Everest Nepal and Lhotse climbing expedition news Spring 2010

Everest Nepal and Lhotse climbing expedition news Spring 2010

(Photos in slideshow: Fabrice Imparato, Dan Mazur, Bruce Manning, Roman Giutashvili, Tunc Findik and Gennady Kopieka)
News of our recent expedition: Everest & Lhotse Climb
Spring 2010
30 March to 6 June, 2010

View our links for more information about our upcoming Everest Nepal, Lhotse and Everest Tibet expeditions. We are now accepting applications for the spring of 2011, so please join us for Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu and our treks and trekking peaks.

Dispatches: Please click one of the links below to go directly to that dispatch or just scroll down.

25 May, 2010

Team reports in live (click here to listen)

Hi, this is Raj reporting in from basecamp for the SummitClimb Everest/Lhotse expedition 2010.

All the members are down safely in basecamp now. Karsten is ready to leave basecamp for Lukla where he’ll be taking a flight to Kathmandu. Mikko has just arrived from camp 2 to basecamp. Tomorrow he’ll be leaving basecamp, trekking to Lukla and getting his flight to Kathmandu. The sherpas are still up on the mountain. They’re cleaning up the camps and there is still some work to be done. It will probably take us about 3 days to finish all of the work at basecamp before the staff leaves also.

The teams are doing great and everyone is well. Once we get back to Lukla and Kathamndu we will probably update with more news. This was Raj. Thank you. back to top


Above the balcony, heading for the summit of Everest (Richard Pattison).

24 May, 2010

More summits!

Team reports in live (click here to listen)

Hello. This is Raj calling in for the SummitClimb Everest/Lhotse expedition 2010.

Yesterday on the 23rd of May Karsten and 2 sherpas summited Everest at 8:00 a.m. and came down to the South Col very safely. Today they are packing the tents and will be coming down to camp 2 and possibly to basecamp.

With our Lhotse team, Mikko is in camp 3 right now and they are planning to move up to camp 4 today. A few members from other Lhotse expeditions tried going for the summit but could not because the rope has not been fixed on the last section of the route. So let’s see what will happen.

It’s snowing here in basecamp and everything is good. Thank you, this was Raj. back to top

22 May, 2010

Team reports in live (click here to listen)

Hello. This is Raj calling in for the SummitClimb Everest/Lhotse expedition 2010. Today is the 22nd of May and it’s a very beautiful and sunny day.

We have a few members still up on the mountain. Today Karsten is going to camp 4 from camp 3 on our Everest expedition. He will be attempting the summit with his personal sherpa.

We also have Mikko in camp 2 for our Lhotse expedition. He is resting and tomorrow will go to camp 3.

Josette, our leader, has gone to camp 2 from basecamp to get ready for another attempt on the Everest summit. This was Raj calling. Thank you. back to top

The famous Hillary Step going up towards the summit (Richard Pattison).

20 May, 2010

Our leader Raj called in to say that all members are doing well and safe. Everyone is down in basecamp now except for Kasten, who will attempt the summit during the 2nd weather window starting now with one of our sherpas. Best of luck! We'll keep you updated. Thanks for following the news at SummitClimb.com. back to top

18 May, 2010

Our leader Raj called in to say that all members are doing well, safe and down in either basecamp or camp 2 right now. Yesterday Wiktor made the summit with Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa. Congratulations! He's in camp 2 with Karsten, Raj and Josette. Karsten will go for the summit again on the 2nd weather window, starting the 22nd of May, so has elected to stay in camp 2 to prepare. Manoj and Adam are down safe in basecamp.

Raj will be sending another update when he gets down to basecamp. Thanks for following along our expedition. back to top

Below the south summit (Richard Pattison).

17 May, 2010

Summit Newsflash: Message received from Raj Thapa (co-leader of the Everest and Lhotse expedition) - Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa and Wiktor Mazur summited Everest at 7:44 a.m. local Nepal time. Everyone is okay. Thanks and more updates to follow. back to top

16 May, 2010

We spoke to Everest Nepal team leaders Josette and Raj tonight. They are on the south col with Karsten and Wiktor and the sherpas, with the rest of the team in camp 2.

Everyone is fine. Its very windy. They hope to go for the summit tonight. We wish them all of the best of luck and safety!!!!!!!! back to top

14 May, 2010

Team reports in live (click here to listen)

Hi, this is Raj calling in from camp 3 for the SummitClimb Everest South 2010 expedition.

We all got to camp 3 at 3:00 p.m. All the members are doing well and resting. Tomorrow we’ll be going to camp 4 for the summit push. Thank you. back to top

One of our team members ascending the Lhotse face with the South side of Everest in the background (Samuli Mansikka). 

13 May, 2010

Team reports in live (click here to listen)

Hi, this is Raj calling in from camp 2 for the SummitClimb Everest Nepal 2010 expedition.

All of the Everest members are in camp 2 right now and doing okay and healthy. We’re going to camp 3 tomorrow and will attempt the summit on the 15th. We’re all doing fine, healthy and in good spirits. Thank you. back to top

The spectacular view from camp 3. (Sam Mansikka)

11 May, 2010

Team reports in live (click here to listen)

Hello. Greetings from Everest basecamp. This is Manoj Vora bringing you the dispatch for Tuesday May 11th for the SummitClimb Everest Nepal and Lhotse expedition.

The team spent the last 5 days in Pheriche. Team leader, Josette, stayed in basecamp to get things organized for the summit push. In Pheriche, the team members enjoyed good food, plenty of sleep, and access to the internet. All of us made a conscious effort to gain some weight. The change was a welcome one. We had left behind the barren landscape of basecamp and travelled to the land of juniper, green grass, gurgling streams, birds, flowers and lots more oxygen to breath.  We also knew that this was only a temporary respite.

All but one of the team members are back in Everest basecamp. The plan for now is a rest day tomorrow, followed by a staged ascent of Everest with all intentions of attempting the summit on the night of the 15th to the 16th. All of this remains subject to good weather.

All team members are in high spirits and looking forward to the challenge up ahead over the next few days. We celebrated team member Karsten’s birthday with a very delicious cake today.

We send our regards to one and all and please stay tuned for more information. That ends the dispatch for May 11th. Thank you. back to top

The Khumbu Ice-fall and mountains at night (Samuli Mansikka).

10 May, 2010

Our Everest and Lhotse members are well and resting in Pheriche. Our Sherpas are working on setting camp 4, which will be finished by 10th May. We plan to move from here on the 10th of May and check the weather once we get to base camp. I have been collecting weather reports and it seems the wind is still coming till the 14th of May. need to confirm.

Once we get to base camp, I will send you an update.

Thank you for following along our expedition.
Summitclimb Everest and Lhotse expedition 2010. 
back to top

5 May, 2010

Team reports in live (click here to listen)

Greetings from Everest basecamp! This is Manoj Vora bringing you the dispatch for Wednesday May 5th for the SummitClimb Everest/Lhotse Nepal expedition.

Between Friday the 30th of April and Saturday the 1st of May the entire team ascended to camp 2 at 6400 metres/21,000 feet in preparation to go up to camp 3 and spend a night to acclimatize. But as the old proverb goes; man proposes, God disposes. The weather here has been atrocious with overcast skies and snow showers, which makes for treacherous climbing conditions. Under such circumstances, 2 members descended to Everest basecamp on Sunday the 2nd.

Monday the 3rd dawned clear, but climbing the very steep Lhotse Face was out of the question because of avalanche danger. The team at camp 2 sat out that day allowing the climbing conditions to improve.

Finally on Tuesday the 4th we got our chance. The day proved to be a mixed bag of sun, overcast skies, and an occasional light snow shower. Four members started for camp 3 and three of them reached the  7000 metre/23,000 foot camp level after nearly 6 hours of tough climbing on very steep terrain. The one member who returned did reach the 6800 metre mark.

Another member and I tagged camp 3 and returned to camp 2 for the night. The youngest member of our team chose to spend the night at camp 3 for additional acclimatization.

Today is Wednesday the 5th of May. Except for the youngest member, we are all reunited in Everest basecamp. Every journey through the ice-fall has been awe inspiring. My words cannot capture the multitude of emotions invoked in each individual travelling through it.

All members are doing well. We were saddened to see our team member, Mr. Charles Nuzum, depart due to health reasons. We wish him rapid recovery and will miss him.

The rumour mill at Everest basecamp is rife with weather predictions for the summit. Our plan is to take a few days of much needed rest before embarking on our own summit quest. Things promise to get quite exciting in a few days time. I end by saying to all of you out there; lots of love and please stay tuned as more news comes your way. Thank you. back to top

1 May, 2010

Team reports in live (click here to listen)

This is a dispatch for the SummitClimb Everest/Lhotse Nepal 2010 expedition on Saturday, the 1st of May.

All of the team is here at camp 2 enjoying a bit of sun and rest before we climb to camp 3 on the Lhotse Face tomorrow morning. We intend to stay overnight and if we feel strong and the following morning we will climb to the Yellow Band at 7700 metres/25,300 feet before descending back to basecamp for rest.  Then we’ll be ready for the first weather window and summit push.

On a different note, Raj has asked me to tell all who are interested that he considers himself the most handsome man in the Western Cwm. Unfortunately; I cannot do this, as dispatches only make references to facts, not dreams.

Hello to all. See you soon. Bye, bye. back to top


Our comfortable camp 2 at the foot of the Lhotse Face. Camp 3 covered in mist with the Geneva Spur in the background (Richard Pattison). 

29 April, 2010

Team reports in live (click here to listen)

Hi, this is Wiktor Mazur reporting in for the SummitClimb Everest Nepal expedition on Thursday April 29th.

The last 4 days have been rest days here. We have been regaining strength for our acclimatization trip. What do we do on our rest days? We rest and talk, read books, play cards (at which Mikko has been the best lately), do laundry, and some of us took a walk down to a lower village for a change in scenery. Everyone is doing well, feeling good and looking forward to getting back up on the mountain.

Half the team will head up tomorrow to camp 2 with the other half following the next day. We plan to all go together and sleep in camp 3 at 7000 metres/23,000 feet, which should be our last acclimatization trip. We will let you know how these plans work out. Greetings to all of our family and friends following along with our expedition. Thanks. Bye. back to top

Climbers ascending the Lhotse Face (Richard Pattison).
25 April, 2010

Team reports in live (click here to listen)

Hi, this is Manoj Vora with the SummitClimb Everest Nepal 2010 expedition. Today is Sunday the 25th of April.

On Friday the 23rd all climbers ascended the ice-fall to camp 1. Two climbers spent Friday night at camp 1 while the rest of us ascended to camp 2, located at 6400 metres/21,000 feet and higher than the summit of Denali. Acclimatizing to this altitude is essential to ascending higher on Mount Everest.

On Saturday the 24th the two climbers from camp 1 joined us in camp 2. The team leader went up to camp 3 on the Lhotse Face to inspect the site for its safety. Two of the climbers went to the base of the Lhotse Face for an acclimatization walk. The rest of us rested in our tents at camp 2.

As we ascend higher the views continue to be more and more incredible. The days have been a mix of sun, clouds and gusts of wind. Nighttime temperatures have been very cold. The variety of sounds on the mountain never fails to send a tingle up our spines. The loud snaps of tumbling seracs, roar of avalanches, deep grumble of the glacier in motion beneath us, and rock falls all remind us of nature that is constantly in transition and how for this short period of time we are trying to reside in harmony with nature.

Today on Sunday all but 1 climber descended from camp 2 to basecamp. We will be looking forward to a few days of rest before we venture out into the ice-fall again on our way higher to camp 3.

All of the staff here are wonderful. They are taking excellent care of us. None of us have had any major health concerns. We all send our love and high altitude regards to our loved ones, family, friends, well-wishers, and followers. Until then, this is Manoj Vora. Bye. back to top

20 April, 2010

Team reports in live (click here to listen)

Hi, this is Wiktor Mazur reporting in for the SummitClimb Everest Nepal/Lhotse expedition for Tuesday, April 20th.

In the last couple of the days we have had several members leave our expedition for various reasons and we will miss them very much. Those of us remaining are Josette Valloton, Adam Dixon, Karsten Holstad, Wiktor Mazur, Charles Nuzum and Manoj Vora on the Everest team. Mikko Vallanne remains on the Lhotse team.

Yesterday was a busy one for everyone here. Half the group went up to camp 1 to spend the night there. Everyone is back safely in basecamp today. The other half of the group did an acclimatization hike to Kala Pattar, which has good views of Everest.

Everyone is taking a rest day today in basecamp. We’re drinking and eating well, reading, relaxing, and thinking of the members who have decided to go back to their families.

For those of us still here, all of our thoughts go out to everyone back home, all of our families, friends and loved ones. We hope everyone is doing all right and thank you for following along with our expedition. back to top

The view from camp 1 looking towards camp 2 and up the Lhotse face (Sam Mansikka). 
16 April, 2010

Team reports in live (click here to listen)

This assistant leader Adam Dixon sending in a dispatch for the SummitClimb Everest Nepal expedition on Friday, the 16th of April.

Today we made our first go to camp 1 at 6000 metres/19,700 feet. We left basecamp at 4:00 a.m. to make best use of the cold night. The route climbs through the Khumbu ice-fall. This is the glacier that pulls from the valley between Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse. Above basecamp the glacier is squeezed between Nuptse and lower and drops 600 metres, creating house-sized blocks of ice thrown together in one of nature’s best examples of chaos theory. When the sun comes up the reflective qualities of 10’s of millions of tons of ice create a golden heap that can bring both serac and mountaineer to the point of collapse, spoiling an otherwise interesting day out.

All members climbed at a fast pace to get to camp 1 before the sun. Some made it and some turned around at the agreed safety cutoff time. We’re all safely back in camp now hydrating and resting, ready to go again in 2 days, sleep at camp 1 and make progress towards camp 2.

The members would like to send their love to all of their friends and family currently residing all over the world. Thank you. Good night. back to top


Climbers ascending the Khumbu ice fall. Josette in the Khumbu Icefall (Samuli Mansikka).
11 April, 2010

Team reports in live (click here to listen)

Hi, this is Manoj Vora for the SummitClimb Everest Nepal 2010 expedition reporting the events of the last few days. This is the dispatch for April 11th.

On Thursday the 8th we walked up from Pheriche to Lobuche, which was an easy hike.

On Friday the 9th all of us hiked from Lobuche to Everest basecamp via Gorak Shep. We did not spend the night at Gorak Shep. At the end of this arduous day all of us we’re looking forward to the upcoming rest days at basecamp.

Since starting our hike from Lukla we have covered a total distance of 51 kilometres and a vertical gain of 3.5 kilometres.

Yesterday was Saturday the 10th and our first full day of rest at Everest basecamp. We took advantage by catching up on activities like reading, playing cards, chess, listening to music, doing laundry, etcetera.

The days have been sunny and windy. We haven’t had any rain or snow so far.

Today is Sunday the 11th of April. We performed an elaborate puja ceremony with the sherpas. It was very interesting. This was followed by a lot of festivities amongst the climbers and the sherpas. We have asked for blessings for our expedition to succeed.

To all of our family, friends and supporters we say a big hello and thank you. Over and out from Manoj Vora and the SummitClimb Everest Nepal expedition 2010. Bye. back to top

Everest basecamp on a misty morning. The Khumbu Icefall as seen from basecamp (Fabrice Imparato-2006).
5 April, 2010

Team reports in live (click here to listen)

This is Adam Dixon, assistant leader for the SummitClimb Everest Nepal 2010 expedition sending a dispatch for Monday the 5th of April. Greetings to all of our friends and family around the world.

Today we headed from Namche Bazaar for Pangboche after 2 days of rest and acclimatization. All members trekked at their own pace reaching our campsite from lunchtime onwards after a height gain of 500 metres/1640 feet. Some members seemed to like thin air, dust and yak dung more than others, but everyone is well and looking forward to getting to basecamp.

The summit of Everest has been in view all day with her characteristic plumes of clouds streaming south. Thanks for following our expedition. Bye. back to top

Namche Bazaar, the capital of the Sherpa people. See this unique village on our trek to and from basecamp (Tunc Findik).

2 April, 2010 

This is Wiktor Mazur reporting in for the Summitclimb Everest Nepal expedition on Friday April 2. We flew to Lukla yesterday and walked 3 hours to Phakding (the D is not silent). Today we walked to Namche Bazaar at 3400m, where we will take a rest day tomorrow. Everybody is performing well and walking at their own pace. Unfortunately our base camp duffels have not arrived with us due to flight cancellations to Lukla, hopefully we will see them tomorrow. Our international team says hi to everybody around the world following us as we go up. Take care!  back to top

Nepal side team group photo at Annapurna Hotel on morning of departure (Dan Mazur).

1 April, 2010

Today all of our Nepal side expeditions and treks went to the Ktm airport. The climbers were successful and arrived in Lukla and trekked to Phakding.

The trekkers were turned back due to technical problems with their plane. So they spent another night in ktm. We had the briefing for our Tibet side expeditions and treks. Everyone is very excited for the departure. We heard a rumour that we will receive the permit and get our visas for Tibet on 2 April and be able to enter on 3 April. We hope it is true. We spent the day packing, preparing, checking equipment, etcetera. The weather is unusually hot and sunny at the moment. back to top

Nepal side trek group enjoys breakfast at Hotel Tibet before departure (Dan Mazur).

31 March, 2010

Today we had our briefing for the Nepal Everest Lhotse expedition, and also for the Everest View Glacier School and Everest Basecamp Trek. It looks like it will be a brilliant team this year. It rained hard and long again this evening. So that is very good for Nepal, cleaning up the air and putting more water in the reservoirs, which have become alarmingly low. In an exciting development Mingma has decided to join Marcia MacDonald on the www.EverestServiceTrek.org , so they will be visiting the nuns at Deboche Convent and developing a new water project, building reconstruction, etc. Thanks for following our news! back to top

Blessing ceremony for our prayer flags at the monastery. Josette checks Nepal side teams luggage at the Annapurna Hotel prior to departure (Dan Mazur).

30 March, 2010

Today we worked hard on sat phones, walkie-talkies, med kits, high altitude food, and meeting with the teams and leaders. Josette went to the ministry for the permit briefing. They gave her a standing ovation, as she is the only woman leading an Everest expedition this year. It rained hard before dinner. Nepal needs the rain. Hope it does not interfere with our expedition's departure. Thanks for following our news. back to top


Left to right- team leaders Raj, Jjosette, Max preparing the 5 satellite phones our teams will use this spring climbing season (Dan Mazur).

29 March, 2010 

Today we met with all of the leaders of Everest Glacier School, Everest Basecamp trek, Everest Nepal climb, Everest Tibet climb, Lhotse climb, Cho Oyu climb, North Col climb. We reviewed the medical equipment and supplies, and all of the packing lists, we met the members as they arrived and have begun to check their equipment. We had dinner together with the team. A very busy and productive day. back to top

27 March, 2010

Several of us, Dan and Enrique, met on the Cathay Pacific flight. We had an 8 hour layover in Hong Kong. It was a beautiful cool day and we explored the peak tram, escalators, zoo, and botanical garden.Then on the Dragon Air flight to Kathmandu, we ran into Amer, so that was fun. We arrived in Kathmandu very late at night (11:30 pm). back to top

Team Roster

Everest Nepal:

  • Ms. Josette Valloton (leader) - Switzerland
  • Raj Thapa (coordinator) - Nepal/UK
  • Adam Dixon (leader in training) - UK
  • Amer Adam - USA
  • Manoj Vora - USA
  • Karsten Holstad - Norway
  • Wiktor Mazur - Canada
  • Charles Nuzum - USA
  • Paul Burgess - Canada


  • Mikko Valanne - Finland
  • Heikki Kallio - Finland