60 Day Alert: Climb & Walk 8000 Metre - 26,000 Foot Peaks
60 Day Alert: Climb & Walk 8000 Metre - 26,000 Foot Peaks
How are you and what have you been up to during January and the opening of February? Are you preparing for the mountains by staying fit, walking and climbing in your local hills, not working too hard and relaxing with family, friends and colleagues?
Yesterday I returned from our exciting free of cost, no charge Winter Glacier School, where we "gave back" to the mountaineering community and had good success with a very fun group of men and women of all ages and abilities from around the world. Together we enjoyed sparkling superb snow and glaciers via snow walking, camping, ice climbing, snow shoeing, racquetting, and skiing. A brilliant time was had by all!
Today I checked the calendar and discovered we have reached the 60 day limit for our spring trips. It's hard to believe that our 2013 season kicks off in just eight short weeks, but, there is still time to join our team if you hurry. There are great people signed up already for all of our spring trips with room for only a few more. If you will be with us as a summit climber, camp 3 trainer, or a basecamp walker in April and May, we need to put your name on the mountain permit now, so please get in touch with me via telephone, email, skype, facebook and other social media. Back to Top
I am waiting to speak to you on on +44 (0)7810375400 in the UK or +1 360-570-0715 in the US, email: DanielMazur@SummitClimb.com , Skype: dan.mazur8848 , www.FaceBook.com/DanielLeeMazur . You can find more of my contact details below. Thank you.
Our company is run by and for climbers and in addition to sharing our dreams of climbing to the highest summits in the world, and how to train for such lofty goals, we also are big fans of walking and trekking to the basecamps of these mountains, so PLEASE READ DOWN FURTHER IN THIS NEWSLETTER AND READ OUR WELCOME TO WALKERS IN ADDITION TO CLIMBERS. Back to Top
Leader spots from below while a team member climbs the final headwall to the summit and Jangbu, chief sherpa, gives a thumbs up. Members on the summit of Mera Peak with Everest and Lhotse behind.
My name is Dan Mazur, and I work for Summit Climb and Summit Trek, now in their 22nd year of summit climbing, camp 3 training, and walking to basecamp of our world's highest mountains. I am writing to you just 8 weeks before boarding a plane to peaceful and sunny Nepal where I will lead my 10th Everest expedition on our world's highest peak, made famous by Tenzing Sherpa and Sir Edmund Hillary in 1953 with their first ascent on the South Col route. In addition to leading our team of men and women of all ages to the summit of Everest, I am really looking forward to fun training climbs and walks with you to 7000 metres/23,000 feet on the west face of Everest, and the world's most famous Basecamp, with stunning views of Everest and her surrounding peaks.
What are you planning for this year? I invite you and your friends to join me and our team. Please read this newsletter to picture yourself joining me for a walk to basecamp, training to a mid-level camp and climbing to the summit of one our planet’s 14 stunningly massive 8000 metre / 26,000 foot high peaks, jutting out along the spine of the Himalaya Range and most sought after for a rare experience and the finest views by mountaineers, trekkers, and nature enthusiasts alike.
ACONCAGUA NEWS UPDATE - Our February team of men and women of all ages are in Argentina in position to summit this week. Please check out all of the latest news at www.AconcaguaSummitClimbNews.com (scroll down the SummitClimb news page) to view updates as our team attempts the highest peak in all of the Americas and one of the fabled "7 Summits".
Stewart wolfe and Dan Mazur. Every mountaineer's challenge - Jaime Herriot and Ari Karchin practice 'flaking' the rope.
PAYMENT NEWS: If you wish to delay payment, please feel free to charge 100% of your expedition to your credit card. Earn valuable points and pay off the balance gradually over time. Please visit www.SummitClimbPayment.com .
INEXPENSIVE PLANE TICKETS ARE STILL EASY TO FIND: Please email or telephone me and I will gladly assist you in locating these.
CHARITY/NON-PROFIT NEWS: Interested in the charity and service side of mountain adventure? Please check out: http://www.summitclimb.com/new/default.asp?vid=948&linktype=m&mtype=smenu . Please get involved via donating to the Mount Everest Foundation at www.WaysYouCanHelp.org to support and work together with local families living near Everest with hospitals, schools, environmental and cultural preservation. DO MORE and get your hands dirty and help dig in with our twice yearly www.EverestServiceWalk.org and www.ServiceTrek.org .
New Patale health post in progress, Many thanks to Erik Petersen, www.theFitBar.com , Kevin Burke, Bellerina Yeo, Barclays Capital Singapore, and Katharine Peacock (Dan Mazur). Giving out school supplies at the school in Patale.
Gyelje Sherpa fixing rope in the lower part of the grey tower. Checkout camp two on top of the yellow tower in the lower left. photo by Maaike Braat. Jangbu Sherpa fixing rope on the Summit Ridge of Mount Baruntse. Photo Markus
The 8000 metre mark has become a 'magic line' that defines the world's highest peaks from everything beneath them. As of 2012, a total of 29 people have summitted all 14 peaks undisputedly.
We have been climbing 8,000 metre peaks for over 20 years, maximizing accumulated wisdom of the high Himalaya, a strong record of reaching Everest, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse and many other 8000 metre summits, along with an intimate knowledge of the Nepalese and Tibetan officials who regulate the permit system. Our trips feature the best western leaders, helpful sherpas, good equipment, delicious food, comfortable camps, satellite phones, email, and websites where you can watch the daily progress of each of our teams (please take a look at www.SummitClimbNews.com ). One of our leaders, Dan Mazur, has climbed seven different 8000 metre peaks and twelve 8000 metre peaks in total. We are hoping for another one this spring and autumn and we can celebrate together. Who else goes to 8000 metre peaks? Back to Top
The first recorded attempt on an eight-thousander took place on the expedition by Albert F. Mummery, and J. Norman Collie to Nanga Parbat in the territory of Kashmir (in present day Pakistan Administered Kashmir) in 1895.
The first recorded successful ascent of an eight-thousander was by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who reached the summit of Annapurna on June 3, 1950.
The first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders was Reinhold Messner in 1986. A year later, in 1987, Jerzy Kukuczka from Poland became the second climber to accomplish this feat, climbing many in winter, by difficult routes, etcetera. By the way, Mr. Kukuczka may have been the first person to smoke a cigarette on top of all 14.
The feat was not repeated until nine years later by Swiss Erhard Loretan in 1995. Back to Top
Reinhold Messner is an Italian citizen from the Austrian part of Südtirol whose astonishing feats on Everest and on peaks throughout the world have earned him the status of one of the greatest climbers in history. He is renowned for making the first solo ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen and for being the first climber to ascend all fourteen "eight-thousanders"
Ms. Edurne Pasaban Lizarribar is a Basque from Spain. In 2010, she became the first woman to climb all of the fourteen 8000 metre peaks in the world.
Ms. Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, from Austria, in 2011 became the first woman to climb all 14 without supplemental oxygen.
Alan Hinkes of Newcastle, UK climbed all fourteen in 2005.
Ed Viesturs became the first American to climb all 14 eight thousand metre peaks in 2005 without the use of supplemental oxygen.
Andrew James Lock from Australia climbed all fourteen in October 2009.
Veikka Gustafsson is a Finnish mountaineer who has ascended all 14 eight-thousanders in the world without the use of supplemental oxygen.
Silvio Mondinelli (nicknamed "Gnaro"), an Italian mountaineer, who in 2007 became the 13th person to climb the 14 eight-thousanders. He is the 6th person to accomplish that feat without the use of supplementary oxygen.
Juanito Oiarzabal is a noted Spanish Basque mountaineer and has written four books on the subject. He was the sixth man to reach all 14 eight-thousander summits and the fourth in reaching them without supplementary oxygen. Currently he is trying to climb all of them a second time.
Park Young-Seok (November 2, 1963 - October 2011 on Annapurna) was a South Korean mountaineer. He was the first person in the world who completed a True Adventure Grand Slam. He climbed the world's 14 eight-thousanders, the Seven Summits, and visited both poles.
João Garcia is a leading mountaineer in Portugal. He became the 10th person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders without bottled oxygen or Sherpas. Back to Top
CLIMBING ROUTE BETA FOR OUR 8000-ERS:
MOUNT EVEREST: Is the earth's highest mountain at 8848 metres/29,029 feet above sea level. The international boundary between Nepal and Tibet runs across the precise summit point. Its massif includes the neighbouring peaks of Lhotse (world's 4th highest mountain), Nuptse and Changtse, as well as many fun smaller 'trekking peaks' and easy basecamp walks which I'll discuss more about below. Back to Top
HIGH CAMP ADVANTAGE: Then there’s the location of the highest camp before the summit. On the North side it’s at 8300 metres, which is the highest regularly used high camp on earth! On the south side the high camp is a little lower at 8000 metres, where you still need to sleep on oxygen. That means that you have 850 metres to climb to the summit from the South, and only 550 metres from the North. Back to Top
Sherpas helping a member to cross the Khumbu Ice fall. Photo Squash & Stew
The great thing about Lhotse is you climb most of the Everest route for a much cheaper price. For example, SummitClimb's www.LhotseExpedition.com , at $14,850 is 60% cheaper than SummitClimb's www.EverestNepalExpedition.com.com at $35,450. By the way, both expeditions are full service with all permits, western leaders, sherpas, equipment, hotels, food, comfortable basecamp, satellite phones, email, oxygen and domestic flights included. Lhotse is considered a bit easier than Everest (there is no tricky "Hillary Step" to navigate), but has some fun and challenging technical sections you can't find on Everest. As Lhotse is very uncrowded, and you will never see more than a few people on her upper slopes, the icing on the cake when climbing Lhotse has to be seeing the Everest circus from a bird's eye view at but a fraction of the cost.
www.LhotseClimb.com Basic Climb Cost: $4,150, £2,650, €3,150. Full Service Cost: $14,850, £9,250, €10,750. 60 days in April-May. Leader is 3 time Lhotse climber Dan Mazur. Please read down for training options. FULL SERVICE INCLUDES ALL CLIMB AND TREK COSTS, FREE OXYGEN, INTERNAL FLIGHTS, SHERPAS, AND HOTELS. Back to Top
The northwest ridge opens onto the northwest face, and there is one easy 6 metre/20 foot high technical fixed ice/snow step tilted at 40-68 degrees. Camp 2 is located on a large flat plateau at 7,000 meters/23,100 feet. Above camp 2, climb another easy headwall at about 28-46 degrees to camp 3 which is located on a flat space of the northwest ridge-face at 7,450 meters/24,600 feet.
You climb through a few small-easy rock steps (4 metres/13 feet high) and mixed snow at a 28-46 degree angle to the wide summit plateau and make the long traverse to the little bump that marks the summit, at 8,201 meters/27,000 feet. You know you are on the true summit when you see the inspiring views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, and the entire Khumbu valley, as well as great views across the Tibetan plateau to Shishapangma. Back to Top
Itsvan and Kobra topping out the icefall at 6700 metres (Max Kausch). Yaks leaving cho oyu basecamp.
SHISHAPANGMA: Shisha Pangma, known in Tibetan as "the god of the grasslands", is the lowest of the world's fourteen 8000 metre peaks. It is also the only 8000-meter peak located wholly in Tibet. After an early attempt, it was first climbed in 1964 by a Tibetan-Chinese expedition and was opened to foreign climbers in 1978. The peak originally carried a Hindustani name: Gosainthan.
From camp 2, we cross a large plateau before climbing a gradual slope at about 8-15 degrees. We then climb a skiable/snowboardable headwall at 28-38 degrees dotted with rocky outcroppings starting at 7100 metres/23,300 feet, until we reach camp 3 on a protected and safe rock-crowned flat buttress at 7400 metres/24,300 feet.
From the high camp, we ascend a fairly steep snow and rock ridge, past two huge gendarmes at 7600 metres/25,000 feet, and climb across snow slopes to the solid snow "knob" that tops the central summit at 8007 metres/26,262 feet. There is usually a tiny surfboard sized flat spot you can perch upon, take summit photos, and soak up the scenery. From here you are greeted by incredible views of Everest, Cho-Oyu, the Tibetan plateau, and so many kilometres of mountains that it will be difficult to absorb the sight.
www.ShishapangmaExpedition.com 38 days September-October or 15 days in October (MOUNT CHO OYU COMBINATION). Full Service Cost: $12,850, £7,950, €9,750; Basic Climb Cost: $6650, £4150, €5050. 20% discount for Cho-Shish "double-header" expedition. Optional trip to Lhasa, add $2450. 38 days in Tibet and Nepal during April-May and September-October. FULL SERVICE INCLUDES ALL CLIMB AND TREK COSTS, FREE HOTEL AND FREE SHERPAS. Back to Top
Alejandro prepares to step onto rock-band number 2 towards the summit. Camp 2 with a storm behind. Cho Oyu on the left side, low in the clouds is Everest, second from the right, seen from Shisha Pangma summit. Shishapangma Glacier with ice pilgrims and Mount Shishapangma in all her majesty seen from the ridge at 5950 metres/19,500 feet
NOT READY TO CLIMB AN 8000 METRE PEAK OR JUST WANT TO DO A FUN WALK TO BASECAMP?
TRAINING CLIMBS UP TO 7000 METRES / 23,000 FEET (please read **further** down for fascinating basecamp walks and thrilling, accomplishable 6,000 metre / 20,000 foot glacier school and "trekking-peaks"):
MOUNT ELBRUS: 25 July to 4 Aug 2013 (11 days). Full Service Cost $3750, £2350, €2850. Elbrus is the highest peak in Europe and one of the fabled "7 Summits" of the world. A great way to see how you feel at high altitude in a short time for an affordable price. Join Everest leader and 7-Summit expert Dan Mazur, who will teach you everything you need to know, for a classic and 'easy' snow walking ascent on a large mountain in a short amount of time. Please contact us now if you are interested! Spaces are filling up quickly. Back to Top
Team member at 6900 metres on the North-col (Chang-la) face, traversing a crevassed section, on the way to camp 1 (Gordon Hopper). A line of climbers making their way up the snow slope at 7200 metres (Gordon Hopper).
Thorsten walking along corniced summit ridge (Dan Mazur). Frank Seidel and Jennifer Klich crossing the Mera La. Photo by Mchael Moritz.Lovely camp along the Baruntse River at Rato Oral, which means 'red cave'. Sorry, I cut the top off of Mount Chamlang in the background. (photo right by Tunc Findik: Baruntse seen from basecamp at sundown).
Puja - buddhist ceremony - at Ama Dablam BC - Liam Suckling. Grace McDonald crossing a bridge on the way to Namche - Romain Hoffmann. John Shelton-Smith rock climbing at 5900m - Grace McDonald. (photo right by Dan Mazur: Sean climbing the Yellow Tower, showing the team you do not need to pull on the ropes to get to the top, on Ama Dablam)
EVEREST BASECAMP WALK NEPAL: 18 days in October, April and May. Join ten time Everest expedition leader Dan Mazur to walk on wide snow-free trails through green terraced villages perched beside rapidly flowing rivers beneath the towering snowy giants of the Himalaya to Nepal's most famous and beautiful basecamp first climbed by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Sherpa. Nepal basecamp is at 5300 metres / 17,000 feet. Cost: $1850, £1150, €1450. www.EverestNepalWalk.com. FULL SERVICE INCLUDES ALL TREK COSTS, FREE HOTEL, INTERNAL FLIGHTS AND SHERPAS. Back to Top
EVEREST GLACIER SCHOOL: AWARDED NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC'S "25 BEST NEW TRIPS": www.EverestGlacierSchool.com - PRICE: $2950 £1850 €2150, 22 days in April, May, or October. Nepal's famous ‘easy’ 'trekking peak' at 6000 metres / 20,000 feet. Seven day option: $1450, £950, €1050. April, May, or October. FULL SERVICE INCLUDES ALL CLIMB AND TREK COSTS, FREE HOTEL, INTERNAL FLIGHTS, AND SHERPAS. Back to Top
KILIMANJARO / MT KENYA / SAFARI: Join us for our next Africa Expedition to Kilimanjaro, Mount Kenya and Wild Game Viewing Safari in August or February 2013 AND 2014: www.AfricaSummitClimb.com . Kilimanjaro, 1-9 August or 14-22 February (9 days): Cost $3150, £1950, and €2350. Mt. Kenya trek or optional rock climb, 13-20 August or 21-28 February (8 days): Cost $2150, £1350, €1550. Safari: Ngorongoro, Serengeti, Myanyara (3-4 days): $1150, £750, €850.
One of our team members enjoying the non-touristy and easy walk on Mt. Kenya. (photo: Felix Berg). Lion cub resting on a branch in Masai Mara national park. Photo by Jonathan Barbero. Arnold
www.RemoteNepalServiceWalk.org : 13 days June or Novemeber - Donation: $1450, £950, €1050 (100% of your contribution for the trek and your international flight are tax deductable and gift aid eligible). Join local expert Dan Mazur, to explore the rolling hills and lush green valleys, with Everest hovering in the distance. Deliver needed medicines, books, supplies, health care, teach in the schools, consult on environmental and cultural preservation projects. Price includes everything for the walk: all trek costs, free sherpas, free hotels and free internal flights. Back to Top
We take pride in offering a top notch expedition. All of our trips are led and organized by Dan Mazur, 10 time Everest climbing leader, as well as our team of British, European and American leaders who are carefully selected from only the highest qualified, friendly, very experienced expedition experts.
Our Equipment Experts are on hand to help you find the affordably priced climbing and walking equipment you need. It does not matter if you live in a country or place where good gear is hard to find. Please just let us know what you need and we will help you find it at the best prices and have it sent you and/or keep it on hand for your climb.
Our top climbing sherpas are the best in the industry, with more than 5 Everest ascents each. You will find our Sherpas to be the most friendly, technically trained, helpful, hardworking, loyal, and kind you will ever meet. All of our sherpas are technical masters and able to fix ropes and climb safely using proper climbing techniques and equipment.
Our cooks are well trained and make three delicious meals (plus snacks) each day. Our food is superb, with fresh local produce and ingredients being constantly resupplied to our team on a daily basis. The food on our expeditions is served by trained waiters and the hygiene in our dining rooms and kitchens is immaculate. We always have boiled hand washing water, soap and clean towels available to all staff and members. By the way, our team dining tents are very comfortable, insulated and well heated, with excellent tables and chairs.
We have full hot shower facilities and our members are able to take one each day. Tents are top notch, high quality 4-season tents. Each member may have their own tent in basecamp. Climbing equipment is strong, reliable and plentiful. We fix and check all our own ropes, anchors, slings, etcetera. Communications systems work well, including plentiful walkie talkie radios, satellite telephones and satellite email systems. We provide delicious high altitude food so you can eat three nutritious meals each day with plenty of hot drinks, as it is very important to stay well-nourished and hydrated at altitude. Our oxygen systems are state of the art, and are checked carefully by the leaders prior to and during the expedition. We guarantee they will work perfectly.
Trips include high quality clean, comfortable, and luxurious Kathmandu hotels for FREE in the price of our expedition. That means two nights at the beginning of the trip and 2 nights at the end of the trip are our gift to you.
Also we include free internal flights on all of our Nepal trips. Back to Top
Our trips are popular, so if you are interested, now is the time to let us know. Please confirm your place in our rapidly filling teams for 2013 and 2014.
QUESTIONS? Before joining our team, please be sure you understand everything about the trip, so do ask lots of questions. I am here to answer any and all. I enjoy chatting about mountains, my favourite topic.
HOW TO APPLY: After all questions are answered to your (and our) satisfaction, please send your completed and signed application (email is preferable). To find the application, please go to www.SummitClimb.com or www.SummitTrek.com and in the upper right hand corner you can download it from the "Contact/Application" button. Many thanks!
I ENCOURAGE YOU TO MAKE A TEN PERCENT REFUNDABLE DOWN PAYMENT, PAY THE ENTIRE COST OF THE TRIP WITH YOUR CREDIT CARD, make a bank transfer, post a cheque, or pay cash, the choice is yours. Please visit www.SummitClimbPayment.com to learn more.
GENEROUS DISCOUNTS are now on offer for groups of 2 or more, "BASIC CLIMBERS", mountain guides, returning members, medical professionals, educators. WE ALSO OFFER SPECIAL DISCOUNTS FOR LEADERS IN TRAINING AND MOUNTAIN GUIDES (please go to www.LeaderInTraining.com).
WE PAY YOU CASH FOR TELLING YOUR FRIENDS and bringing us new members. Be sure to tell your friends about what we are trying to do, and when they sign up, we will send you cash. We call it the "finder's fee", and pay this very frequently. Its our way of saying thanks to you for recommending your friends.
ARE YOU FIT? We want you to be in shape for your walk or climb, so please send us an email with your training inquiry and we will forward fitness programme recommendations.
CAN'T GO IN 2013? Please join us in 2014 & 2015, as all of the trips mentioned run each year.
Thanks for reading, and I would like to speak to you personally and at length about our favourite topic: MOUNTAINS. Please email, telephone, Skype or Facebook me at your earliest opportunity.
I look forward to chatting, meeting, and to climbing to the summit and walking to basecamp together in Nepal, Tibet, and on Elbrus. Thank you very much. Keep the Questions Coming and Welcome to Our Team and Best Mountain Regards! Back to Top
Latest climbing news: www.SummitClimbNews.com
Latest walking news: www.SummitTrekNews.com
Latest charity / non-profit news: http://www.summitclimb.com/new/default.asp?vid=948&linktype=m&mtype=smenu .
Do you have a website and would you like to swap links: www.SummitClimbLinks.com
UK telephone: +44 (0)7810 375400 (evenings best, I may be out climbing in the day);
UK address: 30 Downfield Lodge, Downfield Road, Clifton, Bristol, BS8 2TQ, England;
US address Telephone: (+1)360-570-0715;
US Address: POB 123, Lakebay, WA, 98349;
Ps. PLEASE BE SURE TO TELL ALL OF YOUR FRIENDS ABOUT WHAT WE ARE TRYING TO DO (WE PAY YOU A CASH COMMISSION "FINDER'S FEE" FOR SENDING US NEW MEMBERS). THANK YOU.
Ppps. Congratulations, you made it to the bottom of this email, amazing! You must have the patience and perseverance needed to be a Himalayan, Aconcagua, and Elbrus climber, walker, and service worker! Back to Top