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Ama Dablam Climb and Trek Expedtion News October


Ama Dablam: news of our expedition
10 October to 10 November, 

Blog post: Please click one of the links below to go directly to that Blog post or just scroll down.

Gyelje Sherpa in the lower part of the grey tower. Checkout camp two on top of the yellow tower in the lower left. photo by Maaike Braat Camp 2.7 on Ama Dablam at 5950 metres / 19,500 feet. Photo by Maaike Braat
 
Gyelje Sherpa in the lower part of the grey tower. Checkout camp two on top of the yellow tower in the lower left. photo by Maaike Braat. Camp 2.7 on Ama Dablam at 5950 metres / 19,500 feet. Photo by Maaike Braat

9 November -

Maaike Braat (The Netherlands) and Gyelje Sherpa summited Ama Dablam on 9 November, 9:45 am. Congratulations! "

In addition to the previous summit we have to add Maaike Braat.

She summited on the 9th November on 11am. She left camp 2.7 early in the morning. Her summit day was clear, but windy and cold. The cold dint hold her off!

Maaike was the last team member that summited and is on her way back to Kathmandu now.

Our staff took down base camp and is also on their way back.

Greetings,

Arnold Coster, expedition leader

Ms. Marigje E. Braat, from the Netherlands, on the summit of Ama Dablam, Novenber 15th, 2012. Photo by Gyelje Sherpa.

Ms. Marigje E. Braat, from the Netherlands, on the summit of Ama Dablam, Novenber 15th. Photo by Gyelje Sherpa.

4 November -

This morning our two Mexican members Hector and Miguel summited at 12 am this morning.

Maaike is resting in Base Camp and is planning an attempt on the 9th.

Today Mike, Jenifer, Arnold and Dimitri arrived back in Kathmandu . They had a smooth walk out and are enjoying the great steaks at the Everest steak house.
 
Greetings, Arnold Coster, expedition leader

Summit of AmaDablam Kunnar Karu, Estonia, Summit 28 October 10:30am. Behind Everest Lhotse. Photo Kunnar Karu  Summit of AmaDablam. Henri Geller, Luxembourg, Summit 28 October 10:30am, Behind Everest, Lhotse. Photo Kunnar Karu

Summit of AmaDablam Kunnar Karu, Estonia, Summit 28 October 10:30am. Behind Everest Lhotse. Photo Kunnar Karu. Summit of AmaDablam. Henri Geller, Luxembourg, Summit 28 October 10:30am, Behind Everest, Lhotse. Photo Kunnar Karu

 Arnold Coster, the Netherlands, Summit 28 October 10:30am. Behind Everest, Lhotse. Photo Kunnar Karu.  Jangbu Sherpa, Nepal, Summit 28 October 10:30am. Behind Everest Lhotse. Photo Kunnar Karu.

Arnold Coster, the Netherlands, Summit 28 October 10:30am. Behind Everest, Lhotse. Photo Kunnar Karu. Jangbu Sherpa, Nepal, Summit 28 October 10:30am. Behind Everest Lhotse. Photo Kunnar Karu.

Kunnar Karu, Jangbu Sherpa, and Arnold Coster at Summit of AmaDablam showing Nepal National Flag. Photo Kunnar Karu.  Kunnar Karu, and Arnold Coster at Summit of AmaDablam showing Nepal National Flag. Photo Kunnar Karu.

Kunnar Karu, Jangbu Sherpa, and Arnold Coster at Summit of AmaDablam showing Nepal National Flag. Photo Kunnar Karu. Kunnar Karu, and Arnold Coster at Summit of AmaDablam showing Nepal National Flag. Photo Kunnar Karu.

Summit of AmaDablam. Henri Geller, Luxembourg, Summit 28 October 10:30am, Kunnar Karu, Estonia, Summit 28 October 10:30am. Photo Kunnar Karu  Kunnar Karu going down from Summit. Photo Henri Geller

Summit of AmaDablam. Henri Geller, Luxembourg, Summit 28 October 10:30am, Kunnar Karu, Estonia, Summit 28 October 10:30am. Photo Kunnar Karu. Kunnar Karu going down from Summit. Photo Henri Geller

31 October -

Yesterday Henri, Kirk and Kunnar left base camp and started their walk back to Lukla and their way back to Kathmandu. They should be in on Lukla on the 1st and fly back to Kathmandu on the 2nd if the weather allows.

Yesterday Mike and Jenifer set off for their summit attempt also, but unfortunately they decided to stop and instead of heading for the summit, just retrieve their gear from camp 1 and camp 2.

Tomorrow Dimitri, Jenifer, Mike and me will start our walk back to Lukla and will be there on the 3rd and fly back to Kathmandu the next day.

We have some new arrivals in Base Camp. Hector and Miguel from Mexico arrived on the 28th and already made a carry to Camp 1. Today they will sleep there and climb higher the next couple of days to finish their acclimatization.

Also Michael and Geoffrey from Australia arrived in Base Camp on the 28th. They will be shearing our base camp, but do their own thing on the mountain. Yesterday they already slept in camp 1 and also stay up to finish their acclimatization.

Maaike from the Netherlands also arrived in Base Camp and is on her way to ABC today together with her Sherpa Gayljin for an acclimatization hike.

So everything is fine here and the weather is still very good.

Here are some facts about the Summits so far.
Henri Geller, Luxembourg, Summit 28 October 10:30am
Kunnar Karu, Estonia, Summit 28 October 10:30am
Arnold Coster, the Netherlands, Summit 28 October 10:30am
Jangbu Sherpa, Nepal, Summit 28 October 10:30am
Dimitri Nichiporav, Russia, Summit 28 October 11:30am
Gayljin Sherpa, Nepal, Summit 28 October 11:30 am

Unfortunately Kirk Reynolds turned around at around 6700m on his summit push together with Palden Sherpa.

Greetings,

Arnold Coster, expedition Leader

Kunnar, Arnold and Jangbu on the Summit of Ama Dablam Miguel Cruz y Celis Ehlinger and Hector Ponce de Leon , both from Mexico, on the summit of Ama Dablam. Photo by Palden Sherpa.
 
Kunnar, Arnold and Jangbu on the Summit of Ama Dablam. Miguel Cruz y Celis Ehlinger and Hector Ponce de Leon , both from Mexico, on the summit of Ama Dablam. Photo by Palden Sherpa.

29 October -

First team summits!

Team reports in live (click here to listen)

Hello SummitClimb News this is Arnold calling from Camp 1 from Ama Dablam at 5700m and I have some good news:
 
Yesterday Henri, Kunnar, Arnold and Janbu Sherpa reached the summit at about 10.30am
 
One hour later Dimitri and Gyalze Sherpa reached the summit at about 11.30 in the morning.
 
We had a beautiful summit where the weather was incredible: no winds, good views and on the way down we had some snow in the afternoon then we reached camp 2 and we spent another night in Camp 2. Everybody was tired by the time we got there as we had been outside for about 18 hours.
 
This morning we descended to Camp 1 and we had a nice breakfast and we’re going to Basecamp now to have a shower and some more good food.
 
Tomorrow I will write a big dispatch from Basecamp so that is all for now bye bye. back to top
 
Herni finish climbing yellow tower. Photo Kunnar Karu  On  mushroom ridge. Photo Kunnar karu.
 
Herni finish climbing yellow tower. Photo Kunnar Karu. On  mushroom ridge. Photo Kunnar karu.
 
Photo of Korean Team reaching the summit. Kangtega Himal in the background. Photo by Maaike Braat Maaike Braat in the grey tower. Please note the climbers in the background. Photo by Peter Worbs
Photo of Korean Team reaching the summit. Kangtega Himal in the background. Photo by Maaike Braat. Maaike Braat in the grey tower. Please note the climbers in the background. Photo by Peter Worbs

28 October -

First team going for the summit!

Team reports in live (click here to listen)

Hello SummitClimb News this is Arnold, the leader of the Ama Dablam expedition calling from Camp 2 at about 5950m.

Today we had a little bit of traffic climbing to camp 2 which made us arrive a little bit later in camp 2 than expected but no problem, everybody made it here in good shape and miraculously all of the traffic dissolved and all of the people turned around and now we can continue to camp 3.

So tomorrow we will be all alone on the summit which is great. We’re here in camp 2 having some food and a little bit of a rest. The plan is to set off at midnight tonight so we will summit early in the morning and we have all day to get down to Camp 1 again.

I’m here with Henri, Dimitri, Kirk, Kunnar and me along with Janbu Sherpa, Palden Sherpa and Gyalze Sherpa so we have a very strong team and I’m sure we’re going to make it.

Right now it’s a little bit cloudy outside, it’s a very good night it’s not too cold and not windy at all so I’m sure when we wake up tonight it’ll be very good weather.

Mike and Jennifer have stayed behind in basecamp as they have decided they need a little bit slower schedule and they need a little bit more rest but that’s no problem. So probably when we go down we’ll meet them in the capable hands with Ang Dorjee Sherpa.

That’s all for now and I hope tomorrow I can tell you all about the summit.

Bye Bye
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Amadablam 

The amazing camp 2 at 6000m - Romain Hoffmann.  Team pushing for the summit at 6600m - Jean-Michel Meunier.

26 October -

Team reports in live (click here to listen)

Hello SummitClimb News, this is Arnold Coster the leader of the Ama Dablam Expedition calling from Camp 1 at 5700 metres. I’m sitting here in our kitchen tent and just finished a delicious meal which our Sherpas made for us. Camp 1 is very comfortable.

We have some good news. Today we set off for our first summit attempt. Going for this summit attempt is Dimitri, Henri, Kirk, Kunnar and me along with Janbu, Palden and Gyalze Sherpa.

The plan is that tonight we’ll sleep in Camp 1. Tomorrow we hope to reach Camp 2 at 5950m and rest there all day because we will be there early in the morning and in the middle of the night we’ll set off for our summit push. Tthe plan is to summit on the 28th if everything goes well.

Then we have a second summit party with Mike and Jennifer and Ang Dorjee Sherpa. They just need a bit more time to rest which is no problem because we still have a lot of time on our expedition. We hope to see them the next day and they’re hopefully going to summit one day behind us.

I’ll keep you updated; tomorrow we’re going for camp two. That’s all for now bye bye.
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24 October -

team climbs the yellow tower at 5900m, the crux of the climb, amadablam Approaching yellow tower snow ridge below. Photo Kunnar Karu

Team climbs the yellow tower at 5900m, the crux of the climb. Approaching yellow tower snow ridge below. Photo Kunnar Karu.

On the way to camp 2 Kunnar Karu. Photo Kunnar Karu On the way to camp 2. Photo Henri Geller

On the way to camp 2 Kunnar Karu. Photo Kunnar Karu. On the way to camp 2. Photo Henri Geller.

Henri Geller showing his Ice axe in camp 2. Photo Kunnar Karu Interesting climbing between camp 1 and camp 2. Photo Kunnar Karu

Henri Geller showing his Ice axe in camp 2. Photo Kunnar Karu. Interesting climbing between camp 1 and camp 2. Photo Kunnar Karu

After a long day of climbing most us the team returned back in Base Camp today. The night before we all slept in Camp 1 at 5700m and the next morning we set off to explore and make a carry to camp 2.

The route to camp 2 is very interesting. It's all rock climbing on very good quality rock. The route traverses along ledges to avoid most of the difficulties, but just before camp 2 there is a big structure called the yellow tower. This tower can't be avoided and is the crux of the whole climb.

If you would have to free climb this pitch it would be quite a challenge, but with the use of fixed ropes it is a lot easier. Specially if you carry a pack. The whole team was able to climb this section without big problems.

Now are back in base. Our acclimatization is finished. We will rest and recover here and try to choose the right day for our summit push.

High Altitude Greetings,

Arnold Coster, Expedition leader
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Player flag above camp 1. Photo Kunnar Karu. Start of fix line after camp 1. Ang Dorjee Sherpa helping member. Photo Kunnar Karu

Player flag above camp 1. Photo Kunnar Karu. Start of fix line after camp 1. Ang Dorjee Sherpa helping member. Photo Kunnar Karu

Camp 1 at 5700m. Photo Arnold coster, AmaDablam Camp 1, Henri Geller waving. Photo Kunnar Karu.
 
Camp 1 at 5700m. Photo Arnold coster. Camp 1, Henri Geller waving. Photo Kunnar Karu.

21  October –

Hello! This is Jennifer Bohn giving a shout out from basecamp, Ama Dablam. Our expedition is going very well. Weather is very good & our leader, Arnold is fantastic! His laugh alone is enough to inspire you up the mountain.  Today is a rest day in BC.  Tomorrow we hike up to Camp 1 again. We are on schedule if not a little bit ahead.  Sending love to everyone at home!  Peace out or Nameste as they say. back to top

Amadablam Amadablam, puja ceromony 
Member getting blessed by the lama during our puja (Grace McDonald). Our puja, Tenji holding a cup of Rakshi (Liam Suckling).
 
Team in abc 5300m after acclimasation hike, ama in background, amadablam
 
Team in abc 5300m after acclimasation hike, ama in background

18  October –

We did our acclimatization hike to advanced Base Camp today at 5300m. The whole team is strong and make it in good time up there. The weather is nice, but a bit cold and windy. Today also our staff pitched our tents and kitchen in ABC.

Tomorrow we will have our Base Camp Puja and after lunch we will head back up and spend our first night on the mountain. We will try to reach Camp 1 and then come back down for a rest in Base Camp again.

Looking forward to get more close to the route,

Greetings,

Arnold Coster, Expedition leader
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Kunnar Karu relaxing and having sun bath in the base camp. Photo Kunnar Karu Kirk Alfred Reynolds relaxing and having sun bath in the base camp. Photo Kunnar Karu

Kunnar Karu relaxing and having sun bath in the base camp. Photo Kunnar Karu. Kirk Alfred Reynolds relaxing and having sun bath in the base camp. Photo Kunnar Karu

17 October –

Today we had a day of training in Base Camp. In the morning we went over the usage off the Gamov bag, this is a portable compression chamber we can use to treat altitude sickness. It very easy to use and an important part of our safety equipment.

After lunch we had some rope practice on one off the rock above base camp. We just reviewed some ascending and rappelling techniques to make sure we are all on the same pass.

Tomorrow we will do our acclimatization hike to Advanced Base Camp and return back to Base Camp again. Followed by our Base Camp puja the next day.

So all is well,

Greetings, Arnold Coster Expedition Leader.
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Our Comfortable Base Camp at 4650M, Amadablam The group having a break during the rope practice
Our Comfortable Base Camp at 4650M. The group having a break during the rope practice. Photo Arnold Coster

16 October -

This morning we had our expedition blessed by Lama Geshi in Pangboche.

Traditionally all expedition who pass Pangboche visit this Lama, a Buddhist high priest. He reads a special prayer for our expedition to explain the mountain god of Ama Dablam that we will do no harm.

Our equipment and personal luggage left early this morning on Yaks to Base Camp, so when we arrived in the camp it was already set up.

Our cook Dorje cooked us a delicious fresh meal and our first dinner in our new home.

Tomorrow we will do some rope practice in Base camp, just to review our skills and a little bit of exercise to improve our acclimatization.

The team is strong and everybody is doing well.

Greetings,

Arnold Coster, expedition leader  back to top

Amadablam Rope Practice above BC

Amazing photo of Ama Dablam taken outside of Namche (Liam Suckling). Rope Practice above BC.  Photo Arnold Coster. back to top
 
 Yak, Amadablam Ama Dablam, Amadablam at night
 
  Big yak on the way to Ama Dablam - Romain Hoffmann. Basecamp at night time  - Grace McDonald
 

15 October -

The 12th we left Kathmandu, it was a long wait due to weather on the airport before we finally took off and flew to Lukla.

There was a small gap in the clouds and Lukla airport opened briefly in the afternoon, just enough time to get us there and start our expedition.

The same day we still managed to walk to Phakding and spend our first night in the mountains.

The next morning we woke up early for our hike to Namche Bazar. It’s a beautifull walk true the pine forest alongside the Duth Koshi river.

Just before Namche the trail goes up a long hill before we reach namche.

Namche is the Sherpa capital in Nepal, it’s a nice place to hang out and has many shops, restaurants, bakeries etc

Today we walked to the Everest view point and had our first view on Everest and Ama Dablam.

Tomorrow the Ama Dablam and Island peak groups will go separate ways. Both expeditions will dispatch separate about their trip.

This is it for now,

Greetings,

Arnold coster, expedition leader Ama Dablam back to top

 Namche bazaar

Team having lunch on the way to Namche. Namche Bazaar, the sherpa capital (Violetta Pontinen).
Team Roster:

  • Arnold C. (Leader), Netherland
  • James M. D., USA
  • Ms. Jennifer L. B., USA
  • Avraham Z., Israel
  • Dmitri  N., Russia
  • Kunnar K., Estonia
  • Richard T. M., UK
  • Thomas P., Germany
  • Kirk A. R., USA
  • Henri G., Luxembourg
  • Miguel C.y C., Mexico
  • Hector G., Mexico
  • Geoffrey G., Australia
  • Michael J., Australia
  • Ms. Marigje E. B., Netherland
Staff:

  • Gyalze Sherpa – Climbing Sherpa
  • Palden Sherpa – Climbing Sherpa
  • Jangbu Sherpa – Climbing Sherpa
  • Ang Dorjee Sherpa – Climbing Sherpa
  • Thile Sherpa – BaseCamp Manager
  • Nima Dorjee Lama - Cook back to top
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