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Ama Dablam Expedtion October 2007

Here is a slide show of pictures taken during the last few weeks on the mountain, including the summit. Congratulations to all of the members on a fun and successful season!
News of Our Recent expedition: Ama Dablam October 2007
1 October to 1 November, 2007
Dispatches:
Please click one of the links below to go directly to that dispatch or just scroll down.

31 October, 2007

This marks the end of another successful SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition. Below is the final list of all of the summitters. Congratulations to everyone and thank you to all the sherpas, members, leaders, leaders-in-training, and other teams on the mountain for working together to make this a memorable expedition.

Members:

  • Ms. Joanne Goodson
  • Ms. Martina Nolan
  • Ms. Griet Veris
  • Dan Mazur, leader
  • Sean Foxcroft : leader-in-training
  • Eyal Wigderson : assistant leader
  • James Adamson
  • Matt Belman
  • Adam Dixon
  • Eric Elliot
  • Elling Heiberg
  • Tag Hovland
  • Anders Jacobsen
  • Stein Palmer Johansen
  • Henry Liu
  • Nico Merciny
  • Bram Munnichs
  • Brian Rolfson
  • Bjorn Rygnestad
  • Logan Talbot
  • Guy Van Gool
  • Lars Wegge

The following sherpas:

  • Sano Jangbu Sherpa
  • Tulo Jangbu Sherpa
  • Pasang Gyaluk Sherpa
  • Tenji Sherpa
  • Shera Sherpa
  • Lakpa Kongle Sherpa
  • Lakpa Garmu Sherpa
  • Lakpa Gyaluk Sherpa
  • Gyelzen Sherpa back to top

27 October, 2007

Camp 2 as seen from above (Photo: Dante Taylor).

The team is all down from the mountain now.

A lot of people summitted. Everyone tried very hard to the best of their abilities. Summitting the mountain is not everything, but being a member of a cohesive and caring team is. Thanks for hanging in there and being a team player and doing the best you could do!

It was a challenging season. Luckily we had some of the best weather I have seen in the last five years. Congratulations to all of the members and sherpas, their families, friends, and colleagues. Everyone tried hard, to the best of their abilities. It was a successful trip in that it was such a great team of members and sherpas, and leaders and leaders-in-training. Even the porters and yak drivers and lodge owners tried very hard to help.

Everyone pulled together as a strong and supportive team. In addition, we cooperated and worked really well together with the other teams on the mountain.

We removed a lot of old rope and rubbish and put up some really good quality and safe new rope thanks to Sterling Ropes. Thanks to Ozark-Liwaco tents. We had good quality tents in every camp. Everyone from our group and many of the other teams shared these ropes and tents.

On the downside, there was a scary avalanche in camp 3 and one of the other expeditions left the mountain and went home. We send them our condolences and respect their decision. It was the right one for them. We chose not to use camp 3, and go from camp 2 to the summit and back to camp 2, to minimize our exposure to avalanche risk. It meant a long day of climbing with a very early "alpine start". This meant increased exposure to cold and frostbite for all of the teams. Some team members from each expediton got frostbite.

Even two of our members, Martina and Eyal, suffered from cold feet and frostbite, and we are very sorry for that. They were helicoptered out immeadiately and have already flown back to their families at home. We wish them a speedy and healthy recovery.

Everyone on the team, both sherpas and climbing members, gave so much of themselves to make this the best expedition it could be. All of the teams on the mountain pulled together so well. Let us pull together in support of Martina and Eyal too! Once again, our congratulations and thanks to all of the team members and sherpas, and especially to their families and friends and colleagues at home for supporting everyone and being a crucial part of climbing Ama Dablam. Kudos to you! back to top

24 October, 2007

Third team summits.

Dan reports from camp 2 (click here to listen)

Hi, this is a dispatch for October 24th, 2007 from the Ama Dablam Expedition.

The time here is 10:24 p.m., that’s local Nepal time. I’d like to just mention that the following members reached the summit of Ama Dablam today.

  • Brian
  • Matt
  • Eric
The following sherpas:
  • Lakpa Komle
  • Lakpa Kormu

Thank you very much. Bye, bye.

23 October, 2007

Third team is going for the summit!

Dan reports from camp 2 (click here to listen)

Hi, this is Dan. I’m calling from the SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition.

Today is the 23rd of October and the time is 8:30 p.m. I’d like to tell you who is in camp 2 right now ready to go for the summit. We have:

  • Tony
  • Matt
  • Andrew
  • John
  • Eric
  • Brian
  • Pasang Gyalu
  • Lakpa Gyaluk
  • Lakpa Kormu
  • Gyaljen

They plan to leave in about 6 hours. I hope to be calling back soon with news of their success. Thank you very much. back to top

22 October, 2007

 

Dan to ABC, Ama Dablam in background. Photographer: Tom Proctor from Indiana. Our nightly radio call on the South West Ridge. Photographer: Robert Chang from California.

Team 2 summits!

Dan reports with the list of summits from team 2 (click here to listen)

Hi, it’s the 22nd of October and it’s 1:14 p.m.

We’re on the summit of Ama Dablam at 6,812 metres/22,349 feet. I’m up here with Joanne, Bram, Anders, Lakpa Gyaluk, and Tenjin Sherpa. We’re looking at the view and can see Everest loud and clear. There is a huge wind cloud blowing off of it. In fact, today’s climb to the summit was very cold and windy. I’d have to say it was unusually so.

We’re about to head back down to camp 2, so wish us luck. I hope we get there really soon because I’m cold and hungry. OK, thank you. Bye. back to top

...

Dan reports live from the summit (click here to listen)

Hi, this is Dan calling from the SummitClimb Ama Dablam October Expedition.

Today is the 22nd of October and the time is 7:30 p.m., Nepal time. Our team is back in camp 2 and I’m going to read the names of the summiters. We have:

  • Anders
  • Joanne
  • Bram
  • Dan
  • Tenjin
  • Lakpa Gyaluk

Tomorrow another section of our team is coming up to camp 2 and they are going to try for the summit tomorrow night. We wish them lots of luck. So stay tuned. Thank you very much. Bye, bye. back to top

21 October, 2007

Second team is going for the summit!

Dan reports from camp 2 (click here to listen)

Hi, this is Dan with the Ama Dablam SummitClimb Expedition.

Today is October 21 and the time is 5:00 p.m., local Nepal time. We are up here in camp 2. This is our second group that’s headed towards the summit. The elevation here is about 6,000 metres/19,800 feet. It’s a really beautiful evening, so far anyway. I’m looking out the door of the tent right now and I don’t see a lot of clouds. It’s not really too windy, with lots of blue sky, and the sun is just setting. It looks like it might be a good night.

Our plan is to wake up at midnight and start heading for the summit at 3:00 in the morning. I’m going to read you a list of who is up here tonight in camp 2. We have:

  • Anders
  • John
  • Joanne
  • Dante
  • Bram
  • Doug
  • Dan
  • Lakpa Gyaluk
  • Tenjin
  • Gyaljen
  • Jangbu

So we’ll keep you updated and if everything works out, maybe we could even make a satellite phone call from the summit and tell you how we did. So wish us luck and thanks for following along with our expedition. OK, talk to you soon. Bye.

back to top

20 October, 2007

 

 

Summits!

Dan reports with the list of summits (click here to listen)

Hi this Dan calling from the SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition.

Today is the 20th of October. The time is 8:54 p.m. local Nepal time.

I’m calling to inform everyone that our team has returned from the summit to camp 2. All members who attempted to reach the summit and all sherpas have returned to camp 2 safely and I’m going to read the list now. The names are as follows:

  • Bjorn
  • Elling
  • Tag
  • Stein
  • Lars
  • Guy
  • Griet
  • Nico
  • Martina
  • Adam
  • Jangbu 1
  • Jangbu 2
  • Henry
  • Shera
  • Sean
  • Eyal
  • Logan
  • James

The group will be returning to basecamp tomorrow and our second group will move into camp 2 and try for a summit attempt in the next day or so. It is snowing lightly now, so the weather doesn’t look so perfect. We hope our second group has good luck.

We’d like to congratulate all of the members and sherpas who made it. They did a fantastic job and we’re very proud of them. We’d also like to thank all of the other teams on the mountain who helped so much in fixing rope and camps and cooperated so well in making this ascent possible. Thank you very much. Bye, bye. back to top

Earlier that day:

12 Members and 4 Sherpas heading for the summit!

Dan reports in from Camp 1 (click here to listen)

Hi, this is Dan calling with the Ama Dablam for the 20th of October. It’s 8:37 in the morning here in Nepal on a beautiful sunny day.

We’re in camp 1 and we’re looking up towards the summit of Ama Dablam. We had a group in camp 2 yesterday and because of the ice avalanches in camp 3, we decided it wouldn’t be safe to go sleep in camp 3. Our group in camp 2 of twelve members and four sherpas decided to go for the summit from camp 2 starting at 3:00 in the morning. We’ve been monitoring their radio transmissions all through the night. Now that the sun is fully up we can see their progress and talk to them on the radio. It seems that everyone is OK.

The first member of the group is nearing the summit now. We can see that with our binoculars from camp 1. The rest of the group seems to be doing well, pretty much staying together. One member of the team, Ms. Griet Veris from Belgium, felt a little cold when she got to camp 3. Our Sherpa Shera and our leader Eyal were able to help her get warmed up and get her some hot tea. They radioed that she feels better now and is continuing on to the summit.

We will give you some more news as soon as we get it. We wish the team a lot of luck, a very safe ascent to the top, and a very safe return back to camp 2. Thank you very much. Bye, bye.

back to top

19 October, 2007

An avalanche has occurred in camp 3. Please read down or listen to the dispatch for more details.

Dan reports in from Camp 2 (click here to listen)

Hi, this is a dispatch for the 19th of October at 7:35 a.m., here in Nepal.

I’m calling for the SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition. We just received a report from a team in camp 3 that there were avalanches during the night. Apparently a piece of ice from the Dablam fell down and tore out some of the fixed lines. Luckily at this time, as far as we know, no one was injured. We are still trying to receive any reports from the upper mountain. Our main team was going to go for camp 3 today, as they slept in camp 2 last night.

At this time they are contemplating sending up two strong sherpas with one of the leaders to go and survey the situation. We will send you more information as soon as it is available. Thank you very much. Bye, bye. back to top

18 October, 2007

Dan reports in live from Camp 2 (click here to listen)

Hi this Dan calling from SummitClimb.com, the Ama Dablam Expedition for October 2007.

The time is about 4:00 in the afternoon and today is the 18th of October. I’m calling from camp 2, which is located at about 6,000 metres/19,500 feet. It was really hard to get here today. We had a storm two days ago that laid down a lot of snow on the rocks. We were really lucky with the weather today.

Pretty much the whole team has been to camp 2 now. There is a group of about 12 of us who are going to sleep in camp 2 tonight, move up to camp 3 tomorrow, and then go for the summit the next day.

Hopefully the route will be in by then. Right now it’s not in. There is no route to the summit. There is a group of people up there working on it. They’ve been working on the route to the summit for the last 3 days. We’re watching their progress slowly, slowly, like at a snail’s pace. So wish us luck and we’ll talk to you soon. Thank you very much. Bye, bye.

15 October, 2007

Photos from the mountain

Our senior Ama Dablam expedition leader, Doug, explains our plans for going to the summit, where we will be dividing ourselves into 5 teams on five separate days and working with our 12 sherpas, 6 leaders, and the other teams on the mountain. We want to make this season's Ama Dablam expedition as succesful as possible for our team members and all of the expeditions on the mountain. In the foreground is Ms. Griet Veris, member of the SummitClimb Antwerpen-Belgium team, hair still towel drying, fresh out of a hot shower in our excellent basecamp shower system. back to top

A bittersweet farewell to our best member, Larry Boersma, an incredible role model for us at age 77.

left to right:

Senior expedition leader Doug Sandok, Lakpa Gyeluk (high-level personal sherpa with 4 ascents of Ama Dablam and 5 of Everest), Dan Mazur, Larry Boersma, Joanne Goodson from near Birmingham, Gyelzen Sherpa (new sherpa in training, courtesy of www.MountEverestFoundation.org). back to top

SummitClimb team hanging around together eating a hot dinner from our advanced basecamp kitchen ( "ABC" is located at the foot of Ama Dablam on the Mingbo Plateau at 5300 metres, 17,300 feet). In front of an impressive sunset over Mount Kangtega, SummitClimb team member Ms. Martina Nolan from Dublin asks leader-in-training Paul Hickman if he would please repeat himself, with the added comment: "Is that how people from Arkansas really speak?" back to top

Our team enjoying a sunny breakfast in ABC, advanced basecampp at 5300 metres, 17,300 feet. The awesome ABC cook, Pemba, hustles about with hot tea and fresh pancakes, while the SummitClimb Norwegian team (Bjorn, Stein, Elling, Lars, and Tag) appreciate that first cuppa. In the background, leader-in-training Kelly Confer advises Stewart from Australia about what he should have in his rucksack for the day's acclimatization walk up to camp 1. back to top

Ama Dablam glitters in the morning light from above "ABC", advanced basecamp at 5300 metres, 17,300 where we have our own cook and specially catered meals. back to top

Looking down from ABC towards our basecamp. Across the far ridges you can just make out our tents in the grassy meadow at 4500 metres, 14,700 feet. In this photo you can see a few of the good sections of foot path that carry one across the some 800 metres, 2,600 feet of terrain between the two camps. back to top

Team member Matt from Salt Lake City just after making the tough climb to camp 1 at 5700 metres, 18,700 feet. On the left is our black camp 1 kitchen tent where our c1 cook Sangay Sherpa makes some delicious meals for all of our members and sherpas. On the right is one of our superb Ozark tents, which all the members use and they are extremely strong and durable. Ozark is the "own-brand" of the Liwaco company which manufactures all of the tents for North Face, Mountain Hardware, Sierra Designs, etcetera. back to top

Stein from Oslo and Bram from Amsterdam chilling in camp 1 at 5700 metres, 18,700 feet, during an acclimatization walk. Camp 1 is a steep perch where we have our own cook, who makes hot fruit drinks, tea, and meals for our members. Sorry it is a bit foggy in this photo, as the clouds tend to roll in each day around lunch time. back to top

13 October, 2007

Dan reports in live from Camp 1 (click here to listen)

Hi. This is Dan calling from the SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition for autumn 2007.

Today is the 13th of October and the time is 1:00 in the afternoon. We are sitting up here at camp 1, which is at about 5,700 metres/18,000 feet. It’s fairly warm with light winds. It’s kind of cloudy, but the clouds have just parted and we can see the route pretty good, as well as down to the lakes below.

Camp 1 is fairly busy. Almost all of the members of our team have reached camp 1. Just a few members have not. A couple of our members are down in ABC today.

Our sherpas and leaders have fixed the ropes to camp 2 at 6,000 metres/20,000 feet. I’m looking over at camp 2 right now and I can see them standing up there. They have put 6 tents up in camp 2 and they plan to continue putting the route out and fixing the rope towards camp 3. Hopefully the weather will cooperate. Right now our members are just trying to get acclimatized to ABC and to camp 1 and we’ll probably all be returning to basecamp tomorrow or the next day or so.

We’re up here with a couple of other teams who we have been working together with on the route. Hopefully the weather will continue to be good and we’ll be able to climb this mountain. So we’ll speak to you soon. Thank you very much. Bye, bye.

8 to 12 October, 2007

This is our basecamp.

We arrived at base camp on the 7th of October, which is around 14960ft or 4650m. Andy stayed behind in Pangboche with a chest infection. Andy has now joined us in basecamp and is walking to abc for acclimatization today. Perry Beck (who had a case of Pulmonary Edema) headed back towards Lukla accompanied part way by Frank (a physician). We wish Perry the best and he will be missed.

October 8th: We had the Puja ceremony in the morning in basecamp to bless the climb and the climbing equipment. back to top

We had a prayer ceremony in basecamp, at the base of the mountain to bring good fortune to all of our sherpas and the entire expedition.

October 9th: We discussed the medical kit, altitude sickness, and the Gamow bag. Doug and Brian went up to ABC to acclimatize and Eyal is setting up camp one. The rest of the group trained on a fixed rope course and participated in a thorough gear check.

October 10th: Sean, Paul, Dan, and Kelly took most of the group up to ABC (17500ft or 5350m) for an acclamation and load carry. We enjoyed soup and tea from the kitchen tent and then we built a bathroom out of rocks and had a rest before heading back to base camp. back to top

We did a training day on fixed ropes in basecamp to familiarize ourselves with the climbing techniques.

October 11th: Half of the group went to ABC with Sean and Doug for both another load carry and further acclimatization and the rest of the members relaxed showered and caught up on laundry at base camp.

Eyal and our high altitude sherpas fixed the route from camp 1 (18,800ft or 5700m) to camp 2 (19,800ft or 6000m). They established two tents at camp two with the hopes of getting a few more tents set up on the 12th. We are working closely with both the German and Canadian teams. Cooperation is very important here.

October 12th: Paul, Dan and Kelly are taking a large majority of the rest of the members to ABC to spend the night and carry loads to camp 1. Members that feel well enough may stay a night at camp 1.

The climb is now under way so keep us in your thoughts… Paul Hickman, Kelly Confer, Logan Talbot, Dan Mazur -Summit Climb back to top

This picture shows the Deboche Nunnery stove that is going to be replaced. It's basically a pile of rocks with old cooking oil tins nailed around it.

8 October, 2007

Camp 1 at 5,700 metres/18,800 feet. A beautiful spot to watch the sun go down on Kangtega (Chris Kinny).

Dan reports in live (click here to listen)

Hi this is Dan calling for the SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition.

Nearly all of the members have now reached basecamp. Today we had our prayer ceremony for the sherpas. They have been working on the route putting up tents and ropes. Tomorrow we plan to practice on some ropes near basecamp and review the medical and safety procedures with our team. The following day we plan to take an acclimatization walk to the advanced basecamp. Some members have still not arrived in basecamp and they are coming soon.

We heard that one of our team members, Perry, has decided to go back to Kathmandu. Apparently he wasn't feeling well and was having some difficulty with his lungs. We wish him well and will miss him.

There are several other teams here in basecamp. So far we have been discussing how to work together on the route and in the camps. Hopefully we are going to have some really good weather and be able to climb this mountain. So far the weather has been kind of mixed, but we've had some good days. So wish us luck and we'll be in touch soon. Thank you very much. Bye, bye. back to top

5 October, 2007

Our advanced basecamp at 5,500 metres/18,150 feet. We have a cook here who prepares hot drinks and food to keep us healthy (Chris Kinny from Australia).

Hello. I hope you are well. We have arrived at Namche Bazaar, the capital of the Sherpa World at 3,445 metres/11,300 feet, and are having a rest day.

Yesterday was a beautiful and sunny day and we walked here from our last night's camp in the village of Phakding. Two days before we flew to the Lukla airport after spending a couple of days in Kathmandu and organising things. Tomorrow we plan to trek up to the 4,000 metre/13,120 foot high village of Pangboche. back to top

This photo shows the prayer cerremony for good luck at the nearest village called Pangboche. This is the highest Buddhist cleric blessing one of our team members.

Paul Hickman, Ama Dablam Leader-in-Training writes:

We had a wonderful breakfast in Phakding before departing on the 5-8 hour trek to Namche Bazaar. The trek was amazing as we crossed swing bridges and dodged yaks (not always successfully) along the trail. There are several teahouses along the way where members stopped to take in the views while hydrating. Some of the members were fortunate enough to have views of Everest and Nuptse. The hardest part of the trek was at the end of the trip where we trekked up "Namche Hill", which adds the greatest elevation gain and also seems to go on forever.

Once in Namche we met up with several of the members that originally left Kathmandu a couple of days prior to the main group. Most had beer and pizza at the Everest Bakery. A few even stayed out to enjoy the nightlife in a local bar.

Last night it rained for about 2 hours and we are hoping that it's localized. The visibility is rather poor today due to the low clouds.

Part of our group are staying in tents and the other part are in one of the local guest houses. A few of the members are dealing with chest infections, but as a whole everyone is healthy.

This is Paul Hickman from The SummitClimb signing off. Send us positive thoughts and good weather! back to top

3 October, 2007

On 3 October, a large part of our team flew to Lukla on a 40 minute flight on this 18 seat twin-otter propeller plane. It was an exciting flight. back to top

Here we are enjoying a comfortable teahouse in Lukla right after our arrival from Kathmandu.

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Yaks crossing the Jorsalle suspension bridge on the way to Namche Bazaar. This bridge is located just on the other side of Mt. Everest National Park. back to top

Our trek team is having fun on the way to Namche Bazaar. What a great group!

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2 October, 2007

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All members have arrived with all of their bags. The weather has been beautiful for the last few days. Kathmandu is very peaceful and at its best.

About half of our members (those who arrived early) have already departed for Lukla and are beginning their trek to basecamp. After a few days of exploring Kathmandu, most members are ready to get to the mountain, so they set off early with our sherpas. Our advanced team is due to arrive in basecamp tomorrow am. The team includes Eyal as leader with 5 sherpas and 40 yaks. They called from Namche last night and said everything is going well.

The rest of us plan to fly to Lukla tomorrow. We are very excited to get started after many days of preparation.

Today we are having our final expedition team briefing and orientation.

Wish us luck, we will stay in touch.

Thank you very much. Yours Sincerely from Dan Mazur and all of us at SummitClimb.com

Ps. I have attached a photo taken during the breifing. We are watching a beautiful Ama Dablam video taken during by Florin and Coco, who made the first Romanian ascent of Ama Dablam during our 2005 expedition. back to top

24 September, 2007

Greetings to all from summitclimb's Ama Dablam team.

 

Please tell all of your friends and family to watch for dispatches in our recent news section of the website.

Todays is the first one, so it should be up shortly. Thanks for your patience.

Our team is packing for their Journey and the official starting date is 1 October. We are excited for the climb!

 

Our three leaders and three leaders in training will be staying at the nepa-beijing hotel, where our offices are located. The other team members will be divided between the nirvana garden hotel, the annapurna hotel, and the nepa-beijing hotel.

 

Please be sure to notify our staff of your room and hotel name/phone number upon arrival. We do need your passport on arrival in order to make the permit. In addition, please plan to meet for dinner each evening at around 6:30. We wish to review your equipment as soon as possible. We will have an official group orientation on 2 october at 8am.

 

Please keep the questions coming. back to top

 

Team Roster:

  • James Adamson, basic + trekking and basecamp, no high altitude
  • Perry Beck : full-service
  • Matt Belman : full-service
  • Larry Boersma : full-service
  • Kelly Confer : Leader-in-training
  • Adam Dixon : full-service
  • Tony Dudman : full-service
  • John Ellis : full-service
  • Sean Foxcroft : Leader-in-training
  • Joanne Goodson basic + basecamp + high altitude (no trek)
  • Elling Heiberg : full-service
  • Paul Hickman : Leader-in-training
  • Tag Hovland : full-service
  • Anders Jacobsen : full-service
  • Stein Palmer Johansen : full-service
  • Andrew Lawfield : full-service
  • Henry Liu : full-service
  • Dan Mazur : leader
  • Stuart McDonald : full-service
  • Nico Merciny : basic + trekking + basecamp (no high altitude)
  • Bram Munnichs : basic + high altitude
  • Martina Nolan : full-service
  • Wes O'Neil : basic only
  • Ben Palmer : basic only
  • Frank Prat : full-service
  • Brian Rolfson : full-service
  • Bjørn Rygnestad : full-service
  • Eric Elliot : full-service
  • Doug Sandok : leader
  • Logan Talbot : basic + trekking and basecamp, no high altitude
  • Dante Taylor : full-service
  • Ken Tranter : basic + basecamp + high altitude (no trek)
  • Guy Van Gool : basic + trekking + basecamp (no high altitude)
  • Griet Veris : full-service
  • Lars Wegge : full-service
  • Eyal Wigderson : leader back to top

Climbing Staff Roster:

  • Lakpa Gyaluk Sherpa
  • Gyaljen Sherpa
  • Shera Sherpa
  • Tenjin Sherpa
  • Lakpa Kormu Sherpa
  • Pasang Gyalu Sherpa
  • Jangbu Sherpa (Tenjin Sherpa's cousin)
  • Jangbu Sherpa
  • Pemba Sherpa
  • Pasang Sherpa
  • Kaji Tamang back to top

Kitchen staff:

  • Jay Bahadur
  • Temba Sherpa
  • Dorje Gurung
  • Kipa Sherpa
  • Doc Bahadur
  • Mila Rai
  • Tikka Rai

Administrative Roster:

...
Ama Dablam
  • Climb Asia's most famous technical but climbable rock, ice, and snow peak.
  • Ama Dablam 6,812 metres / 22,349 feet
  • 1 October to 1 November. 32 days in Nepal in 2007, 2008, and 2009
  • Full Service Cost: $4950, £2450, €3650; Basic Climb Cost: $1450, £750, €1050.

Introduction-

Our expedition offers an opportunity to climb this challenging semi-technical rock-ice-snow climb with an experienced team, at an affordable price. We have organized eight previous expeditions to Ama Dablam, so our leaders and staff are very familiar with the climb.

We will place several camps on the mountain, allowing us to acclimate a little bit at a time. Basecamp is located at 4,650 metres/15,300 feet, on a gorgeous grassy plateau, where many types of birds are abundant, and stunning views of the neighboring peaks and Ama Dablam abound. We walk in our leather boots on grass and dirt to advanced base at 5,500 metres/18,100 feet, where we will have one of our skillful cooks. We walk over large boulders, again in our leather boots, to Camp 1 at 5,700 metres/18,800 feet, where another of our skillful cooks will be working. Having these cooks at altitude is a real key to member's success, keeping everyone well fed and hydrated. The route to Camp 2 at 6000 metres/19,800 feet, is nearly all top-quality very solid easy granite rock scrambling with just 6 metres, 20 feet of French Class 4, British severe, North American 5.5 class easy rock. Most members do this part of the climb in their leather boots. Above camp 2, we put on plastic boots and crampons, and as we get higher we encounter more easy snow, ice, and mixed sections, until we reach 6,300 metres/20,800 feet, camp 3, a beautiful flat snow field with stunning views of Everest, Nuptse, Cho Oyu, Pumori, Shishapangma, etcetera. Summit day is on very easy (but steep at times) 20-50 degree snow. We will fix rope throughout the climb for safety.

NOTE: Please don’t underestimate this climb. Although there is only one 6 metre, 20 foot section of grade French 4, British severe, or North America 5.5, (the rest of the climb is known as "scrambling" or "4th class") there are complicating factors which you may not find at home on your local crag and definitely not in the rock-gym. These may include: ice, snow, high-altitude, temperature, weather, exposure, etcetera. Thank you for considering this climb carefully. back to top

Some facts about Ama Dablam-

Ama Dablam is in the Khumbu valley, near Mt. Everest, in the heart of the Sherpa area of Nepal, and is considered by many to be the most famous rock-ice-snow climb in all Asia. The name Ama Dablam means Mother’s Charm Box: the high hanging serac located just below the summit resembling the Dablam or Charm Box, which unmarried Sherpa women used to wear around their necks. The first ascent of the mountain was by Ed Hillary's Silver Hut expedition in 1961 when Bishop (USA), Gill, Romanes (NZ) and Ward (UK) reached the summit, via the SW ridge, on 13 March after 20 days working on the route. Since then the mountain has received more than 500 ascents (not including Sherpas) mostly via the SW ridge. back to top

Why the South West Ridge-

Here is what one of our previous top climb leaders (Jonathan Pratt, from Essex, England) had to say about the route:

“The easiest way to the top of Ama Dablam is via the SW ridge, a semi-technical route, and considered to be the standard route. Although there are several other routes on the mountain, they are all very much harder than the SW ridge. The route has been considered to be a safe route, free from objective danger, such as avalanche. It is a varied and interesting route with loads of superb climbing - not just a huge snow slog, unlike other Himalayan climbs. On Ama Dablam, the rock and ice is not sustained but tends to come in short manageable sections.” back to top

Lorenz Eugster from Bern jumaring Sterling rope that we just fixed above the red tower (Dan Mazur). Climbers approaching the grey tower at 6,050 metres/20,000 feet, October 2005. The route follows the right-hand snow ramp. Rick Coleman from Vancouver, British Columbia took this photo, and he says: "The guys identified as "climbers on the Grey Tower" are actually Doug Sandok (our 2005 Leader - In - Training from Colorado and Wisconsin) first with the red pants, and Mor Doron from Israel next". Samuli Mansikka and Tuomas Sovijarvi, both from Finland, on the summit in 2005. Thats Everest and Lhotse through the clouds behind.

Dan to ABC, Ama Dablam in background. Photographer: Tom Proctor from Indiana. Our nightly radio call on the South West Ridge. Photographer: Robert Chang from California. back to top


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