Dear Friends, Climbers and Walkers. I am Dan Mazur, one of the Everest Summit Climb and basecamp walk leaders at www.SummitClimb.com and www.SummitTrek.com. This is the pre-trip newsletter for men and women of all ages from around the world joining our Spring 2010 expeditions and walks. How has 2010 been for you so far? I hope you have been preparing for spring, staying fit, walking and climbing in your local hills, not working too hard and relaxing with family, friends and colleagues.
Please click one of the links below to go directly to that section of the newsletter or just scroll down. Thank you.
- Recent News
- Trips 2010 and 2011
- Preparation - what to bring
- In Kathmandu (KTM) - arrival and departure
- Equipment and supplies for walking and climbing
- Sherpas and staff
- Information for climbers
- Donate medicines - education supplies, clothing, etc to Mt Everest Foundation for Sustainable Development
We offer a number of exciting trips this year and next, which you may review on our website at www.SummitClimb.com and www.SummitTrek.com. Read a short description for each trip below (including how things went last year) and click links to view slideshows.
Please ask as many questions as possible, so that we may understand one another's expectations. Informed team members achieve their goals with greater satisfaction, and are better and safer "team players". We love discussing our favourite subject, MOUNTAINS, so please ask us anything.
NOW IS THE TIME TO JOIN OUR 2010 TRIPS if you have not already. Please click the links below and go to our **LIVE ONLINE SLIDESHOWS** (large peaks are at the top of the list and fun walks a bit lower down the list):
NEWS FLASH: All climbs now feature western leaders, excellent food, the best sherpas, a comfortable individual tent for each person in basecamp and some of the finest equipment on the mountain.
If you consider joining (we hope you will) please be sure to read this newsletter to the end and understand it fully. Thank you.
The three goals for our expeditions and walks are:
o a. Safety;
o b. Fun, Friendship, and Teamwork;
o c. Achieving our goals, reaching the summit, basecamp, OR your service project, and returning safely. back to top
2009 was a successful year for our climbing teams, with members and sherpas reaching the summits of Everest-Tibet, Everest-Nepal, the North-Col, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Lhotse, Baruntse, Lobuche, and Aconcagua. We were also accompanied by walkers on these expeditions, who enjoyed the journey to basecamp and some went even higher.
We were blessed with superb weather, very strong, and helpful sherpas, good equipment, delicious food, and may I say, excellent leaders. We look forward to 2010 and encourage you to join our friendly groups in forthcoming mountain adventures.
In recent SummitClimb news, our leader Doug Sandok just led 6 of 8 members to the summit of Aconcagua, the highest mountain in all of the Americas. Dan has been lecturing to raise funds to build a new high school for 300 girls and boys in a poor remote region of Nepal. The members of our www.AlpsMeet.com are currently enjoying great skiing, boarding, climbing, snow shoeing/racquetting this winter in the Alps around Chamonix. Then, during April and May we are off to Everest from both Nepal and Tibet, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, the North Col, Everest Glacier School, etcetera. For more information, please go to www.SummitClimbNews.com . Thank you very much!
Perhaps there is no better time to visit the Himalaya. Not only does the spring season provide some of the best weather of the year, but now is a very good time to climb and explore in Nepal and Tibet, as tourism has dropped to its lowest level in many years, due to the global economic situation. The mountains are very quiet and it has been rather peaceful for the last 3 years everywhere in Nepal and Tibet. Additionally, we have decided not to increase prices in 2010, so you can enjoy 2008 level prices for just a few more months before we raise them. back to top
Please read down to learn more about our spring climbs, walks, and trekking peaks, as well as our trips for summer and autumn 2010. Spaces are still available, so we hope you'll join us during this peaceful and sunny time to visit the Himalaya.
We present our pre-trip newsletter to you in case you are already a member, or are still thinking of joining and/or wish to read about how we conduct our expeditions. Thanks in advance for telling all of your friends and colleagues about what we are trying to do. Let us join together with a friendly team of men and women of all ages from around the world for fun and adventure in the mountains.
We encourage you to take advantage and book one of the presently inexpensive flights which are still available. Please let us know if you need any help finding inexpensive flights. back to top
CLIMB MOUNT EVEREST in April and May. Led by friendly and very experienced Everest expert Dan Mazur. Our 6th season on the Tibet side of Everest. The most affordable and less crowded way to climb Everest on the route made famous by Mallory and Irvine in 1924. Our Tibet-Everest teams have always been successful and always received a permit. The Tibetan authorities welcome us back with open arms for 2010. 6 members are currently signed on. Full Service Cost: $23,450, £14,150, €15,750. www.EverestClimb.com .
We also invite you to join our 7th annual Nepal-Everest and Lhotse climbs. We have five members for Everest and three for Lhotse. Team leader Josette Valloton has a wealth of experience including multiple ascents of Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma. Team coordinator Raj Thapa is a qualified mountain guide and an expert friendly leader/organizer and his wife Pemba was the first Nepali woman to successfully climb Everest. www.EverestClimbNepal.com and www.LhotseClimb.com .
‘EASY’ EVEREST NORTH COL CLIMB: 28 days in April or May. Join friendly and helpful Everest leader Dan Mazur and head for the "shoulder" of Everest to see how you feel at 7000 metres climbing high on the most famous mountain in the world while exploring exotic Tibet. Dan will teach you everything you need to know. If you feel well on the Col, you could carry on to the summit as climbing the North Col could qualify you for. 4 members are currently enrolled for April and 3 for May. Full Service Cost: $6750, £4050, €4550. www.NorthColClimb.com back to top
CHO OYU: May or September. 38 days of ‘easy’ snow climbing on the world’s most accessible 8000 metre peak, located near Everest. Led by Dan Mazur and Max Kausch. Our 10th expedition and probably the best possible preparation for climbing Mt Everest. Enjoy this beautiful accomplishable climb to the summit of the world’s 6th. We have 4 members for Cho Oyu in May and 5 for Cho Oyu in October. Please note, only a few more days are available to join the May Cho Oyu expedition, so do contact us as soon as possible. Also, some crazy people plan to ski/board Cho Oyu in September, so you may wish to come along for that as well! Full Service Cost: $10,950, £6650, €7350. www.ChoOyuClimb.com highest peak in a relatively short period
MUSTAGATA CLIMB: 25 days in July. The world’s ‘easiest’ 7500 metre peak. Walk, climb, ski, snowboard, snowshoe, and snow-raquette to the summit of Mustagata and down. Friendly leader Jon Otto will teach you everything you need to know, has climbed it nine times and you will enjoy not only his expertise and care, but his ability to speak perfect English and Chinese is impressive. Climbing Mustagata qualifies you for Everest. 4 have joined the team already. Full Service Cost: $4450, £2650, €3050. www.MustagataClimb.com
AMA DABLAM: October (32 days). Led by Dan Mazur, our 11th expedition to the most famous rock-ice-snow climb in all Asia. Technical but accomplishable, Ama Dablam is 6800 metres high and one of the most photographed peaks in the world, just 20 kilometres/12 miles from Everest. The rock is good solid granite, and the climbing is mostly easy ‘scrambling’ with a few technical moves well-protected by properly anchored ropes. Climbing Ama Dablam qualifies you for Everest. 4 members have joined the team. Full Service Cost: $5650, £3350, €3750. www.AmaDablamClimb.com back to top
MOUNT BARUNTSE: October (32 days). Led by Dan Mazur, our 2nd expedition to Nepal’s ‘easiest’ 7000 metre peak. This climb incorporates an ‘acclimatization’ easy-snow-climb of Mera Peak, a spectacular 6500 metre ‘trekking-peak’ with stunning views of Everest, then moves on to Baruntse’s stunning ‘easy but high’ snow climbing with breathtaking views of the entire Everest Massif. Dan will teach you everything you need to know. Two peaks for the price of one, and a grand circuit tour around the Everest Himalaya. Climbing Baruntse qualifies you for Everest. 3 members are currently signed. Full Service Cost: $6750, £4050, €4550. www.BaruntseClimb.com
SHISHAPANGMA: September climb to the summit of the lowest of the world's fourteen 8000 metre/26,000 foot peaks. Located near Everest. Less crowded than Cho Oyu. Easy snow-climb is an excellent preparation for climbing Everest. We teach you everything you need to know. Get qualified for Everest. Combine with our Cho-Oyu expedition and earn a 20 percent discount. Leader: Dan Mazur has climbed Shishapangma twice and this is our 5thShishapangma expedition. Full Service Cost: $10,950, £6650, €7350. www.ShishapangmaClimb.com . back to top
EVEREST BASECAMP WALK NEPAL: 18 days in April, May and October. Walk on wide snow-free trails through green terraced villages perched beside rapidly flowing rivers beneath the towering snowy giants of the Himalaya to Nepal's most famous and beautiful basecamp first climbed by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Sherpa; hike the scenic ridge of Kala Pattar with stunning views of Everest. Your leaders Mingma Sherpa and his wife Yangjie Sherpa are highly educated, were raised in this valley, have been to the Hillary School and attended university in Kathmandu. Their English is superb, they are friendly and gracious hosts, and as you walk together each day, they will explain every detail of the trek and answer all of your questions. Full Service Cost: $1850, £1150, €1250. www.EverestNepalWalk.com
ADVANCED BASECAMP WALK TIBET: 20 days in April and May. Drive from Kathmandu into Tibet past towering mountains through deep gorges onto the high altitude Tibetan plateau, then walk the world-famous 'golden highway' on good trails to Everest advanced basecamp at 6400 metres, made famous by Mallory and Irvine in 1924. This is probably the highest you could ever walk and still be on a well-trodden path used by yaks. Dan Mazur will be leading the April walk. He has led this walk 4 times and is a friendly and relaxed but well-organized leader who holds a deep respect and affinity for the people and environment of the Tibetan Plateau. Full Service Cost: $2950, £1750, €1950. www.EverestTibetWalk.com back to top
EVEREST GLACIER SCHOOL: 22 days in April, May or October. Looking to acquire mountain skills and high-altitude confidence in a short period of time? Join friendly, patient and accomplished British mountain leaders Raj and Abbey for a fun learning trip to ‘easy’ 6200 metre Lobuche Peak with stunning views of Everest. They will teach you everything you need to know to climb in the Himalaya. Course includes 3 days of glacier instruction, followed by a slow and cautious 2 day Lobuche Peak climb. 6 members have signed for April, 3 for May, and 3 for October. Full Service Cost: $2750, £1650, €1850. Seven day option: $1150, £750, €850. Add on a fun trek to Everest Basecamp and Kala Pattar for $450, £250, €350. www.EverestGlacierSchool.com
ISLAND ‘TREKKING-PEAK’ CLIMB: 22 days in April, May, or October. Nepal's famous ‘easy’ 'trekking peak'. Climb to 6000 metres in just one day. Fabulous views of Lhotse south face and Makalu. This trip can be done on its own or combined with the Everest basecamp trek, or the Everest Glacier School. Your leader Mingma Sherpa has climbed Island peak 17 times and will teach you everything you need to know. He is highly educated, was raised in this valley, has been to the Hillary School and attended university in Kathmandu. His English is superb, he is very friendly and can explain every detail of the trek and answer all of your questions. 3 members are with us now. Full Service Cost: $2750, £1650, €1850. Five day option: $1050, £650, €750. www.IslandPeakClimb.com
MERA ‘TREKKING-PEAK’ CLIMB: 22 days in October. Walk-climb beautiful, ‘easy’, and remote 6500 metre Mera Peak, with some of the best views of Everest possible. This is a stunning trek through ancient forests beside raging rivers and across high remote passes. A less visited and unspoiled region of Nepal. Leader Raj is a very kind, friendly, and professional British mountain guide and trek leader. Raj has climbed Mera peak 6 times. 2 members have joined. Full Service Cost: $2750, £1650, €1850. www.MeraPeakClimb.com back to top
EVEREST BASECAMP SERVICE WALK: 22 days in April. Join a support walk to the Pema Choling Women’s Convent also known as the Deboche Nunnery, where a water-line project is in progress, then walk to the famous Everest Base Camp and Kala Pattar, with incredible views of Everest. Raj will be leading your walk. He is a very kind and friendly British mountain guide and trek leader, and has devoted years of his life to rebuilding the convent, in memory of his famous wife, Pemba Sherpa, the first Nepalese woman to successfully climb Everest. Donation: $2750, £1650, €1850. (100% of your contribution for the walk and your international flight are tax deductible). www.EverestBasecampServiceWalk.org
REMOTE NEPAL SERVICE WALK: 14 days in November. Walk with us to a seldom-visited area near Everest on a hospital aid and school teaching expedition to help poor families help themselves. The leader is Dan Mazur and this is his 8th service walk, so he knows the region well and the families we are staying with are his good friends. Additionally he knows many of the students, teachers, nurses, doctors and patients in the area. Join this walk to gain an insider’s perspective and discover an area filled with friendly and kind (but very poor) families that will really appreciate and be thankful for your visit. Donation: $1450, £850, €950. (100% of your contribution for the trek and your international flight are tax deductible). www.ServiceWalk.org back to top
1) Purchase your flight ticket now. Flights are still available. Return flights from UK-Kathmandu-UK are 600 pounds, 650 euros, $850. Return flights from USA-Kathmandu-USA are $1500. Please let us know if you need assistance in booking your ticket. We are here to help.
2) Application paperwork and payment - what we need in your file. Now is the time for the completion of registration formalities, if you have not done so already.
Delay in receipt of the following items listed below may result an inability to get you onto the permit and perhaps even a delay of your departure from Kathmandu.
Here is a checklist of what we need to have in your file immediately. We encourage you to send an electronic scan of all of the below documents, please be sure they are signed. Thank you: back to top
o [ ] Completed Payment. Please restate payments you made and
what those payments were for, ie full vs basic, sherpas,
o [ ] Make your Oxygen order (if any) crystal clear at this
time, number of bottles, masks, payment, etc.
o [ ] Make your Sherpa order (if any) crystal clear at this
time, personal sherpa, quarter sherpa, payment, etc.
o [ ] Signed Trip Registration and Waiver Forms (part 4 page
o [ ] Signed Medical Form (part of 4 page form),
o [ ] 2 Passport-Sized Photos Scan
o [ ] Scan of passport identification pages,
o [ ] Complete flight itinerary,
o [ ] Proof of mountain rescue and repatriation insurance,
o [ ] Proof of travel, accident, and repatriation insurance
(cancellation insurance is advised). back to top
Please do let us know what further questions you may have about the registration process, or anything else for that matter. Thank you.
3) Please bring all of your personal paperwork, including your original proof of insurance, at least two extra photos, etcetera.
4) How much money to bring. Please remember to bring lots of cash $, £, €, for your hotels and food and tips, and Nepal visa, which you will purchase upon arrival at the Kathmandu (KTM) airport, as well as a passport photo, necessary for obtaining the visa. Your Tibet visa will be obtained by our office. Please do not try to buy your Tibet visa before coming to Nepal.
Your Nepal visa is conveniently purchased by you upon arrival at the Kathmandu airport. It is not necessary to purchase a Nepalese visa prior to landing in Nepal. In 2009, the cost of a 60 day visa was $40 USD. If you will be going to Tibet, we recommend getting a 60 day double-entry Nepal visa upon arrival at the airport in Kathmandu instead of the normal single entry visa. Thus, when reentering Nepal upon your return from Tibet at the end of the trip you won't have to purchase a new visa. Please bring cash and 2 extra passport-sized photos (extra photos are necessary to obtain the visa in the airport). back to top
Visa note for Tibet trips: If your expedition is in Tibet, we provide special support to you in Kathmandu in organizing your Tibet-China visa. Be ready to pay up to $220 USD for your Tibetan visa if you are from the US and $135 if you are from other countries. It may be cheaper, but we will tell you and provide a receipt. Thank you.
Please also bring plenty of cash for tips + gratuities, for shopping, drinks, etcetera. You will be paying for your own hotel and meals in KTM. There are good bank, cash, atm machines, especially in KTM. However, these cash machines will only distribute Nepali rupees, so you must bring foreign currencies, $, £, €, from home. Travelers cheques are inconvenient. They can only be handled by large banks and may only be claimed into Nepali rupees. You can’t use them to buy things, pay for hotels, restaurants, nor for tips/gratuities. Be sure to bring extra cash to Tibet and Nepal basecamps for tipping the sherpas and staff as many of them will not be returning to KTM. $, £, €, work well in Kathmandu. For Nepal walks and climbs, you will change money into rupees after arriving in Kathmandu. Members who don’t bring enough cash are often found sitting on their hands in a dark and cold hotel room or tent while the rest of the team are out having fun enjoying the night life that is sometimes surprisingly interesting and funny, the sometimes fun pubs, swimming pools, spas, and shopping. back to top
If you are going to Tibet, please be sure to bring plenty of cash $, £, €, for your sundries and tips and China-Tibet visa. There are no cash machines in Tibet and Travelers cheques are not accepted. You must carry cash. Dollars work best once you are inside Tibet. Those of you going to Tibet may wish to consider bringing only dollars or changing a portion of your currency into local currency in Zhangmu, upon crossing into Tibet from Nepal. Bring plenty of extra cash. All of your tips to staff and sherpas must be paid on the spot in cash. Also, you may encounter the occasionally very good inexpensive carpet and souvenir shopping that can be found, at low prices where no credit cards and no traveler's cheques may be used.
Note: If you are going to Tibet, please bring $700 cash in case you leave early and need to hire a car back to Nepal. This means:
- Cho Oyu expedition members: please bring at least $1000 cash with you to Tibet.
- Everest Tibet expedition members: please bring at least $1500 cash with you to Tibet.
Please make sure to budget enough money and bring it along with you into the field for all of your extra expenses, tips, shopping, etcetera. Once you are away from Kathmandu you can’t get any money, it’s hard to change money, etcetera. Thank you. back to top
5) Helicopter rescue and travel insurance is required. Do you have your proof of travel and mountain rescue insurances? Remember, you need to be covered for all mishaps, including both in town, enroute, and during climbing and/or walkking. If you have sent the above, thank you very much.
6) Your credit card is your helicopter rescue bond. We will require you to complete a credit card authority letter, and attach your credit card. This will be taken care of at our office in Kathmandu. The letter and your credit card will be kept locked in our safe and we have never had a problem with this in the past. We need the name and contact details of an emergency contact person who is available 24 hours a day, speaks English, and is able to wire funds to Nepal on your behalf, up to $10,000, on immediate notice. This is in case you are injured and require a helicopter rescue (only available in Nepal, not available in Tibet, where rescue is via yak and jeep, but you still need helicopter insurance for Tibet climbs, in case you need a Heli down from the Tibet border to Kathmandu as this road is sometimes closed). They never start the rescue until they have your money, and we are unable to pay for any rescue on your behalf. The above mentioned insurance is necessary and also required, but insurance companies are slow in paying claims, and we can't have you lying on the mountainside, awaiting the helicopter rescue flight while your insurance company investigates the claim. Thank you. back to top
7) Arriving in KTM, meeting your flight, and going to your hotel.
Note: For members doing Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Baruntse, Mera Peak, Service Trek, Lhakpa Ri/North Col, and Tibet walks our staff will meet you at the airport holding a "SummitClimb" sign.
For members on the Everest Basecamp walk Nepal, Island Peak, and Everest View Glacier School our staff will meet you at the airport holding a "SummitTrek" sign. back to top
Our staff try to personally meet your flight at the Kathmandu airport and bring you to the hotel. We were able to meet all of our team members during 2009. Do we have your exact arrival (and departure) information, including: airline, flight number, arrival date, arrival time, coming from where? If you have sent the above, thank you very much. Before leaving the airport please change a little money ($20, 10 pounds, or 10 euros) into rupees at the exchange counter. You will get a better rate once you are inside Kathmandu, so please don’t change too much. When you walk out of the airport terminal, please walk slowly and carefully and look for the sign bearing your name (usually your last, or surname, but occasionally your first, or given name). The sign may also simply say "Summit Climb or Summit Trek". In case we miss you, please take a 300-500 rupee taxi to the hotel. We did not miss anyone last year, but some members did not read the signs.
Important: All members of all teams are urgently instructed to never tip more than $1 or 1 euro or 1 pound or 100 rupees at the airport in exchange for receiving help with your luggage. These airport people are becoming really persistent and expect that visitors will not know any better. Sometimes they ask for huge amounts of money and people give it to them, so please be aware and cautious when you arrive. Please also note that if 10 people try to carry your bag, they don’t all receive a tip. You just give the money to one of them and let them divide it among themselves. back to top
NOTE: If you are arriving early, please make sure to go check in at our office, so our staff can begin working on the permit, check your equipment, help with purchasing any missing bits, etcetera.
8) Print out our KTM office details and carry with you at all times. Our Kathmandu office managers are:
Climbing Office (For members doing Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Baruntse, Mera Peak, Service Trek, Lhakpa Ri/North Col, and Tibet Treks) -
Mr. Murari Sharma and Mr. Deha Shrestha
Everest Parivar Expedition (inside Beijing Hotel):
Jyatha Kantipath, Near Thamel
office tel: (9771)-4249825, 4248813
residence tel: 9771-4418210, 4428110
mobile: (977) 985102-3985 or 985109-1456 back to top
Walking & Trekking Peaks Office (For members on the Everest Basecamp walk Nepal, Island Peak, and Everest View Glacier School) -
Mr. Raj Thapa & Mr. Bunty
Climb High Himalaya
Street : Milijuli Tole
Address : Mahrajgunj, Chakrapath
House No. 73
Ward No. 3
Raj's mobile No. (977) 9803753327
Land telephone: (9771) 4016174
PLEASE PRINT OUT ITEM 8 AND CARRY IT WITH YOU AT ALL TIMES (ESPECIALLY ON ARRIVAL) IN CASE YOU BECOME LOST. back to top
9) KTM HOTEL. Hotels and food in Kathmandu only, but not out on the road, trek, or expedition, are your responsibility.
Climbing (For members doing Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Baruntse, Mera Peak, Service Trek, Lhakpa Ri/North Col, and Tibet walks) -
This year we are offering two types of hotel, “basic” and “luxury”. Basic hotels cost approximately $25 per night. Our basic hotel this year is the Beijing Hotel.
Jyatha Kantipath, Near Thamel
The Beijing hotel is a good quality clean, hot water when-the-sun-shines hotel in a central neighbourhood, near many tasty restaurants, and excellent mountain equipment and gift shopping.
Luxury hotels cost approximately $85 per night (One example of a luxury hotel is the Annapurna Hotel in KTM). The difference between luxury and basic is that luxury hotels have several restaurants, bars, and a swimming pool inside the hotel. They accept credit cards, with a surcharge.The Annapurna is a 15 minute walk from the Beijing Hotel and surrounding neighbourhood. We book your hotel for you, so please only view the websites to decide which hotel you prefer and leave the arrangements to us. back to top
NOTE: We have a white-board in the lobby of the Beijing Hotel that announces the schedule of activities each day you are in Kathmandu. Please check this throughout the day, so you know where the team is meeting each day. Please also be advised that schedules can change quickly in this part of the world, so watch the board carefully for updates and stay in contact with our office. Thanks.
Walkking & Trekking Peaks (For members on the Everest Basecamp Trek Nepal, Island Peak, and Everest View Glacier School) -
We are booking your hotels at either the Hotel Tibet or Hotel Shakti. They are both comfortable and clean mid-range hotels in the heart of Kathmandu, close to good shopping. They cost around $55 USD/night. Here is the information for them:
HOTEL TIBET PVT LTD
P.O BOX 7956,Lazimpath
Tel : 977 - 1 - 4429085 - 8
Fax : 977 - 1- 4410957
Amrit Marg, Bhagwan Bahal, Thamel,
Tel.: 977-1-4700902, 977-1-4700893 back to top
10) Arrive in KTM on the first day of our itinerary for the team orientation. All members must be present on the first day of our scheduled itinerary in Kathmandu unless you have made special arrangements. We need your passports on that day so that we can obtain the permit for you to go to the mountains, and do quite a bit of intensive orientation, training, and shopping before setting off for the mountains, in the next day or two. It’s fine if you want to arrive earlier. Below are the dates we require you to arrive in Kathmandu (of course its no problem to arrive earlier).
o Everest: 30 March.
o Lhotse: 30 March.
o Lhakpa-Ri/North-Col & ABC Everest Tibet Treks: 30 March or
o Everest Glacier School: 30 March or 1 May.
o Everest Base Camp Trek (and optional Island Peak): 30 March,
or 1 May.
o Cho Oyu: 22 April. back to top
11) Please don’t plan on leaving before the last day of our itinerary. We need you to stay until the last day of the expedition. Below I have noted the dates for your return flight home at the end of each expedition. Of course its fine if you want to stay on after the expedition ends and there are lots of fun things to do in Nepal like wild game viewing safaris, rafting, visit lakeside in Pokhara, etcetera.
o Everest: 6 June.
o Lhotse: 6 June.
o Lhakpa-Ri and North-Col: 26 April or 26 May.
o ABC Everest Tibet Trek: 18 April or 18 May.
o Everest Glacier School: 20 April or 22 May.
o Everest Base Camp Trek: 16 April or 18 May.
o Island Peak: 20 April or 22 May.
o Cho Oyu: 29 May. back to top
A beautiful sunrise cresting over the summit of Everest (Tunc Findik). A view of the famous second step on the north side of Mt. Everest (Franck Pitula).
12) Shopping in KTM. Our planned schedule allows plenty of time for equipment shopping in Kathmandu, where there are so many shops that you will find almost everything you need, except good high-altitude mittens and gloves. Here is a partial list for those desiring to contact Nepalese shops and manufacturers:
For hardwear like boots, crampons, ice-axes and harnesses, go to the Everest Summitters shop in Thamel. Email: firstname.lastname@example.org , phone: (9771) 4219404, 4468775.
For soft goods like down jackets trousers and suits, we have used two shops:
A. Shona's Shop in Thamel: e-mail: email@example.com , phone: 4265120
B. Everest Hardwear shop in Thamel. e-mail firstname.lastname@example.org , tel 4230399, mobile (977)98510 45706
Note: Down suit orders in Kathmandu will require 2 weeks notice due to power cuts. Please contact a manufacturer as soon as possible. back to top
13) Storing excess baggage and personal possessions - valuables in KTM. We provide secure facilities in Kathmandu in which to store your extra personal items such as luggage, extra money, credit cards, passports (those people going to Tibet need their passports), jewelry, expensive watches, etcetera. These facilities are kept locked and are extremely safe.
14) Depart KTM for the mountain. After completing our orientation session and receiving permits, we plan to depart Kathmandu the following day.
H. Equipment and supplies for walking and climbing:
16) Buy your mattress in KTM. Regarding mattresses, above basecamp, we do not recommend anything you have to inflate. These "therma-rest" are unreliable with all of the sharp iceaxes, crampons, and rocks that we will encounter. I never saw one not puncture when used above basecamp. These are a liability and dangerous. Please don’t depend on an inflatable matt above basecamp. Several traditional closed cell foam non-inflatable karimat mattresses are preferred. I like to bring 3 or 4 mattresses as they are inexpensive and I want to sleep warmly and comfortably at night. These are available very inexpensively in Kathmandu, so there is no need to bring any from home. Why fly around the world with a kit/duffel bag filled with foam? Our planned schedule allows plenty of time for equipment shopping in Kathmandu.
17) Climbers and walkers-bring or buy duvet-down jacket. Trekkers and climbers, please be sure you have a duvet/down jacket. Fairly good quality down/duvet gear is available in Kathmandu inexpensively and is a crucial part of your equipment. Everest, Lhotse, Cho-Oyu and Shishapangma climbers will, in addition, need a duvet/down jacket with an insulated hood and duvet/down trousers as well. Or, many 8000 metre / 26,000 foot climbers prefer a down/duvet suit. We recommend you advance order your Kathmandu down/duvet clothing so you know it's available. Due to power cuts, 2 weeks advanced notice is necessary. back to top
18) Food during the expedition - bring your own snack food. All basecamp and walk meals and high meals (3 per day) are included in our full-service expeditions. We provide more than enough food and cooking fuel for three meals per day on the high mountain. However, we ask each climbing member to provide their own daily-snacks and freeze dried meals at high altitude while climbing above basecamp. We do not provide any daily snack energy food, you need to provide your own. Please remember to bring your daily snack-energy mountain food for each day we are climbing above basecamp on the mountain. This food would consist of chocolate bars, power bars, energy gel, rehydration drinking powder, sweets, nuts, sausage, cheese, etc.. More and more items are available in Kathmandu, but choice may be limited. In November of 2009, a wide variety of imported sweeets, snacks, and chocolates were available, with quality brands such as Cadbury, Snickers, Lindt and Cafe d'Or in abundance. The prices were not bad. There were many kinds of local snacks and powerbars available, but they still do not import foreign power bars, energy gel, etcetera. We request you bring your own freeze-dried meals. No freeze-dried food is available for purchase in Kathmandu. You must bring it from home. If you like imported cheeses, tinned meats, and other specialty foods, please bring them. Here is the list of food we suggest you bring for yourself:
o Everest: 3-6 kilos - 7 to 13 pounds of snacks and at least 5 freeze-dried dinners;
o Lhotse: 3-6 kilos - 7 to 13 pounds of snacks and at least 5 freeze-dried dinners;
o Lhakpa Ri/North Col: 2-4 kilos - 4 to 8 pounds of snacks and at least 2 freeze-dried dinners;
o Cho Oyu: 2-5 kilos - 4 to 10 pounds of snacks and at least 3 freeze-dried dinners;
o Shishapangma: 2-5 kilos - 4 to 10 pounds of snacks and at least 3 freeze-dried dinners;
o Everest Glacier School: 1-2 kilos - 2 to 4 pounds of snacks;
o Everest Basecamp: 1-2 kilos - 2 to 4 pounds of snacks;
o Island Peak: 500 grams - 1 pound of snacks; back to top
19) Boots and shoes for your climb - walk. Regarding shoes, please wear the following:
o Everest: "One-Sport Everest Millet" boots high on the mountain and sturdy-lightweight leather boots for walking to camp ABC.
o Lhotse: "One-Sport Everest Millet" boots high on the mountain and sturdy- lightweight leather boots for walking to camp 1.
o Lhakpa Ri/North Col: Plastic double boots or "One-Sport Everest Millet" boots. Sturdy- lightweight leather boots for walking to camp ABC.
o Cho Oyu: "One-Sport Everest Millet" boots high on the mountain and sturdy- lightweight leather boots for walkking to camp 1.
o Shishapangma: "One-Sport Everest Millet" boots high on the mountain and sturdy- lightweight leather boots for walking to ABC.
o Everest Glacier School: Sturdy climbing boots that are made for crampons, in addition to comfortable lightweight walking shoes with good ankle support that are water repellant and well “broken-in”.
o Everest Basecamp: Comfortable lightweight walking shoes with good ankle support that are water repellant and well “broken-in”. There is no snow on our walk.
o Island Peak: Sturdy climbing boots that are made for crampons, in addition to comfortable lightweight walking shoes with good ankle support that are water repellant and well “broken-in”.
Please note: Members who have tried to wear leather or single boots to the summit of our 7000 metre / 23,000 foot plus climbing peaks have suffered frostbite. Not recommended, and, in fact, for 7000 metre / 23,000 foot plus climbing peaks we may disqualify you from the trip if you are planning to climb in only leather or single boots. Frostbite is not an option on our expeditions.
Good shoes and all types of climbing boots are available for purchase and hire inexpensively in Kathmandu. Our planned schedule allows plenty of time for equipment shopping in Kathmandu. Let us know your size and we are glad to check for you! back to top
20) Tipping your leaders, sherpas, and staff. Regarding gratuities (tips). Our leaders, sherpas, and staff are among the best, because we can count on receiving gratuities for a job well done at the end of each expedition. You will be impressed when you see just how hard we do work. It is a matter of pride for all of us. Besides individual tips, we also ask you to pay an additional “group” tip and we will "pool" these tips together and then, as a group, we will vote on the distribution of the gratuities to the individual staff. This method has seemed to be the fairest and has worked very well in the past. In addition there will be a high-altitude bonus. We recommend the following tip:
o Everest Group Tip: $250
o Lhotse Group Tip: $250
o Lhakpa Ri/North Col: $100
o Cho Oyu: $250
o Everest Glacier School: $125
o Everest Basecamp Treks: $75
o Island Peak: $125 back to top
Expect to pay the above tip no matter what. On our peak climbs, for a group Sherpa (Tibetan or Nepalese), who helps you to climb above the high camp or up to the summit and back down, expect to pay a summit-attempt bonus as follows:
o Everest Summit Attempt Bonus: $400, Summit Success: $700.
o Lhotse Summit Attempt Bonus: $400, Summit Success: $700.
o Cho Oyu Summit Attempt Bonus: $200, Summit Success: $400.
o Baruntse Summit Attempt Bonus: $100, Summit Success: $200.
o Ama Dablam Summit Attempt Bonus: $100, Summit Success: $200.
The above amount of money may be split between climbers who were in the summit party. If you have a personal Sherpa, your tip will be at least 30% more. We request you to bring this money with you to basecamp in cash, and be ready to pay it there, as many of our staff are local and will not be returning to Kathmandu with us. Traveler’s cheques and credit cards may be of use in Kathmandu, but they will not work in basecamp. back to top
21) Bring gifts for sherpas and staff. Regarding other gifts you may wish to provide, please bring as many as possible. These equipment donations are quite important to our staff and their families as they are often handed down to needy relatives and Sherpas who are learning to climb and need some assistance. Most, if not all sherpas got their start on "hand-me-down" kit.
Do you have extra mountain equipment, clothing, and shoes/boots? Older equipment, shoes, and clothing are fine. We encourage you to bring any extras for our staff. Please remember that Sherpa people come in all sizes (from extra small to extra large), and would appreciate any rucksacks, old harnesses, helmets, ice-axes, old ice and rock gear, warm clothing, goretex and fleece, pile, down, and duvet clothing, windproof clothing, and any kind of out-of-door shoes and boots, including walking, climbing, running, etc.. Children’s and Women’s clothing is also needed. Thanks for helping and being so very thoughtful. v
22) Telephone. We plan to have access to mobile and satellite telephone on walk and in basecamp. Those wishing to use our sets are required to post a $100 deposit, prior to departure from Kathmandu. The cost is $4 per minute. Incoming calls are not possible. If your usage exceeds the deposit amount, you will be required to pay more cash in basecamp, or stop using the phone. Be sure to bring enough $, £, or €. While unable to receive telephone calls, at times members can receive short text/SMS for $4 a message from their friends and family.
23) Website where your friends, family, and colleagues, can read about your expedition. There will be a website where your family, friends, colleagues, and sponsors can watch the progress of our climbS and walkS. This website is a public service from SummitClimb.com. Once reaching the site please go to “recent news” and you will see the dispatches from your expedition. We have traditionally asked all members to become involved and to write or phone "dispatches" or reports about the progress of our expedition. However, these dispatches are only to be about your impressions of our climb and are strictly for public viewing. Please don’t confuse them with personal phone calls to family, loved ones, friends and colleagues at home. back to top
24) Battery charging: laptop, ipod, mp3 player, and/or digital camera. On our climbs, we bring a solar charging system on the expedition that members have access to. As long as there is sun, we are able to charge batteries easily on the mountain. Be sure to bring your wall charger compatible to Kathmandu’s 220 volt current (when its working). If possible, please bring an automotive 12 volt charger for your laptop, digital cameras, ipod, and mp3 players, as you can plug it straight into our solar system. We encourage you to bring your own smaller solar panel, as these seem to work very well.
Computer, ipod, mp3, camera note: Laptops work well up to about 4000 metres/13,000 feet. Altitude can destroy or wipe hard drives bigger than 7 - 10 GB above this altitude, or hard drives that have a moving disk. There are several options out on the market for laptops with non moving hard drives that work well in altitude. Some early ipod and mp3 players have this problem as well. Check to make sure your ipod does not have a moving drive, especially before you turn it on above 4000 metres/13,000 feet. We have had several instances where these were wiped or crashed. Digital cameras work well. We recommend that you keep them in your jacket during the day and in your sleeping bag at night. back to top
25) Bring warm mittens. Special warm high-altitude mittens are necessary for all of our climbs, Island Peakhttp://outdoorresearch.com/home/style/home/handtools/gloves/ascent/71870 . You won't need to wear any liner gloves inside these mitts (they already have their own integral liner) so fit is very important. This company ships around the world. Be sure to discuss the size of your hand and what size mitt you might need with the person at the shop. Sometimes our members from other countries have them sent to our US office address and US team members bring them over to the mountain directly for the person. If you decide to pursue that option, please allow plenty of time. Thanks! and higher. Please don't frostbite your hands. As of this writing, Kathmandu does not have very good mitts and gloves, but that is certain to change. I prefer mittens to gloves, as mittens are so much warmer. If you are in London, try visiting a snow and rock shop and trying some on. Here is a link to one of the better mittens I have seen so far:
26) Bring or buy a figure 8. Climbers, please be sure to bring a "figure 8" for rappelling/abseiling. Modern rock climbing descenders ie: "atc’s" do not work on fixed line, and are a liability because they slow you and the team down considerably. It is hard for some people to believe until they witness this personally, but we are asking you to believe it now. Please go out and purchase a figure 8. You may also purchase a figure 8 in Kathmandu. back to top
27) Bring spoon and cup. Please remember to bring your own personal cup and spoon for altitude. Bring it from home or purchase it in Kathmandu.
28) Group vs personal sherpas. Our climbing sherpas carry group equipment. They will not be carrying your personal equipment. Each year, at least one of our team members decides to hire their own personal sherpa. In 2008 on Everest 7 of our members hired personal sherpas and they all summitted. We encourage you to do so, especially if you are not excited about climbing with a rucksack which is loaded with your personal equipment, oxygen, water, and snack food. We now encourage members who need a bit of extra assistance to use our "equipment carry service”. The cost will be 1/4 (not including the tip, which you must also pay) and includes carriage of ten kilos of your personal equipment up and down to and from basecamp to the highest camps. For more information, please visit our Sherpa link on the Leader tab of each website . By the way, hiring your own personal sherpa has been shown to markedly increase summit success and safety, especially on descent. back to top
29) Everest, Cho Oyu, and Lhotse oxygen. On Everest and Lhotse, you must have oxygen available. About half of our Cho Oyu and Shishapangma team members use oxygen. Cho Oyu is not like Everest where Oxygen is absolutely necessary, but many Cho-Oyu climbers prefer it because it gives them a little extra edge of "insurance" that they will be feeling as well as possible when resting in the high camp and on summit day. In addition, supplemental oxygen usage has been shown to markedly reduce the incidence of frostbite. Our Sherpas will try to help you carry the oxygen, and 5 four-litre bottles of oxygen (or more) are recommended for Everest and Lhotse and 3 four-litre bottles should be more than enough (2 might suffice) for Cho Oyu, and you also need the mask, hoses, and regulator. Or, you can have the full set of five bottles plus mask-regulator-hoses. We 100% guarantee all of our bottles and oxygen systems, and test them thoroughly with the mask/hose/regulator set-up. We have our own oxygen analysis instrumentation, and we are able to certify the contents are 100% oxygen. Additionally, we are able to measure the volume of contents in the bottle. Our bottles/masks/hoses/regulators are 100 percent guaranteed and reliable. We always have spare parts and back up bottles, masks, regulators, and hoses. We have a 40% "buy-back" policy on unused oxygen, and masks, hoses, and regulators in good condition, so its like you are renting the oxygen and equipment. back to top
Here are the costs:
o A. Cho Oyu: 3 bottle set: $1950 (40% buy-back policy applies).
o B. Everest and Lhotse: 5 bottle set: $2850 (40% buy-back policy applies).
If purchased separately:
o C. Mask + Hoses (guaranteed to be in perfect working order and match the bottles and regulator perfectly): $280 (40% buy-back policy applies).
o D. Regulator for high-altitude oxygen bottle (guaranteed to be in perfect working order and match the bottle and mask and hoses perfectly): We have a 40% buy-back policy on regulators in good condition. $410 (40% buy-back policy applies).
o E. One large Russian Oxygen 4 litre bottle for high-altitude climbing (guaranteed to be in perfect working order and match the regulator and mask and hoses perfectly): $510 (40% buy-back policy applies).
In an effort to reduce environmental pollution and encourage reuse and recycling, we now offer a $60 cash bonus for each empty oxygen cylinder you bring down to basecamp/abc in working condition. back to top
30) Please consider donating supplies, clothing, funds, building materials, solar equipment, etcetera, as well as your own time and efforts to the Mount Everest Foundation for Sustainable Development in Nepal and Tibet. Your donation will be used wisely by the Foundation which exists to help poor farmers help themselves. These families live in Nepal and Tibet near Everest, but far from the tourist trail where life is very primitive, making Nepal the 12th poorest country in the world and the poorest country in all Asia. The foundation builds schools and hospitals and protects fragile environments. Please see what we have been doing with recent donations at www.ServiceTrekNews.org . We encourage you to become involved and we conduct service treks and volunteer projects you might wish to join.
Thank you so much for all of your kind compassion and wonderful help to the people of Nepal and Tibet!!! back to top
31) What have we forgotten? Please express yourself now, and communicate all of your thoughts, questions, and ideas. It is very important that we build another top team this year by working together, beginning today. We always enjoy discussing our favorite subject: MOUNTAINS. Also, this kind of conversation may help us to understand one another's expectations.
32) Let us begin climbing and walkking. We are looking forward to further discussion, to meeting, to climbing and walking together, and to seeing you feeling well on the trek, in basecamp, the upper camps, on the summit, and on the way back down.
Thank you very much, Cheers for now and we look forward to climbing with you soon, Yours Sincerely, from Dan Mazur and all of us at SummitClimb.com . back to top
Ps. Thanks for telling all of your friends about what we are trying to do.
High Altitude Regards-Dan Mazur
find me on facebook, plaxo, linkedin, twitter
skype: SummitClimb or SummitTrek
+44 (0)7810375400 (evenings are best)
184 Bishop Road, Bristol, BS7 8NB, England
POB 123, Lakebay, Wa, 98349
Ps. Congratulations, you made it to the bottom of this newsletter. You must have the patience and perseverance necessary to become a team member of www.SummitClimb.com and www.SummitTrek.com . back to top