Please click one of the links below to view that section of our introductory information or just scroll down (photo right by Tunc Findik: Baruntse seen from basecamp at sundown).

• Programme description:
• Introduction
• Leader and staff
• National park
• Trek to basecamp
• Rest days
• Mera Peak
  
• Basecamp
• High camps
• Summit
• Who is this trip for?

Baruntse Programme Description:

• Introduction: At 7129 metres/23,390 feet, Baruntse (sometimes called Barun Tse or Barunche) lies in the heart of the Himalayan Giants of Nepal and has a higher rate of success reaching the summit than comparable peaks of this height. Our expedition offers an opportunity to climb this 'classic' easier 7000 metre/23,000 foot peak, located in a more remote area of the Khumbu region in Nepal in a relatively short amount of time. The summit affords some of the best views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu that can be seen anywhere in the  Himalaya.
• We teach you everything you need to know about climbing during the trip, during our 'warm-up' climb of easy trekking peak 'Mera Peak', 6,500 metre/21,000 foot high peak. Climb two fun mountains for one low price in a short amount of time.
• Baruntse could qualify you for Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Everest Tibet or Everest Nepal.
• Our proposed schedule allows for a careful and safe ascent, as well as multiple full descents to basecamp (photo right by Tunc Findik: Ascending the summit ridge of Baruntse).
• The style of climbing is cautious and well-timed, with excellent leadership, organization, Sherpa climbers, `walkie-talkie` radios, satellite telephones, cooks and waiters, tasty food, the best equipment, a full kitchen in basecamp, two camps on the mountain, 1000s of metres of fixed line, hundreds of rock, ice and snow anchors, top-quality high altitude tents and high altitude stoves, expedition mix gas, and full safety equipment: medical oxygen, gamow bag, and extensive medical kit.
• Our expedition features one of the most beautiful treks in the world included in the cost.
• This expedition maximizes experience gained over countless Himalayan expeditions with a strong record of reaching the top of our world`s highest peaks. In addition to more than 25 Himalayan expeditions we have an intimate knowledge of the Nepalese officials who regulate the permit system, liaison officers, sherpas, cooks, yak drivers, and hoteliers/restaurateurs. back to top

• Leader and staff: In Kathmandu, during the trek, in basecamp and on the climb, our experienced staff is with you all of the way. Our helpful climbing sherpas are some of the best. They are real high-altitude star-performers and very friendly. Our western leader is a highly experienced, friendly, and well-organized professional with multiple ascents of Everest, Cho Oyu and Ama Dablam. Skillful basecamp cooks prepare delicious, fresh, tasty food and hot drinks at least 3 times a day (photo right by Tunk Findik: The famous Dawa Sherpa, who completed a Tibet Everest basecamp to Nepal Everest basecamp climb and traverse in 20 hours in 2006 on the summit of Baruntse).
• On trek: Our western leader, together with friendly and helpful sherpas, cooks and local people leading yak caravans carry all of your personal equipment, group equipment, and set up camp each day, prepare and serve delicious meals, so you can relax and enjoy the trek. You do not need to carry a heavy rucksack during the trek.
• Our comfortable basecamp: Our cooks and waiters will serve you delicious meals in our dining tents.
• On the mountain: Our western leader and group sherpas will fix the route and set up high camps, as well as carry group equipment, such as tents, stoves, etc. If you wish to help out, we welcome you to do so, otherwise just relax and focus on getting well acclimated and achieving your goals. You do not need to carry a heavy rucksack during the climb.
• Sherpas: We have many group sherpas to help the team. For an additional expense, we can also provide personal sherpas and climbing-guides to individual members who wish to have their own private sherpa. We now encourage members who wish to have a lighter rucksack to hire a 1/4 of a sherpa to help with high altitude equipment transport, carrying your extra weight both up and down the mountain. back to top

• Everest National Park: The park covers an area of 1148 square kilometres in the Khumbu region of Nepal. This includes Baruntse, Mt. Everest and several other well known peaks such as Lhotse, Pumori, Island Peak, and Ama Dablam. The surrounding area is a `world biosphere reserve`. Since 1976 the park has served to safeguard unique cultural, physical and scientific values through sound conservation principles. Vegetation in the park varies from oak, pine and hemlock forests at lower altitudes to fir, juniper, birch and rhododendron woods at mid-elevations. Scrub and alpine plant communities with bare rock and glacier are found above the tree line. 22 species of rhododendron bloom during the spring (April and May) and much of the flora is colourful throughout the year. Wild animals most likely to be seen in the park are Himalayan tahr, goral, serow, musk deer, and well over 100 different bird species (photo right by http://www.americazoo.com/goto/index/mammals/420.htm: The Himalayan Tahr can grow to a metre high and weigh upwards of 100 kg).

• Trek to basecamp: This is one of the most beautiful treks in the world with ancient snow-free paths winding past green terraced villages, rushing streams crossed on swinging bridges and each night a comfortable `teahouse` or a good tent pitched in a quiet pasture beneath the highest peaks in the world. Throughout the trek we eat delicious meals prepared by our skillful cooks. The trek will be moderately paced, allowing plenty of time for acclimatization, rest and site-seeing. The trek winds through some of the most spectacular mountain scenery on earth, where you can relax in exotic, friendly Sherpa villages. Our trusty yaks and porters carry all of your baggage, so you don`t have to carry a heavy rucksack. Our first destination is Mera Peak basecamp, located at 4800 metres/15,700 feet. back to top

• Rest Days: We will be taking a lot of them throughout the expedition. During your rest days we encourage you to concentrate on recovering, eating and drinking, to read, relax, listen to music and stroll around visiting other teams.

• Mera Peak:  At 6476 metres/21,246 feet, trekking Mera Peak provides great acclimatization before going on to Baruntse, as well as the chance to summit two peaks on the same expedition. The route is fairly straight forward from basecamp with only a few sections of fixed rope near the summit. We will take the opportunity to review climbing techniques, glacier travel, rope fixing, ascending, and descending on this relatively 'safe' mountain before the larger climb of Baruntse (photo right by Dan Mazur: Mera Peak, as seen on the approach trek to basecamp). 

From basecamp, we will move up a high snow pass called the Mera La and camp at 5400 metres/17,700 feet. The views here are stunning with a panoramic ring of Himalayan peaks surrounding the camp. From here we will continue up a short steep walk to Mera high camp at 5800 metres/19,000 feet, located near a rocky outcrop.

From the high camp it is possible to ascend to the summit in one day. The steady climb to the north summit (the true summit of Mera Peak) is rewarded with one of the finest viewpoints in Nepal, giving fantastic views of five 8000 metre peaks, Everest and Lhotse to the north, Kanchenjunga and Makalu to the east, and Cho Oyu to the west.

After descending and packing up, we will continue the trek to Baruntse basecamp descending further into the Hunku Khola Valley.

• Basecamp: Features comfortable dining tents with tables and chairs where our cooks and waiters will serve you delicious meals.

• Climbing to the high camps: We fix ropes all the way from basecamp to the summit.
• Basecamp at 5300 metres/17,400 feet: Our comfortable basecamp is established on a broad open valley next to a beautiful lake on the glacial moraine near the base of the mountain. 
• Camp 1 at 6100 metres/20,000 feet: From basecamp, we follow the right bank of the Barun Glacier, approaching the mountain towards the West Col. We first cross a wide, flat moraine and low angled, crevassed glacier to a snow gully leading up to the West Col. It is a 150 metre/500 foot climb up a 50 degree hard ice snow gully up to the West Col on fixed rope. Upon reaching the top there is a wide flat glacier plateau where we establish camp 1 (photo right by Tunc Findik: Camp 1 at 6100 metres/20,000 feet).
• Camp 2 at 6400 metres/21,000 feet: From camp 1 we begin a long glacier ascent. The climbing is low angled and we may use fixed rope to protect against open or hidden crevasses. As the slope steepens, we reach a small col where we establish camp 2. back to top

• Summit day: From camp 2, there is a short steep 75 degree ice wall we ascend to reach a small col at 6500 metres/21,300 feet. Next is a wide 45 degree snow shoulder up to 6700 metres/22,000 feet, where we reach the sharp summit ridge of Baruntse. We follow this up to a wide summit cone and finally to the true summit itself (7129 metres/23,390 feet).

From the summit you will be treated to incredibly stunning views of Lhotse, Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, and the Khumbu Himal. You may be surprised to see what a bit more altitude does to the great views you just had on Mera Peak as you experience one of the best panoramic mountain scenes in the world. back to top

• Who is this trip for?

• We encourage men and women from around the world, of all ages to join us as an individual team member or with your own group, whether that is your spouse, partner, friends, sibling, clients, colleagues, etc. Most of our members join as individuals, our team dynamics work well, and we are able to build successful and safe groups that enjoy trekking, climbing, and traveling together.
• We teach you everything you need to know about climbing during the trip.
• To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active winter-walker-climber in good health. Prior to joining, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice.

Please "click" one of the links on the column on the upper right of the screen under Baruntse to learn more about our expedition. back to top