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Everest Tibet Training Climb Expedition North Col - Camp 1 (Lhakpa-Ri Optional)

  • everest tibet training North col camp in foreground. Background-slope to camp 2, then full route to c3-summit ridge. Photo Dan
  • Northcol Above North Col, way to camp 2. Photo Chris Bailley.
  • everest tibet training Member and Sherpa enjoying near Northcol. Photo Dan
  • everest tibet training Members climbing up in North Col - Photo Biff.
  • everest tibet training Member summiting Northcol. Photo Franz
  • everest tibet training Member enjoying Ice Training in Basecamp. Photo Franz
  • everest tibet training Testing climbing technique in basecamp. Photo Biff
  • everest tibet training Member standing near Northcol. Photo Edwin
  • northcolnews Everest Basecamp Tibet. Photo Dan
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  • Full Service Cost: $8,950, £6,750, €7,550Add on an ascent of Mount Lhakpa-Ri for $4,850 (Converted 16-08-2016)
  • Leader David O'Brien and Dan Mazur from UK and USA, 12 Everest expeditions, friendly, organised, good teacher.
  • Dates: 8 April to 5 May, 2018 & 22 April to 19 May, 2018. 28 days in Tibet.
  • New Flexible Date Option: arrive anytime at your convenience during April or May.
  • Full Service Price Includes: Leader David O'Brien , expert Sherpas, climb permits, transport from Kathmandu (KTM) to basecamp (BC), hotels in KTM and drive to BC, comfortable BC and advanced basecamp (ABC), trek to ABC, high camps, tents (individual BC tent per member), expedition costs, meals & food, climb equipment, fixed ropes and fees, radios, internet, international phone, etc.
  • Add an exotic and historical trip to the ancient Tibetan city of Lhasa. Optional trip to Lhasa, add $2450.
  • New Option: add on a trip to Mount Lhakpa-Ri, easy and beautiful 7000 metre / 23,000 foot peak located near Everest Advanced Basecamp.

Please Click Here
  • Quick, inexpensive, "easy" way to reach 7000 m / 23,000 ft. See how you feel at altitude on Mt. Everest.
  • How to train & prepare for climbing Everest: Climb the North Col for Everest expedition training.
  • Follow same route as teams trying for summit of Mount Everest. Attempted in 1924 by Mallory & Irvine.
  • Average group size four. 28 members & 12 sherpas reached North Col & Camp 1 during 8 training climbs.
  • We are available to help you buy & rent - hire inexpensive climbing gear, equipment, clothing, & boots.
  • The views of Everest from the Tibet trek are the best in the world, better than Nepal.
  • Learn high altitude ice and snow climbing and prepare for Everest.
  • Do well and transfer to Everest or Cho Oyu at no extra cost. 
  • This trip qualifies you for Cho Oyu , Everest from Tibet  and Everest from Nepal or Lhotse .
  • Not ready for the North Col Climb? Please check out Everest Glacier School or Island Peak Expedition .
Recent News: Our Recent Everest Tibet and North Col Expedition has just returned. Please click here to view news of our expedition. Please also visit our "Archived News" for more stories of past trips.
 
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Everest Tibet Training Climb NorthCol Program Description

Please click one of the links below to view that section of our introductory information or just scroll down (photo lhakpari northcol climb and trainingbelow by www.lhakpari.nepal-online.de: A good view of the route up Lhakpa Ri).

 
 
  • The North Col on Everest is 7000 metres/23,000 feet high, North Col at 6,800 metres/22,300 feeta spectacular location with incredible views and is directly on the main climbing route for Everest from Tibet. It is located on a high snow ridge above advanced basecamp. We teach you everything you need to know in special training sessions in base camp and the few days of climbing are mainly steep walking. The actual climbing on this fun trekking peak could be best described as steep walking/climbing, with climbers attached to fixed ropes and the dates we have chosen run in conjunction with the exciting spring Everest climbing season. Climbing up to the North Col could qualify you for climbing Everest

    (photo right by Ryan Waters: Climbers approaching the North Col at 6,800 metres/22,300 feet).

  • Lhakpa Ri is a pyramidal trekking peak at roughly the same height as the North Col, located across from Everest on the East Rongbuk Glacier. We teach you everything you need to know in special training sessions in basecamp and the few days of climbing are mainly steep walking. The actual climbing on this fun trekking peak could be best described as steep walking/climbing, with climbers roped together and the dates we have chosen run in conjunction with the exciting spring Everest climbing season. Climbing Lhakpa Ri could qualify you for climbing Everest
Our tents at the North Col at 7000 metres-23,000 feet, also known as camp 1. Photo David O Brien everest tibet, advance basecamp, northcol  reaching northcol

Our tents at the North Col at 7000 metres-23,000 feet, also known as camp 1. Photo David O Brien. Summit seen from ABC. Ry Fable. John and Edmond working on fix line to climb Northcol. Photo Katya. Team reaching Northcol. Photo David Roeske.

    • Our proposed schedule allows for acclimatization, training, practice and rest. Our expedition is cautious and careful, with excellent leadership, organization, Sherpa climbers, cooks and waiters, tasty food, the best equipment, two full kitchens in basecamp plus advanced basecamp, 1000s of metres of fixed rope, rock ice and snow anchors, top-quality high altitude tents and high altitude stoves, expedition mix gas, and full safety equipment: medical oxygen, gamow bag, and extensive medical kit. You do not have to carry a heavy rucksack for any portion of the trip.
    • This expedition to the North Col/Lhakpa Ri maximizes many prior expeditions, years of accumulated wisdom of the high Himalaya, a strong record of reaching the top of 7000 metre/23,000 foot & 6000 metre/20,000 foot peaks: Mustagata , Aconcagua, Island Peak, Ama Dablam, Kilimanjaro, Mt. Kenya, North Col, Lhakpa Ri, and many other summits. In addition to our growing number of successful worldwide expeditions, we have an intimate knowledge of the Tibetan and Chinese officials who regulate the permit system. We have been running expeditions to Tibet since 1986, and we know all of the liaison officers, sherpas, cooks, yak drivers, and hoteliers/restaurateurs personally. back to top  Trekking between basecamp and interim camp, which is located at 5,800 metres/19,000 feet, and halfway to ABC
  • Leader and staff: During the drive, trek, in Chinese Base, ABC and on the climb, our experienced staff is with you all of the way. Our helpful climbing sherpas are some of the best. They are real high-altitude star-performers and very friendly. Our western leader is a highly experienced, friendly, and well-organized professional with multiple ascents of North Col/Lhakpa Ri. Our skillful cooks prepare delicious, fresh, tasty food and hot drinks at least 3 times a day (photo right by Fredrik Strang: Trekking between basecamp and interim camp, which is located at 5,800 metres/19,000 feet, and halfway to ABC).
    • On trek: Our western leader, together with friendly and helpful sherpas, cooks and local people leading yak caravans carry all of your personal equipment, group equipment, and set up camp each day, prepare and serve delicious meals, so you can relax and enjoy the trek. You do not need to carry a heavy rucksack during the trek.
    • Our comfortable basecamp and ABC: Features your own private sleeping tent that will be all your own, not needing to be shared with anyone. We have comfortable, heated dining tents with tables and chairs where our cooks and waiters will serve you delicious meals
    • On the mountain: Our western leader and group sherpas will fix the route, set up the high camps and carry the group equipment, such as tents, stoves, etc. If you wish to help out, we welcome you to do so, otherwise just relax and focus on getting well acclimated and achieving your goals. You do not need to carry a heavy rucksack during the climb. back to top Our comfortable ABC at 6400 metres/21,000 feet. Located at the foot of Everest, this is perhaps the highest basecamp in the world. This is an exciting place to be, as teams from all over the world are preparing or in motion to climb the highest peak on the planet
  • Everest National Park: The park is situated among rolling, vast green (in May-June) short-grass and boulder strewn valleys leading up to the base of the mountain. The environment is beautiful and stark, inhabited with wild birds and animals. Upon reaching basecamp, you trek towards the mountain, where the vegetation changes to become more alpine and rocky, with the mountain looming upwards and the best views of Mt. Everest possible from this altitude, either in Tibet or Nepal. Plants in the park range from spruce, pine, a wide variety of evergreen trees, as well as coldbelt grasslands. Many precious animals inhabit Tibet, such as antelope, deer, fox, gazelles, yaks, and many species of birds (photo right by Ryan Waters: Our comfortable ABC at 6400 metres/21,000 feet. Located at the foot of Everest, this is perhaps the highest basecamp in the world. This is an exciting place to be, as teams from all over the world are preparing or in motion to climb the highest peak on the planet).
  • Drive to basecamp: Our drive from Kathmandu, into Tibet and finally to basecamp is a relaxing and interesting adventure. We stop in medieval looking towns with dirt streets, experience Tibetan culture, while stopping to walk each day or so in the beautiful surrounding hills to acclimate to the rising altitude. It offers a great chance to encounter the vast Tibetan plateau and the surrounding Himalayan Giants. We end at Chinese base camp at 5200 metres/17,000 feet, which is located just near the ancient and active Rongbuk Monastery. Along the way we stay and eat at rustic hotels at the organizer's expense.
  • Lhasa option: If you wish to add on a tour of the ancient city of Lhasa before arriving at basecamp, this is easily arranged so please let us know. Most people will prefer to fly to Kathmandu first to take advantage of the excellent equipment shopping there, then fly to Lhasa. The price includes a spectacular flight from Kathmandu to Lhasa over the Mount Everest massif. Some people prefer to fly to Lhasa from another city in China and we can also assist you with these arrangements.  back to top
everest tibet, yaks, views view The magnificent Potala Palace. Photo David O'Brien chinese basecamp, everest basecamp climber reaching next camps, northcol

Yaks are ready for loads. Photo David O'Brien. Team Members are Chinese Basecamp. Near camp 3. Photo David O Brien

  • Trek to advanced basecamp: A beautiful trek to the base of the highest peak in the world. This trek is very accomplishable by the average person who enjoys walking. Normally, you never step on snow and there is no climbing, only walking on moraine trails. From basecamp we trek up the amazing Rongbuk glacier, also known as the "Golden Highway", where there are gorgeous views of stunning peaks in the area, including Lakpa-Ri and all of its "Little Sisters", as well as Changtse and of course Everest. At 6,400 meters/21,000 feet, Advanced Basecamp (ABC) must be the highest basecamp in the world. Slightly above ABC, one of our Everest climbing expedition members is heading up to ascend the North Col, where camp 1 is located at 7000 metres/23,000 feet
  • Walking/Climbing Lhakpa Ri or North Col:
    • North Col: After ABC, clip in to the fixed ropes for a sloping glacier walk up to the North Col (camp 1) at 7000 metres/24,900 feet. The North Col on Everest is gained by trekking moderate snow with an ascending device (jumar), descender, ice axe and crampons. The slopes are 20 to 48 degrees with one small 5 metre/16 foot-high ice-step, all safely ascended and descended on fixed ropes. North Col is a pass between the Everest North East Ridge and beautiful Mount Changtse. There are incredible views here, looking towards Pumori in Nepal, as well as Lhakpa Ri (Photo right by Tunc Findik: Slightly above ABC, one of our Everest climbing expedition members is heading up to ascend the North Col, where camp 1 is located at 7000 metres/23,000 feet).
    • Lhakpa Ri: From ABC we head across the glacier to the pyramidal mountain on the flanks of the East Rongbuk Glacier. The walk follows a shallow, snow-filled depression on the southwest flank, ascending low-angled snow for the first half of the rise. It then steepens to angles of 30 to 35 degrees. After gaining the crest of the ridge close to the Lhakpa La, the route turns south and follows the snow ridge to the summit. Upon reaching the summit, we are afforded some of the best views of Everest and the surrounding Himalaya from either the Nepal or Tibet side.
Annette and Lhotse summiter Herman Kristen (the first Dutchman to summit Mt. Lhotse in 2008), near the summit of Lhakpa Ri (Peter Hage) Dawa Sherpa assisting Ken Stalter across a crevasse on the North Col (Dan Mazur). Members climbing to North Col - Photo Scott Patch Adi Koszta climbing up to the North Col

Annette and Lhotse summiter Herman Kristen (the first Dutchman to summit Mt. Lhotse in 2008), near the summit of Lhakpa Ri (Peter Hage). Dawa Sherpa assisting Ken Stalter across a crevasse on the North Col (Dan Mazur). Members climbing to North Col - Photo Scott Patch. Adi Koszta climbing up to the North Col.

  • Rest Days: We will be taking a lot of them throughout the expedition. During our rest days we will relax and enjoy a bit of walking and exploring in the surrounding countryside and local hills to get great views of Everest and the other Himalaya Giants. We encourage you to concentrate on recovering, eating and drinking, to read, relax, listen to music and stroll around visiting other teams. back to top
  • Who is this trip for?
    • We encourage men and women from around the world, of all ages to join us as an individual team member or with your own group , whether that is your spouse, partner, friends, sibling, clients, colleagues, etc. Most of our members join as individuals, our team dynamics work well, and we are able to build successful and safe groups of people that enjoy trekking, climbing, and traveling together (photo right by Tunc Findik: One of our team members taking a short hike above Chinese basecamp. On our rest days along the trek, we will have plenty of time to trek and explore the surrounding Tibetan plateau and get spectacular views of the Himalaya all around us. The pace allows you to do as little or as much hiking as you feel comfortable with, as you slowly acclimate to the rising altitude before setting out to ABC).
    • During the Lhakpa-Ri/North Col expedition, we teach you all of the skills needed to ascend safely in special training sessions in basecamp and advanced basecamp. Our training covers glacier travel, ascending and descending ropes safely, etcetera. If you do not already know about mountaineering you are welcome to join us and see how you feel at 7000 metres/23,000 feet.
    • If you decide you like it, we welcome you to join one of our 8000 metre climbs the next season, or if you are determined, a few weeks after climbing Lhakpa-Ri or the North Col, you could try going for the summit of Everest, or Cho Oyu the 6th highest mountain in the world.
    • To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active winter-walker in good health. Prior to joining our group, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice. back to top
  Chris Bailley using ladder to ascent while Martin taking a picture of him. Photo Rikke. Member using fixed rope while climbing up NorthCol. Photo Chris Bailley Chris Bailley carefully climbing up. Photo Rikke.
 

Member using fixed rope while climbing up NorthCol. Photo Chris Bailley. Member using fixed rope while climbing up NorthCol. Photo Chris Bailley.

Please "click" one of the links on the column on the upper right of your screen under "Everest Tibet Training Climb" to learn more about our expedition. back to top

Mount Lhakpa Ri/North Col Expedition Climbing Cost

* Our “full-service” expedition includes:

  • Leader: Cost includes a very experienced and qualified British, European, or American leader;
  • Climbing Sherpas for the group;
  • Transport to basecamp to/from Kathmandu, for you and equipment, including accommodation and meals on the road;
  • Yak transport of all equipment from the road to and from advanced basecamp;
  • Three hot meals per day in basecamp and advanced basecamp. Comfortable tables and chairs and dining tent;
  • Skillful basecamp and advanced basecamp cooks;
  • All mountain, basecamp and advanced basecamp food;
  • All permit fees and liaison officers;
  • Use of group gear and supplies: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection; basecamp and altitude tents; cookers, fuel, high-altitude food, walkie-talkie radios, satellite telephone, etcetera;
  • Emergency equipment and supplies: medical oxygen, gamow bag, basecamp medical kit, high-altitude medical kits, etcetera;
  • In addition to our top-quality high-altitude tents, we now provide an individual tent (1 tent per person) in basecamp.
  • Your trip includes 2 free Kathmandu hotel nights at the beginning and two free Kathmandu hotel nights at the end of the trip. You will be sharing. If you want your own single room, the cost is an aditional $32 per night (during the included four free hotel nights) and for extra nights $65 per person for single occupancy. Please bring extra cash to pay for your extra nights and / or your single supplement. We often stay at the comfortable three star Hotel Shakti. Its an excellent and classic hotel surrounded by green gardens and located in the heart of the city action near many delicious restaurants, the city's best mountain equipment shopping, and abundant nightlife all within a few minutes walk. The Shakti also offers lots of entertaining day trip (and night outing) options such as city tours, walking tours, rock climbing, mountain biking, wild game safaris, horse back riding, art classes, volunteer opportunities at orphanages, hospitals, schools, women's centres, bird watching, cooking classes, sport fishing, day peak climbing, herbal medicine seminars, day hikes, pottery classes, car tours, sightseeing, temple tours, henna handpainting classes, massage, swimming, beauty salon, motorbiking, yoga retreats, river rafting, painting classes, golf, language courses, kayaking, writing seminars, bungie jumping, religious worship, canyoning, hot tubs, health club, saunas, fitness center, spa treatments, Mount Kailash Treks, night clubs, meditation retreats, gourmet restaurants, cultural dance performances, wine tasting, pedicures and manicures, casino gambling, barber shop, discotheques, airport transfers, Scenic flights around Mount Everest and much much more. Meals in Kathmandu are at your expense.

Organization: During this full-service expedition, you will benefit from the organization provided by Dan Mazur. He is a relaxed, friendly and well organized person, and a highly-skilled professional with years of experience in getting people to the summit and back down with the highest attention to safety. He has been leading and organizing successful and safe overland, trekking, and mountaineering expeditions for over 20 years, to Tibet, Nepal, Tadjikistan, Pakistan, India, China, Africa, and North America. For more about Dan, please "click" on the Leadership link  back to top

Ancient Rongbuk Monastery in front of Everest Marker commemorating Everest Elevation measurement in Base Camp

Ancient Rongbuk Monastery in front of Everest.  Marker commemorating Everest Elevation measurement in Base Camp. back to top

Sherpas and Equipment Transport: Our expedition includes transport of all of your equipment from Kathmandu to advanced basecamp, and returned to Kathmandu. We could also bring you to basecamp from Lhasa, Tibet. More and more members are choosing to take the Lhasa option. While climbing on the mountain, we DO NOT ask our full-service members to carry heavy group equipment (although it is an option if you really want to), such as tents, rope, fuel, food, etcetera. We employ climbing sherpas, and high-altitude porters, to carry group equipment and supplies. 

Cooks and Food: On the road we eat in the local restaurants as available. In basecamp and advanced basecamp our skillful and hard working cooks prepare three hot meals each day with a very healthy diet of fresh vegetables, cheeses, eggs, and fresh as well as tinned fruits, meats and fish (all meats and fish are prepared separately out of respect for the vegetarians in our midst). They supply you with unlimited hot-drinks, the key to successful acclimatization. We have large weather-proof kitchens and dining tents, with comfortable chairs and tables. On the mountain, above advanced basecamp, we provide you with abundant and nutritious locally available quick-cooking food, so that you may prepare at least three meals and lots of hot drinks each day, in our specially designed high-altitude stoves using our butane-propane expedition mix fuel.

We provide you with a special high altitude stove and fuel canisters. Our stoves are of the "hanging" type, designed to be used inside the tent (well ventilated of course). We have found these to be the best possible stoves for high altitude use, as it is essential to cook inside the tent during stormy weather. Our stoves are suspended above the floor so you have room to sit comfortably and warmly in your sleeping bag while cooking.

Our high altitude fuel is of two types. Above 7000 metres/23,000 feet we use imported propane/butane 250 gramme canisters. Below 7000 metres/23,000 feet we refill the canisters with propane gas. Liquid fuel does not work above 6000 metres/19,700 feet so we don't use liquid fuel above basecamp or advanced basecamp.

The team practicing ascending and descending the fixed ropes in ABC at 6400 metres/13,100 feet. The low-angle ice we are practicing on is a very safe branch of the Rongbuk glacier (Elselien te Hennepe). back to top

Group Equipment: We provide a plethora of top-quality, and time-tested equipment, group gear, and supplies, including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection; basecamp, advanced basecamp and altitude tents; cookers, fuel, high-altitude food, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. We now provide an individual tent for each member in basecamp, so you do not have to share. We also have shower and toilet tent for Basecamp. Please see the above EQUIPMENT link, to study what we bring for your use and safety.

Staff: Our staff, working together as "Everest Parivar Expeditions, Pvt. Ltd." led by the experienced and influential Mr. Murari Sharma, are hospitality experts and have, for the last 21 years, been arranging overland tours, safaris, raft trips, treks, mountain climbs, trek support staff, cooks, peak climbing permits, satellite phone permits, video and film-making permits, translators, liaison officers, climbing Sherpas, oxygen, helicopter flights, air tickets, equipment purchase/hire, storage, import/export, shipping, customs clearance, transport bookings, advance hotel bookings, visas, repatriations, and permits.

Safety: BOTH full-service and basic expeditions are allowed access to our extensive communications equipment, medical supplies, first-aid kits, medical oxygen, and a gamow bag in case of emergency. Thank you for being a well-prepared and safe team member! back to top

Sorting loads at Chinese basecamp at 5200 metres (Bruce Manning).

*What is not included?

  • International flights to Kathmandu and back to your home country.
  • Mountain climbing rescue and travel insurance .
  • Personal climbing and trekking equipment and clothing .
  • Your Nepal visa is conveniently purchased by you upon arrival at the Kathmandu airport. It is not necessary to purchase a Nepalese visa prior to landing in Nepal. In 2013, the cost of a 90 day visa was $100 USD & 30 days visa cost $60. Please bring cash and 2 extra passport-sized photos (extra photos are necessary to obtain the visa in the airport). Because the expedition is in Tibet, we provide special support to you in Kathmandu in organizing your Tibet-China visa. Be ready to pay up to $220 USD (US citizens) and $165 USD (non-US citizens) for your Tibetan visa. It may be cheaper, but we will tell you and provide a receipt. Thank you. Please Note: Your passport must be valid for at least 6 months fom the END of the expedition and contain at least 2 blank pages.
  • Additional expenses like bottled or canned drinks on the trek, tips and gratuities, and expenses of a personal nature (ie: laundry or gift shopping) are not included.
  • We recommend the following tip for our group staff: North Col & Everest Training Climb: $200. Expect to pay the above tip no matter what.
  • Tipping Climbing Sherpas on our peak climbs: for a group Sherpa (Tibetan or Nepalese), who helps you to climb above the high camp or up to the summit and back down, expect to pay a summit-attempt bonus as follows: North Col & Everest Training Climb Summit Attempt Bonus: $50, Summit Success: $100.
  • Car or Jeep hiring for Tibet members: Please note that your amount of cash you need to bring is about $1000 more than our Nepal trips because it costs that much to hire a jeep to take you out early if you wish to leave before the scheduled end date of the itinerary. back to top

* Our "basic climb" includes:

  • Coordinator: Dan Mazur, leader of four successful Everest expeditions;
  • All permit fees and liaison officers;
  • Transport to basecamp to/from Kathmandu, for your personal equipment only (boots, ice axe, clothing, sleeping bag), including accommodation and meals on the road;
  • A walkie-talkie radio is provided to stay linked-in with the leader of the full service expedition while on the mountain;
  • Yak transport of your personal equipment only (boots, ice axe, clothing, sleeping bag), from the road to and from advanced basecamp;
  • Emergency equipment and supplies: medical oxygen, gamow bag, basecamp medical kit, high-altitude medical kits, etcetera;
  • Access to team fixed ropes and camps (sites, not tents), coordinated with our own "full-service" climbing team.
  • Airport transfers from Kathamandu Tribhuvan International Airport to your hotel and back at the end of the expedition.
  • Your trip includes 2 free Kathmandu hotel nights at the beginning and two free Kathmandu hotel nights at the end of the trip. You will be sharing. If you want your own single room, the cost is an aditional $32 per night (during the included four free hotel nights) and for extra nights $65 per person for single occupancy. Please bring extra cash to pay for your extra nights and / or your single supplement. We often stay at the comfortable three star Hotel Shakti. Its an excellent and classic hotel surrounded by green gardens and located in the heart of the city action near many delicious restaurants, the city's best mountain equipment shopping, and abundant nightlife all within a few minutes walk. The Shakti also offers lots of entertaining day trip (and night outing) options such as city tours, walking tours, rock climbing, mountain biking, wild game safaris, horse back riding, art classes, volunteer opportunities at orphanages, hospitals, schools, women's centres, bird watching, cooking classes, sport fishing, day peak climbing, herbal medicine seminars, day hikes, pottery classes, car tours, sightseeing, temple tours, henna handpainting classes, massage, swimming, beauty salon, motorbiking, yoga retreats, river rafting, painting classes, golf, language courses, kayaking, writing seminars, bungie jumping, religious worship, canyoning, hot tubs, health club, saunas, fitness center, spa treatments, Mount Kailash Treks, night clubs, meditation retreats, gourmet restaurants, cultural dance performances, wine tasting, pedicures and manicures, casino gambling, barber shop, discotheques, airport transfers, Scenic flights around Mount Everest and much much more. Meals in Kathmandu are at your expense.
 For more about our basic climb, please visit our "Notes for Basic Members" .

Please ask any questions regarding cost at info@summitclimb.com. back to top

Lhakpa Ri/North Col of Everest Climb Detailed Itinerary

Please click one of the links below to view that section of our Lhakpa Ri/North Col daily itinerary or scroll down. If you choose to do the Lhasa option, please note the slight itinerary alterations on days 3-7.

Please also visit our Lhakpa Ri/North Col route description for more about what to expect on the drive from Kathmandu, during the climb itself, etcetera.

Note: This is a proposed schedule, which has been developed through previous trips. The actual itinerary of your trip can differ depending on such factors as weather and local conditions. For example, the trip may finish earlier than these dates, or we may need every single day of the schedule. Thank you for being patient and flexible when coming to a foreign country like Nepal.


Arriving in Kathmandu:

1) Arrive in Kathmandu (1,300 meters/4,200 feet). Our staff will meet you at the airport. Go to hotel.

2) In Kathmandu - Bring Passport to Chinese Embassy, for Visa. Logistics, training, purchasing, packing, training, visit temples, city tour, shopping. Hotel and meals at members minimal cost.


3) In Kathmandu - Pick up passport from Chinese Embassy. Logistics, training, purchasing, packing, training, visit temples, city tour, shopping. Hotel. We may choose to depart Kathmandu for Tibet on this day.


Lhasa option: Fly from Kathmandu to Lhasa (Tuesday, Thursday, or Saturday, but this could change) or if you coming from a city in China, arrive in Lhasa this day. Back to top


Driving to Basecamp:


4) Bus to Tibet; drive to Nyalam (3,750 meters/12,300 feet). Hotel and meals at organizer's expense.


Lhasa option: Rest in Lhasa, tour Potala Palace and Jokhang Temple, the most sacred building in all of Tibet.


5) Rest and acclimatization in Nyalam (3,750 meters/12,300 feet). Walk around the local hills. Hotel.


Lhasa option: Drive to Shigatse. Rest and acclimate, tour the surrounding area. Visit the 15th century Tashilunpo Monastery, the largest active monastic institution in Tibet.


6) Bus to Tingri (4,300 meters/14,100 feet). Hotel.


Lhasa option:  Drive to Lhaze. Rest and acclimate, tour the surrounding area. Visit the Changmoche Monastery.


7) Rest and acclimatization in Tingri. Explore surrounding hills.


Lhasa option: Drive to Tingri. Rest and acclimate, tour the surrounding area.


8) Drive to Chinese basecamp (5,200 meters/17,000 feet). Camp.


9) Rest & acclimatization in Chinese base. Organize equipment and supplies. Camp.


10) Walk gently in the hills surrounding Chinese base.


11) Rest in Chinese base. Organize equipment and supplies. Camp.


12) Walk gently in the hills surrounding Chinese base.


13) Rest in Chinese base. Organize equipment and supplies. Camp. Back to top


Moving to Advanced Basecamp:


14) Walk with the yaks halfway to advanced base to interim camp (5,800 meters/19,000 feet). Camp.


15) Rest & acclimatization in interim camp.


16) Rest & acclimatization in interim camp.


17) Walk with the yaks to advanced base (ABC) at 6,400 metres/21,000 feet. Camp.


18) Rest & acclimatization in advanced base. Extensive training. Organize supplies.


19) Practice climbing techniques near to ABC. Camp


20) Rest in ABC. Camp. Back to top


Climbing North Col:


21) Walk partway up the North Col and down, camp in ABC.


22) Walk to camp 1 on North Col. Camp if weather permits.


23) Walk above the North Col and return to ABC, weather permitting.


24) Extra Day.  Back to top


Going Home:


25) Yaks transport equipment to Chinese base. Members walk down.

26) Early morning drive to Kathmandu;

27) In Kathmandu. Final packing, celebration, saying goodbye to new friends;

28) Fly home


Lhakpa Ri add-on


25) Rest Day in ABC.


26) Rest Day in ABC.


27) Walk to the summit of Lhakpa Ri and return to ABC.


28) Extra Day.


Going Home:


29) Yaks transport equipment to Chinese base. Members walk down

30) Early morning drive to Kathmandu;

31) In Kathmandu. Final packing, celebration, saying goodbye to new friends;

32) Fly home.Back to top

Thank you for joining our Lhakpa Ri / North Col Expedition.

Lhakpa Ri/North Col of Everest Expedition Route Description

Please click one of the links below to view that section for the route on Lhakpa RI/North Col, or scroll down.

Introduction-

The North Col on Everest is 7000 metres/23,000 feet, high and a spectacular location with incredible views and is located directly on the main climbing route for climbing Everest from Tibet. Climbing up to the North Col could qualify you for climbing Everest. It is located on a high snow ridge above advanced basecamp. The slopes are 20 to 48 degrees. The North Col on Everest is gained by ascending a steep snow and ice face with an ascending device (jumar) and ice axe and crampons. The climbing could be best described as steep walking/climbing, with climbers attached to fixed ropes at all times, and the dates we have chosen feature some of the most stable weather, with avalanche conditions at their most safest of the year. Our proposed schedule allows for plenty of acclimatization, training, practice and rest, as well as two possible summit attempts. Our style of climbing is cautious and careful, with excellent leadership, organization, Sherpa climbers, cooks and waiters, tasty food, the best equipment, two full kitchens in basecamp plus advanced basecamp, 1000s of metres of fixed line, hundreds of rock ice and snow anchors, top-quality high altitude tents and high altitude stoves, expedition mix gas, and full safety equipment: medical oxygen, gamow bag, and extensive medical kit.

This expedition to Lhakpa Ri and the North Col (Sometimes spelled Lakpa Ri / Northcol) maximizes many years of accumulated wisdom of the high Himalaya, a strong record of reaching the top of 8,000ers: Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho-Oyu, Shishapangma, and many other 8,000 metre summits, in addition to more than 25 Himalayan expeditions, in all safety, along with an intimate knowledge of the Tibetan and Chinese officials who regulate the permit system. We have conducted countless 7000 metre peak expeditions, and consider ourselves specialists in identifying, organizing expeditions to, and getting teams safely to the summit and back down, of the world's 7000ers. We have been running expeditions to Tibet since 1986, and we know all of the bureaucratic officials, liaison officers, yak drivers, and hoteliers/restaurateurs personally. back to top

Itinerary-

The proposed itinerary allows enough time for proper acclimatization, rest days, and several returns to base camp where the kitchen and base camp staff can look after all of your needs, and quell your appetite. The weather at this time of year is normally quite good and stable. However, we all know the global weather is changing, and in case of storms, you will note the proposed itinerary includes extra days as well. In previous expeditions, half of those who reached the summit needed every single "extra" day. back to top

Weather-

At low elevation, the temperatures can vary from 27°c to -7°c ( 80°f to 20°f). At higher elevations, the temperature can vary from 16°c to -23°c (60°f to -10°f). The wind is the most chilling factor, and can be quite variable, with everything from a flat calm, to hurricane force on the summit. There may be deep snow, heavy rains, mosquitoes in wet areas, blowing dust, burning heat, bright sunshine.

Arriving in Kathmandu-

The trip begins in the ancient and colorful city of Kathmandu (you could also start in Beijing). You stay in a comfortable, simple, clean, hot-water hotel, at minimal cost and sample some of the very reasonably-priced tasty Nepalese, Tibetan and Western-Style cuisine, available at the hundreds of local restaurants. During your free days in Kathmandu, while your Chinese visa is being processed, you shall finalize arrangements, purchase and hire the bits of equipment you might be missing at the hundreds of mountain-climbing and trekking equipment shops in the neighborhood (with low prices, as well), and take time out for trinket hunting, with suggested visits to explore the 17th century splendors of the Monkey Temple, the Durbar Square and old Kings Palace, as well as the ancient cities of Patan, and Bakhtapur. We also have several member and training sessions during these days, where our leaders spend time with you reviewing climbing techniques and equipment, going over medical and safety procedures, etcetera. If you are concerned about the altitude and have purchased Diamox (acetylzolamide) , which is inexpensively available with no doctor's prescription in Kathmandu, this might be the time to begin taking it. back to top

Optional Tour of Lhasa-

Some members wish to add an optional trip to Lhasa before reaching basecamp. If this includes you, most members will fly to Kathmandu first, then to Lhasa. Some people prefer to fly to Lhasa from another city in China and we can also assist you with these arrangements. For those flying from Kathmandu, you take a 1 hour and 45 minute flight in a jet over Mt. Everest and the spine of the Himalaya, arriving in Tibet's capital city. In the past, we have had some fabulous views out of the plane windows during this flight. 

At 3650 metres/12,000 feet of elevation, Lhasa was established around 600 AD on the banks of the Brahmaputra River. The heart of the city is centered around the Jokhang Temple, the most sacred building in all of Tibet. Our simple hotel is not too far from the famous Potale palace, Jokhang palace and the renowned Barkhor Market, where you can shop for exotic handicrafts and religious art from all across Tibet, China, and Buddhist India.

After flying to Lhasa, upon arrival you will rest for 2 nights and one day. It's important that you use the rest day to get acclimated to the high altitude.

 

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Buddhist pilgrims from Amdo region circumambulating the Jokhang Temple in the Barkhor market. Photo: J. Otto.

It is a three day drive from Lhasa to basecamp. From Lhasa, you will set out in government cars across the Tibetan plateau to meet the rest of the team in Tingri, before reaching Everest basecamp.

The following morning after your day in Lhasa, you will drive to Shigatse at 3650 metres/12,000 feet, the second largest city in Tibet, with a famous Monastery. The road winds along the massive Brahmaputra River, past traditional warren-like Tibetan farm towns. In Shigatse, you can have a look around and try to visit the 15th century Tashilunpo Monastery, the largest active monastic institution in Tibet. Monks in maroon robes seem to be everywhere, going about their daily chores, praying, and practicing ceremonial music performances.

After Shigatse, you will make the scenic drive to the ancient city of Lhaze (Lhatse), at 4000 metres/13,100 feet . At the western end of town is the small Changmoche Monastery, which you may visit while there. You can see interesting views of the surrounding Tibetan plateaus and hills.

From Lhaze, it is another scenic drive to the town of Tingri at 4,342 meters/14,200 feet, where you will meet up with the rest of the team and continue towards Everest basecamp. back to top

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The Tashilunpo Monastery in Shigatse, where more than 700 monks live and worship in the Buddhist religion. (Photo: J. Otto)

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A Tibetan farmer brings his goods to market on the road near Lhaze. (Photo D.L. Mazur)

Driving to Basecamp-

After the finalization of your Chinese visa, we set out very early in a bus for the 4 hour drive to the last Nepal town of Kodari at 1,770 meters/5,800 feet. We clear Nepalese customs and immigration, then hire local porters and vehicles to carry your bags across the Bota Kosi River on the Friendship Bridge, to Zhangmu, the gateway town in Tibet.

On the Friendship Bridge, border Crossing between Nepal and Tibet (Bruce Manning).

Upon entering Tibet, the clocks immediately go forward by 2 ¼ hours. Our secondary government liaison officer will meet us in Zhangmu. After clearing Tibetan customs and immigration, a Chinese bus takes us up the windy road through the rolling hills to Nyalam town at 3750 meters/12,300 feet, and a basic "hotel". The smaller towns in Tibet are generally simple and rustic places, and this one is no exception. The topography here is quite interesting in that we are perched in the transitional zone where the Tibetan plateau rams into the Himalaya, then drops into the forested valleys and jungles of Nepal, and finally out into the Gangetic plain of the Terai and India. We stay over one extra night in Nyalam, to help adjust to the altitude, and during our "rest-day" in Nyalam, we take advantage of the interesting surroundings to walk to the top of local hills and savor the first glimpses of the Himalayan Giants. back to top

Bouldering in Nyalam on our rest day (Felix Berg). On the road to Tingri, Himalayan Giants in the background (DL Mazur). Our sturdy Tibetan trucks carry the equipment, here being loaded by our Sherpas (Tim Spear).

In the morning we continue our bus-ascent into the Tibetan plateau, to the town of Tingri at 4,342 meters/14,200 feet. There are superb views of Shishapangma, Cho-Oyu, and Everest as we drive into Tingri. The town itself is a very basic one-street hamlet surrounded by the tents of nomadic Tibetans. About ½ of all ethnic Tibetans living in Tibet are nomadic or semi-nomadic. Our extremely rustic little hotel has an adequate restaurant, and it will be interesting to see if the high altitude has quelled our appetites for tasty fresh food. There are the ruins of an old fortress on a rise above town, and from here we can see the finest views of Everest , Lhotse, Cho-Oyu, and Shishipangma. We will take a rest day the following day in Tingri to adjust to the altitude.

A stop along the road near Tingri. There is a simply developed hot springs here. Only the very brave are able to tempt fate by entering the dirty water(Bruce Manning). back to top

The following morning, after what for many is a relatively sleep-free night, we drive the 70 kilometers/40 miles, to Everest base camp at around 5,200 meters/17,000 feet. The drive follows a dirt road along the Rongbuk Valley and has spectacular views of the Himalaya. Chinese base camp is located just near the medieval and active Rongbuk Monastery.

We will spend another 5 days resting, acclimatising, exploring the surrounding hills and organizing equipment into Yak loads at Chinese base.

Preparing our yak loads at Chinese basecamp (Bruce Manning). Blue mountain sheep in the cliffs above basecamp (Felix Berg). back to top

Moving to Advanced Basecamp-

We then spend the next day moving up to the "interim camp", which is located at 5,800 metres/19,000 feet, and halfway to the "advanced basecamp (ABC)". We will also take 2 rest days to acclimate to the change in altitude.

Yak train heading up to interim camp (Bruce Manning). Interim Camp at 5800 metres/19,000 feet, where we acclimate for a day or two before heading up to ABC (Tim Spear).

Next, we spend two days working our way up to ABC. 6,400 meters/21,000 feet, ABC must be the highest basecamp in the world. It is located on a rocky moraine next to the Rongbuk Glacier.

Franck walking up the Rongbuk to ABC (Tim Spear). Our comfortable ABC at 6400 metres/21,000 feet, A view of the mountain at sunset from ABC (Ryan Waters).

Upon reaching ABC, we will take another rest and acclimatization day, this time going over our equipment, safety procedures, climbing techniques, cooking and camping methods, and working to form ourselves into a more cohesive team. back to top

Climbing Lhakpa Ri or the North Col

After resting and completing our training, we will begin our climb of Lhakpa Ri or the North Col.

Through the following 4 days, we will cautiously climb the mountain, fixing rope where necessary, according to the schedule suggested below. After ascending to the 7,045 metre/23,100 foot summit of Lhakpa Ri, or climbing up to the 7,000 metre/23,000 foot North Col on Everest, we will descend and make our way back down to advanced basecamp.

Climbers approaching the North Col at 6800 metres/22,300 feet. Lines are fixed here for safety. Our tents at the North Col at 7000 metres, also known as camp 1. Climbers Walking up to the 7500 metre/24,600 feet, camp, also known as camp 2. You can see the tents in the North Col in the background (Ryan Waters). Our team members on the summit of Lhakpa Ri on a perfect day in the Himalaya (Dale Wagner). back to top

Going Home-

After packing up all of your equipment, supplies, and rubbish, you will make a short return trek and drive to Tingri, have a feast at the restaurant and stay in the hotel. The following morning, you are up early, and drive all the way down to Zhangmu, hire porters to carry everything over the Friendship Bridge, then catch a bus into Kathmandu, where you can enjoy a hot shower and a grand Nepalese western-style feast. In Kathmandu, you can have a day to relax, celebrate, tour the valley, write postcards, and do a bit more shopping, before heading home. We hope you had a safe, enjoyable, and successful adventure. Thanks for joining in! back to top

Thank You for joining our Lhakpa Ri/North Col Expedition.

Everest Tibet Training Climb Expedition to North Col - Camp 1 Reviews, Testimonials, Complaints, and Comments.

Please scroll down to read our Reviews

Here is what Edmond says:
I vouch for it! A great trip and a chance to stand on Everest's shoulder.

Here’s what John has to say: I think that everyone did a great job.  I was surprised at the logistics there are in getting people from all over the world organized and geared properly and to the starting point, let alone up the mountain. Very impressive! 

The trip leaders, sherpa’s, cooks, and drivers were all first rate.  We had a great Sherpa and didn’t seem to need much from the team leader.  If anyone is unsure whether they can go for the summit or not, then this is a good way to feel all of the parts of the climb. You can then decide later if you think that you can summit the next time. (or at least try)  I am in that exact thought process now! I could not have been happier with everything

 John and Edmond are in ABC. Photo-Katya

John and Edmond working on fix line to climb Northcol. Photo Katya. John and Edmond are in ABC. Photo-Katya.

Here is what Steven Says: I just wanted to say thanks to all of the SummitClimb team for a great trip, as you know things were up and down and changing almost every day and in some cases every hour.

The SummitClimb leader did a great job with me and the clients he has, I realise the rest of the group are still on Everest or Cho I am back home now and just wanted to say Thanks for all your help.
Can you please pass on my best regards to everyone.  

Photo Steven Greenhalgh. Yak-carrying our expedition equipment at ABC.-Photo-Katya

Here is what Tom says: It was an awesome expedition. Solid team. The sherpas were dedicated, friendly, good English. Top-notch food and accommodation. Lots of jokes and good times. The leader was a champ. Thanks for putting it all together. It was a privilege to be a part of it. I still look at my high altitude boots everyday and wish i was back there =). Thanks, Tom

(photo by Ryan Waters: Climbers approaching the North Col at 6,800 metres/22,300 feet). (photo by Fredrik Strang: Trekking between basecamp and interim camp, which is located at 5,800 metres/19,000 feet, and halfway to ABC).

Here is what Troy says: "First of all thanks for everything. I appreciate everything you did to make this a safe and successful expedition."

Here is what Bruce says:
"I thought the expedition worked well and it was another good group of people you put together. I look forward to climbing together again and seeing you next time."

Annette and Lhotse summiter Herman Kristen (the first Dutchman to summit Mt. Lhotse in 2008), near the summit of Lhakpa Ri (Peter Hage). Dawa Sherpa assisting Ken Stalter across a crevasse on the North Col (Dan Mazur).

Here is what Phil has to say: "The expedition is ideal for individuals or groups of climbers who wish to participate in a Himalayan expedition at a reasonable price. The price is only slightly higher than the cost of organizing your own independent expedition. You have the wealth of experience provided by the organizers and land leaders, who use no middlemen, dealing directly with the government mountaineering office.

Allows a member to experience the Himalayas a little bit as the first pioneer climbers did when there was no such thing as commercial expeditions. Some climbers without the contacts and knowledge to organize their own trip will enjoy how all logistics are taken care of by professionals, from your arrival at the airport to your departure from the staging city.

All group equipment and oxygen used is of the finest quality and replaced on a frequent basis. Leaders are professional climbers, there to assist the members and give advice rather than just dragging someone to the summit and down. The western leaders and local Nepalese and Tibetan Sherpas are some of the best, season after season.

The style of expedition is structured but relaxed with all team members having a say in the day to day running of the trip, although the leaders have the final decision on issues that effect the safety of the team. Of course, some people will prefer to pay the higher prices asked by some of the professional guiding companies.

The expedition provides similar high mountain and base camp food and equipment as the higher priced companies, and especially pride themselves on the training of the Nepalese and Tibetan sherpas in technical climbing, and assisting the members in every way. The kitchen staff are diligent in their tasty food production, preparing plenty of hot drinks, and hygiene practices.

You come home after the expedition with a sense of achievement and friendship. You have been a team member in an expedition rather than a guided client."

Sherpas and climbers at crampon point after descending North Col from Summit - Photo mia Graeffe Members at ABC dining tent reliving the summit bid - Photo Mia Graeffe

Sherpas and climbers at crampon point after descending North Col from Summit - Photo mia Graeffe.Members at ABC dining tent reliving the summit bid - Photo Mia Graeffe. 

Here is what Arnold has to say about climbing Lhakpa Ri/North Col:

"It’s a full service expedition with everything taken care of. Or you can go in simple style with the basic climb.

It involves some very interesting history of Mallory and Irvine and the 1920s expeditions.

SummitClimb's strong team has fixed the route two years in a row.

It's less of a circus atmosphere.

There is a nice slow pace of approach and climb.

The challenging and breathtaking trek to ABC along the "miracle highway" has been referred to as "like crossing the moon".

There are many rest periods at low altitude villages between forays to the cold and windy heights. It keeps you strong.

Our leaders are very team focused, dedicated and hard working, with attention to the member's needs and details.

Our teams are focused on letting each member go at his/her own pace with support from our leaders and sherpas.

We have excellent staff and Sherpas.

The basecamp food is excellent with plenty of hot drinks.

Our equipment is strong and plentiful."

Here is what Garth had to say:

"Good that we are all back safe and sound, well done to you! I had a fantastic time out in Tibet, what an incredible experience. Jon, the Prentice Brothers and myself left Tibet saying that we would return

We take our member's feedback and testimonials seriously. These help us to refine and make our Lhakpa Ri/North Col expeditions a successful, safe, and enjoyable experience for our future teams.

Lhakpa Ri/North Col Expedition Climbing Leadership & Staff

Leadership: During this full-service expedition, you will benefit from the leadership provided by David O'Brien

David at summit of Everest. Photo Chris Bailley

  David at summit of Everest. Photo Chris Bailley.

During your full-service expedition, you will benefit from the leadership provided by David O'Brien. David has climbed in the Indian and Nepalese Himalayas as well as in the Alps. He has led expeditions in the high arctic island of Spitsbergen and has a liking for the cold and remote having crossed Greenland by ski. He has organised and led overland trips in Asia and North Africa.

David has been climbing and working with Summit Climb since 2006 and is a thoughtful, considerate leader. He was assistant leader on Everest in 2010 and will be back on Everest for the fourth time this year. He is a Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society and lives in London with his partner and child.

Organization: During this full-service expedition, you will benefit from the organization provided by Dan Mazur. He is a relaxed, friendly and well organized person, and a highly-skilled professional with years of experience in getting people to the summit and back down with the highest attention to safety. He has been leading and organizing successful and safe overland, trekking, and mountaineering expeditions for over 20 years, to Tibet, Nepal, Tadjikistan, Pakistan, India, China, Africa, and North America. For more about Dan, please "click" on the Leadership link above.



A meeting on the roof of our hotel, where we describe the plan of our expedition. The audience, our trekkers and climbers. Felix and Arnold demonstrating the members high mountain equipment before a shopping trip to one of Kathmandu's 50 mountain shops to purchase any needed essentials for the members (Franck Pitula).

Note: Our leaders are not guides. They are there to coordinate the expedition and may or may not climb with you personally on the mountain. Our leaders will try to do everything they can to help you, but it is your responsibility to have the skills, strength, equipment, etcetera to do this climb. If you are unsure, you may wish to hire a personal sherpa.

Sherpas: We hire Sherpas and high altitude porters in a support capacity, and now have 23 of these very experienced, friendly, strong, helpful, and loyal people on our staff, including some of Nepal and Tibet's best climbers and some of Nepal's only women Sherpas. Some of our Sherpas have been to the summit of Everest more than 7 times and countless times to Lhakpa Ri/North Col. One of our lady sherpas just became the first Nepalese woman to reach the summit of Ama Dablam, Pumori, and Cho Oyu. Many of our sherpas have personally assisted foreign climbers to the summits of more than ten of the highest peaks in the Himalaya. 

Note: We strive to provide one group sherpa for each 3-4 members. The group sherpa's duty is to carry group equipment such as tents, rope, food, and gas up and down the mountain. Group sherpas help to setup and take down camps. They are also there to try to assist in any rescues, so the other team members may not have to give up their summit attempt to rescue a sick member. They will most likely be climbing and trekking with the team most of the time.

Tibetan Mountain School-We have been working with the Tibetan Mountain School to educate and train extremely strong and helpful Tibetan climbers, staff, and cooks. They have climbed Everest Tibet , Cho Oyu, Shishapangma , Mustagata , Nojin Tangla and many other summits together with us. They are not only adept and fearless climbers, but they are also learning to cook and their English is getting better. They were born and raised in Shegar, Tibet, a town which lies above 4000 metres/13,100 feet.

Our awesome Tibetan Sherpa team at Cho Oyu ABC at 5600 metres/18/400 feet, with Tunc (pronounced "toonch"). He is a strong friendly climber from Ankara. Here is what SummitClimb leader Phil has to say about the photo: "The names are from left to right: Wangdu (from Lhatze, Tibet), Tsering Dorje (Nyalam), Tashi Tsering (Shigatse), Tunc Findik (Turkey) and Aden (Shegar). Tunc has climbed Lhotse , Pumori, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Everest from Tibet and guides on Elbrus. All the Tibetan climbers came from the Tibetan Mountain School in Lhasa and have climbed Everest from Tibet at least once with Tashi making the summit three times. SummitClimb have been supporting the school since day one.

Staff: Our staff, working together as "Everest Parivar Expeditions, Pvt. Ltd." in our busy agency office in Kathmandu is led by the experienced and influential Mr. Murari Sharma. They are hospitality experts and have, for the last 21 years, been arranging overland tours, safaris, raft trips, treks, mountain climbs, trek support staff, cooks, peak climbing permits, satellite phone permits, video and film-making permits, translators, liaison officers, climbing Sherpas, oxygen, helicopter flights, air tickets, equipment purchase/hire, storage, import/export, shipping, customs clearance, transport bookings, advance hotel bookings, visas, repatriations, rescues, and permits.

Our staff in Kathmandu are available to assist you 24 hours per day, seven days per week. It does not matter which day nor at what time you arrive or depart Kathmandu, they will meet your flight, take you to the hotel, help you find essential things like money changing, shopping, arrange tours of the city, etcetera. 

Top row from Left: Murari K. Sharma - Everest Parivar Exp. Pvt. Ltd(MD), Jangbu Sherpa - Climbing Sherpa, Pemba Sherpa - High Altitude Kitchen Boy, Dorjee Lama - High Altitude Kitchen Boy, Tempa Sherpa - Basecamp Kitchen Boy, Krishna Rana Marag - Trekking Guide, Deha K Shrestha - Manager. Bottom row from left; Jens Vogel, Kandu Sherpa - Lady Trekking Guide, Cho-Wang Sherpa - Friend, Maya Sherpa - Lady Climbing Sherpa.

Our leaders, staff, and sherpas look forward to serving you on our expeditions to form a successful team and create a rewarding experience.

Lhakpa Ri/North Col Expedition Climb - Your Experience & Training

Please "click" one of the links below to go directly to that information or scroll down.

Team Member Experience:

During the Lhakpa-Ri/North Col expedition, we teach you the skills needed to climb to the summit of Everest, if you do not already know about mountaineering. Then, if you decide you like it, a few weeks after climbing Lhakpa-Ri or the North Col, you could try going for the summit of Everest, or Cho Oyu the 6th highest mountain in the world.

We welcome you to join our expedition as an individual and most of our members do. We plan to assemble our team members into groups so you should not have to climb alone, although occasionally it may happen. By the way, we are unable to accommodate 'soloists' who are not willing to climb together with other team members or sherpas from our team. The main expectation is that members will be prepared to climb with a team member or sherpa above basecamp if possible. This practice ensures that the entire team has a fun, successful, and safe time on the mountain. back to top

Fitness and Health:

To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active winter-walker-climber in good health. Prior to joining our group, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in extremes of altitude, and also for exotic locales.

Note: You can purchase all necessary medicines inexpensively with no doctor's prescription in Kathmandu. Please make sure you have physically trained yourself very thoroughly before joining this climb. For a list of the medications we recommend you purchase, please click here . We look forward to climbing together with you! back to top

Training Prior to the Expedition:

  • Firstly, you should always consult your doctor before starting a rigorous exercise plan.
  • In the beginning, to see how you handle the training, and to avoid muscle strains that could slow your training down, you may wish to use shorter more frequent but less taxing workouts, and take more rest. After you get "up to speed" as it were, you could increase the rigour. Older climbers and walkers please take note of the latter. Also remember that swimming is an excellent form of training because it does not put stress upon your joints. Thank you.
  • In order to train well for your trip you should work toward excercising 3 to 4 times a week for between 40 minutes and an hour and a half each time. You should expect to work hard, and try to keep your heartrate quite high and your breathing quite heavy.
  • Adequate rest and a well balanced diet are also essential to avoid injury and illness before the expedition. You should sleep at least 8 hours per night, and eat 3 nutritious meals a day. Don't forget that you will perspire when you train, so try to drink at least 4 litres/quarts of water a day.
  • You may wish to engage the services of a personal trainer, who could help you to fine tune your fitness to a higher level while minimizing strain and maximising your potential in ways you might not have imagined. Personal trainers can also be a great motivator, as you and the trainer have your weekly session, thus you will feel an incentive to complete your planned fitness programme for that week.
  • Utilising both gym equipment and the great outdoors will provide a more balanced exercise programme. You should try to accomplish at least half of your workouts outside. This could include walking and running (On stairs and hills too) and cycling, but above all should be fun! Hillwalking and climbing with a pack weighing 5-10 Kilos/10-20 pounds is essential. If you don't have hills, why not go for stairs, bleachers, viewing stands, stadiums, even the stairways in tall buildings? Don't forget to spend time directly working the muscles of the legs, back and shoulders, and remember that your own body weight can be just as effective as weights, or machines.
  • About 6 weeks before the expedition departure date, you may wish to do 1 full day each week of hill walking, climbing or an equivalent, with a light rucksack. On that day, you would want to eventually work toward six-eight hours of continuous walking or climbing up and down hill, with 4 to 6 separate ten minute breaks and a 1/2 to 1 hour lunch break midway through.
  • To minimize the chance of injuring yourself, consider starting with a half day and then if you do well, increase to 2/3, then eventually to a full day, once a week.
  • We want you to arrive for your expedition in top shape, so please take plenty of rest and do not over-do it.
  • Hint: when carrying a rucksack while descending, walking, or climbing down-hill, try carrying a bit less in your rucksack in order to save your knees. Many trainers advise carrying water bottles up the hill then emptying them at the top so your rucksack is lightened for the trip down. back to top

Training During the Expedition:

  • Upon arrival in Kathmandu and in the base camp, ALL full-service and basic-climb members are requested to participate in one to two days of orientation to how the trip will be operated. There will be plenty of time for discussion, question answering, and for equipment review and purchasing. Training will be conducted both in Kathmandu and in basecamp in the areas of climbing techniques, glacier travel, rope fixing, ascending, descending, safety techniques, rappels (abseils), belaying, medical equipment and procedures, communications equipment, camping techniques and high-altitude cooking. For the expert and beginner alike, it is important to review these techniques in order to enhance skills, ensure safety-awareness, and work together as a team.

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We hope that you will arrive for your Lhakpa Ri/North Col Expedition in good health, both mentally and physically prepared, so we can work together as a team and have a successful expedition.

Lhakpa Ri/North Col of Everest Climb - Personal & Team Equipment


Below is a detailed list of equipment you need to bring for Lhakpa Ri/North Col and at the bottom is a description of team equipment that we bring for you. (Click Link below to go directly to that section of the personal equipment list or just scroll down):

Please go to our personal & team equipment section of the "Lhakpa Ri/North Col Questions" for additional information and detailed discussion of the equipment lists below.

Where should I purchase my equipment?
Please "click here" to view our list of recommendations on where to purchase kit from our Lhakpa Ri/North Col Frequently Asked Questions.

Climbing-

  • Climbing harness;
  • 5 metres / 15 feet of 6mm climber's accessory cord.
  • Figure 8/Abseil belay device;
  • 1 large mitten sized ascender (most members use the large petzl) and arm length leash;
  • 2 locking carabiners, 1 large and 1 small;
  • 4 regular carabiners;
  • Ice axe w/leash;
  • Crampons - must fit boots perfectly. Steel crampons with anti-balling (anti-bot) plates are the best;
  • Optional; Adjustable trekking poles; back to top

Upper Body-

  • 2 cotton t-shirts;
  • 1 polypropylene t-shirt;
  • 2 long sleeve polypropylene shirts, lightweight;
  • 1 polar fleece pullovers, medium weight;
  • 1 polar fleece jacket.
  • Gore-Tex jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable;
  • Umbrella (optional);
  • For April trip: 1 very warm goose-down (duvet) jacket with hood (for May, a medium weight down jacket should suffice); back to top

Hands-

  • 1 pr. lightweight poly-liner gloves. These will be worn when tying knots, but not inside your mitts;
  • 1 pair mittens, consists of 1 Gore-tex over mitt matched with the very warm polar fleece mitt liner (For more about high altitude mitts, please click here).

Head-

  • Helmet;
  • Warm hat wool or synthetic that covers your ears;
  • Balaclava;
  • Face mask;
  • Ballcap or brimmed suncap;
  • Glacier sunglasses with side shields (you can purchase these inexpensively in Kathmandu, including prescription sunglasses, which can be made for $20, it might take a week or two);
  • 1 pair ski goggles (Optional) with light and dark lens;
  • Headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs;
  • Bandana or head scarf, also useful for dusty conditions. back to top

Lower Body-

  • Cotton underwear briefs;
  • 1 pair walking shorts;
  • 1 pair walking trousers for trekking and around camp;
  • 2 pair lightweight thermal bottoms;
  • 1 pair medium or expedition weight thermal bottoms;
  • 1 pair polar fleece trousers;
  • 1 pair Gore-Tex trousers, salopettes, or bibs. Waterproof/breathable with full side zips;
  • Optional: for April expedition-1 pr. Goose-down (duvet) trousers , salopettes or bibs.

Your clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags. back to top

Feet

  • Optional: for April trips - 1 pair One-Sport Millet Everest boots or equivalent, otherwise;
  • 1 pair double plastic boots (koflach);
  • 1 pair sturdy leather walking boots with good ankle support (we mean leather trekking, not climbing boots) for the walk to advanced basecamp;
  • 1 pair trainers, running shoes and/or sandals for Kathmandu and in camp;
  • 1 pair down booties (optional);
  • 2 pair med-heavy poly or wool socks;
  • 2- pair of liner socks. Polypropylene or wool;
  • Vapour barrier liner socks or plastic bread-bags;
  • 2 pair lightweight trekking socks, poly or wool;
  • Cotton socks for in town.
Sleeping-

  • 1 sleeping bag (good to -10 degrees C or 10 degrees F). In the high camp, you can sleep in your down (duvet) clothing inside your sleeping bag;
  • At least 3 closed cell foam kari-mats for use in basecamp and high altitude, We do not recommend inflatable mats, as we have never seen one not puncture. You can buy these non inflatable mats very inexpensively in Kathmandu. Why carry foam mats around the world, when you can purchase them inexpensively in Kathmandu?
  • Your sleeping bags should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags. back to top

Rucksack and Travel Bags-

  • 1 medium rucksack (50-70 litres / 3000-4500 cubic inches, can be used for airplane carry);
  • Waterproof rucksack cover (optional);
  • 2 large (120 L / 7500 cubic inch) duffle kit bags for clothing and equipment. Must be durable for use on pack animals;
  • Small padlocks for duffel kit bags. back to top

Personal Hygiene-

  • female or male hygiene supplies;
  • 2 tubes lip sun cream, 1 large tube skin sun cream (min.factor 15);
  • anti-mosquito cream;
  • 1 toothpaste/brush;
  • 1 bar soap or hand sanitizer gel/1 small towel;
  • hand wipes. back to top

Medical-

Medications are inexpensive and readily available in Kathmandu with no Doctor`s prescription:

  • small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, first-aid tape, plasters (band-aids), personal medications, etc. The leaders will have extensive first-aid kits, so leave anything extra behind. Please let your leader know about any medical issues before the climb;
    • 1 skin blister repair kit;
  • 1 small bottle anti-diarrhea pills;
  • 1 small bottle anti-headache pills;
  • 1 small bottle cough and/or cold medicine;
  • 1 small bottle anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox, Acetylzolamide. For more about this medication, please review the information in our Lhakpa Ri/North Col Questions .
  • 1 small bottle stomach antibiotic: Ciprofloxacin, etc.;
  • Do not bring sleeping pills. They are a respiratory depressant;
  • 1 small bottle of water purification tablets or water filter;
  • 1 set earplugs;
  • extra prescription glasses, contact lens supplies. Contact lens wearers, please bring glasses in case of emergency. A new pair could be quickly made in Kathmandu, Lhasa, or Kashgar for just $20. Please order upon arrival if you are interested.back to top

Personal Food-

  • Our skillful cooks prepare 3 delicious hot meals and plenty of drinks each day in basecamp and advanced basecamp.
  • On the mountain we supply plenty of food for you to cook 3 hot meals each day. This food will consist of soup, local cheese & sausage, biscuits, dried noodles, potatoes, rice, porridge, butter, dried and tinned vegetables, fruit, meats, and fish, tea with milk and sugar, powdered juice drink, and drinking chocolate. Our sherpas will be carrying this food to the higher camps.
  • We ask each member to bring their own imported daily snack and energy foods. We also ask members to bring 2 dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for their summit attempt. We do not provide cold “snack” food such as chocolate or "energy-bars". We ask that you bring or buy your own "snack" or daily cold energy food, 2-4 kilos/4-8 pounds, is a good amount. A growing variety of imported foods such as European and American cheeses, chocolates, biscuits, cookies, nuts, and locally made power-bars are now available in Kathmandu, at realistic prices. However, imported power bars, GU, re-hydration drinks, dehydrated food, "freeze-dried meals", imported cheese and sausage are not available. If you want these items, you must bring them from your home country.Many of our members, especially Britons, Europeans, and Australians with tiny baggage allowances, now purchase their daily snacks in Kathmandu. Our schedule in Kathmandu allows plenty of time for shopping.

Practical- back to top

    • 1 small roll of repair tape, 1 sewing repair kit;
    • 1 cigarette lighter, 1 small box matches;
    • 1 compass or GPS;
    • 1 battery powered alarm clock/watch;
    • 1 camera and film, or digital camera with extra cards and extra batteries;
    • nylon stuff sacks For food and gear storage, large Ziplocs are useful also;
    • 3 water bottles (1 litre) wide-mouth Nalgene (1 is a pee bottle);
    • 1 plastic cup and spoon;
    • 1 small folding knife;
    • binoculars (optional);
    • 4 large, waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks;
    • passport, 2 extra passport photos, flight ticket, flight itinerary;
    • separate photocopies of passport and relevant visa pages, proof of insurance;
    • dollars, pounds or euros cash for purchasing Nepalese visa at Kathmandu airport, Tibet visa, for paying for restaurants and hotels, for gratuities, snacks, and to purchase your own drinks and gifts;
    • credit cards, Bank/ATM/Cash machine cards for use for withdrawing funds from cash machines (bring a photocopy of your cards), traveler's checks, etc.;
    • 1 bathing suit/swimming costume (you never know);
    • basecamp entertainment. It is good to bring additional items which you have found to be useful on previous expeditions. For example: paperback books, playing cards, ipod mp3 player, short-wave radio, game boys, musical instruments, ear plugs, lots of batteries, etc.;
    • travel clothes for basecamp and in town;
Please be sure and bring your patience and try to keep an open, relaxed, positive and friendly attitude as travelling in this part of the world may be very different than what you are used to, but things always seem to fall into place at the last moment. Thank you.


This is not an exhaustive list. Please submit other equipment concerns and suggestions. Thank you.
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Group Equipment:

We provide a plethora of top-quality, and time-tested equipment, group gear, and supplies, including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection; basecamp, advanced basecamp and altitude tents; cookers, fuel, high-altitude food, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. We now provide an individual tent for each member in basecamp, so you do not have to share. We also have a shower and toilet tent for Basecamp. Please see the group EQUIPMENT link, in the menu bars above to study what we bring for your use and safety.

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Please submit any equipment questions or concerns to: info@summitclimb.com

Lhakpa Ri/North Col Climbing Expedition Questions Section

Lhakpa Ri/North Col Expedition Climbing Video Movie Clips

Below are some short video clips taken from our recent Mount Everest North Col / Lhakpa Ri climbing expedition. Please click the picture or title in the left column to view each clip. In the right column is the description for each video.
 

Climbing North Col

In between advanced basecamp and the North Col of Mt. Everest (Ken Stalter). 0:20 seconds (3 MB).

Nortch Col

Scenes of advanced basecamp and climbers trekking up to and climbing the North Col (Fredrik Strang). 1:15 minutes (10 MB).

ABC trek

Scenes of the team and yaks trekking from base camp to advanced basecamp (Ken Stalter). 0:20 seconds (3 MB).

Everest from ABC

Mount Everest seen from advanced basecamp with prayer flags waving in the strong winds (Ken Stalter). 0:40 seconds (6 MB).

Drive to BC

A scene from our fun and adventurous drive from Kathmandu to basecamp (Ken Stalter). 0:40 seconds (6 MB).

Kathmandu

A view of the bustling, scenic entry city for our Everest Tibet expedition, Kathmandu (Ken Stalter). 2:30 minutes (21 MB).

Puja

Our team participating in a traditional puja ceremony with a Buddhist lama near the Rongbuk Monastery at the start of our expedition (Ken Stalter). 0:10 seconds (2 MB).

Yaks

Our sturdy yaks carrying all of our personal and team equipment between basecamp and advanced basecamp so you don't have to (Ken Stalter). 0:15 seconds (2 MB).
 

If you wish to purchase our mountain climbing and trekking films, please contact Videoland Productions.

You can can go to their site www.videolandproductions.com and email info@videolandproductions.com or call (+1)360-491-1332 to buy any and all of the mountain climbing and trekking films we have. Please tell them we said hi!

We will be expanding this section with more Lhakpa Ri/North Col video clips.

Lhakpa Ri/North Col Climbing News & Expedition Dispatches - Stories

Archive news: Please Click here

Thank you for reading about our past Lhakpa Ri/North Col Expeditions. To follow along with our ongoing trips around the world, please view our "Recent News" section.

Lhakpa Ri/North Col Climb - International Members Application

What questions do you have? Please ask as many questions as possible. This helps us to have a proper conversation so we can better understand one-another's expectations, so you will have a very safe, enjoyable, and succesful expedition. Thank you. Before completing the application forms, please be sure to carefully study the Lhakpa Ri/North Col "Questions" website for information regarding flights, payment, team members, application forms, insurance, etcetera: Lhakpa Ri/North Col Frequently Asked Questions .

Below you should find a pdf or MS document containing the application pro forma. Are you able to read it? When all of your questions have been answered to your satisfaction, please print out the application and return it to us with your refundable ten-percent deposit, to hold your place in our team. Would you please just post it to us at the mailing address you will find on the form? Thank you very much. If you decide not to go, your deposit will be refunded according to our refund policy. Your registration and the final payment must be completed two months prior to the expedition starting date. Thank you very much.

Click here to download the PDF Form for International Applicants

Here is a checklist of what we need to have in your file at least two months before the trip begins. We encourage you to send an electronic scan of all of the below documents, please be sure they are signed. Thank you:

[ ] Completed Payment,
[ ] Trip Registration Form (part of 4 page form),
[ ] Signed Participant Release and Acknowledgement of Risk (part of 4 page form),
[ ] Signed Terms and Conditions of Booking (part of 4 page form),
[ ] Signed Medical Form (part of 4 page form),
[ ] 1 Passport sized photo, which is a simple, very clear picture of your face, sent as an email scan. (We simply require a picture of your face against a white background. You can take it yourself for free with your own digital camera or smart phone),
[ ] Exact photocopy of passport identification pages,
[ ] Exact photocopy of complete flight itinerary,
[ ] Proof of mountain rescue and repatriation insurance,
[ ] Proof of travel, accident, and repatriation insurance (cancellation and trip interruption insurance is advised).
[ ] Doctors letter


Please do let us know what further questions you may have about the registration process, or anything else for that matter. Thank you.
Welcome to our team.

Lhakpa Ri North Col Expedition Climb - US Members Application

What questions do you have? Please ask as many questions as possible. This helps us to have a proper conversation so we can better understand one-another's expectations, so you will have a very safe, enjoyable, and successful expedition. Thank you. Before completing the application forms, please be sure to carefully study the Lhakpa Ri/North Col "Questions" website for information regarding flights, payment, team members, application forms, insurance, etcetera:

Lhakpa Ri/North Col Frequently Asked Questions.

Below you should find a pdf or MS document containing the application pro forma. Are you able to read it? When all of your questions have been answered to your satisfaction, please print out the application and return it to us with your refundable ten-percent deposit, to hold your place in our team. Would you please just post it to us at the mailing address you will find on the form? Thank you very much. If you decide not to go, your deposit will be refunded according to our refund policy. Your registration and the final payment must be completed two months prior to the expedition starting date. Thank you very much.

Click here to download the PDF Form for US Applicants

 
 

If you do not have an Adobe PDF reader, please obtain it here

Here is a checklist of what we need to have in your file at least two months before the trip begins. We encourage you to send an electronic scan of all of the below documents, please be sure they are signed. Thank you:

[ ] Completed Payment,
[ ] Trip Registration Form (part of 4 page form),
[ ] Signed Participant Release and Acknowledgement of Risk (part of 4 page form),
[ ] Signed Terms and Conditions of Booking (part of 4 page form),
[ ] Signed Medical Form (part of 4 page form),
[ ] 1 Passport sized photo, which is a simple, very clear picture of your face, sent as an email scan. (We simply require a picture of your face against a white background. You can take it yourself for free with your own digital camera or smart phone),
[ ] Exact photocopy of passport identification pages,
[ ] Exact photocopy of complete flight itinerary,
[ ] Proof of mountain rescue and repatriation insurance,
[ ] Proof of travel, accident, and repatriation insurance (cancellation and trip interruption insurance is advised).
[ ] Doctors letter

Please do let us know what further questions you may have about the registration process, or anything else for that matter. Thank you.

Welcome to our team.

What our clients say?

  • Here is what Troy says:

    "First of all thanks for everything. I appreciate everything you did to make this a safe and successful expedition."

  • Here is what Bruce says:

    "I thought the expedition worked well and it was another good group of people you put together. I look forward to climbing together again and seeing you next time."

  • Here is what Steven Says

    I just wanted to say thanks to all of the SummitClimb team for a great trip, as you know things were up and down and changing almost every day and in some cases every hour.

    The SummitClimb leader did a great job with me and the clients he has, I realise the rest of the group are still on Everest or Cho I am back home now and just wanted to say Thanks for all your help.
    Can you please pass on my best regards to everyone.