Ama Dablam Climb and Trek Expedtion News October 2010

Ama Dablam Climb and Trek Expedtion News October 2010

Photos in Ama Dablam slideshow: Chris Kinny, Dan Mazur, Guan-Jang Wu, Joanne Goodson, Tom Lannamann, Scott Darsney, & Valerie Hovland. For caption information, please visit our Ama Dablam photo gallery.
Ama Dablam: news of our expedition
10 October to 10 November, 2010
Dispatches: Please click one of the links below to go directly to that dispatch or just scroll down.

Trip Summary: : The October - November period features the year's best weather and climbing conditions, and this season was no exception. On 3 and 4 November, 11 of our team members and 4 expert climbing sherpas reached the summit of Ama Dablam, Asia's most famous, rock, ice, and snow peak, technical but very climbable. We congratulate the entire team for their fine effort! This was our 10th successful Ama Dablam expedition.

Max was a great leader; very friendly and familiar with how the ropes should be fixed. He checked every anchor and made sure everything was solid and safe. This is a fun moderately technical (but not very difficult due to good fixed ropes) rock, ice, and snow mountain to which we have conducted more than 10 successful expeditions. The rock is straightforward and the snow and ice are soft during October-November. Much of the rock climbing involves airy exposed horizontal traversing on good solid granite that would not be considered real rock climbing but rather "easy rock scrambling".

Located just 15 km / 10 miles from Everest, Ama Dablam is among the most photographed peaks in the world, with everything for the novice to the expert climber. Ama's basecamp is located in a lovely grassy meadow. There is no glacier to cross at the base of Ama Dablam. We practiced fixed rope technique on the warm cliffs around basecamp. Our skillful cooks prepared delicious meals and we had a comfortable individual tent for each member in basecamp. Also, we had a skillful cook in the Advanced Basecamp.

The hardest pitch is 12 metres / 40 feet of French class 4, British Severe, Australian 10, or North American 5.7. The remainder of the route is entirely "scrambling". Our sherpas prepare the route and the rest of us follow, not lead, on secure fixed ropes. Some of the more ambitious members like to try and climb together with the sherpas, which is not so easy as they are so darn strong and fast, even when carrying a huge rucksack. The upper part of the mountain is all snow and ice, at times steep and exposed, but none of it technical enough to be graded.

When you arrive at the summit of Ama Dablam, you can see a fine view of Everest just 10km/ 16 miles away. By the way, climbing Ama Dablam is an excellent way to test yourself to 7000 metres/23,000 feet, climb some very fun, rock, snow, and ice, and get qualified for climbing Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, and Shishapangma. We invite you to join us for our next Ama Dablam expedition: 10 October - 10 November, 2011, and 2012.

Abhi arriving to Camp 2 (Irma Garam). Adrian enjoying the view at Camp 1 (Sam Nelson). Adrian, Max and Suzie at the summit (Christian Mundl). Adrian on the Mushroom ridge (Christian Mundl). Abhi climbing towards the summit above the 'Dablam' (Andries Etienne). Approaching the yellow tower (Andries Etienne).
7 November, 2010

Hi, this is Max Kausch writing a dispatch for the Ama Dablam 2010 autumn Expedition. Today is November 5th and I have excellent news for the families and loved ones of the expedition members.

Now we are back to BC safe and happy. Our expedition was very successful and 14 people from our team summited Ama Dablam between the 3rd and 4th of November. As planned, the whole group was divided in 3 smaller groups.

The first group: Andres, Tenji, Arnie, Andre and Abhi left Camp 2 at 02:30am on November 3rd and summited at 10:10 am and went back to Camp 2 in only 3 hours. They even kept walking down and slept at Camp 1 on the same day. This was our super-fast group and we are very proud of them! They suffered a lot with the wind on the way to the summit, but they eventually got there.

Next day the 2nd team (Irma, Christian, Adrian, Jangbu, Galjie and Max) and the 3rd team (Bjarne, Sam and Pasang) arrived to Camp 2 at 2pm, just in time to meet the 1st team arriving to Camp 2. It was great news for the rest of the team to know that the route was fixed to the summit and in good conditions. Suzie and Dani, our basic logistic members, decided to join the main team. As the 2nd and 3rd teams (plus Suzie and Dani) would leave together (11 people), we had to leave a lot earlier than the 1st team so we decided to wake up at 11pm and leave at 12am. Climbing vertical rock, mixed and snow pitches at night wasn't easy and most of the team arrived to Camp 3 (not longer used by our expeditions) at 6:30am, just in time to watch an amazing sunrise.

Bjarne decided to turn around before reaching Camp 3 at about 5:30am.

Charlie Pasang Sherpa went back to Camp 2 with him. They both arrived to Camp 2 at 9am. The rest of the team spent about 30mins in Camp 3, resting and hydrating. After Camp 3 (6300m) there is a huge blue ice ramp that goes on for about 180m and 45 degrees. This was very hard to climb as everyone had to kick and use the front points of the crampons. After the blue ramp there was a 2 pitch climb on hard snow to pass the huge hanging glacier named 'Dablam'. At some points the climb had 90 degree steps. From there, the route becomes a ridge all the way to the summit.

We expected high winds for that day (as per 3 different forecasts) but it never showed up. At 12:30pm Christian and I summited, then followed by Adrian. We contemplated the amazing views from the summit. We could see Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Pumori, Baruntse, Makalu, Sishapangma, Tawoche, Cholatse, Gyachung Kang, Cho Oyu, Jowo Rabtsang, Kagchenchunga, and many other outstanding mountains on the horizon. In less than 30min, Jangbu Sherpa showed up, followed by Suzie, and Dani later. Irma showed up at 13:15. It was great to enjoy a summit like Ama Dablam with so many nice people at the summit. As we started to walk down at 14:00, we met Sam and Galjie 30 metres away from the final ramp. They summited and spend as little as possible on the summit and started to rappel down.

Christian, Adrian and Jangbu left the summit first at about 13:30 and arrived to Camp 2 at 18:30. Suzie, Dani, Irma and myself descended together and ended up arriving to Camp 2 at 22:00. That was a 22 hours push! Sam and Galjie arrived to Camp 2 at 21:30. It was very long day for many of us but we all enjoyed. Sitting here on the dinning table at BC we just had dinner and cake for dessert, we are very happy and looking back on our 22 hour push. What a climb!!!!

SummitClimb had a very high success rate on Ama Dablam this year, 14 out of 17 people summited. I believe this was due to patience of the group and also for the acclimatization plan we had. Our expedition had a kitchen tent at 5350m, and we were the only expedition with a kitchen tent at Camp 1, at 5700m. This really helped to keep the members well fed and hydrated during the acclimatization process. 

Tomorrow we'll start leaving BC at 9am and go straight to Namche Bazar, then Lukla on the 7th and will try to fly on the 8th to Kathmandu.

We worked really hard on this trip to get the route fixed but I want to give a special thanks to the Himalayan Ascent expedition for the great effort they put on the rope fixing although they only had a few clients. And also a special thanks to the guides of Adventure Consultants, and Adventure Peaks Expeditions for the great cooperation during our time on the mountain. Also, I want to congratulate Suzie and Dani for summiting Ama Dablam without any logistical support.

I will send you photos from Namche tomorrow.

Thank you very much for following the news at


Max Kausch back to top




Adrian rapelling traverse at night after summit (Christian Mundl). Dany and Suzie on the Summit (Max Kausch). Galjie sherpa on the top of Yellow Tower (Max Kausch). Our 2010 team at BC (Bjarne Holmes). Sunset from BC (Christian Mundl). Tenji sherpa climbing the Yellow Tower (Max Kausch).

5 November, 2010 - More Summits!
Hi, this is Max Kausch calling in a dispatch for the Ama Dablam expedition autumn 2010. Today is the 5th of November and I have some really good news.

8 of us summited yesterday between 12:00 and 2:00 p.m. In group two we had Irma, Adrian and Christian together with Jangbu summiting. In group three we had Sam, Gyalje and I summiting.

It was a great day and very clear. We were very lucky with the weather. We had a really long descent and some of us didn’t get here until about 10:00 p.m., so it was a 22 hour push.

We are all happy here at camp 2, although we’re going to start the descent to basecamp today. We’ll call you from there with more details. We just wanted to let you know that everybody is fine. No one had any issues, we’re all happy, and a bit tired.

Thank you very much for following Bye, bye. back to top



Adrian resting below the Yellow Tower (Max Kausch). Camp 2 seen from the Grand Couloir (Max Kausch). Christian on traverse towards Camp 2 (Max Kausch). Enjoying the morning sun at C1 (Sam Nelson).

3 November, 2010 - Team Summits!
Hi, this is Max Kausch calling in a dispatch for the Ama Dablam expedition autumn 2010. Today is the 3rd of November and I have some really good news.

Arne, Andre, and Andries, together with Tenji and Abhi just summited Ama Dablam at 10:30 a.m.! They are on their way down.

Right now I’m at camp 1 and we’re heading to camp 2. We’ll push for the summit tonight. We plan to wake up at 11:00 p.m. and leave camp at midnight. We hope to make it to the summit at 11:00 a.m. tomorrow on the 4th.

Thank you very much for following the news. Bye, bye. back to top


Bjarne climbing the grey tower on the way to Camp 2 (Max Kausch).  Camp 1 (Irma Garam). Sherpas on the way to Camp 2 (Max Kausch). View over the ridge from Camp 1 (Max Kausch).

1 November, 2010

Hi, this is Max Kausch writing a dispatch from BC. Today is November 1st and we are about to leave for the summit push. Our Team 1, in on the way to Camp 1 and Teams 2 and 3 are leaving BC now to sleep at ABC tonight. Dani and Suzie are in Camp 1 and might be pushing for Camp 2 today.

2 expeditions tried to go for the summit yesterday but they had to retreat due to bad snow conditions. It started snowing yesterday during the day and it only stopped this morning at about 7am. The skies cleared completely by 9am. So far, no one reached the summit of Ama Dablam in autumn 2010. There are about 5 climbers now at camp 2 waiting for a good chance for the summit.

This is the news so far. I'll call a dispatch from camp 2 and from the summit letting you know the conditions and the current situation of all our members.

Thanks for following the news at


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Andre resting on the way to ABC (Andries Etienne). Andries, Andres, Arne, Sam and Irma in the dinning tent at BC (Christian Mundl).  Team on the way to the summit, just below the 'Dablam'  (Andries Etienne). Tents at Camp 2 (Arne Bergau).
30 October, 2010

Hi, this is Max Kausch writing a dispatch for the Ama Dablam autumn 2010 expedition. Today is October 30th and we are at BC.

Our summit push starts tomorrow. We split our team in 3 due to lack of space at high camp and different speeds of the members. Team 1 will leave BC tomorrow and Teams 2 and 3 will leave the day after. The teams are:

Team 1: Andre, Arnie, Andres, Tenji, Abhi Team 2: Irma, Christian, Adrian, Jangbu, Max Team 3: Bjarne, Sam, Galjie, Pasang

Abhi, the sherpas and I, will be assisting the members during the ascent. If the ropes get fixed by tomorrow, team 1 will try to summit on November 3rd and descend to C1. Then teams 2 and 3 will move to C2 and try the summit on November 4th.

Remember that this is only a PLAN and we might change dates, times and members depending on the conditions.

Our sherpas worked very hard to fix the route to C3, and now a group formed from 2 sherpas from IMG, 2 from Adventure Consultants and 2 from AlpenGlow is fixing the last part of the route to the top. There is a great amount of team work up here!

Down here at BC, the weather was good until this morning. Right now, there's very high clouds coming from the south and crossing the sky. We hope this improves tomorrow.

Andre, our doctor, has been very busy lately. Apart from the Scottish climber with a broken arm, he helped 2 climbers from another expedition. One probably had a serious lung infection and the other maybe a severe case of AMS or even HAPE. The one with lung infection flew yesterday in a helicopter to Kathmandu. We wish a good health for them.

These are all the news so far,

Thank you very much for following the news at


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Andre Gie, our doctor, helping a Scottish climber with a broken arm (Max Kausch). BC tents (Sam Nelson).

27 October, 2010
Hi, this is Max Kausch writing a dispatch for the Ama Dablam expedition autumn 2010. Today is October 27th and we are all back to BC. It's -5C outside now and we are eating french fries, yak steak and Sam is playing U2 on the speakers. Not bad uh?

First things first, Avi had to go down to Kathmandu due to a knee problem. He hit his knee on the way up to ABC and it became very complicated for the rest of his ascent so he decided to call off the expedition. We will miss Avi and hope he has a smooth and safe journey back to Israel. Christian is sad and happy at the same time as he will now have more food available at BC.

The rest of the team is back to BC, we all came down today. Irma, Christian and Adrian are very upset as their sauna spot was taken over by another expedition while they were up acclimatizing. Arnie totally recovered from his flu and one of the strongest of the team now. Bjarne is slowly recovering from his flu and improving his performance at high altitudes.

Our last 3 days were fairly busy. The team left BC on the 24th and spent a night at ABC, at 5350m. Next morning Avi had to go back to BC and the rest of the team pushed to C1 and spent a night there (5700m). On the 26th morning the whole team climbed the route to camp 2, at 6000m. The way is very technical and exposed but it's FUN climbing. When you pop your head over the ridge, you can see Pumori, Cho Oyu, Gyachung Kang, Tawoche, Cholatse and many more outstanding peaks. There is a few vertical rock sections between Camp 1 and Camp 2 but all members enjoyed the climb very much. I managed to phone a dispatch from Camp 2 and I hope you all got it.

On the same day we came back to sleep at Camp 1, at 5700m. But on the way down, a Scottish climber from another expedition broke her arm as she fell against a rock face while hanging on the fixed lines. Abhi did a fantastic job helping her together with her expedition leader. On arrival to Camp 1, Andre, our doctor, examined her and immobilized her forearm. She kept going down and made it to BC this morning. A helicopter was called and it took her to Kathmandu. Thank you Andre and Abhi!! It was a fantastic experience for us (surely not for the climber with the broken arm) but it showed a lot of team work.

We had a lazy morning today and started our walk back to BC very slowly.

Suzie and Dany spent 3 nights at 5700m and are super acclimatized. They set their tent on a very good spot at Camp 1. They are also back to BC.

Regarding the route fixing, we are doing very well. We are very proud of our sherpas who worked very hard during the last few days to get the route fixed to Camp 3. Tenji and Pasang together with a sherpa from another expedition, fixed a very complex section to camp 3. It involves vertical mixed pitches, steep snow gullies and exposed snow mushrooms. We are very happy and proud for having these super-humans working on our team.

During the past 3 days other commercial expeditions showed up at BC and they are all willing to help with the rope fixing. We hope we can share the rope fixing work to the summit within the next 2 or 3 days. The last sections look very snowy this year, but we hope that a team of sherpas from different expeditions will fix the last 800m of rope to the summit. Our team already carried most of the rope necessary for the job and dropped it at 6000m.

That is the news so far. Thank you very much for following the news at


Max Kausch
back to top
Andries enjoying the view on the way to BC (Andries Etienne). BC tents after snow storm (Irma Garam). 
26 October, 2010
Hi, this is Max Kausch calling in a dispatch for the Ama Dablam expedition autumn 2010.

We just wanted to let everyone know we made it safely to camp 2. I’m standing at the top of camp 2 right now. It’s about 6000 metres/19,700 feet here. All of the members are going down tonight to camp 1. They are on descent right now. It’s 3:00 p.m. up here.

Our sherpas fixed rope up to the Mushroom Ridge, which is at about 6400 metres/21,000 feet and they are on their way down to camp 1 tonight. I’ll call in another dispatch as soon as possible from camp 1 just to let you know that everyone is safe, sleeping and having tea and food.

Thank you very much for following the news. Bye, bye. back to top

Bjarne at lake close to BC (Irma Garam). Camp 2 (Arne Bergau). Stupa with praying wheels in Namche (Bjarne Holmes). Jangbu sherpa and Irma on the way to Camp 2 (Sam Nelson).

25 October, 2010

Hi, this is Max Kausch writing a dispatch for the Ama Dablam expedition autumn 2010. Today is October 25th and I'm writing from BC.

Our members are currently waking up at ABC and getting ready to continue their push to sleep at Camp 1. I'll meet them today as I'm going for a straight push from here to C1. The idea is to spend a night a camp 1 at 5700m, then touch camp 2 at 6000m and come back to sleep at camp 1. This would be a great acclimatization for our team and we hope to be back at BC on the 27th and rest for 2 days before the summit push.

2 of our sherpa, Tenji and Jangbu, together with 4 sherpas from another 2 teams, are planning to fix the route between C2 and C3 on the 26th. Other big teams just arrived to BC and I hope we can join forces to fix the route to the summit before the end of the month.

Avi had a rough night at ABC and is coming down right now to rest at BC.

Suzie and Dani spent a night at Camp 1 and might be going higher to acclimatize today. The rest of the team is doing very well, and will walk slowly to C1 today.

We will call a dispatch from Camp 1 or Camp 2 tomorrow letting you know how everyone is doing.

Thank you for following the news at


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Irma, Christian, Sam with all the staff at BC (Christian Mundl). Jangbu sherpa close to Camp 2 (Irma Garam).

22 October, 2010

Hi, this is Max Kausch writing a dispatch for the Ama Dablam expedition Autumn 2010. Today is October 22nd and we are all back to BC. Yesterday we trekked to ABC and as I mentioned on the previous dispatch, we managed to set a kitchen tent up there. It really helps for the members' acclimatization to have a camp with food and hot drinks at 5350m.

Avi, as well as Arne had a cold and they decided to stay at BC. Arne actually trekked to ABC but came back down on the same day. Avi stayed down here and will trek to ABC tomorrow together with Arne. They are both feeling very well and eating a lot.

We are doing very well logistically: we have 7 tents at ABC + a huge kitchen tent, 6 tents + 1 kitchen tent at C1 and 2 tents at C2. We are planning to set another 4 tents at C2 within the next few days.

Today Irma, Adrian, Christian, Sam, Andre, Andries and Abhi carried a load to C1, at 5700m. Not bad for their 4th day on the mountain! Bjarne wasn't feeling 100% due to a flu and decided to come back to BC. Tenji, Galje and I left ABC this morning and went straight to camp 2 to set tents and fix lines. All ropes are now fixed to C2 at 6000m and we are very happy for this.

Suzie and Dani decided to stay an extra day at BC to rest and are planning to sleep at ABC tomorrow and C1 next day.

The weather is improving slowly. All mornings are sunny with blue skies, but all afternoons are cloudy after about 2 pm. On the good side, stopped snowing and raining.

Well, this is all the news so far.

Thank you for following the news at


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Members waiting for dinner at Camp 1 (Irma Garam). On the way to BC (Irma Garam).  
21 October, 2010

Hi, this is Max Kausch writing a dispatch for the Ama Dablam Autumn expedition 2010. Today is October 21st 2010.

Our last pieces of luggage arrived yesterday, as well as our sirdar Kaji and our 2 climbing sherpas, Pasang and Jangbu. Bjarne was extremely happy when he saw his duffel bag for the first time in 1 week and danced around it for a little while.

Yesterday the members reviewed a few rope techniques, climbed and abseiled vertical rock. This will really help when they get to higher camps.

Our sherpas Tenji and Galje took a load to camp 1 and found about 5 spots to set tents up there. Also, they found a water stream at 5150m and this will allow us to set an Advanced Base Camp so our members don't have to gain 1100m in 1 single day.

Suzie and Danny went to camp 1 at 5500m yesterday. Suzie carried a huge sherpa load together with Danny and we were quite impressed. They also set a tent at camp 1 and came back down to rest.

Today we had a puja. We brough a Lama from Pangboche for the puja. After lunch we will all start trekking to ABC. 7 yaks will be carrying part of our kit to ABC and we will even have a kitchen tent there.

The sauna building failed miserably as Irma, Adrian and Christian have been very busy eating and drinking tea at base camp.

The route fixing is going fairly well. A few expeditions that have been here for the last 2 weeks have been working on the route and already reached the base of the yellow tower, at about 5900m. Our sherpas are ready and acclimatized from our recent expedition to Cho Oyu and will start working on the route fixing in 2 days. One of our sherpas, Tenji for example, already fixed the route 5 times and summited Ama Dablam 7 times! All our other sherpas already summited Ama Dablam at least twice!

We are very confident about this season!

These are all the news so far.

Thank you for following the news at


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 Our team members during our puja ceremony with the lama from Pangboche (Max Kausch). Our Puja at BC (Bjarne Holmes).

19 October, 2010

Hi, this is Max Kausch calling a dispatch for the Ama Dablam expedition autumn 2010.

Today is the 19th of October. We finally made it to basecamp at 4500 metres. We had a beautiful morning today, so all of the members are out wandering around the camp. There are quite a few big teams here at basecamp. It’s about 1:00 p.m. and it started raining just like yesterday and the day before. There are 7 expeditions already here at basecamp. There are another 12 coming up, but most of the other expeditions will not be here until next week or at the end of the month.

The whole team is here at basecamp doing well. Arne had to stay an extra day at Pangboche to recover from the flu, but he’s back at basecamp. It only took him 2 ½ hours to get here, so that means he’s recovering very fast.

Yesterday we also met Andre who was trekking with his father and he joined our expedition in Pangboche. Andre is a doctor and he will be helping us with any medical issues.

Regarding the promise of the cargo, Murari our awesome agent in Kathmandu, chartered a helicopter to send the remaining cargo to Lukla.  The 3 pieces of luggage left in Lukla made it yesterday to the airport and they are on their way now to basecamp.

Our sirdar, Kaji, is on his way to basecamp right now, as well our sherpas, Pasang and Jangbu. They are trekking to basecamp right now.

Things are starting to go very well now and I even think that tomorrow we can have a puja, which is a Buddhist welcoming ceremony. We do it on the mountain for every expedition in Nepal and Tibet. The sherpas really believe it and it’s very interesting for the foreign climbers. They love it.

We saw the first teams going up to camp 1 today. No one has starting fixing ropes yet and no one has climbed above camp 2, apart from a Russian expedition that was here 3 weeks ago.

The mountain actually looks pretty loaded with snow, but we hope it consolidates by the time we get to the high camp.

Part of the team (Irma, Christian and Adrian) decided to build a sauna today. We hope they will have the sauna finished by the end of the expedition. Good luck to them!

This is all the news so far. Thank you very much for following Bye, bye. back to top

Sam and Jangbu sherpa descending to Camp 1 (Max Kausch).
17 October, 2010
Hi, this is Max Kausch calling a dispatch for the Ama Dablam expedition autumn 2010.

We made it to Pangboche. The whole team is here, apart from 2 sherpas and our sirdar, who are still in Kathmandu waiting for some luggage. The weather has been pretty bad lately. When it clears we hope to get our cargo here in Pangboche and take it to basecamp. Tomorrow we’re going to meet Suzy and Dani, who are coming from lower down about half an hour from here. We’ll be moving to Ama Dablam basecamp finally tomorrow morning at 4500 metres. Everyone is doing really well and acclimatizing with no problems to the altitude.

Thank you very much for following the news at Bye, bye. back to top

Ama Dablam in the morning (Nikos Daniilidis). Ama Dablam seen along the approach trek to basecamp (Nikos Daniilidis)
15 October, 2010
Hi, this is Max Kausch calling from Namche Bazaar.

All members are here, as well as most of the bags. Some of us trekked here yesterday, with the others making it here today. We are going to stay in Namche another day due to some problems with our baggage that hasn’t arrived. We’ve got most of the cargo, but some still hasn’t arrived.

 So we’re going to stay here another day and that will be great for our acclimatization. Everyone is doing great. They’re playing poker right now on their bedroom mattresses, believe it or not. There are no problems, everyone is acclimatizing very well and staying healthy.

The day after tomorrow we’re going to keep going to Pangboche, which is 3900 metres/12,700 feet. Thank you very much for following the news at Bye, bye. back to top

Aerial view of Namche (Justin Dickinson of the Big Umbrella).
14 October, 2010

Hi, this is Max Kausch, leader of the Ama Dablam trip, writing dispatches for the Ama Dablam, Buruntse and Everest Glacier School expeditions.

First of of all, some of you probably heard of a accident with an aircraft in Lukla on October 12th. Well, don't worry, none of us were involved in it.

The accident was with an airline that we don't use. By the way, everyone in the aircraft is fine and no one was hurt in the incident.

Due to the bad weather on the 9th, 10th and 11th and the accident on the 12th, there has been delays on the flights from Kathmandu to Lukla. Most of our members already made it to Lukla and some already started trekking.

The ones left in Kathmandu are: Ms. Suzy Imber from UK, Mr. Dani Fuller from UK, (both on the Ama Dablam trip), Mr Felix Berg from Germany (assistant leader on the Baruntse trip) and myself. We couldn't catch the flights to Lukla yesterday and also tried today the whole day and couldn't fly. Mr Sam Nelson from USA (Ama Dablam member) and Stefan Kunz from Germany (Baruntse Member) managed to fly to Lukla today and Dan reported that they made it safely to the mountains.

Also, the whole Everest Glacier School team is still in Kathmandu together with the leader Rajen Thapa, they will try to fly to Lukla tomorrow at 5am!

The rest of us will go back to the airport at 6am and try to catch the first flight to Lukla and also take part of the baggage that couldn't be transported to Lukla due to the excessive amount of passengers.

I hope to send the next dispatch from Lukla or from somewhere high on the mountains!

Thank you all for following the news at


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Inside the plane cockpit. Lukla airport. Plane taking off (Ralph Baz).

13 October, 2010

We flew to Lukla today. Yeah! our entire team is nearly up here. That is very good for us, as other teams have been delayed, due to three days of bad weather, a plane crash in Lukla yesterday (no one was injured, thank god) and an airlines labour union strike at the airport today. Here is a photo of mike wearing his duvet down jacket at the Kathmandu airport out on the tarmac on a hot day. They said his rucksack was too heavy so he put on his duvet down jacket. Good on ya mate! back to top


12 October, 2010

Today a plane crashed in Lukla. Thank god no one was hurt. One of our members, Brian Cross from Birmingham snapped some photos. Currently the story is that the brakes failed and the plane crashed into the wall at the end of the runway, damaging the nose. I am sure there will be more news after further investigation by the ministry of civil aviation. back to top


11 October, 2010

Hi, this is Max Kausch, the leader of the Ama Dablam trip writing the first dispatch from Kathmandu.

After the winds that came with end of the monsoon, Kathmandu is suddenly cloudy and it has been difficult to fly to Lukla. But I'm sure we will manage to get there.

Most of the members for our 3 trips already arrived and are busy with last minute preparations. Yesterday we all went to a restaurant and took a table with more than 40 seats!!!

Our team having dinner in Kathmandu (Max Kausch).

We are planning to fly to Lukla tomorrow the 12th at 5am.

Here is the team rooster for the expedition:

Team Roster:
  • Max Kausch - UK/Argentina (leader)
  • Arne Bergau - Germany (leader-in-training)
  • Ms. Irma Garam - Finland
  • Ms. Suzy Imber - UK/USA (basic member)
  • Dani Fuller - UK (basic member)
  • Adrian Allsopp - UK
  • Sam Nelson - USA
  • Avraham Zeevi - Israel
  • Bjarne Holmes - UK
  • Andries Etienne - Belgium
  • Andre Gie - South Africa
  • Christian Mundl - Germany 

Climbing Sherpa:

  • Pasang Sherpa
  • Tenji Sherpa
  • Dawa Jangbu Sherpa
  • Gyalji Sherpa


  • Jay Bahadhur Nagarkoti
  • Nima Dorjee Lama

Base Camp Sirdar: