Everest is perhaps the most coveted mountain in the world. The south (Nepalese) side is the route first climbed by Tenzing and Hillary in 1953, and the dates we have chosen feature the best weather of the year. Our proposed schedule allows for two potential summit attempts.
This expedition to Everest maximizes many years of accumulated wisdom of the high Himalaya, a strong record of reaching Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, and many other 8,000 metre summits, along with an intimate knowledge of the Nepalese officials who regulate the permit system. We must also give credit to the highly experienced and hard-working climbing sherpas, cooking and office staff.
The proposed itinerary allows enough time for proper acclimatization, rest days, and several returns to base camp, where the kitchen and base camp staff can look after all of your needs, and quell your appetite. The weather at this time of year is normally quite good and stable. However, we all know the global weather is changing, and in case of storms, you will note the proposed itinerary includes extra days as well. In previous expeditions, half of those who reached the summit needed every single "extra" day.
At low elevation, the temperatures can vary from 27°c to -7°c ( 80°f to 20°f). At higher elevations, the temperature can vary from 16°c to -23°c (60°f to -10°f). The wind is the most chilling factor, and can be quite variable, with everything from a flat calm, to hurricane force on the summit. There may be deep snow, heavy rains, mosquitoes in wet areas, blowing dust, burning heat, bright sunshine.
The trip begins in the ancient and colorful city of Kathmandu, and the staff will personally meet your flight at Tribhuvan airport. You stay in a comfortable, simple, clean hotel, and sample some of the tasty Nepalese, Tibetan and Western-Style cuisine, at minimal expense. During our free day in Kathmandu, we shall finalize arrangements, and take some time out for trinket hunting, with planned visits to explore the 17th century splendors of the Monkey Temple, the Durbar Square and old Kings Palace, as well as the ancient city of Patan. back to top
Early the following morning we fly to Lukla at 2,850 metres/9,400 feet., where we meet our yak drivers, and porters. If there is time, we will trek to Monjo (2,650 metres/8,700 feet), and spend the night. For our full-service members, the cost of this expedition includes one of the most beautiful treks in the world. For more information and photos, please visit our Everest trek section of the site: Everest Trek.
Trekking in the Khumbu valley. Yaks carry our gear (Bob Rowe). Crossing a bridge under rhododendron forests. (DL Mazur) Our team in basecamp (DL Mazur).
We will continue our trek up to Namche Bazaar (3,450 metres/11,300 feet), the capital of the Sherpa Kingdom. Here we rest for a day to acclimate, then proceed up to Deboche (3,750 metres/12,300 feet) for a night, then to Lobuche (4,950 metres/16,200 feet), where we have another acclimatization day. Finally, we make the last trek to basecamp at 5,300 metres/17,400 feet.
After resting, organizing, and training in basecamp for a day, we will begin our climb. We start with a day hike through the awe inspiring Khumbu Icefall, followed by a trip to the plateau of the Western Cwm, for our first glimpse of Camp 1, at 5,800 metres/19,000 feet. We return to basecamp for a tasty dinner, prepared by our skilled cooks. back to top
Anatoly Bukreev and Vladimir Balyberdin at basecamp. (DL Mazur). On the South Col of Everest (Gennady Kopieka)
Climbing at 8,400 metres/27,600 feet above the Kangshung Face (DL Mazur).
Through the following weeks, we will climb up and down the mountain, exploring the route, establishing camps, and carefully and safely building our acclimatization level.
From camp 1 at 6,000 metres/19,700 feet, the route traverses the flattish bottom of the Western Cwm, to 6,200 metres/20,300 feet where camp 2 is located.
Camp 3 is on the head wall of the Lhotse face at about 7,200 metres/23,600 feet. To reach camp 3, we must negotiate the Lhotse Face. The Lhotse face is a steep, shiny icy wall. The face itself is not extremely technical, but is arduous considering the altitude increase. It gets less difficult as acclimation continues through the weeks going up and down between camps. back to top
Diane in the icefall (Dan Mazur). Tent lashed to its platform in camp 3 at 7,200 metres/23,600 feet (Dan Mazur)Climber in the Lhotse Face (Scott Darsney). Chris Shaw on the face at 8,100 metres/26,600 feet, during an early summit attempt (Dan Mazur)
The South Col, camp 4, is the highest camp and at 8,000 metres/26,200 feet, it is a windy and cold place. We take our time, climbing up and down to acclimate, which gives us the best chance to ascend in safety and maximize our opportunity to reach the summit during the "weather windows" which generally open in May. There are typically snow on the ledges to walk down on, interspersed with rock, along with some fixed rope. There’s a little short slope on reliable snow which leads to the top of the Geneva Spur. The route turns hard to the left onto the snowfield that leads to the top of the Yellow Bands.
The route to the summit winds through snow ice and rock fields, at a 10 to 50 degree angle. These slopes are not considered technical, but there is exposed rock here in the spring, and lines are often fixed. Fixed rope is often placed on the small vertical pitch of the 12 metre/40 foot, high Hillary step, and the summit lies directly above. The summit sits at the top of the world.
The view from the summit, looking west to Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Pumori, and many others (DL Mazur) .
We are very excited to be offering a traverse of Everest. There are two ways to do it, from Nepal to Tibet, and from Tibet to Nepal. We are able to offer both options as we have expeditions from both sides. If you are interested in doing this, please contact us as soon as possible.
From the summit, you will cross over and ascend the other side of Mt. Everest where camps will already be established from our Tibet expedition.
Descending the fixed lines below the summit on the Tibet side (Ryan Waters).
After packing up all of your equipment, supplies, and rubbish, you will make the return trek to Lukla. The following morning, you are up early, and fly back to Kathmandu, where you can enjoy a hot shower and a grand Nepalese western-style feast. In Kathmandu, you can have a day to relax, celebrate, tour the valley, write postcards, and do a bit more shopping, before heading home. We hope you had a safe, enjoyable, and successful adventure. Thanks for joining in! back to top
Thank You for joining our Everest Nepal Expedition.