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AMA DABLAM

sometimes spelled: Ama Dablan, or Amadablam, or Amadablan.

We welcome you to visit our new Ama Dablam website. There is more thorough information about the trip, slideshows, photo galleries, video clips and much more. Thank you.


new site

The route, and our team of climbers and Sherpas on top. You can see Nuptse, Everest, and Lhotse in the background. A perfect day. Photos: D.L. Mazur and Chris Kinny. Paul from Southampton on the summit, October 2005 (Rick Coleman). Please scroll down for more photos.

ASIA'S MOST FAMOUS TECHNICAL BUT CLIMBABLE ROCK-ICE-SNOW CLIMB.

1 October to 1 November. 32 days in Nepal in 2008, 2009, and 2010.

Now accepting applications for our 2008 and 2009 climbs.

October 2006: 8 members and 6 Sherpas from 5 nations reached the summit in all safety.

For more about our recently returrned Ama Dablam expedition, please check the news:

Lorenz Eugster from Bern jumaring Sterling rope that we just fixed above the red tower (Dan Mazur). Climbers approaching the grey tower at 6050 metres, October 2005. The route follows the right-hand snow ramp. Rick Coleman from Vancouver, British Columbia took this photo, and he says: "The guys identified as "climbers on the Grey Tower" are actually Doug Sandok (our 2005 Leader - In - Training from Colorado and Wisconsin) first with the red pants, and Mor Doron from Israel next". Samuli Mansikka and Tuomas Sovijarvi, both from Finland, on the summit in 2005. Thats Everest and Lhotse through the clouds behind.

Climbing Ama Dablam could qualify you for Cho Oyu, Lhotse, or Everest. Please see our Cho Oyu, Lhotse, or Everest link for more information. Thank you.

$4950, £2550, €3150; Basic Climb Cost: $1450, £750, €950.

When you see the high level of service we provide, as well as low budget options, you may agree that the cost is affordable, inexpensive, even cheap.

Climb Asia's Most Famous Easy Semi-Technical Rock, Ice, and Snow Peak.

Our last Ama Dablam expedition was safe and successful. For news of our recent climb, please "click" the "news" button.

Leader: Dan Mazur, Ama Dablam 5 time summiter, climber-leader-organizer of Everest, K2, and 12 "eight-thousand-metre-peaks".

Interested? Please contact us: info@SummitClimb.com

John Nicholson from Detroit abseiling in the Yellow Tower at 6000 metres by Rick Coleman from British Columbia. Sherpa Tenzing (4 summits of Ama Dablam, 3 of Pumori and and 2 of Everest all with SummitClimb) hauling a rucksack for one of our members in the Yellow Tower. Mushroom ridge 6250 metres, climbers and rucksack being hauled by our Sherpa team (photos Samuli Mansikka).

* Our “full-service" expedition includes:

1.	Leader: Dan Mazur, Ama Dablam 5 time summiter, climber-leader-organizer of Everest, K2, and 12 "eight-thousand-metre-peaks".
2.	Climbing Sherpas for the group;
3.	Transport to basecamp to/from Kathmandu (including round trip domestic flights), for you and equipment, including camping and meals on trek;
4.	Yak transport of all equipment from Lukla to and from basecamp;
5.	Three hot meals per day on trek, in basecamp and advanced basecamp. Comfortable tables and chairs and dining tent in basecamp;
6.	Skillful basecamp and advanced basecamp cooks;
7.	All mountain, basecamp and advanced basecamp food;
8.	All permit fees and liaison officers;
9.	Use of group gear and supplies: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection; basecamp and altitude tents; cookers, fuel, high-altitude food, walkie-talkie radios, satellite telephone, etcetera;
10.	Emergency equipment and supplies: medical oxygen, gamow bag, basecamp medical kit, high-altitude medical kits, etcetera;
11.	In addition to our top-quality high-altitude tents, we now provide an individual tent (1 tent per person) in basecamp.

* Our "basic climb" includes:

1.	Coordinator: Daniel Mazur, Ama Dablam 4 time summiter, climber-leader-organizer of Everest, K2, and 12 "eight-thousand-metre-peaks", together with Jay Reilly, two time Ama Dablam and two time Pumori summiter;
2.	All permit fees and liaison officers;
3.	Emergency equipment and supplies: medical oxygen, gamow bag, basecamp medical kit, high-altitude medical kits, etcetera;
4.	Access to team fixed ropes and camps (sites, not tents), coordinated with our own "full-service" climbing team.
5.	Other necessary services and supplies (ie: trek services, basecamp meals, high altitude services and equipment), may be purchased and hired at minimal expense. We offer basic climb "packages" as noted below, or, we can furnish individual items such as tents, stoves, gas, food, etcetera.

Add the following services to the basic climb:

TREKKING TO/FROM BASECAMP: porters, staff, meals, camping, and round trip flight ktm - lukla, $1350, £650, €950.

BASECAMP kitchen, cooks, meals, sleeping tents, dining tent, tables and chairs, $1350, £650, €950.

HIGH ALTITUDE leaders, sherpas, tents, ropes, radios, stoves, fuel, food, etcetera, $1350, £650, €950.

Leadership: During this full-service expedition, you will benefit from the leadership provided by Dan Mazur, 4 time summiter of Ama Dablam, climber-leader-organizer of Everest, K2, and 12 "eight-thousand-metre-peaks". He is a relaxed, friendly and well organized person, and a highly-skilled professional with 25 years experience in getting people to the summit and back down with the highest attention to safety. For more about Dan, please "click" on the Leadership link above.

Dan Mazur from Seattle and Bristol with Kirsti Sampson from London in 4500 metre-high basecamp after a dusting of snow (Chris Kinny).

Trekking: For our full-service members, the cost of this expedition includes one of the most beautiful treks in the world. For more information and photos, please visit our Ama Dablam trek site: Ama Dablam Trek.

Rex hanging out at the Ama Dablam lodge in Pheriche. Its possible to see musk deer around this lodge. A bridge across the beautiful Dudh Khosi river inside the Mount Everest National Park (Rudy Zuber)

Sherpas and Equipment Transport: Our expedition includes transport of all of your equipment from Kathmandu to basecamp, and returned to Kathmandu. While climbing on the mountain, we DO NOT ask our full-service members to carry heavy group equipment (although it is an option if you really want to), such as tents, rope, fuel, food, etcetera. We employ climbing sherpas, and high-altitude porters, to carry group equipment and supplies. For a minimal expense, we can also provide personal sherpas, and climbing-guides, to individual members who wish to have their own private sherpa or personal climbing-guide. We now encourage members who need a little extra help with the weight to hire a "quarter of a sherpa".

Training: Upon arrival in Kathmandu and base camp, ALL full-service and basic-climb members are required to participate in one to two days of training in the areas of climbing techniques, glacier travel, rope fixing, ascending, descending, safety techniques, rappels (abseils), belaying, medical equipment and procedures, communications equipment, camping techniques and high-altitude cooking. For the expert and beginner alike, it is important to review these techniques in order to enhance skills, ensure safety-awareness, and work together as a team.

Jay Reilly, our leader, demonstrating the use of the Gamow Bag during a medical training session in basecamp. He is showing us how you can put an altimetre watch into the window of the bag, so that you can witness how the altitude drops inside the bag as you pump it up (Wu Guan Jang).

Safety: BOTH full-service and basic expeditions are allowed access to our extensive medical supplies, first-aid kits, medical oxygen, and a gamow bag in case of emergency. Thank you for being a well-prepared and safe team member!

Communications: During our expedition, we regularly update several websites, such as EverestNews.com with the progress of our expedition and our team members. In this way, your loved ones and friends, colleagues, and sponsors can stay tuned to how you are progressing on your way up to and back down from the summit. Our expedition is equipped with one "walkie-talkie" radio for each member, and a satellite telephone for international voice telephone calls and emails. Members wishing to use the telephone will contribute $4 per minute of use.

We use static lines supplied by Sterling Rope. Here is Rudy from Zermatt in the Red Tower at 5850 metres (Jay Ullin). Each year we fix over 1000 metres of top quality static line (Chris Kinny). Thanks to Sterling Rope.

Group Equipment: We provide a plethora of well-used, top-quality, and time-tested equipment, group gear, and supplies, including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection; basecamp, advanced basecamp and altitude tents; cookers, fuel, high-altitude food, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. We now provide an individual tent for each member in basecamp, so you do not have to share. Please see the above EQUIPMENT link, to study what we bring for your use and safety.

Cooks and Food: On trek, our top notch cooks provide three very tasty meals each day. In base camp, advanced base camp, and Camp 1, our skillful and hard working cooks prepare three hot meals each day with a very healthy diet of fresh vegetables, cheeses, eggs, and fresh as well as tinned fruits, meats and fish (all meats and fish are prepared separately out of respect for the vegetarians in our midst). They supply you with unlimited hot-drinks, the key to successful acclimatization. We have large weather-proof kitchens and dining tents, with comfortable chairs and tables. On the mountain, we provide you with abundant and nutritious locally available quick-cooking food, so that you may prepare at least three meals and lots of hot drinks each day, in our specially designed high-altitude stoves using our butane-propane expedition mix fuel.

Yaks unloading at our basecamp on the grassy Ama Dablam plateau at 4650 metres beneath Tawache in the background. In the mess tent in basecamp, where we offered three well-prepared hearty meals each day, along with unlimited hot drinks, by our trained cooks. This photo of ABC at 5350 metres was taken at night. We have a cook and kitchen at ABC, enabling our members to acclimate properly, making sure to stay properly hydrated, and well fed, even while high on the mountain (photos by Wu Guan Jang from Taiwan).

Personal Equipment: Plastic double climbing boots are required, as are good quality leather walking boots (most people climb the rock to camp 2 in leather boots, and then switch to plastic boots for the ice and snow on the upper mountain). You will need to bring your own personal equipment, including rucksack, ice-axe, crampons, harness, helmet, plastic mountaineering boots, good quality leather boots, down/duvet jacket, wind/waterproof clothing, sleeping bag/mat, etcetera. You will need to bring your own daily snacks ( a wide selection of snacks are readily available in Kathmandu). In addition, we ask you to bring 2 of your favorite high-altitude freeze-dried dinners for yourself. Please see the above EQUIPMENT link, to study what is needed.

Steve from Seattle, Mel from Cirencester, and Elselien from Holland having tea in front of the mess tent, taking a break from preparing the team equipment. You can see their 60 litre alpine rucksacks (Liz Stevens).

Team Member Experience: Our leaders, Daniel Mazur, and Jay Reilly and our team-climbing-sherpas, are there to ensure (for our full-service members) you make it up to the summit and down safely. However, this is not a guided expedition (although you could hire your own personal guide, sherpas, etcetera), and team members are expected to be able to care for themselves in a winter-camping and climbing environment. Obviously, when climbing the most famous semi-technical rock-ice-snow peak in all Asia, there are hazards present, and members must have experience in roped rock and ice climbing techniques (to protect from falling down the mountain), and have rock climbing experience. It is also required that all members will have an awareness of altitude sickness, frostbite, and the recognition of their symptoms, prevention, and treatment. Once traveling above camp 1, all members must be prepared to be tied into the fixed lines at all times. Neither solo climbing, nor descending, are allowed above camp 1. Additionally, and perhaps most importantly, members need to join with a spirit of friendship, teamwork and cooperation, and be ready to work with the group and be a good "team-player".

Fitness and Health: To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active walker-climber in good health. Prior to joining our group, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in extremes of altitude, and also for exotic locales. Note: You can purchase all necessary medicines inexpensively with no doctor's prescription in Kathmandu. Please make sure you have physically trained yourself very thoroughly before joining this climb of Asia's most famous semi-technical rock-ice-snow climb.

Safety statement: Climbing and trekking are dangerous. You could become injured, ill, disabled, or even die. A peak may be referred to as "easy", "moderate", "climbable", "semi-technical", "accessible", etcetera, but intensive training, preparation, skill development, and experience are necessary before tackling one of these giants. If you are unsure about what is involved, and wish to hone and develop mountain skills, we encourage you to attend our GLACIER SCHOOL.

INTRODUCTION: Our expedition offers an opportunity to climb this challenging semi-technical rock-ice-snow climb with an experienced team, at an affordable price. We have organized five previous expeditions to Ama Dablam, so our leaders and staff are very familiar with the climb.

For our full-service members, the cost of this expedition includes one of the most beautiful treks in the world. For more information and photos, please visit our Ama Dablam trek site: Ama Dablam Trek.

Ama Dablam from 4500 metre high basecamp (Rudy Zuber from Bern).

SOME FACTS ABOUT AMA DABLAM:

Ama Dablam is in the Khumbu valley, near to Mt. Everest, in the heart of the Sherpa area of Nepal, and is considered by many to be the most famous rock-ice-snow climb in all Asia. The name Ama Dablam means Mother’s Charm Box: the high hanging serac located just below the summit resembling the Dablam or Charm Box which unmarried Sherpa women used to wear around their necks. The first ascent of the mountain was by Ed Hillary's Silver Hut expedition in 1961 when Bishop (USA), Gill, Romanes (NZ) and Ward (UK) reached the summit, via the SW ridge, on 13 March after 20 days working on the route. Since then the mountain has received more than 500 ascents (not including Sherpas) mostly via the SW ridge.

WHY THE SOUTH WEST RIDGE

Here is what one of our previous top climb leaders (Jonathan Pratt, from Essex, England) had to say about the route:

“The easiest way to the top of Ama Dablam is via the SW ridge, a semi-technical route, and considered to be the standard route. Although there are several other routes on the mountain, they are all very much harder than the SW ridge. The route has been considered to be a safe route, free from objective danger, such as avalanche. It is a varied and interesting route with loads of superb climbing - not just a huge snow slog, unlike other Himalayan climbs. On Ama Dablam, the rock and ice is not sustained but tends to come in short manageable sections.”

NOTE: Please don’t underestimate this climb. Although there is only one 6 metre, 20 foot section of grade French 4, British severe, or North America 5.5, (the rest of the climb is known as "scrambling" or "4th class") there are complicating factors which you may not find at home on your local crag and definitely not in the rock-gym. These may include: ice, snow, high-altitude, temperature, weather, exposure, and other factors. Thank you for considering this climb carefully.

Two friends from DAV Summit Club on a granite step we traverse just before climbing into the couloir on the grey tower (Tom Lannamann from Connecticut and London).

THE CLIMB

We will place several camps on the mountain, allowing us to acclimate a little bit at a time. Basecamp is located at 4650 metres on a gorgeous grassy plateau, where many types of birds are abundant, and stunning views of the neighboring peaks and Ama Dablam abound. We walk in our leather boots on grass and dirt to advanced base at 5500 metres, where we have located one of our skillful cooks in recent years. We walk over large boulders, again in our leather boots, to Camp 1 at 5700 metres, where we have located another of our skillful cooks in recent years. Having these cooks at altitude is a real key to member's success, keeping everyone well fed and hydrated. The route to Camp 2 at 6000 metres is nearly all top-quality very solid easy granite rock scrambling with just 6 metres, 20 feet of French Class 4, British severe, North American 5.5 class easy rock. Most members do this part of the climb in their leather boots. Above camp 2, we put on plastic boots and crampons, and as we get higher we encounter more easy snow, ice, and mixed sections, until we reach 6300 metres, camp 3, a beautiful flat snow field with stunning views of Everest, Nuptse, Cho Oyu, Pumori, Shishapangma, etcetera. Summit day is on very easy (but steep at times) 20-50 degree snow. We will fix rope throughout the climb for safety.

Dan to ABC, Ama Dablam in background. Photographer: Tom Proctor from Indiana. Our nightly radio call on the South West Ridge. Photographer: Robert Chang from California.

ROUTE DESCRIPTION

Base Camp (4650 metres) to Advanced Basecamp (5500m). Ama Dablam is one of the few Himalayan peaks that can be reached without crossing a glacier. We climb a long gravel ridge-slope, and cross a boulder field on the SW ridge where we will place advanced basecamp. There is water here in early October. We have located one of our skillful cooks here in recent years.

Our advanced basecamp at 5500 metres. We have a cook here who prepares hot drinks and food to keep us healthy (Chris Kinny from Australia).

Advanced Basecamp to Camp 1 (5700 metres). We scramble over large boulders and climb an easy fourth class slab, where we fix a "hand-line". In 2003, we established two kitchens, complete with Nepalese cooks, in both ABC and Camp 1.

Camp 1 at 5700 metres. A beautiful spot to watch the sun go down on Kangtega (Chris Kinny).

Camp 1 to Camp 2 (6000m). We scramble-climb along an easy fourth class horizontal rock ridge and around several pinnacles, gaining only 300m vertical. The exposure is huge, with especially massive drop-offs on both sides of the ridge. The climbing is very enjoyable with a good quality of granite. At the end of the horizontal ridge we climb the Yellow Tower with 6 metres, 20 feet of French 4th class, British Severe, North American 5.5, above which we place Camp 2 on ledges and a flat-topped rock pinnacle. Camp 2 is probably the most "airy" site you will ever pitch a tent on. Please be very careful when you go to the toilet.

Climbers in the Yellow Tower at 5950 metres, the hardest climbing on the route, with one tricky move. We double all fixed lines here for safety (Wu Guan Jang). Brewing up in camp 2 at 6000 metres (Chris Kinny). Camp 2 sits atop this pinnacle at 6000 metres (Chris Kinny). Climbing out of camp 2 at 6000 metres from the base of the grey tower. Kantega in the background (Tom Lannamann).

Camp 2 to Camp 3 (6280 m). A steep snow ridge is climbed through the Grey Tower, with one move of French Class 4, British Severe, or 5.5, then multiple fourth class-scrambling pitches in snow, rock and ice chute are climbed to regain the ridge traverse the "mushroom-snow-ridge", a very bizarre but fairly stable formation. This is followed to the right side of the base of the Dablam where camp 3 is made on a broad flat snowfield. Camp 3 is traditional snow-camping.

Duane Morrison climbing up the Grey Couloir, if you look very closely, you can see Rackl Lake approximately 1000 metres below. We fix only the best ropes on these exposed sections (Chris Kinny). Looking down onto the Mushroom Ridge and across at Kusum Kanguru and Kantega. Note the climber on the ridge. A close up look at tthe infamous Mushroom Ridge at 6150 metres (Chris Kinny).

Looking up at camp 3 (6300m), with the Dablam above. Its hard to tell but the wind is blowing hard in this photo. See the climbers descending to the right of the Dablam. Photo was taken after summitting upon return to camp 3 (Jay Ullin). Jay Ullin waving from camp 3 at 6300 metres. Thats Taweche behind him. Ozark tents are strong in this windy camp (Duane Morrison).

Camp 3 to Summit (6812m). Two easy pitches of dramatic but very solid 40+ degree snow-ice are climbed to the side of the Dablam to reach the fluted but very easy and solid 30-48 degree snowfields that lead to one of the worlds finest summits, where you will be treated to incredibly stunning views of the south Face of Lhotse, Nuptse, Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Pumori, Shishapangma, Makalu, and the Khumbu Himal.

We were fortunate to be able to assist in the first ascent by a Nepalese woman, and putting the youngest woman on the summit. Maya Sherpa and Camille Kinny on the summit, with Everest on the right. A beautiful day, if a little windy. When we got back to Kathmandu the reporters were at the hotel and the story was printed in the paper (Chris Kinny). Jangbu and Shera Sherpa descending safely in the yellow tower on doubled extra thick lines. A safe trip down is the most important part of the climb (Wu Guan Jang).

THE SCHEDULE:

1. Arrive Kathmandu (1300m), Nepal.

2. Explore Kathmandu, finalize arrangements.

3. Fly to Lukla (2900m), walk to Phakding (2550m), sleep in tea house or camp.....2-3 hrs.

4. Walk to Namche Bazaar (3440m), sleep in tea house or camp....4-7 hrs.

5. Rest in Namche, sleep in tea house or camp.

6. Walk to Pangboche (3860m), sleep in tea house or camp........4-7 hrs

7. Walk to Base Camp (4650 metres)...…. 3-5 hrs

8. Rest and Training day in Basecamp, review climbing techniques, medical, etcetera.

9. Walk to Advanced Basecamp (5350 metres), return and sleep in basecamp.

10. Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep in advanced basecamp.

11. Explore route to camp 1 (5700 metres), return and sleep in basecamp.