you all of the way. Our helpful climbing sherpas are some of the best. They are real high-altitude star-performers and very friendly. Our western leader is a highly experienced, friendly, and well-organized professional with multiple ascents of Ama Dablam. Skillful basecamp, ABC and camp 1 cooks prepare delicious, fresh, tasty food and hot drinks at least 3 times a day.
    • On trek: Our western leader, together with friendly and helpful sherpas, cooks and local people leading yak caravans carry all of your personal equipment, group equipment, and set up camp each day, prepare and serve delicious meals, so you can relax and enjoy the trek. You do not need to carry a heavy rucksack during the trek (photo right by Tom Lannamann: Two friends from DAV Summit Club on a granite step we traverse just before climbing into the couloir on the grey tower).
    • Our comfortable basecamp: Our cooks and waiters will serve you delicious meals in our dining tents.
    • On the mountain: Our western leader and group sherpas will fix the route and set up high camps, as well as carry group equipment, such as tents, stoves, etc. If you wish to help out, we welcome you to do so, otherwise just relax and focus on getting well acclimated and achieving your goals. You do not need to carry a heavy rucksack during the climb.
    • Sherpas: We have many group sherpas to help the team. For an additional expense, we can also provide personal sherpas and climbing-guides to individual members who wish to have their own private sherpa. We now encourage members who wish to have a lighter rucksack to hire a 1/4 of a sherpa to help with high altitude equipment transport, carrying your extra weight both up and down the mountain. back to top
  • Everest National Park: The park covers an area of 1148 square kilometres in the Khumbu region of Nepal. This includes Mt. Everest and several other well known peaks such as Lhotse, Pumori, Island Peak , and Ama Dablam. The surrounding area is a `world biosphere reserve`. Since 1976 the park has served to safeguard unique cultural, physical and scientific values through sound conservation principles. Vegetation in the park varies from oak, pine and hemlock forests at lower altitudes to fir, juniper, birch and rhododendron woods at mid-elevations. Scrub and alpine plant communities with bare rock and glacier are found above the tree line. 22 species of rhododendron bloom during the spring (April and May) and much of the flora is colourful throughout the year. Wild animals most likely to be seen in the park are Himalayan tahr, goral, serow, musk deer, and well over 100 different bird species (photo right by http://www.americazoo.com/goto/index/mammals/420.htm: The Himalayan Tahr can grow to a metre high and weigh upwards of 100 kg).
  • Trek to basecamp: This is one of the most beautiful treks in the world with ancient snow-free paths winding past green terraced villages, rushing streams crossed on swinging bridges and each night a comfortable `teahouse` or a good tent pitched in a quiet pasture beneath the highest peaks in the world. Throughout the trek we eat delicious meals prepared by our skillful cooks. The trek will be moderately paced, allowing plenty of time for acclimatization, rest and site-seeing. Together we retrace the classic "Everest Approach March" made by Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa. The trek winds through some of the most spectacular mountain scenery on earth, where you can relax in exotic, friendly Sherpa villages. Our trusty yaks and porters carry all of your baggage, so you don`t have to carry a heavy rucksack. Basecamp is located at 4650 metres/15,300 feet. back to top
  • Basecamp: Features your own private sleeping tent that will be all your own, not needing to be shared with anyone. We have comfortable dining tents with tables and chairs where our cooks and waiters will serve you delicious meals (photo right by Chris Kinny: Our advanced basecamp at 5500 metres/18,150 feet. We have a cook here who prepares hot drinks and food to keep us healthy).
  • Climbing to the high camps:
    • Base Camp to Advanced Basecamp at 5500 metres/18,150 feet: Ama Dablam is one of the few Himalayan peaks that can be reached without crossing a glacier. We climb a long gravel ridge-slope, and cross a boulder field on the SW ridge where we will place advanced basecamp. There is water here in early October. Our skillful cook will be serving you hot meals and drinks in this camp. back to top
    • Fixed Rope: During the past 11 years it has been normal that good quality rope was fixed from camp 1 to the summit. We plan to make sure this tradition continues.
    • Camp 1 at 5700 metres/18,800 feet: We scramble over large boulders and climb an easy fourth class slab, where we fix a "hand-line". We establish two kitchens, complete with Nepalese cooks, in both ABC and camp 1 so you can enjoy abundant hot meals and drinks so you don`t have to cook or fill your own water bottle.
    • Camp 2 at 6000 metres/19,800 feet: We scramble-climb along an easy fourth class horizontal rock ridge and around several pinnacles, gaining only 300 metres/1000 feet, vertical. The exposure is huge, with massive drop-offs on both sides of the ridge. The climbing is very enjoyable with good quality granite. At the end of the horizontal ridge we climb the Yellow Tower with 6 metres/20 feet of French 4th class, British Severe, North American 5.5. Above the Yellow Tower we place camp 2 on ledges and a flat-topped rock pinnacle. Camp 2 is probably the most "airy" site you will ever pitch a tent on (photo right by Chris Kinny: Camp 2 sits atop this pinnacle at 6000 metres/19,800 feet. This photo was taken at the Grey Tower above camp 2, looking back down on the camp). back to top

Camp 1 at 5700 metres/18,800 feet. A beautiful spot to watch the sun go down on Kangtega. We have a cook here who prepares hot meals and drinks here to keep us healthy, as well as in ABC (Chris Kinny). Brewing up in camp 2 at 6000 metres/19,800 feet (Chris Kinny). Jay Ullin waving from camp 3 at 6280 metres/20,600 feet. That`s Taweche behind him. In recent years we have only used camp 3 to stop and make hot drinks and rewarm our feet (Duane Morrison).

  • Rest Days: We will be taking a lot of them throughout the expedition. During your rest days we encourage you to concentrate on recovering, eating and drinking, to read, relax, listen to music and stroll around visiting other teams.
  • Summit day: From camp 2, a steep snow ridge is climbed through the Grey Tower, with one move of French Class 4, British Severe, or 5.5, then multiple fourth class-scrambling pitches in snow, rock and ice. A snow-rock-ice chute is climbed to gain the ridge traverse, named the "mushroom-ridge", which is a very bizarre but fairly stable formation. This is followed to the right side of the base of the Dablam, where camp 3 is made on a broad flat snowfield. In recent years, due to risk of avalanche, we have only used camp 3 as a stop to make hot drinks and rewarm our feet and we have not slept overnight there. 
Two easy pitches of dramatic but very solid 40+ degree snow-ice are climbed to the side of the Dablam, where is located a short 4 metre high snow-ice step tilted at a 75 degree angle. We climb a snow ridge through the fluted, but very easy and solid, 30-48 degree snowfields that lead to one of the worlds finest summits (6,812 metres/22,349 feet), where you will be treated to incredibly stunning views of the south Face of Lhotse, Nuptse, Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Pumori, Shishapangma, Makalu, and the Khumbu Himal. back to top
 
Our team of climbers and Sherpas on the summit on a perfect day. You can see Nuptse, Everest, and Lhotse in the background (Felix). Paul from Southampton on the summit, in October (Rick Coleman). We were fortunate to be able to assist in the first ascent by a Nepalese woman, and putting the youngest woman on the summit. Maya Sherpa and Camille Kinny on the summit, with Everest on the right. A beautiful day, if a little windy. When we got back to Kathmandu the reporters were at the hotel and the story was printed in the paper (Chris Kinny). Joanne from Birmingham and our leader, Dan Mazur, on the summit (Joanne Goodson).
  • Who is this trip for?
    • We encourage men and women from around the world, of all ages to join us as an individual team member or with your own group, whether that is your spouse, partner, friends, sibling, clients, colleagues, etc. Most of our members join as individuals, our team dynamics work well, and we are able to build successful and safe groups that enjoy trekking, climbing, and traveling together (photo right by Wu Guan Jang: Climbers in the Yellow Tower at 5950 metres, the hardest climbing on the route, with one tricky move. We double all fixed lines here for safety).
    • You should feel confident climbing rock up to French 4th class, British Severe, North American 5.5, as well as have previous experience in glacier travel using ice-axe and crampons.
    • To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active winter-walker-climber in good health. Prior to joining, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice.

Please "click" one of the links on the column on the upper right of the screen under Ama Dablam to learn more about our expedition. back to top

Mount Ama Dablam Expedition Climb Cost | SummitClimb

* Our “full-service" expedition includes:

  • Leader: Cost includes a very experienced and qualified British, European, or American leader.;
  • Climbing Sherpas for the group;
  • Transport to basecamp to/from Kathmandu, for you and equipment, including all internal / domestic flights Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu;
  • Yak transport of all equipment from Lukla to and from basecamp;
  • Three hot meals per day on trek, in basecamp and advanced basecamp. Comfortable tables and chairs and dining tent in basecamp;
  • Skillful basecamp, advanced basecamp, and camp 1 cooks;
  • All mountain, basecamp and advanced basecamp food;
  • All permit fees and liaison officers;
  • Use of group gear and supplies: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection; basecamp and altitude tents; cookers, fuel, high-altitude food, walkie-talkie radios, satellite telephone, etcetera;
  • Emergency equipment and supplies: medical oxygen, gamow bag, basecamp medical kit, high-altitude medical kits, etcetera;
  • In addition to our top-quality high-altitude tents, we now provide an individual tent (1 tent per person) in basecamp
  • Your trip includes 2 free Kathmandu hotel nights at the beginning and two free Kathmandu hotel nights at the end of the trip. You will be sharing. If you want your own single room, the cost is an aditional $32 per night (during the included four free hotel nights) and for extra nights $65 per person for single occupancy. Please bring extra cash to pay for your extra nights and / or your single supplement. We often stay at the comfortable three star Hotel Shakti. Its an excellent and classic hotel surrounded by green gardens and located in the heart of the city action near many delicious restaurants, the city's best mountain equipment shopping, and abundant nightlife all within a few minutes walk. The Shakti also offers lots of entertaining day trip (and night outing) options such as city tours, walking tours, rock climbing, mountain biking, wild game safaris, horse back riding, art classes, volunteer opportunities at orphanages, hospitals, schools, women's centres, bird watching, cooking classes, sport fishing, day peak climbing, herbal medicine seminars, day hikes, pottery classes, car tours, sightseeing, temple tours, henna handpainting classes, massage, swimming, beauty salon, motorbiking, yoga retreats, river rafting, painting classes, golf, language courses, kayaking, writing seminars, bungie jumping, religious worship, canyoning, hot tubs, health club, saunas, fitness center, spa treatments, Mount Kailash Treks, night clubs, meditation retreats, gourmet restaurants, cultural dance performances, wine tasting, pedicures and manicures, casino gambling, barber shop, discotheques, airport transfers, Scenic flights around Mount Everest and much much more. Meals in Kathmandu are at your expense.back to top

Trekking: For our full-service members, the cost of this expedition includes one of the most beautiful treks in the world. For more information and photos, please visit our Everest Basecamp trek. The trek follows almost the same route as Everest Basecamp, with the exception of branching off to Ama Dablam, south of Everest.

Wonderful view down the Khumbu Valley Posing by the Tenzing Memorial in Namche Members admiring view from our lodge

Wonderful view down the Khumbu Valley.  Posing by the Tenzing Memorial in Namche. Members admiring view from our lodge. 

Sherpas and Equipment Transport: Our expedition includes transport of all of your equipment from Kathmandu to basecamp, and returned to Kathmandu. While climbing on the mountain, we DO NOT ask our full-service members to carry heavy group equipment (although it is an option if you really want to), such as tents, rope, fuel, food, etcetera. We employ climbing sherpas, and high-altitude porters, to carry group equipment and supplies. For a minimal expense, we can also provide personal sherpas, and climbing-guides, to individual members who wish to have their own private sherpa or personal climbing-guide. We now encourage members who need a little extra help with the weight to hire a "quarter of a sherpa".

Cooks and Food: On trek, our top notch cooks provide three very tasty meals each day. In base camp, advanced base camp, and camp 1, our skillful and hard working cooks prepare three hot meals each day with a very healthy diet of fresh vegetables, cheeses, eggs, and fresh as well as tinned fruits, meats and fish (all meats and fish are prepared separately out of respect for the vegetarians in our midst). They supply you with unlimited hot-drinks, the key to successful acclimatization. We have large weather-proof kitchens and dining tents, with comfortable chairs and tables. On the mountain, we provide you with abundant and nutritious locally available quick-cooking food, so that you may prepare at least three meals and lots of hot drinks each day, in our specially designed high-altitude stoves using our butane-propane expedition mix fuel.

Group Equipment: We provide a plethora of top-quality, and time-tested equipment, group gear, and supplies, including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection; basecamp, and high altitude tents; cookers, fuel, high-altitude food, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. We now provide an individual tent for each member in basecamp, so you do not have to share. We also have shower and toilet tent for base camp. Please see the above EQUIPMENT link, to study what we bring for your use and safety.

Staff: Our staff, working together as "Everest Parivar Expeditions, Pvt. Ltd." led by the experienced and influential Mr. Murari Sharma, are hospitality experts and have, for the last 21 years, been arranging overland tours, safaris, raft trips, treks, mountain climbs, trek support staff, cooks, peak climbing permits, satellite phone permits, video and film-making permits, translators, liaison officers, climbing Sherpas, oxygen, helicopter flights, air tickets, equipment purchase/hire, storage, import/export, shipping, customs clearance, transport bookings, advance hotel bookings, visas, repatriations, and permits.

Clear route climbing up from Dablam to Summit of Amadablam. Dablam. Photo: Don Wargowsky.

Safety: BOTH full-service and basic expeditions are allowed access to our extensive medical supplies, first-aid kits, medical oxygen, and a gamow bag in case of emergency. Thank you for being a well-prepared and safe team member! back to top

Clear route climbing up from Dablam to Summit of Amadablam. Dablam. Photo: Don Wargowsky.

*What is not included

  • International flights to Kathmandu and back to your home country.
  • Mountain climbing rescue and travel insurance .
  • Personal climbing and trekking equipment and clothing .
  • Your Nepal visa is conveniently purchased by you upon arrival at the Kathmandu airport. It is not necessary to purchase a Nepalese visa prior to landing in Nepal. In 2013, the cost of a 90 day visa was $100 USD & 30 days visa cost $60. Please bring cash and 2 extra passport-sized photos (extra photos are necessary to obtain the visa in the airport).Thank you. Please Note: Your passport must be valid for at least 6 months fom the END of the expedition and contain at least 2 blank pages.
  • Additional expenses like bottled or canned drinks on the trek, tips and gratuities, expenses of a personal nature (ie: laundry or gift shopping) are not included, snack-energy food, changes to the pre-planned itinerary (such as early departure), and expenses while traveling away from the group or leader. Not included are unexpected expenses, such as expenses due to emergencies, rescues, weather, political situations, transport delays, etc.
  • We recommend the following tip for our group staff: Baruntse Group Tip: $200  Expect to pay the above tip no matter what.
  • Tipping Climbing Sherpas on our peak climbs: for a group Sherpa (Tibetan or Nepalese), who helps you to climb above the high camp or up to the summit and back down, expect to pay a summit-attempt bonus as follows: AmaDablam Summit Attempt Bonus: $50, Summit Success: $100.
  • Your Nepal visa is conveniently purchased by you upon arrival at the Kathmandu airport. It is not necessary to purchase a Nepalese visa prior to landing in Nepal. In 2016, the cost of a 90 day visa was $100 USD, 30 days visa was $60. Please bring cash and 2 extra passport-sized photos (extra photos are necessary to obtain the visa in the airport). Thank you. Please Note: Your passport must be valid for at least 6 months fom the END of the expedition and contain at least 2 blank pages.

* Our "basic climb" includes:

  • Coordinator: Dan Mazur, over 20 years experience leading climbs and treks in Nepal and leader of 8 Ama Dablam expeditions;
  • All permit fees and liaison officers;
  • Emergency equipment and supplies: medical oxygen, gamow bag, basecamp medical kit, high-altitude medical kits, etcetera;
  • Access to team fixed ropes and camps (sites, not tents), coordinated with our own "full-service" climbing team.
  • Other necessary services and supplies (ie: trek services, basecamp meals, high altitude services and equipment), may be purchased and hired at minimal expense. We offer basic climb "packages" as noted below, or, we can furnish individual items such as tents, stoves, gas, food, etcetera.
  • Airport transfers from Kathamandu Tribhuvan International Airport to your hotel and back at the end of the expedition.
  • Your trip includes 2 free Kathmandu hotel nights at the beginning and two free Kathmandu hotel nights at the end of the trip. You will be sharing. If you want your own single room, the cost is an aditional $32 per night (during the included four free hotel nights) and for extra nights $65 per person for single occupancy. Please bring extra cash to pay for your extra nights and / or your single supplement. We often stay at the comfortable three star Hotel Shakti. Its an excellent and classic hotel surrounded by green gardens and located in the heart of the city action near many delicious restaurants, the city's best mountain equipment shopping, and abundant nightlife all within a few minutes walk. The Shakti also offers lots of entertaining day trip (and night outing) options such as city tours, walking tours, rock climbing, mountain biking, wild game safaris, horse back riding, art classes, volunteer opportunities at orphanages, hospitals, schools, women's centres, bird watching, cooking classes, sport fishing, day peak climbing, herbal medicine seminars, day hikes, pottery classes, car tours, sightseeing, temple tours, henna handpainting classes, massage, swimming, beauty salon, motorbiking, yoga retreats, river rafting, painting classes, golf, language courses, kayaking, writing seminars, bungie jumping, religious worship, canyoning, hot tubs, health club, saunas, fitness center, spa treatments, Mount Kailash Treks, night clubs, meditation retreats, gourmet restaurants, cultural dance performances, wine tasting, pedicures and manicures, casino gambling, barber shop, discotheques, airport transfers, Scenic flights around Mount Everest and much much more. Meals in Kathmandu are at your expense.

Add the following services to the basic climb:

  • Trekking to - from Basecamp: porters, staff, meals, camping, and round trip flight ktm - lukla, $1450 USD.
  • Basecamp: kitchen, cooks, meals, sleeping tents, dining tent, tables and chairs, $1450 USD.
  • High Altitude: leaders, sherpas, tents, ropes, radios, stoves, fuel, food, etcetera, $1550 USD. back to top
For more about our basic climb, please visit our "Notes for Basic Members".

Please ask any questions regarding cost at info@summitclimb.com.

Mount Ama Dablam Climb Expedition Itinerary | SummitClimb

Please click one of the links below to view that section of Ama Dablam's itinerary or scroll down.

Note: This is a proposed schedule, which has been developed through previous trips. The actual itinerary of your trip can differ depending on such factors as weather and local conditions. For example, the trip may finish earlier than these dates, or we may need every single day of the schedule. Thank you for being patient and flexible when coming to a foreign country like Nepal.

Arriving in Kathmandu:

1) Arrive Kathmandu (1,300 metres/4,300 feet), Nepal;

2) Explore Kathmandu, finalize arrangements; back to top

Trekking to Basecamp:

3) Fly to Lukla (2,900 metres/9,600 feet ), walk to Phakding (2,550 metres/8,400 feet), sleep in tea house or camp;

4) Walk to Namche Bazaar (3,440 metres/11,300 feet), sleep in tea house or camp;

5) Rest & Acclimatization in Namche, sleep in tea house or camp;

6) Walk to Pangboche (3,860 metres/12,700 feet), sleep in tea house or camp;

7) Walk to Base Camp (4,650 metres/15,300 feet);

8) Rest & Acclimatization and Training day in Basecamp, review climbing techniques, medical, etcetera; back to top

Moving to Advanced Basecamp:

9) Walk to Advanced Basecamp (5350 metres/17,600 feet), return and sleep in basecamp;

10) Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep in advanced basecamp;

11) Explore route to camp 1 (5,700 metres/18,800 feet), return and sleep in basecamp;

12) Rest & Acclimatization in Basecamp;

13) Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep in advanced basecamp; back to top

Climbing Ama Dablam:

14) Scramble to Camp 1, sleep in camp 1;

15) Explore route to camp 2 (5,750 metres/19,000 feet), return and sleep in basecamp;

16) Relax in basecamp;

17) Walk to Advanced Basecamp, scramble to Camp 1, sleep in camp 1;

18) Climb to Camp 2, sleep in camp 2;

19) Explore route above camp 2 to 6,230 metres/20,500 feet. For those who are feeling well, attempt the summit. Return and sleep in basecamp;

20) Relax in Advanced Basecamp, sleep sleep there;

21) Climb to Camp 2, sleep in camp 2; back to top

Summit Day:

22) Summit Attempt;

23) Summit Attempt; back to top

Going Home:

24) Return to ABC; Pack up basecamp, walk down to Pangboche, sleep in tea house or camp;

25) Walk down to Namche, sleep in tea house or camp;

26) Walk down from Namche to Lukla.

27) Return flight to Kathmandu.

28) Extra day of rest and celebration in Kathmandu. Do take a taxi out to Bhaktapur if you wish to visit an impressive temple city.

29) Fly back to your home country; back to top

Thank you for joining our Ama Dablam Expedition

Mount Ama Dablam Climb Expedition Route Description | SummitClimb

Please click one of the links below to view that section of the Ama Dablam route or scroll down.

Introduction-

Ama Dablam is in the Khumbu valley, near Mt. Everest, in the heart of the Sherpa area of Nepal, and is considered by many to be the most famous rock-ice-snow climb in all Asia. The name Ama Dablam means Mother’s Charm Box: the high hanging serac located just below the summit resembling the Dablam or Charm Box, which unmarried Sherpa women used to wear around their necks. The first ascent of the mountain was by Ed Hillary's Silver Hut expedition in 1961 when Bishop (USA), Gill, Romanes (NZ) and Ward (UK) reached the summit, via the SW ridge, on 13 March after 20 days working on the route. Since then the mountain has received more than 500 ascents (not including Sherpas) mostly via the SW ridge.

This expedition to Ama Dablam maximizes many years of accumulated wisdom of the high Himalaya, along with an intimate knowledge of the Nepalese officials who regulate the permit system. We must also give credit to the highly experienced and hard-working climbing sherpas, cooking and office staff. Our expedition offers an opportunity to climb this challenging semi-technical rock-ice-snow climb with an experienced team, at an affordable price. We have organized eight previous expeditions to Ama Dablam, so our leaders and staff are very familiar with the climb. back to top

Why the South West Ridge-

Here is what one of our previous top climb leaders (Jonathan Pratt, from Essex, England) had to say about the route:

“The easiest way to the top of Ama Dablam is via the SW ridge, a semi-technical route, and considered to be the standard route. Although there are several other routes on the mountain, they are all very much harder than the SW ridge. The route has been considered to be a safe route, free from objective danger, such as avalanche. It is a varied and interesting route with loads of superb climbing - not just a huge snow slog, unlike other Himalayan climbs. On Ama Dablam, the rock and ice is not sustained but tends to come in short manageable sections.” back to top

Itinerary-

The proposed itinerary allows enough time for proper acclimatization, rest days, and several returns to base camp, where the kitchen and base camp staff can look after all of your needs, and quell your appetite. The weather at this time of year is normally quite good and stable. However, we all know the global weather is changing, and in case of storms, you will note the proposed itinerary includes extra days as well. In previous expeditions, half of those who reached the summit needed every single "extra" day. back to top

Weather-

At low elevation, the temperatures can vary from 27°c to -7°c ( 80°f to 20°f). At higher elevations, the temperature can vary from 16°c to -23°c (60°f to -10°f). The wind is the most chilling factor, and can be quite variable, with everything from a flat calm, to hurricane force on the summit. There may be deep snow, heavy rains, mosquitoes in wet areas, blowing dust, burning heat, bright sunshine.

Arriving in Kathmandu-

The trip begins in the ancient and colorful city of Kathmandu. You stay in a comfortable, simple, clean hotel, and sample some of the tasty Nepalese, Tibetan and Western-Style cuisine. During your free days in Kathmandu, you shall finalize arrangements, including your group visa, and take some time out for trinket hunting, with potential visits to explore the 17th century splendors of the Monkey Temple, the Durbar Square and old Kings Palace, as well as the ancient city of Patan. back to top

Lorenz Eugster from Bern jumaring Sterling rope that we just fixed above the red tower (Dan Mazur). Climbers approaching the grey tower at 6050 metres/20,000 feet, October 2005. The route follows the right-hand snow ramp. Rick Coleman from Vancouver, British Columbia took this photo, and he says: "The guys identified as "climbers on the Grey Tower" are actually Doug Sandok (our 2005 Leader - In - Training from Colorado and Wisconsin) first with the red pants, and Mor Doron from Israel next". Samuli Mansikka and Tuomas Sovijarvi, both from Finland, on the summit in 2005. Thats Everest and Lhotse through the clouds behind.

Dan to ABC, Ama Dablam in background. Photographer: Tom Proctor from Indiana. Our nightly radio call on the South West Ridge. Photographer: Robert Chang from California. back to top

Trekking to Basecamp-

For our full-service members, the cost of this expedition includes one of the most beautiful treks in the world. On leaving Kathmandu, we fly to Lukla at 2860 metres/9400 feet, where we meet our yak drivers, and porters. From Lukla we will trek to Phakding (2550 metres/8400 feet) and sleep in a tea house or camp.

We will continue our trek up to Namche Bazaar (3446 metres/11,350 feet), the capital of the Sherpa Kingdom. Here we rest for a day to acclimate, then proceed up to Pangboche (3860 metres/12,700 feet) for a night. The next day we will make the last leg of the trek to basecamp at 4650 metres/15,300 feet. After resting, organizing, and training in basecamp for a day, we will begin our climb. back to top

Moving to Advanced Basecamp-

Base Camp (4650 metres/15,300 feet) to Advanced Basecamp (5500 metres/18,150 feet). Ama Dablam is one of the few Himalayan peaks that can be reached without crossing a glacier. We climb a long gravel ridge-slope, and cross a boulder field on the SW ridge where we will place advanced basecamp. There is water here in early October. We have located one of our skillful cooks here in recent years. back to top

Our advanced basecamp at 5500 metres/18,150 feet. We have a cook here who prepares hot drinks and food to keep us healthy (Chris Kinny from Australia).

High Camps-

Advanced Basecamp to Camp 1 (5700 metres/18,800 feet). We scramble over large boulders and climb an easy fourth class slab, where we fix a "hand-line". In 2007, we established two kitchens, complete with Nepalese cooks, in both ABC and Camp 1. back to top

Camp 1 at 5700 metres/18,800 feet. A beautiful spot to watch the sun go down on Kangtega (Chris Kinny).

Camp 1 to Camp 2 (6000 metres/19,800 feet). We scramble-climb along an easy fourth class horizontal rock ridge and around several pinnacles, gaining only 300 metres/1000 feet, vertical. The exposure is huge, with massive drop-offs on both sides of the ridge. The climbing is very enjoyable with good quality granite. At the end of the horizontal ridge we climb the Yellow Tower with 6 metres, 20 feet of French 4th class, British Severe, North American 5.5. Above the Yellow Tower we place Camp 2 on ledges and a flat-topped rock pinnacle. Camp 2 is probably the most "airy" site you will ever pitch a tent on. Please be very careful when you go to the toilet. back to top

Climbers in the Yellow Tower at 5950 metres/19,600 feet, the hardest climbing on the route, with one tricky move. We double all fixed lines here for safety (Wu Guan Jang). Brewing up in camp 2 at 6000 metres/19,800 feet (Chris Kinny). Camp 2 sits atop this pinnacle at 6000 metres/19,800 feet (Chris Kinny). Climbing out of camp 2 at 6000 metres/19,800 feet, from the base of the grey tower. Kantega in the background (Tom Lannamann).

Duane Morrison climbing up the Grey Couloir, if you look very closely, you can see Rackl Lake approximately 1000 metres/4000 feet, below. We fix only the best ropes on these exposed sections (Chris Kinny). Looking down onto the Mushroom Ridge and across at Kusum Kanguru and Kantega. Note the climber on the ridge. A close up look at tthe infamous Mushroom Ridge at 6150 metres/20,300 feet (Chris Kinny).

Looking up at camp 3 (6300 metres/20,800 feet), with the Dablam above. Its hard to tell but the wind is blowing hard in this photo. See the climbers descending to the right of the Dablam. Photo was taken after summitting upon return to camp 3 (Jay Ullin). Jay Ullin waving from camp 3 at 6300 metres/20,800 feet. Thats Taweche behind him. Ozark tents are strong in this windy camp (Duane Morrison). back to top

Summit Day-

Camp 2 to the Summit (6812 metres/22,349 feet). From camp 2, a steep snow ridge is climbed through the Grey Tower, with one move of French Class 4, British Severe, or 5.5, then multiple fourth class-scrambling pitches in snow, rock and ice. A snow-rock-ice chute is climbed to gain the ridge traverse, named the "mushroom-ridge", which is a very bizarre but fairly stable formation. This is followed to the right side of the base of the Dablam, where camp 3 is made on a broad flat snowfield. In recent years, due to risk of avalanche, we have only used camp 3 as a stop to make hot drinks and rewarm our feet and we have not slept overnight there.

Two easy pitches of dramatic but very solid 40+ degree snow-ice are climbed to the side of the Dablam to reach the fluted, but very easy and solid, 30-48 degree snowfields that lead to one of the worlds finest summits, where you will be treated to incredibly stunning views of the south Face of Lhotse, Nuptse, Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Pumori, Shishapangma, Makalu, and the Khumbu Himal.

We were fortunate to be able to assist in the first ascent by a Nepalese woman, and putting the youngest woman on the summit. Maya Sherpa and Camille Kinny on the summit, with Everest on the right. A beautiful day, if a little windy. When we got back to Kathmandu the reporters were at the hotel and the story was printed in the paper (Chris Kinny). Jangbu and Shera Sherpa descending safely in the yellow tower on doubled extra thick lines. A safe trip down is the most important part of the climb (Wu Guan Jang).

Going Home-

After packing up all of your equipment, supplies, and rubbish, you will make a short return trek the way we came to Lukla to catch our flight back to Kathmandu. Back in Kathmandu, you can enjoy a hot shower and a grand Nepalese western-style feast. You can have a day to relax, celebrate, tour the valley, write postcards, and do a bit more shopping, before heading home. We hope you had a safe, enjoyable, and successful adventure. back to top

Thank You for joining our Ama Dablam Expedition.

SummitClimb Mount Ama Dablam Climb Reviews, Testimonials, Complaints, and Comments

Please Scroll down for more AmaDablam Climb  Review, Testimonial, Endorsement, Complaint, Feedback, Opinion:

Here is what Robert says: I still appreciate your tutelage on Ama Dablam x 2, doing trips in spring in fall - both those trips really got me ready for my Everest summit - Kudos and safe climbs my friend!

Here is what Rob says:  Apologies I haven’t had a moment to send a specific thank you email to you guys yet. Work got busy very fast and I haven’t even had a chance to review all of my photos yet – hoping to do it this weekend!

I thoroughly enjoyed the expedition and was very impressed by the SummitClimb setup. The office staff couldn’t be faulted on their excellent logistics and the expedition leader was brilliant to have with us. The climbing sherpas (Lakpa, Pasang, etc) were really helpful throughout the whole trip and Dorje was an excellent cook. Ama Dablam was a beautiful mountain and I’m delighted I climbed with SummitClimb this year on my first trip to Nepal.

I’ll take a few weeks to reflect, but may consider an 8,000er in the future. We’ll see!“ 

 
Summit Photo. Felix and Rob. 

 

Here is what James has to say:  Dear SummitClimb:  Here are a few things that come to mind.
 
Very nice to not have to walk herded in a line as a single large group on the trek, which other outfits were doing. We all found one another anyway.

The flexibility in tackling the climb from base camp was helpful. People going up in separate smaller groups, and with the option of going down.

Shakti Hotel was good enough to stay in. Being able to stay in teahouses as opposed to tents along the trekking trail was quite nice, given the weather situation and options. It was very nice to be able to access the duffel bags on the yaks, in the evenings as we gathered in each mountain village on trek. Pleasant to make a couple friends of trekkers who joined us for a few dinners and breakfasts during the trek; nice to be open and friendly. Good job on making the call to send a few people down who were not acclimatizing, as well-being is a sensitive concern easily overlooked. It was nice having an itinerary and following it closely enough. Gave a sense of schedule and progress. Especially with participants' varying arrivals. Having individual tents at base camp was very nice, and what a treat it was each morning to be greeted with hot tea. A small touch, but invaluable.

This was a semi-technical climb, and not all members were experienced in rock climbing and rappelling techniques. Reviewing at base camp was useful.

It was a good trip, whether we all summited or not. We all came back healthy and alive, which cannot be said of some members of other teams that were on the same route as us (of course our condolences for them). Thank you for being a climber yourself, and living a lifestyle that is simple and admirable. Too often in this world we get caught up with appearances and competing for what is not really worthwhile. While I didn't personally summit, the trip was a unique experience. It's valuable to see one's own limits, both physical and mental, and to come to terms with what we decide will ultimately make us happy.
 
Cheers,

James

Tenji Sherpa setting up a tent in Camp 1. Photo James Barritt. Top to bottom - Tenji, Maggie, Saz, and Mark climbing up to the white tower. James Barritt Photo.
 
Tenji Sherpa setting up a tent in Camp 1. Photo James Barritt. Top to bottom - Tenji, Maggie, Saz, and Mark climbing up to the white tower. James Barritt Photo.

Here is what Paul says:

Thanks for a great trip, I would love to try again in a couple of years oct 2016, a great Himalayan adventure, Thanks Paul

Here is what Tom says:

Many thanks for arranging the trip. While Ama Dablam was a different challenge than initially envisioned I had a great time on the mountain and enjoyed myself greatly.   The decision to break up the waiting game with a foray to Island Peak was inspired: for those of us that went and did that climb that was the highlight of the trip.

Commendations to Dani and to Lakba for their wonderful service.   Dani did a great job with both the Oct team and the November team and has a very good handle on what is required in order to lead a diverse group of type A personalities. He was patient, decisive and careful.    Lakba worked wonderfully hard - confirming rooms, arranging meals and helping me with my gear.  He also is a valuable part of your team.

Here is what Adrian says:

Hi,
 
My body is back at home, but my soul has a way to travel yet - I think there is an Arabic saying along the lines that distances shouldn't be covered quicker than the pace of a camel - travelling thousands of miles overnight just isn't good for the psyche.
 
I feel that the Ama Dablam trip went resoundingly well, and I was well impressed by the enthusiasm and professionalism of the leader, sherpas, and the other staff.  It was also appreciated that the office staff took time to collate everyone's photos and distribute a DVD of them. 

The quantity and quality of food (and having kitchen tents at ABC and Camp

1) definitely helped to keep us all going. 
 
We were lucky the group got along so well together, that the weather was not too unkind, and that no-one was too ill or injured (as we witnessed in many of the groups around us in basecamp).  Our sensible acclimitisation programme probably helped here too. The cooks, Sherpas and porters all worked very hard to ensure the expedition succeeded, so I hope their experiences of the group and trip generally are as positive as mine.  I speculate that the type of expedition on offer (e.g. not a fully guided
experience) attracted a certain type of physically fit, experienced, and independent-minded client, which contributed to the overall success of the trip.
 
A few minor things could be "tweaked" though. • It's worth mentioning on the web just how good cell reception is in Nepal even at one end of basecamp people were able to SMS and call.

  • Also, the ease of charging phones etc at basecamp - I was amazed how simple it was, and didn't need a car type (cigar-lighter) plug (as mentioned on the web as being necessary).
  • It's probably worth suggesting members invest in buying cheap holdalls in KTM to put their luggage in for the flight and, more importantly, for carrying by beasties of burden.
  • A simple (photocopyable) map of Thamel showing "recommended" gear shops, banks, and the supermarkets would have been really timesaving and useful.
  • Make ski-goggles recommended not optional in the kit-list.  The prospect of strong winds made having them in the bag very reassuring.

These are minor points, and they in no way detracted from the overall enjoyment and positive experience of the expedition. Regards, Adrian. back to top

Ama Dablam in the morning (Nikos Daniilidis). Ama Dablam seen along the approach trek to basecamp (Nikos Daniilidis)

Here is what Sam N says:

Almost everyone on the trip made the summit!!!!! The team worked well together and got along well, the food was pretty good and prepared well so that no one got sick. The cooks did a good job preparing food to keep everyone healthy. The leader did a good job allowing time for the team to summit on summit day and he was personable.

- Sam N
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Here is what Wanda, Ama Dablam summitter who has been on climbs with other companies has to say:

"What I liked best about this expedition was the focus of independence that was placed on each person. I have been on other "guided" climbs and I never felt like I was gaining much in the ability to become a self-sufficient climber. On this trip, I felt good about the knowledge and confidence that was gained, knowing that I had to take care of myself as well as look out for those on my team. I especially liked they way everyone climbed at the rate that best suited their own fitness level. I never once had the feeling that I was waiting for someone to catch-up or that I was holding up the team.

We were fortunate to be able to assist in the first ascent by a Nepalese woman, and putting the youngest woman on the summit. Maya Sherpa and Camille Kinny on the summit, with Everest on the right. A beautiful day, if a little windy. When we got back to Kathmandu the reporters were at the hotel and the story was printed in the paper. Ama Dablam behind the village of Pangboche (3,860 metres/12,700 feet).Photo Chris Kinny.

There are a couple of things that I feel individuals can do to make this trip an enjoyable experience.

1. Train! I have always found that the more fit I am, the more I enjoy any expedition. Also, research the route and come prepared with the knowledge of what to expect.

2. Come with a relaxed, open mind. The team dynamics on my Ama Dablam trip were great because there were no stringent agendas (personal, or otherwise) I have found that it is the less uptight people that generally have the best experience and now that I think of it, the reason the Ama Dablam trip was free of this aspect was probably because of the personalities of the leaders. They are serious about why they are there, yet it is approached with a "no worries" attitude. I LOVED THAT! And it obviously worked, because every member of our team summitted.

Because we had many Sherpa on our team and we interacted a lot during the climb, I felt this was a cultural experience as well. Many spoke a little English so we were able to converse, ask questions about their lifestyle and customs. They were an integral part of our expedition, hard working and very experienced. I was glad to have had this interaction as it gave that much more feeling to an “international” endeavor.

My concern about any problems in Nepal I heard about before the trip were non-existent in the areas we traveled. We did not witness any such disturbance. Traveling as a single female, I am probably a little more cautious than most but I have to say that never once did I feel concerned about my safety.

Looking back, if there was one thing that I would suggest to make this trip better it would be more yak cheese pizza at basecamp! Yum, this stuff was delicious.

Overall, this company gets top marks for their operation and that is why I will definitely climb with them again in the future." back to top

Our leader and team member on the mushroom ridge looking down. Photo Dan Mazur. A close up look at tthe infamous Mushroom Ridge at 6150 metres/20,300 feet. Photo Chris Kinny

Here is what summitter Kurt has to say:

"I personally felt the trip was very well organized and executed. I was very impressed that you cared enough about the anchors and ropes to fix them properly. Most other expeditions seemed to not care and were willing to use whatever was currently in place.

The list of good things on this trip is rather extensive:

  • -Individual and common tents at base camp -Morning tea served to us while we were still in our sleeping bags!!!
  • -Three excellent meals every day.
  • -Shower and washing facilities.
  • -Excellent logistical support for full and basic service.
  • -Many helpful and friendly sherpas all the way the summit if you need them.
  • -Personable and knowledgeable leaders.
  • -Friendly logistical staff.
  • -Plenty of time to acclimate and accomplish our climbing goals.
  • -Flexibility to accommodate different member’s needs.
  • -Low key approach to expedition climbing.
  • -Audience with the High Lama of Pangboche and another holy man who walked up to BC to bless us all once again.
  • -The end of expedition family-style party at the home of our local Nepalese agent!!!" back to top

Our advanced basecamp at 5500 metres/18,150 feet. We have a cook here who prepares hot drinks and food to keep us healthy. Camp 3 at 6300 metres/20,800 feet.Photo Dan Mazur

Here is what Stein from Norway had to say about our October 2007 expedition:

"Regarding the expedition I have only praise for you!!

 

Although I guess there were more members than usual, I found that pretty much everything went smooth and efficiently. I found the base-camp staff and the climbing Sherpas at least as friendly and helpful as last year. The organisation of basecamp and the climb itself could not have been done any better given the circumstances!!

 

Back in Lukla, Kami provided us with the flexibility to return to Katmandu when we wished. In Kathmandu Murari and Deha were helpful beyond any expectations! (And it was nice to chill out at "Yak and Yeti" where the breakfast was worth the price alone!! Murari negotiated a very favourable rate for us!)

 

The new web site is very good and feedback from family and friends says that they were able to follow the expedition very closely!! BZ!

 

I have no hesitations in recommending this trip to anyone. All in all I am very satisfied with the trip!!" back to top

 

Here is what Bjorn from Norway had to say about our October 2007 expedition:

Thank you for a fantastic trip! I'm safely back home, already back at work!

Regarding your expedition, all I have is praise! Things very generally well organized, however provided enough slack to allow a lot of personal preferences. Everyone in the staff were good people, the climbing sherpa's were strong and the kitchen staff made great food and took good care of us.

Impressive staff, and I would like to mention the climbing sidar, Kagi, as a person who made lasting good impressions.

I also felt that the schedule of the trip regarding the trek in, acclimatization and duration was good, and well thought out.

Thank you for a great adventure, a spectacular summit, nice people and staff and fantastic weather. back to top

Gyelje Sherpa in the lower part of the grey tower. Checkout camp two on top of the yellow tower in the lower left. photo by Maaike Braat Camp 2.7 on Ama Dablam at 5950 metres / 19,500 feet. Photo by Maaike Braat
 
Gyelje Sherpa in the lower part of the grey tower. Checkout camp two on top of the yellow tower in the lower left. photo by Maaike Braat. Camp 2.7 on Ama Dablam at 5950 metres / 19,500 feet. Photo by Maaike Braat

Here is what Joanne from Birmingham, England had to say about our October 2007 expedition:

First and foremost I have to thank you for warming my toes in camp 3 and suggesting swapping my layers around - I'm sure I couldn't have gone a step further if you hadn't helped with the defrosting exercise!!

I really enjoyed the trip and the whole group were great fun to be with. Considering how large the group was, and a number of concerns about this were raised amongst the group, the ascent groups were pretty well organised.

The meals were pretty darned good considering logistics, supplies and camp locations. The lighting was excellent in the mess tent. The cooks were great and so polite and hard-working in all camps.

I was really impressed with the sherpas - Lakpa and Tenzing were great!

Great to have a shower tent and a ladies pee tent (these were about the only places where there were no peeing men in view!!)

Looking for the next mountain to climb!

Hanging out around camp 1 on a sunny day. Joanne from Birmingham and our leader, Dan Mazur, on the summit. Photo Joanne Goodson.

Here is what summitter Eric Elliot had to say about our October 2007 expedition:

"Strictly speaking, this was an "unguided" expedition. However, there was always some "guidance" prior to and during this fantastic expedition. Before my trip, SummitClimb answered many questions that I had by email, clearly and in a timely fashion. What's more, during the expedition, the leader and his excellent Staff, assistant leaders, and extremely competent Sherpas were always available to explain technique and offer assistance to ensure the best possible chance of success.

This does not imply that minor improvements can never be thought of for a very comprehensive, well-coordinated and well-established expedition with optimal flexibility, but everything detailed on the excellent website was accomplished and so nothing more could be expected. Thank you so much! - for your thoughtfulness right from the start, and for sharing your extensive experience with the entire group throughout." back to top

 
Ama Dablam behind the village of Pangboche (3,860 metres/12,700 feet). Photo Chris Kinny. A close up look at tthe infamous Mushroom Ridge at 6150 metres/20,300 feet. Photo Chris Kinny

 

Here is what Richard  P says:

I have now been a member on 3 Summitclimb expeditions, repeat business is the best complement any business can receive. Summitclimb have extensive experience on a number of mountains and I have found all three of my Summitclimb expeditions to be well organised and I’ve had no doubt we’d get to our mountain even when other companies were having visa or logistic problems.

The climbing sherpas and base camp staff are a close knit group and work hard for each other and the team in a very family atmosphere, always welcoming team members to join in their camaraderie. It has been very special to re-ignite friendships with the Sherpa team on my two subsequent Summitclimb expeditions. The climbing Sherpas have been an inspiration, especially Tenji and Thile, it is incredible the effort and power they exert for the team cause. I recommend Summitclimb to all of my friends.
  back to top

If you would like to contact our previous members, please send an email to info@summitclimb.com

We take our member's feedback and testimonials seriously. These help us to refine and make our trips a successful, safe, and enjoyable experience for our future teams.

Mount Ama Dablam Expedition Climb Leadership & Staff | SummitClimb

Leadership: During this full-service expedition, you will benefit from the leadership provided by Dan Mazur.

It is Dan's 5 Succesful Ama Dablam expeditions. He is a relaxed, friendly and well organized person, and a highly-skilled professional with 20 years of experience in getting people to the summit and back down with the highest attention to safety. For more about Dan, please "click" on the Leadership link above.

A meeting on the roof of our hotel, where we describe the plan of our expedition. The audience, our trekkers and climbers. Felix and Arnold demonstrating the members high mountain equipment before a shopping trip to one of Kathmandu's 50 mountain shops to purchase any needed essentials for the members (Franck Pitula).

 Note: Our leaders are not guides. They are there to coordinate the expedition and may or may not climb with you personally on the mountain. Our leaders will try to do everything they can to help you, but it is your responsibility to have the skills, strength, equipment, etcetera to do this climb. If you are unsure, you may wish to hire a personal sherpa.

Organization: During this full-service expedition, you will benefit from the organization provided by Dan Mazur. He is a relaxed, friendly and well organized person, and a highly-skilled professional with years of experience in getting people to the summit and back down with the highest attention to safety. He has been leading and organizing successful and safe overland, trekking, and mountaineering expeditions for 18 years, to Tibet, Nepal, Tadjikistan, Pakistan, India, China, Africa, and North America. For more about Dan, please "click" on the Leadership link above.

Sherpas: We hire Sherpas and high altitude porters in a support capacity, and now have 23 of these very experienced, friendly, strong, helpful, and loyal people on our staff, including some of Nepal and Tibet's best climbers and some of Nepal's only women Sherpas. Some of our Sherpas have been to the summit of Ama Dablam more than 5 times. One of our lady sherpas just became the first Nepalese woman to reach the summit. Many of our sherpas have personally assisted foreign climbers to the summits of more than ten of the highest peaks in the Himalaya.

Note: We strive to provide one group sherpa for each 3-4 members. The group sherpa's duty is to carry group equipment such as tents, rope, food, and gas up and down the mountain. Group sherpas help to setup and take down camps. They are also there to try to assist in any rescues, so the other members may not have to give up their summit attempt to rescue a sick member. They may not be available to climb with members and in some instances, you may be called upon to help carry group equipment and help with group work. If you need more sherpa assistance, we encourage you to hire a personal sherpa.

For a minimal expense, we can also provide personal sherpas to individual members who wish to have their own private sherpa or personal climbing-guide. We now encourage members to hire a 1/4 of a sherpa, to help with high altitude equipment transport, both up and down the mountain. For more information about hiring a personal sherpa, please click here to learn more.

Staff: Our staff, working together as "Everest Parivar Expeditions, Pvt. Ltd." in our busy agency office in Kathmandu is led by the experienced and influential Mr. Murari Sharma. They are hospitality experts and have, for the last 21 years, been arranging overland tours, safaris, raft trips, treks, mountain climbs, trek support staff, cooks, peak climbing permits, satellite phone permits, video and film-making permits, translators, liaison officers, climbing Sherpas, oxygen, helicopter flights, air tickets, equipment purchase/hire, storage, import/export, shipping, customs clearance, transport bookings, advance hotel bookings, visas, repatriations, and permits.

Our staff in Kathmandu are available to assist you 24 hours per day, seven days per week. It does not matter which day nor at what time you arrive or depart Kathmandu, they will meet your flight, take you to the hotel, help you find essential things like money changing, shopping, arrange tours of the city, etcetera. back to top

We need individuals interested in becoming climbing leaders. The Leader-in-Training Programme is open to individuals to participate in any of the mountain expedition climbs offered by SummitClimb.com. If you are already a professional mountain guide, we are glad to offer you a 10% discount. We provide this on all trips to UIAGM, MLTB, AMGA, BMG, and all other certified climbing guides from every nation. Thank you for joining our team.

From Left:Murari K. Sharma - Everest Parivar Exp. Pvt. Ltd(MD), Jangbu Sherpa - Climbing Sherpa, Pemba Sherpa - High Altitude Kitchen Boy, Dorjee Lama - High Altitude Kitchen Boy, Tempa Sherpa - Basecamp Kitchen Boy, Krishna Rana Marag - Trekking Guide, Deha K Shrestha - Manager, Kandu Sherpa - Lady Trekking Guide, Cho-Wang Sherpa - Friend, Maya Sherpa - Lady Climbing Sherpa

Our leaders, staff, and sherpas look forward to serving you on our expeditions to form a successful team and create a rewarding experience.

Mount Ama Dablam Expedition Climb Your Experience & Training | SummitClimb

 Please "click" one of the links below to go directly to that information or scroll down.

Team Member Experience:

Our goal is to work together as a team so that all members reach the top safely. We do not expect you to be expert (although some members are) but, nor are we a climbing school (although we do conduct one or two days of training at the beginning of each expedition). If you need fundamental technical training, and snow and ice experience, we urge you to participate in our GLACIER SCHOOL held each spring and autumn. Members need to have experience in being part of a team, working toward a common goal, and be ready to work with the group and be a good "team-player".

Our leaders and our team-climbing-sherpas, are there to ensure (for our full-service members) you make it up to the summit and down safely. However, this is not a guided expedition (although you could hire your own personal guide, sherpas, etcetera), and team members are expected to be able to care for themselves in a winter-camping and climbing environment. Obviously, when climbing the most famous semi-technical rock-ice-snow peak in all Asia, there are hazards present, and members must have experience in roped rock and ice climbing techniques (to protect from falling down the mountain), and have rock climbing experience. It is also required that all members will have an awareness of altitude sickness, frostbite, and the recognition of their symptoms, prevention, and treatment. Once traveling above camp 1, all members must be prepared to be tied into the fixed lines at all times.

We welcome you to join our expedition as an individual and most of our members do. We plan to assemble our team members into groups so you should not have to climb alone, although occasionally it may happen. By the way, we are unable to accommodate 'soloists' who are not willing to climb together with other team members or sherpas from our team. The main expectation is that members will be prepared to climb with a team member or sherpa above basecamp if possible. This practice ensures that the entire team has a fun, successful, and safe time on the mountain.

For Ama Dablam, please be able to follow, ascend, and descend unlimited pitches of moderate “scrambling” and occasional very short pitches up to “British Severe” or North American 5.6, while wearing your plastic boots and gloves.

You should be very fit and healthy, with experience and knowledge of all winter climbing techniques.

NOTE: Please don’t underestimate this climb. Although there is only one 6 metre, 20 foot section of grade French 4, British severe, or North America 5.5, (the rest of the climb is known as "scrambling" or "4th class") there are complicating factors which you may not find at home on your local crag and definitely not in the rock-gym. These may include: ice, snow, high-altitude, temperature, weather, exposure, and other factors. Thank you for considering this climb carefully.  back to top

Fitness and Health:

To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active winter-walker-climber in good health. Prior to joining our group, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in extremes of altitude, and also for exotic locales.

Note: You can purchase all necessary medicines inexpensively with no doctor's prescription in Kathmandu. Please make sure you have physically trained yourself very thoroughly before joining this climb of one ofthe sixth highest peak in the world. We look forward to climbing together with you! back to top

Training Prior to the Expedition:

  • Firstly, you should always consult your doctor before starting a rigorous exercise plan.
  • In the beginning, to see how you handle the training, and to avoid muscle strains that could slow your training down, you may wish to use shorter more frequent but less taxing workouts, and take more rest. After you get "up to speed" as it were, you could increase the rigour. Older climbers and walkers please take note of the latter. Also remember that swimming is an excellent form of training because it does not put stress upon your joints. Thank you.
  • In order to train well for your trip you should work toward excercising 3 to 4 times a week for between 40 minutes and an hour and a half each time. You should expect to work hard, and try to keep your heartrate quite high and your breathing quite heavy.
  • Adequate rest and a well balanced diet are also essential to avoid injury and illness before the expedition. You should sleep at least 8 hours per night, and eat 3 nutritious meals a day. Don't forget that you will perspire when you train, so try to drink at least 4 litres/quarts of water a day.
  • You may wish to engage the services of a personal trainer, who could help you to fine tune your fitness to a higher level while minimizing strain and maximising your potential in ways you might not have imagined. Personal trainers can also be a great motivator, as you and the trainer have your weekly session, thus you will feel an incentive to complete your planned fitness programme for that week.
  • Utilising both gym equipment and the great outdoors will provide a more balanced exercise programme. You should try to accomplish at least half of your workouts outside. This could include walking and running (On stairs and hills too) and cycling, but above all should be fun! Hillwalking and climbing with a pack weighing 5-10 Kilos/10-20 pounds is essential. If you don't have hills, why not go for stairs, bleachers, viewing stands, stadiums, even the stairways in tall buildings? Don't forget to spend time directly working the muscles of the legs, back and shoulders, and remember that your own body weight can be just as effective as weights, or machines.
  • About 6 weeks before the expedition departure date, you may wish to do 1 full day each week of hill walking, climbing or an equivalent, with a light rucksack. On that day, you would want to eventually work toward six-eight hours of continuous walking or climbing up and down hill, with 4 to 6 separate ten minute breaks and a 1/2 to 1 hour lunch break midway through.
  • To minimize the chance of injuring yourself, consider starting with a half day and then if you do well, increase to 2/3, then eventually to a full day, once a week.
  • We want you to arrive for your expedition in top shape, so please take plenty of rest and do not over-do it.
  • Hint: when carrying a rucksack while descending, walking, or climbing down-hill, try carrying a bit less in your rucksack in order to save your knees. Many trainers advise carrying water bottles up the hill then emptying them at the top so your rucksack is lightened for the trip down. back to top

Training During the Expedition:

  • Upon arrival in Kathmandu and in the base camp, ALL full-service and basic-climb members are requested to participate in one to two days of orientation to how the trip will be operated, with plenty of time for discussion, question answering and time for equipment review and purchasing, also training will be conducted both in Kathmandu and in basecamp in the areas of climbing techniques, glacier travel, rope fixing, ascending, descending, safety techniques, rappels (abseils), belaying, medical equipment and procedures, communications equipment, camping techniques and high-altitude cooking. For the expert and beginner alike, it is important to review these techniques in order to enhance skills, ensure safety-awareness, and work together as a team. back to top

We hope that you will arrive for your Ama Dablam Expedition in good health, both mentally and physically prepared, so we can work together as a team and have a successful expedition.

Mount Ama Dablam Climb Personal & Team Equipment | SummitClimb

Below is a detailed list of equipment you need to bring for Ama Dablam and at the bottom is a description of team equipment that we bring for you. (Click Link below to go directly to that section of the personal equipment list or just scroll down):

Please go to our personal & team equipment section of the "Ama Dablam Questions" for additional information and detailed discussion of the equipment lists below.

Where should I purchase my equipment?
Please "click here" to view our list of recommendations on where to purchase kit from our Ama Dablam Frequently Asked Questions.

Climbing-

  • Climbing harness;
  • 2 locking carabiners, 1 large and 1 small;
  • 4 regular carabiners;
  • Ice axe w/leash;
  • 1 mechanical ascender with handle and arm length leash;
  • Crampons - must fit boots perfectly. Steel crampons with anti-balling (anti-bot) plates are the best;
  • Optional; Adjustable trekking poles;
  • Figure 8/Abseil belay device;
  • 5 metres / 15 feet of 6mm climber's accessory cord. back to top

Upper Body-

  • 2 cotton t-shirts;
  • 1 polypropylene t-shirt;
  • 2 long sleeve polypropylene shirts, lightweight;
  • 1 polar fleece pullovers, medium weight;
  • Lightweight down jacket for those chilly days in basecamp;
  • Gore-Tex jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable;
  • For high altitude use, 1 very warm goose-down (duvet) jacket with hood;
  • 1 polar fleece jacket.
  • Umbrella (optional) back to top

Hands-

  • 1 pr. lightweight poly-liner gloves. These will be worn when tying knots, but not inside your mitts;
  • 1 pair mittens, consists of 1 Gore-tex over mitt matched with the very warm polar fleece mitt liner.

Head-

  • Helmet
  • Warm hat wool or synthetic that covers your ears;
  • Balaclava;
  • Face mask;
  • Ballcap or brimmed suncap;
  • Glacier glasses with side shields;
  • 1 pair ski goggles (Optional) with light and dark lens;
  • Headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs;
  • Bandana. back to top

Lower Body-

  • 1 pair walking shorts;
  • 1 pair walking trousers for trekking and around camp;
  • 2 pair lightweight thermal bottoms;
  • 1 pair medium or expedition weight thermal bottoms;
  • Cotton underwear briefs;
  • 1 pair fleece, polar, or pile trousers;
  • 1 pair Gore-Tex trousers, salopettes, or bibs. Waterproof/breathable with full side zips.

All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large plastic bags. back to top

Feet-

Ama Dablam boot/shoe requirements: 

  • Plastic double (Koflach-style) boots with a removable liner. Must fit comfortably with one thick and one thin sock and vapour barrier liner;
Or:
  • 1 pair One-Sport Millet Everest boots or equivalent;
Note: Some people would like to bring single boots for Ama Dablam. We don't really recommend single boots for this expedition. Ama Dablam is really too cold for single boots. Frostbite is not an option on our expeditions. If your single boot has a special super-warm insulated liner and fits two thick pair of socks and a vapour barrier liner comfortably it might work. But, most people would never buy a single-boot so large. Did you?
Attention: All climbing boots must fit your crampons perfectly before leaving home.
  • 2- pair of liner socks. Polypropylene or wool;
  • 2 pair light weight trekking socks, poly or wool;
  • 2 pair med-heavy poly or wool socks;
  • 1 pair down booties (optional);
  • vapour barrier liner socks or plastic bread-bags;
  • 1 pair leather, top-quality trekking boots ("broken-in" please) .You will use these boots to climb to camp 2 on Ama Dablam;
  • 1 pair trainers, running shoes and/or sandals for Kathmandu and in camp. They are also great for trekking to basecamp on wide, flat trails in some areas.
Sleeping-
  • For high altitude, 1 down (duvet) sleeping bag (rated to – 20 Centigrade or -0 Fahrenheit). In the high camp, you can sleep in your down clothing inside the tent;
  • 1 additional sleeping bag for basecamp (good to -10 degrees C or 10 degrees F);
  • 3 closed cell foam kari-mat for use in basecamp and high altitude, We do not recommend inflatable mats, as we have never seen one not puncture. You can buy these non inflatable mats very inexpensively in Kathmandu. Why carry foam mats around the world, when you can purchase them inexpensively in Kathmandu.
Your sleeping bags should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large plastic bags. back to top

Rucksack and Travel Bags-

  • 1 medium rucksack (50-70 litres / 3000-4500 cubic inches, can be used for airplane carry);
  • Waterproof rucksack cover (optional);
  • 2 large (120 L / 7500 cubic inch) duffle bags for gear. Must be durable for use on pack animals;
  • Small padlocks for duffel bags. back to top

Personal Hygiene-

  • female or male hygiene supplies;
  • 2 tubes lip sun cream, 1 tube skin sun cream (min.factor 15);
  • anti-mosquito cream;
  • 1 skin blister repair kit;
  • 1 toothpaste/brush;
  • 1 bar soap/1 small towel;
  • Camp towel;
  • Hand wipes;
  • additional sun creams. back to top

Medical-

Medications are inexpensive and readily available in Kathmandu with no Doctor's prescription:

  • Small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, Moleskin, mole foam, waterproof first-aid tape, athletic tape, Band-Aids, personal medications, etc. The guides will have extensive first-aid kits, so leave anything extra behind. Please let your guide know about any medical issues before the climb;
  • 1 small bottle anti-diarrhea pills;
  • 1 small bottle anti-headache pills;
  • 1 small bottle cough and/or cold medicine;
  • 1 small bottle anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox, Acetylzolamide;
  • 1 small bottle stomach antibiotic: Ciprofloxacin, etc.;
  • Do not bring sleeping pills. They are a respiratory depressant;
  • 1 small bottle of water purification tablets or water filter;
  • 1 set earplugs;
  • extra prescription glasses, contact lens supplies. Contact lens wearers, please bring glasses in case of emergency. A new pair could be quickly made in Kathmandu, Lhasa, or Kashgar for just $20. Please order in advance if you are interested. back to top

Personal Food-

Our skillful cooks prepare 3 delicious hot meals and plenty of drinks each day in basecamp, advanced basecamp, and camp 1.

On the mountain we supply plenty of food for you to cook 3 hot meals each day. This food will consist of soup, local cheese & sausage, biscuits, dried noodles, potatoes, rice, porridge, butter, dried and tinned vegetables, fruit, meats, and fish, tea with milk and sugar, powdered juice drink, and drinking chocolate. Our sherpas will be carrying this food to the higher camps.

  • We ask each member to bring their own imported daily snack and energy foods. We also ask members to bring 2 dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for their summit attempt. We do not provide cold “snack” food such as chocolate or "energy-bars". We ask that you bring or buy your own "snack" or daily cold energy food, 2-4 kilos is a good amount. A growing variety of imported foods such as European and American cheeses, chocolates, biscuits, cookies, nuts, and locally made power-bars are now available in Kathmandu, at realistic prices. However, imported power bars, GU, re-hydration drinks, dehydrated food, "freeze-dried meals", imported cheese and sausage are not available. If you want these items, you must bring them from your home country. Many of our members, especially Britons, Europeans, and Australians with tiny baggage allowances, now purchase their daily snacks in Kathmandu. Our schedule in Kathmandu allows plenty of time for shopping.

Practical- back to top

  • 1 small roll of repair tape, 1 sewing repair kit;
  • 1 cigarette lighter, 1 small box matches;
  • 1 compass or GPS, 1 small multi-purpose knife;
  • 1 battery powered alarm clock/watch;
  • 1 camera and film, or digital camera with extra cards and extra batteries;
  • Nylon stuff sacks For food and gear storage, large Ziplocs are useful also;
  • 3 Water bottles 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene (1 is a pee bottle);
  • 1 plastic cup and spoon;
  • 1 small folding knife;
  • Binoculars (optional);
  • 4 large, waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks;
  • passport, 2 extra passport photos, flight ticket, flight itinerary;
  • separate photocopies of passport and relevant visa pages, proof of insurance;
  • Dollars, Pounds or Euros cash for purchasing Nepalese visa at Kathmandu airport, for paying for restaurants and hotels, for gratuities, snacks, and to purchase your own drinks and gifts;
  • 1 bathing suit/swimming costume (you never know);
  • Credit cards, Bank/ATM/Cash machine cards for use for withdrawing funds from cash machines (bring a photocopy of your cards), traveler's checks, etc.;
  • Base Camp Items. It is good to bring additional items which you have found to be useful on previous expeditions. For example: paperback books, playing cards, ipod mp3 player, short-wave radio, game boys, musical instruments, ear plugs, lots of batteries, etc.;
  • Travel Clothes for basecamp and in town.
  • Please be sure and bring your patience and try to keep an open, relaxed, positive and friendly attitude as travelling in this part of the world may be very different than what you are used to, but things always seem to fall into place at the last moment. Thank you.

* This is not an exhaustive list. Please submit other equipment concerns and suggestions. Thank you. back to top

Group Equipment:

We provide a plethora of top-quality, and time-tested equipment, group gear, and supplies, including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection; basecamp, advanced basecamp and altitude tents; cookers, fuel, high-altitude food, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. We now provide an individual tent for each member in basecamp, so you do not have to share. We also have a shower and toilet tent for Basecamp. Please see the group EQUIPMENT link, in the menu bars above to study what we bring for your use and safety.

back to top

Please submit any equipment questions or concerns to: info@summitclimb.com

Mount Ama Dablam Climbing Expedition Questions Section | SummitClimb

Mount Ama Dablam Expedition Climbing Video Clips | SummitClimb

Below are some short video clips taken from our recent Ama Dablam expedition. Please click the picture or title in the left column to view each clip. In the right column is the description for each video.

All clips taken from "Journey to Ama Dablam", videographer and director: Scott Darsney, produced by Luna Films.

One of the worlds finest summits (6,812 metres/22,349 feet), with incredibly stunning views of the south Face of Lhotse, Nuptse, Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Pumori, Shishapangma, Makalu, and the Khumbu Himal. 1 minute long (7 MB). 

Mushroom Ridge

The infamous Mushroom Ridge at 6150 metres/20,300 feet. 0:12 seconds(1.5 MB).

C1

Camp 1 at 5700 metres/18,800 feet. 1 minute (9 MB).

 

C2

Camp 2 at 6000 metres/19,800 feet. 1:20 minutes (12 MB).

C3

Camp 3 at 6280 metres/20,600 feet. 0:40 seconds(6 MB).

Puja

Our sherpas and team members participating in a puja ceremony in basecamp at 4650 metres/15,300 feet. 0:50 seconds (7MB).

ABC

Advanced Basecamp at 5500 metres/18,150 feet. 0:45 seconds (6.5 MB).

Namche

Namche Bazaar at 3,440 metre/11,300 feet, the capital of the Sherpa people. 0:50 seconds (7 MB).

Trek

A few scenes of the trek to basecamp, including the town of Tengboche. 0:55 seconds (7.5 MB).

 

Lukla

A scene of our team flying from Kathmandu to Lukla aboard a sturdy 18 seat twin-otter propeller plane, which takes 40 minutes. 0:45 seconds (6.5 MB).

Teahouse

Team members enjoying a delicious meal at one of the comfortable tea houses we stay in along our trek to basecamp. 0:40 seconds (5.5 MB).

Kathmandu

A few scenes of the ancient and colourful city of Kathmandu, where the trip begins. 0:25 seconds (3.5 MB).

 

If you wish to purchase our mountain climbing and trekking films, please contact Videoland Productions.

You can can go to their site www.videolandproductions.com and email info@videolandproductions.com or call (+1)360-491-1332 to buy any and all of the mountain climbing and trekking films we have. Please tell them we said hi!

We will be expanding with more Ama Dablam video clips.

Mount Ama Dablam Climbing News & Expedition Dispatches | SummitClimb

Archive news: Please click here

 
Team members trekking out of basecamp, with Ama Dablam in the background, after a successful and safe summit (Valerie Hovland).
 
 
Thank you for reading about our past Ama Dablam Expeditions. To follow along with our ongoing trips around the world, please view our "Recent News" section.

Mt Ama Dablam Expedition Climb International Members Application | SummitClimb

What questions do you have? Please ask as many questions as possible. This helps us to have a proper conversation so we can better understand one-another's expectations, so you will have a very safe, enjoyable, and successful expedition. Thank you. Before completing the application forms, please be sure to carefully study the Ama Dablam "Questions" website for information regarding flights, payment, team members, application forms, insurance, etcetera: Ama Dablam Frequently Asked Questions.

Below you should find a pdf or MS document containing the application pro forma. Are you able to read it? When all of your questions have been answered to your satisfaction, please print out the application and return it to us with your refundable ten-percent deposit, to hold your place in our team. Would you please just post it to us at the mailing address you will find on the form? Thank you very much. If you decide not to go, your deposit will be refunded according to our refund policy. Your registration and the final payment must be completed two months prior to the expedition starting date. Thank you very much.

Click here to download the PDF Form for International Applicants

If you don't have reader please get it here

Here is a checklist of what we need to have in your file at least two months before the trip begins. We encourage you to send an electronic scan of all of the below documents, please be sure they are signed. Thank you:

[ ] Completed Payment. Please restate payments you made and what those payments were for, ie full vs basic, sherpas, etc.
[ ] Make your Sherpa order (if any) crystal clear at this time, personal sherpa, quarter sherpa, payment, etc.
[ ] Trip Registration Form (part of 4 page form),
[ ] Signed Participant Release and Acknowledgement of Risk (part of 4 page form),
[ ] Signed Terms and Conditions of Booking (part of 4 page form),
[ ] Signed Medical Form (part of 4 page form),
[ ] 1 Passport sized photo, which is a simple, very clear picture of your face, sent as an email scan. (We simply require a picture of your face against a white background. You can take it yourself for free with your own digital camera or smart phone),
[ ] Exact photocopy of passport identification pages,
[ ] Exact photocopy of complete flight itinerary,
[ ] Proof of mountain rescue and repatriation insurance,
[ ] Proof of travel, accident, and repatriation insurance (cancellation and trip interruption insurance is advised).

Please do let us know what further questions you may have about the registration process, or anything else for that matter. Thank you.

Welcome to our team.

Mount Ama Dablam Expedition Climb US Members Application | SummitClimb

What questions do you have? Please ask as many questions as possible. This helps us to have a proper conversation so we can better understand one-another's expectations, so you will have a very safe, enjoyable, and successful expedition. Thank you. Before completing the application forms, please be sure to carefully study the Ama Dablam "Questions" website for information regarding flights, payment, team members, application forms, insurance, etcetera: Ama Dablam Frequently Asked Questions.

Below you should find a pdf or MS document containing the application pro forma. Are you able to read it? When all of your questions have been answered to your satisfaction, please print out the application and return it to us with your refundable ten-percent deposit, to hold your place in our team. Would you please just post it to us at the mailing address you will find on the form? Thank you very much. If you decide not to go, your deposit will be refunded according to our refund policy. Your registration and the final payment must be completed two months prior to the expedition starting date. Thank you very much.

Click here to download the PDF Form for US Applicants

If you don't have a PDF reader please get it here

Here is a checklist of what we need to have in your file at least two months before the trip begins. We encourage you to send an electronic scan of all of the below documents, please be sure they are signed. Thank you:

[ ] Completed Payment. Please restate payments you made and what those payments were for, ie full vs basic, sherpas, etc.
[ ] Make your Sherpa order (if any) crystal clear at this time, personal sherpa, quarter sherpa, payment, etc.
[ ] Trip Registration Form (part of 4 page form),
[ ] Signed Participant Release and Acknowledgement of Risk (part of 4 page form),
[ ] Signed Terms and Conditions of Booking (part of 4 page form),
[ ] Signed Medical Form (part of 4 page form),
[ ] 1 Passport sized photo, which is a simple, very clear picture of your face, sent as an email scan. (We simply require a picture of your face against a white background. You can take it yourself for free with your own digital camera or smart phone),
[ ] Exact photocopy of passport identification pages,
[ ] Exact photocopy of complete flight itinerary,
[ ] Proof of mountain rescue and repatriation insurance,
[ ] Proof of travel, accident, and repatriation insurance (cancellation and trip interruption insurance is advised).

Please do let us know what further questions you may have about the registration process, or anything else for that matter. Thank you.

Welcome to our team.

What our clients say?

  • Here is what summiter Kurt has to say:

    "I personally felt the trip was very well organized and executed. I was very impressed that you cared enough about the anchors and ropes to fix them properly. Most other expeditions seemed to not care and were willing to use whatever was currently in place."

  • Here is what Stein from Norway had to say about our October 2007 expedition:

    "Regarding the expedition I have only praise for you!! The new web site is very good and feedback from family and friends says that they were able to follow the expedition very closely!! BZ! I have no hesitations in recommending this trip to anyone. All in all I am very satisfied with the trip!!"

  • Here is what Wanda, Ama Dablam summitter who has been on climbs with other companies has to say:

    "What I liked best about this expedition was the focus of independence that was placed on each person. I have been on other "guided" climbs and I never felt like I was gaining much in the ability to become a self-sufficient climber. On this trip, I felt good about the knowledge and confidence that was gained, knowing that I had to take care of myself as well as look out for those on my team. I especially liked they way everyone climbed at the rate that best suited their own fitness level. I never once had the feeling that I was waiting for someone to catch-up or that I was holding up the team.

    There are a couple of things that I feel individuals can do to make this trip an enjoyable experience.

    1. Train! I have always found that the more fit I am, the more I enjoy any expedition. Also, research the route and come prepared with the knowledge of what to expect.

    2. Come with a relaxed, open mind. The team dynamics on my Ama Dablam trip were great because there were no stringent agendas (personal, or otherwise) I have found that it is the less uptight people that generally have the best experience and now that I think of it, the reason the Ama Dablam trip was free of this aspect was probably because of the personalities of the leaders. They are serious about why they are there, yet it is approached with a "no worries" attitude. I LOVED THAT! And it obviously worked, because every member of our team summitted.

    Because we had many Sherpa on our team and we interacted a lot during the climb, I felt this was a cultural experience as well. Many spoke a little English so we were able to converse, ask questions about their lifestyle and customs. They were an integral part of our expedition, hard working and very experienced. I was glad to have had this interaction as it gave that much more feeling to an “international” endeavor.

    My concern about any problems in Nepal I heard about before the trip were non-existent in the areas we traveled. We did not witness any such disturbance. Traveling as a single female, I am probably a little more cautious than most but I have to say that never once did I feel concerned about my safety.

    Looking back, if there was one thing that I would suggest to make this trip better it would be more yak cheese pizza at basecamp! Yum, this stuff was delicious.

    Overall, this company gets top marks for their operation and that is why I will definitely climb with them again in the future."

  • Here is what Bjorn from Norway had to say about our October 2007 expedition:

    Thank you for a fantastic trip! I'm safely back home, already back at work!

    Regarding your expedition, all I have is praise! Things very generally well organized, however provided enough slack to allow a lot of personal preferences. Everyone in the staff were good people, the climbing sherpa's were strong and the kitchen staff made great food and took good care of us.

    Impressive staff, and I would like to mention the climbing sidar, Kagi, as a person who made lasting good impressions.

    I also felt that the schedule of the trip regarding the trek in, acclimatization and duration was good, and well thought out.

    Thank you for a great adventure, a spectacular summit, nice people and staff and fantastic weather."

  • Here is what Joanne from Birmingham, England had to say about our October 2007 expedition:

    "First and foremost I have to thank you for warming my toes in camp 3 and suggesting swapping my layers around - I'm sure I couldn't have gone a step further if you hadn't helped with the defrosting exercise!!

    I really enjoyed the trip and the whole group were great fun to be with. Considering how large the group was, and a number of concerns about this were raised amongst the group, the ascent groups were pretty well organised.

    The meals were pretty darned good considering logistics, supplies and camp locations. The lighting was excellent in the mess tent. The cooks were great and so polite and hard-working in all camps.

    I was really impressed with the sherpas - Lakpa and Tenzing were great!

    Great to have a shower tent and a ladies pee tent (these were about the only places where there were no peeing men in view!!)

    Looking for the next mountain to climb!"

  • Here is what summitter Eric Elliot had to say about our October 2007 expedition:

    "Strictly speaking, this was an "unguided" expedition. However, there was always some "guidance" prior to and during this fantastic expedition. Before my trip, SummitClimb answered many questions that I had by email, clearly and in a timely fashion. What's more, during the expedition, the leader and his excellent Staff, assistant leaders, and extremely competent Sherpas were always available to explain technique and offer assistance to ensure the best possible chance of success.

    This does not imply that minor improvements can never be thought of for a very comprehensive, well-coordinated and well-established expedition with optimal flexibility, but everything detailed on the excellent website was accomplished and so nothing more could be expected. Thank you so much! - for your thoughtfulness right from the start, and for sharing your extensive experience with the entire group throughout."