The Future and History of Mount Everest is Now

The Future and History of Mount Everest is Now

These photos were taken on our recent successful Everest Training Climb expedition where we put members and sherpas all the way to camp 3 on the Lhotse Face and the team returned home safely. Photos in Lhotse slideshow: Fabrice Imparato, Bruce Manning, Samuli Mansikka, Elselien te Hennepe, Richard Pattison & Tunc Findik. For caption information on these photos, please visit our Everest Training Climb photo gallery .
 DRAGON YEAR: The Future and History of Mount Everest is Now: Climbs,Walks & Training Climbs Spring 2012

Calling all men and women of all ages from around the world who love wild places. Happy Tibetan Chinese Dragon Lunar New Year, celebrated across the Himalaya in Nepal, Tibet, and China during this 'Year of the Dragon'.

In the spirit of the Dragon, I hope this newsletter will open the door to 2012 for you. May you find the Dragon in the Himalaya, and perhaps inside YOURSELF AND OTHERS.

ARE YOU A DRAGON? The year of the Dragon is the luckiest in the 12 Year Tibetan Chinese Zodiac. Dragons are free spirits. Dragons are beautiful, colourful, and flamboyant; free to explore, uninhibited by stress or fear. Dragons are energetic, gifted, vivacious, focused, motivated, and persistent. Everything Dragons do is on a grand scale - big ideas, lofty and sometimes even extreme ambitions. However, a Dragon's behavior is innate and isn't meant for show. Dragons are confident, accept challenge, and are often successful ;~}

Closeup of a massive ice serac with Mount Lhotse seen behind. Dingboche village with Lhotse south face above. Island Peak appears on right side of photo. team in Everest basecamp. Trekkers walk up Kala Patar view ridge. Mount Pumori in background (Miyako Mori). 

Please feel free to dive into this newsletter's focus on the history and future of Everest from both sides: the northern Tibetan side and the southern Nepalese side. READ DOWN as we delve deep into the story of Everest's surrounding sister peaks, such as Lhotse, the North Col, Lhakpa Ri, and Lobuche and WATCH OUT for our next newsletter in a week where we describe some fun and accomplishable peaks to ski and snowboard, such as Mustagata, Cho Oyu, Mera Peak, as well as fun treks in the surrounding areas. STAY TUNED for our next project: the 8000 metre / 26,000 foot peaks and how to climb their summits and walk to their basecamps. We are going to get serious about discussing summer plans and autumn projects. REMEMBER OUR ONGOING QUEST FOR THE 7 SUMMITS. back to top

By way of introduction, my name is Dan Mazur, working for SummitClimb and SummitTrek. I welcome you to join me and friends, old and new, starting in just two months on 8 April and running through May, as I lead my 9th Everest expedition, in Tibet and Nepal, with a friendly group of men and women of all ages from around the world. Lets get together for climbs to the summit, training climbs to prepare you for Everest and fun "medium sized" and smaller peaks. Come on with me and friends for peaceful, beautiful, easy and exhilirating walks to the basecamp and stunning nearby viewpoints, and service projects to give back to local families with health care, education, cultural and environmental preservation.

Please visit me on facebook at and I hope you can find it in your heart to 'LIKE' me :-) . I am also available on the phone, email, skype, and social media every day to speak about mountains, OUR FAVOURITE SUBJECT. Please ring, email, or message me now for a chat. I am waiting to speak to you on +44 (0)7810375400 (landline) in the UK or +1 360-250-3407 mobile-cell/text-sms in the US, , , Skype: Dan.Mazur8848 , Twitter: @DanielMazur , . Oh, yes, do you have a website and would you like to exchange links between your site and ours? I welcome you to join our outdoor and climbing community on: . back to top



Camp 3 and surround views on Everest Tibet. Members heading for the summit (Arnold Coster).

COMMISSIONS FOR SENDING US NEW MEMBERS: Please tell your friends and receive a cash commission for everyone you send us. back to top

MOUNTAIN CLUBS, ROCK CLIMBING GYMS, ADVENTURE OUTFITTERS, OUTDOOR/CLIMBING SHOPS, SCHOOLS, CHURCHES, AND CHARITIES / NON-PROFITS. We now offer an additional reward fee for every member you send us. We will pay the referring organisation a 5% cash commision.

Our trips feature the best western leaders, helpful sherpas, good equipment, delicious food, comfortable camps, satellite phones, email, and websites where you can watch the daily progress of each of our teams (please take a look at ). Our offerings vary in length from 5 days to 60 days and costs start at "no-charge" for the Cascade Glacier School to a few hundred dollars, euros, or pounds for a basecamp walk or trekking peak to a full-on big-time Everest Expedition with all of the trimmings. We offer ways to dovetail different expeditions and treks together, so you can take on your goals in sensible steps to explore the ever unfolding world of mountain adventure.

RIGHT NOW at SummitClimb and SummitTrek in the new 'Year of the Dragon' our teams of men and women of all ages are currently climbing and walking amongst the big peaks. Please go to to learn more. Our Kilimanjaro team is out in Africa with senior leader Arnold Coster, who has lead 5 Everest expeditions, 2 Lhotse, 3 Cho Oyu, 2 Mustagata, 2 Baruntse and 1 Shishapangma expedition. Arnold is married to Maya Sherpa, one of the most famous women climbers in the Himalaya (Kilimanjaro is the highest peak in Africa, one of the famous 7 summits and great preparation for Aconcagua, Everest Training Climbs, etcetera). We also have a team on with Max Kausch, our Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, and Shishapangma leader (Aconcagua is the highest peak in South America, one of the fabled 7 summits, and great preparation for Everest). Our hardworking company manager Stewart Wolfe went to India and Nepal for 2 months and is now back feeling refreshed and excited to book our members for the coming Everest season, while also enjoying some pristine skiing in our local hills. The French Alps are having the snowiest winter ever, just in time for our free - no charge Alps Meet and it's been crystal clear in town with bluebird skies, while dumping fresh powder in the surrounding mountains where we have a short drive to enjoy some of the most accessible skiing and boarding. What a way to kick off the year!!! back to top


Putting on our crampons at the crampon point on the way up to Lobuche Peak (Dan Mazur). Team roped together for glacier travel at 5650 metres on Lobuche East (Dan Mazur). 


Mount Everest is the earth's highest mountain at 8848 metres/29,029 feet above sea level. The international boundary between Nepal and Tibet runs across the precise summit point. Its massif includes the neighbouring peaks of Lhotse (world's 4th highest mountain), Nuptse and Changtse, as well as many fun smaller 'trekking peaks' and easy basecamp walks which I'll discuss more about below. back to top

The Nepal and Tibet season begins in early April through June, then again in September through December. These seasons have the best weather and life is quiet, peaceful, and friendly out in the Himalaya.

1ST OF ALL...WHY DO WE CLIMB EVEREST? The best and most famous answer to this question came from George Mallory of the UK, who headed the first attempts on Everest from the Tibet side in the early 20s. He replied when asked, "because it is there." Though this could be applied to any mountain, cutting to the heart of the matter, Everest is quite special and considered one of the greatest challenges one can attempt on this planet, during this life.

EVEREST HISTORY: As a bit of background, in 1856, the Great Trigonometric Survey of British India established the first published height of Everest, then known as Peak XV, at 8840 metres/29,002 feet. Everest was given its official English name by the Royal Geographical Society upon a recommendation by Andrew Waugh, the British Surveyor General of India. Mr. Waugh named the mountain after his predecessor, Sir George Everest. Mount Everest is also known by the Tibetan name Chomolangma ('Goddess Mother of the Snows'), and by the Nepali name Sagarmatha ('Mother of the Universe'). back to top

The first seven attempts on Everest approached the mountain from Tibet, where a route to the summit via the North Col and North Ridge seemed possible. All were apparently unsuccessful. George Mallory, who spearheaded the first three expeditions, lost his life with Andrew Irvine during the 1924 attempt. On the morning of June 8th, 1924, Mallory and his climbing partner Irvine left the highest camp on Everest bound for the summit. At 1 p.m. they were seen climbing  the mountain behind schedule, but still making progress towards the top. After that, they disappeared into clouds and were never seen again. In 1999, a team of investigators located Mallory's body on the north face of Everest around 8000 metres / 27,000 feet. There has been almost a century of debate over whether Mallory and Irvine made it to the top, and the quest for Sandy Irvine and his camera, which could contain the pair's summit photos, occupy a special spot in many a high-altitude explorer's imagination.

Unsuccessful Everest attempts continued through 1938, then halted during World War II. By the war's end Tibet had closed its borders. Nepal, which had been previously inaccessible did the opposite.

Starting in 1951, expeditions from Nepal ended closer and closer to the summit via the Khumbu Icefall, the Western Cwm, over the Geneva Spur, to the South Col, and up the Southeast Ridge. In 1953 Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit and the rest is history.

Since the first successful ascent in 1953 many climbers from around the world have climbed to the top of our planet's highest point. Thousands have made it to the top, while hundreds have passed away attempting an ambitious and personal dream.

There are so many great books and documentaries out there about the subject of Everest I couldn't even begin to list them all. If you would like some recommendations, I'm happy to provide some further reads and videos that I have enjoyed for you to study more on the history of Everest and past expeditions. So please send me a message and join in the discussion. Thanks! back to top



Tents lined up in camp 1 of Everest Nepal (Stew Edge). Closeup of camp 2 on Everest Nepal seen from above (looking down from camp 3). The top of the Khumbu icefall can just be seen on the upper right (Alex Holt). Clockwise from upper right - Pasang, Jangbu, Mitch and Lhakpa Nuru on the summit (Stew Edge). Climbers working their way through a steep section on the Lhotse face. Note the wind blowing down the face (Alex Holt). 

EVEREST EXPEDITION ROUTES - NORTH VS. SOUTH: Regarding the routes on Everest, the two most popular are the Nepal (South Col) and Tibet (North Ridge). back to top

The North, Tibetan side is generally considered colder, as it sees less sun, whereas the South, Nepalese side can get decently warm when the sun is out. It’s a major consideration for some, especially those more susceptible to getting cold in their extremities. The North has a higher basecamp at 6400 metres/ 20,000 feet called 'ABC' (advanced basecamp), as opposed to the South, which is at 5000 metres/17,400 feet.

The route itself is considered easier on the North side up to camp 4, where you sleep before summit day, but above camp 4 there are three technical sections (known as the First, Second, and Third Steps). On the South the route gets a bit more involved early on inside the notorious Khumbu Icefall, and has a technical section on summit day called the Hillary Step.

Then there’s the location of the highest camp before the summit. On the North side it’s at 8300 metres, which is the highest regularly used high camp on earth! On the south side the high camp is a little lower at 8000 metres, where you still need to sleep on oxygen. That means that you have 850 metres to climb to the summit from the South, and only 550 metres from the North.

Another consideration is the terifying Khumbu Ice Fall on the South, where you have to cross large and deep crevasses via ladders strapped together end to end. It is the most dangerous part of the ascent via either side, and it’s for this reason alone that some people choose to climb from the North. The problem is that the ice fall is continuously moving, and while navigating through it there are chances that pieces will break off, fall onto climbers or break ladders essential for crossing crevasses, obliterating sections of trail and ripping out the fixed ropes. back to top

The Nepal side can be quite a crowded circus of climbers from all over the world outnumbering the teams in Tibet up to 3 to 1 per person in basecamp. Tibet is much less crowded than Nepal, with a very spread out basecamp where they may be a kilometre or half mile between different teams, making quite a difference in climbing styles, and overall ambience of the route, approach, basecamp, etcetera.

One last difference is price. The Northern Tibetan route is generally cheaper. This is because of logistics and getting people and supplies to base camp is done all by car. On the Southern Nepalese side, people and supplies are first flown from Kathmandu to Lukla, then people hike and supplies are taken by Yak to base camp. For example, SummitClimb's , at $27,450, is 25% cheaper than SummitClimb's at $35,450. By the way, both expeditions are full service with all permits, western leaders, sherpas, equipment, hotels, food, comfortable basecamp, satellite phones, email, oxygen and domestic flights included. back to top


Alex traversing the steep Lhotse Face (Stew Edge). Camp 1 with Lingtren, Cho Oyu, and Khumbutse in the background (Squash Falconer). Aalex, Squash, and Jangbu heading into the icefall at night (Stew Edge). Camp 2 after a blizzard (Stew Edge). 

KATHMANDU - BEGINNING A VISIT TO NEPAL OR TIBET: Everest walks, training climbs, and expeditions begin in the ancient and colourful city of Kathmandu, where your SummitTrek and SummitClimb staff will personally meet your flight at Tribhuvan airport. Kathmandu has superb mountain equipment and clothing shopping with more than 100 new and used outdoor / climbing shops with great prices. Don’t miss a bit of sight seeing in Kathmandu, a beautiful exotic Hindu and Buddhist city with an abundance of ancient temples. If this is your first visit, we strongly suggest you tour the temples, including the Monkey Temple, atop a small mountain above the Vishnu Mathi river and the Thamel neighborhood, the Pashupatinath Temple, where the cremations are conducted along the Bagmathi River, Boudhanath , an enourmous white massive stupa first built in 600 AD that you can walk around, absolving a lifetime's sin, and finish at the Kathmandu Durbar or King's Square, where the 400 year old Kathmandu capital was situated. back to top

NEIGHBOURING PEAKS - FUN TRAINING CLIMBS AND WALKS: In regards to peaks on or near Everest there are several very enjoyable, accomplishable, affordable and interesting summits that can be a great way to test oneself at high altitude for all skill levels.

THE NORTH COL: Along the route to the summit of Everest in Tibet is the North Col at 7000 metres/23,000 feet high. It is a spectacular location with incredible views and is situated between Mount Changtse and the summit of Everest, directly on the main climbing route for Everest from Tibet. The North Col is the location for camp 1 on a high snow ridge above advanced basecamp. The actual climbing on this fun trekking peak could be best described as steep walking/climbing, with climbers attached to fixed ropes and it runs in conjunction with the exciting spring Everest climbing season. Ascending may be the easiest way in the world to reach 7000 metres / 23,000 feet.

LHAKPA RI: Right next to Everest is the neighbouring mountain of Lhakpa Ri (also known as Xang Dong Feng) at 7045 metres/23,000 feet. It is a fun and 'easy' spectacular trekking peak, which divides the upper East Rongbuk glacier and upper Kharta glacier. Lhakpa Ri is close enough to Everest to feel the enourmous power and character of the world's highest mountain, but is set far enough back to appreciate the true beauty of this great peak. The summit view from Lhakpa Ri rivals that from many of the world's highest mountains. Amongst the highlights are the north faces of Makalu and Pethangtse, the Kangshung (east) face of Everest and the magnificent east face of Lhotse. There is an unrivalled view of the north east ridge of Everest, the North Col, Changtse, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma. You also have a chance to grasp the immensity of the Tibetan plateau as you can see hundreds of miles across the expansive and endless landscape. back to top


Stew shows off the Starlight Flag. Fulfilling dreams for children with terminal illness (Squash Falconer). Squash falconer abseiling in the infamous yellow band on Everest (Stew Edge).

EVEREST TRAINING CLIMBS: On the Tibet (north) side of Everest, the North Col and Lhakpa Ri are often referred to as the , where one can enjoy the vast beauty of the Tibetan plateau and the best views of Everest from anywhere on the planet for 28 days, and then head back to Kathmandu for the return flight home, or, nowadays, if one feels well enough, one can easily transition to or even  and carry on for the summit. back to top

The same is true for the Nepal side. During the 31 day , we trek into base, acclimatize slowly and cautiously through the Khumbu icefall and Western Cwm, and then carefully move our way up the mountain all the way to camp 3 at 7300 metres / 23,000 feet. Many members will choose to go back home at this point, but some will choose to continue to the summit and join the .

LHOTSE: Lhotse is the 4th highest mountain in the world, and lies on the shoulder of Everest at 8516 metres/27,940 feet. The route follows the Everest route up to camp 3. The climb is an exciting mixture of snow and ice with a wee bit of rock up high. Lhotse is sometimes mistakenly identified as the south peak of the Everest massif. No serious attention was turned to climbing Lhotse until after Everest had finally been ascended. Lhotse was first climbed in 1956 as an alternative route to the summit of Everest by Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger (Swiss team). In addition to the main summit there are two subsidiary peaks, Lhotse Shar, which is immediately east of the main summit, and Nuptse, a high peak on the mountain's west ridge. The great thing about Lhotse is you climb most of the Everest route for a much cheaper price. For example, SummitClimb's , at $14,850 is 60% cheaper than SummitClimb's at $35,450. By the way, both expeditions are full service with all permits, western leaders, sherpas, equipment, hotels, food, comfortable basecamp, satellite phones, email, oxygen and domestic flights included. Lhotse is considered a bit easier than Everest (there is no tricky "Hillary Step" to navigate), but has some fun and challenging technical sections you can't find on Everest. As Lhotse is very uncrowded, and you will never see more than a few people on her upper slopes, the icing on the cake when climbing Lhotse has to be seeing the Everest circus from a bird's eye view at but a fraction of the cost. back to top


Reaching camp 3 (Dan Mazur). In camp 3, summit behind (Dan Mazur). Team leaving camp 1 for the final summit push (Mark Delstanche). Team on their way up the 2nd Step (David O'Brien).

LOBUCHE EAST: Lobuche (also spelled Lobuje) is a Nepalese mountain which lies close to the Khumbu Glacier at 6119 metres / 20,075 feet. There are two main peaks, Lobuche Far East and Lobuche East (often mistaken for Lobuche West which is a separate mountain further west). The first recorded ascent of Lobuche East was made by Laurence Nielson and Sherpa Ang Gyalzen on April 25, 1984. It is a beautiful place to learn, practice your skills and to take an up-close look at the high peaks of the Himalaya, including Everest, the famous south face of Lhotse, Makalu and the north side of Ama Dablam. We refer to this as the or . The latter name is due to the training course we run for several days each spring and autumn on the vast and rolling Cho La Glacier. The "Cho La" lies at the base of Lobuche, providing an ideal training ground to practice easy snow and ice climbing and beginner glacier travel and rope training. After the class, rest for a few days in gorgeous grassy and uncrowded Lobuche basecamp, then try for the top of easy "trekking peak" Lobuche. back to top

KALA PATAR: Kala Patar is located just above the small village of Gorak Shep at 5545 metres/18,200 feet. It is a windy path up grassy, rocky slopes to reach the top of this high ridge, known as a trekker's perfect spot to watch a golden sunset on the Everest massif, including Nuptse and Lhotse. It was from here that Eric Shipton helped to choose the first ascent route on Mt Everest, which Tenzing and Hillary climbed in 1953. The mountain behind Kala Patar has an interesting story: Mallory wanted to name a peak after his young daughter. In the Sherpa and Tibetan languages, "Pumo" means girl, and "Ri" means mountain. So Mallory chose to name it Pumori. According to David Padwa of the Alpine Club, the peak was named during the first Everest reconnaissance in 1921.


North col camp in foreground. Background-slope to camp 2, then full route to c3-summit ridge. Look closely and see a line of 50 sherpas on the snow slope (Dan Mazur). Elizabeth with Tibetan family at the teahouses below basecamp (Dan Mazur). Frank, David and Torbjorn realxing in the teahouse (Dan Mazur).

BASECAMP WALKS AND CULTURAL TOURS: Both basecamp walks to Everest are fun and exciting, although vastly different, like visiting two entirely opposite planets. back to top

EVEREST TIBET BASECAMP - GETTING THERE: The drive from Kathmandu, into Tibet and finally to basecamp is a relaxing and interesting adventure. There are several stops in medieval looking towns with dirt streets and stays in local "hotels" and eating in local "restaurants". It is a very exotic taste of Tibetan culture (see it now before it entirely disappears), while stopping to rest and acclimate, and walk in the beautiful surrounding hills to adjust slowly and carefully to the rising altitude. The drive offers a scenic chance to encounter the vast Tibetan plateau and view the Himalayan giants of Shishapangma, Cho Oyu, Menlungtse, Ghauri Shankar, and of course Everest in all of her majesty. There is no better view in the world of Everest than from . The view on the Tibet side is much better than anything you will see in Nepal. The road to Tibet BC ends at "Chinese base camp"; located just near the ancient and active Rongbuk Monastery, where one can visit the monks and high llama (these same Buddhist clerics will perform a blessing ceremony for our expedition in basecamp).

The walk to advanced basecamp is a trek of stark beauty to the base of the highest peak in the world. This trek is very accomplishable by the average person who enjoys walking. In fact the walking distance to Tibet Advanced Basecamp is much less than the walking distance to Nepal Everest Basecamp! The trails in Tibet are generally good and normally one never steps on snow and there is no climbing, only walking on moraine paths made by yak caravans. From basecamp one can trek up the amazing Rongbuk Glacier, also known as the "Golden Highway", where there are gorgeous views of stunning peaks in the area, including Lakpa-Ri and all of its "Little Sisters", as well as Changtse and of course Everest. At 6400 metres / 21,000 feet, Advanced Basecamp (ABC) must be the highest basecamp in the world, and it is hard to believe that yaks can walk around up here, with their jingling yak bells around their necks and big fluffy fur coats.

Everest National Park Tibet: The park is situated among rolling, vast green (in May-June) short-grass and boulder strewn valleys leading up to the base of the mountain. The environment is beautiful and stark, inhabited with wild birds and animals. Upon reaching basecamp, you trek towards the mountain, where the vegetation changes to become more alpine and rocky, with the mountain looming upwards and the best views of Mt. Everest possible from this altitude, better than those in Nepal. Plants in the park range from spruce, pine, a wide variety of evergreen trees, as well as coldbelt grasslands. Many precious animals inhabit Tibet, such as wolves, bear, lamergeiers, antelope, deer, fox, gazelles, yaks, and many species of birds. back to top

 Climbing up to camp 2 with the North Col in the background (Dan Mazur).

EVEREST NEPAL BASECAMP - GETTING THERE: This is one of the most famous treks in the world with ancient snow-free paths winding past green terraced villages, rushing streams crossed on swinging bridges and each night a comfortable 'teahouse' which is kind of a "bed and breakfast" in a quiet pasture beneath the highest peaks in the world. The trek can be moderately paced, allowing plenty of time for acclimatization, rest and site-seeing. is a great opportunity to retrace the classic "Everest Approach March" made by Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa. The trek winds through some of the most spectacular mountain scenery on earth, where one can relax in exotic, friendly Sherpa villages. Trusty yaks and porters can carry all of your baggage, so one doesn't have to carry a heavy rucksack. back to top

Most teams stop at the tiny hamlet beneath Everest: "Gorak Shep". Using Gorak Shep as a basecamp (it was also Hillary's) one has the opportunity to spend an entire day walking up to the modern-day Everest basecamp at the foot of the deadly Khumbu Icefall, where all of the big Everest expeditions now go. The following day one can walk up to the ridge top known as "Kala Patar" for fabulous views of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and on and on.

Everest National Park Nepal: The park covers an area of 1148 square kilometres in the Khumbu region of Nepal. This includes Mt. Everest and several other well known peaks such as Lhotse, Pumori, Island Peak, and Ama Dablam. Mt. Everest and the surrounding area is a 'world biosphere reserve'. Since 1976 the park has served to safeguard unique cultural, physical and scientific values through sound conservation principles. Vegetation in the park varies from oak, pine and hemlock forests at lower altitudes to fir, juniper, birch and rhododendron groves at mid-elevations. Scrub and alpine plant communities with bare rock and glacier are found above the tree line. 22 species of rhododendron bloom during the spring (April and May) and much of the flora is colourful throughout the year. Wild animals most likely to be seen in the park are Himalayan tahr, goral, serow, musk deer, snow pheasants, and well over 100 different bird species. back to top

 ABC seen from slightly above. Large camp eh (Dan Mazur)?


Dale says:  "I just want to say "thanks" for organizing this expedition. I was able to achieve my childhood dream/goal of reaching the summit of Mt. Everest, and SummitClimb was a big factor in that dream becoming a reality."

Ms. Soon Keng says: "An unforgettable trek for me: great guides, great porters, great trail mates. What more could one ask for? I'll be back."

Rob says: "Your good relationship with the Chinese government allowed for us to get into Tibet earlier than any other international expedition. SummitClimb provided an excellent expedition leader. I think the food was fresh and really good, considering how difficult it is to get supplies up the mountain. Having our own tents in base camp and ABC was also a bonus."

Ms. Wanda says: "My concern about any problems in Nepal I heard about before the trip were non-existent in the areas we traveled. We did not witness any such disturbance. Traveling as a single female, I am probably a little more cautious than most but I have to say that never once did I feel concerned about my safety."

Alan says: "I had a very good experience on this unforgettable expedition. The trip was well organized and I liked the leader. He was full of energy and humour."

Blake says: "I was lucky to have chosen SummitClimb. Being in Nepal I realized what an amazing operation you guys run and how respected the leaders are.  I was proud to have been a part of this year’s expedition and look forward to many more in the future. The leadership, organization and professionalism from everyone involved were great. Every problem was addressed immediately by the guides and solved seamlessly. The leaders were amazing and the porters they hired were first rate. Top notch work guys!"

Bruce says: "I thought the expedition worked well and it was another good group of people you put together. I look forward to climbing together again and seeing you next time."

Ms. Elselien says: "I think a good thing about this trip is having a trek included with the expedition. People really like having that look into the 'expedition world' but usually may not want the uncomfortable/cold suffering part themselves. They mostly like a night or two/three of camping but prefer (definitely higher up) the lodges. Another good thing is that this trip is being organized by very experienced people who know how things work in Nepal and can offer solutions to unexpected problems. Trekkers usually feel that this trip is relaxed and the leaders are being flexible when and where they can. This gives everyone a feeling of being more part of the team because their questions and opinion are being heard. I really like the fact that it is fairly easy to achieve a high altitude while trekking the original Everest route from the 1920-1953 Everest expeditions." back to top

Fiko at 7200 metres on acclimatisation walk to the top of the snow slope above North col (Peter Kinloch). Pasang Sherpa and Janet taking a break at 7200 metres on the snow slope to camp 2 (Dan Mazur). Laval St Germain after returning to the North col from 8300 metres. Good job (Dan Mazur)! North col camp after a snowy night of May 6-7 (Dan Mazur).

GIVING BACK TO THOSE IN NEED: If you are interested in the charity and service side, please get involved via donating clothing, books, shoes, climbing equipment, medical supplies and/or funds to the to support and work together with local families living near Everest with hospitals, schools, environmental, and cultural preservation. If you feel the need to get your hands dirty and help, dig in with our twice yearly and . Right now we are working on some exciting restoration, building upgrade, greenhouse, water supply and sanitation projects at the Pema Choling Buddhist women’s convent, also known as the Deboche Nunnery, where 10 impoverished nuns live in an ancient convent. This is the Nepal's oldest convent, and just near to Everest. A SPECIAL TREK SETS OFF TO DEBOCHE NUNNERY FOR EXPLORATION AND MEDITATION ON 25 MARCH, 2012. PLEASE PHONE OR EMAIL TO BECOME INVOLVED. On Everest we are also busily working with a team of engineers to design a new biogas project to treat the waste from Everest Basecamp and produce sustainable cooking gas and useful farm fertilizer. This project will have a wide ranging impact not just in the Khumbu Valley, but in high altitude mountain environments everywhere. Please let us know how you would like to become part of the team!

OUR CLIMBS AND WALKS ARE LISTED BELOW and feature the best most experienced American, British, European, and Australian leaders who teach you everything you need to know, top notch trained and highly qualified sherpas, delicious food, comfortable camps, excellent equipment, individual tents for all members in basecamp, radios, satphones, satellite email, oxygen, etcetera. Our prices are for full-service, including everything imaginable from door to door, from KTM-basecamp-summit, and back. We also list prices for "basic" climbs, a stripped down version of the trip to help our frugal friends save your pennies.

"BASIC CLIMBERS" - We have lowered our costs! If you are on a budget please contact me and read below for the best discount possible on all of our climbs, walks and training climbs. back to top


Varughese Joe, Belinda, and Ang Sange relax on the summit of Lobuche under a clear sky with great views of Everest (Bill Dwyer).

EVEREST TIBET SUMMIT EXPEDITION 2012: - Basic Cost: $9,950, £6,350, €7,650. Full Service Cost: $27,450, £16,850, €19,850. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE SUMMIT CLIMB AND THE WALK/DRIVE TO BASECAMP: FREE OXYGEN, FREE SHERPAS, AND FREE HOTELS. Please join me, Dan Mazur, 9 time Everest leader, for an exciting and affordable 60 day expedition in April and May. ***2011 expedition 100% summit success, 8 out of 8 on the summit. View the latest news at: . Exotic and less crowded Tibet, with the best views of Everest in the world. Made famous in 1928 by Mallory and Irvine. By the way, we have an office in Lhasa and ALWAYS obtain our Tibet permits. back to top

EVEREST NEPAL SUMMIT EXPEDITION 2O12: - Basic Cost: $14,950, £9,450, €11,450. Full Service Cost: $35,450, £21,950, €25,750. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE SUMMITCLIMB AND THE WALK TO BASECAMP: FREE OXYGEN, FREE SHERPAS, FREE HOTELS, AND FREE INTERNAL FLIGHTS. Friendly leader Arnold Coster has 5 Everest expeditions and is one of the best in the business. 60 days in April and May at a very low price. ***2011 expedition summit success, 5 out of 6 on the summit. View the latest news at: . The classic climb on Everest, following in the footsteps of Hillary and Tenzing.

EVEREST TIBET TRAINING CLIMB AND NORTH COL 2012: and - Full Service Cost $7850, £4850, €5650. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE CLIMB AND THE WALK/DRIVE TO BASECAMP WITH FREE SHERPAS AND FREE HOTELS. Please join me, Dan Mazur, 9 time Everest leader, for an exciting and affordable 28 day expedition in April or May, and a great chance to learn all about climbing, see how you feel at altitude, visit exotic Tibet, and if you are feeling well, transition to Everest and Cho Oyu AT NO EXTRA COST. View the latest news at: . Climb very high in exotic Tibet in a short period of time at an excellent price. Exotic and less crowded Tibet, with the best views of Everest in the world. Made famous in 1928 by Mallory and Irvine. By the way, we have an office in Lhasa and ALWAYS obtain our Tibet permits. Leader Dan Mazur and our friendly expert Sherpas teach you everything you need to know. Get Qualified for Everest, and climb to the summit of Everest on the spot if you feel well.

EVEREST NEPAL CAMP 3 TRAINING CLIMB: - Full Service Cost $8650, £5350, €6250. Sixteen day option: $6350, £3850, €4350. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE CLIMB AND THE WALK TO BASECAMP: FREE SHERPAS, FREE HOTELS, AND FREE INTERNAL FLIGHTS. Friendly leader Arnold Coster, has 5 Everest expeditions and is one of the best in the business. 31 days, or 16 days school only, in April or May, and an affordable way to learn all about climbing, see how you feel at altitude, visit beautiful Nepal, and if you are feeling well, transition to Everest AT NO EXTRA COST. ***2011 expedition 100% summit success. View the latest news at: . The classic climb on Everest, following in the footsteps of Hillary and Tenzing. Leader Arnold and our friendly expert Sherpas teach you everything you need to know. Get Qualified for Everest, and climb to the summit on the spot if you feel well.

EVEREST GLACIER SCHOOL: - REDUCED PRICE: $2950 £1850 €2150,  Seven day option: $1450, £950, €1050. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE CLIMB AND THE WALK TO BASECAMP: FREE SHERPAS, FREE HOTELS, AND FREE INTERNAL FLIGHTS. Friendly leader Ang Sange Sherpa, has led 14 Glacier Schools, and is an excellent instructor and a very friendly person, and teaches everything you need to know. 22 days (or 7 days for the school and climb only) during April, May, or October. If you feel well enough on the April trip you can transition directly to the Everest Nepal Training Climb or Cho Oyu. ***2011 expedition 100% summit success! View the latest news at: . AWARDED NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC'S "25 BEST NEW TRIPS". back to top

Alex Holt on the summit of Lhotse. Everest behind (Alex Holt). At the fork in the road. Left takes you to Everest South Col and right takes you to Lhotse high camp (Gavin Vickers). Climbers in the Lhotse couloir looking up toward the summit (Alex Holt).

EVEREST TIBET ADVANCED BASECAMP WALK: - Full Service Cost: $3,550, £2,250, €2,750. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE DRIVE ACROSS TIBET AND WALK UP TO ADVANCED BASECAMP: FREE SHERPAS AND FREE HOTELS. Please join me, Dan Mazur, 9 time Everest leader, for an exciting and affordable 20 day walk in April or May, and a good chance to see exotic Tibet. View the latest news at: . Rustic, Medieval and Less crowded Tibet, with the best views of Everest in the world, much better than in Nepal. Made famous in 1928 by Mallory and Irvine. ***Everyone reached basecamp during our recent trek. By the way, we have an office in Lhasa and ALWAYS obtain our Tibet permits. back to top

EVEREST NEPAL BASECAMP WALK: - Full Service Cost: $1850, £1150, €1450. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE WALK TO BASECAMP: FREE SHERPAS, FREE DOMESTIC FLIGHTS, AND FREE HOTELS. Friendly leader Arnold Coster, has 5 Everest expeditions and is one of the best in the business. 18 days in April, May or October. Wander gentle and wide snow-free trails through beautiful green terraced villages with amazing Himalayan views. Includes top-notch sherpas, delicious food, high-quality tents and excellent equipment. Visit our world's most famous basecamp and hike the Everest view ridge of Kala Patar. Follow in the footsteps of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Sherpa who made the first ascent of Everest. ***Everyone reached basecamp during our recent trek. View the latest news at: .

LHOTSE CLIMB, 4TH HIGHEST IN THE WORLD, CLIMBED FROM THE SAME ROUTE AS EVEREST: Basic Climb Cost: $4,150, £2,650, €3,150. Full Service Cost: $14,850, £9,250, €10,750. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE SUMMITCLIMB AND THE WALK TO BASECAMP: FREE OXYGEN, FREE SHERPAS, FREE HOTELS, AND FREE INTERNAL FLIGHTS. 60 days in April-May. Climb the fourth highest peak in the world from the same route as our Everest Nepal Expedition. 5 time Everest summitter and experienced Lhotse leader Arnold Coster is friendly, helpful, well organized, and teaches you everything you need to know. Branch off the Everest route just before high camp and ascend the infamous Lhotse Couloir to the summit. A brilliant way to check out Everest up close and climb a high and challenging summit for reduced cost. ***2011 expedition 100% summit success! View the latest news at: .

EVEREST BASECAMP SERVICE TREK: - Donation: $2850, £1850, €2150 (your contribution for the trek and your international flight are gift aid tax eligible). PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING YOU NEED FOR YOUR TREK, INCLUDING FREE SHERPAS, FREE HOTELS, AND FREE DOMESTIC FLIGHTS. 22 days in April and October. Support trek with the Mount Everest Foundation for Sustainable Development (MEFSD) to the Pema Choling Buddhist women’s convent, also known as the Deboche Nunnery, where 12 impoverished nuns live in an ancient convent. After visiting and helping, walk to Everest Base Camp and the famous Everest viewing ridge of Kala Pattar. Leader Ang Sange Sherpa, 15 Everest Basecamp Treks. ***During our recent trek, members helped to install a greenhouse and water line.

WHO ARE THESE TRIPS FOR?: We encourage men and women from around the world, of all ages to join us as an individual team member or with your own group, whether that is your spouse, partner, friends, sibling, clients, colleagues, etc. Most of our members join as individuals, our team dynamics work well, and we are able to build successful and safe groups of people that enjoy trekking, climbing, and traveling together.

NOW IS THE TIME: Please indicate your 2012 interests very soon as we are currently gathering applications and putting our member's names on permits down at the mountaineering and trekking ministry at the government offices in Nepal and Tibet.


WELL ORGANISED, GOOD VALUE and EXCELLENT TRACK RECORD: When comparing options please carefully check what is on offer and prior performance. I have worked for many different companies during my climbing career, and I feel that SummitClimb and SummitTrek offer the best organisation, very good value for money, and unmatched summit success. For example, all of their expeditions put members on the summit (and all of their treks, walks and training climbs reached their objectives) during 2011.

ARE YOU FEELING CHALLENGED BY THE ECONOMY? We are a company run by climbers and walkers for climbers and walkers. We operate our trips as efficiently as possible. If our prices seem low, this is because we are now in our 21st year of leading climbs and treks with friendly and fun groups of men and women of all ages from around the world. We have developed deep connections with the mountaineering and trekking sectors in Nepal and Tibet. It is our objective to continue offering affordable, safe, friendly, enjoyable, and successful climbing expeditions and walks.

GENEROUS DISCOUNTS are now on offer for groups of 2 or more, "BASIC CLIMBERS", mountain guides, leaders in training, returning members, medical professionals, educators, etcetera.

PAYMENT NEWS: *Special Notice* - Worried about making full payment? Charge 100% of your expedition to your credit card. Earn valuable points and pay off the balance gradually over time. Please visit back to top

 Belinda, Joe and Varughese stand in front of Lhotse on our acclimatization hike (Bill Dwyer).

INEXPENSIVE PLANE TICKETS ARE STILL EASY TO FIND: Please email or telephone me and I will gladly assist you in locating these. back to top

"HELP WANTED" : Are you a mountain guide or would you like to become one? Please join the fun and earn a big discount at our .

I hope you have enjoyed our Everest newsletter. WATCH OUT for our next newsletter in a week where we describe some fun and accomplishable peaks to ski and snowboard, such as Mustagata, Cho Oyu, Mera Peak, as well as fun treks in the surrounding areas. STAY TUNED for our next project: the 8000 metre peaks and how to climb their summits and walk their basecamps. We will get serious about discussing summer plans and autumn projects. Don’t forget our ongoing QUEST FOR THE 7 SUMMITS.

Thanks for reading, and I would like to speak to you further about our favourite topic: MOUNTAINS. Please email, facebook, skype, or telephone me at your earliest opportunity. In case I am out walking and climbing when you ring, do leave a clear message with your name, email address, and phone number, best time to ring back, etcetera.


Welcome to Our Team and Best Mountain Regards.

Thank you very much. Yours Sincerely,

  • -Dan Mazur
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  • Skype: Dan.Mazur8848
  • Phone UK: +44 (0)7810375400
  • Phone USA: 1-360-570-0715
  • In case I am not in, please leave me a clear phone message with name, message, number, and best day and time to return your call.
  • Address UK: 184 Bishop Road, Bristol, BS7 8NB, England
  • Address USA: POB 123, Lakebay, WA, 98349, USA


Pps. Do you have a website and would you like to exchange links between your site and ours? I welcome you to join us on: .

Ppps. Congratulations, you made it to the bottom of this email. You must have the patience and perseverance needed to be a climber, walker, leader in training or project volunteer! Prize: FREE OF COST, NO CHARGE. Say you saw it here! back to top