Ama Dablam Expedition News Autumn

Ama Dablam and Lobuche Expedition News

What a summit on Ama Dablam! A big thanks to the entire team who worked hard behind the scenes. Video: Killian

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Blog posts: Scroll down for day by day news of our climbing and trekking teams.

20 Nov - Our team has “breakfast” at around 10pm and leaves the tents around midnight. We are led by the mighty Pema Sherpa, and we are Ramsay from Australia who is a full-service member, with Mariusz and Sebastian from Poland, who are “Base Camp Only” do-it-yourself members. We climb up through the Grey Tower, through the steep couloirs to the Mushroom Ridge, then into Camp 3, and then up to the Dablam and around her, then onto the final summit snow ridge. It sounds straight forward and easy right? But is it?

Here is what Ramsay, our Australian full-service member says - According to Ramsay: What is good about the climb: Camp 2 was very comfortable and I was able to rest there. I am not sure if you could call it “sleep”. Climbing around the Dablam was incredible. It is quite humbling to be so close to such a massive piece of ice that is just hanging there. After seeing it from far below in the valley, now I am climbing around it. Wow! There were no crowds and no traffic jam during our climb. It payed off to climb later in the season when there are fewer people and the weather is much better. After the climb, Gyelbu Sherpa came up from BC to C2 to help us carry everything from C2 back to BC. That was very needed and he did a great job. It is very good that you climb up to the summit in the dark, because going down from the summit to C2 is so scary and exposed. OMG! By the way, I want to mention that the actual wind on the 21st was much less than the wind which was forecasted. It was just a light breeze!

According to Ramsay: What is challenging about the climb: The summit ridge had these huge snow ledges where footsteps used to be. These were tough to navigate. Camp 3 was totally useless, it had been blasted apart by wind and there was only shredded nylon and a few broken poles. Good thing we did not plan to use camp 3. I awoke early in C2 on 21 November, wanting to descend back down to BC. I guess Pema was tired from the day before as he took a while to wake up as the tent warmed.

A special note from Ramsay: As we were one of the last teams to use C2 this season, I was surprised by the huge amount of equipment, clothing, boots, food, gas, cookers, ropes and so much expedition stuff which was left in C2. It seems like it will be tough to get it down from there before winter comes and ruins it all. And whose stuff is all of that anyway?

Here is what Mariusz, our Polish “Base Camp Only” do-it-yourself member says - According to Mariusz: What is good about the climb: We were so happy to reach the summit. On our last expedition, we were unable to reach the summit. But this time we did it. What a sense of achievement. Especially because we carried everything by ourselves. I want to mention that when you are coming back down from the summit, Camp 3 is very windy and cold, but just below Camp 3, at the place where the Mushroom Ridge begins, there is a protected flat spot where the sun shines on you and the wind is much less. This was a much needed spot to take a rest and eat and drink and recover. Ama Dablam summit day has very few of these rest points.

Photo: Ramsay, Sebastian

According to Mariusz: What is challenging about the climb: It is so windy in C3. And from C3 – Summit is very tough going, I had to take so many rest breaks.

Here is what Sebastian, our Polish “Base Camp Only” do-it-yourself member says - According to Sebastian: What is good about the climb: I loved the snow climbing from C3-Summit. This is my idea of perfect mountaineering, a rhythmic climb up through steep snow…like a machine. The view from the Summit is unbelievable. So many mountains in all directions. I have never seen anything like that.

According to Sebastian: What is challenging about the climb: Just as we were leaving C2 at around midnight, we began to climb up the Grey Tower. There was a person coming up behind me and they wanted to pass me. However, I didn’t feel comfortable just stepping to the side of the path, due to its narrowness, so this person was right on my butt for the whole grey tower until I found a good place to get out of the way so they could pass me. Going from C3 down to C2 I felt very exhausted and this part of the descent was quite challenging for me.

20 Nov - Breaking News from Ama Dablam : 9:55 am Ama Dablam News Update: Pema and Ramsay just summited. The wind is very light. Congratulations!! Breaking News: Mariusz and Seba summited about 30 minutes after Pema and Ramsay. All 3 members and Pema Sherpa took lots of photos and videos on the summit. Everyone is coming down to Mushroom Ridge now. The winds have reduced, and are very light today. The sun is shining and its quite a warm and perfect summit day. Congratulations to Everyone!!

Video : Mariusz

20 Nov - Breaking news: our three members and one Sherpa are just below the summit. They say it is tough going with winds but they think they will summit within two hours. We are praying for them. Go Team!

19 Nov - Today our Ama Dablam fullservice team went to C2 in warm sunshine. It was fantastic rock climbing. Our two basecamp only members also joined them. Now everyone is poised in c2 for a midnight departure for the summit. The weather forecast looks perfect. Warm sunshine during the day with very light winds. Please wish our team well!

Caption : Almost there. Summit of Ama Dablam, there you can see Everest. Photo : Killian.

Team at the summit of Ama Dablam. Video Dorji.

18 Nov - Our all women’s team did an amazing job! Ms Nat summited with Ang Dorje Sherpa at 11:25 AM and came back to the C2 at 630pm. Here is what Nat has to say:

What was Good about the climb: I felt a real sense of achievement at getting to the top. Ang Dorje Sherpa helped me a lot. Camp 2 was very good and comfortable. The food in C2 was excellent and our tents in C2 were very clean. We took shelter in a tent in C3 for a while and that was also very helpful.

What was challenging about the climb: I could not eat any food after dinner in C2. So I went a whole day without eating. It wasn’t good. The snow part of the climbing route had these big snow holes which were like snow ledges. That was challenging. The ropes were tight in some places and I could not put my abseil device on the rope, so I had to arm abseil. The winds were quite strong. The mushroom ridge was scary lie a knife edge ridge and I crawled across it. Camp 2 and Camp 3 had a lot of rubbish.

Julie made an incredible five hour descent from camp 2 to Base Camp. That included an hour break at ABC for lunch. Wow so fast, a new SummitClimb world record!!

Our Ama Dablam only team climbed up to C1, together with our Base Camp Only Team and Pema Sherpa. Wow so exciting. Our next summit push is in place and moving up. The weather forecast is perfect!

17 Nov - Our 5 summiters came down to basecamp. They are wasted from their high efforts and very glad to be back in the land of luxury which basecamp really is, hot showers, soft beds, delicious food, cold beer, hot cappuccino, fried chicken and chocolate cake. Welcome Back! Our all women’s team climbed into C2 and rested to prepare for summiting. Our Ama Dablam approach team is now going to try for the summit. They went to Camp 1 to sleep tonight. Everyone else is resting at Base Camp. Recharging their batteries for their chance o try climbing to the summit. Go Everyone!

Caption : Near Dablam. Camp 2. Photo : Killian.

Caption : On the way to summit. Photo : Killian.

Caption : Summit. Photo : Tenji

16 Nov - At 7:43 am our Ama Dablam team of men and women from 4 countries reached the summit. Conditions were a bit chilly (until the sun came up) with light winds. Our summiters are : Allison from Pennsylvania, Sebastien from Canada, Killian from Ireland, Tenji Sherpa, and Wangchu Sherpa. After summiting, they came back down to C2 and collapsed in the tent. Here are a few of their observations we would like to share:

Allison says: What was excellent about your summitclimb: Allison: being with the Sherpas, like family. Going around the Dablam on easy big ice steps was very fun and satisfying climbing.

What was challenging about your summitclimb: couldn’t sleep much in C2 which is very small.

Sebastien says: The best part of the climb is the amazing views. So many huge mountains all around. Fantastic!

We Congratulate all of our members and Sherpas in our first team on an amazing job well done. Thanks also to all of the family members, friends and colleagues who support our team. Thank you very much!

In other happenings during 16 November, our all women’s team walked from ABC up to C1 and slept there. Our two basic members, own their own, climbed from C1 up to C2 and then back to basecamp in the same day. Also, our two Ama Dablam only members, together with 2 Sherpas, climbed from C1 up to C2 and then back to basecamp in the same day. They were glad to be abck in basecamp, after such a long day out on the mountain.

16 Nov - Breaking News: Our first SummitClimb team has reached the summit of Ama Dablam! - It’s a beautiful sunny day with clear skies and very light winds. Stay tuned for more updates, photos, and videos

Caption : Safety measurement and Camp 3. Photo : Tenji.

Caption : Our team hiking to summit this morning. Few metres below the top. Photo : Dan.

15 Nov - This morning, our first summit team of men and women from around the world with 3 Sherpas climbed into camp 2 to spend the night (or at least part of it) before enjoying a late dinner/early breakfast and heading out to the summit around midnight or so. We are wishing them great luck! Our all women’s group walked to the Advanced Basecamp today in sunny warm weather with almost no wind. There are three women from three different countries with three highly skilled Sherpas. Their goal is the summit. Go Ladies!! Our two base-camp only members walked from BC up to C1 to spend the night and try their hand at climbing to C2. They are climbing with no Sherpas and using all of their own gear and food. Wow! Two of our Ama Dablam only members walked with two Sherpas up to C1, stopping for lunch in ABC. They will stay the night in C1 and then climb up to touch C2 before returning to basecamp for a nice rest before they go for the summit. Seems like a lot of SummitClimb teams all moving up at the same time? Why??? We have to tell you now the weather is quite amazing here. Warm and sunny with no clouds. And almost zero wind. And the forecast is really special: 5 days of the exact same perfect forecast. Lets all pray that it holds, so all 6 of our teams (yes we are now 6 different teams!) can reach the summit of Ama Dablam!!

Caption : Camp 1. Almost there at camp 1. Photo Dorji.

Camp 1. Photo : Daniel P.

Caption : Check out the view near camp 1. Photo : Daniel P.

14 Nov - A truly momentous day for our team! The weather is perfectly sunny with almost no wind while our Lobuche approach team of two climbs with the Sherpas from C1 –C2 along Ama Dablam’s spectacular rock ridge. The rock climbing was superb. Easy rock scrambling on very solid granite with the safety of carefully fixed and well anchored nylon climbing ropes. After fun easy sport rock, the team returned to Ama Dablam Base Camp. BIG NEWS: Our first summit team of three members: men and women, and 3 Sherpas ascends TODAY from BC –C1. Yes Folks they are on their way to the summit and the weather looks perfect, tiny winds, sunshine, no clouds, very warm daytime temperatures and the blessing of cool nights so everything can refreeze and prevent over melting, to keep the climbing route firm. Perfect conditions. Good luck team!!

Caption : Team members are heading toward ABC. C1. Photo : Daniel P

Camp 1. Photo : Daniel P.

Caption : Member with Ama Dablam in the background. Photo : Daniel P

Photo : Daniel P

Photo : Peter.

13 Nov - Last night was windy in ABC, making it challenging to sleep. This morning it took us a while to get going while the sun warmed the tents and our amazing ABC cooks brought us hot tea and food in our sleeping bags. Finally we 4 Ama Dablam Only members and 2 Sherpas got packed up for todays trek up to C1. We put on our warm gear and crampons and headed up through the boulder field, now covered in a half metre of snow, and up the “apron” to C1, also plastered in deep snow. The wind is definitely less in C1. Then the 6 of us headed back down to ABC for tea and then back down to BC. A long hard day of slippery snow trekking in the sun and wind. Crampons required. Looking forward to a much needed rest. 2 of our members who came to us via the Lobuche Peak approach waited in ABC with 1 Sherpa until we reported in from C1 that the wind was less, and then they headed up to C1 to camp for the night. Their goal is to touch C2 tomorrow and enjoy the rock climbing up there, and then return to Ama Dablam BC for a good rest before heading to the summit.

Dan Mazur and expert, helpful, friendly Sherpas. Photo wendy

Caption : Members going to C1 from ABC. Video : Sean.

Caption : Sherpa and members are at ABC. Photo : Sean.

Caption : Water break and hiking toward ABC. Photo : Sean.

Caption : A stream with fresh water at Ama Dablam. Sunrise seen from ABC Ama Dablam. Photo : Killian.

Caption : Himalayan Range from ABC. Photo : Killian.

Photo : Sean.

12 Nov - Today, our high altitude porters dropped the members duffle bags at Advanced Base Camp (ABC). 6 of our team members hiked up to ABC with three Sherpas. The conditions were warm with snow on the trail. Crampons came in handy on the upper part. Cresting the ridge to ABC, the wind really picked up, so it was nice to have a well made and securely anchored tent to dive into, with a hot cup of tea and big dinner prepared by our ABC kitchen, where two cooks with a kerosene stove, lots of extra food and freshly melted clean snow are permanently stationed, just for our team! Our expert advanced Sherpa route pioneering team climbed up to Camp 2 and shoveled and cleared three tent spaces in C2 and checked the available tent spots. It now seems that ours is the last group on Ama Dablam this season, so we will have no difficulty in finding spots for our entire team in C2. This reduction in route pressure coupled with an extremely favourable ten day weather forecast is setting up our five groups for success. However, best not to count our chickens before they hatch. Our goal now is to anchor our team’s focus on maintaining member and Sherpa health and keeping a positive outlook. As you know, climbing these Himalayan Giants is not only about physical prowess, but it is a mentally and emotionally challenging endeavor as well. We can’t have one without the other!

Caption : ABC. Photo : Sean, Tenji.

11 Nov - Today’s big event: 3 of our 8 Sherpas set off early with heavy rucksacks filled with shovels and picks and rope and tents to climb direct to Camp 1, where they will set up tents and sleep, in preparation for tomorrow’s very thorough good reconnaissance of the route to Camp 2 and of Camp 2 itself. At this time we would like to pay tribute to our Sherpas, who are opening the route for our team, blazing the trail to the summit, checking ropes, setting up tents, carrying food and fuel, and getting everything ready. You Sherpas are amazing and we could not do it without you!!! Today the rest of us mere mortals prepared our 10-20 kilo duffle bags to be carried to Advanced Base Camp (ABC) by our high altitude porters. The path, which in most years is dry, grassy, and gravelly, is snowy and slippery this year so these strong porters have good shoes and clothing for the 8 hour round trip journey. Our two basic members are self carrying all of their own kit up to ABC. “Basic” in this case, means they are only joining us in basecamp, to sleep in our cushy tents and eat unlimited delicious BC food, but they are doing their own trek in/out and high altitude climb above BC. All of us are excited to be “getting-going” on this climb finally. The weather forecast indicates that in 5 days the winds will be very low, so we are looking forward to a sunny calm and warm summit for all 5 of our groups!!

Caption : Team members enjoying at Camp 1. Photo : Allison. Team members are getting ready to climb. Photo : Dorje.

Caption :Team enjoying high camps. Photo : Mariusz.

Caption: The fixed rope technique at Ama Dablam. Photo : Killian.

Caption : Strong Sherpas team going to setup camps and checking ropes. Porters carrying members gear from bc to abc. Photo : Dan.

10 Nov - Today is our fixed rope training day in Ama Dablam Base Camp. It is a sunny bright day and all of the mountains are glistening painted white against a blue sky canvas. We are checking all of gear, harnesses, ascenders, slings, 8s, carabiners, helmets, abseling/rappelling gloves, everything. Now we are walking across the big grassy meadow where is basecamp, weaving our way through tents. Now we are hiking up through a steepening boulder field which turns into sand and juniper bushes. Now we are under a set of cliffs where our sherpas have fixed up and down ropes into a fixed rope training course. We rechecked all of our gear and then clipped the ropes to practice ascending, passing anchors, knots, jumaring steep bits, traversing rocky slabs. We reach the top and now it’s time to go down. So we can practice our across the chest arm abseil/rapel and then clipping anchors. Finally we do a safe descent down a vertical cliff so we can feel the air in controlled and cautious manner. And then, guess what, it’s time to do it again. All of us make two rounds of our ropes course and some us do three or four. Now we are done and we remove our ropes and head back down to camp for a big lunch, a nap and the next step: packing our bags in preparation to head up the mountain. Exciting!

Caption : Rock Climbing training. Photo : Dorje.

Caption : Members being ready for training. Being prepare for training and organizing. Photo : Dorje.

Caption : Members having rock climbing before climb. Ama Dablam Team Members. Photo : Tenji.

Caption : SummitClimb rope training session. Video : Tenji.

Caption : Sherpas set up tents for sleep. Photo : Sean.

9 Nov - Today in Ama Dablam Base Camp we had the prayer blessing ceremony for our Ama Dablam Expedition. It was a very colorful and elaborate affair with a special lama who walked up from Pangboche Gompa. There was music, incense, chanting, and dancing. A very powerful ceremony, deeply meaningful for all of us Ama Dablam members, wishing good luck and safeclimbing to all of us perched here under the prayer flags in the shadow of mighty Mount Ama Dablam. Please let us climb you!!

Caption : Puja Ceremony at Ama dablam base camp. Photo : Nat.

Caption : Puja Ceremony at Ama Dablam base camp for good luck for climbing. Photo : Nat.

Caption : What a photo pose with that background.

Caption : Puja at Basecamp. Video : Sebastian

Caption : Puja Ceremony. Photo : Nat.

8 Nov - We woke up early and ate breakfast in Sonam Lodge Pangboche. We walked up to the Pangboche gompa and visited the Lama. He said prayers and gave us a blessed scarf and tied a special cord loosely around our necks. We toured the gompa and saw the Yeti’s scalp and yeti’s hand. There are lots of golden statues, oil paintings, ancient weapons and carved masks. Afterward we climbed uphill and to see the giant Buddha statue ornate with jewels gold and colorful painting. We descended to Sonam Lodge for lunch and then crossed the Dudh Khosi river on an iron bridge and walked uphill for 2.5 hours to reach Ama Dablam Basecamp, which is located in a very large grassy meadow right at the base of Ama Dablam. This is a gorgeous basecamp, probably the best we have ever seen

Caption : Beautiful base camp seen below Ama Dablam. Photo : Dan.

Caption : An enlightening stroll up to the Pangboche Gompa, which was built in 1667.

7 Nov - Our Lobuche Team woke up in Pangboche to a big breakfast after a warm nights sleep in a good bed. After breakfast they took an enlightening stroll up to the Pangboche Gompa, which was built in 1667. It’s a lovely old building in the oldest village in the Khumbu Valley. Pangboche village was established in the 1500s in a sheltered niche in the wall of the Khumbu Valley where a primeval Juniper Forest was located, surrounded by grassy slopes. Apparently there was a lot of snowfall at the time, as the original Pangboche village was wiped out by an avalanche. Pangboche was the first village in the Khumbu Valley, founded by the original Sherpa families who came from Tibet. In the Tibetan language, Sher means East and Pa means People, so Sherpas are the People from the East. In addition to the ancient Pangboche Village, there is a new Pangboche village down by the river which was built during the last 75 years to serve Everest expeditions and Everest base camp trekkers, who take the more direct route down by the river, rather than hiking up to the old village. After our Lobuche team finished touring around the gompa, they came back down to Sonam Lodge in Pangboche and enjoyed a hot bowl of noodle soup with fresh tea. Then they we set off for Ama Dablam basecamp, climbing the steep grassy slopes up to our lovely basecamp, nestled in a spectacular huge grassy bowl at the base of Ama Dablam.

Caption : Some cute glimpse during our trek to Ama Dablam base camp. Photo : Wendy.

Our Ama Dablam only team woke up on a gorgeous sunny morning in Namche and enjoyed the walk along the chorten dotted Kangzoma ridge and down through the Hemlock forest to Fungki Tangka for a delicious lunch at the base of what must be the Khumbu Valley’s largest Hemlock tree. Incredible views of all of the mountain peaks including Everest, Ama Dablam and Thamserku dominated the skyline all around. Then we climbed up the massive Tengboche Hill, to enjoy exploring around the Tengboche Gompa and enjoy cappuccino and chocolate cake. Yes, even here! Following the path down through the Rhodendrons to Deboche Village, we crossed the Dudh Khosi on a suspension bridge and then climbed through rocky steps up to Pangboche Village. Its really good to be here in the super comfortable Sonam Lodge with such stunning views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Tawoche, right at the base of Ama Dablam. Welcome!

Caption : Team member posing.

Caption : Enjoyed amazing views of Ama Dablam. Members enjoying their lunch. Photo : Dorje.

Caption : Prayer wheel and Ama Dablam in background.

Caption : Jokiyo carrying loads to Ama Dablam Bc. Video : Daniel P.

6 Nov - Today our Ama Dablam Team had an enjoyable rest and acclimatisation day in Namche Bazaar, the capital city/village of the Sherpa people. We awoke early and enjoyed a tasty breakfast. Afterward we walked up the steep hill just above our hotel, and then along a ridge, the Everest View Hotel. The weather is superb today so we have 360 degree views so many of the Himalayan peaks, including Mt. Everest and Amadablam. We had a cup of tea and then headed back down to Hilltop Lodge for lunch. After lunch we went to have a look at the museum, which is really very well done, better than your average museum. We loved the old traditional style Sherpa house, and the historic vs modern photo collection was incredible. This afternoon we occupied ourselves with eating chocolate cake and drinking cappuccino, which seem to be some of the two main food groups of Namche bazaar!

Caption : Namche bazaar view.

Caption : Members at Tangboche. Photo : Sebastian.

Our Lobuche East group had a slow morning, waking up in Dughla and wandering into the dining room of the Yak Hotel for a massive breakfast, trying to replace all of the calories and liquids they lost during the last few days of high altitude climbing. After breakfast, they worked their way down the valley, stopping after an hour for lunch and bakery in Pheriche, and then in the afternoon they reached Pangboche, for a good night around the toasty warm yak dung stove in the dining room of Sonam Lodge. This is the nearest lodge to Ama Dablam and it feels good to be back here, together with old and new friends!!

Caption : Hiking at Khumbu. The famous Namche Bazaar. Photo : Ramsay.

Caption : Hiking in the Khumbu. Photo : Sebastian.

Photo : Sebastian

Caption : Members at Dhugla and Ama Dablam and other Himalayas. Photo : Sebastian

Caption : Members enjoying breakfast.

Caption : AmaDablam. Member posing for photo. Photo : Lars and Sebastian.

Caption : The view from Summit View from Lobuche. Video : Killain.

5 Nov - Our Ama Dablam team walked to Namche Bazaar today. It was tough going but the weather was perfect, sunny and warm, and the trail is in very good shape. Upon arrival in Namche we hit the Sherpa Barista Coffee Shop for cappuccino, the Everest Bakery for pizza, and the Irish Pub for drinks and billiards. It was Sebastian’s 50th birthday so we gave him a flaming brownie…even with a candle and singing the happy birthday song. We walked up to our beautiful hotel: Hilltop Lodge with spacious garden, lavish dining room, private bathrooms and incredible views down into Namche and across the valley into the southern mountain ranges. The birthday party continues and at this exact moment as we write this the team are dining on delicate panna cotta washed down with Sherpa Beer. We just finished singing Happy Birthday once again, and Sebastian presented a small speech, w języku polskim. Happy Birthday Sebastian!!! We wish all of our members would have more birthdays more often as this is really fun!

BIG NEWS: Today all of the members of our Lobuche Team summited!!!!!! They left at 1:00 am, and summited at dawn. The weather was perfect: a clear, dry, and starry night with little wind. Our Sherpas did an incredible job, as per usual. THANK YOU SHERPAS!!! The age range of our members is age 17 to age 65 with a nice mix of half women and half men. Our team members hail from 10 countries. Let me repeat that again: We have members from 10 different countries on this expedition, half of whom are women and half men. OMG and a HUGE CONGRATULATIONS to all of the members, the Sherpas, their families, colleagues and friends! You know and we know that no person is an island and it takes lots of supporting actors from many walks and branches of life to put someone on the summit.

Caption : SummitClimb Team Summit Lobuche. Photo : Dorje.

Photo : Eric.

Lobuche East Trekking Peak News and Amadablam News for 5 November = Special Edition - We are proud to announce that today our youngest team member Kate, who is 17 years old, reached the summit of Lobuche East Trekking Peak together with her father. We are so proud them both, what an inspirational father-daughter team. Congratulations!! Now the successful pair are trekking up to Everest Base Camp, and after that they are considering Amadablam. YOU GO GIRL !!!

Caption : Everest seen from Lobuche Peak. Photo Nat. At the Summit Photo : Wendy.

Caption : Team at the Lobuche Summit Ridge. Photo : Dorje.

Caption : You can see the team on the summit ridge. They began their summit push at 1 a.m. Photo Dorje.

Caption : Lobuche Climb. Video by Dorji.

Caption : Lobuche High Camp. Photo : Dorje.

Caption : Our Climbing Sherpa. Lobuche High Camp. Photo : Wendy.

4 Nov - Update from SummitClimb Ama Dablam team: Our Ama Dablam only team flew to Lukla today FINALLY. The weather was amazing and we took so many photos and videos during the flight. We needed several aircraft, but all of us finally made it. Think about this: our first flight happened at 7am and our last one at 4:30 pm. Quite the scheduling spread, isn’t it? Then we all trekked down to Zamphute Sonam Lodge, a beautiful teahouse located just north of Phakding along the mighty Dudh Khosi river. We had a delicious dinner consisting of about 7 dishes and then hit the sack. Its been a long day and we need some sleep!

SummitClimb Lobuche Peak News update: Our 8 members and 5 Sherpas are now in Lobuche High Camp. This afternoon we all successfully completed rope and ice training. Exciting! There is a heap of snow up here, nevertheless, the weather forecast is good with plenty of sunshine and low winds. BIG NEWS: our team will begin the summit push tonight at 1:00 A.M.

Let’s all wish them good luck for a safe and successful ascent!!!!

Caption : Ready for Summit. Photo : Wendy.

Caption : Lobuche high camp. Photo : Dorje.

Caption : Rope and Ice Training. Team at Lobuche High Camp. Photo : Dorje.

Caption : One of the many suspension bridge. Team at Lukla. Photo : Sebastien.

Caption : New Tenzing and Hillary statue on a beautiful sunny day at Lukla Airport. Photo : Dan.

Caption : Take off at Lukla. Video : Dan.

Caption : Heli flight and view from heli. Photo : Dan.

3 Nov - Lobuche Trekking Peak News and Ama Dablam Expedition News 3 November: We woke up at a reasonable hour, had a relaxed breakfast, and then trekked for a few easy hours along the ridge separating Dingboche and Pheriche, above the Dudh Khosi valley. We crossed the river and then popped up at Dughla, A tiny hamlet perched above the Dudh Khosi river, at the base of Dughla Hill. We are staying in the famous Yak Hotel, with stunning views over the Pangboche valley and towering summits of Ama Dablam and Tawoche. Everyone is feeling well.

Our Ama Dablam only team went to the Ktm airport to fly to Lukla today. The airport was closed this morning because the president of Nepal needed to fly to Singapore, so the entire airport was closed and no other flights were allowed to land or takeoff. After that was finished around noon, all of the available aircraft were diverted to a different airport of Nepal to help fly the 400 tourist s who have been stuck there for 4 days due to bad weather. The upshot of it all is that we can’t fly to Lukla today :( very sad but what to do. Sometimes when we are on these mountain climbing trips, small challenges happen and we have to figure out an alternative. This is the life of a mountaineer, and teaches us lessons of humility and flexibility. So now we are heading back into town for a delicious dinner at the Mitho Cafe, and a good nights rest.

Our from the road head trekker has hiked all of the way up to Chukkung and is now camped out at the approach to Island Peak. Good on ya mate!

Caption : Team at Dhugla. Photo : Nat.

Caption : Team at Dingboche. Photo : Dan.

2 Nov - Lobuche East News and Mt Ama Dablam News for : We members of the Lobuche team eat a big breakfast and hike up the famous ridge of Nangkartshang. Lots of deep snow on the upper part, but we made the top and snapped many beautiful shots. Incredible scenery of Ama Dablam and Tawoche. And, guess what, we broke the 5000 metre barrier. Good job team. Hard to breath up there, but slow and steady wins the race, as long as we remember to drink enough water.

Our Ama Dablam Only group had a team briefing to discuss what to expect during the trek. We did some last minute shopping and packed our bags into 4 categories: 1) store bag, 2) airplane rucksack, 3) trekking duffle, 4) climbing duffle - going direct to basecamp. We joined together for a tasty dinner at the Roadhouse, where the kind staff gave us the best table in the house. We went out for a few drinks afterward and then back to the Harati Manor Inn for an early bedtime. Good night sweet dreams!

Caption : Dingboche and SummitClimb Sherpa.

1 Nov - The weather is steadily improving. Today started off a bit cloudy and then it cleared off and became clear. Our Lobuche East Peak team walked to Dingboche. It was super lovely, with abundant fall colours, raging rivers, and lots of wildlife and soaring birds. The walk took up about 3 hours and then we arrived at the Himalayan Culture Home. A lovely quaint lodge in Dingboche town, with its many numerous bakeries and coffee shops. In Dingboche we are never far from a delicious piece of chocolate cake and a cappuccino! Our Lobuche team is now united, the final member was waiting patiently for man days for us to arrive. Yes we made it and are all together at last!!! Our walk-in-from-the-road member is enjoying homely comforts and acclimating in Namche today.

Our Ama Dablam Climb Only Expedition finished the last bits and pieces of gear shopping, and explored around Kathmandu. We enjoyed a lovely dinner at K-Too located in the heart of Thamel which is great for people watching . We are pretty sure we saw people from at least 50 countries inside and outside the restaurant. After dinner we went to a sports pub to watch the Tottenham-Chelsea match. If you like Chelsea you would be happy with the outcome!

Caption : Team and Dingboche. Photo : Wendy G.

31 Oct - Happy Halloween and hope everyone is having a spooktacular day !! Today we walked to Pangboche. Some light/medium rain but not too bad. We are getting used to this now, or so it seems (better be careful what you wish for)! Leaving Namache after breakfast, we dropped a lot of elevation through Rhododendron forest to Fungki Thangka for lunch and then made the big climb up to Tengboche Monastery, where monks are chanting and spinning prayer wheels for all of us. There is a pretty good bakery and coffee shop at Tengboche. It’s a pretty hike through Rhodies and Hemlocks with a slight downhill to Deboche, the home of the Ani’s Gompa, one of the oldest nunneries in Nepal, and the site of the famous Deboche Project, where some wonderful sponsors are working hard to preserve Sherpa Women’s Culture. This is prime musk deer habitat, and we were hoping to see one, munching on Rhododendron leaves. Then we crossed over a suspension bridge to hike the last long gradual uphill to Pangboche town, passing through Himalayan Tahr Mountain Sheep habitat on the grassy cliffy slopes above the Dudh Khosi River Gorge. Finally we made it into Pangboche, to the far end of the village where we were welcomed to a nice cup of tea and a warm dry dining room at the lovely Sonam Lodge. A long day but highly rewarding and guess what, we are only 5 metres shy of 4000 metres, a real benchmark in our quest for altitude acclimatization attainment. Our advance member is waiting patiently in Dingboche. Tomorrow is the day we will meet up and our Lobuche team will finally be complete. Our Himalayan Hiker is enjoying maximum rest in Namche today.

Our Ama Dablam only group is now complete with the arrival of the final three members. We are all together now and it feels good to be gelling…finally. We did a lot of gear checking and a marathon of gear shopping at several of Kathmandu’s finest mountain shops, some of which are specialized in renting and hiring, others really good at dealing in used gear and local made quality kit, and several famous shops which only sell brand new imported “world gear”. We heard a Nepalese folk band at dinner and hit the pub for a few drinks. It was Halloween Night, so there were some wild costumes and fancy dress. Loads of fun!

Caption : Lunch stop at Fungki Thangka, Our Members at Sonam Lodge Pangboche. Photo : Wendy.

Caption : Trekking through the stunning Khumbu Valley — breathtaking views, crisp mountain air, and unforgettable moments on the way. Photo : Daniel P.

30 Oct - Namche Rest Day Today. For the sake of a bit more acclimatization, we walked up to Everest View Hotel in the rain and fog. Not much going on up there so we came back down to Hilltop Hotel for a delicious hot lunch. We headed downtown for cappuccino and chocolate cake and a few rounds of billiards and beers at the Irish Pub. It was fun walking around the streets of Namche and checking out all of the shops and souvenir tables. Later on we hiked back up to Hilltop and went a little further to see the excellent Sherpa Museum. In the evening we huddled around the toasty warm yak dung stove in Hilltop’ toasty warm dining room. Great rest day. Our advance members walked up to Dingboche to touch the snow and go on a meditation quest to the Lawudo Monastery. Our Himalayan through hiker stayed down in town and looks they will chillax in Namche for a few more days. Our Ama Dablam only team began arriving in Ktm and we checked their gear and did shopping. We met up with some returning Baruntse members for fabulous Thai food and then hit Sam’s Bar for a quick one afterward. It rained a lot today all over Nepal, but we somehow managed to make the best of it

Caption : Kathmandu trekking shop. Restaurant at Kathmandu. Photo : Dan.

Caption : One of many Prayer wheels and Suspension bridge. Photo : Killian R.

29 Oct - We got up early, had breakfast and started walking up the trail. The rain abated and it stayed mainly dry. We walked through the villages of Benkar and Monjo and entered Sagarmatha National Park. After completing a few entry formalities we stopped for lunch at Buddha Lodge in Jorsalle, along the roaring Sun Khosi River. After lunch we trekked through pretty forests and started climbing up, crossing the famous suspension bridge at the junction of the Dudh Khosi and Bhote Khosi Rivers. Then it was uphill all afternoon, walking at a slow steady pace with plenty of rest stops, until the first glimpse of Namche Bazaar, where we got to stroll through Namche’s water park with all of the lovely water powered prayer wheels, wander the streets of downtown Namche, have a quick cappuccino and a slice of apple pie, and then climb the final hill up to Hilltop Lodge where we will be staying for the next few days. Hilltop Lodge is a beautiful lodge with fabulous views down into Namche Town and looking across the valley to Kwangde Ri, the massive peak dominating the skyline over the Bhote Khosi River valley. What a tough but rewarding day. Everyone is feeling quite well. Our early trekking group walked up to Pangboche today and our Road Warrior who trekked in from the end of the road also made it to Namche today, powerd by tongba drink. All of us are looking forward to getting some well deserved rest, eating lots of pizza, chocolate cake, having molti cappuccini and maybe even a pint or two

Caption : Namche bazaar and Hotel Everest view.

Caption : Some shots from the amazing Thame trek today — such a scenic and peaceful route! Photo : Nat.

Caption : Silently flowing Dudh Koshi River and the walking trail leading toward the Himalayas. Photo : Nat.

Caption : Member enjoying the trail with the iconic Hillary Bridge in the background. Photo Daniel P.

28 Oct - We woke up in Namaste Lodge at Lukla after a good night’s rest and had a big breakfast, then sorted out our bags and got them loaded on yaks. It was raining but thank heavens we were well prepared with rain gear and umbrellas. We trekked down through various checkposts where we had to register for certain entry permits and then continued to walk downhill along beautiful trails through oak and pine forest, along the Sun Khosi River, crossing several times on picturesque suspension bridges. We walked through Ghat Villages with all of its carved boulders painted with white Buddhist prayers, and on to Phakding, developed lunch town. Finally we reached Zamphute town and the Sonam Guesthouse, where we dried out by the warm stove in the dining room and had a nice dinner and went to sleep in our comfortable bedrooms. A good start to the trek = our first day on the trail, albeit downhill all of the way! Our advanced trekkers had a good day of walking around in Namche, taking pictures of the new snow piling up on the bushes and trees above town….a winter wonderland!

Caption : himalayan mona. Himalayan Tahr Mountain Sheep. Photo : Nat.

Caption : Prayer wheels and Lord Buddha’s painting blessing the trail to Phakding.

Caption : Dinner time at Phakding.

Caption : Hiking towards Phakding. Photo Wendy

27 Oct - We awoke in Harati Manor Inn Hotel at 630am and got our bags ready to go to the airport. We had a big breakfast at 7am and we sorted our bags into four piles: a) storage, b) carryon, c) trekking duffle, d) climbing duffle. We took some group photos, tipped the hotel staff, and piled into 2 vans. Arriving at KTM domestic airport, our office staff was there to greet us and help us to enter the waiting room. Our first group helicoptered to Lukla around noon and our second group around 3pm. It was a very smooth and scenic flight. Our bags arrived throughout the day, on various cargo flights. The weather began to turn cloudy. We stayed in Namaste Lodge and enjoyed lunch and dinner and went to bed early, in anticipation of tomorrow’s trek. Our Namche pre-trekking group had fun hiking around town and going to Everest View Hotel, for first views of Ama Dablam. Our road warrior finished his bus and jeep journey from KTM to Surke Village, had a nice dinner and a big mug of Tonga Drink, and fell asleep in a soft well –deserved bed.

Caption : There she is. AmaDablam. Photo : Nat and Peter

Caption : Lukla. Photo : Daniel P.

Caption : Video by Wendy.

Caption : Heli ride and Lukla. Photo : Wendy.

Cpation : Namche Bazaar. Team member with Lukla dog. Photo : Peter and Wendy

Caption : Departure from the hotel for the domestic airport. Teams are hiring and Purchasing climbing equipment at the ktm trekking shop.

26 Oct - Lobuche News and Ama Dablam News -

Today was a busy day and a lot of things fell into place. One of our members left the hotel at 4am to catch his bus to the beginning of the trek in the Khumbu (he chose not to fly with the group). We enjoyed a delicious breakfast in the hotel while one of our members arrived from the airport. We checked their gear and went shopping for high altitude clothing and boots, also changing money and buying some snack food at the supermarket. The two members who arrived yesterday woke up and we checked their gear and took them shopping as well. We had a lovely lunch at a garden restaurant. Some of our team were feeling a bit jet laggy, so took a nap. We checked the weather forecast and a big storm is supposed to come in on the 28th, so we decided to fly tomorrow, on the 27th. It’s a challenging decision to make and involves a bit of “gear-changing” but, what to do, its better than getting caught in a transport bottleneck due to Lukla airport closures. Our members are to be commended for their ability to switch plans on such short notice and be so flexible and adaptable. Truly the mark of a real mountaineer. We had an amazing dinner at the lovely Ying Yang restaurant, and reviewed some expedition logistics with everyone while we sipped our drinks and crunched on yummy food in a private quiet comfortable and rather well appointed dining room. During dinner some last minute arriving members joined us after finishing their gear shopping at the wonderful Kathmandu shop which kindly agreed to stay open late. After the meal we bought a few more essentials and then retreated to the hotel to finish packing and go to bed early as tomorrow will be a big day. Good Night and Rest Well.

BTW our members who began their trek early have now reached Namche, after hiking up the big Namche Hill and are relaxing comfortably in their Namche hotels. Have fun up there friends!!

Caption : Members having dinner at Kathmandu restaurant. Lobuche + AmaDablam Ready to fly Lukla.

25 Oct - Ama Dablam News and Lobuche News: Late last night some members arrived from Singapore. Early this morning one of our members went to the airport to catch the helicopter to Lukla, which involved a fair bit of sitting around and waiting in the ktm airport. Later on this morning a few of us enjoyed breakfast together and afterward we checked some more member’s gear and went shopping to rent/hire their high altitude down gear, mitts, boots, and sleeping bags. Some more members arrived mid morning. They had lunch and then went to bed after the long flight. This afternoon one of our members dropped off their duffle bags / hold-alls here in the hotel, because their plan is to take a bus and jeep up to the starting point of the trek, using the new road system, rather than fly to Lukla. We all met for dinner at 630 pm this evening and enjoyed the delicious food and excellent service at the Roadhouse, including amazing pastries for desert and complete with Irish coffee. Finally we went out to the pub to see someone about a dog, and shared stories and lively discussion. Now it’s off to bed for a comfortable night’s sleep. Btw several of our members are already in the Khumbu and getting a head start on their acclimatization. They have been sending us their photos and videos. Looks like they are having a grand time of it!

Caption : Enjoyed the delicious food and excellent service at the Roadhouse.

Caption : We checked some more member’s gear and went shopping to rent/hire their high altitude down gear, mitts, boots, and sleeping bags.

24 Oct Ama Dablam and Lobuche News: Yesterday a few members arrived, we checked their gear, did shopping for the few missing bits and pieces and they flew to Lukla this morning on the first flight. Incredible weather. Today more members arrived and we had a look at their gear and they went to the Ktm hire shop and hired/rented the high altitude warm clothing, big mitts and big boots. They changed money and got cash out of the cash machine. We ate a few meals together especially yummy pizza, and then went out to a local Pub to enjoy our team camaraderie and stay hydrated