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Everest News - From Everest Nepal Camp 3 Training Climb, and Everest Basecamp Trek Expedition News, Spring

  • Everest Nepal News 2016 The Famous Hillary Step. Climbing climbing toward to summit. Photo Sange
  • Everest Nepal News 2016 Our team members ascending the Lhotse face. Photo David
  • Everest Nepal News 2016 Members enjoying day at camp 1. Photo Squash
  • Everest Nepal News 2016 Member on the suspension bridge. Photo Mitch
  • Everest Nepal News 2016 Member at the Summit. Photo Scott

Everest News of our recent expedition: Everest Nepal Summit,  Mount Lhotse, Everest Training Climb, 7 April to 5 June

Congratulations team! 4 members of our team reached the main summit. 2 members of our team reached the south summit. Now we are accepting bookings for 2017 at www.EverestNepalClimb.com . Welcome to the team! 

 
Blog posts: Please click one of the links below to go directly to that blog post or just scroll down.

 
Basia at the top of the world. Photo by Sange Sherpa. James at the summit of Everest. Photo by Jangbu Sherpa

 
 You can see where we begin our climb on the right.Mike Fairman photo Reaching Camp 3.  Photo Klaus Johansson


 
10 minutes away from the top of the world Everest. Photo Mike Fairman. Climber decending to southcol after summit. Photo Mike Fairman
 
 
Climber crossing famous khumbu icefall. Photo Mike Fairman. Leslie Binns relaxing at camp 1. Photo Leslie Binns. Climbers at the summit of Everest. Photo Mike Fairman
 
  
 
Mount Lhotse photo taken from camp 3. Photo Johns. Team at South Col after summit Mount Everest. Photo Basia.
1 June -
  • Update on ‪‎Sherpa‬ death tragedy on Mount Lhotse. They may have been tying new rope to 3 year old rope and placing no anchors = BAD
  • SummitClimb member receiving praise: rescuing climber on ‪#‎Everest‬. Please google: "Les Binns Everest Rescue". we r so proud of you!
  • Everest‬ SummitClimb member Les Binns saved climber's life on summit day. George Kashouh and Gary Ervin helped too. Good work team!
  • Now SummitClimb team at ‪‎Lukla‬, "World's Most Dangerous Airport". weather seems to be holding, hope we will fly to kathmandu today.

30 May - Pangboche town, ‪‎Everest‬ Exped storeroom. Yak + Sherpa babies, Rhododendrons and towering Mount Ama Dablam. You joining in October?

29 May - Early sunrise ‪‎Everest‬ bc: yak bells jingle, Sherpas load huge bags. From top of camp an enourmous chearing: Everest Marathon !!

26 May

  • Sherpa‬ Rescue Team are camping with us in C2 tonight. These are teams of 6 Sherpas who patrol ‪‎Everest‬ at the end of the season
  • A section of the icefall collapsed today, blocking up and down traffic. We need those ice fall doctors to fix it so we may descend
  • SummitClimb ‪Lhotse‬ team retreats to camp 2 after yet another blizzard blasts & buries ropes. It feels avalanche, unsafe. We quit.
 
Beautiful day in camp 1. Photo Klaus Johansson. Camp 1. Photo Klaus Johansson

24 May - SummitClimb Mount ‪‎Lhotse‬ team update: High winds have the team pinned down in camp 3. Hoping for calmer weather so they can go up

May 23 -

  • All of team 2 have now downclimbed from ‪‎Everest‬ Summit to safe and warm Camp 2, where we have a skillful cook. We are so thankful.
  • All SummitClimb ‪Everest‬ South Col members now descending ‪‎Lhotse‬ Face down to camp 2. Hopefully they make it before today's storm.
 
Climber crossing icefall to reach camp 1. Photo Klaus Johansson. Reach the South Col. Approaching the yellow band.  Mike Fairman Photo

May 22 -

  • Congratulations to SummitClimb Team 2 on reaching the summit of ‪Everest‬ and returning to the ‪SouthCol‬ safely. Bad weather. B Safe
  • SummitClimb team 2 now ‪‎Everest‬ summit in snow blizzard. Exhausting 13.5 hour ascent. Now facing difficult descent. Pray for them.

21 May

  • SummitClimb ‪Lhotse‬ team is now advancing on target: world's 4th highest ‪mountain‬. Today camp 3, tomorrow camp 4, then try ‪‎summit‬.
  • Member from another team passed away in tent on South Col last night. Deepest condolences to their family and expedition team. Sad
  • We're camped ‪‎Everest‬ South Col awaiting tonight's 7pm ‪‎summit‬ attempt. Camp has appx 50 tents. Gps locator says we are in China!
  • Beautiful weather in south col today! Taking a rest day, sipping on oxygen and drinking tea. Summit push tonight! -George Kashouh
  • Team 1 has descended to camp 2. team 2 is in camp 4 preparing to go for summit. Please wish us luck.

 

Climbers using fixed rope for climbing up to camp 2. Photo Gary Ervin. Leslie Binns going down to camp 1. Photo Gary Ervin

19 May -

  • SummitClimb Team 1 resting South Col after ‪Everest‬ summit. Team 2 has now climbed to C3 and will try Everest summit day after tom
  • Now trying to identify which group climber was with. Not summitclimb but oh my God, how terrible Deceased body has tragically appeared at base of #Lhotse face. Not from SummitClimb. Sherpas saw climber falling unroped 30 min ago.
  • Radio call just now received: 100 percent of SummitClimb Everest Team 1 are now on top of Everest. Sunny day. Congratulations!
  • SummitClimb Lhotse: weather is good but the ropes are not yet fixed, so team is standing by in camp 2, where it is safe and warm

The cliffs of the yellow band straight up ahead! Tents at camp 3.Mike Fairman photo Icefall start, rope being use. Photo Klaus Johansson

18 May - SummitClimb team 1: no summit last night (too windy). Try tonight. Team 2 holding at C2: Precaution due to lack of tents South Col.

17 May - Everest‬ C4 ‪‎SouthCol‬ destroyed: wind. Most tents broken. Groups flee. Our team 1 survive bad nite in torn tents. Try summit tonight.

16 May - SummitClimb team B is now in camp 2 after a challenging ascent from base camp. Team A is on the South Col waiting. Too windy there.

Basia Gorska at camp 3. Photo by Sange Sherpa. Climbers about to reach south col. Photo Gary Ervin

  

Sherpa and Gary before going for summit. Photo Gary Ervin. Summit Ridge seen from south col. Photo Gary Ervin

  

Crossing khumbu icefall. Photo Gary Ervin. Gary and Sherpa at South Col. Photo Gary Ervin

15 May - SummitClimb team 2 now packing for tonight's climb up through the Khumbu Icefall and attempt on Everest. Please wish us luck.

14 May - Good discussion today with EverestER about how to help Sherpas and climbers be more prepared for high altitude emergency

13 May - 14 foreign climbers and 13 sherpas reached the summit of ‪‎Everest‬ today. Congratulations!

12 May -

  • We are awaiting news of ‪Kenton‬ Cool reaching the summit. The Himalayas most famous climber. Go Kenton ‪Cool‬.
  • A large section of the Khumbu Icefall just collapsed. No injuries reported yet. Teams are stuck. Now searching more ladders, rope.
  • 9 Sherpas Summit ‪Everest‬ At 17:30 !!

11 May - SummitClimb ‪Everest‬ team 1 sets off for the top of our world's highest peak tonight at 2am. Please wish them the very best of luck!

10 May - Welcome tn Everest Basecamp Trekker's Rock. Upon this spot 1000's of dreams come true! (bad weather, we are hiking around camp)

Basecamp panaroma at trekkers rock. Mike Fairman Photo 

Basecamp panaroma at trekkers rock. Mike Fairman Photo

Mike, Paula, and Dan at the trekkers rock in basecamp. Photo by unknown trekker Paula at the trekkers rock in basecamp. Mike Fairman Photo

Mike, Paula, and Dan at the trekkers rock in basecamp. Photo by unknown trekker. Paula at the trekkers rock in basecamp. Mike Fairman Photo

 

Gary Ervin prepares to eat a massive slice of chocolate cake during expedition rest days. Jonas Lohaus Photo.  Jonas in Camp 3 at 7100 metres. Photo by George Kashouh

George, Klaus, and Doctor Tanya at Everest ER. Jonas Lohaus Photo. Guess whose tent this is. Photo by S Claus.

Eco Lodge in Lobuche. A place to rest and recover during expedition rest days. Jonas Lohaus Photo. Rest day food during the expedition. Bacon cheeseburger at Danfe Cafe in Namche. Jonas Lohaus Photo

 Strange ice formations and toilet tents in basecamp. Mike Fairman Photo. Trekking dog during expedition rest days. Jonas Lohaus Photo

9 May -

  • Heavy snow in #Everest basecamp now with a hailstorm and 2cm accumulated on the ground in front of my tent with snow still falling
  • Jangbu Sherpa radio call from Yellow Band: 6 SummitClimb Sherpas trying to reach South Col - oxygen delivery. Bad weather: Go Back!
  • High winds begin 5am this morning. By 8:30 am ‪#‎Everest‬ summit and upper mountain is obscured by cloud. SummitClimb team assessing.
8 May - Sunny in basecamp. High winds and snow aloft. Sange Sherpa had been feeling poorly but he's better now & gone up to carry oxygen

7 May - Today dawned foggy and the clouds moved up to cover the high reaches. The sun popped out later in the day to reveal new snow.

6 May - Heavy snow in ‪Everest‬ Basecamp at the moment. Our Sherpas are working high up on the mountain, carrying oxygen, ropes, tents, food

Ascending team overtakes descending team on Lhotse Face. Franz Ruehrlinger Photo Camp 1 with Mount Lhotse in background. Mike Fairman Photo Climbers on the Lhotse Face. Mike Fairman Photo
 
Ascending team overtakes descending team on Lhotse Face. Franz Ruehrlinger Photo.  Camp 1 with Mount Lhotse in background. Mike Fairman Photo. Climbers on the Lhotse Face. Mike Fairman Photo
 
Dan and Magnus in Camp 2. Mike Fairman Photo Everest Summit seen from the Western Cwm on a windy day. Mike Fairman Photo Les Binns from Yorkshire abseiling the face into the Khumbu Icefall, team members below. Mike Fairman Photo
 
Dan and Magnus in Camp 2. Mike Fairman Photo.  Everest Summit seen from the Western Cwm on a windy day. Mike Fairman Photo. Les Binns from Yorkshire abseiling the face into the Khumbu Icefall, team members below. Mike Fairman Photo

5 May - Rest days: Hot showers, big meals, comfortable basecamp. Many members trek through low villages with thick air and fried chicken.

3 May - Basecamp rest and relax. Hot showers. Clean laundry. Delicious home cooked meals. Movies, email. International phone calls home.

2 May -

  • We have returned to basecamp with one delicious meal after another and loads of hot drinks. Cat and Klaus trekked out. We miss you!
  • We perch on iceledge. Centre Khumbu Icefall. Crackling blue ice towers surround. Downclimbed 5 ladders to here. GO! Not safe place
  • 5am in camp 2. we are packing and preparing for long trip down to basecamp through the icefall. Heard a lot of rumbling down there

In Camp 3 looking toward Nuptse. Franz Ruehrlinger Photo Camp 2 in a snow storm. Franz Ruehrlinger Photo

 In Camp 3 looking toward Nuptse. Franz Ruehrlinger Photo. Camp 2 in a snow storm. Franz Ruehrlinger Photo.
 
Les Binns from Yorkshire abseiling the face into the Khumbu Icefall, team members below. Mike Fairman Photo Looking from camp 3 up the Geneva Spur to South Col. Franz Ruehrlinger Photo
 
Les Binns from Yorkshire abseiling the face into the Khumbu Icefall, team members below. Mike Fairman Photo. Looking from camp 3 up the Geneva Spur to South Col. Franz Ruehrlinger Photo

1 May -

  • Escape camp 3 down icy, windy, snowy Lhotse Face. Back in C2 safely. Team helped each other. Next: early am icefall descent to BC
  • Wake up Everest C 3. Its 5:30am. Winds + snowfall = poor visibility, means descent to basecamp required. Hope to avoid avalanches

30 April -

  • In Camp 3 at 7100m / 23,000ft. Climbed a lot of blue ice to get here. its a clear evening. tomorrow good weather go yellow band
  • Its early here in camp 2. Winds are light, skies are blue and we are packing for the trip to camp 3. Lhotse face looks blue and icy
SummitClimb Team Photo in Everest camp 1. Mount Pumori in background. Mike Fairman Photo
 
SummitClimb Team Photo in Everest camp 1. Mount Pumori in background. Mike Fairman Photo

29 April - Lhotse face reopens! Ropes moved to new position. SummitClimb team walk to base of face. Sherpas setup C3. Tomorrow we ascend!

28 April -

  • Update on Lhotse Face Shutdown: Sherpas descend to icefall, retrieve ladders, carry up to bridge new crevasse at base of face. Hope
  • Big News: an ice collapse has closed the Lhotse Face. All teams retreat to C2. Now studying safe options: ladders vs long detours?

27 April - Team rests in Camp 2. Basia, George, Martin arrive. All together again. Sherpas climbed Lhotse Face to C3. Blue ice due to drought

Mount Pumori and Western Cwm seen from camp 3 with rope fixing going on in foreground. Franz Ruehrlinger Photo Team descending toward the camera. Franz Ruehrlinger Photo

Mount Pumori and Western Cwm seen from camp 3 with rope fixing going on in foreground. Franz Ruehrlinger Photo. Team descending toward the camera. Franz Ruehrlinger Photo
 
Mike Fairman crosses a ladder in the Khumbu Icefall. Paula cimbs a five section ladder in the Khumbu icefall while Lhakpa, Cat, James, and Karma wait patiently. Mike Fairman Photo
 
Mike Fairman crosses a ladder in the Khumbu Icefall.  Paula cimbs a five section ladder in the Khumbu icefall while Lhakpa, Cat, James, and Karma wait patiently. Mike Fairman Photo

26 April - 

  • Team arrives C2 at 6473m / 21,040ft . Crossed W Cwm, now known as Western Barbecue. Roger and Steve choppered out. Miss you guys
  • Now packing in camp 1 for ascent to camp 2. Winds lighter last night. We were able to rest. It seems a weather window opens for us.
25 April - Members now reunited in camp 1 at 6100m / 20,000ft. The icefall has been repaired after serac collapse. EverestER docs healed team.

24 April -
 
  • Today 1 year anniversary. 25 April earthquake Nepal - Tibet. 9000 lost. Our team now in Camp 1 on Everest. We miss you Tom Taplin.
  • High winds here. Team rests C1. Lots of hot drinks, soup. Marty, Steve up from BC. Basia and George up tomorrow. Sherpas setup C2.
Sange Sherpa descending into the icefall. Franz Ruehrlinger Photo Team climbing up the Khumbu iceall. Mount Lobuche in background. Franz Ruehrlinger Photo
 
Sange Sherpa descending into the icefall. Franz Ruehrlinger Photo.  Team climbing up the Khumbu iceall. Mount Lobuche in background. Franz Ruehrlinger Photo
 
Helicopter taking off in basecamp. Mike Fairman Photo Dan speaking on satphone in camp 2 kitchen. Franz Ruehrlinger Photo
 
 Helicopter taking off in basecamp. Mike Fairman Photo.Dan speaking on satphone in camp 2 kitchen. Franz Ruehrlinger Photo
23 April -
 
  • Team climbs up Khumbu Icefall. The route is longer due to drought = many crevasses. Now we are comfortable in Camp 1 @ 6100 metres.
  • We packed all of our mountain clothing and equipment. Preparing to head up to camp 1 at midnight. wish us luck and light winds!

22 April - Expedition blessing ceremony led by high priest from pangboche. Sherpas danced and sang and led toasts to Everest. Team enjoyed it!

21 April - Sangay, Steve, Martin, Dan, Basia ice climb, cross ladders in camp. Team treks to 5800m / 19,100ft.

 
 
 Franz clips a top anchor during ice training.Paula practices on a ladder, while Lakpa Nuru holds the ropes and Jonas looks on. Mike Fairman photo. Team poses in front of infamous glacier during ice training. Mike Fairman photo
 
 
 
Nuptse in the background. Photo Mike Fairman. Team practices fixed rope climbing near basecamp on a sunny day. Mike Fairman photo.
Walking back to basecamp after ice training. Mike Fairman photo
 
 
Night time in basecamp. Mike Fairman photo. Our basecamp. Photo Mike Fairman. Perfect ice training ground near basecamp. Mike Fairman Photo. 
 
 
Trekking the final steps into Everest Base Camp. Mike Fairman photo.  Yaks on ice in basecamp. Mike Fairman photo. A big storm hits basecamp. Mike Fairman photo.

20 April - High wind strikes Everest BC. Some tents broken. SummitClimb team mobilizes. Secure camp, extra ropes. Forecast = more extreme wind.

19 April - Ice climbing training on towers near Everest BC today. Sunny not too hot. Axes, helmets, ropes, harnesses, screws, jumars, 8s!

 
Everest, Khumbu Icefall, basecamp, and glacier lake. Photo Mike Fairman. Moon over Everest and Khumbu glacier. Mike Fairman photo
Paula on the Namche Bridge. Mike Fairman Photo

18 April -

  • Everest‬ BC gold sunrise. 15 min walk: visit ‪Icefall‬ Doctors, ‪EverestER‬ hospital. Check climbing gear. Tasty dinner. Watch movies.
  • Tony helicopters out of Everest base in morning. Family emergency. Our office put him on flight home in afternoon. We miss you Tony

 
 
 Helicopter comes in to pick up Tony. We miss you. Photo Mike Fairman.  Preparing for ice training near basecamp. Photo by Mike Fairman.

16 April - Trek from Lobuche to Gorak Shep, the last teastop. Together we trekked into #Everest basecamp, to a warm welcome at 5300m / 17500 ft

15 April - Clear morn. Snow dust over trail. Trek through Dughla memorial honor Everest‬'s fallen. Tonight Lobuche 4950m / 16,200ft

 
 
Team atop Dingboche Ri. Photo Mike Fairman. Raging river flows over rocks, from the Deboche bridge. Photo by George Kashouh and www.TraveltheWholeWorld.com

14 April - Trekked Dingboche hill 5000m / 16400ft. Stunning views Makalu. Snowy afternoon. Potato pancakes, hot showers, friends

 
 Carved prayer rock on the trail to Everest. Photo by George Kashouh and www.TraveltheWholeWorld.com. George enjoys view of Khumbu Valley from Dingboche Ri. Mike Fairman photo.
 
 
 
Dragon at Tyengboche Monastery. Photo by George Kashouh and www.TraveltheWholeWorld.com. Lama Geshe blesses Yangjie Sherpa. Mike Fairman Photo

13 April - Team blessed by Pangboche high priest. Sipping tea beneath Ama Dablam. Trekking to Dingboche village @ 4400m night snow

12 April - Walk upper Khumbu Valley. Stunning views Thamserku, Kangtega, ‪‎Everest‬. Lovely lodge at Pangboche. Small quake last night!

   
 
Lama Gyeshe of Pangboche blesses our expedition. Photo by George Kashouh and www.TraveltheWholeWorld.com.  Les walks past our favourite hotel in Namche - Sherwi Kangba, beneath Kwangde Ri. Mike Fairman photo
 
 
 
Les and Magnus trek in Lobuche. Mike Fairman Photo. Mike Fairman with Summit for Soldiers on Dingboche Ri. Lakpa Nuru photo .Tyangboche gate. Photo Mike Fairman.
 
 
 
 Scott Fischer's memorial on Dughla Hill. Photo Mike Fairman. Team spinning prayer wheels at Pangboche. Mike Fairman Photo.  Trekkers resting in Dughla. Cholatse in background. Mike Fairman photo
 

 
Paula enters Tyangboche Monastery. Mike Fairman Photo Yaks on the trail to Dingboche. Photo by George Kashouh and www.TraveltheWholeWorld.com

11 April - Rest acclimatize Namche. delicious late breakfast. walk ‪Everest‬ view hotel. chocolate cake, pizza, billiards, showers

George checks out Namche Bazaar on our arrival. James Grieve Photo
 
George checks out Namche Bazaar on our arrival. James Grieve Photo. Mike, Jonas, Roger, and Klaus on an acclimatization walk around Namche. Paula Leonard Photo. Goats on the trail to Everest Base Camp. Mike Fairman Photo 
 
10 April - Entry Everest National Park. Walked up big hill to Namche Bazaar. Sherwi Kangba Hotel very comfortable. Museum, gallery.
 
 
Porter on the Namche hill with a large load of mattresses. Photo Mike Fairman. Paula Leonard and Lakpa Nuru Sherpa. Photo by Kaji/ Paula Leonard and Dan Mazur posing in Phakding Village on the Everest Base Camp Trek. Kaji Tamang Photo

9 April - Early morning flight to "World's Most Dangerous Airport". We lived, and our bags arrived too! ‪‎Trekked‬ 200m down to Phakding

Rhodhodhendrons hanging cliff face on the trail to Namche Bazaar. photo James Grieve Photograph of an unusual coloured Mani on the trail photograph by James Grieve

Rhodhodhendrons hanging cliff face on the trail to Namche Bazaar. photo James Grieve.  Photograph of an unusual coloured Mani on the trail photograph by James Grieve

George Kashouh resting by some glacier water on our trek to Namche Bazaar. photograph by James Grieve Barley fields on the trail to Everest BaseCamp. Photo by James Grieve

George Kashouh resting by some glacier water on our trek to Namche Bazaar. photograph by James Grieve.  Barley fields on the trail to Everest BaseCamp. Photo by James Grieve

Tony, Les, Jonas, and James on the streets of Lukla. Gary Ervin Photo Yaks on the bridge in front of Roger and Gary on the trek. photograph by James Grieve Mingma sherpa leading the climb members on the way to Namche Bazaar. photograph by James Grieve

Tony, Les, Jonas, and James on the streets of Lukla. Gary Ervin Photo.  Yaks on the bridge in front of Roger and Gary on the trek. photograph by James Grieve. Mingma sherpa leading the climb members on the way to Namche Bazaar. photograph by James Grieve.

James Grieve and Lakpa Sherpa On the flight from Kathmandu to Lukla - photo by James Getting ready for the second days trek to Base camp leaving from the green village lodge. photograph by James Grieve

James Grieve and Lakpa Sherpa On the flight from Kathmandu to Lukla - photo by James.  Getting ready for the second days trek to Base camp leaving from the green village lodge. photograph by James Grieve

 
Les Binns from Yorkshire arrives at Lukla, the world's most dangerous airport. Lukla - 'World's Most Dangerous Airport' - Runway goes straight into a rock wall. Gary Ervin photo 

8 April - Group meeting Everest Tibet, ‪‎Everest‬ ‪Nepal‬, ‪Mount‬ Lhotse. Final packing and making medical kits. Tomorrow fly to Lukla

7 April - Members arrive. We are checking their gear and visiting Kathmandu's 100 mountain climbing shops: Shona's, Everest Hardwear

Team Roster:

Everest Nepal - 
 
  • Daniel Mazur (Leader) , UK/USA       
  • Leslie Binns, UK
  • Gary Ervin, USA
  • George Kashouh, USA
  • Ms. Paula Leonard, USA
  • James Grieve, UK       
  • Ms. Basia Gorska, USA   
  • Cameron Fairman (mike), USA
  • Martin Krajc, USA
Lhotse -
 
  • Jonas Lohaus, Belgium
  • Roger Wright       
  • Franz Rührlinger, German
7 April Training Climb - 

  • Magnus Felke, USA
  • Klaus Johansson, Denmark
  • Anthony Sanchez, USA
  • Steve Dunn, USA       
  • Catalin Isfan, USA /Romania

Sherpas And Staff - 

  • Ms.Yanji Sherpa
  • Jangbu Sherpa
  • Lakpa Nuru Sherpa
  • Sange Sherpa
  • Tendu Sherpa
  • Mingmar Sherpa
  • Pema Gyalu Sherpa
  • Karma Gyalje Sherpa
Basecamp Staff:

  • Nir Kaji Tamang
  • Jaya Bahadhur Nagarkoti
  • Dawa Sange Sherpa Back to top
Les Binns BBC rescue story

1 member of our team rescued climbers from other groups.


Photo Leslie Binns
 
Leslie Binns article by Mario Cacciottolo & Natasa Simovic BBC News - - A British ex-serviceman abandoned his Mount Everest climb some 500m from the summit to save a fellow mountaineer.

Leslie Binns, 42, from Rotherham, South Yorkshire, turned around to save Sunita Hazra, an Indian woman, who was scaling the summit ahead of him.

He said he felt "immensely proud" to have saved a life but wished he could have also helped save another climber, who died on the descent.

Mr Binns was blinded in his left eye after an explosion in Afghanistan.

He was in the Army for 13 years, serving in Bosnia, Iraq and Afghanistan and was blown up four times. He has been awarded two medals, including the Queen's Commendation for Bravery for finding improvised explosive devices in Afghanistan in 2009.

Ms Hazra, who is 32 and lives near Kolkata in India, left hospital on Wednesday.

Her brother Kingshuk Chatterjee told the BBC the family "cannot express our gratitude" to Mr Binns for saving her.
"He's the reason why she is still alive now," he said. "He is a very brave man."

Mr Binns, who now works in private security in oil fields in Iraq, said the incident happened when he was on a climb in the early hours of 21 May.

He was approaching an area nicknamed "The Balcony" - where climbing teams store spare oxygen bottles - when he noticed a "commotion" ahead of him.

"I noticed someone sliding down the fixed climbing lines towards me.

"All I could hear were the screams of terror as the person gained momentum. I braced myself to try and stop whoever it was, and managed to do so.

"At this time I didn't know that this was Sunita Hazra. I helped her upright and looked at her oxygen regulator. It was registering empty."

Mr Binns helped Ms Hazra recover and she attempted to continue her descent by herself, but collapsed after about 20 metres.

"It was at this point I decided to cancel my summit bid to help Sunita," Mr Binns said. He was about another 12 hours away from making the final ascent to the top.

"I climbed down to her and called my Sherpa. I told him we are not going up and we would give Sunita my spare oxygen bottle and take her down."

He says the descent was a perilous and difficult one, and on the way the three climbers found another man who was also struggling to descend, bringing him along with them.

Mr Binns said Ms Hazra and the other climber "kept collapsing", adding: "I fell into waist-deep crevasses no less than five times, which was very tiring, and we were also crossing blue ice which was very dangerous as we kept slipping."

Eventually he and Ms Hazra managed to reach his camp, but due to exhaustion and difficult weather conditions they were unable to bring the other climber along.
 
 
Photo Leslie Binns
 
"I gave Sunita my sleeping bag in my tent. We then tried our best to get her warm by patting and rubbing her. She was suffering from hypothermia and her right hand was badly frost-bitten.

"I then remembered we had a flask of ginger tea. I used this to try and re-warm Sunita's hand. I dried it off and told her to keep it in her fleece pocket which would keep it warm."

Mr Binns says that while in his tent he heard the other climber's voice in the distance "but I was too exhausted to go back out - I literally collapsed and fell asleep".

In the morning, Mr Binns learned the other climber had been found and taken to his team. Ms Hazra's Sherpa came to collect her and help her to continue down the mountain.

But when Mr Binns continued with his own descent that next day, he came across the body of the other climber, who had died during his journey downwards.

Mr Binns believes Sherpas took the body down from the mountain, and is unsure as to how the climber eventually died.

Mr Binns said: "I truly regret not being able to do anything more for him. But I had nothing left in me that night and I tried my level best to rescue him, but he could not be moved. No summit is worth a life.

"I am immensely proud that I helped Sunita. I just wish I could have done more."

Mr Binns, who has climbed "all the major peaks in the UK", is now in Kathmandu and due to return to the UK to see his fiancee and daughter on 6 June.

"I wish Sunita and her family all the best and hope she makes a full recovery," he said.