60 Day Alert: Climb & Walk 8000 Metre - 26,000 Foot Peaks

60 Day Alert: Climb & Walk 8000 Metre - 26,000 Foot Peaks

Photos in slideshow: Fabrice Imparato, Dan Mazur, Joanna Goodson, Ken Stalter, Ryan Waters, Bruce Manning, & Tunc Findik.
60 Day Alert: Climb & Walk 8000 Metre - 26,000 Foot Peaks
Greetings Fellow Adventurer

How are you and what have you been up to during January and the opening of February? Are you preparing for the mountains by staying fit, walking and climbing in your local hills, not working too hard and relaxing with family, friends and colleagues?

Yesterday I returned from our exciting free of cost, no charge Winter Glacier School, where we "gave back" to the mountaineering community and had good success with a very fun group of men and women of all ages and abilities from around the world. Together we enjoyed sparkling superb snow and glaciers via snow walking, camping, ice climbing, snow shoeing, racquetting, and skiing. A brilliant time was had by all!

Today I checked the calendar and discovered we have reached the 60 day limit for our spring trips. It's hard to believe that our 2013 season kicks off in just eight short weeks, but, there is still time to join our team if you hurry. There are great people signed up already for all of our spring trips with room for only a few more. If you will be with us as a summit climber, camp 3 trainer, or a basecamp walker in April and May, we need to put your name on the mountain permit now, so please get in touch with me via telephone, email, skype, facebook and other social media. Back to Top

I am waiting to speak to you on
on +44 (0)7810375400 in the UK or +1 360-570-0715 in the US, email: DanielMazur@SummitClimb.com , Skype: dan.mazur8848 , www.FaceBook.com/DanielLeeMazur . You can find more of my contact details below. Thank you.
(Team on their way up the 2nd Step (David O'Brien).  Amazing photo of Ama Dablam taken outside of Namche (Liam Suckling).Liz 
For your interest, this informational newsletter focuses on the high altitude Himalayan mountain climbing summit routes. Please read down to the section below, which begins with: "WHAT IS AN 8000 METRE PEAK?" and "FAMOUS 8000 METRE CLIMBERS" to learn about fascinating historic people who first travelled those paths to the basecamp, the higher camps and to the summit of Everest and the highest mountains around Everest, like Lhotse, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma. These mountains are known collectively as the "8000 metre peaks", 26,000 feet high. Join us as we explore what it means to be an 8000 metre peak enthusiast and then join me in basecamp and on the summit together this year. Welcome to our team!

Our company is run by and for climbers and in addition to sharing our dreams of climbing to the highest summits in the world, and how to train for such lofty goals, we also are big fans of walking and trekking to the basecamps of these mountains, so PLEASE READ DOWN FURTHER IN THIS NEWSLETTER AND READ OUR WELCOME TO WALKERS IN ADDITION TO CLIMBERS.
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Leader spots from below while a team member climbs the final headwall to the summit and Jangbu, chief sherpa, gives a thumbs up. Members on the summit of Mera Peak with Everest and Lhotse behind.

I hope all is well? What have you been up to? I have been busy working daily in our office on permits for the upcoming spring Everest summit, training climb, and basecamp walking season in Nepal and Tibet. I have been making time to get out into the mountains with our fellow SummitClimb employees and friends, new and old. The last few weeks have brought a deep and thick layer of snow, so we are on the lookout for avalanches. How about you?

My name is Dan Mazur, and I work for Summit Climb and Summit Trek, now in their 22nd year of summit climbing, camp 3 training, and walking to basecamp of our world's highest mountains. I am writing to you just 8 weeks before boarding a plane to peaceful and sunny Nepal where I will lead my 10th Everest expedition on our world's highest peak, made famous by Tenzing Sherpa and Sir Edmund Hillary in 1953 with their first ascent on the South Col route. In addition to leading our team of men and women of all ages to the summit of Everest, I am really looking forward to fun training climbs and walks with you to 7000 metres/23,000 feet on the west face of Everest, and the world's most famous Basecamp, with stunning views of Everest and her surrounding peaks.

What are you planning for this year? I invite you and your friends to join me and our team. Please read this newsletter to picture yourself joining me for a walk to basecamp, training to a mid-level camp and climbing to the summit of one our planet’s 14 stunningly massive 8000 metre / 26,000 foot high peaks, jutting out along the spine of the Himalaya Range and most sought after for a rare experience and the finest views by mountaineers, trekkers, and nature enthusiasts alike.

ACONCAGUA NEWS UPDATE - Our February team of men and women of all ages are in Argentina in position to summit this week. Please check out all of the latest news at
www.AconcaguaSummitClimbNews.com (scroll down the SummitClimb news page) to view updates as our team attempts the highest peak in all of the Americas and one of the fabled "7 Summits".

Team on the summit of Mt Bonete (Max Kausch). Our team along the trek to basecamp (Max Kausch).
WINTER CLIMBING SCHOOL NEWS UPDATE- I have just returned from leading our new FREE of cost, no charge winter climbing school last week, where together with leader Stewart Wolfe and a fun group of men and women of all ages, we learned about ice and snow, winter climbing, camping, avalanche safety and winter rescue techniques. A fun time was had by all preparing for the spring climbing season on Everest as we conducted technical training and had fun in the snow this winter. Please go to www.WinterClimbingSchool.org to see recent images, video clips and descriptions of our experience.  Back to Top

stewart wolfe and dan mazur Every mountaineer's challenge - Jaime Herriot and Ari Karchin practice 'flaking' the rope

Stewart wolfe and Dan Mazur. Every mountaineer's challenge - Jaime Herriot and Ari Karchin practice 'flaking' the rope.

EVEREST SPRING SEASON NEWSLFLASH: Our Everest expeditions (www.NepalEverestExpedition.com and www.TibetEverestExpedition.com ), fun training climbs, glacier schools, and walks are going ahead as planned this spring. We still have 60 days to add just a few people to the permits, which are nearly full, so please be in touch right away!!! Please email or ring me now if you are interested in joining our fun teams of men and women of all ages from around the world. Back to Top
The famous Hillary Step . (Sange Sherpa))
The famous Hillary Step . (Sange Sherpa). (photo right by Tunc Findik: Cloud plumes roll off the north face of Everest. You can see the daunting west ridge on the right hand skyline leading up to the face. ABC is in the center and just over the gravel moraine from where this picture was taken)
ELBRUS SUMMER 7-SUMMIT FUN - INTRODUCTORY LOW PRICE: Get ready for a big new SummitClimb trip this summer for just 11 days in July and August: Mount Elbrus, one of the world's most famous 7-Summits and the highest peak in Europe. This very easy snow walk is just 5500 metres / 18,000 feet high and very accomplishable in only eleven days. Expert expedition leader Dan Mazur will be on hand to lead, teach and ensure you have a great trip. Please tell all of your friends about our new www.ElbrusSummitClimb.com . Come one, come all, inviting men and women of all ages and abilities, from around the world. SPACES ARE FILLING UP QUICKLY, so please confirm your place soon with your completed application and deposit. Please read down to see the low price and exact dates for Elbrus. Back to Top
Just below the Barrels where we make basecamp on the mountain and do our glacier training. Heading between the Barrels and high camp to acclimatize before the summit attempt (Scott Patch).
GENEROUS DISCOUNTS are now on offer for groups of 2 or more, "basic climbers", mountain guides, leaders in training, returning members, medical professionals, educators, etcetera.

PAYMENT NEWS: If you wish to delay payment, please feel free to charge 100% of your expedition to your credit card. Earn valuable points and pay off the balance gradually over time. Please visit
www.SummitClimbPayment.com .

Please email or telephone me and I will gladly assist you in locating these.

Interested in the charity and service side of mountain adventure? Please check out: http://www.summitclimb.com/new/default.asp?vid=948&linktype=m&mtype=smenu . Please get involved via donating to the Mount Everest Foundation at www.WaysYouCanHelp.org to support and work together with local families living near Everest with hospitals, schools, environmental and cultural preservation. DO MORE and get your hands dirty and help dig in with our twice yearly www.EverestServiceWalk.org and www.ServiceTrek.org .
(photo right by Murari Sharma: Patale health post worker Jamyang and Dr. Lisa McClellan examine a Nepalese baby.
New Patale health post in progress, Many thanks to Erik Petersen, www.theFitBar.com , Kevin Burke, Bellerina Yeo, Barclays Capital Singapore, and Katharine Peacock (Dan Mazur). Giving out school supplies at the school in Patale. 
NEW SHERPA TRAINING SCHOOL: www.SherpaClimbingSchool.org . Working together with the Mount Everest Foundation for Sustainable Development (MEFSD), we need new and used good-quality climbing and walking equipment and clothing, as well as funds for office expense. The MEFSD is building a new school for training 30 aspiring young sherpas, both men and women. Safety, technique, communication, education, health, environmental and cultural preservation and economic opportunities will be the goals for this new training course so that we can provide education, training and help local people in Nepal to earn a good living from sustainable tourism in their beautiful country for many years to come. Back to Top

Gyelje Sherpa fixing rope in the lower part of the grey tower. Checkout camp two on top of the yellow tower in the lower left. photo by Maaike Braat Jangbu Sherpa fixing rope on the Summit Ridge of Mount Baruntse. Photo Markus

Gyelje Sherpa fixing rope in the lower part of the grey tower. Checkout camp two on top of the yellow tower in the lower left. photo by Maaike Braat. Jangbu Sherpa fixing rope on the Summit Ridge of Mount Baruntse. Photo Markus

LECTURES: During February and March we will be performing our exciting Charity Fundraising Lecture Tour for the MEFSD. This year our main goal in doing the lectures is to raise funds and new and used climbing and trekking equipment and clothing for the  www.SherpaClimbingSchool.org, featuring Ms. Samantha "Squash" Falconer, the famous motorcyclist, parachutist, and Everest summiter, along with Dan Mazur, 9 time Everest Leader and rescuer of Lincoln Hall, world famous climber "Left for Dead" at the summit of Everest. For more please go to www.FundraisingLectures.org .
Samantha "Squash" Falconer (Photo Squash) . Dan on Ama Dablam, the world's most famous snow, rock & ice climb (Duane Morrison).
CLIMB, WALK, AND TRAIN ON ONE OF THE 'BIG ONES' WITH SUMMITCLIMB: This spring, summer and autumn I would like to invite you to join me for some fun climbs and walks in Nepal and Tibet on the world's highest mountains, like Everest, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Lhotse as well as other trips across, Nepal, Tibet, China, Africa, and Argentina. Before I get ahead of myself... Back to Top
WHAT IS AN 8000 METRE PEAK?: The “eight-thousanders” are the 14 independent mountains on Earth that are more than 8000 metres/26,247 feet above sea level. They are all located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Nepal, Tibet, and Pakistan.

The 8000 metre mark  has become a 'magic line' that defines the world's highest peaks from everything beneath them. As of 2012, a total of 29 people have summitted all 14 peaks undisputedly.

We have been climbing 8,000 metre peaks for over 20 years, maximizing accumulated wisdom of the high Himalaya, a strong record of reaching Everest, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse and many other 8000 metre summits, along with an intimate knowledge of the Nepalese and Tibetan officials who regulate the permit system. Our trips feature the best western leaders, helpful sherpas, good equipment, delicious food, comfortable camps, satellite phones, email, and websites where you can watch the daily progress of each of our teams (please take a look at www.SummitClimbNews.com ). One of our leaders, Dan Mazur, has climbed seven different 8000 metre peaks and twelve 8000 metre peaks in total. We are hoping for another one this spring and autumn and we can celebrate together. Who else goes to 8000 metre peaks?
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A great view of the North Face of Everest. Our members approaching camp 2 at at 7500 metres/24,600 feet. photo Myles Osbourne

The first recorded attempt on an eight-thousander took place on the expedition by Albert F. Mummery, and J. Norman Collie to Nanga Parbat in the territory of Kashmir (in present day Pakistan Administered Kashmir) in 1895.

The first recorded successful ascent of an eight-thousander was by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who reached the summit of Annapurna on June 3, 1950.

The first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders was Reinhold Messner in 1986. A year later, in 1987, Jerzy Kukuczka from Poland became the second climber to accomplish this feat, climbing many in winter, by difficult routes, etcetera. By the way, Mr. Kukuczka may have been the first person to smoke a cigarette on top of all 14.

The feat was not repeated until nine years later by Swiss Erhard Loretan in 1995.
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Some of the most accomplished big peak climbers include:

Reinhold Messner is an Italian citizen from the Austrian part of Südtirol whose astonishing feats on Everest and on peaks throughout the world have earned him the status of one of the greatest climbers in history. He is renowned for making the first solo ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen and for being the first climber to ascend all fourteen "eight-thousanders"

Ms. Edurne Pasaban Lizarribar is a Basque from Spain. In 2010, she became the first woman to climb all of the fourteen 8000 metre peaks in the world.

Ms. Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, from Austria, in 2011 became the first woman to climb all 14 without supplemental oxygen.

Alan Hinkes of Newcastle, UK climbed all fourteen in 2005.

Ed Viesturs became the first American to climb all 14 eight thousand metre peaks in 2005 without the use of supplemental oxygen.

Andrew James Lock from Australia climbed all fourteen in October 2009.

Veikka Gustafsson is a Finnish mountaineer who has ascended all 14 eight-thousanders in the world without the use of supplemental oxygen.

Silvio Mondinelli (nicknamed "Gnaro"), an Italian mountaineer, who in 2007 became the 13th person to climb the 14 eight-thousanders. He is the 6th person to accomplish that feat without the use of supplementary oxygen.

Juanito Oiarzabal is a noted Spanish Basque mountaineer and has written four books on the subject. He was the sixth man to reach all 14 eight-thousander summits and the fourth in reaching them without supplementary oxygen. Currently he is trying to climb all of them a second time.

Park Young-Seok (November 2, 1963 - October 2011 on Annapurna) was a South Korean mountaineer. He was the first person in the world who completed a True Adventure Grand Slam. He climbed the world's 14 eight-thousanders, the Seven Summits, and visited both poles.

João Garcia is a leading mountaineer in Portugal. He became the 10th person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders without bottled oxygen or Sherpas.
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WHO KEEPS TRACK OF 8000 METRE PEAK SUMMITS: Elizabeth Hawley (born November 9, 1923) is a journalist and chronicler of Himalayan expeditions, and working together with Richard Salisbury, has developed the important "Himalayan Database". "Miss Hawley" traveled to Nepal in September 1960 and has never left. She is the best-known chronicler of Himalayan expeditions for over four decades and is respected by the international mountaineering community because of her complete and thorough records. Everyone who comes to Nepal to climb an 8000 metre peak must see Ms. Hawley or her excellent staff before they go home.


MOUNT EVEREST: Is the earth's highest mountain at 8848 metres/29,029 feet above sea level. The international boundary between Nepal and Tibet runs across the precise summit point. Its massif includes the neighbouring peaks of Lhotse (world's 4th highest mountain), Nuptse and Changtse, as well as many fun smaller 'trekking peaks' and easy basecamp walks which I'll discuss more about below.
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One of our members getting ready to head up the North Col. Photo Ryan Waters. (photo right by Fabrice Imparato: The Khumbu Icefall. Everest is on the right behind Nuptse, with Lhotse in the center).
EXPEDITION ROUTES - NORTH VS. SOUTH: Regarding the routes on Everest, the two most popular are the Nepal (South Col) and Tibet (North Ridge). The North, Tibetan side is generally considered colder, as it sees less sun, whereas the South, Nepalese side can get decently warm when the sun is out. It’s a major consideration for some, especially those more susceptible to getting cold in their extremities. The North has a higher basecamp at 6400 metres/ 20,000 feet called 'ABC' (advanced basecamp), as opposed to the South, which is at 5000 metres/17,400 feet. The route itself is considered easier on the North side up to camp 4, where you sleep before summit day, but above camp 4 there are three technical sections (known as the First, Second, and Third Steps). On the South the route gets a bit more involved early on inside the notorious Khumbu Icefall, and has a technical section on summit day called the Hillary Step.  Back to Top
Richie at summit of Everest. Photo Richard
Richie at summit of Everest. Photo Richard . On the summit (Mark Delstanche).
SUCCESS RATES: NEPAL (SOUTH SIDE), VS TIBET (NORTH SIDE). The average historical success rate during the last 50 years has been higher in Nepal than on the Tibet side. Holding all other things equal, you have a higher chance of summit success on the Nepal Side. Read down to see what the "other things are"

HIGH CAMP ADVANTAGE: Then there’s the location of the highest camp before the summit. On the North side it’s at 8300 metres, which is the highest regularly used high camp on earth! On the south side the high camp is a little lower at 8000 metres, where you still need to sleep on oxygen. That means that you have 850 metres to climb to the summit from the South, and only 550 metres from the North.
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(photo right by Fredrik Strang: Trekking between basecamp and interim camp, which is located at 5,800 metres/19,000 feet, and halfway to ABC).  (photo right by Ryan Waters: Climbers approaching the North Col at 6,800 metres/22,300 feet).
KHUMBU ICEFALL: Another consideration is the Khumbu Ice Fall on the South, where you have to cross large and deep crevasses via ladders strapped together end to end. The problem is that the ice fall is continuously moving, and while navigating through it there are chances that pieces will break off, fall onto climbers or break ladders essential for crossing crevasses, obliterating sections of trail and ripping out the fixed ropes. It is for this reason alone that some people choose to climb from the North.

Sherpas helping a member to cross the Khumbu Ice fall. Photo Stew. Sherpas helping a member to cross the Khumbu Ice fall. Photo Squash.

Sherpas helping a member to cross the Khumbu Ice fall. Photo Squash & Stew

CROWDS - WHICH SIDE IS MORE POPULAR: The Nepal side can be quite a crowded circus of climbers from all over the world outnumbering the teams in Tibet up to 3 to 1 per person in basecamp. Tibet is much less crowded than Nepal, with a very spread out basecamp where there may be a kilometre or half mile between different teams, making quite a difference in climbing styles, and overall ambience of the route, approach, basecamp, etcetera. Back to Top
THE BIG DIFFERENCE IS PRICE: The Northern Tibetan route is generally cheaper. This is because of logistics and getting people and supplies to base camp is done all by car, bus and truck. On the Southern Nepalese side, people and supplies are first flown from Kathmandu to Lukla, then people hike and supplies are taken by Yak to base camp. For example, SummitClimb's www.EverestTibetExpedition.com , at $27,450, is 25% cheaper than SummitClimb's www.EverestNepalExpedition.com at $35,450. By the way, both expeditions are full service with all permits, western leaders, sherpas, equipment, hotels, food, comfortable basecamp, satellite phones, email, oxygen and domestic flights included.
One of our members getting ready to head up the North Col. Photo Ryan Waters. (photo right by Fabrice Imparato: The Khumbu Icefall. Everest is on the right behind Nuptse, with Lhotse in the center).
EVEREST NEPAL SUMMIT EXPEDITION 2013: www.EverestNepalClimb.com - Basic Cost: $14,950, £9,450, €11,450. Full Service Cost: $35,450, £21,950, €25,750. Please join me, Dan Mazur, 10 time Everest leader for this classic climb to the roof of the world. 60 days in April-May and September-October at a very low price. FULL SERVICE INCLUDES ALL CLIMB AND TREK COSTS, FREE OXYGEN, INTERNAL FLIGHTS, SHERPAS, AND HOTELS. Please read down for training options. Back to Top
EVEREST TIBET SUMMIT EXPEDITION 2013: www.EverestClimb.com - Basic Cost: $9,950, £6,350, €7,650. Full Service Cost: $27,450, £16,850, €19,850. Please join friendly leader Arnold Coster who has led 6 Everest expeditions and is one of the best in the business, for an exciting and affordable 60 day expedition in April and May. FULL SERVICE INCLUDES ALL CLIMB AND TREK COSTS, FREE OXYGEN, SHERPAS, AND HOTELS. Please read down for training options.
(photo right by Fredrik Strang: Trekking between basecamp and interim camp, which is located at 5,800 metres/19,000 feet, and halfway to ABC).  (photo right by Ryan Waters: Climbers approaching the North Col at 6,800 metres/22,300 feet).
LHOTSE: Lhotse is the 4th highest mountain in the world, and lies on the shoulder of Everest at 8516 metres/27,940 feet. The route follows the Everest route up to camp 3. The climb is an exciting mixture of snow and ice with a wee bit of rock up high. Lhotse was originally identified as the south peak of the Everest massif. No serious attention was turned to climbing Lhotse until after Everest had finally been ascended. Lhotse was first climbed in 1956 as an alternative route to the summit of Everest by Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger (Swiss team). In addition to the main summit there are two subsidiary peaks, Lhotse Shar, which is immediately east of the main summit, and Nuptse, a high peak on the mountain's west ridge.

The great thing about Lhotse is you climb most of the Everest route for a much cheaper price. For example, SummitClimb's
www.LhotseExpedition.com , at $14,850 is 60% cheaper than SummitClimb's www.EverestNepalExpedition.com.com at $35,450. By the way, both expeditions are full service with all permits, western leaders, sherpas, equipment, hotels, food, comfortable basecamp, satellite phones, email, oxygen and domestic flights included. Lhotse is considered a bit easier than Everest (there is no tricky "Hillary Step" to navigate), but has some fun and challenging technical sections you can't find on Everest. As Lhotse is very uncrowded, and you will never see more than a few people on her upper slopes, the icing on the cake when climbing Lhotse has to be seeing the Everest circus from a bird's eye view at but a fraction of the cost.

www.LhotseClimb.com Basic Climb Cost: $4,150, £2,650, €3,150. Full Service Cost: $14,850, £9,250, €10,750. 60 days in April-May. Leader is 3 time Lhotse climber Dan Mazur. Please read down for training options. FULL SERVICE INCLUDES ALL CLIMB AND TREK COSTS, FREE OXYGEN, INTERNAL FLIGHTS, SHERPAS, AND HOTELS. Back to Top

(photo right by Bruce Manning: Camp 4 at 7850 metres/25,700 feet on the upper Lhotse face).  (photo above right by Dan Mazur: Members wave in the Western Cwm between camp 1 and camp 2).
CHO OYU: Cho-Oyu at 8201 metres/26,906 feet has only recently become a popular mountain to climb. It is now known to be one of the most accessible of the world’s fourteen 8,000 metre/26,500 foot mountains. This is because the ascent to the summit plateau is short and direct, with a few small technical sections, less than 6 metres/20 feet high, climbed using fixed lines. Additionally, the mountain can be easily reached by four-wheel-drive vehicle, and the trail to camp 1 at 6,400 metres/21,100 feet, is basically a steep walk on talus slopes, often done in sturdy leather trekking boots with good ankle support.

The northwest ridge opens onto the northwest face, and there is one easy 6 metre/20 foot high technical fixed ice/snow step tilted at 40-68 degrees. Camp 2 is located on a large flat plateau at 7,000 meters/23,100 feet. Above camp 2, climb another easy headwall at about 28-46 degrees to camp 3 which is located on a flat space of the northwest ridge-face at 7,450 meters/24,600 feet.

You climb through a few small-easy rock steps (4 metres/13 feet high) and mixed snow at a 28-46 degree angle to the wide summit plateau and make the long traverse to the little bump that marks the summit, at 8,201 meters/27,000 feet. You know you are on the true summit when you see the inspiring views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, and the entire Khumbu valley, as well as great views across the Tibetan plateau to Shishapangma.
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FOR MORE PLEASE GO TO www.ExpeditionChoOyu.com. Led by Scott Patch, Everest and Cho Oyu technical expert who will teach you everything you need to know. 38 days in Tibet and Nepal during April-May and September-October. NEW LOW PRICE: Full Service Cost: $12,850, £7,950, €9,750, Basic Climb Cost: $6650, £4150, €5050. 20% discount for Cho-Shish "double-header" expedition. FULL SERVICE INCLUDES ALL CLIMB AND TREK COSTS, FREE HOTEL AND FREE SHERPAS.
 Grace McDonald on the summit of Cho Oyu (Max Kausch). Max and Jangbu on the summit of Cho Oyu (Grace McDonald).

 Yaks leaving cho oyu basecamp.

  Itsvan and Kobra topping out the icefall at 6700 metres (Max Kausch). Yaks leaving cho oyu basecamp.

SHISHAPANGMA: Shisha Pangma, known in Tibetan as "the god of the grasslands", is the lowest of the world's fourteen 8000 metre peaks. It is also the only 8000-meter peak located wholly in Tibet. After an early attempt, it was first climbed in 1964 by a Tibetan-Chinese expedition and was opened to foreign climbers in 1978. The peak originally carried a Hindustani name: Gosainthan.

The route from camp 1 follows the bottom of a big glacial valley, then climbs another skiable/snowboardable "headwall" at about 30 degrees to a massive plateau where camp 2 is located, at about 6700 metres/22,000 feet.

From camp 2, we cross a large plateau before climbing a gradual slope at about 8-15 degrees. We then climb a skiable/snowboardable headwall at 28-38 degrees dotted with rocky outcroppings starting at 7100 metres/23,300 feet, until we reach camp 3 on a protected and safe rock-crowned flat buttress at 7400 metres/24,300 feet.

From the high camp, we ascend a fairly steep snow and rock ridge, past two huge gendarmes at 7600 metres/25,000 feet, and climb across snow slopes to the solid snow "knob" that tops the central summit at 8007 metres/26,262 feet. There is usually a tiny surfboard sized flat spot you can perch upon, take summit photos, and soak up the scenery. From here you are greeted by incredible views of Everest, Cho-Oyu, the Tibetan plateau, and so many kilometres of mountains that it will be difficult to absorb the sight.

www.ShishapangmaExpedition.com  38 days September-October or 15 days in October (MOUNT CHO OYU COMBINATION). Full Service Cost: $12,850, £7,950, €9,750; Basic Climb Cost: $6650, £4150, €5050. 20% discount for Cho-Shish "double-header" expedition. Optional trip to Lhasa, add $2450. 38 days in Tibet and Nepal during April-May and September-October. FULL SERVICE INCLUDES ALL CLIMB AND TREK COSTS, FREE HOTEL AND FREE SHERPAS.  Back to Top


Alejandro prepares to step onto rock-band number 2 towards the summit. Camp 2 with a storm behind. Cho Oyu on the left side, low in the clouds is Everest, second from the right, seen from Shisha Pangma summit. Shishapangma Glacier with ice pilgrims and Mount Shishapangma in all her majesty seen from the ridge at 5950 metres/19,500 feet


TRAINING CLIMBS UP TO 7000 METRES / 23,000 FEET (please read **further** down for fascinating basecamp walks and thrilling, accomplishable 6,000 metre / 20,000 foot glacier school and "trekking-peaks"):

MOUNT ELBRUS: 25 July to 4 Aug 2013 (11 days). Full Service Cost $3750, £2350, €2850. Elbrus is the highest peak in Europe and one of the fabled "7 Summits" of the world. A great way to see how you feel at high altitude in a short time for an affordable price. Join Everest leader and 7-Summit expert Dan Mazur, who will teach you everything you need to know, for a classic and 'easy' snow walking ascent on a large mountain in a short amount of time. Please contact us now if you are interested! Spaces are filling up quickly.
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EVEREST NEPAL CAMP 3 TRAINING CLIMB: www.EverestTrainingClimb.com - Full Service Cost $8650, £5350, €6250. Sixteen day option: $6350, £3850, €4350. Join 10 time Everest leader Dan Mazur, who will teach you everything you need to know, and get trained for Everest on the same classic route as our summit expedition. Checkout the awesome camp 3 on the Lhotse Face of Everest. 31 days, or 16 days school only, in April, May, September, or October, and an affordable way to learn all about climbing, see how you feel at 7000 metres / 23,000 feet, visit beautiful Nepal, and if you are feeling well, transition to Everest. Get Qualified for Everest. FULL SERVICE INCLUDES ALL CLIMB AND TREK COSTS, FREE HOTEL, INTERNAL FLIGHTS, AND SHERPAS.
Team members climbing up through the ice-fall.Photo Samuli Mansikka. Our team members approaching camp 1 above the ice-fall. Photo Tunc Findik
EVEREST TIBET TRAINING CLIMB AND NORTH COL 2012: www.EverestTibetTrainingClimb.com and www.North-Col.com - Full Service Cost: $8950, £5550, €6750. Explore the amazing camp 1 on the Tibetan shoulder of Everest. Please join Arnold Coster, 6 time Everest leader, who will teach you everything you need to know, for an exciting and affordable 28 day expedition in April or May, and a great chance to learn all about climbing, see how you feel at 7000 metres / 23,000 feet, visit exotic Tibet, and if you are feeling well, transition to Everest and Cho Oyu. Get qualified for Everest. FULL SERVICE INCLUDES ALL CLIMB AND TREK COSTS, FREE HOTEL AND SHERPAS.  Back to Top

Team member at 6900 metres on the North-col (Chang-la) face, traversing a crevassed section, on the way to camp 1 (Gordon Hopper).  A line of climbers making their way up the snow slope at 7200 metres (Gordon Hopper).
MOUNT MUSTAGATA WAS SELECTED BY NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC AS "BEST ADVENTURE DESTINATION 2012". Our leader Jon Otto, who will teach you everything you need to know, has climbed Mustagata 9 times and speaks perfect English and flawless Chinese. At 7500 metres / 24,500 feet. Mustagata is the world's 'easiest' peak of its size because the average slope angle is only 18 degrees, equivalent to a "novice" ski piste or run. Many members prefer to walk to the summit, and/or ski, snowshoe and snow racquette. Climbing Mustagata qualifies you for Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, and Shishapangma. www.MustagataExpedition.com . 15 June to 9 July 2013 and 2014. 25 days in China. Full Service Cost: $5750, £3550, €4450; Basic Climb Cost: $3150, £1950, €2450.
Our sturdy and comfortable camp 3. Members approaching the summit.  Kristine hiking out from MUSTAGATA basecamp. Jon Otto and Asu on the summit (Photos by Jon Otto)
MOUNT BARUNTSE EXPEDITION. Join 3 time Baruntse leader Arnold Coster, who will teach you everything you need to know, for NEPAL'S "EASIEST" 7000 METRE / 23,000 FOOT HIGH PEAK. Arnold loves sharing this climb with our members, as the Baruntse Expedition really is a "grand circle" climbing trip through the Everest Himalaya. www.BaruntseExpedition.com - Full Service Cost: $7,950, £4,950, €6,050. 12 October to 14 November. 34 days in Nepal. Climbing Baruntse qualifies you for Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, and Shishapangma. FULL SERVICE INCLUDES ALL CLIMB AND TREK COSTS, FREE HOTEL, INTERNAL FLIGHTS AND SHERPAS. Back to Top

Frank Seidel and Jennifer Klich crossing the Mera La. Photo by Mchael Moritz

Thorsten walking along corniced summit ridge (Dan Mazur). Frank Seidel and Jennifer Klich crossing the Mera La. Photo by Mchael Moritz.Lovely camp along the Baruntse River at Rato Oral, which means 'red cave'. Sorry, I cut the top off of Mount Chamlang in the background. (photo right by Tunc Findik: Baruntse seen from basecamp at sundown).

MOUNT AMA DABLAM, The best technical but accomplishable rock, snow and ice climb in all Asia. Climbed on good quality solid granite and fixed ropes. Join 6 time Ama Dablam leader Dan Mazur, who will teach you everything you need to know, and test yourself to 7000 metres / 23,000 feet on Asia's most famous rock, snow, and ice peak: the Matterhorn of the Himalaya, which is technical, but climbable: www.ExpeditionAmaDablam.com - NEW LOW PRICE! Full Service Cost: $5950, £3650, €4550. Basic Climb Cost: $2450, £1550, €1850. Standard dates: 10 October to 7 November (29 days in Nepal). We now offer the Ama Dablam expedition anytime during a flexible window from 10 October to 1 December. If you can't make our standard dates, no worries. You can just show up anytime you like before 1 December. Climbing Ama Dablam qualifies you for Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, and Shishapangma. FULL SERVICE INCLUDES ALL CLIMB AND TREK COSTS, FREE HOTEL, INTERNAL FLIGHTS AND SHERPAS. Back to Top


 Puja - buddhist ceremony - at Ama Dablam BC - Liam Suckling. Grace McDonald crossing a bridge on the way to Namche - Romain Hoffmann. John Shelton-Smith rock climbing at 5900m - Grace McDonald. (photo right by Dan Mazur: Sean climbing the Yellow Tower, showing the team you do not need to pull on the ropes to get to the top, on Ama Dablam)
DO YOU PREFER WALKING AMONGST THE HIGH PEAKS AND VISITING THEIR BASECAMPS (please read down a few paragraphs for our 6000 metre / 20,000 foot high mountain exploration programme):

EVEREST BASECAMP WALK NEPAL: 18 days in October, April and May. Join ten time Everest expedition leader Dan Mazur to walk on wide snow-free trails through green terraced villages perched beside rapidly flowing rivers beneath the towering snowy giants of the Himalaya to Nepal's most famous and beautiful basecamp first climbed by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Sherpa. Nepal basecamp is at 5300 metres / 17,000 feet. Cost: $1850, £1150, €1450.
View of Nuptse, Lhotse, Everest and Ama Dablam just 15 minutes walk from Namche. (Sandra Le Duc). One of the many terraced hillsides on the trek to Everest basecamp (Elselien te Hennepe).
EVEREST TIBET ADVANCED BASECAMP WALK: www.AdvancedBasecampWalk.com - Full Service Cost: $3,850, £2,350, €2,950. Please join Arnold Coster, 6 time Everest leader, for an exciting and affordable 20 day walk in April or May, and a good chance to see exotic Tibet, with the world's best views of Everest and test yourself at walking to 6400 metres / 21,000 feet. FULL SERVICE INCLUDES ALL TREK COSTS, FREE HOTEL AND SHERPAS.
Some of our sturdy yaks near basecamp. They are taking the time to wander and rest once free of the heavy loads they carry. They carry group equipment and your personal equipment all the way up to ABC, so you do not have to carry a heavy rucksack. Photo Ryan Waters. Basecamp at 5200 metres with Everest behind (Photo by David Howard).

www.EverestGlacierSchool.com - PRICE: $2950 £1850 €2150, 22 days in April, May, or October. Nepal's famous ‘easy’ 'trekking peak' at 6000 metres / 20,000 feet. Seven day option: $1450, £950, €1050. April, May, or October. FULL SERVICE INCLUDES ALL CLIMB AND TREK COSTS, FREE HOTEL, INTERNAL FLIGHTS, AND SHERPAS. Back to Top



At the summit with Everest, Lhotse, Pumori, and more - 6119m (Sean McLane). On Summit of Mount Lobuche (Sjoerd Wever). View of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Changtse, and the Khumbu Glacier from the Summit of Lobuche (Sjoerd Wever). View from the summit of Lobuche East (Max Kausch).   Approaching to summit of Mount Lobuche (Sjoerd Wever).
ISLAND PEAK, NEPAL’S MOST FAMOUS ‘EASY’ TREKKING PEAK: www.IslandPeakExpedition.com . 22 days in April, May, or October. Nepal's famous ‘easy’ 'trekking peak'. Climb to 6000 metres / 20,000 feet in just one day. Fabulous views of Lhotse south face and Makalu. Full Service Cost: $2950, £1850, €2150. Five day option: $1350. FULL SERVICE INCLUDES ALL CLIMB AND TREK COSTS, FREE HOTEL, INTERNAL FLIGHTS, AND SHERPAS.
Team member on the summit looking off towards higher peaks in the Himalaya. A member approaching the final metres towards the summit.(Valerie Hovland).
MOUNT MERA ‘TREKKING-PEAK’ CLIMB: 22 days in October. Join Himalayan expert Arnold Coster and friends for this gorgeous walk-climb of Mount Mera at 6500 metres / 21,500 feet, with some of the best views of Everest imagineable. PRICE: $2950 £1850 €2150. www.MeraPeakExpedition.com  and www.MeraPeakNews.com .  Bring your skis and snowboard if you are excited about skiing and/or boarding down this peak. FULL SERVICE INCLUDES ALL CLIMB AND TREK COSTS, FREE HOTEL, INTERNAL FLIGHTS, AND SHERPAS.


Looking up at Mera Peak from Kothey (Dan Mazur). Sorting kit in Tagnag at 4500 metres/14,800 feet during our rest day. That's Kusum Kanguru behind (Dan Mazur).
ACONCAGUA HOLIDAY CLIMB: 20 days in December, January and February 2013/2014. SPECIAL LOW PRICE. One of the famous "7-summits". A brilliant introduction to high altitude mountaineering on the highest mountain in all of the Americas. 7000 metres / 23,000 feet. Get qualified for Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, and Shishapangma. Leader Max Kausch: experienced, friendly, speaks perfect English + Spanish. PRICE: $2950 £1850 €2150. www.AconcaguaSummitClimb.com.

KILIMANJARO / MT KENYA / SAFARI: Join us for our next Africa Expedition to Kilimanjaro, Mount Kenya and Wild Game Viewing Safari in August or February 2013 AND 2014: 
www.AfricaSummitClimb.com .  Kilimanjaro, 1-9 August or 14-22 February (9 days): Cost $3150, £1950, and €2350.  Mt. Kenya trek or optional rock climb, 13-20 August or 21-28 February (8 days): Cost $2150, £1350, €1550.  Safari: Ngorongoro, Serengeti, Myanyara (3-4 days): $1150, £750, €850.

One of our team members enjoying the non-touristy and easy walk on Mt. Kenya. (photo: Felix Berg). Lion cub resting on a branch in Masai Mara national park. Photo by Jonathan Barbero. Arnold 

Arnold watching Andrew belay on the Point Peter practice climb. . Photo by Arnold Coster View on Kili from Simba Camp. Photo by Arnold Coster Photo by Jonathan Barbero.

www.RemoteNepalServiceWalk.org : 13 days June or Novemeber - Donation: $1450, £950, €1050 (100% of your contribution for the trek and your international flight are tax deductable and gift aid eligible). Join local expert Dan Mazur, to explore the rolling hills and lush green valleys, with Everest hovering in the distance. Deliver needed medicines, books, supplies, health care, teach in the schools, consult on environmental and cultural preservation projects. Price includes everything for the walk: all trek costs, free sherpas, free hotels and free internal flights. Back to Top

We take pride in offering a top notch expedition. All of our trips are led and organized by Dan Mazur, 10 time Everest climbing leader, as well as our team of British, European and American leaders who are carefully selected from only the highest qualified, friendly, very experienced expedition experts.

Our Equipment Experts are on hand to help you find the affordably priced climbing and walking equipment you need. It does not matter if you live in a country or place where good gear is hard to find. Please just let us know what you need and we will help you find it at the best prices and have it sent you and/or keep it on hand for your climb.

Our top climbing sherpas are the best in the industry, with more than 5 Everest ascents each. You will find our Sherpas to be the most friendly, technically trained, helpful, hardworking, loyal, and kind you will ever meet. All of our sherpas are technical masters and able to fix ropes and climb safely using proper climbing techniques and equipment.

Our cooks are well trained and make three delicious meals (plus snacks) each day. Our food is superb, with fresh local produce and ingredients being constantly resupplied to our team on a daily basis. The food on our expeditions is served by trained waiters and the hygiene in our dining rooms and kitchens is immaculate. We always have boiled hand washing water, soap and clean towels available to all staff and members. By the way, our team dining tents are very comfortable, insulated and well heated, with excellent tables and chairs.

We have full hot shower facilities and our members are able to take one each day. Tents are top notch, high quality 4-season tents. Each member may have their own tent in basecamp. Climbing equipment is strong, reliable and plentiful. We fix and check all our own ropes, anchors, slings, etcetera. Communications systems work well, including plentiful walkie talkie radios, satellite telephones and satellite email systems. We provide delicious high altitude food so you can eat three nutritious meals each day with plenty of hot drinks, as it is very important to stay well-nourished and hydrated at altitude.  Our oxygen systems are state of the art, and are checked carefully by the leaders prior to and during the expedition. We guarantee they will work perfectly.

Trips include high quality clean, comfortable, and luxurious Kathmandu hotels for FREE in the price of our expedition. That means two nights at the beginning of the trip and 2 nights at the end of the trip are our gift to you.

Also we include free internal flights on all of our Nepal trips.
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Our trips are popular, so if you are interested, now is the time to let us know. Please confirm your place in our rapidly filling teams for 2013 and 2014.

QUESTIONS? Before joining our team, please be sure you understand everything about the trip, so do ask lots of questions. I am here to answer any and all. I enjoy chatting about mountains, my favourite topic.

HOW TO APPLY: After all questions are answered to your (and our) satisfaction, please send your completed and signed application (email is preferable). To find the application, please go to www.SummitClimb.com or www.SummitTrek.com and in the upper right hand corner you can download it from the "Contact/Application" button. Many thanks!

I ENCOURAGE YOU TO MAKE A TEN PERCENT REFUNDABLE DOWN PAYMENT, PAY THE ENTIRE COST OF THE TRIP WITH YOUR CREDIT CARD, make a bank transfer, post a cheque, or pay cash, the choice is yours. Please visit www.SummitClimbPayment.com to learn more.

GENEROUS DISCOUNTS are now on offer for groups of 2 or more, "BASIC CLIMBERS", mountain guides, returning members, medical professionals, educators.  WE ALSO OFFER SPECIAL DISCOUNTS FOR LEADERS IN TRAINING AND MOUNTAIN GUIDES (please go to

and bringing us new members. Be sure to tell your friends about what we are trying to do, and when they sign up, we will send you cash. We call it the "finder's fee", and pay this very frequently. Its our way of saying thanks to you for recommending your friends.

We want you to be in shape for your walk or climb, so please send us an email with your training inquiry and we will forward fitness programme recommendations.

CAN'T GO IN 2013?
Please join us in 2014 & 2015, as all of the trips mentioned run each year.

Thanks for reading, and I would like to speak to you personally and at length about our favourite topic: MOUNTAINS. Please email, telephone, Skype or Facebook me at your earliest opportunity.

I look forward to chatting, meeting, and to climbing to the summit and walking to basecamp together in Nepal, Tibet, and on Elbrus. Thank you very much. Keep the Questions Coming and Welcome to Our Team and Best Mountain Regards!
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-Dan Mazur

Email: Dan@SummitClimb.com and Dan@SummitTrek.com

Web: www.SummitClimb.com and www.SummitTrek.com

Latest climbing news: www.SummitClimbNews.com

Latest walking news: www.SummitTrekNews.com  

Latest charity / non-profit news: http://www.summitclimb.com/new/default.asp?vid=948&linktype=m&mtype=smenu .

Featured Climb: www.EverestNepalClmb.com and www.ElbrusSummitClimb.com

Featured Walk: www.EverestNepalWalk.com & www.ServiceTrek.org ;







Skype: dan.mazur8848

Do you have a website and would you like to swap links: www.SummitClimbLinks.com

UK telephone: +44 (0)7810 375400 (evenings best, I may be out climbing in the day);

UK address: 30 Downfield Lodge, Downfield Road, Clifton, Bristol, BS8 2TQ, England;

US address Telephone: (+1)360-570-0715;

US Address: POB 123, Lakebay, WA, 98349;

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dan_Mazur .


Ppps. Congratulations, you made it to the bottom of this email, amazing! You must have the patience and perseverance needed to be a Himalayan, Aconcagua, and Elbrus climber, walker, and service worker!
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