Mustagata Expedition – China

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Mustagata Expedition – China

  • Dates; 23 July to 13 August 2020 or 10 June to 1 July 2021 or 8 July to 29 July 2021 or 22 July to 12 August 2021. 22 days in China
  • Full Service Cost: $7,250 £5,550 €6400. Basic Climb Cost: $2,670, £2,150, €2,350. (Price fixed in $USD. £GBP and €EUR price for convenience only, converted February 25, 2020)

Join the team

More Information

  • Selected by National Geographic is “Best Adventure Destination”
  • Climb, ski, snowboard, snowshoe, and snow-raquette to the summit and down.
  • Add on a 'Pre-Climb Tour' of ancient Kashgar and the famous Shipton Arch

Recent News: Please Click here to view news of our expedition. We only have a few places left in the team for next season. Please conact us now to book: info@summitclimb.com

Mustagata Expedition – China

At 7,546 meters (24,757 feet),Mustagata is perhaps the easiest 7,500 meter peak in the world. It is located in the Chinese Pamirs near K2, and is an easy peak for confident skiers, snowboarders, or snowshoers/racquetters to enjoy. Mustagata is one of the safest 7,5000 meter peak. Because it can be quickly accessed by road, it is one of the quickest/easiest climbs to this elevation; just 22 days.

 

Mustagata - China Expedition Cost

Our full-service expedition includes:

  • British, American, or European leader/coordinator
  • Expert Sherpa from Nepal
  • Transportation and equipment carriage from Kashgar to base camp and back
  • Three meals each day
  • Permit fees and liaison officers
  • Group emergency equipment and satellite phone
  • Private tents in basecamp (no sharing
  • Full base camp with dinning tent, showers, bathroom, and solar charger
  • Double occupancy tents above base camp
  • Two meals in Kashgar
  • Airport/Train station Transfer

What is not included?

  • Personal climbing equipment, clothing, and snack food
  • Mountain climbing rescue and travel insurance
  • Transport to and fromKashgar from your home country
  • Hotel and meals in Kashgar
  • Chinese Visa
  • Gratuities for staff

Our basic climb includes:

  • British, American, or European leader/coordinator
  • Permit fees and liaison officers
  • Emergency equipment and supplies
  • Access to team fixed ropes and camps (sites, not tents)
  • Transport for member and their equipment from Kashgar to Mustagata base camp and back.Maximum 70lbs (32 kilograms) of equipment per person. Additional baggage can be transported at a reasonable cost.
  • Other necessary services and supplies may be purchased at minimal expense.
Mustagata - China Expedition Itinerary

1) Arrive in Kashgar. Check equipment and group briefing.
2) Departure from Kashgar to Subashi
3) Walk to base camp, 4,500 meters (14,764 feet).
4) Rest day in base camp.
5) Climb to Camp 1, 5,300 meters (17,388 feet). Sleep at base camp.
6) Climb to Camp 1. Spend the night at camp 1.
7) Climb to Camp 2, 6,100 meters (20,013 feet).Sleep in base camp.
8) Rest day in base camp.
9) Climb to camp 1. Spend the night in camp 1.
10) Climb to camp 2. Spend the night there.
11) Climb to camp 3, 6,800 meters (22,310 feet). Sleep in base camp.
12) Rest day in base camp.
13) Climb to camp 1. Spend the night there.
14) Climb to Camp 2.Spend the night there.
15) Summit attempt or move to Camp 3. Spend the night there.
16) Summit attempt, 7,546 meters (24,751 feet).
17) Summit / contingency day.
18) Summit / contingency day.
19) Summit / contingency day.
20) Descent to base camp.
21) Drive to Kashgar - Farewell party in Kashgar
22) Flight home* We ascend directly to 4,500 meter high basecamp. We offer two acclimatization programs: 1) If you arrive 2 days early, you can stay in yurts near Idara for trekking 2) If you arrive 4 days early in Bishkek, we plan two days around the beautiful historic site of Tash Rabat. Both are located at 3,000 meters

  1. Idara (2 days extra) – Transport to Idara and 2 nights in Yurt, full board - US$ 460 per person.
  2. Kirgisa (6 days extra) –Starts 4 days earlier and ends 2 days later. Includes transport from Bishkek to Kashgar, 4 nights bed and breakfast at Bishkek and 2 night in Tash Rabat with full board - US$ 850 per person.
Mustagata - China Expedition Leadership and Staff
Leadership: Dan Mazur is a relaxed, friendly, well organized, and highly skilled professional with over 20 years of experience leading people to the summits of Everest, K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Manaslu, and Shishapangma.

Sherpas: We employ some of Nepal, Tibet, and the Karakorum’s best local mountaineers and Sherpas to assist team members in realizing their summit goals. Our friendly and loyal high altitude climbing staff has supported teams to the summits of more than ten of the highest peaks in the Himalaya.
Mustagata - China Expedition Personal and Team Equipment

Climbing:

  • Climbing harness
  • 5 meters (16 ft.) of 6mm accessory cord
  • Figure 8 abseil/belay device (tube style devices, i.e. ATC will not work on fixed lines)
  • Full size ascender (i.e. PetzlAscention)
  • 2 locking carabiners, 1 large and 1 small
  • 4 non-locking carabiners
  • Ice axe with leash
  • Steel crampons with anti-balling plates
  • Trekking poles
  • Abseiling/Rappelling Gloves

Upper Body:

  • 2 cotton t-shirts
  • 2 synthetic t-shirts
  • 2 long sleeve synthetic shirts
  • Light-weight soft shell jacket
  • Medium weight insulatingjacket (fleece, down, or synthetic)
  • Hard shell jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable (Gore-Tex or similar)
  • Heavy down coat
     
    • For 6,000m peaks a very warm down coat with hood or an 8,000m coat with hood
    • For 7,000m peaks an 8,000m coat with hood
    • For 8,000m peaks an 8,000m down coat with hood or an 8,000m suit can be used instead

Hands:

  • Lightweight poly-liner gloves
  • Mid-weight soft shell gloves – water/wind resistant
  • Heavy- weight waterproof gloves – Gore-tex shell with removable liner
  • Expedition weight mittens -Gore-tex over mitt matched polar fleece mitt liner

Head:

  • Helmet
  • Warm hat that covers your ears
  • Balaclava
  • Face mask
  • Baseball hat or brimmed sun hat
  • Glacier sunglasses with side shields
  • Ski goggles with light and dark lenses
  • Headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs
  • Buff/neck gaiter
  • Bandana or head scarf (optional)

Lower Body:

  • Synthetic underwear
  • Hiking shorts
  • Hiking pants
  • 2 pair lightweight thermal bottoms
  • Medium or expedition weight thermal bottoms
  • Polar fleece or soft shell pants
  • Waterproof/breathable pants with full side zips (Gore-Tex or similar)
  • Heavy insulating pants
     
    • For 6,000m peaks: Down or synthetic pants will full zips
    • For 7,000m peaks: 8,000m down pants
    • For 8,000m peaks: 8,000m down pants or a 8,000m suit can be used instead

Feet:

  • Boots
     
    • For 6,000m peaks: Plastic or composite double boots (Koflach, La SportivaSpantik, etc) Modern waterproof, single boots designed for 4-5,000m peaks may be suitable if they can be worn with 2 pairs of socks and vapor barrier lines and/or they are equipped with overboots
    • For 7,000m: Plastic or composite double boots (Koflach, La SportivaSpantik, etc)
    • For 8,000m peaks: 8,000m boots - One-Sport Millet Everest boots or equivalent
       
  • Sturdy leather walking boots
  • Trainers, running shoes and/or sandals
  • Down booties (optional)
  • 3 pair med-heavy poly or wool socks
  • 2 pair poly or wool liner socks (optional)
  • Vapor barrier liner socks (optional)
  • 2 pair lightweight trekking socks
  • Cotton socks for in town

Sleeping:

  • Down sleeping bag
     
    • For 6,000m peaks: -18C or 0F
    • For 7,000m peaks:-23C or -10F (If you sleep cold consider -29C or -20F)
    • For 8,000m peaks: -29C or -20F (If you sleep cold consider -40C or -40F)
       
  • An additional down sleeping bag for basecamp for the following climbs: Everest, Lhotse, AmaDablam, Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I and II, Spantik, K2/Broad Peak Everest training climb. For Mastagata a second sleeping bag is optional, but highly recommended.
     
    • Down base camp sleeping bag should be rated to -10C or 15F (If you sleep cold consider -18C or 0F)
       
  • 2 closed cell foam kari-mats (sleeping pads) for use in basecamp and high altitude (these can be purchased inexpensively in Kathmandu)
  • High quality inflatable sleeping pad designed for cold weather (Thermarest)
  • Patch kit for inflatable pad

Rucksack and Travel Bags:

  • Medium rucksack/backpack (50-70 litres / 3000-4500 cubic inches, can be used as carry-on bag)
  • Waterproof rucksack cover (optional)
  • 2 large (120+ L / 7500+ cubic inch) duffle kit bags for clothing and equipment
  • Small luggage locks for duffel kit bags

Personal Hygiene:

  • Female or male hygiene supplies
  • 2 tubes lip sun cream
  • Large tube skin sun cream (min factor 30)
  • Anti-mosquito cream
  • Toothpaste/brush
  • Hand sanitizer gel (small-medium bottle)
  • Bar of soap small towel
  • Hand wipes

Medical:

  • Small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, first-aid tape, plasters (band-aids), personal medications, etc.
  • Blister repair kit
  • 10 anti-diarrhea pills
  • 20 anti-headache pills
  • 10 cough and/or cold medicine
  • Anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox, Acetylzolamide (optional)
  • 10 Stomach antibiotics: Ciprofloxacin, etc.
  • 5 Azithomycine tables
  • Steri pen or bottle of water purification tablets
  • Cough sweets/lozenges (Halls/Stepils)
  • Earplugs
  • Extra prescription glasses/contact lenses and supplies

Personal Food:

  • Snack food/daily energy food
     
    • Everest training Nepal/Tibet, AmaDablam, Baruntse: 2-4kg (4.5-9lbs)
    • Spantik, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Mustagata, Manasu: 2-5kg (4.5-11lbs)
    • Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I/II, K2/Everest training, Everest, Lhotse: 3-6kg (6.5-13lbs)
       
  • Dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for summit attempt
     
    • Everest training Nepal/Tibet, AmaDablam: 2 meals
    • Spantik, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Mustagata, Manasu, Baruntse: 3 meals
    • Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I/II, K2/Everest training, Everest, Lhotse: 5 meals
Practical:
 
  • Small roll of repair tape
  • Sewing repair kit
  • Cigarette lighter
  • Small box matches
  • Compass or GPS
  • Battery powered alarm clock/watch
  • Camera with extra cards and extra batteries
  • Nylon stuff sacks for food and gear storage
  • 2 water bottles (1 litre) wide-mouth Nalgene
  • Pee bottle (1litre or larger)
  • Plastic cup and spoon
  • Small folding knife
  • Binoculars (optional)
  • 4 large, waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks
  • Passport, 2 extra passport photos, flight ticket, flight itinerary
  • Separate photocopies of passport and relevant visa pages, proof of insurance
  • Dollars, pounds, or euros cash
  • Bank/ATM/Cash and credit cards
  • Bathing suit/swim suit (you never know)
  • Paperback books, playing cards, ipod/mp3 player, musical instruments, extra batteries, etc.
  • Travel clothes for basecamp and in town
  • Umbrella (optional)
  • Small solar panels for personal electronics (optional)

Group Equipment:

We provide group gear, equipment, and supplies including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection, tents; stoves, fuel, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. A personal tent will be provided for each member at base camp. On the upper mountain, team members will share tents. In base camp, a shower, toilet, solar charger, and a dining tent will be provided.

Mustagata - China Expedition Experience and Training
Team members are expected to be able to care for themselves in a winter-camping environment. Although Mustagata is considered to be an easy and low angle mountain, there are hazards present, and members must have knowledge of roped glacier travel. It is also required that all members will have an awareness of altitude sickness, frostbite, and the recognition of their symptoms, prevention, and treatment.

To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active winter climber in good health. Prior to joining our group, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in extremes of altitude, and also for exotic locales.
Mustagata - China Photo Galley
  • Skiing above C2

    Skiing above C2

  • Climbing Mustagata

    Climbing Mustagata

  • Descending from C3

    Descending from C3

  • Camp

    Camp

  • Climbing

    Climbing

  • Summit

    Summit

  • Camel

    Camel

  • Mustagata

    Mustagata

  • Camp 2

    Camp 2

  • Camp 2

    Camp 2

  • Above Base Camp

    Above Base Camp

  • Between camp 2 and 3

    Between camp 2 and 3

  • Camp 2

    Camp 2

  • Ski

    Ski

  • Summit

    Summit

  • Summit

    Summit

  • Above Basecamp

    Above Basecamp

  • Snowshoeing

    Snowshoeing

  • Camp 3

    Camp 3

  • Camp 2

    Camp 2

  • Team

    Team

  • Camels

    Camels

  • Above C1

    Above C1

  • Below C2

    Below C2

  • Below High Camp

    Below High Camp

Mustagata - China Application Forms

Please fill out an application and return it to us with your refundable ten-percent deposit to hold your place on the team.

In addition to your application, we will need the following at least two months before the trip begins:  

  • Completed Payment
  • Oxygen order (if any)
  • Sherpa order (if any)
  • Trip Registration form
  • 1 Passport sized photo
  • A scan of your passport identification pages
  • Complete flight itinerary
  • Proof of travel, accident, and repatriation insurance. We strongly recommend Global Rescue, with at least $50,000 worth of helicopter rescue insurance.
  • Trip cancellation/interruption insurance is recommended

Please contact us with any questions you may have.

Here is what summiter Urs from Switzerland had to say: "Overall it was a great experience. Technically it was very easy. For competent off-piste mountain skiiers and snowboarders, I would recommend skis or split board over raquettes/snow shoes, as the way down is very breathtaking.

The challenge of Mustagata is certainly the altitude, rather than the technicality of the terrain. It's more challenging than easy two day or week-long climbs like Island Peak or Kilimanjaro."

Here is what summiter Gary from New Mexico says: "Mustagata is an excellent exposure to very high altitude without requiring excessive commitment or extensive technical climbing skills. It makes for a great test before trying something higher. It's also a chance to see really interesting people and cultures that you wouldn't experience on a Himalayan climb in the "typical" areas of Nepal or Tibet. Finally, it's a chance for some great snowshoeing/raquetting, snowboarding and skiing in an amazing location.

The Tibetan sherpas were really great. I've climbed before with Nepalese sherpas, and these Tibetan guys were certainly their equal when it came to their strength, work ethic, and all around helpfulness. They genuinely seemed to have a good time, with infectious smiles. I'd climb again with them any time."

Here is what Arun from California says: "The Summitclimb leadership was excellent on the trip, with the leader acting as a mentor to many of the team members. They worked tirelessly to make this trip as perfect as possible for all of us. The Chinese staff were kind and caring, taking good care of us at BC and on the mountain. The organizers in Kashgar were outstanding and extremely efficient. I hope to join SummitClimb on future adventures."
Here is what Kristine from Pennsylvania says: "Mustagata was a blast. The expedition leader was great, as he knows the language and the culture well.  I loved that we took a different route than the other trips."
"The leader's personality, experience and competence were a key component to the success of this expedition. The logistics and service were good, with a pleasant staff always ready to help and do their best to make our trip run smoothly. We enjoyed the group of international members that came on the expedition and everybody was very respectful with a good sense of humour. SummitClimb provided fast and effective responses by email before the trip, helping us to be well prepared and reassured."