MUSTAGATA

~ WALK, SNOWSHOE, SKI, SNOWBOARD, RAQUETTE THE NORMAL ROUTE ~

Leader: Jon Christian Otto, fluent Chinese speaker, Mustagata and China Expert, with 10 years experience and three successful summit ascents.

Interested? Please contact us: info@SummitClimb.com

* Our “full-service” expedition includes: 

* Our "basic climb" includes: 

Add the following services to the basic climb:

Basecamp kitchen, cooks, meals, dining, and sleeping tents: $1150, £550, €850.

High altitude leaders, sherpas, tents, equipment, walkie-talkies, food, stoves, fuel, etcetera:  $1150, £550, €850.

Jon Christian Otto, our expert leader with 5 summits of Mustagata, is a top notch climber, skier, snowshoer, leader, instructor, and a very nice person. He speaks very fluent Chinese and lives in China most of the year. Jon is resting in Subashi camp at 3600 metres, at the edge of the Karakoram highway, where our camels will meet us and carry our supplies up to basecamp, a four hour walk. Behind him is one of our excellent Ozark tents provided by our sponsors (Kahshin Leow). Ascending the gentle snow slope above camp 2 (6200 metres) on skiis and snow shoes. Most of Mustagata is not even as steep as this (DL Mazur). Jon on the summit on a cloudy sunny day with not too much wind a pretty amazing place to be snowshoeing and skiing around at 7500 metres (Walter Keller).

Leadership: During this expedition, you will benefit from the leadership provided by Jon Christian Otto, fluent Chinese speaker, China expert with ten years experience in Chinese Himalayan climbing, three-time Mustagata summit veteran, and fluent Chinese speaker. Jon is a very friendly and kind person;  an international diplomat, a highly-skilled professional who specializes in getting people to the summit and back down in 100 percent safety. For more about Jon, please "click" on the Leadership link above. 

Sherpas and Equipment Transport: Our expedition includes transport of all of your equipment from the road to basecamp, and returned to the road. While climbing on the mountain, we DO NOT ask our full-service members to carry heavy group equipment (although it is an option if you really want to), such as tents, rope, fuel, food, etcetera. We employ climbing sherpas, and high-altitude porters, to carry group equipment and supplies. For a minimal expense, we can also provide personal sherpas, and climbing-guides, to individual members who wish to have their own private sherpa or personal climbing-guide.

Awang, one of our professional Tibetan sherpa climbers, helping the team on the mountain. These strong Sherpas help us go up to the summit and back down and are a real asset to the team. He is standing outside of the tent at camp 2 at 6200 metres. He is standing in front of one of our expert-quality Ozark tents and you can see the skiis and snowshoes stuck in the snow/ They are very important for climbing Mustagata. For ascending, we use skiis and snowshoes every day above camp 1 and for descending, our members use skiis, snowboards, or snowshoes. (Jon Otto)

Training: Upon arrival in the basecamp, ALL full-service and basic-climb members are required to participate in one to two days of training in the areas of climbing techniques, glacier travel, rope fixing, ascending, descending, safety techniques, rappels (abseils), belaying, medical equipment and procedures, communications equipment, camping techniques and high-altitude cooking. For the expert and beginner alike, it is important to review these techniques in order to enhance skills, ensure safety-awareness, and work together as a team.

Safety: BOTH full-service and basic expeditions are allowed access to our extensive medical supplies, first-aid kits, medical oxygen, and a gamow bag in case of emergency. Thank you for being a well-prepared and safe team member!

Group Equipment: We provide a plethora of well-used, top-quality, and time-tested equipment, group gear, and supplies, including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection; basecamp and altitude tents; cookers, fuel, high-altitude food, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. We now provide an individual tent for each member in basecamp, so you do not have to share. Please see the above EQUIPMENT link, to study what we bring for your use and safety.

Our 2004 Mustagata team with all members, climbing sherpas, cooks, and staff, in basecamp at 4500 metres (Jon Otto).

Cooks and Food: On the road we eat in the local restaurants as available. In basecamp our skillful and hard working cooks prepare three hot meals each day with a very healthy diet of fresh vegetables, eggs, and fresh as well as tinned fruits, meats and fish (all meats and fish are prepared separately out of respect for the vegetarians in our midst). They supply you with unlimited hot-drinks, the key to successful acclimatization. We have large weather-proof kitchens and dining tents, with comfortable chairs and tables. On the mountain, above basecamp, we provide you with abundant and nutritious locally available quick-cooking food, so that you may prepare at least three meals and lots of hot drinks each day, in our specially designed high-altitude stoves using our butane-propane expedition mix fuel.

Personal Equipment: Snowshoes or skis with climbing skins are REQUIRED, and snowshoes may be hired locally, although it is best to bring your own equipment. Plastic Double climbing boots are required, as are good quality leather walking boots. For those who are not part of our full-service team, basecamp and high altitude services, equipment and supplies may be hired, at minimal cost, with advance notice. You will need to bring your own personal equipment, including rucksack, iceaxe, crampons, harness, helmet, plastic mountaineering boots, good quality leather boots, down/duvet jacket, wind/waterproof clothing, sleeping bag/mat, etcetera. In addition, we ask you to bring 2 of your favorite high-altitude freeze-dried dinners for yourself. Please see the above EQUIPMENT link, to study what is needed.

Team Member Experience: Our leader, Jon Christian Otto, and our team-climbing-sherpas, are there to ensure (for our full-service members) you make it up to the summit and down safely. However, this is not a guided expedition (although you could hire your own personal guide, sherpas, etcetera), and team members are expected to be able to care for themselves in a winter-camping environment. Although Mustagh Ata is considered to be an easy and low angle mountain, there are hazards present, and members must have knowledge of roped glacier travel (to protect for crevasse-falls). It is also required that all members will have an awareness of altitude sickness, frostbite, and the recognition of their symptoms, prevention, and treatment. Ascending above Camp 1, all members must be wearing snowshoes/skis and roped to another team member.  On descent (above camp 1) all members must be snowshoe-ing, skiing, or snowboarding. A minimum of snowshoes are required, but no snowshoe experience is necessary, as it is very easy to learn (5 minutes) upon arrival at Mustagh Ata. Snowshoes may be hired, but it is best if you have your own. If you will be skiing/snowboarding, you MUST BE EXPERT IN BACKCOUNTRY OFF-PISTE CONDITIONS. This is no place for a beginner skier or snowboarder. Neither solo climbing, nor descending, are allowed above Camp 1.

Kristine visits a Tajik Yurt near basecamp in July 2005 (Kellund Photo).

Fitness and Health: To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active winter-walker in good health. Prior to joining our group, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in extremes of altitude, and also for exotic locales. Make sure you have physically trained yourself very thoroughly before joining this climb of the world's easiest 7500 metre peak. We look forward to climbing together with you!

We assist you with transport from your arrival city to and from basecamp.

Your final destination is Mustagata, best reached via China, Pakistan, or Kazakhstan. The nearest city you fly to is your choice of: Beijing, Islamabad, Alma Ata, Urumchi, or Kashgar.

If you are coming from Beijing, Alma Ata or Urumqi; Kashgar will be the closest city to basecamp for you.  It is an ancient and famous Silk Road city, and an exciting and exotic place to relax, feast, and shop in the multi-hued bazaars.  This is perhaps the best market town in all of central Asia, and the visitor is exposed to an amazing variety of inexpensive handicrafts and manufactured goods, including jewelry, knives, shawls, carpets, and hats.  A wide selection of foods can be found here with fresh fruits, vegetables, breads, mutton, beer, and spirits in abundance.  If you are coming from Pakistan, Tashkergan is the closest larg(ish) town to basecamp.

To reach Tashkergan, the closest larg(ish) city to basecamp, when coming from Pakistan:

Quite often, people prefer to fly into Islamabad, Pakistan, and then take a bus on the Silk Road, also known as the Karakoram Highway (KKH), in order to reach Tashkergan, the closest larg(ish) town to basecamp, when coming from Pakistan. This is easily accomplishable, as english is widely spoken and a daily public bus service plies the road in both directions, to and from Islamabad all the way to Tashkergan and vice-versa. If you are coming from Islamabad, Pakistan, our staff will be there to collect you at the nearest town of Tashkergan, the famous capital of the Tadzhik people. Tashkergan is where your Pakistani transport will drop you on the way into China. On your return, via Pakistan, a Chinese bus will bring you all the way to Sust, over the top of the Khunjerab Pass, beyond the spine of the Karakoram. Your travel agent can help you arrange an inexpensive ticket to fly from your home airport to Islamabad, and return. We are glad to suggest an inexpensive travel agent if you need one.

Subashi at 3600 metres, which means pasture in the Tadzhik local dialect, is the starting point for our trek to basecamp (Photo:  J. Otto). Camels carry all of our posessions to and from Subashi to basecamp (it takes 4 hours) and are strange and strong beasts (DL Mazur). Subashi camp, on the edge of the Karakoram Highway, with Mustagata in the background (Jon Otto).

In the morning you awaken early, and board a bus for the drive to "Subashi" which means pasture in the local "Tadzhik" dialect.  By the side of the Karakoram Highway, at 3,600 meters, you will probably unload all of your equipment from the buses, camp, then the following morning, load your equipment onto camels. These sturdy beasts, led by their gentle shepherds, the "Kirghiz" people, will carry your belongings on a five hour walk to basecamp, while you accompany on foot, carrying nothing. You reach basecamp at 4,500 meters late in the day, have a tasty hot meal, and lots of hot drinks, then fall into your sleeping bag for a welcome sleep.  The following day, there is plenty of time to participate in our extensive mountain-climbing and medical and camping training, to really get basecamp well organized, rest, unpack everything, and (if you are part of our full-service team, or decided to hire basecamp cooks and food) enjoy many good cups of tea and juice and hearty meals of fresh local vegetables, grains, potatoes and fresh or tinned meat (separately prepared for the meat-eaters in our midst).  Your cook would, in the case you hired one,  be a local "Uighur", who is a trained chef, who knows what westerners like to eat, who we have used many times before, and is able to prepare a tasty, filling meal on a moment’s notice.  He is able to cook for a variety of palettes with a minimum of spices and oils, if you prefer. There is plenty of fuel for daily washing and showers in hot water, and for boiling drinking water (it is recommended you bring iodine tablets, and/or a water-filter for water purification, just in case).

Its time to climb Mustagata, the easiest 7500 metre peak in the world: We have chosen to climb the peak in July, a time when the snow conditions are good, the mountain is not too "melted-out", and the route is relatively pristine and clean.

Derek in our comfortable basecamp, near a stream at 4500 metres (DL Mazur). Jo and Andrew in Camp 1 at 5400 metres (Alex Fraser) . Bill walking down to basecamp from camp 1, after summitting (Jon Otto). Ellen and Angela in Camp 2 at 6200 metres (DL Mazur). Hans and Mark resting in camp 1. They made a "Basic-Climb" of the mountain with SummitClimb providing the services (Jon Otto).

Over the next few days, you hike up and down the mountain to Camp 1 at 5,400 meters.  The trail is mainly loose stones, is usually snow free and is done in leather walking boots (plastic boots are required above camp 1).  Most people prefer to hire the local donkey-drivers and their sturdy beasts, who will charge you a rate of 10-20 Chinese Yuan per kilo to carry your personal equipment such as sleeping bag and climbing boots, up and down the mountain. For the full-service crew, after our staff carries up the tents and supplies, and sets everything up, you move into Camp 1 and sleep.  Camp 1 is a small rocky flat place in a 15 degree hillside of loose stones, occasionally lightly snow covered. You rest and acclimate, and use your snowshoes (raquettes) or skis (with climbing skins) to explore the way to Camp 2 at 6,100 meters.  

In fact, snowshoes (raquettes) or skis (with climbing skins) are required above camp 1 for all team members ascending Mustagh Ata.  Snow shoes may be hired locally, but it is best if you have your own. If you have never snowshoed, its very easy and you can learn it on the mountain in five minutes or less. These slopes are lightly crevassed, so all team members are expected to be roped above Camp 1.  No solo-climbing, nor descending alone above camp 1, will be permitted. For descending above camp 1, snowshoes, skis, or a snowboard are required. If you are planning on skiing or snowboarding then you will need to be very confident. This is no place for a beginner skier or snowboarder.

Camp 2 is located on a nearly flat, 4 degree snow plateau.  Enroute to Camp 2, at 6200 meters, lies a miniscule ice fall.  It is not normally necessary to use fixed lines here. Although we are prepared to fix them, in case one of the tiny crevasses might open wide enough. In five years, this only happened once. Then you descend by snowshoe, ski, or snowboard down to camp 1 and walk back to basecamp. Eventually after resting in base, eating lots of good food and many cups of tea and other drinks, taking time to adjust to the altitude, and carrying equipment up to Camp 2, you sleep there.  The slopes above and below Camp 2 are sustained at a 20 degree pitch, and offer the best skiing and snowboarding.

Bill, Kahshin, and Brett resting on a sunny day in Camp 2 at 6200 metres (Jon Otto). Dan skiing with the Kongur massif behind (Richard Bothwell). Ellen Miller roped to another team member at all times above camp 1 (DL Mazur). This photo was taken in the camp 3 vicinity around 6600 metres. Snowshoer heading out in the early morning, up to camp 3 at 6800 metres. You can see how easy the climb is by looking at the gentle slope angle in this photo (Jon Otto).

Brett at camp 3 at 6800 metres the night before, getting ready for the jaunt to the summit in the early morning. His father Bill is rolling out his sleeping bag (Jon Otto). Richard snowshoe-ing up, preparing to snow board down (DL Mazur), Dan skiing down from the summit (Richard Bothwell) Dan and Walter on the summit. There are a few rocks here, so its easy to find the 7546 metre summit on the broad flat snow plateau at the top of the mountain. This was a windy and sunny summit day (J Otto).

On Summit Day, you head out of camp early, roped together, with your snowshoes, or skis and climbing skins.  If you are planning to snowboard down, you will be snowshoe-ing up carrying the board on your back. It takes 4 to 8 hours to reach the summit (7,546 meters) from Camp 3.  The slope begins at 18 degrees, then lessens to 5 degrees.  It is big and wide, with few or no crevasses.  You will continue to be roped for safety, however.  At the summit, you can look at the marvelous view in every direction, toward Pakistan and Rakaposhi, into the K2 area, across to the Tien Shan range, even into Afghanistan.   This is an invigorating place from which to view the planet.  After packing up all of your equipment and rubbish, its time for a careful descent, and you can be back in basecamp in one or two days. Finally we pack up basecamp, and load the equipment onto camels for the descent (for those who are part of the full-service team). Leaving Subashi, we retrace our steps to Kashgar (Tashkergan-Sust for those departing via Pakistan), and say our last goodbyes to our new friends before the flight home. Thanks for joining in!

SUGGESTED DAY-BY-DAY ITINERARY FOR MUSTAGATA NORMAL ROUTE