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Everest Nepal and Lhotse Expedition 2007

(photo by Fabrice Imparato)
Everest Nepal and Lhotse Expedition
29 March to 6 June 2007
View our links for more information about our upcoming Everest Nepal and Lhotse expeditions
 
 
 
Note Regarding May 15th, 2007 Dispatch-
 
 
Hi there. I am very sorry that I may have made a mistake. While I was in the teahouse for 30 minutes, Bear Grylis might have had time to fly over the top of Everest. How would I know, I am a mountain climber not a pilot and never flown one of these contraptions. So I am very sorry if I could have have made a mistake. Please excuse me if I have done so. Thank you very much.Yours Sincerely, Dan

05/27/07-

Dan reports in live (click here to listen)

5-27 Dan Mazur Everest Lhotse transcript 22

This is Dan, with the SummitClimb Everest Lhotse Nepal dispatch for the 27th of May. This morning at about 8:00 in the morning we put Paul Fitzpatrick on a helicopter. A Nepal Army helicopter landed in the Base Camp and picked up Paul. Paul rode the helicopter today with a bottle of oxygen in his lap and an oxygen mask on his face. He has pulmonary edema and pneumonia, which was diagnosed by the Himalayan Rescue Association Clinic doctors. Paul spent several days in the clinic in Base Camp trying to get better. And he did improve, although still not enough to be able to walk out under his own power. He rode that army helicopter to Katmandu where he's going to go to the Sewek Katmandu Clinic where they will take excellent care of him I'm sure.

There is a national strike in Katmandu today, so there is no transportation available except for emergency transport, which is lucky in Paul's case because he'll be riding around in an ambulance. We wish Paul all the best and we're going to miss him and hope he recovers well. The rest of our team is trekking down to Namche today. OK, we're just packing up Base Camp now, and that's the end of our expedition. Thank you very much for following our news. Thank you, bye bye.

05/25/07-

Dan reports in live (click here to listen)

5-25 Dan Mazur Everest Lhotse transcript 21

Hi this is Dan calling from the Nepal Everest Lhotse SummitClimb Expedition.

Today is the 25th of May and the local time is 10:50pm. All of our team is back safely in Base Camp, that's all the members and all the Sherpas. And it was a long and challenging day, it took us more than 10 hours to get back to Base Camp. One of our members Paul is in the Base Camp hospital. He has pulmonary edema and pneumonia, and we hope that he gets better soon.

We are planning to begin our trek out back to Katmandu starting tomorrow, and our Sherpas are going to go back up to the upper camps and remove them and carry out all of the equipment and all of the rubbish that's accumulated and clean up the place very well.

We hope Paul gets better as soon as possible, I'm very hopeful. He's in the care of some excellent doctors here in the Base Camp. I will update you as soon as possible, perhaps on email. Thanks again for watching our expedition. OK, take care, bye bye.

05/24/07-

Dan reports in live (click here to listen)

5-24 Dan Mazur Everest-Lhotse transcript 20

Hi, this is Dan from the SummitClimb Nepal Everest-Lhotse Expedition. It's May 24th and the time is 6:47pm local time. I'm calling from Camp 2 and I'm here in Camp 2 with Terry, Bill, Paul, Dan, Tenje, Lhakpa Galu, Lhakpa Congle , Lhakpa Congle . It was a beautiful sunset this evening, and we're planning on going down tomorrow, starting at 6:00 in the morning. We plan to go all the way to Base Camp. We're going to try to leave early to fight the heat down in the Icefall, which has been apparently playing havoc with the route and the ladders, so we want to try to get down through there before it gets too warm.

It's with mixed feelings that we leave this camp. Some of us are more ready to leave than others. It took a lot of work to get here, and we're going to miss this place. Some of us are gonna miss it more than others, I guess.

I'll update you with the news when we're back in Base Camp. Thank you very much for following our expedition, bye bye.

Our expedition team is

Dan Mazur. USA.
Philip Ling. Australia.
Bruce Manning. England
Florin Grama. Romania
Daniel Kim. USA
Mark Luscher. USA
Bill Burke. USA.
Paul Fitzpatrick. USA.
Terry Schuck. USA

Our Sherpa team is

Lhakpa Chiri. Personal Sherpa to Mark Luscher Lhakpa Congle. Climbing Sherpa Phuri Sherpa. Climbing Sherpa Tenje Sherpa. Personal Sherpa to Bill Burke Lhakpa Galu. Personal Sherpa to Terry Kaji Sherpa. Sirdar Jai Bar-Dur. Cook Dawa Jangbu Sherpa. High altitude porter Lhakpa Tundu Sherpa. Climbing Sherpa and Camp 2 cook.

Temba Sherpa. Kitchen staff

05/23/07-

Dan reports in live (click here to listen)

5-24 Dan Mazur Everest Lhotse transcript 19

Hi this is Dan calling for the SummitClimb Nepal Everest Lhotse Expedition.

Today is the 23rd of May and the local time is 8:20pm. Bill and Terry and Lhakpa Galu and Tenzing came down here to Camp 2 today and we all had dinner together. Paul is still here in Camp 2 resting, trying to recover from his fatigue after summating Lhotse. Dan is here as well. Bruce went down to Base Camp today and arrived safely. Phil is in Lukla today. I will update you with further progress of our expedition. Thank you very much, bye bye.

05/22/07-

Dan reports in live (click here to listen)

5-22 Dan Mazur Everest Lhotse transcript 19-Everest Summits!

This is Dan calling from the SummitClimb Nepal Everest-Lhotse Expedition.

Today is the 22nd of May and the time is 10:20pm local time. Where should I start? Let me tell you the most important thing. We heard on a radio call today that Terry and Lhakpa Galu Reached the Everest at about 9:00am. And we heard that Bill and Tenji turned around, Bill just 20 meters below the summit of Everest, because they felt that it was too windy. That was at about 12:45pm.

From our Lhotse Expedition, Bruce is back in Camp 2. Dan and Paul came down from from Camp 4 down to Camp 2, it took about 10 hours today and that was an interesting and exciting travel and some challenge.

On a sad note, we saw the famous Dawa Sherpa.leading a group of Sherpas dragging the body of the deceased climber Pema Doma Sherpa who fell off Lhotse yesterday afternoon. That was very horrible and tragic.

Phil is back down in Base Camp. Our plan is to wait here tomorrow for the arrival of the Everest team and we'll keep you posted about further developments. Thank you very much, bye bye.

05/21/07-

Dan reports in live (click here to listen)

5-21 Dan Mazur Everest-Lhotse transcript 18-Lhotse summits

Hi this is Dan calling from the SummitClimb Nepal Everest-Lhotse Expedition.

I'm very sorry about my voice. We're up in the high camp. Our members summated Lhotse today. Bruce and Paul did a great job reaching the summit at about 12:30 in the afternoon. Phil decided he didn't want to go because he would've had to use oxygen for the climb and Dan stayed at the base of the summit at about 8400 meters to support the team.

Bill and Terry, our Everest climbers, are over in the high camp today on the South Col on an attempt of Everest, with their Sherpas Lakpa Galu and Tenzing. They might take a rest day tomorrow, or they might go for the summit. There was a tragedy today. A woman trying to become the first Nepalese woman to try to climb Lhotse tragically fell off of Lhotse with her Sherpa.

05/20/07-

Dan reports in live (click here to listen)

5-20 Dan Mazur Everest-Lhotse transcript 17

Hi, this is Dan from the Nepal SummitClimb Everest-Lhotse Expedition. I'm in the high camp with our Lhotse team. We plan to go for the summit at 3:00 in the morning on the 21st. Today is the 20th and the time is 7:40pm. The Everest team is down in Camp 3, that's Bill and Terry with their Sherpas.
We'll keep you updated. Thank you very much, bye bye.

05/19/07-

Dan reports in live (click here to listen)

05/18/07-

Dan reports in live (click here to listen)

5-18 Dan Mazur Everest-Lhotse transcript 16

This is Dan, I'm calling with the SummitClimb Nepal Everest-Lhotse Expedition. Today is the 18th of May and it's 7:25pm local time. The four of us on the Lhotse team had a rest day today in Camp 2. Our plan is to move up to Camp 3 tomorrow. We have three Sherpas supporting us. I spoke with Bill, he's down in Camp 1 with his Sherpa Tenzing. Terry is down in Base Camp with his Sherpa Lakpa Galu. Their plan is to come up to Camp 2 tomorrow and then maybe take a rest day or maybe proceed directly to Camp 3.

We plan to summit on the 21st and the 22nd. We will keep you posted. Thank you very much, bye bye.

05/16/07-

we are very sad that one of our everest members is leaving. we are really going to miss mark luscher. he is a super great guy and a very strong climber. unfortunately the top of his stomach would not close so the contents kept coming out, no matter what all of the various doctors in the khumbu tried to do. all of us are going to miss mark a lot and we wish him and his family the best of luck. namaste!

05/15/07-

well, a couple days ago we all went down to 3950 metre high pangboche village to breath some thicker air and had 1 full rest day. then, we hiked back up to basecamp and arrived last evening.

on the way back up to basecamp, i was in pheriche village yesterday morning, trying to find the doctor to get some more stomach pills for one of our members when i heard an awful racket and saw a parachute circling overhead.

i recognisd it as one of those motorised parachute things i saw circling over the summit of everest in 2004. however this one was circling over the pheriche plateau. then, another one of these extremely loud parachutes went up and was twirling around like a lawngarden tractor that had lost its silencer. then we found the doctor who showed us a paddock with a mare that had just foaled that morning and while we wondered at the beauty of creation and the spindly legs of the new born foal, these obnoxious parchute garden tractor things were twirling around in the sky. there were a few eye brow raised comments exchanged about a new competition to see who could make the most noise and that everest was a non selective magnet attracting anyone to do anything. while the yaks munched on grass, and the doctor prescribed some more pills, the parachuting lawn tractor things went high above the plateau and their buzzing noise pollution grew less and we were able to take our fingers out of our ears and go about our business. i went into the teahouse where we had stayed the evening before and had a nice 30 minute or so conversation with todd greene from www.everestspeakersbureau.com .

then, i put on my rucksack and started walking up to basecamp. as i walked along the trail traversing the edge of the pheriche plateau, i saw a parachute coming down out of the corner of my eye, and a person sitting in a chair hanging from it.

I noticed the motor was switched off and i said to myself "thank heavens, that racket is over", and continued along my way. i kept going and then, before i knew it, this parachute was coming directly at me, and then suddenly it hit me. luckily the chair thing missed me by 15 feet or so, but the strings and canopy of the chute partially enveloped me. i figured this was unusual enough to take a picture so i did. here are two photos. the first shows the fellow when he just landed, struggling to take off his kit.

 

as soon as he did, he shouted in english: "I did it, I did it!". I replied to him: "what did you do?" He said "I flew as high as everest". I thought to myself at the time, I am not sure how high you flew, but, you didnt fly over everest, because you never left the area above the pheriche plateau, as far as i could tell, and anyway, i already saw someone do that, very loudly, in 2004. then, the pilot asked me if i would please get out from under his parachute....

In retrospect, now that i think about it, he looked like he had a lot of fun, and was very excited, so it must have been quite an adrenaline rush. Also, in retrospect, it took him quite a while to pull a massive wad of cotton or something out of his ears, so i dont think its a very good idea to do this sport more than once, as you have this giant motor strapped to your back and its kind of like being hog-tied to a lawn-garden tractor that has lost its muffler-silencer. also, i am not sure this sport is really good for your physical body, especially your knees, because you are strapped into a chair and you can see that upon landing he skidded onto his knees, maybe hitting a few rocks, maybe splitting some kneecaps. in the first photo you can see the parachute strings going around me, while i am holding the camera. in the second photo, you can see the chair and fan blade motor contraption, with the parchute lawn-garden-tractor pilot (I found out later his name was Mr. Baregrill and he came from a group of 45 trekkers camped on a ridge above Pheriche) dancing around behind it, shouting: "I did it, I did it!"

In the third photo I have attached, a litle further up the trail the same day, just before 5200 metre Gorak Shep, an injured sherpa swaddled in plastic rubbish sacks, sits in a basket, carried by a porter. The injured Sherpa is moaning a continuous refrain of pain with each step take by the porter carrying him: "Umm Ummm Ughhh, Ughhh, Ummm, Agghh, Ughhh, Aghhhh". I was awestruck and afraid as I saw these people coming toward me. I could tell the sherpa was in a lot of pain and asked if I could help, and they said no, that they were rushing to get the injured sherpa down to the hospital at Pheriche as soon as possible. Every twenty or steps, the porter would put the basket containing the moaning sherpa down on a boulder, and ask in Nepali if he was ok. The injured sherpa would stop moaning for a second and mumble something, then the porter would pick up the basket again and continue carrying it. I asked what was wrong with the sherpa and the porter said "altitude sickness". I thought I should go down with these two guys and try to help, but then a group of trekkers came along and they said they were helping get the sherpa down, so I thought better of it and decided the sherpa was being well looked after and my duties were with my team of everest and lhotse climbers, up in Gorak Shep and basecamp. I prayed for god to help that porter and do now. I hope he is ok.

So, what a journey back to basecamp it was yesterday, first getting hit by a lawn garden tractor parachute driven by Mr. Baregrill over the the Pheriche Plateau shouting: "I did it, I did it!" and blowing everyone's ears out, including his own, and then, secondly, seeing this injured sherpa being carried in a basket by a porter, moaning in pain: "Umm Ummm Ughhh, Ughhh, Ummm, Agghh, Ughhh, Aghhhh". Its hard for me to put these two visions of people I met on the way up to Everest basecamp into perspective.

Our team plans to work our way up the mountain and try for the summit during the third week of may, around the 21st or so. There seems to be a lot of uncertainty about the weather here in basecamp. There are numerous forcasts from at least four different countries. Today for fun I visited a camp of a team of 24 climbers. All of the climbers are still in basecamp, even though many of them announced they would go up a week or more ago and summit today or tomorrow. i guess they changed their minds.

to begin the conversation with this team, i enquired as to the status of equipment we had contributed to the common cause. I asked if they had fixed any of the rope we had given them to aid in joint efforts of climbing the mountain. the answer was no. i asked if they had used the oxygen we had given so their sherpas could climb safely and fix rope on oxygen. the answer was no. i asked if they knew where the oxygen and rope was. they said they thought it was in the high camp, which is 1 camp above where we had given it to them in camp 3. i asked if any other teams had contributed. they said 1 team had given rope and oxygen in basecamp but there was no way to carry this particular contribution of rope and oxygen above basecamp.

then we moved on to the weather. they said the weather might be good now or on the 20th, so they might fix rope then. they said the weather was supposed to be calm on the 21st, and they might go for the summit then. they said the sherpa calendar says the 22nd is an unlucky day. they said the wind is supposed to start blowing after the 24th.

so it seems there is not a lot of certainty about when to climb everest. it seems to be far from an exact science.

thanks for listening. we will keep you informed about our progress. yours sincerely, from dan and all of us at summitclimb.com

05/13/07-

Here is the dispatch for 13 may: lhotse-everest summitclimb expedition.

HAPPY MOTHER'S DAY. TO ALL OUR MOTHERS FROM ALL OF US KIDS. THANKS FOR HAVING US!!!!

...

here is a picture taken in dingboche at 4200 metres, on our last low altitude acclimatization day. from left to right:

Dean Cardinale (summitclimb amadablam 2002), Mark Luscher (summitclimb everest 2007), Bill Burke (summitclimb everest 2007), Todd Greene (everestspeakersbureau.com), Dan Mazur (leader summitclimb lhotse-everest 2007).

we are on our way up, hopefully to the summit. please wish us luck. thanks.

05/12/07-

sometimes its hard to know when to go for the summit. bob jen, in the photo attached thinks he has the answer. he went to visit the buddhist lama in pangboche village. lama geshe looked up some calculations in some tibetan prayer books, lit some incense, chanted some incantations, pulled out this piece of rice paper, made some calculations with his biro, and wrote down the number 20. thus, bob is going for the summit on the 20th of may!

walking down for rest days from basecamp to pangboche, we had to cross dugla hill. this is the resting place for many memorials to fallen climbers who have died on everest. here bruce passes a monument to babu chiri sherpa, one of nepal's most famous climbers, who died while taking a photograph, falling into a crevasse, in camp 2 on everest.

it rained and snowed today for most of the day here in pangboche. then this afternoon late, the clouds parted to reveal the majestic snow covered flanks of lhotse (south face) on the right, and nuptse on the right.

the attached photo shows summitclimb.com ama dablam expedition members Hugh McGilveray and Harry Thomas standing in front of their nemesis, 6812 metre high Mount Ama Dablam. i took it today at 2:00 pm in pangboche village.

our everest and lhotse team members are down here resting in this pleasant 4000 metre yak and potato farming village with a lovely river and birch-rhododendron forest. taking a low altitude rest in the "forest zone" was a russian acclimatization technique first introduced by my dearly departed friend anatoli boukreev who i first climbed everest with in 1991. for more about that awful expedition, please search on "of friends and romans" on www.everestnews.com

while lhotse team member bruce manning and i were sitting outside enjoying the first rain-free day we have had in some time, hugh and harry appeared mysteriously out of the cloud.

we regret to inform that hugh and harry's summitclimb ama dablam expedition ended in total failure with gobs of snow, cloud, and the very sad daily phenomenon of the ropes being snowed over, then frozen into the ice. each morning, the team was treated to the horrid site of the ropes frozen into inch thick blue ice, and they were unable to chop the ropes out for neither love nor money. all 4 teams that tried withdrew from ama dablam's normal route (the southwest ridge) this spring, and no one has summitted the route this spring.

in well-deserved abject disgust, Hugh and Harry went off and climbed a few other local peaks, including Island and Pokalde, and reached both summits in total fog and cloud. on their post ama dablam failure trek, they crossed the famed Kongma-La pass, saw a few lovely lakes, and visited the tiny sherpa village of Lobuche.

i guess climbing is like that sometimes, leading you down twists and turns in the road, into dead ends and one-way lanes, and out the other side in disheveled order.

hugh and harry told funny and charming stories about their expedition to ama dablam, with a team that worked well and laughed and climbed safely together, led by veteran summitclimb leader Jay Reilly.

the pair stomped off into the sunshine headed for kathmandu at 2:30pm today.
overall, they seemed fairly happy about the way things turned out on ama dablam. i suppose bittersweet would be more apropos.

in any case, because all of us at summitclimb.com feel badly about the weather being so awful, we would like to extend them a 50 percent discount on their next expedition to ama dablam, the grandmother mountain of the khumbu valley.

for now, we wish them all luck in their next goal: the annapurna circuit in a weeks time with their father.

nota bene: in the photo, maybe you can see a bit of ama dablam's summit, but quite a bit of it is obscured by cloud.

as you go off to uni this autumn, hugh and harry, i hope you will be able to appreciate both the clouds and a bit of the true summit shining through.

best wishes from dan mazur and all of us at summitclimb.com

05/11/07-

in this photo we can see paul and bruce and lhakpa preparing to ascend to the yellow band for acclimatisation purposes. this is our camp 3 on the lhotse face at 7300 metres elevation. in the foreground you can clearly see the ripped open tent that was smashed by the avalanche, and in the backround, on the valley flo0r, the long strip that is camp 2 wioth the more than 100 tents of so many expeditions, at 6400 metres. on the horizon is cho oyu, 6th highest peak in the world at 8200 metres.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
in this photo, taken at c2 at 6400 metres, we have our trusty sherpa lakpa kongle, who is our lhotse team sherpa. lhakpa has climbed more than 20 peaks for summit climb. he is the father of ten children, four of whom died due to childhood illnesses that the mt. everest foundation for sustainable development is trying to put a stop to with its rural health clinic program.
lakpa is holding a radio given to him by ama dablam 2006 team member patrick millegan. lakpa loves the radio and dancing to nepalese music. he is a very strong sherpa. everything you see in this photo he carried up here on his back. on the right side are some of the more than 50 oxygen bottles we will use for our ascent. the oxygen will be used by both our foriegn team members and our climbing sherpas. the tent is a special for season ozark tent brought to us from tibet by summit climb leader jon otto.
 
 
 
 
in the attached photo showing left to right:
roberto, fausto, blair, and dawa (ang tsering's son)
we are having a meeting of the lhotse teams about fixing rope. a lot of teams dont want to help fix rope but are happy to climb on it if its there. very dissapointing commentary on the current state of human nature in the mountains. all we can say is may god help them.
 
 

05/10/07-

This is Philip Ling with the latest news from the Summitclimb Everest / Lhotse expedition 2007.

Our whole team is now back in Everest basecamp after our latest, and last, acclimatization foray up the mountain. We plan to go up the mountain just one more time and when we do we will be aiming for the summits of Everest, 8848m and Lhotse, 8516m.

Here is a summary of the past few days since our last dispatch.

On the 3rd of May 2007 our whole climbing team accompanied by our Sherpas, climbed back up through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1. As usual, the route through the icefall had changed, due to old crevasses closing, new crevasses opening and blocks of ice collapsing!

The following morning, the 4th of May, Daniel Kim felt unwell and decided to return to basecamp.

The rest of us climbed up to Camp 2 where we spent the night.

The next morning, the 5th of May, our Lhotse team consisting of Daniel Mazur, Philip Ling, Bruce Manning and Paul Fitzpatrick, accompanied by Lhakpa Congle Sherpa, climbed up to Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face at around 7350m. Phuri Sherpa, also on the Lhotse team, went ahead of us to deposit a tent at the base of the Lhotse Couloir at around 8000m at what will become Lhotse Camp 4. During our climb up the Lhotse Face, Daniel Kim called on the radio and sadly informed us that he was still feeling unwell and decided to end his expedition and return to Kathmandu.

Our Everest climbers took a rest day in Camp 2.

The next morning, the 6th of May, and after a windy start, the Lhotse team climbed above Camp 3 to an altitude of around 7650m on the Lhotse Face, just below the Yellow Band, as an acclimatization hike in preparation for our summit push. We then descended back to Camp 2 where we spent the night before returning to basecamp the following day.

On the same day as we climbed above Camp 3, our Everest team consisting of Bill Burke, Mark Luscher, and Terry Schuck, along with their Tenje Sherpa, Lhakpa Chiri Sherpa and Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa, departed Camp 2 and climbed up to Camp 3 where they spent the night. The following morning, Terry Schuck and Lhakpa Gelu also climbed above Camp 3 towards the Yellow Band before descending to Camp 2, while Mark and Bill descended immediately back to Camp
2 with their Sherpas. They all spent the night in Camp 2 before descending to basecamp yesterday.

Tomorrow, the 10th of May, we will all head down the valley to the lower villages of Pheriche and surrounding villages for a ‘holiday’, to enjoy the thicker oxygen at these lower altitudes which will allow our bodies to rest and recover somewhat prior to us returning to basecamp and beginning our summit attempts. Although these dates are very tentative at this stage, it seems our Lhotse team will depart basecamp for the summit around the 15th of May, and our Everest team will depart basecamp for the summit around the 17th of May. These dates are of course not yet fixed and are dependent on the weather etc, but will give you some idea of what to expect.

As on all long expeditions, climbers start talking about the first things they will do and eat once they return to ‘civilisation’, and this team is no exception. Burger King, KFC, steak and chips were topping the list, but only until I described my mum’s (Helen Ling), roast lamb with mint sauce and baked potatoes. (Hi mum!)

Philip Ling on behalf of Summitclimb.com.

05/08/07-

Dan reports in live (click here to listen)

5-8 Dan Mazur Everest-Lhotse transcript 15

This is Dan calling from the SummitClimb Nepal Everest-Lhotse Expedition. Today is the 8th of May and the time is 9:10pm local time. All members and all Sherpas have returned safely to Base Camp. And we’ll update you further in the next few days. Thank you very much, bye bye.

05/07/07-

Dan reports in live (click here to listen)

5-7 Dan Mazur Everest-Lhotse transcript 14

Hi, this is Dan calling from the SummitClimb Nepal Lhotse-Everest Expedition. Today is the 7th of May and it’s 7:15pm local time. This morning three of our members—Bruce, Paul and Phil went down together with Jangbu Sherpa from Camp 2 and they returned to Base Camp safely at 3:00 in the afternoon. Three of our members came down from Camp 3 down to Camp 2. That would be Mark, Bill, and Terry, and all of us are down here at Camp 2 today. We plan on leaving early in the morning and heading back to Base Camp, where we’ll have some rest days and then our Sherpas will continue working on the route preparing the high camps and getting all of our oxygen, supplies and food and fuel et cetera up into the high camps.

Today was a pretty good day, pretty warm. There was bad weather up high on the mountain. There was a large group of Sherpas tried to reach the high camps today and as far as we could tell they turned around somewhere below the Yellow Band, which the same happened yesterday also. A few Sherpas did get through we heard. But mostly they’re waiting for better weather, which is supposed to happen around the 9th of May from what we hear. So we’ll keep you informed, and thank you very much. Bye bye.

05/06/07-

Dan reports in live (click here to listen)

5-6 Dan Mazur Everest-Lhotse transcript 13

This is Dan calling with the SummitClimb dispatch for the Nepal Everest-Lhotse. Today is the 6th of May and it is 5:15pm local time. Last night our Lhotse group as it remains spent the night at Camp 3 and this morning we got up early and tried to go out the tent and climb up a little higher but there were some very high winds. We went out again at about 9am and then we worked our way clear to the Yellow Band on Everest. Then we came back down to Camp 2 where we are spending the night resting and recuperating.

The Everest team is up at Camp 3 currently—three members with three Sherpas. They seem to be doing alright. They plan to hike up above Camp 3 tomorrow if all goes well.

05/05/07-

Dan reports in live (click here to listen)

5-5 Dan Mazur Everest-Lhotse transcript 12

Hi this is Dan, calling with a dispatch from the SummitClimb Nepal-Everest-Lhotse Expedition. Today is the 5th of May. The time is 3:05pm local time. I’m calling you from Camp 3 at 7300 meters. I’m up here at Camp 3 together with Paul, Phil, Bruce, myself and our Sherpa Lhakpa Congle. Mark, Bill, Terry and their three Sherpas decided to take a rest day down in Camp 2 today. The weather was pretty good today although very hot, although it is snowing right now.

Our plans for tomorrow are to go up to Camp 4 if we feel up to it and try to get as high on the mountain as we can and then come back down to Camp 2. I have some bad news to report. Daniel Kim left the expedition this morning. I had a very sad radio conversation with him during which he was crying on the radio saying that he can’t seem to feel better here so he went down back to Katmandu with the Sherpa Nima. We’re going to miss Daniel very much, we’re very sad that he’s leaving the expedition and also he was our expedition doctor and he’s gone now. Luckily there’s still a small hospital at Base Camp in case of any emergencies. OK, thank you very much, bye.

05/04/07-

Dan reports in live (click here to listen)

5-4 Dan Mazur Everest-Lhotse transcript 11

Hi this is Dan from the SummitClimb Everest-Lhotse Expedition. Today is the 4th of May and the time is 1:12pm local time. We’re up at Camp 2 here. We’ve got 7 members and 7 Sherpas. One of our members, Daniel Kim, wasn’t feeling well this morning, so he went down together with Jangbu Sherpa back to Base Camp from Camp 1. He was complaining of a runny nose and a cough.

We just received word that 3 Koreans and 3 Sherpas climbed to the summit of Lhotse this morning and we’ve been asking our Sherpas a lot about it--where they got the information, is this really true and they seem very adamant that that did in fact happen. So that’s some pretty exciting news from this side. Our plan is to rest here today and enjoy some of the good food from our kitchen in Camp 2 and then early in the morning set off to Camp 3 and sleep the night there. Two of our Sherpas, Lhakpa and Phuri are up there setting up tents. They said that the camp was pretty well destroyed by an avalanche and one of our tents is beyond repair. But they’ve luckily brought some extra tents up there so hopefully everything is getting well situated for us for our climb tomorrow. It’s kind of cloudy here and it’s very warm. It’s kind of misty and we hope the weather improves. We’ve thought of a new name for the Western Cwm. We’ve decided to call it the Western Barbecue. OK, thank you, bye.

05/03/07-

Dan reports in live (click here to listen)

5-3 Dan Mazur Everest-Lhotse transcript 10

Today is the third of May and it is 5:43pm local time. We’re up here in Camp 1. We have all 8 members of our team and we have all 7 Sherpas. Three of our Sherpas are with us here at Camp 1, and four went up to Camp 2 to see if they could repair the damage from the windstorm and to get the camp set up for our arrival tomorrow.

Everybody’s feeling pretty good, it was kind of a hard day coming up here to Camp 1 today. It was especially hot, so we were kind of grateful that a big snow storm rolled in this afternoon and it’s gotten really cold and windy and snowed quite a bit.

05/01/07-

hello, I have attached a photo here of the italian team who came to our basecamp to visit and drop off their cargo today; and our basecamp sirdar kaji. are you able to see it? this photo was taken in our basecamp a few minutes ago. from left to right, appearing in the photo are:

roberto manni

fausto destafani

kaji tamang

sergio martini

only a few days ago, the italians sadly lost their sherpa dawa while he was climbing the lhotse face and killed by a piece of falling ice. may god rest his soul.

kaji, who is our basecamp sirdar, has kindly agreed to give the italians the use of two of our sherpas to help them re-establish themselves on the mountain after their tragic loss.

kaji is no stranger to tragedy. as a high altitude climbing sherpa he was nearly killed in 1999 in an avalanche on kangchenjunga when his knee was completely dislocated and his foot came up and hit him in the chin. since then he has had several surgeries, but has not been able to climb since.
nevertheless he has became a hell of a basecamp sirdar and we are deeply indebted to him. out of gratitude for his selfless service to foriegn climbers we are putting his three children through school, and his son lakpa has just earned his bachelor's degree.


04/29/07-

hi folks, this is dan mazur writing here. i am very sorry i have not written for so long. we were facing some challenges with our email but now thankfully it seems to be fixed. thanks to george and jack we are deeply indebted to you.

today was a bitersweet day, starting with an early flight to the basecamp helipad by a shiny deep green, precisely flown nepal army helicopter. we sadly watched as sergio martini and his team loaded the body of the deceased sherpa dawa onto the helicopter. we said our prayers for the fallen sherpa, then sergio came by and we reminisced about old times climbing together on gasherbrum 1 in 1994 with sergio and fausto destefani and jon pratt and andy collins and friends. the conversation brushed on many topics, rheinhold messner, the duke of abruzzi, john f kennedy, jackie kennedy, ricardo cassin, renato cassaroto, ardito desio, vittorio sella, jerzy kukuscka, and ended with sergio asking if we would provide a sherpa to his team, as they have now tragically lost theirs. we said of course we would and discussed how best to go about this with our sherpas who are currently restocking camp
2 after a big wind storm destroyed our c2 kitchen tent two nights ago.

mark luscher and his sherpa lakpa chirri came down from camp 3 before lunch, looking exhausted and happy. during the meal, mark related stories of lakpa motivating him to keep going, the wind storm where lakpa saved the almost blown away cook tent, the other team's destroyed tents in camp 2, and the tough march back down through the icefall to basecamp. mark said the icefall is ok as of now. thank god for that, as it was looking very scary and unstable when we came through the other day. i know our sherpas were really worried about it, so this should soothe their fears a bit. we are all very glad that mark and lakpa seem to be on our same schedule now, and that after a few more rest days, we will be able to climb together in one big group of
8 members and 7 sherpas like a team working and climbing together.

after lunch, bruce and dan went over to meet our basecamp neighbor ted, who makes a new kind of oxygen mask that everyone is raving about. we returned to our own team's dining tent to try out bruce's new mask and then dan got out our current masks and regulators and oxygen bottles and also produced another type of new mask and regulator made by his friend neil. just then, tom bell from the daily telegraph in london and his friend nilesh wandered in, and then we were joined by kaji, our loyal sirdar, and we proceeded to sit around the dining table and try out all three oxygen systems. it was quite a session of oxygenology, as it were, with everyone participating in their own unique way.

after the oxygen tryouts, tom proceeded to ask a thousand questions about everest basecamp. he also wanted to know about whats going on over on the tibet side, so we called up arnold coster, the tibet side leader, on the satphone and amazingly arnold answered the phone on the second try, so tom was able to conduct an interview of arnold on the spot. during the interview, tom was particularly interested in whats going on with the chinese olympic torch team that is practicing for the beijing 2008 olympics, when they are going to light the torch on the summit of everest and carry it all the way to beijing.

a few minutes later, our members daniel kim and philip ling joined in.
daniel talked about the amazingly busy eye hospital in kathmandu, and philip, when prompted for some gossip about the racier side of life in basecamp, said there werent a lot of sexy stories to tell as he had not seen many woman in basecamp of late. tom decided he wants to do a story on the famous khumbu icefall doctors, so we coralled our super-famous lead sherpa, mark's personal sherpa lakpa chirri, who knows everyone in basecamp, if not the entire khumbu valley, to take tom over to the icefall doctor's tent compound in basecamp.

just as tom was preparing to go, our own six sherpas came into the dining tent (which also serves as a storage and communication tent) and under sirdar kaji's supervision, started packing up for tonight's 4am trip up the icefall to camp 2, so the whole basecamp had an air of hustle and bustle about it. i hope tom did not get the wrong impression, as its usually a really sleepy and dull place.

now its evening time and our loyal cooks jay bahadur, temba and gyelzen are preparing another massive multi-course meal. last nights nine courses included soup, salad, popcorn, 3 vegetables, potatoes, rice, duck, and even a delicious freshly baked cake. I have no idea how our dynamo cooks do it, but they seem to be able to keep it up, producing sumptous repasts night after night from their tiny glacier bound canvas cook tent lit by candles. i had mistakenly thought we were having a slimming diet expedition and were going to lose weight. was i ever wrong on that score.

so thanks a lot for reading my ramblings, those of you who have made it to the bottom of this missive. thanks for watching our progress and please pray for everyone's health, safety, and success here on everest, for all the teams and sherpas and members (not only ours), that we all have safe and succesful expeditions. thank you very much and may god bless you and all, from our entire team. Thank you very much, i wish you were here! Yours Sincerely, Dan

04/28/07-

April 28, 2007

this is lhotse member daniel kim sending his greetings from everest basecamp. Today is saturday and the main group has just arrived from several days acclimatizing at camp number two, about 6400 meters. The weather has been fairly good, with sunny mornings and the usual afternoon light snow, although it has been pretty windy lately. Mark and his personal sherpa are now at camp 2.

Everest basecamp has changed somewhat since we arrived around april 7. The melting and shifting of the underlying glacier has remolded and rearranged the terrain noticeably. Also more teams have arrived to establish their camps. There could be over 400 tents here now. Large British and Korean groups are here, among many nationalities.

We plan to spend several days resting here in basecamp, cleaning up and washing clothes before we again depart for about one week on the next round of acclimatization. This will likely see us spending up to two nights sleeping at camp three, which has not yet been fully established, but will likely be about 7200 – 7400 meters. Then after returning to basecamp to rest, the first summit attempt will ensue.

We have three everest climbers, and four lhotse climbers. The two groups will follow the same path to camp three, and then the routes diverge before camp four.

Everyone here is doing well and in good spirits. The cooperation and teamwork has continued.

We are all saddened by the tragedy at the Lhotse face 2 days ago. Without knowing the exact details, it is difficult to have any further comment about the actual event.

Our sherpas have been fantastic. Without them, nothing would be possible.
The death of any sherpa on any team is a moment of sadness and loss shared by all climbers on this side of everest.

Best regards to all who read this, we are well and doing fine.

Daniel J. Kim

04/27/07-

Dan reports in live (click here to listen)

4-27 Dan Mazur Everest-Lhotse transcript 9

Hi, this is Dan calling for the SummitClimb Everest-Lhotse Expedition. Today is the 27th of April and the time is about 4:40pm local time. If I sound a bit tired it’s because we’ve just walked down here from Camp 2, we’re down at Base Camp. It was kind of a long day today, and seven of us members are down here together with six Sherpas. We ran into Mark Lusher on his way up to Camp 2. He had spend the night at Camp 1 together with Lakpa Chiri, his personal Sherpa, and they’re on their way up to Camp 2 and were doing very well and excited about spending some time at Camp 2 and acclimatizing.

For ourselves we had started the morning thinking we might walk up to Camp 3 and check out the conditions, but it was really cloudy and snowing lightly and we weren’t able to guess what the weather was going to do and we were a little worried about getting up around Camp 3 and then getting caught in a storm in case the weather deteriorated even further. So, we walked down to Camp 1 and we found out that the Icefall had collapsed below Camp 1 and there was no one passing through the Icefall either coming up or going down because a big section of it had fallen in and it wasn’t passable.

We tried to get an answer from anybody we could about the status of the Icefall and no one seemed able to tell us what we would encounter. At the last minute, at about 11am in Camp 1, we heard a rumor that the Icefall was repaired, the route through the Icefall was repaired by the Icefall Doctors. As we climbed down through the Icefall lo and behold thankfully that proved true and the Icefall Doctors had done an excellent job restoring some of the ladders and changing the routes through some broken ice bridges and seracs that had caved in.

Although as we walked through the repaired section of the route we couldn’t help but think to ourselves that maybe it’s going to need some more work and it didn’t look really super stable and there were still some big ice chunks that looked a little bit precariously balanced. But the ropes were fixed and the ladders were there, so we felt safe and were able to cross and and get everybody back to Base Camp.

...

This is Philip Ling with the latest news from the Summitclimb Everest/Lhotse expedition 2007.

Our combined Everest/Lhotse team is currently back in Basecamp after our latest acclimatisation round up the mountain.

On the 23rd of April we departed basecamp and climbed through the Khumbu Icefall again to Camp 1 at 6000m, where we spent the night. As usual the route was different to our previous foray due to the ice constantly shifting. This keeps things interesting! Mark felt unwell and returned to basecamp along with his personal Sherpa, Lhakpa Chiri.

The following morning we all climbed to Camp 2 at 6400m, where we spent the night. The next morning Dan Mazur, Philip Ling, Bruce Manning and Bill Burke climbed to the Bergshrund at the base of the Lhotse face at around 6700m as an acclimatisation hike in preparation for climbing to Camp 3 at 7350m the following morning. We looked in awe at this sheer wall of blue ice towering 2000 vertical metres above us and the Western Cwm before returning to Camp 2 to sleep.

The next morning the whole team arose early and climbed back up towards the Bergshrund, this time with the intention of climbing the Lhotse Face to Camp
3 at 7350m. As we approached the Bergshrund I learned that there had been an accident involving a Sherpa. Within minutes I was at the scene. It was very evident that the Sherpa had suffered a massive head trauma caused by a falling block of ice or rock from above. Kenton Cool and Sergio Martini were already there and had dragged the body away from the fixed ropes. I helped clean up the bloody mess at the base of the fixed ropes and to cover the body with snow. Out of respect for the dead Sherpa and the wishes of our own team of Sherpas, who like all Sherpa people are very superstitous, we decided not to proceed to Camp 3 that day and returned to Camp 2. The following morning it had started snowing and the winds had increased, so we decided to forgo our acclimatisation hike to Camp 3 and return instead to Basecamp. On the way down we met Mark who had since recovered from his illness and his Sherpa Lhakpa climbing up to Camp 2. They are currently still in Camp 2 acclimatising.

We plan to rest here in basecamp for a few more days before heading up the mountain again. We will climb to Camp 3, spend the night there and the following morning do an acclimatisation hike towards 8000m, then spend another night in Camp 3 before descending back to basecamp. With our acclimatisation program complete, we will rest again before heading up a final time for the summit push. Keep following along!

Philip Ling on behalf of Summitclimb.com

04/26/07-

Dan and Phil report in on the death of a Sherpa from another team

NOTE ALL MEMBERS AND SHERPAS FROM THE SUMMITCLIMB TEAM ARE FINE.

Dan and Phil report in live (Click here to listen)

4-26 Dan Mazur-Philip Ling Everest-Lhotse transcript 8-Sherpa Fatality

Hi, this is Dan calling with a dispatch from the SummitClimb Everest-Lhotse Expedition. Today is April 26 and the time is 11:30am local time. Today our team of seven members and six Sherpas attempted to go up to Camp 3. We turned around at the bergschrund at the base of the Lhotse Face because of an accident, a fatality, with a Sherpa from another group. All members of our team are fine. I’m going to pass the phone to Philip Ling, so he can give a better description of what he saw.

This is Philip Ling from the SummitClimb Everest-Lhotse Expedition. We left Camp 2 at about 7:30am this morning. As we approached the bergschrund where the Lhotse Face meets the Western Col it appeared a Sherpa had an accident. He was climbing the fixed lines and a block of ice apparently fell from the bergschrund and hit him in the head injuring him fatally. As we approached the scene the body was being buried by another team. We helped with the burial and we helped clean up at the base of the ropes. It was quite a nasty mess. Out of respect for the Sherpa who died, and also following the respects of our own Sherpas we decided to turn around, head back to Camp 2 and we’ll think about what happened and make some more decisions tonight and tomorrow. Thank you very much.

04/25/07-

Dan Mazur reports in live (Click here to listen)

4-25 Dan Mazur Everest-Lhotse transcript 7

This is Dan calling for the SummitClimb Everest-Lhotse Expedition. Today is the 25th of April, 7pm, and we’re just finishing our supper and we’re comfortably in our tents up at Camp 2 at 6,400 meters. Today five of our members went up to the base of the Lhotse Face at about 6,750 meters and we just made a walk up there to get acclimatized and check out the route. The route looks pretty good. Two of our members stayed in Camp 2 and rested today to get acclimatized.

Three of our Sherpas went up to Camp 3 at about 7,350 meters and set up one tent and marked off an area with some rope. All of us are going to go up to Camp 3 tomorrow at three in the morning. We’re going to climb up to Camp 3 at about 7,300 meters and just check it out, see how it looks and see how we feel up there in the thin air and then come back down here to Camp 2 and spend the night and then early the next morning go back down to Base Camp for some rest period.

I spoke to Mark and his Sherpa Lakpa Chiri. They’re down in Base Camp and they weren’t able to make Camp 1 today because of poor weather. They’re going to try again at 4:30 in the morning to come up to Camp 1 and then work their way up to Camp 2, so hopefully we’ll be seeing them, too. OK, thank you very much, bye bye.

04/24/07-

Dan Mazur reports in live (Click here to listen)

4-24 Dan Mazur Everest-Lhotse transcript 6

This is Dan Mazur for the SummitClimb Everest-Lhotse Expedition. Today is the 24th of April and it's about 2:00pm local time. I'm calling you from Camp 2 at 6,400 meters. It's a beautiful sunny afternoon. We walked up here from Camp 1,about a 400 meter walk, some clouds were blowing around during our walk but we were able to find the trails. It took us a little while to get up here, it seemed like it was a bit difficult. And we're glad to be in the camp now. There are seven of us foreign climbers along with six Sherpas. I spoke with Mark this morning at 8:00am. We talked on the radio and he's down in Base Camp with his Sherpa Lakpa Chiri. They plan to rest today and then come on up tomorrow. Our plan is to work our way up towards Camp 3, maybe tomorrow or the next day depending on how we're feeling. We saw about 10 Sherpas up there today, fixing ropes and putting in tents, so it looks like Camp 3 is well underway. Ok, we'll update you on our progress tomorrow.

Thank you very much, bye bye.

04/23/07-

Dan Mazur reports in live (Click here to listen)

4-23 Dan Mazur Everest-Lhotse transcript 5

Hi, this is Dan calling from SummitClimb's Everest-Lhotse Expedition. Today is April 23, and it is 5:40pm local time. Seven of us are in Camp 1 with four of our Sherpas. One of our members, Mark, is down in Base Camp. He has a cold. He's gonna rest for a day and try to come up again on Wednesday with his Sherpa, Lakpa Chiri. We just spoke to him on the radio and he's about to have his dinner and he's doing alright. We also have two other Sherpas up in Camp 2 preparing the camp. The 11 of us here in Camp 1 plan to walk to Camp 2 tomorrow and we'll send you another dispatch when we get there. Thank you very much, bye bye.

04/20/07-

This is Philip Ling with the latest news from the Summitclimb Everest / Lhotse expedition 2007.

On the 4th of April 2007 Bruce Manning and Philip Ling, along with Lakpa Kongle Sherpa flew from Kathmandu to Lukla and began our 8 day trek to Everest Base Camp. This is a very pleasant trek, and relatively easy. Along the way we stopped at some amazing villages and met some very friendly locals, not to mention monks, lamas and yaks!

On the 11th of April we arrived at Everest Base Camp at 5350m and met Dan Mazur and the other members of our combined Everest/Lhotse expedition. The following day we all trekked to Pumori ABC at 5800m to spend the night, and to further our acclimatisation without having to enter the treacherous Khumbu Icefall more than necessary. From Pumori ABC we awoke to the most spectacular views of the Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse massif.

On the 14th of April we arose early, had some breakfast and at 5.00am accompanied by our amazing team of extremely strong Sherpas, made our first foray into the Khumbu Icefall. Vast quantities of snow accumulate in the huge horseshoe shaped bowl formed by Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse known as the Western Cwm. This snow compacts under its own sheer weight, and in combination with a continous melting and re-freezing process, eventually turns to ice, which slowly flows down the hill towards the open end of the horseshoe. As the ice falls over the edge of the bowl, it fractures and breaks up into huge pieces, many the sizes of houses! This large collection of randomly shaped blocks of ice is known as the Khumbu Icefall and must be navigated by climbers attempting Everest or Lhotse from the Southern side, and is the original route of Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. Everest Base Camp is situated on the lower part of the Khumbu Icefall/ Glacier.

After about 7 hours of continuous up and around, crossing wobbly ladders strung across bottomless crevasses, passing huge blocks of ice scewed at improbable angles and defying the laws of gravity, and crossing more crevass fields, we finally reached Camp 1 situated at 6000m at the lower end of the Western Cwm. It was a beautiful afternoon, which we spent gazing at the magnificent surroundings. After a nights rest at Camp 1 we continued the climb through the Western Cwm until we reached Camp 2 at 6400m, where we spent a few hours acclimatizing before returning to Camp 1 to sleep another night. The following morning we descended through the icefall back to Everest Base Camp.

We are currently resting here at Everest Base Camp for a few more days, and then we will climb back to Camp 1 and sleep the night, then to Camp 2 and sleep the night, and then climb the Lhotse Face to Camp 3 at 7300m for an acclimatization foray, before either returning to Camp 1 or Camp 2 to sleep or descending all the way back to Base Camp.

All members are doing well, and we will send some more news soon, so stay tuned!

Philip Ling on behalf of Summitclimb.com.

ps. photo caption: in the attached photo, taken in our computer tent, Lhotse member Bruce Manning (left) glowers at the obnoxious cameraman, while Lhotse member Philip Ling (right) busily types this dispatch. In the background, between the two, is a pile of rope destined for our forthcoming ascent of the Lhotse coulouir.

04/19/07-

Hi everyone we are back in basecamp and its 19 april 2007. we are sending you dispatches of our climbs. here is an attached photo of our base camp communications and equipment charging table. we have to thank arnold for setting up the great solar system to run this! thanks for watching our progress!! -dan

04/18/07-

4-18 Dan Mazur Everest-Lhotse transcript 4

This is Dan Mazur from the SummitClimb Everest-Lhotse 2007 Expedition. Today’s date is the 18th of April and the time is 2:40 in the afternoon local time. We’ve all just returned to Base Camp just now. We were gone for several days. We spent two nights in Camp 1 at about 6000 meters and then we walked up to Camp 2 at 6400 meters for a bit of acclimatization and to go look at our chosen camp site at Camp 2.

Everyone is doing really well. Our plans are to take a couple of rest days now down here in Base Camp and our Sherpas plan to get Camp 2 really installed very well. Then we’re going to up to Camp 1 and spend one night and then go up to Camp 2 and spend several nights and hopefully walk up to Camp 3 for further acclimatization. That’s it for now, everyone’s doing great. Thanks for following our progress and take care.

04/17/07-

on 17 april 2007, we climbed up to c2 at 6400 metres, where we all began making camp. there were very few or no tents up there yet, so we believe we are a bit early in the game. the attached photo shows daniel walking back down to camp 1 at the end of the day. the first big group of tents on the left are ours. thanks, dan

04/16/07-

On 16 april, we climbed through the icefall in the morning and arrived in camp 1 at 6000 metres after lunch, to spend the night, before climbing up to camp 2 the following day. the attached photo shows camp 1 with Daniel and Bruce walking around and a nice view of Lhotse behind. Thanks! - Dan

4-16 Dan Mazur Everest-Lhotse transcript 3

Hi this is Dan calling from SummitClimb.com with a dispatch for the Nepal Everest-Lhotse Expedition. Today is the 16th of April and it’s about 5:30 at night local time. All eight of our member and five our our Sherpas are up at Camp 1, we think the altitude here is about 5,950 meters. It was a lot of work getting here today. It took some of us six to nine and a half hours. Everyone seems to be doing ok with no headaches. Our Sherpas have been preparing us a hot dinner and tea and taking good care of us. We’re all in our tents now and it sounds like it’s starting to snow.

Tomorrow the plan is to go up to Camp 2, which we believe is at…(audio drops)……..before heading back to Base Camp on the morning of the 18th of April. Wish us luck and we’ll keep you informed. Thanks a lot for following our expedition. Bye for now.

04/14/07-

We practiced crossing ladders today.

 

 

this is a picture of bill at 5500 metres in the icefall on a ladder.

 

terry crossing the ladder in the icefall with pumori in the background



here is a picture of basecamp from the icefall. this is only a small part of
basecamp. in this photo bruce guesses there are 300 tents.

 

04/13/07-

today we woke up at 5628 metres at Pumori ABC after spending the night there. it was extremely cold and windy. this was our way of acclimatizing to a higher altitude without having to cross any ladders or scary dangerous crevasses. the trail to pumori abc was all scree and sand, so relatively safe. there are 8 of us on the team now:

Everest:

Terry, Bill, Mark

Lhotse:

Phil, Bruce, Daniel, Paul, Dan

thanks for watching our progress and wish us luck.

04/12/07-

today is beautiful and sunny and we are going to sleep in pumori abc at 5650 metres. all 8 of our members are here now and are healthy, the only one missing is florin. we hope he will arrive soon. yesterday a lama walked here from pangboche and gave us a blessing ceremony. it was snowing and very windy during the ceremony, but luckily the sun came out at the end, so it was lucky. we seem to have a very large staff with one sherpa per climber. 3 of our sherpas climbed through the icefall and installed camp 1 today. we seem to be making good progress even though we have had a bit of snow and wind. more later, dan from summitclimb.com

 

 

04/11/07-

 
 
photo attachment: memorial to fallen climers on dughla hill at 4750 metres
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Thats Daniel Kim from the Lhotse team waiting in line behind Mark Luscher from the Everst team.
getting the first blessing is a local sherpa mom with her tiny baby, and that lama geshe sitting down doing the blessing.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Hello there, today we are at Lobuche at 4900 metres. We had a good rest. The weather has blessed us with perfect sunshine every day, so we are very lucky. This afternoon we plan to walk up to gorak shep at 5100 metres and rest for the night. Then, if everyone feels well, we will be heading into basecamp at 5300 metres tomorrow morning. So far, knock on wood, everyone is doing fine.

Talk to you soon , thanks for listening, from Dan and all of us at SummitClimb.com
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
04/10/07-
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Dan reports in from Everest Base Camp
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Transcription:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
This is Dan Mazur calling for the SummitClimb Everest-Lhotse Expedition. Today is the 10th of April and it is 6:30pm Nepal time. We had a really good walk today up to the Advanced Base Camp on Pumori, on trails and through some scree. It was some beautiful weather with sunshine and clouds. We went to 5,600 meters on an acclimatization walk, and now we are back in Base Camp resting. Tomorrow we plan to take a rest day. Our team of Sherpas and climbers did really well today, and everyone seems to be healthy, although a little bit tired after a long day out.

We plan to rest tomorrow and have a prayer ceremony for the Sherpas and then the following day we plan to go back up to Pumori ABC and sleep to acclimatize in a beautiful setting with great views of Everest and there’s some really good trails up there, so we’re really looking forward to that.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
04/08/07-
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Dan Mazur reporting in from Everest Base camp
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Transcription:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
This is Dan calling from SummitClimb, it’s the 8th of April, it’s 3:30pm Nepal time. I’m calling in with a dispatch for the Everest-Lhotse Expedition. We reached Base Camp today at 5,300 meters. With me in Base Camp are Bill, Mark, Paul, Daniel, and also the staff we have here are Kaji, Phuri, Lakpa Garmu, Temba, Jai Bahadur, Tenje, Lhakpa Chiri, and Jangbu.

In Gorak Shep this morning just before setting out for Base Camp I saw Terry with his Sherpa Lakpa Gyalu and I saw Simon there as well from the Ama Dablam Expedition and he had a headache and he was planning to rest a few days in Gorak Shep. I heard that Nancy and Kandu walked down on the 6th from Pheriche and we expect Bruce, Philip and Florin together with Lakpa Kongle up hear very soon. The weather’s been pretty good. It snowed yesterday afternoon. This morning was beautiful and sunny for our walk up to the Everest Base Camp. We’ve got Base Camp well set up, it’s getting cloudy again this afternoon, doesn’t look like it’s going to be a very serious storm or anything. There are a lot of teams here in Base Camp. We heard that the Icefall doctors have finished the route to Camp 1 today. We plan to rest and acclimatize tomorrow and then do some acclimatization hikes around Base Camp before we set off to Camp 1. So we’ll keep you posted. Thank you very much, bye bye.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
04/07/07-
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Dan Mazur reported in all is well as they continue to more toward base camp. Unfortunately due to a big phone line connection to America, Dan's dispatch was too bad to upload. Buy Dan reported all is well as they move up...
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
04/05/07-
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

Bill is sending you these photos today as its his last time sending photos.

 

 

 

 

 

photo caption 1 Phuri Sherpa, Lakpa Chiri Sherpa, Mark Luscher, Tenji

 

Sherpa, Daisy & Bill Burke

 

 

 

photo caption 2 First view of Mt. Everest from Namche Bazaar

 

 

 

 

 

Pangboche April 4, 2007

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Namaste: I suffered my first setback in Namche Bazaar when I came down with altitude sickness on our rest day. The sight of food caused my stomach to do turn flips. Dan Mazur, our trip leader, thinks this might have been caused by the two large pizzas Mark and I ate upon arrival in Namche. The end result is that I couldn’t eat for 1-1/2 days. I wasn’t too concerned because this is a common ailment at high altitude. Other than the stomach problem, I felt great—no headache, shortness of breath or any of the more serious problems caused by altitude. The trek from Namche (11,300 feet) to Pangboche (12,700 feet) was very difficult, with lots of ups and downs. Since I was climbing with no fuel in my tank, the trek was even more difficult for me. By the time I arrived in Pangboche, I felt much better with the additional time for acclimatization. Last night, I ate almost a full dinner. I had the best sleep of the trip, and woke up this morning feeling great. I almost have my full appetite back. As I type this report, I am eating a hot bowl of chicken soup, just like home.

 

 

Today, we attended a Puja, which is a Buddhist Prayer Ceremony, led by a Lama, which is a Buddhist Priest. It was very interesting. He was a kindly, elderly man with a friendly, warm demeanor and an easy laugh.

 

When he asked the age of Mark and me, he laughed because he had to look up an appropriate prayer for person of our age. We each presented him with a scarf (with 500 rupees wrapped inside the scarf). He opened the scarf and let the money fall out. He then blessed the scarf, said a prayer and put the scarf around our neck. I checked this out before the trip with my retired and senior pastor (who is also a beloved friend), and he suggested some ideas that allowed me to honor this tradition, while at the same time respecting and honoring my faith. During the ceremony, I wore a cross that was given to my wife, Sharon, by my granddaughter, Bailey.

 

 

The children in these mountain villages are educated through grade 3, and they are trying to increase this to grade 6. There is a high school in Kunde, which is just above Namche Bazaar. Those children with relatives in Namche, and the means to finance an education, can attend this high school. There is only one hospital, which is in Kunde, which makes it difficult for the people in these villages to receive appropriate health care.

 

Today, we trek to Pheriche, which is an easy climb—only about 1-1/2 hours. In fact, the rest of the trek to Base Camp (5 more days) is a moderate climb.

 


Thanks for your continued prayers and support.

 

 

Bill Burke

 

 

04/04/07-

 

 
today we are in pangboche village. it is extremely beautiful here with stunning views of kwangde, thamserku, kangtega, ama dablam, lhotse, everest, nuptse, and many more.

we had a very involved blessing ceremony with lama geshe the local buddhist priest. he blessed all of our team members, sherpas and even our prayer flags.

This afternoon we are heading to Pheriche. Its a 2 hour walk, which is really nice and relaxing after yesterday's long walk.

I have attached one photo and one in a seperate email.

The attached photo shows tenzing sherpa putting on his boots and kaji tamang calculating our yak loads for the day. thats the nuptse-everest-lhotse massif in the background with a huge an horrible windplume blowing off of the top.

thanks for following our expedition! from dan mazur and all of us at summitclimb.com
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

04/03/07-

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Hello there. Today we are at Namche Bazaar, the capital of the Sherpa World at 3445 metres, 11,300 feet and are having a rest day. Today is another beautiful and sunny day and we awoke in a beautiful campsite at the Danphe Lodge, which sits above town. We hung out around town today, meeting people from the other expeditions, drinking tea and eating pizza. Terry Schuck and his sherpa Lakpa arrived today. Tomorrow we plan to trek up to the 4000 metre, 13,120 foot high village of Pangboche. This afternoon it turned cloudy and I have attached a photo of the view from the Danphe Lodge looking into town and over at the beautiful circa 6000 metre Kwangde Ri lurking in the clouds. Thanks for wishing us luck on our trek to Everest.
 
Yours Sincerely, from Dan Mazur and all of us at SummitClimb.com
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 

 

This is Philip Ling from the Summitclimb Nepal Everest/Lhotse expedition 2007.

 

Welcome to our expedition to Mt. Everest 8848m, of course the world’s highest mountain, and Mt. Lhotse 8516m, the worlds 4th highest mountain. For readers who have family and friends as members on this expedition, we hope you will enjoy following our progress. For those following the expedition just out of interest or for other reasons, we hope you enjoy the dispatches and will consider joining Summitclimb for future expeditions!

Our expedition team is

 

Dan Mazur. USA.

Philip Ling. Australia.

Bruce Manning. England

Florin Grama. Romania

Daniel Kim. USA

Mark Luscher. USA

Bill Burke. USA.

Paul Fitzpatrick. USA.

Terry Schuck. USA

 

Our Sherpa team is

 

Lhakpa Chiri. Personal Sherpa to Mark Luscher

Lhakpa Congle. Climbing Sherpa

Phuri Sherpa. Climbing Sherpa

Tenje Sherpa. Personal Sherpa to Bill Burke

Lhakpa Galu. Personal Sherpa to Terry

Kaji Sherpa. Sirdar

Jai Bar-Dur. Cook

Dawa Jangbu Sherpa. High altitude porter

Lhakpa Tundu Sherpa. Climbing Sherpa and Camp 2 cook.

Temba Sherpa. Kitchen staff

 

 

Dan Mazur, Bill Burke and Mark Luscher flew to Lukla a few days ago and are currently acclimatizing in Namche Bazaar, 3445m, the capital of the Sherpa kingdom. They will trek to Pangboche, 3985m tomorrow. Over the next few days the rest of our expedition team will also fly to Lukla and start the trek to Everest/Lhotse Base Camp at 5400m. Philip Ling on behalf of Summitclimb.com

 


04/02/07-

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
We have arrived at Namche Bazaar, the capital of the Sherpa World at 3445 metres, 11,300 feet. Today was a beautiful and sunny day and we walked here from our last night's camp in the village of Phakding. Yesterday we flew to the Lukla airport after spending a couple of days in Kathmandu and organising things. Its now foggy and almost dark in Namche as we enjoy pizzas and tea at Santosh's Cyber Café. I have attached a photo, are you able to see it? Our team is here including Bill and Mark from the Everest climb, Paul and Daniel from the Lhotse climb, Simon from the Ama Dablam team, and Nancy from the Seattle Times. We have some fantastic Sherpas with us here including Ms. Kandu, Tenzing, Lhakpa Chirri, Lhakpa Gormu, Phuri, Temba, and Kaji. We plan to take a rest day tomorrow. Terry from the Everest team was coughing and had a sore throat and lost his voice in Katmandu so he went to the Ciwec clinic and rested for a day and he just flew to Lukla today with his Sherpa Pasang. Bruce from the Lhotse team is due to arrive in Kathmandu today.

We will keep you posted about how our trek to basecamp is going.

Yours Sincerely from Dan Mazur

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