Now offering expeditions to Africa and Aconcagua

Camp 2 Ama Dablam 6000m

Welcome to Summitclimb.com’s exclusive Leader in Training Program!

Our program is designed to encourage climbers to enter the exclusive world of high altitude mountain guiding.

Previously this opportunity was considered generally ‘closed’ and restricted to a select few.

We, at Summitclimb provide the opportunity to open these closed doors through our Leader in Training Program.

Our program delivers quality Himalaya specific training. No other training program anywhere in the world offers this!

We hope that this training program will become a benchmark that companies offering trips in the Himalaya will demand of their guides.

Adam, Wanda, Derek, Dave & Paul after summiting Ama Dablam

Leadership Flow chart

The following flow chart outlines the sequence through the Leader in Training program.

Down Arrow Callout: Personal Experience
(see prerequisite chart below)

Down Arrow Callout: Level 1 – High alt worker
(any altitude, any peak)

Down Arrow Callout: Level 2 – Leader in Training
(Ama Dablam & Pumori only)

Down Arrow Callout: Level 3 – Assistant Leader I
(below 8000m, any peak)

Text Box: Level 4 – Assistant Leader II
(above 8000m, any peak)

Prerequisites

Personal Experience

Before entering any level of this Leader in Training program there are certain experience prerequisites that you must meet.

We have devised a point system to gauge your personal climbing and/or leadership experience and to determine which level would suit you best.

Minimum Points to Enter

Level 1 100 (no Leadership qualification needed)

Level 2 200 & Leadership qualifications

Level 3 400 & Leadership qualifications

Level 4 500 & Leadership qualifications

Point System Chart

Number of peaks climbed	Elevation	Points
1 - 5	Up to 5000m (technical alpine)	50
6+	Up to 5000m (technical alpine)	150
1	5000m - 8000m	100
2+	5000 – 8000m	300
1	8000⁺m	150
2+	8000⁺ m	350

Note: All peaks must be climbing (not trekking) peaks

Level Descriptions

Sherpa climbing team

Levi & Deno Pumori summit

Adam at Camp 3 Ama Dablam

Expedition Ama Dablam summit

LEVEL 1

High Altitude Worker

This position is designed for someone who simply likes to climb.

No Leadership duties will be delegated, but your job is very important.

You will climb ahead of the group and assist the Sherpa staff in:

§ Route finding and setting

§ Stocking camps with tents, food, etc

§ Maintaining condition of fixed lines

§ Packing up the camps and rubbish removal from the mountain

§ Assist with load preparation for transport

LEVEL 2

Leader in Training

This is our most popular level and people who attend the program at this level have sound climbing skills and formal Leadership Qualifications.

Your duties at this level will include:

§ Limited leadership under supervision

§ Airport pickups

§ Stocking medical kits

§ Writing expedition dispatches to everestnews.com

§ Assisting with expedition logistics

§ Checking member equipment

§ Assisting with training days in Basecamp

§ Basic first-aid duties (or to the level of your training)

Till on Mushroom Ridge, Ama Dablam Advanced Basecamp, Ama Dablam

LEVEL 3

Assistant Leader I

This level is designed for people who’ve completed Level 2 of the program and have a fundamental understanding of

how the expedition works.

In addition to your duties in Level 2, you will also be required to:

§ - Perform limited unsupervised leadership to members

§ - Assist with decision making

§ - Perform advanced first aid and emergency medical care (or to the level of your training)

§ - All below 8000m

§ -Assist with training LiT’s at Levels 1 & 2.

Climbing ice fall, Pumori Jay returns from summit Puja blessing ceremony

LEVEL 4

Assistant Leader II –

This level is the highest in the program. It denotes someone that has had extensive high altitude and leadership experience.

People at this level are professionals in their field and have the knowledge and ability to provide first-rate assistance to the Expedition Leader.

You will be required to:

§ Perform all duties in Levels 2 and 3, but above 8000m

Dear prospective Leaders-In-Training. Jay Reilly, our Training Director, has prepared the following prospectus for our training program:

Jay Reilly filling out permit forms at Nepalese government headquarters. (Kirsti Samson Photo) For more about Jay, please visit the Leadership page.

Jay Reilly is sponsored by MONT equipment. Please check them out:

“What is the Leader-in-Training Program, and how does it work?”

This program is designed to open the doors to the previously “exclusive” world of High Altitude Mountain Leadership.

We believe this is the only program of its kind in the world and it’s available to you!

The program has 3 parts.

Part 1 – is the Pre-Training Phase. During this phase, you will undergo a 3-day course designed to introduce you to Expedition Climbing, and, the requirements of being a Leader on such an expedition.

Topics include, but are not limited to –

· High Altitude Equipment, Clothing, and Supplies

· Working with local staff including Sherpas

· Climbing fixed lines

· Placing fixed lines

· High Altitude first aid and medicine

· Nepalese culture and important sites of Kathmandu

Medical and safety training and first aid practice is a very important part of your course, as team members and leaders are pictured here taking turns practicing using the "Gamow Bag" (Dan Mazur Photo) Our flight to Lukla, getting ready to take off. (Jay Reilly Photo)

Part 2 - is the Training Phase. During this, you will be placed into a role on an actual High Altitude Climbing Expedition. Your tasks will be varied and will change from day to day. A typical list of tasks a Leader-in-Training could be asked to perform over the course of an expedition –

Two of our Sherpas setting camp 2. You will be learning to work with Sherpas, a key part of Himalayan climbing. (Jay Reilly Photo) Pemba and Amy, working together, (Jay Ullin Photo)

· Purchase Expedition equipment and supplies

· Co-ordinate and train Sherpa Staff

· Assist expedition members with training and orientation in Kathmandu

· Be a tour guide in Kathmandu and assist members with “last minute” purchases

· Socialize with members in a responsible way

· Count, Chase, and Catch Yaks

· Keep track of expedition logistics, in Kathmandu, on trek, and during the climb

Ama Dablam basecamp at 4500 metres, where one of our training climbs takes place. (Jay Reilly Photo) Working together with the team members and Sherpas in team spirit to take on the daily tasks of life at high altitude will be part of your responsibility. (Dan Mazur Photo)

· Interact with the local environment and peoples responsibly. Get to know them.

· Treat sick or injured villagers during the trek

· Assist in member training on the mountain

· Fix rope on the mountain

· Assist ill or injured members

· Co-ordinate daily communications with climbers on the mountain

· Generate a group and social atmosphere

· Summit the peak with the expedition members

Getting to the summit and back down safely, where all of your hard work and safety training pay off. (Duane Morrison Photo)

Part 3 – is the Evaluation Phase, where we evaluate your performance and provide feedback on your performance and potential.

Prerequisites: - Understandably, not everyone can go straight to a high altitude environment and be expected to guide a group of climbers. We have to implement a few minimum levels of experience and skills.

These are –

· Ideally you will be a climber (rock, ice, or snow) and have a general knowledge of climbing techniques. Mountain climbing experience is not needed.

Have studied Outdoor Leadership or have proven leadership experience (not always necessarily in climbing – Rafting Guides, SCUBA or Ski Instructors, Military or general workplace, would be considered, for some expeditions).

Have experience in snow and winter conditions.

Have First Aid training.

During the course, if you aren't already a proficient rock climber, you may become one. You will become comfortable climbing snow and ice on top-quality ropes fixed from camp 1 all the way to the summit. Jay Ullin photos

Benefits: - Stated simply -

You receive the opportunity to climb with a very experienced team of leaders who have organized and lead safe and succesful expeditions for 15 years to over 25 Himalayan peaks, including Everest, K2, and 7 of the world's highest eight-thousand meter peaks, in addition to multiple expeditions to Pumori, Ama-Dablam, Mustagata, and many many others. Our leaders include Daniel Mazur, Jay Reilly, Felix Berg, Ryan Waters, Arnold Coster, and several others.

Daniel Mazur, one of our leaders, sending a dispatch to EverestNews.com . A large part of a leader's job is communications. (Jay Reilly Photo)

You get an insider's view and hands on experience into a highly “exclusive” industry.

You get to climb a Himalayan peak at an inexpensive price

You get to experience a real climbing expedition

You get access to special Pro-Deals on equipment through a variety of companies including

Site sponsors:

Outdoor Prolink. Professionally discounted prices on a wide variety of equipment for all of our Leaders in Training.

Mont. Professionally discounted prices on down/duvet kit for our Leaders in Training.

You may have an opportunity to be a guide on future expeditions.

Cost: - One of the direct benefits of being in the Leader-in-Training Program is that you pay less for being on an expedition. We certainly cannot expect you to come and work hard for us for “nothing”. However, you still need to pay your way to Kathmandu, and for your part on the climbing permit.

To offset this cost to you, we offer a 15% discount off the cost of the trip, plus we pay for your meals and accommodation at our hotel in Kathmandu.

Please ask us plenty of questions about this exciting new program. Many of our current Leaders started off their careers in a similar fashion with us.

Are you interested in becoming a leader-in-training? If so, please contact us at info@SummitClimb.com

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