Here's what Roger from Zurich had to say about SummitClimb:
After comparing and evaluating a bunch of expedition companies, SummitClimb seems to offer best what an experienced climber may expect: great infrastructure, professional organization and adequate services for people that wont need a hand-holding guide on the mountain. Thanks a lot for your great answers to my questions.
These photos were taken on our recent successful expedition where we put members and sherpas on the summit, and the team returned home safely. Photos in slideshow: Dan Mazur & Sean Burch. For caption information, please visit our Shishapangma photo gallery.
Full service includes: Sherpas, hotels, drive to basecamp (bc), yaks to advanced basecamp (abc), ropes, good food on trek, in bc, abc, & climb, group climbing equipment, tents, radios, satphones, etcetera.
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Recent News: Our Shisha Pangma Expedition has just returned with all 6 members and 2 sherpas reaching the summit. Our trekking members also walked to ABC and even higher. Click here to read news of our expedition, listen to audio dispatches, and view recent photos of the climb.
Some members ski Shishapangma (it is much better for skiing than Cho Oyu), as it has a north facing slope which is wind protected between camp 2 and camp 1/2. The snow is often best there and it's on the climbing route.
Please click one of the links below to view that section of our introductory information or just scroll down (photo right by Dan Mazur: The trail to advanced basecamp at 5400 metres/17,700 feet).
Introduction: Shisha Pangma, known in Tibetan as "the god of the grasslands", is the lowest of the world's fourteen 8000 metre peaks. It is also the only 8000-meter peak located wholly in Tibet. After an early attempt, it was first climbed in 1964 by a Tibetan-Chinese expedition and was opened to foreign climbers in 1978. The peak originally carried a Hindustani name: Gosainthan. People have descended it on skiis and for our next expedition, we are planning to offer a ski/snowboard descent option for those interested. The skiing and snowboarding are best in the camp 1 and camp 2 areas. Snowshoes or racquettes may be nice to have.
Our proposed schedule allows for a careful and safe ascent, as well as multiple full descents to advanced basecamp (photo right by Dan Mazur: Climbing near the Gendarmes on our summit attempt at around 7600 metres/25,000 feet).
The style of climbing is cautious and careful, with excellent leadership, organization, Sherpa climbers, 'walkie-talkie' radios, satellite telephones, the best oxygen bottles (many members do not use oxygen) and apparatus available,cooks and waiters, tasty food, the best equipment, individual tents for each member in basecamp, a full kitchen in basecamp plus advanced basecamp (ABC), 4 camps on the mountain, 1000s of metres of fixed line, hundreds of rock, ice and snow anchors, top-quality high altitude tents and high altitude stoves, expedition mix gas, and full safety equipment: medical oxygen, gamow bag, and extensive medical kit.
This expedition maximizes experience gained over three prior Shishapangma expeditions with a strong record of reaching the top and descending safely. In addition to more than 25 Himalayan expeditions we have an intimate knowledge of the Tibetan officials who regulate the permit system, liaison officers, sherpas, cooks, yak drivers, and hoteliers/restaurateurs.back to top
Leader and staff: During the drive, trek, in basecamp, ABC and on the climb, our experienced staff is with you all of the way. Our helpful climbing sherpas are some of the best. They are real high-altitude star-performers and very friendly. Our western leader is a highly experienced, friendly, and well-organized professional with multiple ascents of Shishapangma. Our skillful basecamp and ABC cooks prepare delicious, fresh, tasty food and hot drinks at least 3 times a day (photo right Dan Mazur: Looking up the route to camp 1 at 6200 metres/20,300 feet).
On trek: Our western leader, together with friendly and helpful sherpas, cooks and local people leading yak caravans carry all of your personal equipment, group equipment, and set up camp each day, prepare and serve delicious meals, so you can relax and enjoy the trek. You do not need to carry a heavy rucksack during the trek.
Our comfortable basecamp and ABC: Our cooks and waiters will serve you delicious meals in our heated dining tent.
On the mountain: Our western leader and group sherpas will fix the route, set up the high camps and carry the group equipment, such as tents, stoves, etc. If you wish to help out, we welcome you to do so, otherwise just relax and focus on getting well acclimated and achieving your goals. You do not need to carry a heavy rucksack during the climb.
Sherpas: We have many group sherpas to help the team. For an additional expense, we can also provide personal sherpas and climbing-guides to individual members who wish to have their own private sherpa. We now encourage members who wish to have a lighter rucksack to hire a 1/4 of a sherpa to help with high altitude equipment transport, carrying your extra weight both up and down the mountain. For information about hiring a personal sherpa, please click here to learn more. back to top
Shishapangma National Park: The park is situated among rolling, vast green short-grass and boulder strewn valleys leading up to the base of the mountain. The environment is beautiful and stark, inhabited with wild birds and animals. Upon reaching basecamp, you trek towards the mountain, where the vegetation changes to become more alpine and rocky, with the mountain looming upwards and provides great views of the vast Tibetan plateaus and two of Tibets most famous sacred lakes. Plants in the park range from spruce, pine, a wide variety of evergreen trees, as well as coldbelt grasslands. Many precious animals inhabit Tibet, such as antelope, deer, fox, gazelles, yaks, and many species of birds (photo right by Dan Mazur: Our comfortable basecamp at 5000 metres/16,400 feet. From here it is a two day trek to reach ABC).
Drive to basecamp: Our drive from Kathmandu, into Tibet and finally to basecamp is a relaxing and interesting adventure. We stop in medieval looking towns with dirt streets, experience Tibetan culture, while stopping to walk each day or so in the beautiful surrounding hills to acclimate to the rising altitude. It offers a great chance to encounter the vast Tibetan plateau and the surrounding Himalayan Giants. We end at base camp at 5000 metres/16,400 feet. Along the way we stay and eat at rustic hotels at the organizer's expense. back to top
Lhasa option:If you wish to add on a tour of the ancient city of Lhasa before arriving at basecamp, this is easily arranged so please let us know. Most people will prefer to fly to Kathmandu first to take advantage of the excellent equipment shopping there, then fly to Lhasa. The price includes a spectacular flight from Kathmandu to Lhasa over the Mount Everest massif. Some people prefer to fly to Lhasa from another city in China and we can also assist you with these arrangements.
Basecamp and advanced basecamp: Features your own private sleeping tent that will be all your own, not needing to be shared with anyone. We have comfortable, heated dining tents with tables and chairs where our cooks and waiters will serve you delicious meals.
Trek to advanced basecamp: A beautiful trek to the base of the 14th highest peak in the world. This trek is very accomplishable by the average person who enjoys walking. Normally, you never step on snow and there is no climbing, only walking on moraine trails. Advanced basecamp is located at 5400 metres/17,700 feet on the north foot of the mountain (photo right by Dan Mazur: camp 2 at 6700 metres/22,000 feet on top of the plateau).
Climbing to the high camps:
After ABC we walk along the lateral moraine of the Shishapangma Glacier, and at 5800 metres/19,000 feet, we cross the glacier to a flat area with many serac formations. We climb a skiable/snowboardable "headwall" at 20-34 degrees to camp 1 at 6200 metres/20,300 feet.
The route from camp 1 follows the bottom of a big glacial valley, then climbs another skiable/snowboardable "headwall" at about 30 degrees to a massive plateau where camp 2 is located, at about 6700 metres/22,000 feet.
From camp 2, we cross a large plateau before climbing a gradual slope at about 8-15 degrees. We then climb a marginally skiable/snowboardable headwall at 28-38 degrees dotted with rocky outcroppings starting at 7100 metres/23,300 feet, until we reach camp 3 on a protected and safe rock-crowned flat buttress at 7400 metres/24,300 feet. back to top
Rest Days: We will be taking a lot of them throughout the expedition. During your rest days we encourage you to concentrate on recovering, eating and drinking, to read, relax, listen to music and stroll around visiting other teams (photo right by Dan Mazur: Looking towards the true summit from the central summit at 8000 metres/26,200 feet.)
Summit Attempt: From the high camp, we ascend a fairly steep snow and rock ridge, past two huge gendarmes at 7600 metres/25,000 feet, and climb across snow slopes to the solid snow "knob" that tops the central summit at 8007 metres/26,262 feet. There is usually a tiny surfboard sized flat spot you can perch upon, take summit photos, and soak up the scenery. From here you are greeted by incredible views of Everest, Cho-Oyu, the Tibetan plateau, and so many kilometres of mountains that it will be difficult to absorb the site.
Who is this trip for?
We encourage men and women from around the world, of all ages to join us as an individual team member or with your own group, whether that is your spouse, partner, friends, sibling, clients, colleagues, etc. Most of our members join as individuals, our team dynamics work well, and we are able to build successful and safe groups that enjoy trekking, climbing, and traveling together (photo right by Dan Mazur: Our team in ABC).
To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active winter-walker-climber in good health. Prior to joining, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice. back to top
Please "click" one of the links on the column on the upper right of your screen under "Shishapangma" to learn more about our expedition.